Exactly what I was looking for sir, thanks!!! Instructions using the shunt have been hard to find. I don't really care if the voltage on these cheap meters are off a little. I just need to see when they're getting low and how many amps are being pulled. Good Job!
Thank you for the video! I have what I think it the 10A version of this meter (it does not have an external shunt and the wires are very thin but okay for low current probably - they look about 18AWG ). I’m trying to figure out, with the model that you have, what size or gauge connection wires does it come with? I’m using mostly 12AWG on my solar charger and load to support between 10A to 15A current.
Thanks for your interested! To tell the truth, the thick wires (Red & Black) are supplied with mini meter together: I'm not exactly sure their size but I reckon they are either 11AWG or 10AWG. In your case for safety reason, you would be better off using double 12AWG, just in case. 👍
@@diymade2175 hi! Oh wow 10 or 12awg is pretty darn thick compared to my little 10am model. I’m glad to hear * that there is a difference. Was thinking such strong currents could not pass through this the wires on mine. I will definitely try finding your version. So far I can only find one with a red and blue display. I might have to attempt to swap out the display with a blue and green one. 😆
Thanks for your comment! Certainly there are a few different versions of mini meters, your meter's wires could have been the one of the strongest ones although they looked a bit of thin. Experiences yourself to find out they are good or not & playing safe!. 😐
Bro i have a same meter like yours but there is a build in 10a shunt inside the meter so my question is do i need to remove that Internal 10a shunt or just leave it to make like yours?
Good question Mate. Well, for the accuracy of the meter's indication you need to remove that internal 10a shunt however for the convenience of operation & less trouble involved, just leave it as it is but bearing in mind: If you leave it then connected with a 100A shunt as the same way in the video showed, the meter will indicate the current which is a bit less than the actual current (for example: Meter's indication is 6A then the actual current will be approximately 6.6A, indication = 30A so real current will be approximately 33A etc). Thanks for your interested and enjoying experiences!
Hi. I bought exactly the same unit for running on my car? I was originally going to use on my car as my alternator puts out a lot less than 100 amps? But if I hook up to battery? As Cold cranking amps are quite high. Can I connect to the alternator? I would love to connect to the battery just to monitor voltage and current? Btw when I start the car ? It shows max of 30 amps with an expensive Current Ammeter? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia 🙂👍👍👍
Here are some of my thought, they might answer you. Theoretical speaking, a DC 100V/100A mini-digital meter can do the job you want it to do however in practical operation, it is not easy to do: the meter has to be connected to a car's alternator side as you have known, it wouldn't be easy to get there with the meter & its shunt together because of limited space in car's engine bay. general speaking, the bigger car the larger cold cranking amperes, it might be well over 100 amperes for your car, in this case it would be over the meter limitation. Any connected points such as bolts & nuts for alternator, battery terminal and cables must be in very good contacted otherwise you'll get a false meter reading. Last, about your "max of 30 amps with an expensive Current Ammeter", I reckon it must not have had good connection or cables is not thick enough if that meter is not at fault. Good luck with your experience & Thanks !
@@diymade2175 hi. The ammeter is only used to test charging of Alternator. But cranking amps are very high. It's a jaycar electronics 1000 amp ammeter. Cheers
No, no need to upgrade the tiny wires you mentioned because those thin, tiny wires are for the meter's power supply wires which their working current are less than 20 mA. Thanks for your interested!
Yes (I mean you could get some reading), you could but accuracy??? Remember this is DC Voltage & Current Meter, however car amplifier output is Audio AC which its frequency is much higher than 50 - 60 Hz so I wouldn't use this meter for reading an amplifier output ! Thanks for your interested.
@@harshbhangu8273 Well, I do not suppose you've connected the Meter from inside car's alternator, right? If you've connected the meter between the outside alternator and battery, "the Meter measures DC voltage & Current". Although the charging voltage & current might be changing, they were DC Voltage & Current. Thanks.
This min digital device is able to measure DC Max 100A & DC 0 - 100V, for DC 60mV = 0.06V which can not be measured due to the device is only decimal arithmetic. Thanks for your interested !
If i connected the shunt between battery negative and body (my car is body grounded) and connected the ammeter, will it work? Can it withstand with the current drawn by selfmotor? Will the shunt allow to flow that much current for starter and all ? Or it be a problem which shunt being the weaker link in the line and blows off?
I love your question, Mate! Yes & No!!! This DC mini digital meter's limitation: Max 100V & 100A which it can only withstand! it will be okay for starting current from motorcycles or mini cars however for other cars' starting current can be range of 100 to 250A in the most cases, so it'd be highly likewise to blow off the meter & shunt. Incidentally speaking, the way of mini meter & shunt connected in the video showed must be seen as whole thing then to connect it to whatever the circuit is. Good luck! 👍
@@diymade2175 so i have to connect the shunt after the starter, but how can i connect the shunt in a positive line, in the video shunt goes in the negative. As all my electrical equipments are grounded to body where can i connect the shunt? Or better to connect in the alternator line?
@@arunck5779 Theoretically speaking, you can connect it in either ways: In the alternator line or after the starter however in your case, to connect in the alternator line would be challenging & cause some troubles in the practical situation. It will be better to connect it after the starter: (1) Disconnecting negative(-) terminal cable from your car's battery. (2) Connecting Shunt's one end (Thick Black Wire connected from the mini meter) to car's battery negative(-) terminal, of course you have to use a suitable cable which can withstand starting current such as a jumper lead. (3) Connecting Shunt's other end (Thick Red Wire connected from the mini meter) to car's body or the Black cable that you disconnected from battery negative terminal for seconds ago, again by using another jumper lead as you wish. That's it, then start your car and good luck & enjoy! 👍
Thanks for asking. For my own interested, I did a few tests regarding the accuracy just after this video produced. To my surprise, it was accurate cross the range (To Max 80A I tested) except under 0.5A (under 500mA but it was still less than 20% variation). Incidentally make sure a shunt''s end of connection are in excellent condition & Mini Digital Meter's power supply in good condition as well. Enjoying your experience!
Thanks for this question! For safe measurement, disconnect panels from main circuit. If your panels output vantage is under DC 30 V (the most panels are, you can identify this from the panel's back sticker), connecting DC meter's thin Red, Yellow Wires and Thick Red Wire together to the Panels Red Wire then connecting DC Meter's Thick Black Wire to the Panel's Other Wire (in the most cases, this wire is Blue in colour also be sure Meter and its Shunt have a good connection). That's it. Now the DC Meter should be showing Panels voltage & current. Incidentally beware - beware, when second time connected to the panel's wire, the electric spark would be produced! Good luck and enjoy your experience.
Thank you for the interested! DC 4 - 30 V is the range of Mini Digital Vol & Amp Meter's supply voltage: In order to let the Meter work, it needs to have a DC power given (such as DC 5 V, 9 V, 15V, 24 V & Max 30 V etc). On the other hand, DC 100 V & 100 A are Max voltage and current that Meter can measure for the practical circuit in use for example: You have a DC motor with max 72 V & 12 A capacity, then using the Meter in the video showed to measure or monitor that motor's running Voltage and Amperes. Cheers 👍
I prepare a box for shunt and meter, but accidentaly ı short circuit shunt itself, right now ı give right connetion, leds are working but no amper show. I dont have big load to test ı prepare home and supposed to field . now shunt burn ? because rightnow lights are work@@diymade2175
@@diymade2175 Thanks. Found out that there are slight variations to these devices. On closer inspection mine has the white sockets on slightly different locations. But the cables are all the same. On mine I had to connect the shunt to the thin black and yellow, and skip the thick black. This is confusing but now working...
Exactly what I was looking for sir, thanks!!! Instructions using the shunt have been hard to find. I don't really care if the voltage on these cheap meters are off a little. I just need to see when they're getting low and how many amps are being pulled. Good Job!
Glad it helped. Thanks! 👍
So much grateful to you sir, my ammeter was not working then I saw your video and realized that negative should not be connected thanks again
Glad it helped. Cheers! 👍
Another mad video without any voice or text.
Thanks for your comment but text has been there for every video. Enjoying to play with your device!
This video is perfect!
So clear .. thanks sir
Thanks! Always welcome.
Thank you for the video! I have what I think it the 10A version of this meter (it does not have an external shunt and the wires are very thin but okay for low current probably - they look about 18AWG ).
I’m trying to figure out, with the model that you have, what size or gauge connection wires does it come with? I’m using mostly 12AWG on my solar charger and load to support between 10A to 15A current.
Thanks for your interested! To tell the truth, the thick wires (Red & Black) are supplied with mini meter together: I'm not exactly sure their size but I reckon they are either 11AWG or 10AWG. In your case for safety reason, you would be better off using double 12AWG, just in case. 👍
@@diymade2175 hi! Oh wow 10 or 12awg is pretty darn thick compared to my little 10am model. I’m glad to hear * that there is a difference. Was thinking such strong currents could not pass through this the wires on mine. I will definitely try finding your version. So far I can only find one with a red and blue display. I might have to attempt to swap out the display with a blue and green one. 😆
Thanks for your comment! Certainly there are a few different versions of mini meters, your meter's wires could have been the one of the strongest ones although they looked a bit of thin. Experiences yourself to find out they are good or not & playing safe!. 😐
Bro i have a same meter like yours but there is a build in 10a shunt inside the meter so my question is do i need to remove that Internal 10a shunt or just leave it to make like yours?
Good question Mate. Well, for the accuracy of the meter's indication you need to remove that internal 10a shunt however for the convenience of operation & less trouble involved, just leave it as it is but bearing in mind: If you leave it then connected with a 100A shunt as the same way in the video showed, the meter will indicate the current which is a bit less than the actual current (for example: Meter's indication is 6A then the actual current will be approximately 6.6A, indication = 30A so real current will be approximately 33A etc). Thanks for your interested and enjoying experiences!
Hi. I bought exactly the same unit for running on my car? I was originally going to use on my car as my alternator puts out a lot less than 100 amps? But if I hook up to battery? As Cold cranking amps are quite high. Can I connect to the alternator? I would love to connect to the battery just to monitor voltage and current? Btw when I start the car ? It shows max of 30 amps with an expensive Current Ammeter? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia 🙂👍👍👍
Here are some of my thought, they might answer you. Theoretical speaking, a DC 100V/100A mini-digital meter can do the job you want it to do however in practical operation, it is not easy to do: the meter has to be connected to a car's alternator side as you have known, it wouldn't be easy to get there with the meter & its shunt together because of limited space in car's engine bay. general speaking, the bigger car the larger cold cranking amperes, it might be well over 100 amperes for your car, in this case it would be over the meter limitation. Any connected points such as bolts & nuts for alternator, battery terminal and cables must be in very good contacted otherwise you'll get a false meter reading.
Last, about your "max of 30 amps with an expensive Current Ammeter", I reckon it must not have had good connection or cables is not thick enough if that meter is not at fault.
Good luck with your experience & Thanks !
@@diymade2175 hi. The ammeter is only used to test charging of Alternator. But cranking amps are very high. It's a jaycar electronics 1000 amp ammeter. Cheers
रेट क्या है इसका 100 वोल्ट 100 अंपायर
Thanks
you're welcome!
100volt please
how are those tiny wires going to handle like 30 A??
I feel like wires also need to be upgraded for this to work properly
No, no need to upgrade the tiny wires you mentioned because those thin, tiny wires are for the meter's power supply wires which their working current are less than 20 mA. Thanks for your interested!
Hi. Can I use this multi meter for reading car amplifier voltage and amps?
Yes (I mean you could get some reading), you could but accuracy??? Remember this is DC Voltage & Current Meter, however car amplifier output is Audio AC which its frequency is much higher than 50 - 60 Hz so I wouldn't use this meter for reading an amplifier output ! Thanks for your interested.
@@diymade2175 okay, but i car still use it for measuring alternator current right?
@@harshbhangu8273 Well, I do not suppose you've connected the Meter from inside car's alternator, right? If you've connected the meter between the outside alternator and battery, "the Meter measures DC voltage & Current". Although the charging voltage & current might be changing, they were DC Voltage & Current. Thanks.
Selam şönt direnç 250A 60mv uygun olur mu? Teşekkürler
This min digital device is able to measure DC Max 100A & DC 0 - 100V, for DC 60mV = 0.06V which can not be measured due to the device is only decimal arithmetic. Thanks for your interested !
@@diymade2175 teşekkür ederim
If i connected the shunt between battery negative and body (my car is body grounded) and connected the ammeter, will it work? Can it withstand with the current drawn by selfmotor? Will the shunt allow to flow that much current for starter and all ? Or it be a problem which shunt being the weaker link in the line and blows off?
I love your question, Mate! Yes & No!!! This DC mini digital meter's limitation: Max 100V & 100A which it can only withstand! it will be okay for starting current from motorcycles or mini cars however for other cars' starting current can be range of 100 to 250A in the most cases, so it'd be highly likewise to blow off the meter & shunt. Incidentally speaking, the way of mini meter & shunt connected in the video showed must be seen as whole thing then to connect it to whatever the circuit is. Good luck! 👍
@@diymade2175 so i have to connect the shunt after the starter, but how can i connect the shunt in a positive line, in the video shunt goes in the negative. As all my electrical equipments are grounded to body where can i connect the shunt?
Or better to connect in the alternator line?
@@arunck5779 Theoretically speaking, you can connect it in either ways: In the alternator line or after the starter however in your case, to connect in the alternator line would be challenging & cause some troubles in the practical situation. It will be better to connect it after the starter: (1) Disconnecting negative(-) terminal cable from your car's battery. (2) Connecting Shunt's one end (Thick Black Wire connected from the mini meter) to car's battery negative(-) terminal, of course you have to use a suitable cable which can withstand starting current such as a jumper lead. (3) Connecting Shunt's other end (Thick Red Wire connected from the mini meter) to car's body or the Black cable that you disconnected from battery negative terminal for seconds ago, again by using another jumper lead as you wish. That's it, then start your car and good luck & enjoy! 👍
@@arunck5779 One more step missed: (4) Connecting Thin Red & Yellow wires from the mini meter together to car's battery positive(+) terminal. 👍
Hi. Is the 100A shunt can still read 12A current load?
Yes, absolutely💪
@@diymade2175 but maybe not that accurate. What do you think sir?
Thanks for asking. For my own interested, I did a few tests regarding the accuracy just after this video produced. To my surprise, it was accurate cross the range (To Max 80A I tested) except under 0.5A (under 500mA but it was still less than 20% variation). Incidentally make sure a shunt''s end of connection are in excellent condition & Mini Digital Meter's power supply in good condition as well. Enjoying your experience!
@@diymade2175 thank you for a very good answer.
How can I use it to measure my solar panels current
Thanks for this question! For safe measurement, disconnect panels from main circuit. If your panels output vantage is under DC 30 V (the most panels are, you can identify this from the panel's back sticker), connecting DC meter's thin Red, Yellow Wires and Thick Red Wire together to the Panels Red Wire then connecting DC Meter's Thick Black Wire to the Panel's Other Wire (in the most cases, this wire is Blue in colour also be sure Meter and its Shunt have a good connection). That's it. Now the DC Meter should be showing Panels voltage & current. Incidentally beware - beware, when second time connected to the panel's wire, the electric spark would be produced! Good luck and enjoy your experience.
@@diymade2175 Sir I want to use these parts on my DIY wind turbine 12 volts battery bank.
Thanks
@@anythinganywhere05 👍👍 Make sure that Shunt has a good connection and also DC current is under 100 amperes. Thanks for your interested !
Hi. The video title says 100v but on your schematics it says 4~30v. It means it is not a 100v meter?
Thank you for the interested! DC 4 - 30 V is the range of Mini Digital Vol & Amp Meter's supply voltage: In order to let the Meter work, it needs to have a DC power given (such as DC 5 V, 9 V, 15V, 24 V & Max 30 V etc). On the other hand, DC 100 V & 100 A are Max voltage and current that Meter can measure for the practical circuit in use for example: You have a DC motor with max 72 V & 12 A capacity, then using the Meter in the video showed to measure or monitor that motor's running Voltage and Amperes. Cheers 👍
4 to 30 volts to power the meter on the red wire, and measured volts are 0 to 100 on the yellow wire
@@JeffreyPar-pr2zw 👍👍
many thnx, you are first, we done to see on video, old 10A integratet Shunt should be are remove!
Thanks, you are right but it might have a objective service.
Does the shunt have + and - ???
No, the Shunt does not have positive (+) or negative (-). Thanks for your interested!
@@diymade2175
Appreciated your kindness
I prepare a box for shunt and meter, but accidentaly ı short circuit shunt itself, right now ı give right connetion, leds are working but no amper show. I dont have big load to test ı prepare home and supposed to field . now shunt burn ? because rightnow lights are work@@diymade2175
The spider house...
Does not no work on mine 😞
Please check all connections and good luck 👍
@@diymade2175 Thanks. Found out that there are slight variations to these devices. On closer inspection mine has the white sockets on slightly different locations. But the cables are all the same. On mine I had to connect the shunt to the thin black and yellow, and skip the thick black. This is confusing but now working...