Another great video sir. I'm surprised there is Not a simple adjustable strap (for bouncing cars) attached to the Dyno unit. I would think that would help with more consistent, accurate & reliable results. Just a thought... Keep the fun videos coming!!
A good follow up video would be if you can get the NC-2 up to speed with the Bulldog, what it took to get there? Like with the original mega g, the motor mags seem to have little assistance in traction? On the traction end, guess one could test a traction magnet on a regular car on the down force meter, then cover it with a thin place of plastic and remeasure it to see if drilling an traction magnet access hole would be of any advantage on the NC-2? I would think the largest round drill bit hole that keeps the bit in the magnet chamber would be a good start, since it would leave corners for the magnets to stay in place? Guess someone could further trim some of that way to if their was any advantage in doing so? Anyway, you have the cars on hand and know more about that than I. I was hoping the NC-2 would have done better than it did, I was thinking of purchases some of these for my Tyco bodies I have. Thank you once again for all your hard work and testing!
I was actually thinking the same thing about the magnets being covered and if there was a cut out would it have better down force. I may just try and do that. I also will follow up on the NC-2 after I have broken it is a little more and see if it improves on the dyno. It's still a pretty good runner, with a little more down force it would be even better. Will keep you posted.
Hi Mark, that's a nice Dyno, it will help a lot when working on cars awesome. Thanks for the comparison and great video 👍🏁👍. One of these days I would like to get one. Have a good week. Al
MSCG..Cool Road Runner and Javalin ,Oh'oooo I guess I should talk about the video,liked the both track touch. Can you remove/cut out the plastic bottom covering the Jag's Hobbies traction and motor magnets without them falling out? What's the M and T on your down force meter mean? Only test on Monday and Thursday,ha😎
Thanks! I thought about that as well, if the magnets would preform better if there was an opening. I will have to check on that. The M changes the unit of measure on the meter and the T zero's it out if needed.
Looks like my comment disappeared, maybe it's because I pasted a web link? Anyway, Great Job on the comparison of the NC-2, NC-2GT and the BDR SRT! It's the best video on list subject that I've seen on the web my friend! I noticed on Jag Hobbies site under troubleshooting, it mentioned that if the back bottom of the shoes is too low, it can cause the hanger part of the shoe to lift and not to make contact with the brush barrel very good. It also surprised me that the dyno didn't show much difference between the NC-2GT and the SRT, since one had 3.5-ohm arm and near double the gauss of the motor magnets. So, what was the track times on the NC-2GT as compared to the SRT on the Viper Track? Thank you once again for the best comparison video to date!
Thanks! Sorry I did not do any laps with the NC-2GT, I was trying to focus on just the 6 ohm cars. I can do some laps with it and report back to you. I agree for a 3.5 ohm are you would think it would have a faster time on the Dyno. I think both the 6 and 3.5 ohm chassis had lower than expected times on the Dyno. I will also take a look at the pickup shoes where they meet the brush barrels and make sure they have good contact.
The Jag motors do seem to run slower than expected compared to other similar ohm cars on the Dyno. The 3.5 ohm Jag clocks in at around what most of my other 6 ohm cars measure, in the mid 3 range. As a comparison my 3 ohm Viper clock in at 4.4 on the Dyno. As for the lap times on the NC-2 regular vs the GT there is almost a second difference in lap times. I was doing in the mid fours on the 6 ohm Jag and on the GT version I was in the mid three second range. Also the rear tires on the normal Jag NC-2 are crap, they were why it was bouncing around so much, I put a better pair of silicone tires on and it was much better. The rear tires on the Jag NC-2 are more like the rubber stock tires on a Mega G plus.
Thanks Mark I guess the AW bodies I have are mostly a different wheel base than the viper chassis too Thanks for your help I may have questions in the future
@@RicksReddirtslots Most front axles don't require a tool, you should be able to pull the hub off and move it to the other front axle hole to change the wheel base.
They are very close. Both pulled around 65 on the down force meter with stock magnets. The Jag had better times on the Dyno, 260 v 220 and they had similar lap times on my viper track in the low 4 second range. I would say the Mega G seemed to handle a little better and had fewer de-slots than the Jag but they are very similar.
BSRT use to make C4 traction magnets, now we only have a choice between stock or Level 8’s for the tyco. Have you tried new HCS Level 4 motor with stock traction compared to Jag nc2? Guess I’m trying to come up with a fair Tyco car in a box stock class, lol 😂
New HCS level 4 motor magnets for Tyco 440x2? I have used Pro 4 Tyco motor magnets if that is what you mean but not with stock traction magnets. I run most of my 440x2 with Pro 4 motor and Pro 8 traction and a 3.5 ohm arm.
Stock the Jag is better.Iit has more down force, 70 to 50 for the stock Tyco, the stronger down force lets the Jag handle better and produce better lap times. Once you upgrade the 440x2 traction magnets though say to Pro8 magnets then the Tyco is better.
Yes, the base 6 ohm arm version of both the Bulldog and the Jag NC-2 should run fine on a stock AFX power supply. The 3.5 ohm GT version if you are running two of them you may not be giving them all the power they need but they will still run.
Interesting. Yes, my )AG was slower and stiffer when new. That difference may decrease slightly with time. So, the conclusion is the numbers are the numbers and they dont lie? And some vibration and hippity hop is tolerable? Although no doubt stronger magnets mask the hip hop on the track. IE Auto World.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Great comparison and shootout on those chassis!!!!! Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks!
Mark Interesting video I enjoyed just Going through some of your older videos picking up some pointers here And there.
Thanks! I appreciate that.
Another great video sir. I'm surprised there is Not a simple adjustable strap (for bouncing cars) attached to the Dyno unit. I would think that would help with more consistent, accurate & reliable results. Just a thought... Keep the fun videos coming!!
Thanks Lonnie, fortunately not too many cars bounce bad enough to come off. I just lightly hold on to the ones that bounce.
Good, practical information again. Great video!
Thanks Jeff!
A good follow up video would be if you can get the NC-2 up to speed with the Bulldog, what it took to get there? Like with the original mega g, the motor mags seem to have little assistance in traction? On the traction end, guess one could test a traction magnet on a regular car on the down force meter, then cover it with a thin place of plastic and remeasure it to see if drilling an traction magnet access hole would be of any advantage on the NC-2? I would think the largest round drill bit hole that keeps the bit in the magnet chamber would be a good start, since it would leave corners for the magnets to stay in place? Guess someone could further trim some of that way to if their was any advantage in doing so? Anyway, you have the cars on hand and know more about that than I. I was hoping the NC-2 would have done better than it did, I was thinking of purchases some of these for my Tyco bodies I have. Thank you once again for all your hard work and testing!
I was actually thinking the same thing about the magnets being covered and if there was a cut out would it have better down force. I may just try and do that. I also will follow up on the NC-2 after I have broken it is a little more and see if it improves on the dyno. It's still a pretty good runner, with a little more down force it would be even better. Will keep you posted.
Hi Mark, that's a nice Dyno, it will help a lot when working on cars awesome. Thanks for the comparison and great video 👍🏁👍. One of these days I would like to get one. Have a good week. Al
Thanks Al!
MSCG..Cool Road Runner and Javalin ,Oh'oooo I guess I should talk about the video,liked the both track touch. Can you remove/cut out the plastic bottom covering the Jag's Hobbies traction and motor magnets without them falling out? What's the M and T on your down force meter mean? Only test on Monday and Thursday,ha😎
Thanks! I thought about that as well, if the magnets would preform better if there was an opening. I will have to check on that. The M changes the unit of measure on the meter and the T zero's it out if needed.
Home Run, Great video!
Thanks Thomas!
Thank you for the update on the NC-2 and NC-2GT:) Great stuff!!!
Any time, thanks!
The G2 is awesome just received one . Best chassis out there for the money ! And the Nc2 is awesome to
Thanks Tom! They are a good chassis for the money.
Looks like my comment disappeared, maybe it's because I pasted a web link? Anyway, Great Job on the comparison of the NC-2, NC-2GT and the BDR SRT! It's the best video on list subject that I've seen on the web my friend! I noticed on Jag Hobbies site under troubleshooting, it mentioned that if the back bottom of the shoes is too low, it can cause the hanger part of the shoe to lift and not to make contact with the brush barrel very good. It also surprised me that the dyno didn't show much difference between the NC-2GT and the SRT, since one had 3.5-ohm arm and near double the gauss of the motor magnets. So, what was the track times on the NC-2GT as compared to the SRT on the Viper Track?
Thank you once again for the best comparison video to date!
Thanks! Sorry I did not do any laps with the NC-2GT, I was trying to focus on just the 6 ohm cars. I can do some laps with it and report back to you. I agree for a 3.5 ohm are you would think it would have a faster time on the Dyno. I think both the 6 and 3.5 ohm chassis had lower than expected times on the Dyno. I will also take a look at the pickup shoes where they meet the brush barrels and make sure they have good contact.
The Jag motors do seem to run slower than expected compared to other similar ohm cars on the Dyno. The 3.5 ohm Jag clocks in at around what most of my other 6 ohm cars measure, in the mid 3 range. As a comparison my 3 ohm Viper clock in at 4.4 on the Dyno. As for the lap times on the NC-2 regular vs the GT there is almost a second difference in lap times. I was doing in the mid fours on the 6 ohm Jag and on the GT version I was in the mid three second range. Also the rear tires on the normal Jag NC-2 are crap, they were why it was bouncing around so much, I put a better pair of silicone tires on and it was much better. The rear tires on the Jag NC-2 are more like the rubber stock tires on a Mega G plus.
As always good demonstration and info
Mark what body clip do you use for viper vspec chassis to Auto World bodies
It's the standard AFX clip, the Auto World bodies are pretty much that same as AFX.
Thanks Mark
I guess the AW bodies I have are mostly a different wheel base than the viper chassis too
Thanks for your help I may have questions in the future
@@RicksReddirtslots on the Viper you can change the wheel base, the front tires can be moved to create a longer wheel base.
@@marksslotcargarage
Yes I just bought a press, puller and pinion tool from Jag
Still learning Thank yo
@@RicksReddirtslots Most front axles don't require a tool, you should be able to pull the hub off and move it to the other front axle hole to change the wheel base.
I love running the Super 7 cars and the Bulldogs with brass weights.
I had a buddy who brought over some Vipers with brass weights, they were fun to race. Took some getting used to..lol
Mark, question, how does the afx mega g compare to the NC 2 in down force and track time comparison? Thank you!
They are very close. Both pulled around 65 on the down force meter with stock magnets. The Jag had better times on the Dyno, 260 v 220 and they had similar lap times on my viper track in the low 4 second range. I would say the Mega G seemed to handle a little better and had fewer de-slots than the Jag but they are very similar.
BSRT use to make C4 traction magnets, now we only have a choice between stock or Level 8’s for the tyco. Have you tried new HCS Level 4 motor with stock traction compared to Jag nc2? Guess I’m trying to come up with a fair Tyco car in a box stock class, lol 😂
New HCS level 4 motor magnets for Tyco 440x2? I have used Pro 4 Tyco motor magnets if that is what you mean but not with stock traction magnets. I run most of my 440x2 with Pro 4 motor and Pro 8 traction and a 3.5 ohm arm.
@@marksslotcargarage yep, that is what I meant, guess I used BSRT terminology. Thank you Mark!
How does the Jag NC2 compare to tyco with stock magnets and C4 motor magnets in downforce and times?
Stock the Jag is better.Iit has more down force, 70 to 50 for the stock Tyco, the stronger down force lets the Jag handle better and produce better lap times. Once you upgrade the 440x2 traction magnets though say to Pro8 magnets then the Tyco is better.
Will a stock power supply for Afx tracks power those cars good with no issues?
Yes, the base 6 ohm arm version of both the Bulldog and the Jag NC-2 should run fine on a stock AFX power supply. The 3.5 ohm GT version if you are running two of them you may not be giving them all the power they need but they will still run.
10:41 I choose the GTR sitting off in the corner ;-) Love those bodies so much
Supra is second choice, tho!
Yeah I love the GT40's those are some of my favorites.
What size table is your afx track on?
The AFX track was on a 4x10 table.
For the price of the HCS Super 7. May as well, spend a little more and get a Viper V-spec.
I agree with you, Viper is the way to go for another 10 bucks.
what volts are you running ?
18.5 volts.
I Love Jag Hobbies but I've had Crapp luck with their chassis
Yeah I think the Jags are ok, I would rather spend a little extra on a Super 7.
Interesting. Yes, my )AG was slower and stiffer when new. That difference may decrease slightly with time. So, the conclusion is the numbers are the numbers and they dont lie? And some vibration and hippity hop is tolerable? Although no doubt stronger magnets mask the hip hop on the track. IE Auto World.
Yeah the numbers are the numbers, a higher score on the dyno translates to faster lap times which makes sense.
back in the day we could get 4 or 5 different gearings not so much now
You can actually change the gears but most cars come with 7/22, 7/23 or 7/25 not including dragster cars.
Dyno-Mite!
LOL, thanks Steve.
Knee o dim e um.
? lol