A few corrections. A closed system oil separator will have a vacuum pull to have negative pressure in the crank case which actually improves efficiencies, giving marginal fuel saving gains. This is what you have called a catch can. It connects on one end at the crank case vent port. Then connects to the catch can, then goes to the air intake system where it gets a negative pull, vacuum. In certain application such as over boosted engines. Or engines with bad compression in the cylinders from bad piston rings. A closed system can cause problems. Due to such higher than normal pressure in the crank case with then a vacuum being used to vent the crank case... it winds up pulling oil out of the block in liquid form rather than oil vapors. Closed system catch cans are designed to vacuum the vapors our of a crank case, not liquids. The crankcase that sees to Mich pressure is already ready to squirt it's liquid in any direction. Having a vacuum simply points the oil in the most easily to escape the engine direction. Open system. The filtered cylinder you have there is more of a degasser than an oil separator. You want the vapor/gas pressures from inside the crankcase to get out but they're bringing liquid oil with them. You degas the mix from the crankcase allowing the vapor to vent to atmosphere and the oils to settle back into your oil pan. I'll look over a few of your videos to see what the build is about... but at this point I'd say you misinformed a few people on the applications of those cans and you may have a couple people put the open systems in place where really a closed system belongs. They have specific uses. Ideally the car is build well enough not to need an open system. You will want to do some research into dry sump oil systems. Heavily boosted cars don't use catch cans be they opened or closed. They use multi staged dry oil sump systems. Will post a link to a Papadakis racing video for you on the subject of dry sumps for boost power. Lastly depending what your other videos are.. you might want to do a compression test on the engine if the exhaust out the tail pipe has blue smoke. Thank you for being a sharer of content! Humble or not it was well presented.
@@ehrenleleski8204 that would cost more per engine for the manufacturer. It's basically adding to engineered obsolescence by making a cheaper engine that will not last as long as a slightly more expensive engine which is designed in a superior way for longevity. People put up with crap so they sell crap. Seems only the special interest groups nagging the gov for better emissions is the reason for fuel efficient cars. Longevity is not as important as the efficiency it provides when new.
I have a Lincoln MKS Eco-boost sedan. I talked to my mechanic yesterday about this since I've learned that any direct fuel injection should have a catch can. I was told use a catch can not a breather because with a breather you lose vacuum and they can also mess up a smog check. I made the decision of a catch can for mine. Also have found other videos of Ford trucks that have the Eco-boost engine in them as well using a catch can.
By Watching your channel you inspired me to get a project car. And today I picked up a 1993 Toyota Corolla. The projects begins now. Keep up the work the future is bright
breather tanks don't prevent crankcase pressure they lower the pressure by releasing it directly to the atmosphere. The pressure pushes its way out the easiest way it can which is through the breather instead of your seals and gaskets. Oil catch cans are used inline with your PCV valve. Some people use them as a PCV system. So negative pressure is put on the crankcase meaning air is being sucked out. If you apply enough negative pressure on your crankcase without going overboard you can actually increase HP. BMW and VW owners do this all the time. Get rid of the CCV (air oil separator) and run a catch can with no Valve. The key to this mod is not running a valve or use one that has a higher flow rate than stock so your intake can suck the air out of the crank before it even has a chance to build up allowing your pistons to move more freely. You'll also see an increase in mpg
Do a side by side comparison test of which type of can collects more oil. Vented or return setup. 2k miles with vented then 2k miles with a return tank. Let’s go!
My catch can vents to the intake. It's technically a sealed system, not vented to the atmosphere, but it still should be reducing crank case pressure, right?
Mmm... I recently bougjt a 2011 Chevy Colorado 2.9L AT n im makin some upgrades and get an oil catch can so im looking to make the best installation n makin sure that this lil can works perfectly Thanx. Bro. Saludos desde Ensenada México 🍀🎶🍻🤙😉
bought a 2 port breather tank for my b16a2 (NA for now-em1), bungs for -10 an fittings on back of block, and -10 an braided lines. My plan is to run both -10an lines to my breather tank and put a filter on the valve cover that connects to the air intake and to plug off the hole on the intake manifold. Do you have any advice on a better plumbing route or what to do with the factory PCV nipple, or can I do what I mentioned and freeze plug the oem pcv breather box location?
I bought my boosted car (modified mazda speed three running 20psi) and it already came with a sealed catch can. Could I make up for it by just installing a vented valve cover breather ?
In order to set it up for drain back u need to get a can that u can run coolant lines to to stop the condensation. So oil in the tank stays relatively warm till it runs into the drain back to stop condensation.
I'm confused. There's a vacuum under my valve cover. I know cuz I got a small hole I it where I'm missing a bolt, it pulls in air nonstop. Is that not normal? Like if I plug the hole there's still gunna be a vacuum in there, so if I add a hose for an oil catch can, how is it not gunna suck air or oil through that hose into valve cover? How is oil or air gunna pass out of my valve cover area into my catch can, if mine is under vacuum. Sorry I probably wrote these questions like a complete idiot. Idk nothing about cars but I'm trying to learn. Been doing some small mods to my cruze last few months really just tryna learn more about how my car actually gets me where I want to go everyday
Awesome video kid ❤️ and it did make me understand how to used either one of these materials and now working on my Ford Mustang and making some great improvement for sure 👍 so keep it up 💪💯
Does the catch can go from the crank case vent port to the catch can and the back to the air intake system? Because it your post reads like you habe an open system (vented) catch can hooked up like a closed system catch can. Good luck!
The only big difference you talk about is that "a breather doesn't catch that much blowby compared to a catch can" which is untrue since you then talk about your breather tank filling up too fast meaning you experienced first hand how much blow by it can catch (more on why your setup fills too quick at the end of my comment), reality is that all types of crankcase ventilation systems catch roughly the same amount of blowby and pressure, difference is what they do with it. Only matters for an emission perspective, an engine health perspective, and a tuning strategy perspective as vent to atmosphere setups like breathers cannot be used with a maf. Catch cans condensate the majority of the oil particulates then gets the finer stuff and the extra pressure sucked back into the intake, which brings us to your other point "catch cans don't really relieve positive crankcase pressure", that's also false, the second outlet of the catch can is plumbed to a part of the intake that sees vaccuum, therefore the extra pressure gets sucked back into the intake. Advantage is compatible with MAF systems, keeps intake clean, good for emissions, can pull slight vaccuum in crankcase therefore increasing piston ring sealing but probably by like 0.01%. Cons are the more complicated tubing compared to vent to atmosphere setups and some blow by still gets in your intake. Breather tanks also condensate the majority of the oil particulates, and relief the rest of blowby and the pressure through a filter on top, vent to atmosphere. Doesn't work for MAF systems, and is releasing all kind of vapours in the atmosphere, but it has the most venting capacity, can keep high boost engines with big ring gaps at 0 crankcase pressure compared to a catch can that wouldn't be able to vent enough, also has the advantage of not recirculating any crap in your engine. Stock crankcase ventilation systems just recirculate the crankcase pressure directly into the intake without even trying to separate the air from the oil and condensation vapors, it only relies on the baffling present in the valve cover to not suck liquid oil into the intake. Best for emissions, don't need to empty a can, compatible with MAF but doesn't work that well with more extreme FI setups that produce more pressure, absolutely the worst when it comes to putting crap back into your engine. The last options are breather filters, they're filters that go directly onto the valve cover, vent the pressure and vapors to atmosphere and like the stock system only rely on the baffling to prevent liquid oil from coming out. Not Compatible with MAF, bad for emissions, requires really good baffling, and cannot cope at all with the extra pressure of FI, only for lower power NA cars that don't produce much blow by. Also I would not recommend draining a catch can or breather tank back into the sump, lots of acidic residue, condensation, and gas that ends up in them and I'd rather not recirculate that through my oiling system, fix the problem at the source : your catch can is filling too fast because your baffling is insufficient.
Wait.. You have it drain back to the engine? why??? the stuff it catches is full of contaminants (ie fuel particles) that neutralizes the oil's lubricating elements.
I realize its an old video and you may have remedied this already.. but you may wanna take a look at that oil you're "draining back into the engine block".. you probably don't want that back in your motor.. that shit is usually full of water/gunk/sludge.. if its filling with oil too quick, you need better baffling. unless that (which appears to just be a moroso breather tank) is actually an air/oil separator..
Bad thing connecting the oil tank to the engine block for draining oil. Probably you haven't seen the sludge that is collected there in a cold winter morning and the black colour of the oil collected there during hot summer days. Trust me, my friend, stop draining that shit inside your engine.
This video is misleading, engines crankcase can never vent to atmosphere if it is a road registered vehicle, so the mere mention of breather tank removes all your credibility, vented to atmosphere where specifically you have removed the PCV vacuum side causes MORE damage to the crankcase and internals than just running the OEM PCV circuit - OEM high power turbo and supercharger cars factory built have all what I have mentioned for emissions control as a sealed system measured by the MAF sensor - venting any part of this disallowing the motor to burn the blowby is so so bad for the enviroment and for air pollution issues globally, frankly Im fucking sick of seeing people modiying any part of the crankcase piping as its like no one knows how to do it correctly
69 views. Perfect😝😝
36K lol
And I'm the 666th like 😂
A few corrections.
A closed system oil separator will have a vacuum pull to have negative pressure in the crank case which actually improves efficiencies, giving marginal fuel saving gains. This is what you have called a catch can. It connects on one end at the crank case vent port. Then connects to the catch can, then goes to the air intake system where it gets a negative pull, vacuum.
In certain application such as over boosted engines. Or engines with bad compression in the cylinders from bad piston rings. A closed system can cause problems. Due to such higher than normal pressure in the crank case with then a vacuum being used to vent the crank case... it winds up pulling oil out of the block in liquid form rather than oil vapors. Closed system catch cans are designed to vacuum the vapors our of a crank case, not liquids. The crankcase that sees to Mich pressure is already ready to squirt it's liquid in any direction. Having a vacuum simply points the oil in the most easily to escape the engine direction.
Open system. The filtered cylinder you have there is more of a degasser than an oil separator. You want the vapor/gas pressures from inside the crankcase to get out but they're bringing liquid oil with them. You degas the mix from the crankcase allowing the vapor to vent to atmosphere and the oils to settle back into your oil pan.
I'll look over a few of your videos to see what the build is about... but at this point I'd say you misinformed a few people on the applications of those cans and you may have a couple people put the open systems in place where really a closed system belongs. They have specific uses. Ideally the car is build well enough not to need an open system.
You will want to do some research into dry sump oil systems. Heavily boosted cars don't use catch cans be they opened or closed. They use multi staged dry oil sump systems. Will post a link to a Papadakis racing video for you on the subject of dry sumps for boost power.
Lastly depending what your other videos are.. you might want to do a compression test on the engine if the exhaust out the tail pipe has blue smoke.
Thank you for being a sharer of content! Humble or not it was well presented.
th-cam.com/video/Ze-quG0nSqA/w-d-xo.html
Papadakis racing going over dry sump oil pump.
th-cam.com/video/XWHvnIKkya4/w-d-xo.html
Papadakisracing showing an oil change on a car with dry sump oil system.
why aren't pcv systems on both valve covers ?
@@ehrenleleski8204 that would cost more per engine for the manufacturer. It's basically adding to engineered obsolescence by making a cheaper engine that will not last as long as a slightly more expensive engine which is designed in a superior way for longevity.
People put up with crap so they sell crap. Seems only the special interest groups nagging the gov for better emissions is the reason for fuel efficient cars. Longevity is not as important as the efficiency it provides when new.
So pretty much don't add breather where there was no breather in the first place right
I have a Lincoln MKS Eco-boost sedan.
I talked to my mechanic yesterday about this since I've learned that any direct fuel injection should have a catch can. I was told use a catch can not a breather because with a breather you lose vacuum and they can also mess up a smog check. I made the decision of a catch can for mine. Also have found other videos of Ford trucks that have the Eco-boost engine in them as well using a catch can.
By Watching your channel you inspired me to get a project car. And today I picked up a 1993 Toyota Corolla. The projects begins now. Keep up the work the future is bright
Alex Checo that’s so awesome!
JOHN this is sick!!
That was honestly super informative, thank you. Looking forward to seeing how the engine bay cleans up
Thanks for making the video, could you not use both?
breather tanks don't prevent crankcase pressure they lower the pressure by releasing it directly to the atmosphere. The pressure pushes its way out the easiest way it can which is through the breather instead of your seals and gaskets. Oil catch cans are used inline with your PCV valve. Some people use them as a PCV system. So negative pressure is put on the crankcase meaning air is being sucked out. If you apply enough negative pressure on your crankcase without going overboard you can actually increase HP. BMW and VW owners do this all the time. Get rid of the CCV (air oil separator) and run a catch can with no Valve. The key to this mod is not running a valve or use one that has a higher flow rate than stock so your intake can suck the air out of the crank before it even has a chance to build up allowing your pistons to move more freely. You'll also see an increase in mpg
Doesn't a breather tank cause a vaccum leak? You aren't getting lean fuel trims?
Great informative vid,
So what about supercharged with gdi system what is better for it?
Do a side by side comparison test of which type of can collects more oil. Vented or return setup. 2k miles with vented then 2k miles with a return tank. Let’s go!
Did you install a check valve pointing (flow) to the intake manifold with your setup?
Thank you for clarifying the differences!
My catch can vents to the intake. It's technically a sealed system, not vented to the atmosphere, but it still should be reducing crank case pressure, right?
you are just sending the dirty air back to the intake and back to the engine?
Seems like a breather can is just a catch can with an air filter on top so it does both???
Mmm... I recently bougjt a 2011 Chevy Colorado 2.9L AT n im makin some upgrades and get an oil catch can so im looking to make the best installation n makin sure that this lil can works perfectly
Thanx. Bro.
Saludos desde Ensenada México 🍀🎶🍻🤙😉
How can a catch can prevent engine blow-by??? 2:00 It is used to catch garbage from engine blow-by.
Hi, how about the gas exit the filter? Are they flammable? Thanks.
Wouldnt there be boost leak if a breather system is installed on a boosted application? Light reflection prevents from seeing the white board.
No. Venting the crank case will not cause a boost leak.
bought a 2 port breather tank for my b16a2 (NA for now-em1), bungs for -10 an fittings on back of block, and -10 an braided lines. My plan is to run both -10an lines to my breather tank and put a filter on the valve cover that connects to the air intake and to plug off the hole on the intake manifold. Do you have any advice on a better plumbing route or what to do with the factory PCV nipple, or can I do what I mentioned and freeze plug the oem pcv breather box location?
I bought my boosted car (modified mazda speed three running 20psi) and it already came with a sealed catch can. Could I make up for it by just installing a vented valve cover breather ?
please explain how the system stops or reduces blow by.
It won't reduce blow by, but it will reduce crank case pressure. That way, the blow by won't have as much of a negative affect on the engine.
thank you
Bro you got an home made AOS (air oil separator!) Nice! Just keep it the way it is man!
Subscribed!
In order to set it up for drain back u need to get a can that u can run coolant lines to to stop the condensation. So oil in the tank stays relatively warm till it runs into the drain back to stop condensation.
Yeah I probably won’t run this setup with my new motor.
Thanks! Great explanation.
I'm confused. There's a vacuum under my valve cover. I know cuz I got a small hole I it where I'm missing a bolt, it pulls in air nonstop.
Is that not normal?
Like if I plug the hole there's still gunna be a vacuum in there, so if I add a hose for an oil catch can, how is it not gunna suck air or oil through that hose into valve cover?
How is oil or air gunna pass out of my valve cover area into my catch can, if mine is under vacuum.
Sorry I probably wrote these questions like a complete idiot. Idk nothing about cars but I'm trying to learn. Been doing some small mods to my cruze last few months really just tryna learn more about how my car actually gets me where I want to go everyday
Awesome video kid ❤️ and it did make me understand how to used either one of these materials and now working on my Ford Mustang and making some great improvement for sure 👍 so keep it up 💪💯
My oil catch can's breather is making annoying noises. Is there a solution to this?
Does the catch can go from the crank case vent port to the catch can and the back to the air intake system? Because it your post reads like you habe an open system (vented) catch can hooked up like a closed system catch can.
Good luck!
hi is oil catch can good for toyota celica gt???
Love the video man
how about catch can and a oil filter cap breather on a vette ?
The only big difference you talk about is that "a breather doesn't catch that much blowby compared to a catch can" which is untrue since you then talk about your breather tank filling up too fast meaning you experienced first hand how much blow by it can catch (more on why your setup fills too quick at the end of my comment), reality is that all types of crankcase ventilation systems catch roughly the same amount of blowby and pressure, difference is what they do with it. Only matters for an emission perspective, an engine health perspective, and a tuning strategy perspective as vent to atmosphere setups like breathers cannot be used with a maf.
Catch cans condensate the majority of the oil particulates then gets the finer stuff and the extra pressure sucked back into the intake, which brings us to your other point "catch cans don't really relieve positive crankcase pressure", that's also false, the second outlet of the catch can is plumbed to a part of the intake that sees vaccuum, therefore the extra pressure gets sucked back into the intake. Advantage is compatible with MAF systems, keeps intake clean, good for emissions, can pull slight vaccuum in crankcase therefore increasing piston ring sealing but probably by like 0.01%. Cons are the more complicated tubing compared to vent to atmosphere setups and some blow by still gets in your intake.
Breather tanks also condensate the majority of the oil particulates, and relief the rest of blowby and the pressure through a filter on top, vent to atmosphere. Doesn't work for MAF systems, and is releasing all kind of vapours in the atmosphere, but it has the most venting capacity, can keep high boost engines with big ring gaps at 0 crankcase pressure compared to a catch can that wouldn't be able to vent enough, also has the advantage of not recirculating any crap in your engine.
Stock crankcase ventilation systems just recirculate the crankcase pressure directly into the intake without even trying to separate the air from the oil and condensation vapors, it only relies on the baffling present in the valve cover to not suck liquid oil into the intake. Best for emissions, don't need to empty a can, compatible with MAF but doesn't work that well with more extreme FI setups that produce more pressure, absolutely the worst when it comes to putting crap back into your engine.
The last options are breather filters, they're filters that go directly onto the valve cover, vent the pressure and vapors to atmosphere and like the stock system only rely on the baffling to prevent liquid oil from coming out. Not Compatible with MAF, bad for emissions, requires really good baffling, and cannot cope at all with the extra pressure of FI, only for lower power NA cars that don't produce much blow by.
Also I would not recommend draining a catch can or breather tank back into the sump, lots of acidic residue, condensation, and gas that ends up in them and I'd rather not recirculate that through my oiling system, fix the problem at the source : your catch can is filling too fast because your baffling is insufficient.
Thank you for the video 👍🏻🤘🏻
2:15 A "Catch Can" will not prevent engine Blow By...
Wait.. You have it drain back to the engine? why??? the stuff it catches is full of contaminants (ie fuel particles) that neutralizes the oil's lubricating elements.
I just need quick answer, for NA engine, OCC or Breather?
OCC
Great video! Keep it up and greetings from Netherlands even if i'm Polish ;)
Thegbu152 XD PL thank you and hello!
Hey, Did you hear, Poland bought 1000 septic tanks from the USA, when they learn to drive them, they will invade Russia? LOL!
I wouldn't drain the oil back into the engine. There are a lot of other contaminants, like water that will also go into your engine.
You might be right.
I have a catch can WITH a breather element.
What brand mate
@@kjschrauber2126 Amazon "mate"
Thank you for this video.
Nice very informative
I realize its an old video and you may have remedied this already.. but you may wanna take a look at that oil you're "draining back into the engine block".. you probably don't want that back in your motor.. that shit is usually full of water/gunk/sludge.. if its filling with oil too quick, you need better baffling. unless that (which appears to just be a moroso breather tank) is actually an air/oil separator..
Your running junk oil with water condensation and fuel back into ur oil. Js.
Layman's terms :)
Video starts at around 2:00
Good video. Good information thank you
Great video!
Alex Sanchez thank you!
More n55 content please!
Ahmed Al Harthi I’ll get some out soon. I the next part I buy is going to be for that car 🤙🏼
JOHN 🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾
Look like i made you make this video lol good vid doe bro.
Thanks!
Nice video, nice Honda! Awesome review, and I'll take any advice from you! Because research is facts, effectiveness, and it's been proven!
Damm clean car
Nice civic bro
Thanks! Check out some of my newer videos. It’s come a LONG way.
Bad thing connecting the oil tank to the engine block for draining oil. Probably you haven't seen the sludge that is collected there in a cold winter morning and the black colour of the oil collected there during hot summer days. Trust me, my friend, stop draining that shit inside your engine.
Such a nerd...
Everyone is a nerd about something. Everyone has at least one thing they geek out on soooo I see your comment was totally a compliment.
NIIIICE!
This video is misleading, engines crankcase can never vent to atmosphere if it is a road registered vehicle, so the mere mention of breather tank removes all your credibility, vented to atmosphere where specifically you have removed the PCV vacuum side causes MORE damage to the crankcase and internals than just running the OEM PCV circuit - OEM high power turbo and supercharger cars factory built have all what I have mentioned for emissions control as a sealed system measured by the MAF sensor - venting any part of this disallowing the motor to burn the blowby is so so bad for the enviroment and for air pollution issues globally, frankly Im fucking sick of seeing people modiying any part of the crankcase piping as its like no one knows how to do it correctly
Damn that’s crazy my turbo ls is vented to atmosphere. Seems like you should be planting trees or something. Obviously not a car person.