Awesome... Things will change around here a bit. Shorter presentations, less rambling, lots of free content with more in depth tutorials on my patreon account. This series will be still entirely green though. Cheers
Hi, this video really hit the spot. What is the wood that you are using? Also, some of the final cuts with the axe seemed to call out for knife work. Were you simply trying to show how versatile the axe can be, or do you usually do all of the blank with the axe?
Cheers... It's beech, which is great for handles, however, literally every dry hardwood is usable in my opinion. Tried and tested. This axe is shaving sharp. A laminated and hammer forged axe from Denmark. It is basically a plane as well with the wide straight bevels. I can't do some nice final cuts across the whole width that would be tough with a knife. There will be several more parts also of course about knife finishing. Thanks for watching and the support!
@@woodsmansfinest3814 Would you include oak as being suitable; I thought the tannin can react with the steel? It is a lovely axe; I have a Gransfors carving axe and appreciate how one can use it as a knife or plane. Your axe looks a good bit lighter than mine. I'm looking forward to the follow ups as I am on Nic Westermann's waiting list.
@@RiemannFan most woods have tannin... The knife will certainly outlive all of us. Use it! I got so many axes and love them all. I use them professionally every day so I need a variety to not overly strain my joints. You can find a video about this very one.
I like it dry so I can get a nicer finish and then keep going right away, but you can carve it like a spoon. Rough carve it to 85%, let it cure a few days to weeks in a paper bag and then finish carve it. Cheers
Great job, and thanks for posting ... that is some very fine axe work and they'd have to be screaming sharp to do all of that! My question is, where can I buy the pen and finger gauge set?! Keep up the good work.
Great idea... As a knife maker I agree. For most people that is not an option as the tang is annealed and soft so it would be unfit if you don't have a heat treat setup which is made harder by being a laminated blade. Cheers for the input though
Приветствую мастеровых! Вот это я понимаю, мастер, нет Мастер! Даже рубанком не воспользовался, одним топором ручку вытесал, ну ладно двумя )) Формы лезвия и рукояти довольно редко встречаются, видать для узкоспециальных работ и больстер отсутствует, похоже нагрузок не будет. Вангую для кожевенных работ.
Enjoyed it ,Max !
Awesome... Things will change around here a bit. Shorter presentations, less rambling, lots of free content with more in depth tutorials on my patreon account. This series will be still entirely green though. Cheers
Hi Max here from land of the sleeping ,Thanks for the great Video. Cheers Mate.
Welcome back! Thanks mate! Lots to come!
Very enjoyable and informative. Thanks.
Cheers! Means a lot!
This is excellent! I subscribe!
Much obliged! Lovely to hear!
Hi, this video really hit the spot. What is the wood that you are using? Also, some of the final cuts with the axe seemed to call out for knife work. Were you simply trying to show how versatile the axe can be, or do you usually do all of the blank with the axe?
Cheers... It's beech, which is great for handles, however, literally every dry hardwood is usable in my opinion. Tried and tested. This axe is shaving sharp. A laminated and hammer forged axe from Denmark. It is basically a plane as well with the wide straight bevels. I can't do some nice final cuts across the whole width that would be tough with a knife. There will be several more parts also of course about knife finishing. Thanks for watching and the support!
@@woodsmansfinest3814 Would you include oak as being suitable; I thought the tannin can react with the steel? It is a lovely axe; I have a Gransfors carving axe and appreciate how one can use it as a knife or plane. Your axe looks a good bit lighter than mine. I'm looking forward to the follow ups as I am on Nic Westermann's waiting list.
@@RiemannFan most woods have tannin... The knife will certainly outlive all of us. Use it! I got so many axes and love them all. I use them professionally every day so I need a variety to not overly strain my joints. You can find a video about this very one.
You say use dry wood. Is it ok to green carve the handle or is it better dry?
I like it dry so I can get a nicer finish and then keep going right away, but you can carve it like a spoon. Rough carve it to 85%, let it cure a few days to weeks in a paper bag and then finish carve it. Cheers
Woodsmans Finest thank you!
Great job, and thanks for posting ... that is some very fine axe work and they'd have to be screaming sharp to do all of that! My question is, where can I buy the pen and finger gauge set?! Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the kind words... What finger gouge set are You talking about? Happy to help!
Thank you for doing this video! It was very clear and helpful. Do you think I could use a kukhuri (traditional Nepali Knife) instead of an axe?
Be creative... Try whatever you want. Cheers
Woodsmans Finest ok. Thanks!
In part 2, retain the piece of tang. Good steel for a kolrosing or chip carving knife!
Great idea... As a knife maker I agree. For most people that is not an option as the tang is annealed and soft so it would be unfit if you don't have a heat treat setup which is made harder by being a laminated blade. Cheers for the input though
👍
Thanks a lot!
Hi, I enjoyed the video. Good format and editing. I'd prefer it without the music, however.
Cheers... I hear ya... I personally like both and will probably switch back and forth. Thanks for the feedback.
In my first work I always used Woodglut plans.
Приветствую мастеровых!
Вот это я понимаю, мастер, нет Мастер! Даже рубанком не воспользовался, одним топором ручку вытесал, ну ладно двумя )) Формы лезвия и рукояти довольно редко встречаются, видать для узкоспециальных работ и больстер отсутствует, похоже нагрузок не будет. Вангую для кожевенных работ.
Sorry, I dont speak russian
Sorry