@@NineCarGarage it took about 5.5 hrs. I went the route of leaving the ball joints in tact. I never would have saved the car had you not made the video and other folks comments. So very thankful to you all!!
Sure! It was like new with the fixes. Good mileage, reasonable size, 180k miles without any major engine work. Worst problem I had was replacing the clutch and rear main seal.
Subframe steps: Jack placement you only need two Take the lower control arms out from the frame side not from the knuckle unless you need the ball joints. There are 19mm the rear lower control arm you have to take the triangular plate off (2 14mm and one 19mm) This will allow you to get to the 19mm that holds the frame to the body of the car. the you have two 19mm on the front corners of the subframe. Once you have those loose..... dont take them all the way out just to the point where they have about 2-3 threads left so that they will hold the subframe up. This will allow you room to get to the two 14mm bolts to the sway bar bushing(as seen at 22:21) as well as the 3 17mm bolts to the rack on the pasengerside of the subframe (seen at 23:00). USE RATCHETING WRENCHES as it is a tight space. The 2 17mm on the driverside of the rack you can get them from the top of the car with some long 1/2 extentions( one of them shown at 20:48). This is the way i have done this to get the sway bar and rack disconnected from the rack so that i didnt have to realign the steering wheel but you may find it easier do to it the way you see it in the video and leave the rack and sway connected until you get it on the floor. as for the rear motor mount take the 17mm out from the passengerside (as stated 22:10) you could just leave the mount attached to the transmission of you want. then you have to take the power steering lines off frame (10mm) there are (2 10mm) coolant lines as seen at 19:30 then there are i think 4 10mm for the transmission line (manual tranny not sure about the auto) for the cooler on the driverside 2 of them are near the front of the subframe and the other 2 are behind the axle area i believe.
Sounds like you have some experience here ;) One question though, won't you alway need a realignment when you swap out a subframe? Seems the rack wouldn't ever go back in exactly where it came out.
@@NineCarGarage your alignment is mostly based upon the tie rods. If you disconnect them from the spindle and don't disturb the thread length of the inner and outer tie rod you should be fine... if you change the size of the strut bolts this can help you slightly on your camber. If you had adjustable upper ball joints then then you can effect your camber that way as well
I just had a sway bar bushing bolt break off because some jerk rammed it in crooked with an impact. I was thinking of dropping out and bringing it in for a bolt extraction. Any tips? It is the rear driver side sway bushing to subframe bolt.
I have have the same issue with my 2006 Mazda6 V6, it won't pass a safety certification. I think my subframe was rusted out by the AC drip line leaking on top if the subframe for 15 years plus all the salt in Toronto. Was there severe rust on the subframe by the AC condensor? I'll probably scrap my car in the spring, too bad cause it still drives great.
It's an interesting thought, generally the AC condensation leaks out the passenger side at the fire wall. Usually its low but I didnt notice it while working on this car. Although this is approximate where the rust was the worst, I didn't associate the rust with that drain, but you are probably 100% correct.
@@NineCarGarage I have the 2006 Mazda 6 3.0 and I’m in Toronto as well, exact same thing happened to me and it’s right where the ac drips. I can’t find the part anywhere, but do you know if the subframe from a 2006 Ford Fusion 3.0 is interchangeable with the one from my car?
@@anandhubabu7883 funny enough you ask I actually got it done free of charge depending on your year you should be able to get a recall for it!!! The total cost was 2678 $ CAD but like I said it was a recall so it’s free of charge :))
i dont know about other models or years but THE 2010 MAZDA 6 HAS A FACTORY RECALL ON ITS SUB FRAME AND ALL SUB FRAME PARTS AND LABOR TO REPLACE IT BY A MAZDA DEALER IS INCLUDED, FREE ! JUST LETTING YOU OWNERS KNOW BECAUSE MAZDA DEALERS OR MAZDA CORPORATION WONT .
Yeah, my wife has a 2012 Mazda 2, I got underneath it recently for an oil change and was horrified at the state of the subframe. Wirebrushed and undersealed it but I reckon it might be too little too late.
Holy moly man thank you for this video! I'm running into the exact same thing with my Speed 6, just ordered a new subframe because I cannot get the lower control arms out!
Man great video. I'm trying to prevent myself from doing this. I need to get to the rear bolt in the steering rack. And I'm just not having any luck. any advice?
I need to replace my 06 Mazda 6 3.0 subframe and I can’t find any anywhere…I was told the Ford Fusion 3.0 are the same? Any interchangeable part for the crossmember
Most junkyards have access to a large network of parts and could look up to see who has a matching part. They could probably determine the cross references. The fusion and 6 do have a lot of crossover parts, that wouldn't surprise at all, but definitely you should exhaust all of the regular channels like used parts direct and autopartshub.
I got a used 2010 mazda 6 and I have been having the same issue. the chassis is without rust nut the subframe is the super corroded. the mazda dealer tried to get my subframe replaced since he thought that with the current condition of the subframe the old owner may have missed the subframe recall but I was surprised to know when I called mazda that they had already replaced the crossmember back in 2019. how in the hell would it rust like that in 3 years!?!? I believe mazda should be sued more for this
The air conditioning drain leaking onto the subframe will speed up corrosion but 3 years is pretty ridiculous. It took maybe 13 years for my car to get this bad, even in new england. Maybe there was a mix-up regarding what work was actually completed by the dealer, or was replaced with a used subframe? Especially sin
Just very gery important FYI to everyone, mazda has called a recall recently on the front subframe crossmember. They should replace it free or if somebody had it replaced you can still should get reimburstment. Please contact mazda
Drive your Mazda's into the ground and get what dollars you can from the junk yard then go buy yourself an American built performance vehicle, Mazdas give good headache ,,,,,,
this video is gold. During an oil change my frame was found to be swiss cheese on the passenger side. Next week I'll be doing to swap.
Great! Hope yours goes easier than mine!
@@NineCarGarage it took about 5.5 hrs. I went the route of leaving the ball joints in tact. I never would have saved the car had you not made the video and other folks comments. So very thankful to you all!!
Worth it? I'm looking at an 05 that will likely need the whole front end rebuilt but for that much effort might just run away
Sure! It was like new with the fixes. Good mileage, reasonable size, 180k miles without any major engine work. Worst problem I had was replacing the clutch and rear main seal.
Subframe steps:
Jack placement you only need two
Take the lower control arms out from the frame side not from the knuckle unless you need the ball joints. There are 19mm
the rear lower control arm you have to take the triangular plate off (2 14mm and one 19mm) This will allow you to get to the 19mm that holds the frame to the body of the car.
the you have two 19mm on the front corners of the subframe.
Once you have those loose..... dont take them all the way out just to the point where they have about 2-3 threads left so that they will hold the subframe up. This will allow you room to get to the two 14mm bolts to the sway bar bushing(as seen at 22:21) as well as the 3 17mm bolts to the rack on the pasengerside of the subframe (seen at 23:00). USE RATCHETING WRENCHES as it is a tight space. The 2 17mm on the driverside of the rack you can get them from the top of the car with some long 1/2 extentions( one of them shown at 20:48). This is the way i have done this to get the sway bar and rack disconnected from the rack so that i didnt have to realign the steering wheel but you may find it easier do to it the way you see it in the video and leave the rack and sway connected until you get it on the floor. as for the rear motor mount take the 17mm out from the passengerside (as stated 22:10) you could just leave the mount attached to the transmission of you want. then you have to take the power steering lines off frame (10mm) there are (2 10mm) coolant lines as seen at 19:30 then there are i think 4 10mm for the transmission line (manual tranny not sure about the auto) for the cooler on the driverside 2 of them are near the front of the subframe and the other 2 are behind the axle area i believe.
Sounds like you have some experience here ;) One question though, won't you alway need a realignment when you swap out a subframe? Seems the rack wouldn't ever go back in exactly where it came out.
@@NineCarGarage your alignment is mostly based upon the tie rods. If you disconnect them from the spindle and don't disturb the thread length of the inner and outer tie rod you should be fine... if you change the size of the strut bolts this can help you slightly on your camber. If you had adjustable upper ball joints then then you can effect your camber that way as well
I can’t find one for my 06 3.0 any interchangeable subframes I can use? Heard the Ford Fusions are the same 🤷🏻♂️
I just had a sway bar bushing bolt break off because some jerk rammed it in crooked with an impact.
I was thinking of dropping out and bringing it in for a bolt extraction. Any tips? It is the rear driver side sway bushing to subframe bolt.
Thanks for the upload. I don't feel so bad now with how my MSP rear subframe looks.
Hey, alright! See there's a silver lining in my misery ;)
I have have the same issue with my 2006 Mazda6 V6, it won't pass a safety certification. I think my subframe was rusted out by the AC drip line leaking on top if the subframe for 15 years plus all the salt in Toronto. Was there severe rust on the subframe by the AC condensor? I'll probably scrap my car in the spring, too bad cause it still drives great.
It's an interesting thought, generally the AC condensation leaks out the passenger side at the fire wall. Usually its low but I didnt notice it while working on this car. Although this is approximate where the rust was the worst, I didn't associate the rust with that drain, but you are probably 100% correct.
@@NineCarGarage I have the 2006 Mazda 6 3.0 and I’m in Toronto as well, exact same thing happened to me and it’s right where the ac drips. I can’t find the part anywhere, but do you know if the subframe from a 2006 Ford Fusion 3.0 is interchangeable with the one from my car?
Mine just went on my 2009 Mazda 6 but the car is still in great condition and I don’t want to scrap it so I might end up doing a subframe replacement
@@elclampo8238hey how much it coast to replace the subframe including the labour charge ?
@@anandhubabu7883 funny enough you ask I actually got it done free of charge depending on your year you should be able to get a recall for it!!! The total cost was 2678 $ CAD but like I said it was a recall so it’s free of charge :))
i dont know about other models or years but THE 2010 MAZDA 6 HAS A FACTORY RECALL ON ITS SUB FRAME AND ALL SUB FRAME PARTS AND LABOR TO REPLACE IT BY A MAZDA DEALER IS INCLUDED, FREE ! JUST LETTING YOU OWNERS KNOW BECAUSE MAZDA DEALERS OR MAZDA CORPORATION WONT .
Thanks for looking out for us!
Yeah, my wife has a 2012 Mazda 2, I got underneath it recently for an oil change and was horrified at the state of the subframe. Wirebrushed and undersealed it but I reckon it might be too little too late.
Guessing it's too late, though I just tried the same on a 2010 Tacoma frame..
Holy moly man thank you for this video! I'm running into the exact same thing with my Speed 6, just ordered a new subframe because I cannot get the lower control arms out!
That's wild. Hopefully you got through it less painfully!
Man great video. I'm trying to prevent myself from doing this. I need to get to the rear bolt in the steering rack. And I'm just not having any luck. any advice?
Sorry, I don't remember it being hard to reach with the subframe down. I don't think it can be reached with the subframe up.
I need to replace my 06 Mazda 6 3.0 subframe and I can’t find any anywhere…I was told the Ford Fusion 3.0 are the same? Any interchangeable part for the crossmember
Most junkyards have access to a large network of parts and could look up to see who has a matching part. They could probably determine the cross references. The fusion and 6 do have a lot of crossover parts, that wouldn't surprise at all, but definitely you should exhaust all of the regular channels like used parts direct and autopartshub.
I got a used 2010 mazda 6 and I have been having the same issue. the chassis is without rust nut the subframe is the super corroded. the mazda dealer tried to get my subframe replaced since he thought that with the current condition of the subframe the old owner may have missed the subframe recall but I was surprised to know when I called mazda that they had already replaced the crossmember back in 2019. how in the hell would it rust like that in 3 years!?!? I believe mazda should be sued more for this
The air conditioning drain leaking onto the subframe will speed up corrosion but 3 years is pretty ridiculous. It took maybe 13 years for my car to get this bad, even in new england. Maybe there was a mix-up regarding what work was actually completed by the dealer, or was replaced with a used subframe? Especially sin
@@NineCarGarage looks like maybe the dealer who did this job did something fishy and reported to mazda that he replaced it.
I feel your pain
Just very gery important FYI to everyone, mazda has called a recall recently on the front subframe crossmember. They should replace it free or if somebody had it replaced you can still should get reimburstment. Please contact mazda
I just searched my vin and found nothing for my 2010 mazda 5 except the 2010 fuel pump connector recall back in 2010.
I have an 08 I am faced with the rear subframe disconnected.. lol
Disconnected? As in unintentionally detached??
i have 242000 miles on my mazda, my mechanic saysat this point, i can expect 500k
Not sure where you live, but nothing lasts that long here due to rust damage.
He is dead wrong unless you wanna rebuild the car around the engine
Drive your Mazda's into the ground and get what dollars you can from the junk yard then go buy yourself an American built performance vehicle, Mazdas give good headache ,,,,,,
Too much of your face, and where’s the mazda you’re chatting about photos?????
Apologies it's the only face I have.