Flake! Dope video. Can you show me where the idle screw is? I’m having issues finding it. I can see the mixture screw but not the idle. Also what screws let you take the air box off the carb? Thanks man.
Have you checked out the video by Mazda Mitch? He goes way more in detail about the Weber carb and if I recall right points out all the screws you need to know. Check his video out
I don’t live in California so I don’t worry about smog but to answer your question, no you won’t pass with this. Also no ac needs to be removed for this
@ 6:33 that little plate/gasket spacer that heats up the carburetor, is it necessary at all if you live in a hot climates to start with? You see I have the stock carb but this is the second time that damn thing has failed on me. It’s about $65-$90 bucks every time for that damn spacer thing so I’m wondering now if I can just delete it altogether. Keep in mind I run the stock carburetor for emissions sake 🙄
If you are on a hot climate like we are in Texas, I don’t think it’s needed and you can most likely just delete it. We get really cold weather for maybe about a 3 weeks and the rest is pretty much summer. Just check for any leaks if you remove it and should be good
I don’t think so. Always check your state laws. We don’t live in California but I don’t think it’ll pass smog if you remove the factory carb so we wouldn’t recommend it
I might sound the fool for asking, but you said that many of those vacuum lines and canisters aren't useful any longer. Why aren't we going to keep those lines? Thanks!
No worries, so a lot of those lines were lines that hooked to the factory carburetor and well now have nowhere to plug into. They kept the whole system in check with itself. The Weber carb only needs the timing vacuum line and fuel lines to run. Your egr system is not needed which is that all those canisters and lines are
@@FlakeGarage thanks for replying so quickly! If you noticed your views go up over the weekend it's because I'm doing this exact product and I'm going to be watching this a lot lol
mine dont look like that aT ALL HERES A COMMENT I LEFT ON MY DUDES SATUFF COUPLE WEEKS AGO When I got my 1990 Mazda B 2200 it ran amazing then started stalling found a cap off and seen it was getting too much air, caped it, then it started stalling, I could drive it less and less farther then it start and stall wouldn't move, but when I look down in the carb I can see it spray gas in the carb, so I put it up for winter, just pulled carb and cleaned it all and everything put it back on and then it will only run with starting fluid so I went to locate the pump and boom I don't have this fuel pump nor is it in my tank it's on the left of my tank some lil side pump with its own line the old line is folded in half. no gas comes out at the carb when it's on but sprays out at the pump that's located on outside of gas tank where this fuel pump is I don't have anything but 2 gas lines that turn in to one into the carb it's just lines after outside pump idk if I have someone's Frankenstein project. if I take some videos and post them to my TH-cam and DM you, could you maybe tell me anything you, see? I will CashApp for any help possible, advice, issues brought up to aspect, if you might not no, again thank you thank you, if anyone has advice and wants to chime in and help a guy out!!!! Again, thank you if it actually helps I got no problem to shoot a CashApp, or PayPal, or anything along those lines' thanks again guy (Yours Truly Guy With A BROKEN Mazda)
It sounds like you might have had an in tank fuel pump if yours isn't on the side of the engine. They might have ghetto rigged something outside if the in tank pump failed. I'd recommend swapping over to a mechanical pump on the side like on my video. MazdaMitch has a good video on doing that conversion I'd recommend checking out. It's easier to either email us or reach on instagram.
![ว้าว!ลุงบีมแบกทองมารับขวัญหลานกันยกบ้าน [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.49 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Osihq1OAs-4/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, I've done restorations for years and never knew that technique of removing studs, other than visegrip it. Thanks👍
Thanks Bryan! I'm in the process of 2 projects. Your videos are gold! ;)
Thank you for the support Stuart!
Carnal puedes hacer el mismo video pero en español? Para un pobre de México.😊
Thanks bro !!
Can you get it to pass emission (smog) by doing carburetor swap? I'm In California
No. Check your local laws
My mazda bongo f8 engine has high idling after cleaning carburettor what can be the cause?
Idle screw might not be set right. Might need to be tweaked to the proper side
Thank you sir
Flake! Dope video. Can you show me where the idle screw is? I’m having issues finding it. I can see the mixture screw but not the idle. Also what screws let you take the air box off the carb? Thanks man.
Have you checked out the video by Mazda Mitch? He goes way more in detail about the Weber carb and if I recall right points out all the screws you need to know. Check his video out
Does this also work for a 2600?
It'll not work on the fuel injected or G6 engine
@@FlakeGarage it is carb looks almost exactly like yours did but reversed
Does the truck pass smog after you removed all those vacuum lines and doing this swap you have to remove the ac as well?
I don’t live in California so I don’t worry about smog but to answer your question, no you won’t pass with this. Also no ac needs to be removed for this
Ok thank you
Does the carburator need to be specific for b2000 vs b2200?
No, the dame Weber carburetor works on both models
@ 6:33 that little plate/gasket spacer that heats up the carburetor, is it necessary at all if you live in a hot climates to start with? You see I have the stock carb but this is the second time that damn thing has failed on me. It’s about $65-$90 bucks every time for that damn spacer thing so I’m wondering now if I can just delete it altogether. Keep in mind I run the stock carburetor for emissions sake 🙄
If you are on a hot climate like we are in Texas, I don’t think it’s needed and you can most likely just delete it. We get really cold weather for maybe about a 3 weeks and the rest is pretty much summer. Just check for any leaks if you remove it and should be good
Thank you bro!
You can't do this in California right man I just got a 89 and i didnt pass smog
I don’t think so. Always check your state laws. We don’t live in California but I don’t think it’ll pass smog if you remove the factory carb so we wouldn’t recommend it
Does anyone know what causes a carb from a B 2200 getting flooded and quitting on me constantly? 1989
Have you replaced your fuel filter and lines? Dirt in the needle and seat is usually the most common reason why carbs get flooded
I might sound the fool for asking, but you said that many of those vacuum lines and canisters aren't useful any longer. Why aren't we going to keep those lines? Thanks!
No worries, so a lot of those lines were lines that hooked to the factory carburetor and well now have nowhere to plug into. They kept the whole system in check with itself. The Weber carb only needs the timing vacuum line and fuel lines to run. Your egr system is not needed which is that all those canisters and lines are
@@FlakeGarage thanks for replying so quickly! If you noticed your views go up over the weekend it's because I'm doing this exact product and I'm going to be watching this a lot lol
Put part 2 sooner plz
mine dont look like that aT ALL
HERES A COMMENT I LEFT ON MY DUDES SATUFF COUPLE WEEKS AGO
When I got my 1990 Mazda B 2200 it ran amazing then started stalling found a cap off and seen it was getting too much air, caped it, then it started stalling, I could drive it less and less farther then it start and stall wouldn't move, but when I look down in the carb I can see it spray gas in the carb, so I put it up for winter, just pulled carb and cleaned it all and everything put it back on and then it will only run with starting fluid so I went to locate the pump and boom I don't have this fuel pump nor is it in my tank it's on the left of my tank some lil side pump with its own line the old line is folded in half. no gas comes out at the carb when it's on but sprays out at the pump that's located on outside of gas tank where this fuel pump is I don't have anything but 2 gas lines that turn in to one into the carb it's just lines after outside pump idk if I have someone's Frankenstein project. if I take some videos and post them to my TH-cam and DM you, could you maybe tell me anything you, see? I will CashApp for any help possible, advice, issues brought up to aspect, if you might not no, again thank you thank you, if anyone has advice and wants to chime in and help a guy out!!!! Again, thank you if it actually helps I got no problem to shoot a CashApp, or PayPal, or anything along those lines' thanks again guy (Yours Truly Guy With A BROKEN Mazda)
It sounds like you might have had an in tank fuel pump if yours isn't on the side of the engine. They might have ghetto rigged something outside if the in tank pump failed. I'd recommend swapping over to a mechanical pump on the side like on my video. MazdaMitch has a good video on doing that conversion I'd recommend checking out. It's easier to either email us or reach on instagram.
Here is a link to the video I was talking about th-cam.com/video/iPkH8LKhhL4/w-d-xo.html
Use dog pee pads under fuel lines a couple of them will help from getting fuel every where
👉👍👍👍👊👊✌