Menswear in The Gilded Age (HBO) - 1880s New York City - Correct or not?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I'm comparing the classic menswear worn in the new TV show The Gilded Age (HBO) to museum pieces and fashion plates of the time. Is the show correct or not? It takes place in the 1880s in New York City.
Image copyright of the show footage belongs to Universal Television.
See below for the copyrights of all the reference images.
Music by ANBR
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Image references from the video (and beyond):
MET Museum
www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
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LACMA
collections.lacma.org/node/17...
collections.lacma.org/node/22...
collections.lacma.org/node/22...
collections.lacma.org/node/23...
collections.lacma.org/node/22...
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Library of Congress (fashion plates)
www.loc.gov/pictures/item/200...
www.loc.gov/pictures/item/955...
www.loc.gov/resource/ppmsca.4...
Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
0:43 Coats, coats, coats
2:20 Blazers
3:25 Waistcoats
4:12 Hats
6:01 Neckwear
7:12 Conclusion - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I was the manager, and one of the musicians, of the Newport, RI orchestra, and a consultant for the Troy, NY orchestra. You'll see the Troy, NY orchestra in an upcoming mid-season episode, and the Newport orchestra in the season finale. We took extraordinary efforts to ensure that the on-screen musical aspects of the series were historically accurate to 1882, but wardrobe did not ultimately not concede to our request to have the violin and viola rests under the jacket, as was traditional at the time. If you look closely you'll see them resting on top of the shoulders. Having the left shoulder higher than the right would not have looked pleasing, so we did sacrifice tiny bit of historical accuracy to look better. A few other rotatable items about the musician's formal attire: (1) A shoelace is hard to find, as most of the shoes we wore had buttons; (2) the black waistcoats are all different, as are the detachable collar styles, and the bow ties., (3) It was almost impossible to dress ourselves, so we needed assistance; and (4) I was told that most of the men's formal attire was handmade in Budapest. Enjoy The Gilded Age!
I am a cellist myself and I was very impressed by the quality and accuracy of the depictions of the musical performances in the show - it is obvious that a lot of care and attention went into it! It is so refreshing to see justice done to period playing and styles. Thank you so much for the work you all did; it definitely elevated the experience for me (and many others, I assume)!
I worked on Season one and am about to go back to Troy to work on season 2! Great show. Great costumers! A lot of attention to detail. Nit picking.
What I absolutely adore about that 19th century is that the moustaches and facial hair was more experimental and majestic, the vents on the coats, absolutely stays the same. From the tailcoats from regency era, the Frock coats from the American civil war era to Edwardian. And still there on evening tailcoat and a morning suit till today. Those vents are my most favourite type, 10/10 would wear a morning suit, frock coats on a daily business events If I were to grow up or become a rich business man.
I believe that the rear vent on the back of frock and tail coats is called a 'hock vent'
@@gecfes Thanks for the information! I think google does not show the right pictures for what I searched.
@@keshavrao212 Yeah, unfortunately the hock vent is very obscure and hasn't been in style since probably a hundred years ago. The only source I have that documents the name 'hock vent' is the Gentleman's Gazette white tie guide.
The morning suit is still the prescribed attire for formal weddings in the morning/early afternoon. However I have not seen one in years as bridegrooms seem to prefer tuxedos which are supposed to be worn after five pm.
Always loved the vents, which is part of what got me into 19th century menswear instead of early 20th century as most "vintage menswear" enjoyers seem to go for
quite positively surprising how well they have done their research! Seems like our complaints for more adequate costumes have been heard!
Of course, it's HBO, they never disappoint.
@@samanthawho9591 well the creator of the show is julian fellowes, who created downton abbey which got rave reviews on its costuming. it's no wonder.
There was something about the menswear at that time, that made the men look incredibly well dressed. I don't know, if it's the style or the sumptuous fabrics (probably both), but everyone just looked so sharp and well groomed.
it’s cause they’re rich. working class fashion rarely gets any attention
@@mikeymullins5305
True. I mean, the information is out there, but you gotta be part of the historical costuming community, to be aware of it, pretty much. It's not exactly a wildely discussed subject.
Which you probably are? Because otherwise I'm happy to share some sources.
That being said ... the fact that clothing was tailored to the individual, rather then 'off the rack' was certainly also a factor. Even for the less wealthy. I mean, society, even at that time wasn't only obscenely rich and extremely poor people. Skilled craftspeople and shopkeepers and lawyers and teachers would also strive to look neat and respectable at all times.
Even farmers and servants would have their 'sunday best'. Because being well dressed (or as well as you could), was incredibly important to people. Unlike today, where most people dress less well, then they could afford, actually.
So 💯 true they had class sophistication and took time and effort in there appearance now the men covered in tattoos and ill fitting clothes more like buffoon then a gentleman
@@raraavis7782 And keep in mind even though theyhad their "sunday best", their clothes, up to the 60s are made to resemble or ARE suits, and suits in general are considered foal to us now.
The dressing gown, shirt and detachable collar I'm wearing in the video were made according to my sewing book. You can order it (including pattern sheets) here: vintagebursche.de/sewing-vintage-menswear/?lang=en (unsere deutsche Version, gibt es sogar als richtiges Buch mit gedruckten Schnittmusterbögen vintagebursche.de/shop/)
The waistcoat was bought at Simon James Cathcart. You can find this and other shops in my list of shops and brands here: vintagebursche.de/shops-and-brands
Please do more of these videos. We dont usually see costume reviews that focus on mens fashion in period dramas. Loving the content so far!
I think it would be really fun if you made a video about frock coats and how you like to wear them, but also what was standard back in the victorian/edwardian era. And this was another great video!
I'll probably make a Victorian lookbook at some point.
@@VintageburscheHope to see it sometime, special interest in the 1860s-70s personally!
I know this video is about menswear but can we talk about Bertha's dress with the tulle? Powder blue? Pumpkin orange? Bias stripes??? It is batshit and I LOVE IT.
This was GREAT!
Thank You! As always very informative and a grat place to start digging into the topic. Your channel is a huge help when it comes to men's wear or masculine-inspired vintage outfits (and tha's what I am trying to aim for with my wardrobe).
Finally! Someone interested in historical menswear, I’ve been waiting for someone like you
Ok I am LIVING for that straw top hat example you showed
It is pleasure to watch this series , the style was truly amazing .
Your videos are always full of awesome information. Thanks :)
Love your style!! It’s amazing 😍
!!! I'm so happy whenever I see you've released a new upload !! ! aaaah!
I very much enjoyed this video. Very informative. I believe that all your observations are spot-on. Thank you for this.
This has fast become my favourite channel
Thank you for this review. I have not yet see the show but this will help my appreciation of it enourmously. I always enjoy your videos.
I was waiting for this!
Really like this video! Although I think that the „introduction compilation“ for each chapter would be better if it featured examples of the show with whatever you‘ll be discussing, like pictures of the hats, when you’re about to discuss hats, rather than always repeating the same pictures
There was not enough footage of the show for that.
@@Vintagebursche hey do you know anyone to make cloth of late 1800 or 1920 suit/ clothing in chicago if not can point in right direction?
Here in Peru we call (or used to call because almost nobody wears them) staw boater hats "Saritas", apprently because French actress Sara Bernhardt came to Peru and she wore them all the time. It's not a general Spanish term just in Perú. The genreral term is Canotier or Gondolero.
I think the straw cowboy hat is more akin to a straw version of a Homburg hat by the dents and the turned up style of the brim.
Thank you for this! I am very intrigued, but it's always a plus when the research is on point. One can hope there will be more color for the men's fashion as the show progresses (or rather, beyond the little bits from the trailer).
Really enjoyed the information provided,
Men's vintage fashion is so incredibly beautiful and masculine. I love your channel!! You are a great inspiration to me, Vintagebursche! Plus you are very handsome!
Just discovered your channel! I love it. Tolles Video!
I love your videos!
This was so interesting!
I've been watching Gilded Age HBO every week like when I'm anticipating it every single day. TH-cam recommendation shows this. I thank you and the algorithm.
My favourite youtube channel ❤
Großartiges Video :) thanks for uploading your work
Great video, thank you!
Oscar van Rhijn = Classiest character on Guilded Age!
I absolutely love this video. Maybe think about doing vintage work wear!
All in due time. TH-cam is just a hobby.
The more square shoulders are probably to make the men look more masculine to the modern eye. They always seem to do this, especially with main characters.
Yes, that’s exactly why they do it. Modern men are shaped differently, as are modern women who have much wider waists. Modern men generally have broader shoulders and more developed chests. We find ‘wine bottle’ shoulders unappealing in men. I just wonder how often they laundered their clothes, the materials were mostly unwashable.
@@tommoncrieff1154 the bodies are the same, the padding is added following the "beauty standards " of the day. The women's waists weren't smaller, they wore hip padding and bust padding to create the illusion. Just like modern menswear has shoulder padding and period men's wear didn't. Because broad shoulders indicated that you did manual labour so were not upper class.
@@lenabreijer1311 Oh, cool! I remember the broad shoulders = working-class thing from a post trying to reconstruct Mr. Darcy according to upper-class Regency beauty standards for men.
@@tommoncrieff1154 The suits were aired, brushed and spot cleaned. The fabric was not in contact with body oils. the totally washable chemises, shifts, shirts and underwear protected the outer clothing.
Appreciate your video very much. Would you also be able to do a video on mens accessories too? I noticed quite a few of these in this series. Thank you
I’m so pleased you noticed the shoulders
Late Victorian men's clothing! Now we're talking! I agree the shoulders on the frock coats look a bit whack, but the rest seems spot on to me. I'll have to check it out.
Great video!
From what I've seen, they did make some mistakes with the menswear (many were definitely not in the style of the 1880's...)
Oh and I think you'll find the straw hat you talked about to be an early style of a homburg hat. (Late 1880's - 1890's)
Dude!!! First! Never been this early to a video before 🤩🤩
Love ur videos. ^-^
That straw "cowboy hat" fits the character. Men were expected to wear hats, straw was de rigeur for Newport ... so he shows up in a ratty straw cowboy hat. Following the rules and breaking them.
Here's one in a painting ... they were widely used. Stetson's original hat was introduced in 1865.
Frederic Remington | The Sentinel | 1889 |
Fantastic video! I hope it is fine if I inquire about the tie knot of your Ascot tie as well. I am very fascinated by it, as I have only known 2 ways of tying it before, yet this one looks so elegant.
It's basically just draped and then pinned down. This makes it look rather clean.
@@Vintagebursche oh, very interesting. Thank you!
Can you do a video on different types of shoulder construction through history 👀
Intro music: Seasons - Immaterial - ANBR Adrian Berenguer.
Buonasera mi sono iscritta da poco al suo canale e trovo interessante il punto di vista maschile di quell' epoca. I video sono fatti bene ma decisamente devo imparare l inglese : ciò che dice lo intuisco anche guardando le didascalie. Al prossimo video e complimenti
THANK YOU - that was interesting...
If you are interested in a truly authentic movie when it comes to historical fashion, you should check out the movie "The Lighthouse" from 2019. The outfit design is arguably the most historically accurate when it comes to 1890s - 1910s workman wear or just historical fashion in general. They get everything correct, even down to the underwear and the button placements on the trousers.
I wonder what the people from that era would say if they would see how we all dress today.
During the Ivy League meetup scene with the worsted wool garment another character is sporting very unique red sunglasses. Do you have any info on them or even a place that might sell something similar to them ?
What is the name of the servants' blue and gold blazer?
As a fellow appreciator of the finest of music... Metal. Any chance of a vid on how you would "tastefully" approach a vintage "corporate goth" aesthetic (Victorian through to 1940's is my preferred periods).
My long hair is going nowhere, but I find modern suits are often rather bland. Atm my favourite office look is a dark charcoal (dark enough for my taste without being truly black) 3 piece suit with peak lapels worn with a white pocket square with burgundy a trim, that ties into my white shirt and bugundy tie worn with oxblood leathers (shoes, watchstrap, belt). Though I am tempted to get one of those "banker" English double breasted pinstripe or chalkstripe suits in black. I know that black is "too formal" in most peoples eyes, But from what I've looked into, I have the hair colour and skin tone to pull it off, Plus I feel that the pinstripe reduced its formality to business attire.
I have managed to avoid the (imo) rather tacky "all black everything" most goths and metalheads seems to fall into, and the even tackier dark red shirt with all black everything else (I know I'm one to talk with my choice of burgundy and oxblood, but wearing dark red as a shirt with a suit is just cheesy looking to me, and I just don't like wearing brown). But I'd like to expand my looks by dipping into vintage.
Just do as I do...deep mourning 24/7. Fuck what everyone says.
@@adaeverleigh9584 You think I want to do this because of what random people say? I'm doing this for myself. Go take your "deep mourning" try hard edgelord nonsense elsewhere.
I love your videos. As you can tell from my picture I’m am not a sharp dresser. But I a picture of my 2nd Great Grandfather wearing a hat that I don’t seem to find anywhere. He had come to the US around 1870 from Dorndorf Bavaria. I love hats and would love to find one like it. If you wouldn’t mind taking a look at it, how could I post a picture where you might see and identify it for me. Thank you.
There are online services for that, but it would probably be quicker and easier, to make a 20 sek video with your phone and upload it to your own TH-cam channel.
Especially since TH-cam doesn't like it, when people leave links to outside sources and will often just delete such comments.
I've seen some paintings of that time period/region and the fashion (and especially the hats) were quite unique, indeed.
How do I get clothes like this?
Could you please make a video about the alienist?
The mostly muted colors for the male characters might also have to do with their roles. Most of the guys with prominent roles are connected to business or respectable positions (or wanting to achieve those) so the dark colors help to give them a more austere look. I am curious though, if the lawyer fellow (who‘s name I have forgotten) starts to dress more flashy as he gets more and more entangled in society. It would be a great way to visualize his character development.
Your comment on the trousers, please!
I guess I have to watch the whole season and wait for more published pictures to make another video about all the details and things I couldn't really see yet.
Winston Churchill, wore a high bowler didn't he ? Even more squared ?
Can i mix Steampunk style clothing with Gatsby style ?
Hallo Vintagebursche,
darf ich zum Thema Kragen darauf verweisen, dass ich ein Foto eines Mannes in 1857 mit exakt einem dieser „modernen“ Kragen gefunden habe? Es ist ein Digitalisat des Hessischen Landesarchivs und kann im Internet auf der Website Arcynsis gefunden werden unter folgender Signatur:
HStAM (Hessisches Staatsarchiv Marburg) Bestand 340 Grimm Nr. B 209
Viele Grüße und tolles Video!
Today ONLY mostly time wears the Chimneysweeper ( Schornsteinfeger)
Like hole all Chimneysweeper in my Family
Modern movies/TV shows tend to sanitize historical fashion. Sure, the actors and actresses in this series look like fashion plates, but at that time most of the rich were not all that attractive and often overweight. In that era few roads and paths were paved which means clothing and certainly shoes soon became dusty or muddy from crossing streets or just climbing into or out of a carriage. Even upper class men and women had to be mindful of their step with all those horses doing what came naturally. In fact, major cities like London and New York City were experiencing major sanitation crises at the turn of the 20th century due to hundreds of thousands of horses. The arrival of the automobile in the early 1900s changed all of that.
*I HAVE JUST BEEN MAKING* some trousers from JP Thorntons 1890 pattern drafting book... Just FYI details below.
The side seams sweep forward in this period, there is no break and they are quite short in the leg, the bottoms are finished with an "S" so the backs are 1.5" lower than the front. Grown on or "Hollywood" waistband was usual and no pleats. Fish tail backs and high waist. This can all be seen in the plate at 1:30
Going to look for that book now. Is it easy to translate the patterns? I have some experience altering printed patterns and, occasionally drafting my own, but not copying from a book.
It could be a straw homburg or an straw Anthony Eden
back when everyone was completely covered where now days you can show any body part. fashion has changed drastically
give me the exact year the show is set but the spread collar id say is innacurate afore 1893 but the red binding could have been there, why in 1830 even. ive checked out allt he metropolitan museum of art fashion plates online
Where did you get the Ascot from?
Made it myself.
@@Vintagebursche well it looks absolutely amazing
It looks like some of the men were wearing a white "Undervest(?)" Were multiple waistcoats common? It seems like they would feel very bulky.
Good point! That's actually a "waistcoat slip". Two pieces of contrasting fabric buttoned to the waistcoat neckline from the inside. It adds another layer to the outfit, but it has no practical purpose.
@@Vintagebursche Thanks! That's really interesting.
Movies have budgets, limited time, and a limited life. Costumes often come from rental houses and mens coats work for many time periods. Or, those coats were ordered from the people who also make rental tuxedos. The sourcing can mean modern construction cause 98% of viewers have no clue.
There’s also panicked cobbling of things when a piece is missing or doesn’t fit, like putting trim on a department store shirt collar? There’s a story to that shirt.
They don’t always have time and money to do every detail right, but this show looks good!
That "cowboy hat" does not look right at all.
Thank you for your video, very interesting. I have an old picture from near that time....the man had rounded collar and not pointed ends. Perhaps this came later? I don't know.
Bowler vs Derby, what are the differences, yea? I was expecting you to say Derby hat, yea? "EVERY WISH FULFILLED" E.T.
1900’s Men with beard/mustache are hot!
I think the film The Age of Innocence is also quite accurate.
Isn't the straw hat a Panama hat? Maybe picked up while he was in Europe
Look home boy. There was not a thing wrong with any of these costumes. All the work that went into making these costumes or wherever they came from collected or made, they were the best. I don't know how the customer designer lost out to the costumes of Briderton. There was no comparison.
I have found that people complain rather than compliment people's hard work. Who really cares about all the so-called accuracy. The costumes were spot-on and beautiful.
But sadly I cannot get my husband to dress up with me 😞
Except we English call it a cravat.
Men's wear in the Gilded Age...🙄😶
?
The women's costumes in this show are horrendous.
Completely. It's a big mess, always approximative (in the best cases), often inaccurate.
Most boring era of menswear in history 🕴️😴 Formal menswear is unfortunately still the same 🐑
I would agree to disagree. At this point in time, austere formal dress codes were not fully set in stone like they are now. This allowed for unique lapel designs, waistcoats, and colors, patterns, and piping. Contemporary formalwear is exceedingly cookie cutter and non-imaginative. Formal wear has come a long way since the Regency and even farther back with fits, changed trousers and jacket designs. It's unfortunate that people like you deny these facts lol