Just bought a b7 kit for my first “race” car. Definitely recommend it. I enjoyed building it more than I expected, plus i know exactly where every nut and bolt goes on the car now
Pretty cool video! I liked the background music you chose for this one a lot. I started out buying a ready to run vehicle and got into racing that way. I looked at a lot of brands to see what was out there and asked people at the local track what was supported and commonly used. Team associated was almost universally suggested, so that's what I went with when I bought my ready to run buggy. Thing is, I am too curious for my own good, and I like to tinker with things to figure out how they work. So I dismantled my ready to run car and put it back together within the first week of owning it. It's funny to me because I went through figuring out my ready to run buggy and probably should have just bought an unassembled kit and learned that way.
2:15 - TOTALLY agree that a wheeler is easier to drive on clay and dirt, but on carpet its a LOT to handle. the weight/ traction rolling, the steering on power when the front wheels grip up. the lack of rotation (without decoupled front brakes). the power of a 13.5. I found 2wd far easier on black carpet. great video as usual!
Thanks for the work you put into these videos! I'm in the process of building up an MSB1 as a test platform (I'm a bad driver who goes to the track to tinker with the cars), and I'll say that I'm extremely impressed with its build quality. I haven't gotten it on track yet (My home track is Hobby Action), but I think it'll be more durable for those who are crashing a lot in the beginning. My other buggies are Associated (B6.2, B74.1), and while they are very durable (haven't broken anything of note yet) - I really like Mugen's design philosophy. As far as parts support - I'm lucky - Hobby Action stocks every part locally, and a few Mugen sponsored drivers club race there on the regular.
Bent the nose on my B7 chassis last week. I did smack the post back straight wall while flying though. Broke a battery holder arm in the process as well. My lack of skill and just getting back into RC racing cost me. Still fun 🤟🏻
Very good and informative video as always! Next time I upgrade it will probably be an MSB1, have RB7 today but as you mentioned in your video it is hard to change diffoil on.
In the 2wd stadium truck the lcg battery made the whole truck drive better on sealed clay. Running lcg made all of my associated cars drive better for me. Kinda bummed about TLR right now. Gotta have your evo to your sti. The mugen plastics are really good and feel a lot better than associated. If you got the wallet you can always go xray. Dig the stache😎
I don't have 1/10 scale tracks anywhere near me. I watch those vids cos I like to learn what other RC enjoyers are into. I gave up 1/10 bashing cos reasons and if I will ever try 1/10 racing its gonna be 4wd. If I can ever save up $650 for a 4wd Truggy chassis. Huge IF.
Mate, I'm not a racer, but I would love to try it, im more of a wrencher. I find your videos very informative, well presented and relaxing. Keep up the good work.
Excellent video, thanks! Been considering racing for a long time. I mostly just bash/trail/climb with my random scaled rigs. I only own one 1/10 rc, and it's a drifter, so a racing 1/10 is kind of my next rc learning experience. I love the quality of your videos. They are clean, concise, and well presented. I subscribed on this video, for what that's worth. Please keep up the phenomenal work, and thanks for your insights!
Do all bodies have to have the same paint design: rips or tears or flames or paint drips, running front-to-back, super busy, with 3+ colors? It's kinda shocking when you see a race buggy that doesn't have that same scheme. I kinda wonder if it's a subconscious strategy to blend in with the group. Just thought that was interesting.
Most of the bodies from pro painters, while AMAZING work, arent super unique. rips or tears or flames or paint drips are all there is. its not about a subconscious strategy, its very much on purpose. Painters dont have time to go back and forth with you for 5 weeks coming up with a livery, they have a massive backlog and that just isn't practical. pick 3 colors. pick tears, flames, or paint drips. what panels do you want a hex pattern on, ship it. oh, add cartoon/comic "cell shaded" boarderlands lines to the list as well.
Seems like everyone paints their first car blue. I currently have green with flames but I bought it used and it was already painted. Personally, I would have just gone with the brightest color I could just to make it easy to see
Learned a lot from your vidoes, thank you. I was wondering if you have tried PR racing 2wd buggies (s1 v4), are they competitive? The price of this car really attracts me.
I'm too nervous to start racing. I had a bad experience when I was 15 years old racing on road oval at a track. I worked really hard doing paper routes working at a gas station and going to school. I bought a carbon fiber oval pan car with nascar body. It was lots of money for a kid in school. After about 4 weeks of racing I was never able to finish laps car would not drive well. A racer approached me who was trying to give me advice but then said he would take the car home fix it and get it dialed for me. Well, weeks went by he was always racing and making excuses why the car was not done. A few months passed and then he started denying he had the RC car. I finally got the police involved and he still tried to say he never got an RC car from me. His race buddies would not get involved and say they knew nothing. I'm 15 and this guy was 45 years old. Well, we found it for sale on RC Groups with the same mellow yellow body. I called the police again and had a friend go pretend to buy it and they then arrested him on the spot. That was the last time ever raced. This was back in 2014
@@RoachRC This was In the Bay Area California a place called Sanction Hobby that no longer exists. It went out of business because he never transitioned to selling products online from what I heard.
2 months late to reply, but if you still need another answer, the TLR 22 5.0 AC or DC with diff conversion is a good choice as well. Alternatively, if you want to run something "different" still with good parts support... The B6.4 is still rock solid for club racing, nothing wrong with it at all still. A lot of the racers in my area still favor the 6.4 over the 7 right now due to the growing pains of the new chassis.
I never ever been into race..im a newbie...but what if stock spec..and as well as mod spec...what is the typical motor they use mostly for the competition..in terms for buggy 1/10 dirt clay track..
Well if you're doing stock 2wd than 21.5 or 17.5 motors are the standard. Best way to figure it out though would be to go to your local track and see what they're running
Great video..almost a perfect where to start with a sprinkling of pro tips,,,,BUT, YOU you ruin it. Though the footage is almost track conquering perfection- you are talking components, RC kits, cars.....you talk about High Voltage Shorty packs...but.....show us the damn HV Shorties! Show us the MOD Speck, the Stock Speck..the Dirt Speck.... show us what a carpet track looks like, a clay track....show us the Yokomo- show us what the 5mm battery connectors look like.. show us what a buggy with a low CG looks like. You don't have to change the dialogue.....just take this audio and dub it over a version where the items discussed are presented to the viewer. On a serious note, do yourself and the hobby a good service and re-do this- almost perfect- starter video. For real. Gratitude will pour in from those starting out, or even those already involved but maybe, now from this video know how to distinguish different motors and knows the basics of what the numbers mean..... or what a low profile motor looks like....Please.
Team Associated is developed buy a Taiwanese company and that company is thunder tiger. I don't know if you guys know anything about Thunder Tiger but I would rather race a horizon hobby product. Horizon is the leader, not thunder tiger. Associated guys need to wake up. It's always been this way from the very beginning. The blue anodized bits, as a European would call it, is thunder Tiger. What happened to the gunmetal anodizing socks, and the gold aluminum parts? It's not there anymore, now it's blue because it's a Thunder Tiger product... good grief
TLR is badly in need of updating. At our local track, the fastest cars are B7'S, but absolutely everybody Has them, which makes me want something different
Stop perpetuating this Schumacher’s are fragile mindset. I’ve been running the LD3 since its release and the only thing I’ve broken is a steering yoke. 4 1/2 months on a dirt track as a relatively new driver. The car isn’t fragile. I’ve also been running the L1R for almost the same amount of time and broken nothing on it. Please stop with the fragile nonsense.
Thanks for the shout out! Love the vids.
Just bought a b7 kit for my first “race” car. Definitely recommend it. I enjoyed building it more than I expected, plus i know exactly where every nut and bolt goes on the car now
Pretty cool video! I liked the background music you chose for this one a lot.
I started out buying a ready to run vehicle and got into racing that way. I looked at a lot of brands to see what was out there and asked people at the local track what was supported and commonly used. Team associated was almost universally suggested, so that's what I went with when I bought my ready to run buggy. Thing is, I am too curious for my own good, and I like to tinker with things to figure out how they work. So I dismantled my ready to run car and put it back together within the first week of owning it.
It's funny to me because I went through figuring out my ready to run buggy and probably should have just bought an unassembled kit and learned that way.
2:15 - TOTALLY agree that a wheeler is easier to drive on clay and dirt, but on carpet its a LOT to handle. the weight/ traction rolling, the steering on power when the front wheels grip up. the lack of rotation (without decoupled front brakes). the power of a 13.5. I found 2wd far easier on black carpet.
great video as usual!
You have to admire a guy that has a soldering iron next to his bed :) Just starting in RC, thanks for the videos man
I only run LCG batteries in my stadium truck they work great. I’m sitting at 1725g on a T6.2 with carbon fiber chassis running off-road carpet.
Thanks for the work you put into these videos! I'm in the process of building up an MSB1 as a test platform (I'm a bad driver who goes to the track to tinker with the cars), and I'll say that I'm extremely impressed with its build quality. I haven't gotten it on track yet (My home track is Hobby Action), but I think it'll be more durable for those who are crashing a lot in the beginning. My other buggies are Associated (B6.2, B74.1), and while they are very durable (haven't broken anything of note yet) - I really like Mugen's design philosophy. As far as parts support - I'm lucky - Hobby Action stocks every part locally, and a few Mugen sponsored drivers club race there on the regular.
Bent the nose on my B7 chassis last week. I did smack the post back straight wall while flying though. Broke a battery holder arm in the process as well. My lack of skill and just getting back into RC racing cost me. Still fun 🤟🏻
Very good and informative video as always! Next time I upgrade it will probably be an MSB1, have RB7 today but as you mentioned in your video it is hard to change diffoil on.
In the 2wd stadium truck the lcg battery made the whole truck drive better on sealed clay. Running lcg made all of my associated cars drive better for me. Kinda bummed about TLR right now. Gotta have your evo to your sti. The mugen plastics are really good and feel a lot better than associated. If you got the wallet you can always go xray. Dig the stache😎
Thanks for the feature! Great videos as always.
I don't have 1/10 scale tracks anywhere near me. I watch those vids cos I like to learn what other RC enjoyers are into. I gave up 1/10 bashing cos reasons and if I will ever try 1/10 racing its gonna be 4wd. If I can ever save up $650 for a 4wd Truggy chassis. Huge IF.
Yeahhh shout out to the man, MSM! Great video Cade!!!
Mate, I'm not a racer, but I would love to try it, im more of a wrencher. I find your videos very informative, well presented and relaxing.
Keep up the good work.
Excellent video, thanks! Been considering racing for a long time. I mostly just bash/trail/climb with my random scaled rigs. I only own one 1/10 rc, and it's a drifter, so a racing 1/10 is kind of my next rc learning experience.
I love the quality of your videos. They are clean, concise, and well presented. I subscribed on this video, for what that's worth. Please keep up the phenomenal work, and thanks for your insights!
Do all bodies have to have the same paint design: rips or tears or flames or paint drips, running front-to-back, super busy, with 3+ colors? It's kinda shocking when you see a race buggy that doesn't have that same scheme. I kinda wonder if it's a subconscious strategy to blend in with the group. Just thought that was interesting.
Most of the bodies from pro painters, while AMAZING work, arent super unique. rips or tears or flames or paint drips are all there is. its not about a subconscious strategy, its very much on purpose. Painters dont have time to go back and forth with you for 5 weeks coming up with a livery, they have a massive backlog and that just isn't practical. pick 3 colors. pick tears, flames, or paint drips. what panels do you want a hex pattern on, ship it.
oh, add cartoon/comic "cell shaded" boarderlands lines to the list as well.
Think...Zebras.
Seems like everyone paints their first car blue.
I currently have green with flames but I bought it used and it was already painted. Personally, I would have just gone with the brightest color I could just to make it easy to see
Learned a lot from your vidoes, thank you. I was wondering if you have tried PR racing 2wd buggies (s1 v4), are they competitive? The price of this car really attracts me.
They are. I haven't tried them myself, but they do pretty well out on the west coast and south east Asia
What do you think about a taem losi 22 5.0 roller? Would it be a good first car?
If people at your track use TLR, yes it would be.
@@RoachRC ok!
I'm too nervous to start racing. I had a bad experience when I was 15 years old racing on road oval at a track. I worked really hard doing paper routes working at a gas station and going to school. I bought a carbon fiber oval pan car with nascar body. It was lots of money for a kid in school. After about 4 weeks of racing I was never able to finish laps car would not drive well. A racer approached me who was trying to give me advice but then said he would take the car home fix it and get it dialed for me. Well, weeks went by he was always racing and making excuses why the car was not done. A few months passed and then he started denying he had the RC car. I finally got the police involved and he still tried to say he never got an RC car from me. His race buddies would not get involved and say they knew nothing. I'm 15 and this guy was 45 years old. Well, we found it for sale on RC Groups with the same mellow yellow body. I called the police again and had a friend go pretend to buy it and they then arrested him on the spot. That was the last time ever raced. This was back in 2014
What place was this?
All the more reason to come back and kick some azz…!😎🦾 adapt improvised. Overcome fear is not real. It’s a mindset. So just win 🏆
@@RoachRC This was In the Bay Area California a place called Sanction Hobby that no longer exists. It went out of business because he never transitioned to selling products online from what I heard.
@@RoryHollarTURTLERCRACING I plan to go check out Amain Hobbies. I hear they are good people and have nice off-road tracks. Thanks. bro!
What 2024 2wd model is the best
Probably the Mugen Msb1
@@RoachRC Thanks
If you were gonna buy a 2wd car but wanted something besides a B7, what would you buy?
Mugen msb1 is what I'd buy over the b7
@@RoachRC Thanks, everyone at the local track has a B7 so I'd kinda like something different but I want something competitive as well
2 months late to reply, but if you still need another answer, the TLR 22 5.0 AC or DC with diff conversion is a good choice as well. Alternatively, if you want to run something "different" still with good parts support... The B6.4 is still rock solid for club racing, nothing wrong with it at all still. A lot of the racers in my area still favor the 6.4 over the 7 right now due to the growing pains of the new chassis.
Love my new stado, but 2wd buggy is just so much stronger, less breakages
What is the best motor ( turn and kv ) for dirt clay track buggy.. 1/10 scale..
Are you running mod or stock? 4wd or 2wd?
I never ever been into race..im a newbie...but what if stock spec..and as well as mod spec...what is the typical motor they use mostly for the competition..in terms for buggy 1/10 dirt clay track..
Well if you're doing stock 2wd than 21.5 or 17.5 motors are the standard. Best way to figure it out though would be to go to your local track and see what they're running
Great video..almost a perfect where to start with a sprinkling of pro tips,,,,BUT, YOU you ruin it. Though the footage is almost track conquering perfection- you are talking components, RC kits, cars.....you talk about High Voltage Shorty packs...but.....show us the damn HV Shorties! Show us the MOD Speck, the Stock Speck..the Dirt Speck.... show us what a carpet track looks like, a clay track....show us the Yokomo- show us what the 5mm battery connectors look like.. show us what a buggy with a low CG looks like. You don't have to change the dialogue.....just take this audio and dub it over a version where the items discussed are presented to the viewer.
On a serious note, do yourself and the hobby a good service and re-do this- almost perfect- starter video. For real. Gratitude will pour in from those starting out, or even those already involved but maybe, now from this video know how to distinguish different motors and knows the basics of what the numbers mean..... or what a low profile motor looks like....Please.
Okie
You sound exactly like skeeter from to catch a predator. Awesome vids btw.
Team Associated is developed buy a Taiwanese company and that company is thunder tiger. I don't know if you guys know anything about Thunder Tiger but I would rather race a horizon hobby product. Horizon is the leader, not thunder tiger. Associated guys need to wake up. It's always been this way from the very beginning. The blue anodized bits, as a European would call it, is thunder Tiger. What happened to the gunmetal anodizing socks, and the gold aluminum parts? It's not there anymore, now it's blue because it's a Thunder Tiger product... good grief
Hmm
Horizon Hobbies is definitely not the leading manufacturer is RC racing 😂😂😂😂😂😂
TLR is badly in need of updating. At our local track, the fastest cars are B7'S, but absolutely everybody Has them, which makes me want something different
Stop perpetuating this Schumacher’s are fragile mindset. I’ve been running the LD3 since its release and the only thing I’ve broken is a steering yoke. 4 1/2 months on a dirt track as a relatively new driver. The car isn’t fragile. I’ve also been running the L1R for almost the same amount of time and broken nothing on it. Please stop with the fragile nonsense.
My ld2 stock spec has its loose bolt issue but that's about it
Granted the whole car is carbon including the arms