The info just keeps getting better. This is this channels best contribution to cycling by far. Doddy knows set up, and its critical for mountain biking.
For years I refuse to get a dropper post... then my new bike came with one and is awesome, I am getting more fore my other bikes, thanks for the tutorial Doddie,cheers!
I've resisted getting a dropper for all these years, I just never felt like I needed one. I'm installing one on my XC tomorrow, I hope I find it as 'essential' as everyone says they are! Great install video Doddy. The part about measuring the cable still isn't 100% clear, I assume you measured the 165mm down from the original 'frame' mark, and that 165mm amount was based on your dropper length inside the frame, but I'll make sure to measure multiple times before cutting.
Thanks for explaining the cable. Other dropper post "experts" never mention it. Your video explaining things so clearly is unique and absolutely outstanding. New fan.
Got my hands on a Ragley Big Al 2.0 without dropper this year. Ordered a Brand X dropper from Chain Reaction Cycles and used your video to aid in my install. Thought I would not say the install was 'easy', your video really made my install relatively headache free. Was very careful every step of the way, especially cutting the cables, so your video was a huge help. Thanks!!
Found this vid useful. Good solution I used today to install brand x dropper post cable internally on my 2021 vitus hardtail is to feed a length of wool - yes wool - down thro the top hole in the downtube, put the hoover nozzle over the hole at the lower end of the downtube, which sucks out the wool. Tie a length of decent fishing line to end of the wool, tie other end of fishing line around the end of the outer cable, just below the ferule/end cover so it has something to grip, wrap tape around this to prevent the knot from snagging on the hole(s), making a conical shape so the end is streamlined for smooth egress from the top hole... feed the outer cable up the downtube, pulling the fishing line at the same time... Et Voila... the outer cable pops out the top hole and has been successfully routed internally thro the downtube. Wool works well as being light and 'fluffy' it catches the air better than string/bootlace etc which I also tried without success. The wool and hoover method worked first time for me. The outer cable then easily feeds up thro the hole at the back of the seat tube behind the bottom bracket on my bike - others may be different - the rest is straightforward, follow product instructions. A good spin on the bike followed with dropper post working well :-)
I used the wire cable itself as a guide. I inserted it first on the bike frame along with the remote lever and protruded it out of the seat tube. Next is I slide the housing cable into the wire cable that is already inside the bike frame thru the seat tube and up towards the routing coming outside of the downtube. And viola, the upper end of the housing will automatically fit to the remote lever as you pushed. Finally is setting the wire cable length with respect to the housing cable using the plastic piece protector that came with the droper post to fit to the engagement of the dropper. (Note: I did not cut my housing cable as I estimated the stock length is appropriate for my frame)
That cable routing tool is a great idea, but I needed one in a pinch so I knocked one up, used a small tie rod end from an RC car with a screw in it tied to a length of string and a magnet inside a sock (using a clean one is optional), then a paper clip to hook it once you're on the port, worked a charm and cost nothing!! Any questions gimme a shout!!
@@danielbromley849 I can't post a photo unfortunately, basically you need to tie something made of a metal that the magnet will grab and small enough to fit through the ports to the string, pop it in the port, then cover a good strong magnet in fabric so as not to scratch the frame and pull the metal along to the exit port then hook it out, then back to where you went in, attach the loose end of the string to your cable outer with a couple of wraps of tape, it needs to be able to fit in the port, so not too much tape (good idea to put a knot in the string so it can't pull out from under the tape), pull the string through and the cable outer will follow, once that's in thread the cable inner through and the hard bit is done
I got a cheap one with the lever under the saddle. I have to take my hand off the bars but it's ok. So far I have no real issues with it. Clean cockpit.
I would die to have a shop that looks like that! All the tools match, clean and no son to make off with the wrench that i need the first time I need it. Great video. Thanks.
as a complete noob a few years ago on a hardtail I knew the single most important upgrade was a dropper, that and tyres that grip and dont puncture by looking at them.
A catch with this specific model: 9:00 minute: when you stick the grey cylinder into the post you have to turn it clockwise to the limit (lock point) and only then tighten the black lockring, otherwise when the remote cable is in its released state the cable-side rotor gets to its most-clockwise position, but the seatpost-side rotor doesn't and the dropper doesn't lock completely.
Great! Thanks Doddy. Appreciate this but showing the cable routing technique without the cable tool would have been handy to. Its an expensive bit of kit that I’m not likely to use that often...
Hey Addsy, Find an old spoke and bend the end creating a hooked pick tool and then poke this into the cable exit hole. Feed the cable through until it passes through this and then pull it out. Hopefully this helps you 👍
1:38 actually a problem I had was the lack of information on the actual DEPTH of the seat post. I have a Giant Faith 2010 and had to do a bit of manual measurement with the old seat post, dropping it as far as it would go, (which is actually not all that far in my frames case) to get the maximum depth, then measuring the old post at its highest ride height for me.. (109% etc) to get the maximum length overall that could fit... Then it was just a case of finding the best drop I could get within that length... and there actually wasn't many options for my budget or even no price limit.. with factors like no internal cable routing option etc. due to the kink and pivot halfway down the seat post tube. I went with a Zoom Tequilla (100mm drop) from the cheap range to make sure the calculations were right etc. I have about 20mm unused depth with it at the correct height... but if I really need it, I can always drop the body and run the day with a short max height, but gain the extra 20mm drop. (There wasn't a post that gave a better lower position without loosing upper, or bottoming out before the upper most position was at my riding height (which would have ment having to constantly adjust the seat to get the correct climp position rather than it just being set at full extension. Due to the frame geometry, the exposed post to the seat is almost the same length as the depth from the top of the frame tube to the suspension pivot they ran through the center of the post tube to ensure it was impossible to get a longer post in. What I need is a 2 stage telescopic post to get more than the 100mm but the design would have to be heavy to retain strength over the joints...
All adult males that attempt to make instructional and informational videos, this is the standard by which all others should be judged. NO bullshit, NO headbanger music, NO childish graphics, NO animated stupidity, just INFORMATION. Thank you GMBN Tech.
Great video, I like feed some lub. through a cable like you did but i have been told not to, been doing it for over 30 year with no problems so far and when some of the bikes i service are never kept indoors
Thanks for that. I'm planning on having a dropper post on my next paycheck, and I have absolutely no idea on how it will be installed. This video gave me insight on what to expect. Now I'm not doing any trails, but I live on an area with rough roads.
Raise your hand if you had to pull the cranks & BB to install a dropper cable & housing. Some bike makers really didn't think through this part of the design. (And I'm talking about a '20 Scott Spark, so not some ancient bike!) 🤚 Man how nice it would be to be able to pull that Park guide through all bikes!
My buddy found a dropper from a company called brand-x he ordered it for $100 with free shipping it works great and it has 150mm of travel it’s actually good especially for the money
Thanks for the info I just replaced my cable and lever today but got carried away at the start and pulled the old cable and housing straight Out so I had to feed a piece of string with a bolt tied to the end through then tie and tape that to the new housing and pull it back
Or for anyone who cant afford a more modern bike and the specs are not available (my bike was made in 1999) is to use a venier caliper to measure the seat tube diameter.
Great Channel! You are my goto for Mountain Bike Setup! I am building a Carbon Scott Scale. My Question/ Concern is, I am adding a Dropper Seat and it requires a fully cased cable terminated under the Dropper itself and at the Control Lever of course. So First question is it ok to drill out the frame entry (Hard Plastic Grommet insert) to have fully cased cable from control to Dropper... Second Concern is Rear Derailleur enters frame "Typical" Left side... Dropper Control will be on the Left Bar and enter the frame "Typical" Right side... I feel like its going to result in an In-Frame cable crossing (Rubbing?), as the Scott has a bare interior cable setup for the rear Derailleur that exits "Right" side under Bottom Bracket! Left over to right! Dropper will be Right to, up the center Seat Tube of course? Whats your thoughts?
Im having a heck of a time getting housing thru my frame without it shredding the outer housing up. Ruined the first one already. Gonna try a Jagwire Pro kit as it serms the outer housing is smaller diameter and more flexible
Hi Doddy, dropper post is the upgrade i would do anytime .. but unfortunately .. got to wait a little bit more .. as the prices of the upgrades are out of my reach for now. Thank's for the video .. always a great help ;-) Cheers !! ;-)
I want to fit a dropper post to wife's emtb. She finds it hard to get on and off with the seat at the right height for 'straight leg down' when pedalling. Have 20cm inside seat tube but need absolute minimum protruding above top of seat tube with dropper down. Getting info for available droppers is a nightmare!
Really nice tutorial. Also, if you were not so advert oriented, you would use a Shimano TL-CT12 cable cutter that already comes with a pick to make sure the housing is opened up properly on both ends.
Hey Doddy, I recently mounted an RFR Pro dropper post on my hartail Cube Reaction hybrid. now I have read that There is a maximum rider weight recommended for this dropper. I am not a light weight rider myself and my own weight is sitting against the max weight of the dropper, which makes it not so pleasant, I am afraid that I can damage the dropper if I ride on it. I was wondering why I don't see this in any of the dropper videos? Is this something I should take seriously or just an indication? I wonder how many people have had any problems with this.
You didn’t show how tight the collar at the bottom is to take off out of the box. I gave up trying to unscrew my one when installing my dropper seat post. But I like the crank brother seat post a lot better that the rock shox that came with my T-130s
I like lyric because it’s red, I do not like whole wheat bread, I don’t want to go to bed, Maxxis assegais that I have had for about 2 weeks already have no tread,
I'm confused, instead of all this measuring can't you theoretically just insert the dropper with the cable and cable housing already ran through the bike and connected to the dropper, set it at the proper height for the way you ride , then pull the slack out at the top then just pull the cable tight and secure it at the lever?
I’d recommend soldering the end of the cable to prevent fraying instead of crimping. If done cleanly you can pull the cable out without cutting or prying the crimp off which WILL damage the cable requiring replacement
Have you actually managed get this to work on modern cables and housing? It used to be common back in the days before cables were stainless and housing had a PTFE liner Solder Wire. We have tried this with a sanded Galvanised inner but had pretty poor results. It's also hard to get Solder with Lead in it now in England.
Use super glue for this instead of solder. On a pre-existing install, if you know you are going to be removing the cable and want to try and salvage it, super glue it just above the crimped on crimp thingie a day before you need to remove it. Now you can cleanly cut the cable and it won't fray.
Tryinglittleleg the crimpers will do a cleaner and better job every time. Also, worth mentioning in case they don’t actually realise their wire cutters have the crimpers...
This tutorial is good but made with an easy to mount seatpost my sdg tellis is a pain in the ass to reinstall because my cable was too long and now everytime i pull the lever the cable either loosens or the cable dislodges from the seatpost :/
I heard the custom drop post that dont come standard sometimes get or are a bit loose, leading the post/seat to rattle? Is should this be this case once installed?
My 400mm bizango seat post can drop 250mm into the tube. Would I be able to fit a 170mm dropper (274mm insert including actuator) with 30mm left below the collar? So 244mm inserted in the frame. Just curious as the measurements say yes yet I've read someone saying you can't even fit a 150mm post. Maybe they're just assuming a full insert.
The bike is solid and my Ebike conversion went great. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Very smooth ride at 30mph with no problems (135 miles ridden so far). The picture is a bit deceiving - there is WAY less space in the center of the frame than it shows. The suspension connection takes up the entire thing. So I needed to attach my battery on the bottom of the frame and my controller on the top. Instructions for assembly were lacking but honestly it wasn't too hard to figure out even though I have very little bike knowledge. Watched some youtube videos on adjusting the disk brakes but that was it. Still, I am loving it and very happy with the purchase.
Help... Can you hang your bike from under the seat on your car rack with a dropper post fully extended? My bike is small and only one arm can go through the frame the other allways attached to the seat post but now I have a dropper...What to do beside getting new platform rack?
Hi there I have bought a brand new bike around a mouth ago I have used it today at a bike park for the first time I have rode it in the past by only on small trails, now my cable dropper post will not stay lock down it keep rising up by its self and the lever for the post feels stiff, is there any Advice you can give for me to fix it thank you
Help! I can’t get the Park Tool assembly paste for love nor money and can’t seem to find an alternative in the UK. Just got a 200mm dropper but don’t want to instal it and over tighten so is there any other assembly grease for ali frames as I don’t want to fit my £160 dropper only to over tighten it on the first attempt.
The biggest advantage of hydraulic posts is that you get to purchase a $60 bleed kit and bleed the system each time it is installed. The second advantage is you get to send it in for an expensive repair after half a season. But at least you already own a bleed kit when you get the post back two months later. A third advantage is you end up buying a cheaper dropper post the second time you send it in for repair. Then realize that the cheaper cable actuated dropper post works really well and wonder why you paid over $600 for the hydraulic seat post that comes with the worst push button design. Yeah, if you don't own a hydraulic dropper post you are missing out.
The info just keeps getting better. This is this channels best contribution to cycling by far. Doddy knows set up, and its critical for mountain biking.
Thanks! 👍
For years I refuse to get a dropper post... then my new bike came with one and is awesome, I am getting more fore my other bikes, thanks for the tutorial Doddie,cheers!
Probably the best purchase for a bike you’ll make
I've resisted getting a dropper for all these years, I just never felt like I needed one. I'm installing one on my XC tomorrow, I hope I find it as 'essential' as everyone says they are! Great install video Doddy. The part about measuring the cable still isn't 100% clear, I assume you measured the 165mm down from the original 'frame' mark, and that 165mm amount was based on your dropper length inside the frame, but I'll make sure to measure multiple times before cutting.
I rode a bike with a dropper for the first time recently, they are game changing bit of kit
Thanks for explaining the cable. Other dropper post "experts" never mention it. Your video explaining things so clearly is unique and absolutely outstanding. New fan.
Got my hands on a Ragley Big Al 2.0 without dropper this year. Ordered a Brand X dropper from Chain Reaction Cycles and used your video to aid in my install. Thought I would not say the install was 'easy', your video really made my install relatively headache free. Was very careful every step of the way, especially cutting the cables, so your video was a huge help. Thanks!!
Found this vid useful. Good solution I used today to install brand x dropper post cable internally on my 2021 vitus hardtail is to feed a length of wool - yes wool - down thro the top hole in the downtube, put the hoover nozzle over the hole at the lower end of the downtube, which sucks out the wool. Tie a length of decent fishing line to end of the wool, tie other end of fishing line around the end of the outer cable, just below the ferule/end cover so it has something to grip, wrap tape around this to prevent the knot from snagging on the hole(s), making a conical shape so the end is streamlined for smooth egress from the top hole... feed the outer cable up the downtube, pulling the fishing line at the same time... Et Voila... the outer cable pops out the top hole and has been successfully routed internally thro the downtube. Wool works well as being light and 'fluffy' it catches the air better than string/bootlace etc which I also tried without success. The wool and hoover method worked first time for me. The outer cable then easily feeds up thro the hole at the back of the seat tube behind the bottom bracket on my bike - others may be different - the rest is straightforward, follow product instructions. A good spin on the bike followed with dropper post working well :-)
I used the wire cable itself as a guide. I inserted it first on the bike frame along with the remote lever and protruded it out of the seat tube. Next is I slide the housing cable into the wire cable that is already inside the bike frame thru the seat tube and up towards the routing coming outside of the downtube. And viola, the upper end of the housing will automatically fit to the remote lever as you pushed. Finally is setting the wire cable length with respect to the housing cable using the plastic piece protector that came with the droper post to fit to the engagement of the dropper. (Note: I did not cut my housing cable as I estimated the stock length is appropriate for my frame)
That cable routing tool is a great idea, but I needed one in a pinch so I knocked one up, used a small tie rod end from an RC car with a screw in it tied to a length of string and a magnet inside a sock (using a clean one is optional), then a paper clip to hook it once you're on the port, worked a charm and cost nothing!! Any questions gimme a shout!!
Mate you're on to something. Can you post a photo somehow?
@@danielbromley849 I can't post a photo unfortunately, basically you need to tie something made of a metal that the magnet will grab and small enough to fit through the ports to the string, pop it in the port, then cover a good strong magnet in fabric so as not to scratch the frame and pull the metal along to the exit port then hook it out, then back to where you went in, attach the loose end of the string to your cable outer with a couple of wraps of tape, it needs to be able to fit in the port, so not too much tape (good idea to put a knot in the string so it can't pull out from under the tape), pull the string through and the cable outer will follow, once that's in thread the cable inner through and the hard bit is done
As a former Tradesman this video was excellently done
Concise yet with all needed information 👏
Thank you Doddy 👍
I got a cheap one with the lever under the saddle. I have to take my hand off the bars but it's ok. So far I have no real issues with it. Clean cockpit.
It's worth to take into consideration your bike's water bottle fittings on the seat tube.
1:06 "Anywhere else" is a nice way to describe it.
That is a good looking bike your working on. I almost ordered one. Great color
Me as well. Went with commencal meta ht instead tho
@@lukerisser9163 what color i got the sand
@@skiiines same lol
I would die to have a shop that looks like that! All the tools match, clean and no son to make off with the wrench that i need the first time I need it. Great video. Thanks.
I am that son
as a complete noob a few years ago on a hardtail I knew the single most important upgrade was a dropper, that and tyres that grip and dont puncture by looking at them.
the reverb is more like "the mad king" of hydraulic posts
A catch with this specific model: 9:00 minute: when you stick the grey cylinder into the post you have to turn it clockwise to the limit (lock point) and only then tighten the black lockring, otherwise when the remote cable is in its released state the cable-side rotor gets to its most-clockwise position, but the seatpost-side rotor doesn't and the dropper doesn't lock completely.
Great! Thanks Doddy. Appreciate this but showing the cable routing technique without the cable tool would have been handy to. Its an expensive bit of kit that I’m not likely to use that often...
Hey Addsy, Find an old spoke and bend the end creating a hooked pick tool and then poke this into the cable exit hole. Feed the cable through until it passes through this and then pull it out. Hopefully this helps you 👍
1:38 actually a problem I had was the lack of information on the actual DEPTH of the seat post.
I have a Giant Faith 2010 and had to do a bit of manual measurement with the old seat post, dropping it as far as it would go, (which is actually not all that far in my frames case) to get the maximum depth, then measuring the old post at its highest ride height for me.. (109% etc) to get the maximum length overall that could fit...
Then it was just a case of finding the best drop I could get within that length... and there actually wasn't many options for my budget or even no price limit.. with factors like no internal cable routing option etc. due to the kink and pivot halfway down the seat post tube.
I went with a Zoom Tequilla (100mm drop) from the cheap range to make sure the calculations were right etc. I have about 20mm unused depth with it at the correct height... but if I really need it, I can always drop the body and run the day with a short max height, but gain the extra 20mm drop. (There wasn't a post that gave a better lower position without loosing upper, or bottoming out before the upper most position was at my riding height (which would have ment having to constantly adjust the seat to get the correct climp position rather than it just being set at full extension.
Due to the frame geometry, the exposed post to the seat is almost the same length as the depth from the top of the frame tube to the suspension pivot they ran through the center of the post tube to ensure it was impossible to get a longer post in.
What I need is a 2 stage telescopic post to get more than the 100mm but the design would have to be heavy to retain strength over the joints...
All adult males that attempt to make instructional and informational videos, this is the standard by which all others should be judged. NO bullshit, NO headbanger music, NO childish graphics, NO animated stupidity, just INFORMATION. Thank you GMBN Tech.
Great video, I like feed some lub. through a cable like you did but i have been told not to, been doing it for over 30 year with no problems so far and when some of the bikes i service are never kept indoors
Thanks for that. I'm planning on having a dropper post on my next paycheck, and I have absolutely no idea on how it will be installed. This video gave me insight on what to expect. Now I'm not doing any trails, but I live on an area with rough roads.
Glad it was helpful!
Raise your hand if you had to pull the cranks & BB to install a dropper cable & housing. Some bike makers really didn't think through this part of the design. (And I'm talking about a '20 Scott Spark, so not some ancient bike!)
🤚
Man how nice it would be to be able to pull that Park guide through all bikes!
Set up in my garage. Sure comes in handy. Works great
My buddy found a dropper from a company called brand-x he ordered it for $100 with free shipping it works great and it has 150mm of travel it’s actually good especially for the money
Man I could have done with this on Friday morning when I was fitting my new crank brothers dropper lol. All in and good now though 🙂
Thanks for the info I just replaced my cable and lever today but got carried away at the start and pulled the old cable and housing straight Out so I had to feed a piece of string with a bolt tied to the end through then tie and tape that to the new housing and pull it back
I've fitted a dropper post on my bike, I've also fitted a gas lift cylinder on an office chair. It seems to me they are basically the same thing.
5:55 here you go
Fkn thank YOU!!!
thanks bro
Can you do a how to mantain a dropper post pls ?
Totally excellent. This could not be more useful. Thanks a lot.
Good god I can't wait to install one. No more shouting "illll catchhh upp"
Or for anyone who cant afford a more modern bike and the specs are not available (my bike was made in 1999) is to use a venier caliper to measure the seat tube diameter.
I love the external routing, installing the Reverb on an internal routed frame must be freakin difficult.
Great Channel! You are my goto for Mountain Bike Setup! I am building a Carbon Scott Scale. My Question/ Concern is, I am adding a Dropper Seat and it requires a fully cased cable terminated under the Dropper itself and at the Control Lever of course. So First question is it ok to drill out the frame entry (Hard Plastic Grommet insert) to have fully cased cable from control to Dropper... Second Concern is Rear Derailleur enters frame "Typical" Left side... Dropper Control will be on the Left Bar and enter the frame "Typical" Right side... I feel like its going to result in an In-Frame cable crossing (Rubbing?), as the Scott has a bare interior cable setup for the rear Derailleur that exits "Right" side under Bottom Bracket! Left over to right! Dropper will be Right to, up the center Seat Tube of course? Whats your thoughts?
This is very useful thank you 😊
Thanks! 👍
"...Won't hit you in the stomach... or anywhere else... " 😂
Im having a heck of a time getting housing thru my frame without it shredding the outer housing up. Ruined the first one already. Gonna try a Jagwire Pro kit as it serms the outer housing is smaller diameter and more flexible
The holes at the bottom of each tube seems really sharp
Cable related stuff gives me the fear. 😬
It a bloody cable what the worst that happens?
@@YalikemyTigerBeat have you ever cut a cable to short with no spare? Horrific.
Good video but what if you cannot put the cable inside the frame and seat post?
Yeah I think I’m just going to bring it to a bike shop
@@boombachucongi5797 how did it go? 🤣
GMBN Tech can you do a video on the possibility of setting up a dropper post remote for a 2x setup?
Thanks I was able to fix my bike
Oneup has a 240mm dropper
Hi Doddy, dropper post is the upgrade i would do anytime .. but unfortunately .. got to wait a little bit more .. as the prices of the upgrades are out of my reach for now. Thank's for the video .. always a great help ;-)
Cheers !! ;-)
Thanks, very informative.
Can you do a video for bleeding sram guide brakes?
Step 1. Buy codes
@@baileydillon7809 that’s what i did
I want to fit a dropper post to wife's emtb. She finds it hard to get on and off with the seat at the right height for 'straight leg down' when pedalling. Have 20cm inside seat tube but need absolute minimum protruding above top of seat tube with dropper down. Getting info for available droppers is a nightmare!
Could you use a teflon coated cable instead or wouldn't it give you any benefit?
Great video as always!
Thanks Thomas👍
Really nice tutorial. Also, if you were not so advert oriented, you would use a Shimano TL-CT12 cable cutter that already comes with a pick to make sure the housing is opened up properly on both ends.
Hey Doddy, I recently mounted an RFR Pro dropper post on my hartail Cube Reaction hybrid. now I have read that There is a maximum rider weight recommended for this dropper. I am not a light weight rider myself and my own weight is sitting against the max weight of the dropper, which makes it not so pleasant, I am afraid that I can damage the dropper if I ride on it. I was wondering why I don't see this in any of the dropper videos? Is this something I should take seriously or just an indication? I wonder how many people have had any problems with this.
You didn’t show how tight the collar at the bottom is to take off out of the box. I gave up trying to unscrew my one when installing my dropper seat post.
But I like the crank brother seat post a lot better that the rock shox that came with my T-130s
You need to address the pain that is cabel management on a external dropper post. Excess amount of cabel close to rotating tiers.
Yes internal routing through the seat tube is much neater and keep the cable out of the way.
Very useful as always, thank you
That’s great, but how do you get it to work if the bottle cage mounts (without screws) block the seat tube halfway down?
Why does this seem so complicated
It is 😭😭😭
@@JinNani224 here here
I like lyric because it’s red,
I do not like whole wheat bread,
I don’t want to go to bed,
Maxxis assegais that I have had for about 2 weeks already have no tread,
Steven Jalopnik nice gotten from lil barnacle- porn 🙃🥴
I've read what you said.
Ooooh those Maxxis are dead.
Very helpful thanks 👍
Daddy, can you go over the cleaning and protecting of a matte finish?
Well son, you search on TH-cam for 'mtb fitting helicopter tape'. Yours, Daddy.
Is this man a robot?
I'm confused, instead of all this measuring can't you theoretically just insert the dropper with the cable and cable housing already ran through the bike and connected to the dropper, set it at the proper height for the way you ride , then pull the slack out at the top then just pull the cable tight and secure it at the lever?
That's what I did when my bike was delivered with the cable all squashed in the bottom.
I’d recommend soldering the end of the cable to prevent fraying instead of crimping. If done cleanly you can pull the cable out without cutting or prying the crimp off which WILL damage the cable requiring replacement
Have you actually managed get this to work on modern cables and housing? It used to be common back in the days before cables were stainless and housing had a PTFE liner Solder Wire. We have tried this with a sanded Galvanised inner but had pretty poor results. It's also hard to get Solder with Lead in it now in England.
Might be cause we still have lead based solder and I use cheaper non-ptfe cables, mainly cause they lube better in the long run
Use super glue for this instead of solder. On a pre-existing install, if you know you are going to be removing the cable and want to try and salvage it, super glue it just above the crimped on crimp thingie a day before you need to remove it. Now you can cleanly cut the cable and it won't fray.
next video: how to get rid off the annoying wobbeling of dropper post´s!
You can't
Well, what should I do, when I cannot put cables through the frame, as there are no holes?
How you pot the cable on the housing
Did you just crimp the end cap with needle nose pliers even though you clearly have actual crimpers that are made for the job on your wire cutters?
doesn't matter at all.
Tryinglittleleg the crimpers will do a cleaner and better job every time. Also, worth mentioning in case they don’t actually realise their wire cutters have the crimpers...
I think I’ll just get a quick release
great video, thanks
What is the best and affordable dropper seat post for allow frames?
What about external cable dropper posts? Some older frames just dont have internal rounting.
Hey, you can get still get external dropper posts.
I just drilled a hole in my frame...
After installing this would it be easy to pull apart and add to put on another bike?
What could be the reason when an dropper post dosen´t come up on it´s on? Could it be the cable tension or is it more likely the cartridge
If you can pull it up while actuated, it's probably the cartridge.
Where can I find the internal routing assisting tool?
This tutorial is good but made with an easy to mount seatpost my sdg tellis is a pain in the ass to reinstall because my cable was too long and now everytime i pull the lever the cable either loosens or the cable dislodges from the seatpost :/
Thnxxx man
I heard the custom drop post that dont come standard sometimes get or are a bit loose, leading the post/seat to rattle? Is should this be this case once installed?
I have a specialized stunt jumper 2009 there is no hole for the dropper cable to go threw would i need to drill one
What if your bike doesn't have internal cable routing?
...then get a dropper post with external cable. There are plenty.
Should the dropper have some air? Since my Fox dropper has a little bit so I don't know if this is normal or should I service it?
8:22 so do you just push the wire cable through the housing? Will it go around that sharp bottom turn?? @gmbn
First, love the hardtail
🏆 Thanks 👍
Are cable routing grommets universal? Or will I need to get them from the manufacturer's (Whyte in my case) site?
I’m disappointed Doddy. Your opinion of Rockshox Reverb as the best dropper IS NOT SHARED BY REAL MTBEERS🍺🙏🔑✌️
My bike came with a dropper post but its little bit high for me, can I loosen the clamp and lower it without messing up any adjustments on the lever?
I plan on getting one but I'm confused on price, I really don't want to pay 350 for one but don't want to waste money on a rubbish £50 ,any advice ?
Did he just undo that bolt with a torque wrench. @11:07
It looks like he’s tightening it
Can I move my dropper post down after the cables are cut/adjusted etc?
I don’t have holes in my frame for the cable how do I do this? I have a gt avalanche elite 2016
so he has an internal cable routing system on his bike . your bike sounds like it is external so make sure you order a external dropper.
See th-cam.com/video/XgKmXv1CQcg/w-d-xo.html
My 400mm bizango seat post can drop 250mm into the tube. Would I be able to fit a 170mm dropper (274mm insert including actuator) with 30mm left below the collar? So 244mm inserted in the frame. Just curious as the measurements say yes yet I've read someone saying you can't even fit a 150mm post. Maybe they're just assuming a full insert.
The bike is solid and my Ebike conversion went great. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Very smooth ride at 30mph with no problems (135 miles ridden so far). The picture is a bit deceiving - there is WAY less space in the center of the frame than it shows. The suspension connection takes up the entire thing. So I needed to attach my battery on the bottom of the frame and my controller on the top. Instructions for assembly were lacking but honestly it wasn't too hard to figure out even though I have very little bike knowledge. Watched some youtube videos on adjusting the disk brakes but that was it. Still, I am loving it and very happy with the purchase.
How forceful is the post when extending?
I liked this video just because of Blake’s Nukeproof... 😁😁😁😁😎😎😎😎😎
Yeahh naahh im getting it fit in my local bike shop 😅I can’t trust myself to do this
Help... Can you hang your bike from under the seat on your car rack with a dropper post fully extended? My bike is small and only one arm can go through the frame the other allways attached to the seat post but now I have a dropper...What to do beside getting new platform rack?
Hi there I have bought a brand new bike around a mouth ago I have used it today at a bike park for the first time I have rode it in the past by only on small trails, now my cable dropper post will not stay lock down it keep rising up by its self and the lever for the post feels stiff, is there any Advice you can give for me to fix it thank you
where do u get those tubs of ferrules and end caps
Help! I can’t get the Park Tool assembly paste for love nor money and can’t seem to find an alternative in the UK. Just got a 200mm dropper but don’t want to instal it and over tighten so is there any other assembly grease for ali frames as I don’t want to fit my £160 dropper only to over tighten it on the first attempt.
Does the dropper post come with the cables?
depends what you get
what are the benefits of hydraulic operated posts?
what are the disadvantages?
No advantages really and they're unreliable.
They fail and need to be sent in for service.
Oh yea, advantages .. uhhh... hmmm... can’t think of any.
The biggest advantage of hydraulic posts is that you get to purchase a $60 bleed kit and bleed the system each time it is installed. The second advantage is you get to send it in for an expensive repair after half a season. But at least you already own a bleed kit when you get the post back two months later. A third advantage is you end up buying a cheaper dropper post the second time you send it in for repair. Then realize that the cheaper cable actuated dropper post works really well and wonder why you paid over $600 for the hydraulic seat post that comes with the worst push button design.
Yeah, if you don't own a hydraulic dropper post you are missing out.
@@newttella1043 Hahaha exactly!
On a more serious note, they don’t suffer from friction issues on frames with tight bends.