Stumbled across this and great to see someone else with the idea of using the patio cleaner upside-down. I have the same one and just fitted wheels to the top to clean under my Defender. Haven't tried it yet but I'm encouraged by your results.
Good job. For beach driving in Australia, we use either fisholene (fish oil) or lanolin. Apply it with a pump up garden sprayer. Much easier on the wrist/fingers!
Very good. I am going to do my Landrover Defender the same way and was wondering whether to use the rust converter first on the diff and suspension parts. I have already changed my chassis for a Galvanised chassis , but I think a coating of wax will be beneficial as I want to keep this Defender. So, you have convinced me to use the rust converter first. Thanks for the video.
The rust converter is not necessary but it does help to achieve the satisfying black finish. Lanoguard alone will darken everything but the combo works well especially with neither needing much prep work!
There is some debate that using rust converters and then an oil based underseal is not a good idea. As most rust converters contain a lacquer or latex in them to leave a shiny finish once dried. And rust converters never convert all the rust even if its thin rust (scratch a rust converted bit with something, you'll see fresh red rust is still there unconverted where youve scratched). So you might as well just spray lano / oil based underseal directly onto wire wheeled rust, which will soak into the rust, displace water, and stop further rusting occurring. I used to be very pro-rust converter, but since scratching it and seeing whats going on under the surface, I dont really trust them anymore.(This logic only applies to the milkshake like rust converters. The acid ones are probably fine to use as there is no laquer or latex forming a coating, its usually just phosphoric acid. So the lano can soak freely into the converted rust (iron phosphate) @@ChrisSpoonerMotoring
@@ratgreen I don't think Lanoguard goes deeper (and stays) in the rust than the rust converter. I would still apply a good converter to the nasty areas first. Neutrarust 661 Rust Converter does an amazing job, very quick, and leaves a dry, even dark finish where the Lanoguard easily sticks to. The converted area looks very stable and sealed and even when the Lanoguard wears off its more protected. The two together has a very good protection for the exposed areas.
the first product you used have you got an alternative product I can find online like a name or something. also with the second product is there anywhere you should avoid, I can’t tell but did you avoid the exhaust system. just got a 2018 ford ranger and going to take it through costal cities so want to avoid rust and keep it protected. thanks for the vid
Hi there @chrisspoonermotoring. Thank you for the video, very nice to see. i am going to buy some rust converter for my subaru Outback,, how much did you use for your truck ? Thx
Good video. Thanks! How often do you need to spray the underbody? And do you spray the new coat over the old one (it's greasy) or do you clean the old layer before?
No way av got that exact Subaru Forester xt but mines red and manual and a 2.0 did you own the 2.5 or 2.0 am gonna rust proof mine a took it for mot 2 weeks ago expecting it too fail on rust it flew through its mot , the subframe looks rusty so am gonna lanoguard or underseal it immediately
It removes rust, but this cool look will not last long. You have to cover it with some oil or wax to be protected from water. Otherwise rust will get back in a few months
Bilt Hambers Hydrate 80 has no acids in it and works better than any other brand out there. Acidbased Rust converter tend to go bad with time and fo more damage
Hi, thanks for videoing your Lanoguard application! The underbody of your Ford Ranger looks great and glad its protected! We really appreciate it 🙂
Thanks for checking it out!
Give the man some freebies ❤
Stumbled across this and great to see someone else with the idea of using the patio cleaner upside-down. I have the same one and just fitted wheels to the top to clean under my Defender. Haven't tried it yet but I'm encouraged by your results.
This is definitely a good cost effective way of addressing rust on a budget giving you extra time to save up for a nice undercoat proceedure.
Good job. For beach driving in Australia, we use either fisholene (fish oil) or lanolin. Apply it with a pump up garden sprayer. Much easier on the wrist/fingers!
What a fantastic idea using the patio cleaner, top marks there must try this myself 👍👍👍
Very good. I am going to do my Landrover Defender the same way and was wondering whether to use the rust converter first on the diff and suspension parts. I have already changed my chassis for a Galvanised chassis , but I think a coating of wax will be beneficial as I want to keep this Defender. So, you have convinced me to use the rust converter first. Thanks for the video.
Wire brush with drill the best and after that underseal job done
Thanks for sharing this is my next job to do and I wasn’t sure if I needed to do the rust converter first. I will now
The rust converter is not necessary but it does help to achieve the satisfying black finish. Lanoguard alone will darken everything but the combo works well especially with neither needing much prep work!
There is some debate that using rust converters and then an oil based underseal is not a good idea. As most rust converters contain a lacquer or latex in them to leave a shiny finish once dried. And rust converters never convert all the rust even if its thin rust (scratch a rust converted bit with something, you'll see fresh red rust is still there unconverted where youve scratched).
So you might as well just spray lano / oil based underseal directly onto wire wheeled rust, which will soak into the rust, displace water, and stop further rusting occurring.
I used to be very pro-rust converter, but since scratching it and seeing whats going on under the surface, I dont really trust them anymore.(This logic only applies to the milkshake like rust converters. The acid ones are probably fine to use as there is no laquer or latex forming a coating, its usually just phosphoric acid. So the lano can soak freely into the converted rust (iron phosphate)
@@ChrisSpoonerMotoring
@@ratgreen I don't think Lanoguard goes deeper (and stays) in the rust than the rust converter. I would still apply a good converter to the nasty areas first. Neutrarust 661 Rust Converter does an amazing job, very quick, and leaves a dry, even dark finish where the Lanoguard easily sticks to. The converted area looks very stable and sealed and even when the Lanoguard wears off its more protected. The two together has a very good protection for the exposed areas.
I have used lanoguard on my defender, and it looked just as rusty after a month. Will be going back to Dinitrol.
Do you work for dinitrol?
@@neilwood8794 do you work for lanoguard?!
😮 looks way better
Why didn’t you apply the rust converter onto the rusty exhaust ?
What was the rust converter you used ? Thinking of doing the same with my L200 👍
did it get bought out by hammerite? hammerite have a 'kurust' range of products which treat rust like this..
I’ve got 19 year old ranger with a bed that has a few holes in it and full of surface rust would lanoguard be a solution? Any cheap coatings ideas?
the first product you used have you got an alternative product I can find online like a name or something. also with the second product is there anywhere you should avoid, I can’t tell but did you avoid the exhaust system. just got a 2018 ford ranger and going to take it through costal cities so want to avoid rust and keep it protected. thanks for the vid
How much did you need of lanogaurd?..doin my vw t5 wondering how much to order thanks....great job btw
Cheers mate
Hi there @chrisspoonermotoring. Thank you for the video, very nice to see.
i am going to buy some rust converter for my subaru Outback,, how much did you use for your truck ?
Thx
Good video. Thanks! How often do you need to spray the underbody? And do you spray the new coat over the old one (it's greasy) or do you clean the old layer before?
Every 12 months ❤
In Canada the Ford trucks are aluminum frame and body
What is the vertical size on those ramps ?
Und wie sieht er aktuell aus?
No way av got that exact Subaru Forester xt but mines red and manual and a 2.0 did you own the 2.5 or 2.0 am gonna rust proof mine a took it for mot 2 weeks ago expecting it too fail on rust it flew through its mot , the subframe looks rusty so am gonna lanoguard or underseal it immediately
nice work looks much better
Anybody recommend an alternative for Lanoguard in the USA? or know where to get it here?
Fluid film
th-cam.com/video/TRsD-fgt6h0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rZFdEGuak34_ziCx
CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor
how much does ot last ? before rust points apeear again??
Pretty sure you're meant to reapply it every year. Just give it a spray when you do your oil.
Great 👏👍
It removes rust, but this cool look will not last long. You have to cover it with some oil or wax to be protected from water. Otherwise rust will get back in a few months
That is what lanoseal is my brother. It’s an oil based seal
Thanks for the video info Chris. 🙂
Remember, Chris, that God really does love YOU! ❤️
Rust is our enemy..
And it seems to be winning..😂
In case you missed it: Installing a lift kit to my Ford Ranger (on the driveway) - th-cam.com/video/YWMEhIKv-ik/w-d-xo.html
Ok yes
Take bed off and sand everything by hand to see how bad the rust is
I do believe a presentable undercarriage is important these days.
NSFW: Give the undercarriage a good wash 😂
That rust converter does nothing need acid
Most rust converter’s main ingredient is phosphoric acid or tannic acid.
Bilt Hambers Hydrate 80 has no acids in it and works better than any other brand out there. Acidbased Rust converter tend to go bad with time and fo more damage
Lanolin products are a gimmick . Just don’t last long enough
Would you like to help come do my jeep lol I’ll pay