I've watched a heap of DIY solar power off grid vids but this is the first one that does a good job covering every aspect of the given topic, with good quality, great quality actually, and a non annoying host and basically just trying to say good job bro, subbed and liked thanks.
This video series on dual batteries is so good, I was ready to just buy it all from your site, but then I saw it's only in Australia. Make the products available in the US, with content like this the money will come flying at you.
These videos are the ducks guts. Great stuff! As much as I thought I knew, I’m learning how to explain better to my customers & understand there custom requirements. On to part 3
BTW, in the states, household line power is 120-125 Volts 60 Hz. We have 240 volt outlets, but usually a limited number. Also AGM, for the uninformed is a newer battery technology, Absorbent Glass Mat. It's an advanced lead-acid battery that provides superior power to support the higher electrical demands. Bottom line, AGM is more expensive. Also, beware of cheaper diode isolators. A silicone diode semiconductor junction has a 0.7 fixed voltage drop that u need to be aware of. I like the sensor type better. Or better yet the DC/DC charger is best.
sub'd bc of this right here...much appreciated! thanks from los angeles. 3rd gen tacoma owner planning on dual batt setup and possible ac inverter. was about to spend $1600 on a drop in dual batt bracket and 2 new batts. this made me rethink things and put components in place and save some $$$
Question, I had a dual battery set up with a smart isolator. I wanted to add a 3rd AGM in the back to a dcdc charger, do I remove the isolator from the 1st to 2nd, or do I wire the dcdc charger to the 2nd battery instead of the main and leave the isolator on? Thanks in advance.
Do you need all this or can you just charge your fridge on the way there with a single battery then when get to camp plug it into a portable power pack with solar?
I have a '98 diesel hilux with an extra battery already under bonnet. I plan a third battery in back later on. Q1 can you recommend a compromise battery type that "does OK" under the bonnet for the time being? There's already an isolator. Q2 would you recommend a second isolator to keep batteries 2 and 3 separate or treat them as one battery? Might a smart isolator could be bypassed with a 100A relay while the engine is running before a smart isolator makes it in? Sorry if you say that later in the video. Got one of your light bars and some of your reversing lights for Christmas. 😀 I like them. Also STEDI ones. I grok this stuff, but didn't know about all the 12v gear that is now available. Thanks for the tips.
One explanation missing is the full car length negative cable. It's not supplied with your isolator switch system from Kings. How much current loss by earthing the battery?
Amazing video, thank you so much! I have one question: I'm running a 100ah Kings Battery with the smart isolator. Now I'm using the car for daily life as well, and I'm worried, that the auxiliary battery is constantly charged by the starter battery, while not being used or discharged for days or weeks until I go camping again. Should I disconnect my auxiliary battery from the starter battery when using the car in a daily routine? Any tips are highly appreciated. Thanks!
Question: I have 12V plug to anderson so if I plug it in my cigarette lighter and use MPPT controler from my solar blanket and plug into the deep cycle battery to charge while driving, would that be OK or not?
I have a 2nd battery in a battery box in my car which I used to power my camping fridge. I charge it when driving via the car cigarette lighter socket. It simply connects into the car socket at one end and a socket in the battery box at the other. When the engine is going it charges. When the engine is off it doesn't. I'd be interested in your comments on this system.
Hi Anne great to hear your battery is being put to good use. Is there a particular question you have? We have many detailed youtube videos on our batteries that may assist you further including this useful video on dual battery basics p1. th-cam.com/video/8F6AYavY870/w-d-xo.html Cheers, Emily
If i wanted to charge a portable power battery is it advised to stil use a bcdc unit? Or can i just plug it into the cars 240v outlet/cigarette lighter to charge up my portable battery when driving and just remember to disconnect it when my car is off?
So with a dc dc charger, do I still need an isolator? Can I just use a manual isolator or is a smart isolator recommended? ACA will the aux battery drain the starter?
Hi there, A isolator will not charge the battery. If you would like to charge the battery you will need a DCDC charger. If you want to charge the battery via solar and the alternator, you will need the DCDC charger. Kind regards, Rachael
You certainly can mate, just use some suitably sized cabling to connect positive to positive battery terminals and negative to negative to connect in parallel. Cheers Brenno
Great video and very informative. We have a 120 AH LiFePo4 (iTECH120X 12 Volt Lithium). Does having Lithium change much? Different charging voltage? Different setups?
@wayne McGlinn I have a lithium battery too but when he says it can handle different chemistries he never mentions lithium so I think it doesn’t and he didn’t answer your question which a lot of people are wondering now that lithium are so popular. C tek do a very expensive one like €800 lead to lithium but it’s too expensive for me
For the 25a wire kit (I have a 25a dcdc charger), is the negative wire connected to the negative port of starter battery or earth of vehicle? I can't get mine to work unfortunately
Hi there, The negative wire for the wiring kit is connected to the starter battery, you can find a video to assist further with installation here - th-cam.com/video/LMLZ7KmbZ8k/w-d-xo.html Cheers, Courtney
@@4wdsupacentreAu cheers Courtney. I've connected the 25a from the starter battery in hood to the auxiliary battery in the Ute tub via the dcdc charger. I've been driving for a combined time of just over 2 hrs today and the voltage has not moved from 13.4 (on the battery box screen) since before I left home. Not too sure why that is. Was hoping with the driving I've been doing today alone that at least the voltage would go up more.
@@4wdsupacentreAu just a little frustrating because I just bought the wiring kit, dcdc charger and battery (as well as battery box) on new years eve and hoping everything is working fine before camping with family this weekend. But the voltage for the 120ah lithium battery hasn't moved since I bought it and connected it to my Ute.
Solar is arguably easier, but it really depends on your vehicle. Utes make it a lot easier for either as you can easily run wire underneath the vehicle and into the tub or canopy. In a wagon you'd generally run the wiring through the vehicle under the carpet. Either way fuses or circuit breakers are essential! But you'd require a lot of solar panels to equal the output of your alternator - so it's not really a fair comparison. If you had a 100A Alternator charging at 14.4V, you'd need about 1400 Watts of solar to charge the equivalent amount. You don't technically need to run to your alternator as that's all factory fitted in your vehicle. you do need to run the wiring from your start battery through to your auxiliary battery though. with solar input you just need to run the wires from your solar panel to your auxiliary battery (with a regulator and fuses) What are you thinking for your setup and I can offer some more advice! Cheers, Cahn
Why do I need a take a negative cable to the back of the vehicle, can't I just connect it to the chassis like the starter battery then I would only need one heavy duty cable to feed through to the back of the vehicle ?
Hey mate, You can but running a separate heavy duty cable is just a better option. In most cases earthing to the chassis will work - it’s worth checking the voltage drop though as steel is less conductive than copper! Cheers, Cahn
Hi mate, use the red on/off switch when you want to completely isolate the battery so no power is going in or coming out - like when it is stored for extended periods of time. Cheers for watching! Brenno
Hi guys, I have a TOYOTA estima 2005. I purchased a dcdc battery box from another company and need to know where the blue wire gets connected to. I'm having a lot of trouble getting a response from the other company. Many thanks, Steve
Hey mate, If you're adding the DCDC charger, you wont need the isolator as the DCDC charger does the same thing! just check the user manual for whether or not you need to connect the blue wire (necessary for smart alternators) which will isolate the second battery when your ignition is off! Otherwise, without the blue wire connected it works similar to the VSR and turns off when it senses a certain low voltage. Cheers, Cahn
My truck is outfitted from the factory with a second mounting location under the hood for an auxiliary battery. I'd like to mount it there, would you guys?
Your truck's starting battery is lead acid and can take very high starting temps. AGM on the other hand don't like temps over 120 degrees Fahrenheit, so in the summer that AGM will be damaged if it's under the hood. What year and model is your truck and are you located in the U.S. or Australia?
Ok. I am as well.I imagine both of those batteries are lead acid due to the heat factor under the hood. So many vehicles today MUST rely on two batteries to maintain smart parts on climate control, power accessories, alarm systems, etc. So, you'll need 2 lead batteries under your hood and an AGM, probably located back in the bed. You don't want any batteries in the cab with you, if you can avoid it. Also, so many people start adding batteries, relays, chargers, fuses, wiring, but NO ONE ever has an ABC fire extinguisher when something catches fire.
Hey Adam it's actually dependent on the battery itself - generally they'll require 2.4 to 2.45V per cell. IMaybe I should've been less specific, but I figure this is a basic video so it's just showing that different batteries require different charging voltages. With 6 cells in a 12V battery: 2.4*6=14.4V. You're right, some need 14.4V - best idea is to look at the individual battery specs and use a charger that's able to select for voltage or battery chemistry. Another good idea is to use a charger with temperature compensation as the V/cell will change depending on the batteries temperature and internal resistance. Cheers, Cahn
This series has taken something I have struggled to understand for years and made it digestible in 20 min. Thanks you!!
I've watched a heap of DIY solar power off grid vids but this is the first one that does a good job covering every aspect of the given topic, with good quality, great quality actually, and a non annoying host and basically just trying to say good job bro, subbed and liked thanks.
Thanks mate! Much appreciated!
Cheers,
Cahn
I just really want some green cordial rn
👍👍😆
Echo cooler
🤣🤣🤣
Haha
Jesus i was thinking the same thing while wqtching it
This video series on dual batteries is so good, I was ready to just buy it all from your site, but then I saw it's only in Australia. Make the products available in the US, with content like this the money will come flying at you.
These videos are the ducks guts. Great stuff! As much as I thought I knew, I’m learning how to explain better to my customers & understand there custom requirements. On to part 3
Awesome Rusty, Thanks for your support mate.
Cheers,
Chad
You're amazing for these videos. Watched maybe 20 so far and yours are by far the easiest to understand with the most information. Thank you!
Thanks mate! Really appreciate the kind words!
Cheers,
Cahn
BTW, in the states, household line power is 120-125 Volts 60 Hz. We have 240 volt outlets, but usually a limited number. Also AGM, for the uninformed is a newer battery technology, Absorbent Glass Mat. It's an advanced lead-acid battery that provides superior power to support the higher electrical demands. Bottom line, AGM is more expensive. Also, beware of cheaper diode isolators. A silicone diode semiconductor junction has a 0.7 fixed voltage drop that u need to be aware of. I like the sensor type better. Or better yet the DC/DC charger is best.
Very clear, professional and informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent info! You're giving us lots to options to choose from.
Awesome video series Cahn. Well explained and happily King's have all that we need to get the job done. Cheers mate.
Very good commentary.
Been after a good explanation video for my setup for a while. Thanks!
sub'd bc of this right here...much appreciated! thanks from los angeles. 3rd gen tacoma owner planning on dual batt setup and possible ac inverter. was about to spend $1600 on a drop in dual batt bracket and 2 new batts. this made me rethink things and put components in place and save some $$$
Question, I had a dual battery set up with a smart isolator. I wanted to add a 3rd AGM in the back to a dcdc charger, do I remove the isolator from the 1st to 2nd, or do I wire the dcdc charger to the 2nd battery instead of the main and leave the isolator on? Thanks in advance.
Do I connect my starter battery to the positive and negative on the front of the battery box? And what amp fuse would I be best to use?
Do you need all this or can you just charge your fridge on the way there with a single battery then when get to camp plug it into a portable power pack with solar?
Great learning!
I have a '98 diesel hilux with an extra battery already under bonnet. I plan a third battery in back later on.
Q1 can you recommend a compromise battery type that "does OK" under the bonnet for the time being? There's already an isolator.
Q2 would you recommend a second isolator to keep batteries 2 and 3 separate or treat them as one battery?
Might a smart isolator could be bypassed with a 100A relay while the engine is running before a smart isolator makes it in?
Sorry if you say that later in the video.
Got one of your light bars and some of your reversing lights for Christmas. 😀 I like them. Also STEDI ones.
I grok this stuff, but didn't know about all the 12v gear that is now available. Thanks for the tips.
One explanation missing is the full car length negative cable. It's not supplied with your isolator switch system from Kings. How much current loss by earthing the battery?
Amazing video, thank you so much!
I have one question:
I'm running a 100ah Kings Battery with the smart isolator. Now I'm using the car for daily life as well, and I'm worried, that the auxiliary battery is constantly charged by the starter battery, while not being used or discharged for days or weeks until I go camping again. Should I disconnect my auxiliary battery from the starter battery when using the car in a daily routine?
Any tips are highly appreciated. Thanks!
So with a bcdc charger I wouldn’t need an isolator near the primary battery running to the bcdc charger?
Question: I have 12V plug to anderson so if I plug it in my cigarette lighter and use MPPT controler from my solar blanket and plug into the deep cycle battery to charge while driving, would that be OK or not?
great stuff
I have a 2nd battery in a battery box in my car which I used to power my camping fridge. I charge it when driving via the car cigarette lighter socket. It simply connects into the car socket at one end and a socket in the battery box at the other. When the engine is going it charges. When the engine is off it doesn't. I'd be interested in your comments on this system.
Hi Anne great to hear your battery is being put to good use. Is there a particular question you have? We have many detailed youtube videos on our batteries that may assist you further including this useful video on dual battery basics p1. th-cam.com/video/8F6AYavY870/w-d-xo.html
Cheers, Emily
So a redarc isolator does the same thing … can you run a dcdc charger as well as the isolator ??
Hi there,
We would only recommend running only the DCDC charger or the isolator.
Regards, Courtney
What about lithium battery charge needs
Very well done, thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for your comment 👍🏼
Best videos I’ve seen on TH-cam
Thanks for the support 👍🏼
So if i add a dcdc charger, can i remove my smart battery isolater?
If i wanted to charge a portable power battery is it advised to stil use a bcdc unit? Or can i just plug it into the cars 240v outlet/cigarette lighter to charge up my portable battery when driving and just remember to disconnect it when my car is off?
So with a dc dc charger, do I still need an isolator? Can I just use a manual isolator or is a smart isolator recommended? ACA will the aux battery drain the starter?
Hi there,
Our DCDC charger has an inbuilt isolator.
Cheers, Courtney
Hey just wondering if a DC DC charger is required if I already have an isolator?
Hi there,
A isolator will not charge the battery. If you would like to charge the battery you will need a DCDC charger. If you want to charge the battery via solar and the alternator, you will need the DCDC charger.
Kind regards, Rachael
Can you hook up two deep cycle batteries in a series/parallel using two boxes?
You certainly can mate, just use some suitably sized cabling to connect positive to positive battery terminals and negative to negative to connect in parallel. Cheers Brenno
have you sussed out kickass products
Great video and very informative. We have a 120 AH LiFePo4 (iTECH120X 12 Volt Lithium). Does having Lithium change much? Different charging voltage? Different setups?
@wayne McGlinn I have a lithium battery too but when he says it can handle different chemistries he never mentions lithium so I think it doesn’t and he didn’t answer your question which a lot of people are wondering now that lithium are so popular. C tek do a very expensive one like €800 lead to lithium but it’s too expensive for me
It really depends on your dc-dc charger. If he can handle LiPos than youre fine.
can i use a DCDC charger on my 2005 landrover being an older car?
Hi there, Yes, you most certainly can. Kind regards, Rachael
what model is your dcdc charger? can you provide me with a link?
i see that the solar panel connects via the left plug whats the right side plug used for ive never seen anything plugged in there
It’s just an output for power - so you can plug just about anything in there so long as you don’t overload that circuit!
Cheers,
Cahn
For the 25a wire kit (I have a 25a dcdc charger), is the negative wire connected to the negative port of starter battery or earth of vehicle? I can't get mine to work unfortunately
Hi there,
The negative wire for the wiring kit is connected to the starter battery, you can find a video to assist further with installation here - th-cam.com/video/LMLZ7KmbZ8k/w-d-xo.html
Cheers, Courtney
@@4wdsupacentreAu cheers Courtney. I've connected the 25a from the starter battery in hood to the auxiliary battery in the Ute tub via the dcdc charger. I've been driving for a combined time of just over 2 hrs today and the voltage has not moved from 13.4 (on the battery box screen) since before I left home. Not too sure why that is. Was hoping with the driving I've been doing today alone that at least the voltage would go up more.
@@4wdsupacentreAu just a little frustrating because I just bought the wiring kit, dcdc charger and battery (as well as battery box) on new years eve and hoping everything is working fine before camping with family this weekend. But the voltage for the 120ah lithium battery hasn't moved since I bought it and connected it to my Ute.
Great video, thx alot.
Glad you liked it!
Which is the easiest to set up between the solar and running the cables to the alternator and start battery?
Solar is arguably easier, but it really depends on your vehicle. Utes make it a lot easier for either as you can easily run wire underneath the vehicle and into the tub or canopy. In a wagon you'd generally run the wiring through the vehicle under the carpet. Either way fuses or circuit breakers are essential!
But you'd require a lot of solar panels to equal the output of your alternator - so it's not really a fair comparison.
If you had a 100A Alternator charging at 14.4V, you'd need about 1400 Watts of solar to charge the equivalent amount.
You don't technically need to run to your alternator as that's all factory fitted in your vehicle. you do need to run the wiring from your start battery through to your auxiliary battery though. with solar input you just need to run the wires from your solar panel to your auxiliary battery (with a regulator and fuses)
What are you thinking for your setup and I can offer some more advice!
Cheers,
Cahn
Dc dc charger. No lithium mentioned on the unit!?
Why do I need a take a negative cable to the back of the vehicle, can't I just connect it to the chassis like the starter battery then I would only need one heavy duty cable to feed through to the back of the vehicle ?
Hey mate,
You can but running a separate heavy duty cable is just a better option.
In most cases earthing to the chassis will work - it’s worth checking the voltage drop though as steel is less conductive than copper!
Cheers,
Cahn
Hi champ I'm new to this game. Can you tell me about the red on off switch on the kings battery box. And how and when it should be used. Cheers
Hi mate, use the red on/off switch when you want to completely isolate the battery so no power is going in or coming out - like when it is stored for extended periods of time. Cheers for watching! Brenno
I like what are you doing I want to do that to my vehicle that cool I like that
Awesome - thanks 👍🏼
Hi guys, I have a TOYOTA estima 2005. I purchased a dcdc battery box from another company and need to know where the blue wire gets connected to. I'm having a lot of trouble getting a response from the other company. Many thanks, Steve
Hey mate, what dc to dc battery do you have?
Can DC DC charger go under the bonnet?
Hi there,
Unfortunately our DCDC chargers are not suitable for under the bonnet use.
Regards, Courtney
So if using the dc dc charger do I still leave my kings isolator in ? Or would this replace it
Thanks for the great videos
Hey mate,
If you're adding the DCDC charger, you wont need the isolator as the DCDC charger does the same thing!
just check the user manual for whether or not you need to connect the blue wire (necessary for smart alternators) which will isolate the second battery when your ignition is off! Otherwise, without the blue wire connected it works similar to the VSR and turns off when it senses a certain low voltage.
Cheers,
Cahn
this wouldn't happen to be sponsored by Kings would it?
Hi there, We are the manufacturers of adventure Kings Products =)
Cheers
Saleha
My truck is outfitted from the factory with a second mounting location under the hood for an auxiliary battery. I'd like to mount it there, would you guys?
Will the 2nd battery be a lead acid or an AGM (absorbent glass mat) battery? You must know that before you can expect a knowledgeable answer.
@@bentnickel7487
I think I would prefer an AGM battery.
Your truck's starting battery is lead acid and can take very high starting temps. AGM on the other hand don't like temps over 120 degrees Fahrenheit, so in the summer that AGM will be damaged if it's under the hood. What year and model is your truck and are you located in the U.S. or Australia?
@@bentnickel7487
I'm in the US. I've got a 2013 Silverado.
Ok. I am as well.I imagine both of those batteries are lead acid due to the heat factor under the hood. So many vehicles today MUST rely on two batteries to maintain smart parts on climate control, power accessories, alarm systems, etc. So, you'll need 2 lead batteries under your hood and an AGM, probably located back in the bed. You don't want any batteries in the cab with you, if you can avoid it. Also, so many people start adding batteries, relays, chargers, fuses, wiring, but NO ONE ever has an ABC fire extinguisher when something catches fire.
Thankfully Jeep Wranglers don't have a smart alternator, so it's easy to build a dual battery kit.
AGM batteries only charge at 14.4 volts 4wd supacentre gee wiz lol
Hey Adam it's actually dependent on the battery itself - generally they'll require 2.4 to 2.45V per cell. IMaybe I should've been less specific, but I figure this is a basic video so it's just showing that different batteries require different charging voltages.
With 6 cells in a 12V battery: 2.4*6=14.4V. You're right, some need 14.4V - best idea is to look at the individual battery specs and use a charger that's able to select for voltage or battery chemistry.
Another good idea is to use a charger with temperature compensation as the V/cell will change depending on the batteries temperature and internal resistance.
Cheers,
Cahn
who else drives to the beach to stare at a tailgate??
Volvo