For the front CV's, you can try converting to the original V1 style that use the blades. These are much stronger and also a lot cheaper than the ball bearing type. I'd say this is worthwhile, especially for a relatively tight indoor track with hard barriers. The 2pc ball studs are a pain, but i've never had issues with them backing out. I also prefer not using thread lock on them. As you showed, you need to be mindful of how far the set screw goes into the hub. I thread the 6mm ball on, then back it off 1/4 turn. I then adjust the engagement of the set screw by backing it out about 1/4 turn or so out of the hub. Then tighten the 6mm... you have to play with it a little, but you will get a feel for how to do this so the set screw ends up flush with the inside and 6mm is tight. As an alternative, you can get the 1pc titanium ball studs, available from T-Works or Officina. Search TP-132B on T-Works.
Make sure to put lock tight on them. Also, you have to make sure that you change out that grub screw depending on how many shims you are using. I have had it happen in the past. I use the v1 driveshafts on the front, because of the hollow axle and the e clips.
You did whack that corner at the end of the strait a few laps in. You're cutting the corners too tight but that's the risk you take in stock. Get every millimeter of an advantage you can😊
Yes I did. I need a car setup that can take a few hits like that and keep on going. I’ve tried a few things to improve that grub hub and ball connection but it keeps failing. Updates will be shown at next race video. Reliability mods in progress.
For the front CV's, you can try converting to the original V1 style that use the blades. These are much stronger and also a lot cheaper than the ball bearing type. I'd say this is worthwhile, especially for a relatively tight indoor track with hard barriers.
The 2pc ball studs are a pain, but i've never had issues with them backing out. I also prefer not using thread lock on them. As you showed, you need to be mindful of how far the set screw goes into the hub. I thread the 6mm ball on, then back it off 1/4 turn. I then adjust the engagement of the set screw by backing it out about 1/4 turn or so out of the hub. Then tighten the 6mm... you have to play with it a little, but you will get a feel for how to do this so the set screw ends up flush with the inside and 6mm is tight.
As an alternative, you can get the 1pc titanium ball studs, available from T-Works or Officina. Search TP-132B on T-Works.
Nice run....hate those new car problems.....looked good.....😎👍
Make sure to put lock tight on them. Also, you have to make sure that you change out that grub screw depending on how many shims you are using. I have had it happen in the past. I use the v1 driveshafts on the front, because of the hollow axle and the e clips.
Grind the end off the front drive shafts, making sure they stick out further than the wheels.
You did whack that corner at the end of the strait a few laps in.
You're cutting the corners too tight but that's the risk you take in stock. Get every millimeter of an advantage you can😊
Yes I did. I need a car setup that can take a few hits like that and keep on going. I’ve tried a few things to improve that grub hub and ball connection but it keeps failing. Updates will be shown at next race video. Reliability mods in progress.
@@netcruzer sweet!!!
I got your fix get an xray x4 lol😂