Very informative. Love your presenting style. Relaxed and tongue in cheek. A little bit cheeky and low key. Cravks me up with your funny tea break stops. Keep it up 💪
Thank you for this, I found some useful tips and also it helped give me the confidence that I could tackle this. In fact. I found it easier than I had expected. The printed instructions are a bit unclear, especially regarding the supplied lever. One thing I differed on was to use the ball end in the seat post and the barrel nut in the lever, this much I did get from the instructions. This is better really as you can take up slack more easily from the lever end. If you are thinking of getting one of these, make sure your post extends at least 150 (120mm version + about 30mm for the collar) or 180 mm (for the 150mm version) from the frame when you have your saddle in upright position - otherwise when the Ascender is extended will be too high for you. Also, mine (Ascender II) states that the air can be topped up from a valve in the top of it, to adjust how quickly it returns. So far, so good, looks and feels like a quality bit of kit.
I believe there is now an improved lever with these posts that bolts down at the lever not with a barrel bolt at the bottom of the post. Hope it was still useful though.
Newer versions come with a small barrel already attached to the inner cable end. That then inserts perfectly into another black barrel which fits flush into the dropper switch
No worries glad it helped, if you liked this please check out my other videos and perhaps a subscribe to my channel. Its a big help to me and I really appreciate it 🙏.
My lever gave up after 6months - the pivot just became so loose and when I went to remove it, I rounded the clamp bolt. :(. Now running a bodged old XT lever, much much better!
Ive seen the shifter hack and old grip shifters as well. Wolftooth and race face levers will also work but are pricey. The lever is the weak point here so i need a plan b for when mine dies.
Cheap and just as reliable as droppers twice the price. Probably a bit heavier but if you're not counting grams I don't see why you'd buy a pricier one - I've used it on two bike builds now! The lever is super cheap and plastic, but does the job and can always be replaced.
They have changed bit about the post over the years such as the lever and actuator at the bottom of the post. But the general reliability and value has not diminished. And you can always replace the lever, but they dont seem to break either!
Used this video to install my Ascend dropper and eventhough it sort of works he is putting in the cable the wrong way in. The cable end should start at the dropper, add the little lognut (not the one you can tighten) then feed the cable to the lever. Enter the cable through the lognut you can tighten at the lever side, pull and cut. In using this video's method the lever wouldnt really snap back comfertably and would take alot more force then actually needed.
Hi Maarten, from my understanding the updated lever bolt the cable at the lever, not with a barrel bolt at the bottom of the post. This is a much better design and easier to install as well.
@@StravaigingMTB Might want to add a remark somewhere or make a new vid :) Since this is the nr1 video that pops up if you want to install the Ascend dropper
Glad I'm a comment addict, otherwise I would have done it wrong... Shame there is no remark added about this, cos this vid still comes up for brand x dropper installation
Great 👍 Just out of interest what torque setting did you use for the seatpost clamp? Can't seem to find it online I would guess no more than 6Nm but would like to know any other thoughts Cheers 🍻
@@StravaigingMTB I already watched this video.. The post seems to be very good (for its price). I had a Revive dropper before on my ex bike. Naturally the Syncros isn't that smooth, but it also costs only a quarter of the price of the Revive.
+Aidan Haines glad you found it useful, I forgot to mention that once the cable has bedded in you will need to adjust the barrel adjuster like when you install a fresh gear cable for a mech.
The later lever is i spec ii and backwards compatible with the early post folks. Plus it is nipple at post end so easy-install. £24.99 at the moment and night/day with the wobbly lever.
normally they are a sealed cartridge so you can't top up the air. I've had this issue due to slack cable tension. try increasing the tension at the lever barrel adjuster hopefully that should work. otherwise a new cartridge might be needed.
Hi there, no my manual was accurate to the post in question. This process is however applicable to more or less all cable actuated internally routed posts.
The seatpost nipple has two Allen heads to get it right tight. If you have more internal feed the inner with magnets and witchcraft then feed the outer over from the seat end back to the trigger.
Good question but....no. thats how frames crack. Steel frames can be modded but usually need a lug to reinforce the hole. Brand X also have a model that is not internally routed.
If your out of warranty go for it , just don't drill close to any welds or too close to the bottom bracket area , even bodge an existing bottle cage mount hole
Hotlines UK is the distributor so they would be my first port of call. Also the Shimano Kovorak post is the same as Brand X, so Madison might have one as well.
Yup it will work with more or less any cable actuated lever. The lever is definitely the weak link, I am planning on replacing it when it fails but its actually been a surprisingly reliable lever.
doing the lords work, I got everything right except the inner cable was the wrong way around, i installed an external routed one on one of my other bikes and the ferrule goes on the seat side not the lever side
I have to ask, I knew buying this the lever was flimsy but just took it out for a ride and just got back, have you had any issues with your lever rattling? I've double checked the bolts and screws mid ride but the thing just wont stop rattling, would it be worth investing in a decent ever?
Yup, its a riveted pivot so you can't tighten it and it has a horrendous amount of slop. It needs frequent re-adjustment but im keeping mine until it fails. I cant justify spending 50% what i paid on the post for a lever when its still working. Race Face and Wolftooth make nice ones that will work no bother.
3:29 I use Loctite 243 on every thread on my bike, including everything on the cockpit. for me it's impossible not to, especially in the winter, no Loctite means loose in few minutes of riding, bottom brackets loose in 10 minutes, the rest can take pit longer, but cranks and pedals eventually get loose too. different materials expand and shirk at different rates, so looseing of threads will happen, but virbation do it too so thats why Loctite is crusial.
+Johannes Nilsen excellent point! Its not mentioned in the video but loctite is on the lever clamp bolt, I think you can just see it. Some stuff comes with locktite pre applied, but tend to clean bolts off and apply fresh. I dont always mention that to keep videos from being too long.
Hi there, is it very important to have 18-19mm gap between the cable and barrel nut? My lever doesn't have enough resistance. I tried several times already. Thanks
@@StravaigingMTB Thanks for the quick response, so only the outer cable housing needs to be cut after measurement right? Or do you cut the inner cable as well after you cut the excess outer housing.
@@dhumau5819 I would start of by not cutting anything, if there is lots of slack at the lever, then shorten the distance between the barrel nut and the post end and the cable outer. This will mean less lever throw will be needed to actuate the post.
Thansk for taking the time to say and for watching the vid. This was the 125 variant, the more recent ones and 150 versio s have an updated lever that bolts at the lever and not internal to the post.
Hi, I have a Lapierre Zesty AM 327 with a 'Lapierre' dropper on it - After a fair amount of digging about I find that it's basically the brand x ascend or the tranz x Y-12 so the same as this one. In the middle of the dropper at the top under where the seat goes there's a small nut on a bolt. I took that off looking for an air nipple (it was sagging slightly at top extension and someone mentioned putting air in so I investigated) The nut came off but nothing else happened. I fiddled with it a bit then put it back on; do you know what that does perchance? Couldn't find a manual or instructions anywhere. I'm now trying to change the cable as it had frayed and I think that was causing the problem as it wasn't clicking back into locked position all the way
Also struggling to change the cable as the remote has a whacky right angled bit of metal tube that I think is a tensioner of some kind. Not sure how to release it properly to get the old inner gear cable out.
The post has a gas strut inside, same as your car boot. There is no adjuatable air spring. If its sagging then the cartridge needa replacing, the bolt holds the cartridge in place. You can speak to your LBS about getting a new cart, they arent expensive.
@@StravaigingMTB Brilliant thanks. As I say, from further inspection I'm pretty sure it's a cable issue rather than the cartridge. I'm now wrestling with the cable and trying to fit a new one in the old housing
I used a slightly smaller then 3mm Allen key on the lever clamp and ruined the bolt. Ugh so now I need to get a new lever. Everything else went good though
Stravaiging MTB I was able to get the bolt out so now I’m either going to look for a bolt of similar size or run by my LBS and try o get an old shifter or cheap lever. Anything beats buying a ks southpaw or a 60dollar Wolf tooth
Great video dude. I have one which now no longer stays down or up lol. Any ideas on how to fix this? Will it be a tension problem? Subbed of this video 👌🏼
My guess is still that the cable tension is too tight. This could be because the seat post was raised in the frame (even a small amount) or even that the cable got yanked in a crash.
After just over the post has no noticeable lateral play, the lever whilst flimsy looking has not failed either. Cosmetically all the anodizing has lasted well. Stripping and rebuilding the post is very straight forward. It has developed a habit of not going to full extension. To fix thus it will need a new gas cartridge a bit like the ones for your car boot. These are about £40 but ill try the warranty first.
If you buy this seatpost now with the intube fitting, there's no need to measure the part that goes into the dropper. The cable fits the other way round with the barrel adjuster on the bar end for easy cable length adjustment.
I don't have that post but I have one that services exactly the same. It's straightforward as it's a sealed gas cartridge like a car boot so it's little more than clean and lube.
Stravaiging MTB ok but it‘s your bike in that video? Did you change the dropper post? Yeah please make this video tutorial, it really would help me.. :)
@@jim_morrison4583 I ran it for a 1000km then swapped it for the same post with more drop with a Giant badge on it. Coil, I have a few lockdown requests but I think might do this one first.
Sorry to hear that! Was it the Ascend or Ascend XL that you have? The instructions were a little thin with the model I had, but this process should work with a lot of cable posts.
Great idea! For a short review - better than many more expensive posts, the lever is guff but quite reliable. You can get a race face turbine lever and this post for less than the majority of posts. No reliability issues to report.
DO NOT GET THIS DROPPER SEATPOST MINE WAS PROBABLY FAULTY BUT DID NOT WORK (wont rise up) AFTER A FEW DAYS COSTUMER SERVICE AND RETURN PROCESS WAS HORRIBLE, CONFUSING AND STRESSFUL!
Sorry to hear that, whilst I have heard of some post failing at the expanding collet, that would lead to the post not staying in a lowered position. I must of been leaking air, shame as I've had a pretty good run with this one, which was also a second hand post.
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Very informative. Love your presenting style. Relaxed and tongue in cheek.
A little bit cheeky and low key.
Cravks me up with your funny tea break stops. Keep it up 💪
I just got an Ascend 01 and it's actually the other way around. The ferrule end goes to the seatpost. Lever has changed a bit as well.
Cool I'll check that out!
Philippe Jette yeah mine is the opposite way round to this too
Thank you for this, I found some useful tips and also it helped give me the confidence that I could tackle this. In fact. I found it easier than I had expected. The printed instructions are a bit unclear, especially regarding the supplied lever. One thing I differed on was to use the ball end in the seat post and the barrel nut in the lever, this much I did get from the instructions. This is better really as you can take up slack more easily from the lever end. If you are thinking of getting one of these, make sure your post extends at least 150 (120mm version + about 30mm for the collar) or 180 mm (for the 150mm version) from the frame when you have your saddle in upright position - otherwise when the Ascender is extended will be too high for you. Also, mine (Ascender II) states that the air can be topped up from a valve in the top of it, to adjust how quickly it returns. So far, so good, looks and feels like a quality bit of kit.
The instructions are pretty awful!
A gear cable won’t fit properly at the post end.
@@Cous1nJack the cable is the wrong way around in this video!
I believe there is now an improved lever with these posts that bolts down at the lever not with a barrel bolt at the bottom of the post. Hope it was still useful though.
Newer versions come with a small barrel already attached to the inner cable end. That then inserts perfectly into another black barrel which fits flush into the dropper switch
Thats a big improvement on the original lever!
Thats what i was looking for my cube vario Dropper post. Thanks a lot
No worries glad it helped, if you liked this please check out my other videos and perhaps a subscribe to my channel. Its a big help to me and I really appreciate it 🙏.
My lever gave up after 6months - the pivot just became so loose and when I went to remove it, I rounded the clamp bolt. :(. Now running a bodged old XT lever, much much better!
Ive seen the shifter hack and old grip shifters as well. Wolftooth and race face levers will also work but are pricey. The lever is the weak point here so i need a plan b for when mine dies.
Thanks will have a look at the cable 👍
Thank you, I was missing the installation instructions and the clamp part threw me for a loop
+Jake G glad it helped! Its one of those jobs that is easy if you know how!
Hi
Just had one fitted to my Stance 2. Did you find that the saddle wiggled side to side? Quite a bit of lateral movement on mine.
Cheap and just as reliable as droppers twice the price. Probably a bit heavier but if you're not counting grams I don't see why you'd buy a pricier one - I've used it on two bike builds now! The lever is super cheap and plastic, but does the job and can always be replaced.
They have changed bit about the post over the years such as the lever and actuator at the bottom of the post. But the general reliability and value has not diminished. And you can always replace the lever, but they dont seem to break either!
Thnx alot, short and informative video!
Used this video to install my Ascend dropper and eventhough it sort of works he is putting in the cable the wrong way in. The cable end should start at the dropper, add the little lognut (not the one you can tighten) then feed the cable to the lever. Enter the cable through the lognut you can tighten at the lever side, pull and cut. In using this video's method the lever wouldnt really snap back comfertably and would take alot more force then actually needed.
Hi Maarten, from my understanding the updated lever bolt the cable at the lever, not with a barrel bolt at the bottom of the post. This is a much better design and easier to install as well.
@@StravaigingMTB Might want to add a remark somewhere or make a new vid :) Since this is the nr1 video that pops up if you want to install the Ascend dropper
Glad I'm a comment addict, otherwise I would have done it wrong... Shame there is no remark added about this, cos this vid still comes up for brand x dropper installation
Better than any reverb and much easier to service
You make it look so easy, wonder if this will be another '4 hours later' deal for me 🤣
Great 👍
Just out of interest what torque setting did you use for the seatpost clamp?
Can't seem to find it online
I would guess no more than 6Nm but would like to know any other thoughts
Cheers 🍻
5 or 6 nm, some of my seat clamps have torque listed on them and its always in that range.
Thank you very much for this guide! I just mounted my Syncros dropper (identical to the Ascend) with your guide!
Glad it helped! There are so many badged up that are the Tranz X post. Go watch my 1000km review to see what you can expect long term!
@@StravaigingMTB I already watched this video.. The post seems to be very good (for its price). I had a Revive dropper before on my ex bike. Naturally the Syncros isn't that smooth, but it also costs only a quarter of the price of the Revive.
@@StravaigingMTB by the way, I used a Race Face Turbine 1x remote instead of the Syncros remote. It works very well with this post..
Awesome, I had wondered about it so thats good confirmation!
@@StravaigingMTB whats funny too, is that I mounted it on a Banshee Rune, so your video fitted very well for my installation of the post :)
This video helped alot with making the installation rather quick
+Aidan Haines glad you found it useful, I forgot to mention that once the cable has bedded in you will need to adjust the barrel adjuster like when you install a fresh gear cable for a mech.
The later lever is i spec ii and backwards compatible with the early post folks. Plus it is nipple at post end so easy-install. £24.99 at the moment and night/day with the wobbly lever.
Hi my brand x is going up quite slowly do I need to put some air in it
normally they are a sealed cartridge so you can't top up the air. I've had this issue due to slack cable tension. try increasing the tension at the lever barrel adjuster hopefully that should work. otherwise a new cartridge might be needed.
Did your manual show other parts that were missing ? A rubber bung ...a cap and a thin black tube thats in a preset angle ?
Hi there, no my manual was accurate to the post in question. This process is however applicable to more or less all cable actuated internally routed posts.
@@StravaigingMTB I think it relates to the position in which you mount the switch. My definitely didn't not come with the protective cap.
Neither did mine, the positioning of lever took me a few attempts to get it to a point I could easily depress it without fowling my brake lever.
The seatpost nipple has two Allen heads to get it right tight. If you have more internal feed the inner with magnets and witchcraft then feed the outer over from the seat end back to the trigger.
If I don't have a hole in my post to run the cable into...I can just drill one... right..? Scott aspect 970
Good question but....no. thats how frames crack. Steel frames can be modded but usually need a lug to reinforce the hole. Brand X also have a model that is not internally routed.
If your out of warranty go for it , just don't drill close to any welds or too close to the bottom bracket area , even bodge an existing bottle cage mount hole
Alu may be more prone to having a crack run. Even steel frames get lugged to stop cracks forming.
Hi please can you tell me where can I buy a brand x service kit ?
Hotlines UK is the distributor so they would be my first port of call. Also the Shimano Kovorak post is the same as Brand X, so Madison might have one as well.
Thank you :) your a life saver
Your welcome dude! Don't forget to like and subscribe! 👍🏻
I just purchased one but reviews say the remote is flimsy. Can i use a better remote such as Race face or wolftooth? Thanks
Yup it will work with more or less any cable actuated lever. The lever is definitely the weak link, I am planning on replacing it when it fails but its actually been a surprisingly reliable lever.
Great video mate!
Cheers hope it was helpful.
Is there a sale buttom.?
Excellent stuff. Thanks.
doing the lords work, I got everything right except the inner cable was the wrong way around, i installed an external routed one on one of my other bikes and the ferrule goes on the seat side not the lever side
Ah bugger, thats frustrating. Hope it was quicker second time round!
I have to ask, I knew buying this the lever was flimsy but just took it out for a ride and just got back, have you had any issues with your lever rattling? I've double checked the bolts and screws mid ride but the thing just wont stop rattling, would it be worth investing in a decent ever?
Yup, its a riveted pivot so you can't tighten it and it has a horrendous amount of slop. It needs frequent re-adjustment but im keeping mine until it fails. I cant justify spending 50% what i paid on the post for a lever when its still working. Race Face and Wolftooth make nice ones that will work no bother.
Can it be fitted to the right side of the bars? I already my my lockout on the left. Thanks
As the lever and clamp are two parts so I think yes you can.
I double checked and yes but the paddle of the lever will be over the bars not under.
@@StravaigingMTB ok thanks very much
3:29 I use Loctite 243 on every thread on my bike, including everything on the cockpit. for me it's impossible not to, especially in the winter, no Loctite means loose in few minutes of riding, bottom brackets loose in 10 minutes, the rest can take pit longer, but cranks and pedals eventually get loose too.
different materials expand and shirk at different rates, so looseing of threads will happen, but virbation do it too so thats why Loctite is crusial.
+Johannes Nilsen excellent point! Its not mentioned in the video but loctite is on the lever clamp bolt, I think you can just see it. Some stuff comes with locktite pre applied, but tend to clean bolts off and apply fresh. I dont always mention that to keep videos from being too long.
yea I always apply fresh Loctite, so it cures between the two surfaces.
+Johannes Nilsen I'm a big fan of copper grease on splined fittings as well. TF1 grease else where.
I have not tried copper grease.
+Johannes Nilsen crazy sticky and helps with creaks and stopping things like centre lock rotors seizing.
Hi there, is it very important to have 18-19mm gap between the cable and barrel nut? My lever doesn't have enough resistance. I tried several times already. Thanks
You could try shortening that distance but do so in short increments.
@@StravaigingMTB Thanks for the quick response, so only the outer cable housing needs to be cut after measurement right? Or do you cut the inner cable as well after you cut the excess outer housing.
@@dhumau5819 I would start of by not cutting anything, if there is lots of slack at the lever, then shorten the distance between the barrel nut and the post end and the cable outer. This will mean less lever throw will be needed to actuate the post.
@@StravaigingMTB I've done every thing exactly as the video but still the lever feels very soft and there's hardly any resistance.
How much weight can this dropper hold?
Not sure but you should be able to Google the manual and see.
@@StravaigingMTB I have looked everywhere and I can't get it. Documentation is very bad.
Where to put the lever when you have an front derailleur and shifter?
+Mega Jaxx this lever is in place of a frint shifter, for a front mech you need an alternative lever. CRC sell them as an after market option.
www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-ascend-lever-kit-paddle-2x-3x-gears-/rp-prod150119 Here is the lever kit in question.
*Good video! , but, ¿Where did you buy the dropper?, i would like to know because im thinking in buy the dropper post*
Chain reactions cycles.
*Stravaiging MTB Ok, Thank you so much!*
Nice vid! Just curious, is yours the 125 or 150?
Thansk for taking the time to say and for watching the vid. This was the 125 variant, the more recent ones and 150 versio s have an updated lever that bolts at the lever and not internal to the post.
@@StravaigingMTB thanks for the info!
Hi, I have a Lapierre Zesty AM 327 with a 'Lapierre' dropper on it - After a fair amount of digging about I find that it's basically the brand x ascend or the tranz x Y-12 so the same as this one. In the middle of the dropper at the top under where the seat goes there's a small nut on a bolt. I took that off looking for an air nipple (it was sagging slightly at top extension and someone mentioned putting air in so I investigated) The nut came off but nothing else happened. I fiddled with it a bit then put it back on; do you know what that does perchance? Couldn't find a manual or instructions anywhere. I'm now trying to change the cable as it had frayed and I think that was causing the problem as it wasn't clicking back into locked position all the way
Also struggling to change the cable as the remote has a whacky right angled bit of metal tube that I think is a tensioner of some kind. Not sure how to release it properly to get the old inner gear cable out.
The post has a gas strut inside, same as your car boot. There is no adjuatable air spring. If its sagging then the cartridge needa replacing, the bolt holds the cartridge in place. You can speak to your LBS about getting a new cart, they arent expensive.
@@StravaigingMTB Brilliant thanks. As I say, from further inspection I'm pretty sure it's a cable issue rather than the cartridge. I'm now wrestling with the cable and trying to fit a new one in the old housing
Well good luck!
I used a slightly smaller then 3mm Allen key on the lever clamp and ruined the bolt. Ugh so now I need to get a new lever. Everything else went good though
+Umbrace Titan bugger! You might be able to extract the bolt with a bolt extracting bit. It will save you buying a whole new lever for one round bolt.
Stravaiging MTB I was able to get the bolt out so now I’m either going to look for a bolt of similar size or run by my LBS and try o get an old shifter or cheap lever. Anything beats buying a ks southpaw or a 60dollar Wolf tooth
Your LBS will have a random bolt that fits, glad you got it out!
Stravaiging MTB they Gave me a 4mm bolt which is stronger and works perfect. Thx for advice
Great video dude. I have one which now no longer stays down or up lol. Any ideas on how to fix this? Will it be a tension problem? Subbed of this video 👌🏼
thanks for the sub! my guess would be cable tension being too tight, try backing off the barrel adjuster on the lever.
Having this exact problem right now, just wondering if you ever got this sorted? Cheers
My guess is still that the cable tension is too tight. This could be because the seat post was raised in the frame (even a small amount) or even that the cable got yanked in a crash.
@@StravaigingMTB thank you, will give this a go. Subbed too 👍
Thanks
Saved me some time
Your welcome, glad it was useful.
Hey man! Have you tried adding air in the post? Read the manual but cant find the valve. All i see is a thread.
This model has no air adjust, just a factory set cartridge not dissimilar to the rams that open your car boot.
Hi, thanks for the video. I am about to buy this dropper post. Could you please give us some feed back after a year of use? Cheers
After just over the post has no noticeable lateral play, the lever whilst flimsy looking has not failed either. Cosmetically all the anodizing has lasted well. Stripping and rebuilding the post is very straight forward. It has developed a habit of not going to full extension. To fix thus it will need a new gas cartridge a bit like the ones for your car boot. These are about £40 but ill try the warranty first.
@@StravaigingMTB Thanks for the answer! Would you recommend it to a mate?
Yes, they are £99 on CRC and for that you could get two and a spare cartridge compared to the competition. The action is smooth as well.
Looking at the number of sales from the website you should do a one year test review of the dropper post. You could get lots of views!
Im actually planning that and a strip down video.
If you buy this seatpost now with the intube fitting, there's no need to measure the part that goes into the dropper. The cable fits the other way round with the barrel adjuster on the bar end for easy cable length adjustment.
The Giant Contact is the same and its a much easier install. The only thing that is essentially different is the lever has a bolt in it for the cable.
*Incredible, can you say the size of seatpost (minimum insert, maximun insert) all lenght that i think is 410mm, ¡please!*
@@purpleturtle8841 are those the measurements to the top of the seat rails? And including actuator?
Is that an 18mm gap? You said that fast...
Ha! Sorry, and yes, I believe thats correct from memory.
Ended up getting a wolf tooth aftermarket lever which eliminates having to measure this anyway.. but the post is awesome of course
Im waiting for my lever to fail before upgrading to the cane creek or wolf tooth but a year and several crashes later.. still going!
Stravaiging MTB ..
Same here.. brand x ha been good to me for surd
What size is this
30.9mm
how much for it?
On chain reactions just now, £99.99
Definitely took me longer than 4 minutes to install. Nice dropper though. Works as it should
thank you!
Cheers muchly
Your welcome 👍
Hi, could you make a video guide about how to service/maintain this dropper? That would be very nice! Cheers
I don't have that post but I have one that services exactly the same. It's straightforward as it's a sealed gas cartridge like a car boot so it's little more than clean and lube.
Stravaiging MTB ok but it‘s your bike in that video? Did you change the dropper post? Yeah please make this video tutorial, it really would help me.. :)
@@jim_morrison4583 I ran it for a 1000km then swapped it for the same post with more drop with a Giant badge on it. Coil, I have a few lockdown requests but I think might do this one first.
Stravaiging MTB ok sounds great! I always enjoy your videos! Ride on
Thanks man appreciate you taking the time to say that.
Cheers
i bought a brand x so hard to install its not the same as the video! the manual doesnt even tell how to detail install it ....
Sorry to hear that! Was it the Ascend or Ascend XL that you have? The instructions were a little thin with the model I had, but this process should work with a lot of cable posts.
Stravaiging MTB i messed up the cable trying to figure it out , im so mad!
Gutted! The cables are standard gear cable inner and outers. So cheap and easy to replace if its gubbed.
Stravaiging MTB finally nailed it, had to replaced the cable though :)
Glad you got there in the end!!
Isn't that Jordan boostmaster's theme song?
Possibly! Its a royalty free track off of bensounds! 😂
*Test video please!*
Great idea! For a short review - better than many more expensive posts, the lever is guff but quite reliable. You can get a race face turbine lever and this post for less than the majority of posts. No reliability issues to report.
*Stravaiging MTB Yes!, im thinking to buy this so i would like to see a review!*
shit happens my frame dont have that hole for cable
soulfulfool lol drill it!
DO NOT GET THIS DROPPER SEATPOST MINE WAS PROBABLY FAULTY BUT DID NOT WORK (wont rise up) AFTER A FEW DAYS COSTUMER SERVICE AND RETURN PROCESS WAS HORRIBLE, CONFUSING AND STRESSFUL!
Sorry to hear that, whilst I have heard of some post failing at the expanding collet, that would lead to the post not staying in a lowered position. I must of been leaking air, shame as I've had a pretty good run with this one, which was also a second hand post.
All wrong