HACKED Removing 'sleep mode' Parkside Performance PDSSAP 20 B2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- Today we are looking at a way to remove the 'sleep mode' that is present in many of the Parkside Performance tools, specifically in the newly released impact driver PDSSAP 20 B2. The hack removes sleep mode completely, and gives back permanent trigger responsiveness. Being controlled by the FA2-16/1WEK 42V DC 0.2A QIANHE trigger module, we can disassemble it and review its control logic, and try and reverse-engineer a solution to the tool going to sleep after 40s of idling. We discover a separate switching element that is used to determine the awake state, and can simply bypass/short it, and send the tool a continuous 'awake' signal, that has no adverse effects on the performance of the tool, except for heightened battery drain when idle. This comes out to 26mA of drain, as the tool never goes to its low/no power state, and maintains the green torque indicator lit permanently when connected to a battery. Since the protective shutdown driven by the battery T pin only affects the motor function, the other electricals (LED, MCU) receive constant power, so a tool left connected to a battery would drain this down to ~5V over the course of 3-12 days (until the 5V regulator drops out), thereby damaging the battery.
Therefore anyone considering applying this hack must make sure to ALWAYS remove the battery from the tool when not in use, or risk battery damage.
Flux dispenser 3D print: www.thingiverse.com/thing:454...
Atornilladora de impacto PDSSAP 20-Li B2
Drehschlagschrauber PDSSAP 20-Li B2
Avvitatore a percussione PDSSAP 20-Li B2
Aparafusadora de impacto PDSSAP 20-Li B2
Visseuse à Choc PDSSAP 20-Li B2
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:30 Sleep function
3:30 Trigger module
6:03 Trigger schematic
16:00 Hack
19:30 Reassembly
19:42 Hack tested
23:03 Battery warning!
#ElectronicsCreators
All content used within the fair use doctrine. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I am amazed that you were able to assemble that back together, and it works! Good job.👏
magic of the healing bench...
Super! I've already modified the soldering station thanks to you. I like what you do. Good luck in the future
Glad to have been of service!
Great video. You answered all questions that raised during watching the video :) A switch in-between those wires might be a good addition, but I would keep them connected to button, so the "wake-up" can happen by the hack microswitch or by the main button at the same time.
Exactamundo!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing this knowledge, I'm definitely modifying all my tools like this and adding a switch in-between these wires. 👌🏻👌🏻
Sounds great, happy I could help. Would love to see a picture of your added switch, perhaps you can post an imgur link in reply once you've done the hack. Cheers!
But where to place the switch? under the battery slide makes no sense, maybe a push button is possible just to short for a second
Nice presentation 👍
Hello, where can you buy a control unit for this impact model? It burned down and I can't find a new one.
A very big thank you for solving the problem. Your videos are very good. Technically with a large foundation. Just thank you. Maybe you can analyse the middle connection, the control line on the device. That still seems to be a big secret. Thank you. Stay healthy.
I explain the T pin in this video, "ANALYSIS Parkside 21700 battery and SMART charger: PAPS 204 and PLGS 2012", from 10:00. Basically it is the BATTERY_OK pin, when the battery is working OK, that pin is connected by 10k to ground. If there is a problem, battery overdischarged, overcurrent, cells unbalanced, overtemp, the pin goes open. In the tools is usually a voltage divider, 5V-10k-battery T pin-10k-GND, and the MCU senses the voltage after that first 10k resistor, if 2.5V (meaning that the 10k in the battery is connected to ground) the tool is happy and runs, it if measures 5V, that means the T pin is open, and it stops the tool! Cheers!
Excelente trabalho, muito obrigado. Agora eu pergunto e se o motor não funcionar?
Tank you. I had the same problem
I've had issues with the previous-gen device, where the device fails to go asleep because the trigger is too sensitive, and something in my toolbox slightly bumps the trigger. I noticed this, as the battery is empty the next morning and the white LED is on. My workaround is to unplug the battery every evening, before putting the drill-driver in a tool-chest.
I would be happy to have the sleep-mode "feature" - although I understand why it may be annoying sometimes.
Good job buddy.
by the way, I liked the intro very much
Hahaha glad you did, it took a bit of work getting right :)
Good job man. :)
Very cool intro 👏
I have problem: I push and hold triger after 1sec turn on led light and after this si nothing. I didnt do this hack yet. Two months working and one moment nothing. I did warranty. They sen new and after one month same problem. Have you hear about it already?
Hi, thanks for your teardown and hack! Do you think it'd be possible to shift the safety PCB traces so that the two trigger brushes short pins 4 and 5 even with a light pull? I mean by default you need a deep pull of the trigger because the PCB traces are positioned too deep. But if you could move the traces, pin 4 and 5 would short with a regular pull.
I'm not sure PCB traces can be reworked that easily, especially when they serve as switch contacts. Maybe it's easier to bend/replace the rear brush.
Also, it was unclear from your review video whether you need to pull the trigger deeper or for a longer time or both in order to wake the tool.
Cheers!
Very good ideas, I was playing around with this these last few days, I was thinking to join the middle island to one side and trim it down on the other to make it an easier pull, but there is also like a 1s timeout for startup which ruins that... I'm working on an alternative though, *ahem* 555...
@@GadgetEngineering To be honest, I just got one and I don't find it that annoying but there's definitely half a second before it starts.
Very nice! Thank u so much! So this 5 and 6 wire solder will work for the new 60 and 80nm drills to? There is no need to open the switch right.. also i was wondering.. maybe u can try it on the 60nm drill to? Because that has no led mode selecter.. and so there will be no currentdraw? So no downside to this hack on the 60nm..? Thank u again!
Yes this fix should work on both 60 and 80Nm, I'll check the current draw but yes it would be MUCH less.
@@GadgetEngineering will u upload more vids with this hack on more tools plus if it discharves the battery? I guess batterys will always lose some charge...?
Great Video and Thanks,
I would be very interest if it is possible to somehow bypass overload protection? Thats what is pissing me on version B2 most..
A1 version war running until somethin brakes - screw or bit.. but B2 version, when it feels reasonable resist, it keeps turning off..
Do you know how to solve this issue?
Thank you..
That's a tricky one, changing the firmware is of course impossible, but I think you may be able to access the current sense resistor under the potting, maybe it's close to the surface somewhere, and you could reduce that, probably a 0R1 or something and you could double it up, that would double your overload current. But it would take depotting the PCB to find, and the compound is quite tough, probably kill the experimental board doing that. If somebody volunteers a dead one in the future I could try. Still the protection is there to stop the thing melting down, and I felt the overcurrent really only kick in at low speed (where the hammer doesn't have the momentum to skip over the anvil) any time you just pull the trigger a bit harder I couldn't get it to stall. Just make sure you're running the hammer fast enough, it won't stall, and draw locked rotor amps, which triggers the overload.
@@GadgetEngineering Hi, you could also setup a Paypal donate so that you could collect money from us to buy a second tool to experiment with the control board. The overcurrent protection is way too sensitive. When you are in 226 mode and the screw doesn't start turning immideately, than the tool stops. Also when the screw turns slowly or stops. This happens only on tthe 226 mode, but it is very annoying. You can see towards the end of the video: th-cam.com/video/Dlwc5uQ9cVo/w-d-xo.html
Hello mate, I have a couple of tools that are popping in the parkside app “Error 8 Device overcurrent protection”, have you ever met this error? Any ideea if the tools can be fixed or are they good to scrap? Thanks!
Nice - and i even don´t have this drills lol
I like the way you explain things, very easy to understand :) why do Parkside having this pause safety function ? None of the Prof tools have this function. Perhaps only amateur need this "safety" function, but its just annoying, LOL, normally with other tools you lock the trigger by putting the direction switch in the middle position... does Parkside have this option ?
On many tools it does! Lidl is not manufacturer. Pakside is not OEM. It is only marketing trick to flock people to Lidl! But it is usualy good value for money comparing to others!
sure it's good value for money for casual usage.
Yes, you can set the 'gear' to neutral/middle and lock up the trigger. This was just some engineer/programmer thinking about all the thing he could to to make things 'better', but who probably never used an impact in his life...
With the battery installed when I measure the cut wires yellow and blue I have 7.8v blue is plus is it the same with you but again the drill does not work
And on the LED light I have 19.6v now the bulb doesn't work anymore is that OK
Yellow or Blue! :D The new insider joke 💌
Can you try to fix problem with cutting power on last gear (226Nm)?
Apparently you are very familiar with the functioning of the PDSSAP 20 B2.
Your video shows exactly that.
I own one of these tools since about a year. I am pretty satisfied with its performance, it has enough power to fulfill my demands.
Recently, a problem occured. When i pull the trigger, the motor doesn't respond. The led and the torque indicator light up, but the motor does not respond at all.
Since you have been able to dissect the entire tool from top to bottom, i was wondering if you have any clue to give me, in order to solve this malfunctioning on my power tool.
It is still under warranty, but the point is that if i return it, they'll simply give me a refund and not a new replacement tool, and i really would like to keep it.
Thanks in advance.
Nice intro, and very informative video. Easy hack, but personally I think it's not necessary.. If you want to have 5 years warranty, it is not a good idea to cut the wires. But nice job anyway..👍
I agree, some people just have to have the quick response it seems. I wouldn't worry about the warranty, I don't think Grizzly/OWIM ever take the tools apart, just toss them into the eWaste pile and hand you a new one...
maybe add a hobbyist lipo alarm for 5s lipos? it should run a piezo beeper in the handle and signal battery low too :-p
THANK YOU FOR THIS MOD!
It would be nice to connect wires 4 and 5 to rotation selector so for example right rotation will ne hack on and left rotation will be hack off.
In the trigger you have a linear potentiometer and a switch
Salve, prima di tutto voglio dirti grazie per aver condiviso questo trucco. Posso avere sottotitoli in italiano? Grazie
22:35 How about installing a "mains" switch somewhere on the tool?
Hallo maby you can help me I can't find pcb for this machine any idea???
better option would be to take the switch apart and connect one of the metallic strip on left with middle one. that way when you press the button little it will make the contact sooner and you'd have the driver working straightaway. this eliminates all the messy cutting.
That was an idea I tried, but there is a 1 second timeout from trigger detection to AWAKE, so even pressing the trigger lightly, you still have a very noticeable delay... Also opening the switch is quite fumbly, and you risk breaking the little clips, possibly damaging the function. Good thinking though :)
@@GadgetEngineering that sucks, second option would be to stick a push button switch under the trigger so it makes contact soon as you press. this doesn't eliminate the cutting and soldering sadly but at least the unit will work without any obvious mod from outside, keeping the look factory. also it will help in the warranty situation in case if lidl ever asked for the unit back.
Perhaps there is a way to extent the 40 sec pause mode ? Changing some resistors...
I fear not, the timeout is in software on the MCU :(
So there is no need to disassemble the trigger, as you discovered which pins from the PCB are 1-6. So you cut the wires according to the pin out, and NOT by the color as this will vary because of the random colors.
Exactly! Easiest is to follow the wire order on the connector that goes to the PCB.
Why dont you install the microswitch directly to the trigger? So if you pull the trigger, it wont go to sLeep mode
I don't quite understand where you'd want to mount the microswitch, it already resets its 40s sleep timeout on every motor start, the switch would have to be set ON constantly during use, and then turned off when done using the tool, to let it sleep and not drain battery, you couldn't get that actuation attaching it to the trigger itself.
Howdy! I bought two smart 4A batteries, and one of them was left with the red and green LEDs on, while I was doing a firmware update in the application. What can I do to get him out of this state? (I mention that every time I access the application, it tells me that it found an update, always the same, that the installation was successful, after which it is a communication problem with the device and it does not show me anything about this battery, which when it sees on, when off ...)
In the application it says that on charging, although it is not. I reset the battery in the application and in vain. I innervated all possible options in vain. I think you can solve this problem. Greetings, and good health.
You can't do anything about it, I've seen a lot of people with this problem, return it if you can..
Hmm, did you try holding the button on the battery for 5s and 10s, does anything happen in this case? If not, it sounds like the micro is stuck in a loop, it needs reset, you'd have to open the battery, unsolder either the first or last battery contact from the board (0V or 21V) that would reset the micro, unsolder the 5V regulator or any in series resistor, or maybe short the 5V output from the regulator after the resistor (hopefully 5V out-1k resistor-MCU Vcc pin, so you don't fry the regulator with too much current) to ground, that would temporarily pull down the 5V rail and reset everything. This is the same situation as my Silvercrest powerbank fix, one of my first videos, where it was 'bricked' and I had to reset it like this. But the easiest thing would be to return and buy a new one, if you have access to an online store, If you only had it as a special in store and you still want to have both, and can't buy any more, I'd try and fix it. Did anything happen during the firmware update, lose connection, or something, or it 'just' happened? Let me know if you need any more help!
Thanks for the reply and I will follow your advice. I wish you good health.👍
👏👏👏👍
Passk 20 li B2 Nm change doesn't work can you help me.
Merci, donc le problème se situe au niveau de la carte électronique qui permet de sélectionner les puissances.
La mienne tourne environ 15 secondes ou moins, quand on veut la faire tourner dans le sens de vissage, et à vide! Elle est neuve je viens de l’acheter.
Exactement! Je comprend pas exactement ce que tu veux dire, elle s'eteint apres de 15 s en tourant ou quoi? Normalment il y a 40s de temps libre si on touche rien avant de l'extinction.
@@GadgetEngineering i try in english.
When i clip on the battery, every forces works great 120/150/190. Just 226nm is an issue.
If i press the switch on to the max without any load, the machine spin in max for 5/13/18 seconds in clock wise.
But every well in otherwise (left spining).
When i screw a very big screw in hood, the machine cut every 5 seconds, and unscrew is identical.
I hope you understand what i mean. Thanks.
Note: the cuts are less criticals with a 4ah battery 20v team Bluetooth.
Thanks
Entonces cuál es la la solución que podríamos hacer para el problema de apagado ?
Pues como mostre en el video a partir de 16:00, hacer cortocircuito los cables 4 y 5, asi la herramienta se queda siempre encendida, a costa de un constante gasto de batteria de 25mA siempre cuando esta concetado a la batteria...
@@GadgetEngineering muchas gracias por responder yo me refería a cuando se apaga mientras estas atornillando
There seems to also have a "safe mode" kicking in when the tool is somewhat overloaded. This is not the case with the first model.
Try and loosen a car wheel nut or screw in a relatively large screw, and see what I'm talking about.
It simply shuts down and either turns on again only after you release the switch, or simply stays off until you remove the battery.
Putting in another switch to switch the trigger switch, haha...
I know lol!
01:05 super glue removed = guarantee voided. ha.. ha..
Podrías hacer esto en este modelo?
th-cam.com/video/BII2uXiqXc4/w-d-xo.html
Si senor estoy en ello, para la semana siguiente estara! Saludos
Crap.
Splendid😍!! Become an online boss - Promo'SM.