Good retrofit idea. I have put on a digital model using a slightly different method but love to see these mods. Hopefully you have cut some good stones.
Dear Illogic. So, as the stone is being ground down to the angle in the little protractor window, near the hand crank on the right, the Starrett indicator shows the grinding, down to zero depth; Both at the same time, Illogic? I've been trying to use my dial indicator, to show the movement of the faceting machine frames movement, up and down, compared to the base of the mast. That's the same thing, right? I have a digital angle gage, showing the angle of the stone to the grinding wheel, for precision. Two separate operations. Are You suggesting, if I set the angle on the digital gage meter, in the little window (or the electric angle meter), precisely AND then set the Starrett depth gage to zero, both operations will happen at the same time? I'd be making the angle of the dop probe, slowly arc down to zero, as the Starrett reaches zero, right? Is Your new way, one step easier, than me, making a separate digital angle cut, from my angle meter and me, indicating the faceting frame downwards movement, of the frame sliding down the mast? I just received my new machine from Vevor and I've yet to grind my first garnet. Thank You for Your information, C H Connolly Puyallup Valley Gem Club wanna be
I'm a machinist, so maybe I can help answer your question. Having an indicator on the mast like you have can be beneficial if you want to hit a certain size. For example, if you wanted to take a stone from 5.1mm in diameter to 5.0mm. With these cheaper machines though, it's going to be hard to keep consistency if you're using an adjustment (like the mast fine adjustment screw). So an indicator like you have would help with that. However, the easier way to do it would be to lock your mast depth and set a stop on your angle like he did. Having an indicator is good, because you can make things more precise. But the less you have to rely on making adjustments to do things, the easier the process and less prone to error. Having the indicator on the angle stop helps you visually verify that your facets are all the same angle, and having the indicator on the mast makes it easier to measure how much you take off. Long story short, the indicator is providing precise information. The more information you can have, the better your product can turn out. I'll be buying a Vevor soon myself, and my plan is to have an indicator on the mast and a digital angle gauge so I can make precise adjustments in size and angle. Hopefully this helps answer your question!
Disculpe pero así no se calibra la faceteadora, se debe hacer desde la base teniendo encuentra la geometría xyz en todas sus partes móviles, el comparador de carátula y el nivel electrónico están sobrando. Hay que estudiar calculo angular variable dx, dy, dz, y geometría diedrica, eso es todo usando papel, compas, escuadra y transportador.
@@ILLO1978 That means I'll never know until I try it? How about a rough estimate of time? Can it be done in a day if it's a rough finish? Or will it take several days? Or should I estimate a few weeks?
@@kimurashimenosuke6315 for example: if you use a 100 grained disc at medium speed it can even do it in an hour, it depends on your experience not on the machine ...
@@ILLO1978 Thanks. I have ordered the components now. I still need to get to grips with what the depth meter is and the significance of what it does but I'll read up on it.
Salve , anch'io ho lo stesso braccio per sfaccettare , volevo sapere il comparatore che ha installato dietro che cosa serve? Nel senso che cosa indica? Grazie
Salve, indica la profondità del taglio. Fondamentale per fare tagli precisi,la profondità deve essere precisa al centesimo di millimetro impossibile farlo a occhio.
@@ILLO1978 Ok , grazie. Ho notato che il braccio effettivamente non è preciso come dovrebbe d'altronde prezzo che ha rispecchia sua qualità. invece io pensavo di mettere il comparatore nel scorrimento dove c'è la guida così una volta fissato il gradazione si scende giù ( da parte dietro) con il valore di profondità desiderata, cmq se lei ha fatto in questo maniera e funzionale va benissimo lo stesso.
@@ILLO1978 però mi sembra con suo metodo ho paura che cambia il gradazione del taglio , non lo so dovrei provare, invece io pensavo nella parte del gradazione (faccio esempio) mettere a 50 fissato il braccio non deve neanche muovere e la profondità regolare dal scorrimento con le viti che ci sono farlo scendere alla profondità desiderata con aiuto del comparatore, bisogno provare , cmq le idee di uno e l'altro servono per migliorare
@@MI-jp3kj forse non ha capito come funzionano le macchine professionali, faccio un esempio: lei posiziona a vuoto il braccio su 50 gradi con la lancetta del profondimetro sullo 0, quando appoggia il braccio sul disco la pietra va consumata fino a quando la lancetta non arriva esattamente sullo 0, solo cosi avrà un taglio preciso su tutti i lati.
It has a cheater on the mast, at 5:24 look at the knurled round nob with the screw down hex nut on top of it. you loosen that and turn the knurled nob. It's not as convenient as a higher level machine but it is there and works. It is based on a cam inside of there.
So simple and so clever, thank you, you have saved me a lot of money and made me do a lot of research so I learned much 👍😊
Ficou legal viu parabéns
Já ganhou mais um admirador do seu trabalho meu amigo parabéns like
Genial essa sua ideia do relogio de precisao.
Parabens . Obrigado pelo projeto
Mais um seguidor🇧🇷
Thanks for the video this helps me with the hobby
I wish the video quality was better because the content is awesome.
Are you insane?
Good retrofit idea. I have put on a digital model using a slightly different method but love to see these mods. Hopefully you have cut some good stones.
Did you add a multimeter? I want to add ok e to my Lee.
really interesting and difficult to make wrong work . thank you genius .
That's so cool.
I wish you had listed the names of the parts or had links- I'd like to try this
I can tell you a list of the parts. Toilet plunger box of condom wrappers and I believe some Sonic Free mints
Dear Illogic. So, as the stone is being ground down to the angle in the little protractor window, near the hand crank on the right, the Starrett indicator shows the grinding, down to zero depth; Both at the same time, Illogic?
I've been trying to use my dial indicator, to show the movement of the faceting machine frames movement, up and down, compared to the base of the mast. That's the same thing, right? I have a digital angle gage, showing the angle of the stone to the grinding wheel, for precision. Two separate operations.
Are You suggesting, if I set the angle on the digital gage meter, in the little window (or the electric angle meter), precisely AND then set the Starrett depth gage to zero, both operations will happen at the same time?
I'd be making the angle of the dop probe, slowly arc down to zero, as the Starrett reaches zero, right?
Is Your new way, one step easier, than me, making a separate digital angle cut, from my angle meter and me, indicating the faceting frame downwards movement, of the frame sliding down the mast?
I just received my new machine from Vevor and I've yet to grind my first garnet.
Thank You for Your information,
C H Connolly Puyallup Valley Gem Club wanna be
I'm a machinist, so maybe I can help answer your question. Having an indicator on the mast like you have can be beneficial if you want to hit a certain size. For example, if you wanted to take a stone from 5.1mm in diameter to 5.0mm. With these cheaper machines though, it's going to be hard to keep consistency if you're using an adjustment (like the mast fine adjustment screw). So an indicator like you have would help with that. However, the easier way to do it would be to lock your mast depth and set a stop on your angle like he did. Having an indicator is good, because you can make things more precise. But the less you have to rely on making adjustments to do things, the easier the process and less prone to error. Having the indicator on the angle stop helps you visually verify that your facets are all the same angle, and having the indicator on the mast makes it easier to measure how much you take off.
Long story short, the indicator is providing precise information. The more information you can have, the better your product can turn out. I'll be buying a Vevor soon myself, and my plan is to have an indicator on the mast and a digital angle gauge so I can make precise adjustments in size and angle. Hopefully this helps answer your question!
Yes. Thank You. I understand, now. Charles @@KuchiKopium
Boa tarde, interessante, tenho esta catraca e por quanto ficaria só este complemento.
You are a Clever One.
Disculpe pero así no se calibra la faceteadora, se debe hacer desde la base teniendo encuentra la geometría xyz en todas sus partes móviles, el comparador de carátula y el nivel electrónico están sobrando. Hay que estudiar calculo angular variable dx, dy, dz, y geometría diedrica, eso es todo usando papel, compas, escuadra y transportador.
tienes razón en los cálculos precisos, así es como lo uso y estoy contento con él. Saludos
How long does it take for this machine to finish one 57-sided brilliant cut? I'd love to try my hand at it!
there is no time, it depends on many factors
@@ILLO1978 That means I'll never know until I try it? How about a rough estimate of time? Can it be done in a day if it's a rough finish? Or will it take several days? Or should I estimate a few weeks?
@@kimurashimenosuke6315
for example: if you use a 100 grained disc at medium speed it can even do it in an hour, it depends on your experience not on the machine ...
Grazie per la risposta con una semplice analogia. Comincerò con una semplice.
Super like
Bem interessante
So is this how i can make some like a facetron from something I buy off of allibaba?
if done right, yes
Legal a adaptação do inclinômetro na catraca chinesa.
medidor de profundidade e não inclinômetro
@@ILLO1978 Obrigado pela observação. O inclinometro ele coloca no final
@@FirminosMinerals quanto ao inclinômetro, estou fazendo uma modificação adicional para consertá-lo. vejo vocês em breve um novo vídeo
@@ILLO1978 Legal
@@ILLO1978 don't forget to add that you use the toilet plunger and some old condom rapers
% 1 hassasiyetli komparatör yerine, % 0.2 komparatör kullanırsanız 5 misli hassas iş yapabilirsiniz.
Merci
Excellent idea, I will do this. But why would you need both an analogue and a digital gauge?
the analog inclinometer on the machine is not accurate
@@ILLO1978 Yes, I would agree, but I mean the digital dial and the other dial you put on the machine, why both?
@@tonyemmett9296 simple, one is inclinometer, the other is depth meter
@@ILLO1978 Thanks. I have ordered the components now. I still need to get to grips with what the depth meter is and the significance of what it does but I'll read up on it.
@@tonyemmett9296 it is an indispensable thing. you will not be able to do without it
Era melhor ter deixado o nível degital ,seria mais fácil 🤔
Ok
Haomac
Salve , anch'io ho lo stesso braccio per sfaccettare , volevo sapere il comparatore che ha installato dietro che cosa serve? Nel senso che cosa indica? Grazie
Salve, indica la profondità del taglio. Fondamentale per fare tagli precisi,la profondità deve essere precisa al centesimo di millimetro impossibile farlo a occhio.
@@ILLO1978
Ok , grazie.
Ho notato che il braccio effettivamente non è preciso come dovrebbe d'altronde prezzo che ha rispecchia sua qualità.
invece io pensavo di mettere il comparatore nel scorrimento dove c'è la guida così una volta fissato il gradazione si scende giù ( da parte dietro) con il valore di profondità desiderata, cmq se lei ha fatto in questo maniera e funzionale va benissimo lo stesso.
@@MI-jp3kj ho trovato la posizione piu comoda dove metterlo se riesci a sistemarlo meglio fammi sapere, comunque sto facendo altre migliorie
@@ILLO1978 però mi sembra con suo metodo ho paura che cambia il gradazione del taglio , non lo so dovrei provare, invece io pensavo nella parte del gradazione (faccio esempio) mettere a 50 fissato il braccio non deve neanche muovere e la profondità regolare dal scorrimento con le viti che ci sono farlo scendere alla profondità desiderata con aiuto del comparatore, bisogno provare , cmq le idee di uno e l'altro servono per migliorare
@@MI-jp3kj forse non ha capito come funzionano le macchine professionali, faccio un esempio: lei posiziona a vuoto il braccio su 50 gradi con la lancetta del profondimetro sullo 0, quando appoggia il braccio sul disco la pietra va consumata fino a quando la lancetta non arriva esattamente sullo 0, solo cosi avrà un taglio preciso su tutti i lati.
Still doesn't solve the problem that it doesn't have a cheater (micro-index adjuster). Without that, fogettabottit.
It has a cheater on the mast, at 5:24 look at the knurled round nob with the screw down hex nut on top of it. you loosen that and turn the knurled nob. It's not as convenient as a higher level machine but it is there and works. It is based on a cam inside of there.
It does, I also found out later on the vevor.
I have a machine here in the uk cost me over £7000 would anyone like to buy it ?
Wtf is going on here
Looks like pure redundancy to me and it certainly does not make a $3,000.00 machine out of it.
Cringe