Core plugs are not for freezing. The holes are there for letting sand and debris out of the cooling system during the casting process. I have seen plenty of blocks cracked and core plugs still in place. I repaired a GM 4 cylinder in a marine application that had a cracked block due to improper wintering preparation.
Agree fully. The core plug holes are there due to the whole casting process and the need to support the inner cores. Those cores make the open passageways which will later be used for the coolant to flow through. Post-pouring the iron, the sand cores are broken out at the foundry during the casting cleaning process. With a nice hole in the block, a plug must be used to close it off. Cheers
Excessive crankshaft end float was a problem with these engine. Something that has reared its head again on modern engine with the advent of stop/start technology. When I did my apprenticeship in a Leyland garage in mid seventies, we used to fit loads of Triumph straight six engines, which had come in with clutch faults due to excess end float.
In AU 20+ yrs ago when i built these, we pinned the thrust washers they never spun after that. now the modern fix is the use a roller thrust bearing like in AU barra motors
I rebuilt mt GT6 engine, using SAH parts i went from 2000cc to 2500cc it would happily rev at 7000 , unfortunately i never had the time to do the rear end mod and rolled it following a puncture on the rear offside tyre, the wheel did the classic GT6 tuck in , going round a sharp bend, 6 months off work, car a write off and i lived !!! from memory the crank thrust bearings caused me problems, and with the engine mod , it really needed a reworked starter as it did struggle, My neighbor was the chief Eng at the local Vauxhall plant Dunstable and we spent hours trying to get it to start following the mods. But when it did work , goodness me what a car ! I then went over to the TR6 bloody marvel that was apart from the rust but thats another story.
Even a hot 2000 or stock 2.5 has too much power for the stock (weak) GT6 diff and axles, sadly, so a full re-engineer is the only path that makes sense. All the BLMC sports cars would have done a lot better if the accountants had loosened the purse-strings and allowed a decent amount of product improvement.
@ 12:19 I suspect if No 1 piston was indeed @ TDC and No 1 Inlet cam lobe was on full lift and the Valve was fully open you would have a valve hitting a piston at worst or no compression at best. I am surprised the engine builder let that pass... Any engine I have built had Inlet Valves opening just after TDC and Exhaust Valves opening just before BDC regardless of duration.
I had a GT6 once, had to get the engine rebuilt because of the split thrust washers on the centre journal literally dropped out in to the sump so that there was about half an inch of end float on the crank. Shame about the plastic bonnet but loved the sound and the drive.
This happens because oil is used for lubrication druring the build and it drops out before the motor is started and rips off the face of the thrust washer. Use an assembly lube or a bit of light grease to prevent this happening. The original factory chain wheels for the cam drive had built in adjustment to time the cam because the bolt holes were drilled offset to the teeth.
As with Wheeler Dealers the talent and attraction on this show is with the real engineers that do the work. The other presenters are just an irritating interruption. It is so good to be able to watch this without the tall bloke we have to tolerate on traditional tv.
Actually the sealing block at the bottom front of the engine is NOT mazak or monkey metal, it is an aluminium alloy, but I agree, the steel one should be better
from his FB page: "Today I have to write to all of our fantastic customers and colleagues That due to my continued health issues We have had to take the very hard decision to place our company Into voluntary liquidation Our business we have loved for the passed twenty five years Will close its doors with myself and jo at the helm on the 31st of October I write this with tears of emotion for the job I loved My feet don’t work like they should which means I am unable to work in a busy work shop environment as I have done all these years Thank you all I hope to still be involved in the triumph scene albeit in a lesser capacity Mark jo"
Enjoyed watching that, if Car S.O.S. was only presented by Fuzz, it’d be a much better show. I really don’t know why Tim is on it and all the ‘made up’ blags and pretending to be someone he’s not just makes an otherwise great show, infantile! Tim is the only spare part on Car S.O.S.
![Car S.O.S. - New Series 11!! [2023] Featuring Tim Shaw & Fuzz Townshend Exclusive Interview](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_YTjPlfrgdc/mqdefault.jpg)
Core plugs are not for freezing. The holes are there for letting sand and debris out of the cooling system during the casting process. I have seen plenty of blocks cracked and core plugs still in place. I repaired a GM 4 cylinder in a marine application that had a cracked block due to improper wintering preparation.
Agree fully. The core plug holes are there due to the whole casting process and the need to support the inner cores. Those cores make the open passageways which will later be used for the coolant to flow through. Post-pouring the iron, the sand cores are broken out at the foundry during the casting cleaning process. With a nice hole in the block, a plug must be used to close it off. Cheers
Love seeing old style engines being rebuilt.
A pleasure to watch a master at work, with the man in the funny hat elaborating as needed.
I miss my GT6 MK2!
More of this please. Very good.
Excessive crankshaft end float was a problem with these engine. Something that has reared its head again on modern engine with the advent of stop/start technology.
When I did my apprenticeship in a Leyland garage in mid seventies, we used to fit loads of Triumph straight six engines, which had come in with clutch faults due to excess end float.
Had a 1.3 triumph spitfire destroy it's clutch when the crank end floats bearings disappeared. Suffice to say the engine was scrap.
In AU 20+ yrs ago when i built these, we pinned the thrust washers they never spun after that. now the modern fix is the use a roller thrust bearing like in AU barra motors
Lovely gents, I have a 1968 gt6+ I am getting ready to do... hopefully mine turns out half as nice.
I rebuilt mt GT6 engine, using SAH parts i went from 2000cc to 2500cc it would happily rev at 7000 , unfortunately i never had the time to do the rear end mod and rolled it following a puncture on the rear offside tyre, the wheel did the classic GT6 tuck in , going round a sharp bend, 6 months off work, car a write off and i lived !!! from memory the crank thrust bearings caused me problems, and with the engine mod , it really needed a reworked starter as it did struggle, My neighbor was the chief Eng at the local Vauxhall plant Dunstable and we spent hours trying to get it to start following the mods. But when it did work , goodness me what a car ! I then went over to the TR6 bloody marvel that was apart from the rust but thats another story.
Je reviens vous saluez si le message pouvais être en français je pourrais comprendre le contenue merci je compte sur votre totale comprhention merci
Even a hot 2000 or stock 2.5 has too much power for the stock (weak) GT6 diff and axles, sadly, so a full re-engineer is the only path that makes sense. All the BLMC sports cars would have done a lot better if the accountants had loosened the purse-strings and allowed a decent amount of product improvement.
Always put tape over the ports after you build it to stop anything going down them
Yes, good luck getting a non ferrous item out with a magnet.
I've not seen it done with a dial gauge before. I use them setting up parts on my lathe. Cool.
@ 12:19 I suspect if No 1 piston was indeed @ TDC and No 1 Inlet cam lobe was on full lift and the Valve was fully open you would have a valve hitting a piston at worst or no compression at best. I am surprised the engine builder let that pass...
Any engine I have built had Inlet Valves opening just after TDC and Exhaust Valves opening just before BDC regardless of duration.
I believe they lined it up only initially to get a zero degree reference, then used the timing wheel to offset it to the proper timing.
Glad to see you used a double crakshaft & camshaft sprocket with double chain, for longevity
No, the core plugs are NOT intended as FREEZE plugs! Top Tip, use Brass or Stainless Steel core plugs that don't rot out.
I had a GT6 once, had to get the engine rebuilt because of the split thrust washers on the centre journal literally dropped out in to the sump so that there was about half an inch of end float on the crank. Shame about the plastic bonnet but loved the sound and the drive.
This happens because oil is used for lubrication druring the build and it drops out before the motor is started and rips off the face of the thrust washer. Use an assembly lube or a bit of light grease to prevent this happening. The original factory chain wheels for the cam drive had built in adjustment to time the cam because the bolt holes were drilled offset to the teeth.
Great video. Pleasure to watch experts at work.
Great video guys 👌🏼👍🏼
As with Wheeler Dealers the talent and attraction on this show is with the real engineers that do the work. The other presenters are just an irritating interruption. It is so good to be able to watch this without the tall bloke we have to tolerate on traditional tv.
Actually the sealing block at the bottom front of the engine is NOT mazak or monkey metal, it is an aluminium alloy, but I agree, the steel one should be better
Love it, thanknyou.
Mark in this video has helped Car S.O.S. on more than one occasion. He just lost his wife (not to covid)... so sad... ..
Sadly Jigsaw Racing is now closed. Great shame for Triumph owners.
from his FB page:
"Today I have to write to all of our fantastic customers and colleagues
That due to my continued health issues
We have had to take the very hard decision to place our company
Into voluntary liquidation
Our business we have loved for the passed twenty five years
Will close its doors with myself and jo at the helm on the 31st of October
I write this with tears of emotion for the job I loved
My feet don’t work like they should which means I am unable to work in a busy work shop environment as I have done all these years
Thank you all
I hope to still be involved in the triumph scene albeit in a lesser capacity
Mark jo"
Why do you never show the finished article, the job done, very frustrating!
'The crank is really tight, I can't turn it by hand'? That will have something to do with six pistons in the bores then...
Top Tip, use cam journal bearings, whereas the engine did not come with any.
Only use cylinder head studs once.
Depends on what kind of studs you use. With ARP i'm not afraid of re using them.
Probably better using original high quality than modern new ones?
Cool
I reused a lock tab on my Dolomite Sprint engine, guess what happened?
" Higher revolutions through the rev range of the car" Eh?
Enjoyed watching that, if Car S.O.S. was only presented by Fuzz, it’d be a much better show. I really don’t know why Tim is on it and all the ‘made up’ blags and pretending to be someone he’s not just makes an otherwise great show, infantile! Tim is the only spare part on Car S.O.S.
Slt a triuph et engine je vous passé un message dans les commentaires et voudra que vous en prennait note merci dieu vous gardent
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