Living in a cold climate and not wanting the hassle of having to keep catch can empty and hope for not freezing I went with aos. Was planning catch cans for a long time but ultimately was convinced to go with IAG and glad I did
The reason why the "oil" in the catch can seems thinner is because it's not just oil, being separated. It's mixed with other vapors, including water and fuel. I would go with the Dual Catch Can system because I wouldn't want to pump anything but 100% oil back into my engine. This would prompt you to perform oil changes more frequently.
Yes and since catch cans are not being recirculated with filtered oil you really have to keep an eye out on the oil level in your engine. Depending on your motor’s health or piston to wall clearance if it was done to tight tolerances or loose tolerances will dictate how much blowby you have. I noticed the oil level can drop quickly where if you weren’t checking your oil level you may find your oil level on the dip stick isn’t even meeting the minimum level required. Running e85 definitely thins the oil in your engine. On oil changes you can see how watery the oil your draining is and can smell fuel mixing in your oil which lowers the viscosity of your oil.
@@HandMadeRoyaltyNope, I honestly don't understand the point of the AOS in this configuration over a catch can. As the only tangible difference is the AOS dumps its contents back into the oil system. Adding in the complication of running coolant lines to heat up the AOS system. The coolant will be whatever your thermostat opens up the system at or generally around 180f which isn't hot enough to vaporize oil or water but will for fuel but only if given time. Being it's immediately dumped back into the oil system and you see how little actual fluid these collect (tablespoons in thousands of miles) it makes no tangible benefit to the additional plumbing and risk of extra oil and coolant lines to possibly reuse a few tablespoons of not great oil anyway.
@@Vermonstered my view on this is that both catch-cans (or non-return-to-saump air-oil separators) and what are marketed as "AOS" (or return to sump air-oil separators) both have their use cases. For street/light-track applications for lazy owners - return-to-sump AOS. street/light-track applications for fastidious owners - catch can For heavy track applications with lots of blowby or if you are in a setting where you do many continuous hot laps (endurance racing etc.) - AOS. Polluting your oil mix in your sump is a lesser evil compared to running low on oil.
As a new Subaru owner, dude your channel is like the best thing ever. I had so many questions and you’ve answered like all of them in your vids already🤣appreciate it man, you a real one
I was just about to say you've got 2 catch cans and one of them will be empty and the other one will have oil in it. The reason for some reason someone told you to put one on the clean side or bank one of your engine when in actuality, you only need one on the dirty side, which is bank two of your engine, because Bank one is only getting clean, filtered air through it. That's remember PCV positive crank case ventilation, so there is only one direction of flow. Your PCV valve has a check ball or check valve within it in order to eliminate any gases from going back into the engine. The other thing is never ever re-introduce any oil from a catch can or AOS. Doing so would be re-introducing small particles of fuel droplets back into your engine oil thus creating oil delusion and don't want that! Anything you catch you dump into another container to be recycled when you take your engine oil back to the auto parts store for recycling. Yeah, I think somebody just took advantage of your set up and said you would need to catch can on both sides of the engine in order to increase sales. I've never seen somebody have oil in both of their cans.. it's also a good idea to put stainless steel wool inside the catch can in order to increase the filter, media and the opportunity for the oil papers to condensate as well cool off the air, a bit more before re-entering the intake manifold. Cheers, mate.
A few points to add. 1) not your fault, but I think there is a lot of misuse around catch can and AOS terms. The way I see it, a catch can is a type of Air Oil Separator. It's function is to...wait for it...to seperate the oily residue from the returned air. You can classify these generic Air Oil Separators into various types: a) a very simple non baffled non-returning unit. Still attempts to seperate air and oil but probably doesn't do a great job without baffling. (E.g. el-cheapo eBay units) b) a baffled non-returning type (like the radium units in your video) c) a baffled returning type (like the IAG/Cobb unit) 2. It really should be noted that blowby is not just air+oil. It also carries a filthy mixture of burnt and unburnt fuel. So, whilst the IAG AOS may do a good job of keeping water condensation out of the caught blowby fluid, the IAG unit is still dumping this polluted content back into your sump. This is more severe on E85 applications. Recommended to decrease oil change frequencies if they are not already frequent. This is the main reason why I have a bit of a preference towards non-draining air oil separators (aka catch cans). 3. the amount of blowby that you get (or that is caught in a catch can) is not only due to the condition of your engine. It's also influenced by how you drive the vehicle. Case in point, the catch can I run on my STi runs bone dry 99% of the time. However, out on track where oil temps can breach 120degC, this can thin the oil (I use 5w40) out to such a degree that you now see alot of blowby. I caught approx 300mL from 30min (2 sessions) of circuit driving in 30degC ambient temps. That triggered me to install an external oil cooler - now the catch can runs dry again even at track duty.
Agreed .... the IAG is highly functional and a reasonably easy install. If I would have only removed (deleted) the sound generator tube beforehand, things would have been so much easier. Cheers.
I am installing a dual catch can in my turbo direct injected Alfa 4C. I had Mazdaspeed 3, oil catch cans were really useful that engine blew a lot of through. Like an old Porsche turbo, it you accelerated hard and closed the throttle, then nailed the throttle it was like a smoke generator. Totally normal on MS3. So was carbon build up. Some engines are prone than others. The Alfa 2.0 in the guilia has very little blow by. The 2.9 now has port and direct injection, like Fords and many new engines. Helps not only with managing combustion but also keeping valves clean.
Also, I throw a stainless steel scrub brush you use for doing dishes, into the catch can. It provides a lot of extra surface area for oil vapors to come in contact with, stick to and condensate on to drip down to the bottom of the can rather than making their way through the air stream up the exit tube to the air intake.
Cold climates - Just pour a touch of something that wont freeze into the base 10-20ml, so that it helps from freezing. I empty out once a month, and when I do I just tip a bit of RV Antifreeze in there.
The idea of having an additional coolant/oil return line to rout, on top of having potential contaminated oil feed back into my oil pan is why i wont do an air/oil separator. Catch can it is. Great video.
Aos also is a bit harder to install which will cost more. I don’t like the idea of dirty nasty watery oil going back into the engine so I prefer catch cans but my tuner was adamant that I switch to an aos with the high boost I’m running. I declined as I honestly love changing my catch can frequently so I can easily look at what’s going through my engine.
The main thing is the pvc system has to be a closed system with no air filter and the valve cover system has to be vented to allow air to escape when you have high pressure like rpms.
Crazy I've been looking at a catch can and here you come out with a video on it. Awesome content for any wrx sti owners out there looking to mod their cars. Keep up the great work man
You finally sold me on the catch can here, seeing that emptying it at oil change intervals would be fine. But hey, imagine that, 4000 miles without checking a catch can on a Subaru engine and it didn't completely overflow! Must be some pretty good engines after all! 😉
4000mi, and they barely had any in it? Must be nice. I put one on my 2.0T VW, and it fills up 300ml catch can in about 70 miles.. Yet compression and leak-down tests are in spec.. WTAF lol
The heated AOS is good at evaporating some moisture but I suspect the return oil still brings blow by fuel & water vapor back into your oil pan. 3k oil changes are crucial
Your coolant is only 180f, the vapor entering the can will likely be in the same range of temperature so not much benefit. The purpose of heating the AOS is to allow the water and fuel vapor to pass through because the temps are closer to their vaporization temp while oil will hopefully condense. You want the small amounts of excess water and fuel to pass back into the combustion cycle and exit the system. But for any daily driven not heavily modified car, I question why anyone would want to add an additional oil line, tap to the pan, t off a coolant line all because they're too lazy to check a catch every time they do an oil change. Or in this case it looks like he could get away with 3+ oil changes and still have few problems.
I put a Catch can with dual vacuum lines on it, one on intake and the other to drivers side turbo. Rationale for that is that at W.O.T. or other higher throttle levels, your manifold vacuum drops off, so turbo draws on it to keep vacuum on catch can. My 2013 Ecoboost D.I. 3.5 liter can go up to 700 miles on a fill. Since I live 20 miles from gas station, I never let it get near empty . I usually check it at every other gas fill up, or about 1000 miles, sometimes less. I may get 10-12 oz. of muck which I save in garage in plastic bottle and let it separate. It does NOT use any oil between changes, and only has 53K miles on it. You get 3 distinct levels after separation. Gasoline, sludge, water. It is ugly. If you have a D.I. engine, you need one of these devices or you can pay the guys who use walnut shells to blast your intake valves. Your choice. I am thinking of buying a 2013 Lincoln MKZ sedan with 16k on it from a fellow I know, but have yet to look at it 75 miles away. 2.0 liter D.I. ecoboost. You know I will have a catch can ready for it when I get home, or soon after. Great Videos!
Nice!!! Perfect before buying!! Just My brother and I we're talking about this last week. He got the twin turbo Stinger Kia, and me My subie. AOS is the perfect fit for me 😝 Thanks for the info 👍🏽
Great vid and post as usual. Just had the install of the IAG AOS done, so nice, looks fabulous in the car and functions so well. However, I did consider the catch can approach but ultimately went the "set it and forget it" route it with the AOS. Cheers.
This was the 1st vid I watched to learn about this and feel like I know a heck of a lot more now, thank you for being detailed! At the end of the day, I think I'll save up and go the AOS route
The coolant connection COOLS the vapor so it will condense out the water and volatile organics, leaving cleaner, drier air to go the to the manifold.. The gases coming out of the crank case are much hotter than the coolants system. You either want the catch can or OAS out in front of the radiator for cool airflow, or cooled by the cold output of the radiator.
Great video. For me If it’s something like a daily a catch can is more than sufficient and actually to me better than a “AOS” because not only does a catch can not only desperate air and oils. It completely traps it in the can. That’s good because oil can potentially be contaminated by fuel and other stuff which isn’t beneficial to longevity. So yes a catch can actually is a “AOS” but it keeps that oil. On the down side you will lose oil but it’s marginal and not a concern. However if you have a catch can on a race car then that’s a different story. A race car gets wayyy more blow bye. And during a track session the last thing you need is to trap the oil in the catch can because then you’ll get oil starvation and that’s the last thing you need. So what an AOS does compared to a catch can is drain that oil back into the oil pan. Now the oil could be potentially contaminated but that’s a zero concern in a race car because the oil would be changed frequently anyways. So why not slap a AOS on a daily? Well longevity. A daily isn’t getting as much blow by as a track car and really doesn’t need to send the potentially contaminated oil back into the car. Most of the time people get an AOS because of the “set it and forget it” feature. And avoid the catch cans because they fear having to do more work to drain the cans. But you can find catch cans with drains ports that you can run under the car. That will allow you to drain the oil while you charge your oil if you will. Why not slap a catch can on a race car? Well you can but then it wouldn’t be a “catch can” it would instead be a breather tank. It’s like a catch can but with a much bigger body to hold more oil and vents the air atmosphere. So all that crap is never returning to the engine. But what about oil starvation. Well that’s where larger and baffled oil pans come into play. But that’s another story. In the end To me: catch’s cans for daily’s or even street cars (low end near stock power levels) AOS for track car/race car (high end power levels)
I think it comes down to how you drive the car, some people drive their daily pretty aggresivly. I know toh my STI getting kn the freeway and backroads i dig into the car. Both systems function very well. And either one is better than nothing
Smeedia your right. Driving habits are also a thing to consider as well. I always forget that because I kind of baby my sti lol and yea both are better than nothing. To be honest I got dual catch cans because it’s cheaper and it’s better than nothing even for my stock sti lol I figured out the rest after doing research AFTER installation lol
Alex Peguero absolutely. There was a decent little puddle sitting in the manifold when I had the throttle body off well. There was also oil in the intercooler. I flushed it with acetone and when I drained it out the acetone was a gold color almost like brake fluid
Hey i know this is an old video but i just got a 2017 wrx recently and i wanted to know how did your aos handled -40 temps in canada? Im being skeptical as to getting one since im driving mine daily and its almost winter. Dont also have a garage so its always outside. Want to know if they really hold up the colder temps. Thanks!
Don't put fuel diluted oil blowby back into your sump. A catch can is better IMO. AOS is for people too lazy to drain a catch can. Place it in a hot area of your engine bay to ensure water and fuel are driven off and all you drain is oil. This is basic physics. Having a catch can or AOS is even more important if your engine is direct injected.
I have a catch can with a drain port. So I teed it into the crank breather with a check valve so pressure does not blow through the drain. I basically have an AOS for cheap it works good and drains back into the crank without the can filling up. I also capped the PCV valve and the breather into turbo inlet by the throttle body. So VC breathers from the cross pipe and crank breather feed into the inlet and the outlet goes into the turbo inlet by the power steering pump. Way simpler, way more effective and used nice fluorinated silicone stretchy vacuum hose for good seal without ever becoming brittle
I just installed a oil catch can on my 2019 wrx and the turbo is noticeably way quieter, it also makes me feel like my car isn't getting the power it was before. I'm not sure if i did anything wrong or if all this is normal with a catch can. Any insight would be very appreciated! Thanks! Great content as always man keep up the good work
I kinda like the idea of catch cans since from what ive seen from other research on catch cans they catch water and other junk that isnt oil and make sure its not going back in the oil, which in turn might help keep oil cleaner? Idk about that maybe not noticeable but in theory it should. Idk thats just my thoughts
The first can is dry, because the system doesnt work the way you think it does. The Driver side (connected to the Air Intake) is a Crank Case breather, it pulls air never pushes it. Your crank has to be under constant pressure, the PCV is to make sure pressure doesnt get too high. All the Driver side does is suck air through to push it the other side. The system flows like this. Air Intake (Fresh Air) > Crankcase breather (Driver Side) > PCV System > Intake Manifold.
if you get a catch can rather than the aos, you can monitor the health of your engine. increased oil in your catch can may be a sign of piston ring wear
Great video. These work great (a o s) I have seen these on diesel engines catch on fire because they were not maintained meaning cleaned and filters replaced during every oil change.
Here is another benefit to running a Catch can vs an AOS: being able to monitor/measure/validate that the system is working properly. With an AOS it's fire and forget, which provides no means to monitor/measure/validate how much the system is filtering out. Being a "touchy-feely" guy, I want to know exactly what is being pulled out of the PCV system. I personally don't want to dump any of that crap back into the oil system (cause it ain't just oil!!!). Being able to monitor/record collections allows me to see changes over time, where the AOS doesn't. So I'll take the CC over the AOS and feel confident in my findings, versus only assuming. And the first 3 letters of assuming is _ _ _. 'Nuff said.
The reason why it was so liquidy as you referred to the engine oil in the catch is not due to water because it would be milky like Yellowish lol it's simply due to the fuel vapours from the combustion process. That's why the oil looks thinner is because it's been diluted with gasoline after the vapours condensed within the catch can. I'm gonna have to do my own video. I see so much misinformation out there with improper set ups due to misunderstandings on how the engine operates with a clean side and a dirty side.
I installed a Cork Sport oil catch can on my 2019 MAZDA CX-5 2.5 L. turbo. At 6,000+ miles I drained 1/3 cup of nasty-looking brown liquid from the OCC. My air/oil separator would have put that crap BACK into my crankcase! Nevertheless I will have my intake valves cleaned at my dealer with BG cleaner with an induction rig. ->TIP: loosen the "dipstick" when draining your OCC to let air in and drain the can properly.
The catch can on the passenger side seem to be the one needed. I just installed this one. But beware, check the hose that it comes with. Mine was a piece of junk and actually busted, causing an engine light code, due to pressure imbalance. Get a good quality, non-collapsible hose.
Interesting video and well done. Not sure I 100% agree with all of your statements/philosophy but the video is well done and I appreciated the intro to some new brands.
What about the 100's of posts on reddit saying bad things about the aos. I have a iag aos sitting on my bench contemplating on not installing after all my research....just about to watch this video, hope it changes my mind! Love the content tho keep the solid work! 👌
old video so late comment but I would have taken the can from the driver's side and attached it to the passenger side downstream of the can that is catching oil, just as a test to see how much the second can would catch in comparison, to get an idea how much oil vapor makes it past the first catch can. I am curious just how much oil the can is actually catching? 80%, 10% or less? how would you even know unless you are some how able to catch 100% of the vapor before the intake then do the math on what a single catch can gets.
I think catch cans will be better for people who want to monitor engine extremely closely by measuring how much oil blow-by every X amount of miles or engine run time.
I've been advised by a very reputable local tuner/builder to not run catch cans or AOSs because with our cold weather, the tubing tends to plug up and freeze causing the crankcase to pressurize and cause other issues. What are your thoughts?
In very cold climates it can cause any moisture in the trunk line to freeze and plug the return hole. But it needs to be very cold continuously for that
What collects in my catch can is a lot of water and just a little bit of oil and sometimes the can gets full of water in only a few hundred miles. I have to check it often in winter as I was making lots of short trips.
@@wildcatz49 I think no one wants to answer this question is because we already know the water is making its way back. Makes me think a catch can is more sensible. Obviously you have to schedule you maintenance to empty the can, but they do have catch cans with an overflow.
9:18 the answer. Catch cans require draining but also the air oil separator is not made for all cars . To find a hole that leads back into the crank case matching all pressure to not throw off a code? Its very specific . I'll take the 25$ oil catch can works fine just add sum fresh oil if it's low but low oil won't kill ur car
A couple of tea spoons is not bad... better then a couple of quarts! ( My Chevy due to bad timing chain cover gaskets, resulting in a new cheap timing chain from AutoZone which resulted in a newer engine)
I know this is a mod channel (subed & love the videos) but how many WRX or STI owners watch but don't have any thoughts of modding. Owned 2 WRX's now have a 2017 STI, It will being staying stock
Hello Sir! I know you said both Oil Catch can & Air oil separator works similar! What you suggest to work better for 2013 BMW 535i GT Twin Turbo Charge? Thanks in advance by the way I don’t care about the price at all I just want the best for the engine.
Good video , I've tried several on WRX/STI , and Forester's , never collected much on any of them guess I drive too slow . As a matter of fact I took mine off my current 2 liter STI cause after two years dry I figured it's just taking up space but if I was planning on track day's I would put a good AOS back on !
What filtering internal setup works the best? I have been looking hard and long for several days on end trying to discover which brand of catch can has what filter set-up on the inside and MOST IMPORTANTLY which filtering mechanism is the ULTIMATE at not only allowing oil and water vapor into the catch device but also the prevention of the oil and vapor to get pulled back into the intake. And to add to that, which device(s) may cause “restrictions” to the crankcase ventilation system - and what about the factory PVC devices do they get removed?
So, you recommend this for every WRX, but Subaru tells me installing one will void my warranty. I have a brand new 2020 WRX with only 4000 kms on it. Should I wait?
So the 4-6k mile check of the catch cans is exactly why I went single can on my WRX and did passenger side only. Saved money since the driver side can seems useless from multiple videos. Do you think I made the wrong decision?
I like the Cobb/IAG for the lazer engraving. The IAG sticker kinda discolors and comes off due to the heat. Think it's just a couple of bucks more for the rebranding. Worth it !!
Great information. But what about diesel engines. I have not heard of catch cans with diesels. They have much higher compression than gasoline engines. Thanks.
Hey man I have a 20FA-20 lol it’s my first subie she’s all stock haven’t done nothing at all but seeing your video has me thinking the obvious better choice would be an (AOS) but seeing your set up on your BRZ running dual catch cans seems like that kind of set up is more than enough to keep the engine healthy and happy as long as it’s not being pushed too far beyond reasonable HP it’s tuned to handle and what’s the price difference between the two setups you showed on this episode ? Huge fan of the channel too man very well organized material and subie 😎🤟🏽
Eyyyy honestly a single catch can would be more than sufficient. Radium makes some pretty affordable options. I know Crawford was working on an AOS for that engine but nkt sure in price point of it yet 🙏
My car has neither. I’ve had the TMIC off numerous times, and luckily not a smudge of oil in the IC or throttle body. Guess I’ve been very lucky with that so far. I can’t believe the previous owner never installed one based on everything else they did when they built the motor. But I do plan on getting one of the Grimmspeed AOS if they ever become available again. Not many other options for 03..
Great video as always! What was your reasoning for going AOS on the blubaru and dual catch cans on the BRZ and not both AOS or both catch cans? Wanted to try each out?
Wanted to be able to compare the two as both cars are driven. Personally I have no prefrence on either option. Theyrr both good to have but catch cans will typically always be cheaper
Question buddy Had a 2014 F-150 JLT oil separator had to empty it every other fill up with gas it definitely worked very well Just traded for 2018 F-150 purchased a brand new JLT 3.0 oil separator 3000 mi not one drop of oil so far concerned something isn't right can you tell me is this normal?
@@Smeedia awesome thank you so much for the info if that is the case would you recommend leaving it on I have lost maybe 2 mi per gallon on my economy thank you so much
I noticed you saying you were going to dedicate a video strictly for that while going through the build process and I haven't been able to find it, or one that shows what hose/ports to plug or connect too. Can you make a video on your AOS Set up on your 2005 Impreza WRX STI? I wanted to know how to mount it to the car and the way you ran your lines. Unfortunately, my car will not have a front mount intercooler so it might be slightly different but that's okay because everything else is the same. I'll just have to tuck things really good
I did a 3port mishi catch can Only on stock boost but its great, there isn't much blow by If anyone else wants to do it: - Tjoint both sides of the rocker cover into one catch can input (this is what the black pipe at the bottom of the intercooler does from factory) - pcv vent in to the other catch can input - output to the turbo inlet I would like an aos one day
Gunna throw one on my 06 gxp. Seen i was blowing blue smoke on decel and start up. Pulled the valve cover to see a gummed up pcv baffle. Gunna put a catch can as precaution as I drilled out the valve cover baffle so it would not clog again
I run a oil catch can already on my EVO8 MR, would I need to change to a AOS? What benefits would the AOS make over the catch can? Luv ur vlogs on JDM cars bro!!!
In my thought process, wouldn’t the oil that you are returning back to the system with an AOS be contaminated with other substances? What are your thoughts on this possibly contaminating all of your oil? Should you just decrease the intervals between oil changes?
If there's moisture going back into the catch can then isn't it better to have that system than a AOS? I don't have either system yet but I'd personally want to get a catch can to make sure moisture isn't mixed back in the oil. I had my block reamed out to 2.7L so I probably need one of these systems more than stock builds. Awesome vid!
I would go with a catch can, you can at least tramp the moisture without any worry of it going back through the system. And hot damn did you go with a stroker kit?
IAG... Keeping your oil pee free for years! They should use that in their ads. Ive been debating whether i wanna run an aos or catch can. Leaning toward catch can because my sti isn't a daily driver and only has 15k on it. Probably wouldn't have to drain them very often.
I have a 17' Forester XT (the same engine FA20DIT as the WRX for the most part). It gets slightly rough idle on warm up after a few thousand miles before an oil change. I use CRC Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner before oil changes. This seems to fix it for a while. The intake manifold sensor seems to get pretty oily. I think an Air Oil Separator would help. Thoughts? This my first Subi & turbo gas vehicle.
love Radium stuff...thinking of their aos as I have their bmc brace and their aos mounts to their bmc brace. this should leave room for the AEM strut bar I'm eyeing for the near future...still curious is to why Subaru didn't engineer an AOS into their engine design from the get go on the FA/FB series engines.. 🤔
Thought - since the "oil" in the catch can was "liquid-y" and possibly having more than just oil, having that go back into the system doesn't sound as good of an idea in case it contaminates the engine oil (making the catch can a better option?)?
Living in a cold climate and not wanting the hassle of having to keep catch can empty and hope for not freezing I went with aos. Was planning catch cans for a long time but ultimately was convinced to go with IAG and glad I did
The reason why the "oil" in the catch can seems thinner is because it's not just oil, being separated. It's mixed with other vapors, including water and fuel. I would go with the Dual Catch Can system because I wouldn't want to pump anything but 100% oil back into my engine. This would prompt you to perform oil changes more frequently.
But doesnt the aos seperate water oil and air
Yes and since catch cans are not being recirculated with filtered oil you really have to keep an eye out on the oil level in your engine. Depending on your motor’s health or piston to wall clearance if it was done to tight tolerances or loose tolerances will dictate how much blowby you have. I noticed the oil level can drop quickly where if you weren’t checking your oil level you may find your oil level on the dip stick isn’t even meeting the minimum level required. Running e85 definitely thins the oil in your engine. On oil changes you can see how watery the oil your draining is and can smell fuel mixing in your oil which lowers the viscosity of your oil.
Yup, on my GDI, I get this black, runny, foul smelling, fluid in my can. I surely wouldn't want this to recirculate onto the backs of my valves. 💀
@@HandMadeRoyaltyNope, I honestly don't understand the point of the AOS in this configuration over a catch can. As the only tangible difference is the AOS dumps its contents back into the oil system. Adding in the complication of running coolant lines to heat up the AOS system. The coolant will be whatever your thermostat opens up the system at or generally around 180f which isn't hot enough to vaporize oil or water but will for fuel but only if given time. Being it's immediately dumped back into the oil system and you see how little actual fluid these collect (tablespoons in thousands of miles) it makes no tangible benefit to the additional plumbing and risk of extra oil and coolant lines to possibly reuse a few tablespoons of not great oil anyway.
@@Vermonstered my view on this is that both catch-cans (or non-return-to-saump air-oil separators) and what are marketed as "AOS" (or return to sump air-oil separators) both have their use cases.
For street/light-track applications for lazy owners - return-to-sump AOS.
street/light-track applications for fastidious owners - catch can
For heavy track applications with lots of blowby or if you are in a setting where you do many continuous hot laps (endurance racing etc.) - AOS. Polluting your oil mix in your sump is a lesser evil compared to running low on oil.
As a new Subaru owner, dude your channel is like the best thing ever. I had so many questions and you’ve answered like all of them in your vids already🤣appreciate it man, you a real one
Eyyyy, glad the videos have helped!
I was just about to say you've got 2 catch cans and one of them will be empty and the other one will have oil in it. The reason for some reason someone told you to put one on the clean side or bank one of your engine when in actuality, you only need one on the dirty side, which is bank two of your engine, because Bank one is only getting clean, filtered air through it. That's remember PCV positive crank case ventilation, so there is only one direction of flow. Your PCV valve has a check ball or check valve within it in order to eliminate any gases from going back into the engine. The other thing is never ever re-introduce any oil from a catch can or AOS. Doing so would be re-introducing small particles of fuel droplets back into your engine oil thus creating oil delusion and don't want that! Anything you catch you dump into another container to be recycled when you take your engine oil back to the auto parts store for recycling. Yeah, I think somebody just took advantage of your set up and said you would need to catch can on both sides of the engine in order to increase sales. I've never seen somebody have oil in both of their cans.. it's also a good idea to put stainless steel wool inside the catch can in order to increase the filter, media and the opportunity for the oil papers to condensate as well cool off the air, a bit more before re-entering the intake manifold. Cheers, mate.
installed a catch can to my 2019 v6 challenger. kept reading, "oh you really don't need it for the v6's". Well, after 6k miles I poured out 3oz of oil
All engines will have blow by, turbo, supercharged and high compression will have it worse but any engine will benefit from a catch can 🔥
Is Challenger made by Dodge ?
@@lowlifeangler yes
Catching .0005 ounces of oil per mile.
A few points to add.
1) not your fault, but I think there is a lot of misuse around catch can and AOS terms. The way I see it, a catch can is a type of Air Oil Separator. It's function is to...wait for it...to seperate the oily residue from the returned air.
You can classify these generic Air Oil Separators into various types:
a) a very simple non baffled non-returning unit. Still attempts to seperate air and oil but probably doesn't do a great job without baffling. (E.g. el-cheapo eBay units)
b) a baffled non-returning type (like the radium units in your video)
c) a baffled returning type (like the IAG/Cobb unit)
2. It really should be noted that blowby is not just air+oil. It also carries a filthy mixture of burnt and unburnt fuel. So, whilst the IAG AOS may do a good job of keeping water condensation out of the caught blowby fluid, the IAG unit is still dumping this polluted content back into your sump. This is more severe on E85 applications. Recommended to decrease oil change frequencies if they are not already frequent. This is the main reason why I have a bit of a preference towards non-draining air oil separators (aka catch cans).
3. the amount of blowby that you get (or that is caught in a catch can) is not only due to the condition of your engine. It's also influenced by how you drive the vehicle. Case in point, the catch can I run on my STi runs bone dry 99% of the time. However, out on track where oil temps can breach 120degC, this can thin the oil (I use 5w40) out to such a degree that you now see alot of blowby. I caught approx 300mL from 30min (2 sessions) of circuit driving in 30degC ambient temps. That triggered me to install an external oil cooler - now the catch can runs dry again even at track duty.
IAG AOS is one of my favorite things I've installed on my car. Highly recommend their AOS, great product.
They make a killer AOS 🔥🙏
Agreed .... the IAG is highly functional and a reasonably easy install. If I would have only removed (deleted) the sound generator tube beforehand, things would have been so much easier. Cheers.
@@Smeedia what about cobb
Cobb is good. Just a re-branded IAG with diffrent baffling
I am installing a dual catch can in my turbo direct injected Alfa 4C.
I had Mazdaspeed 3, oil catch cans were really useful that engine blew a lot of through. Like an old Porsche turbo, it you accelerated hard and closed the throttle, then nailed the throttle it was like a smoke generator. Totally normal on MS3. So was carbon build up.
Some engines are prone than others. The Alfa 2.0 in the guilia has very little blow by. The 2.9 now has port and direct injection, like Fords and many new engines. Helps not only with managing combustion but also keeping valves clean.
Duel injection is 🔥 the FRS/BRZ platforms use Toyota D4S system to prevent carbon on the valves as well 🔥
Also, I throw a stainless steel scrub brush you use for doing dishes, into the catch can. It provides a lot of extra surface area for oil vapors to come in contact with, stick to and condensate on to drip down to the bottom of the can rather than making their way through the air stream up the exit tube to the air intake.
Could you use not very densely packed steel wool like a giant crack pipe for your engine
@@psions555Before track days I add the steel wool and roughly an 8 ball of crack to my catch can. YMMV.
@@BurmaJ Try heroin instead. It will make the motor run so we'll. Be sure to add it frequently and not let it run out or the motor will run rough
Cold climates - Just pour a touch of something that wont freeze into the base 10-20ml, so that it helps from freezing. I empty out once a month, and when I do I just tip a bit of RV Antifreeze in there.
The idea of having an additional coolant/oil return line to rout, on top of having potential contaminated oil feed back into my oil pan is why i wont do an air/oil separator. Catch can it is. Great video.
Loved the catch cans on this car, kept a lot of the nasty out of the motor 🔥
Aos also is a bit harder to install which will cost more. I don’t like the idea of dirty nasty watery oil going back into the engine so I prefer catch cans but my tuner was adamant that I switch to an aos with the high boost I’m running. I declined as I honestly love changing my catch can frequently so I can easily look at what’s going through my engine.
Catch cans work great, just need to remember to drain them and they're solid 🔥😁
How often do you empty it with the turbo?
@@TheWestysworld every month or so I’ll pour out about half an inch of oil out of the can
The main thing is the pvc system has to be a closed system with no air filter and the valve cover system has to be vented to allow air to escape when you have high pressure like rpms.
Speak of the devil 👹 I was just explaining this to my son yesterday. This will be a great visual for him.
Another one🔥
Eyyyyyy! Perfect timing 😁
Crazy I've been looking at a catch can and here you come out with a video on it. Awesome content for any wrx sti owners out there looking to mod their cars. Keep up the great work man
Thanks my man🙏🔥😁
I've had a catch can on my turbo Veloster for probably 4 years now and I've only had to empty it once. It's not a frequent thing at all for me.
You finally sold me on the catch can here, seeing that emptying it at oil change intervals would be fine.
But hey, imagine that, 4000 miles without checking a catch can on a Subaru engine and it didn't completely overflow! Must be some pretty good engines after all! 😉
The catch cans will definitely help 🔥🙏 and oh yes 😁
4000mi, and they barely had any in it? Must be nice. I put one on my 2.0T VW, and it fills up 300ml catch can in about 70 miles.. Yet compression and leak-down tests are in spec.. WTAF lol
@@geriatricginger probably just means his can isn't catching as much lol
The heated AOS is good at evaporating some moisture but I suspect the return oil still brings blow by fuel & water vapor back into your oil pan. 3k oil changes are crucial
Your coolant is only 180f, the vapor entering the can will likely be in the same range of temperature so not much benefit. The purpose of heating the AOS is to allow the water and fuel vapor to pass through because the temps are closer to their vaporization temp while oil will hopefully condense. You want the small amounts of excess water and fuel to pass back into the combustion cycle and exit the system. But for any daily driven not heavily modified car, I question why anyone would want to add an additional oil line, tap to the pan, t off a coolant line all because they're too lazy to check a catch every time they do an oil change. Or in this case it looks like he could get away with 3+ oil changes and still have few problems.
Had a Cusco on my sti and got mostly vapor, difference was running Motul 5W-40 Xcess which also helps with less blowby instead of regular 5W-30
Interesting to know, but makes sense a higher viscosity could reduce the amount of blow by
Motul also make STI performance oil - 5W-40 - recommended for the S207, S208 models
I put a Catch can with dual vacuum lines on it, one on intake and the other to drivers side turbo. Rationale for that is that at W.O.T. or other higher throttle levels, your manifold vacuum drops off, so turbo draws on it to keep vacuum on catch can. My 2013 Ecoboost D.I. 3.5 liter can go up to 700 miles on a fill. Since I live 20 miles from gas station, I never let it get near empty . I usually check it at every other gas fill up, or about 1000 miles, sometimes less. I may get 10-12 oz. of muck which I save in garage in plastic bottle and let it separate. It does NOT use any oil between changes, and only has 53K miles on it. You get 3 distinct levels after separation. Gasoline, sludge, water. It is ugly. If you have a D.I. engine, you need one of these devices or you can pay the guys who use walnut shells to blast your intake valves. Your choice. I am thinking of buying a 2013 Lincoln MKZ sedan with 16k on it from a fellow I know, but have yet to look at it 75 miles away. 2.0 liter D.I. ecoboost. You know I will have a catch can ready for it when I get home, or soon after.
Great Videos!
Nice!!! Perfect before buying!! Just My brother and I we're talking about this last week. He got the twin turbo Stinger Kia, and me My subie. AOS is the perfect fit for me 😝
Thanks for the info 👍🏽
Definitely will help keep things healthy! Glaf the video helped 😁😁😁
Great vid and post as usual. Just had the install of the IAG AOS done, so nice, looks fabulous in the car and functions so well. However, I did consider the catch can approach but ultimately went the "set it and forget it" route it with the AOS. Cheers.
Though I own Mazdas, I find joy watching all of your videos!
Ryyy appreciate the support my friend 😁🔥
@@Smeedia Yessir!
This was the 1st vid I watched to learn about this and feel like I know a heck of a lot more now, thank you for being detailed! At the end of the day, I think I'll save up and go the AOS route
Glad to hear the videos helped and an AOS is well worth it 🥳
The coolant connection COOLS the vapor so it will condense out the water and volatile organics, leaving cleaner, drier air to go the to the manifold.. The gases coming out of the crank case are much hotter than the coolants system. You either want the catch can or OAS out in front of the radiator for cool airflow, or cooled by the cold output of the radiator.
Great video.
For me If it’s something like a daily a catch can is more than sufficient and actually to me better than a “AOS” because not only does a catch can not only desperate air and oils. It completely traps it in the can. That’s good because oil can potentially be contaminated by fuel and other stuff which isn’t beneficial to longevity. So yes a catch can actually is a “AOS” but it keeps that oil. On the down side you will lose oil but it’s marginal and not a concern.
However if you have a catch can on a race car then that’s a different story. A race car gets wayyy more blow bye. And during a track session the last thing you need is to trap the oil in the catch can because then you’ll get oil starvation and that’s the last thing you need. So what an AOS does compared to a catch can is drain that oil back into the oil pan. Now the oil could be potentially contaminated but that’s a zero concern in a race car because the oil would be changed frequently anyways.
So why not slap a AOS on a daily? Well longevity. A daily isn’t getting as much blow by as a track car and really doesn’t need to send the potentially contaminated oil back into the car.
Most of the time people get an AOS because of the “set it and forget it” feature. And avoid the catch cans because they fear having to do more work to drain the cans. But you can find catch cans with drains ports that you can run under the car. That will allow you to drain the oil while you charge your oil if you will.
Why not slap a catch can on a race car? Well you can but then it wouldn’t be a “catch can” it would instead be a breather tank. It’s like a catch can but with a much bigger body to hold more oil and vents the air atmosphere. So all that crap is never returning to the engine. But what about oil starvation. Well that’s where larger and baffled oil pans come into play. But that’s another story.
In the end
To me: catch’s cans for daily’s or even street cars (low end near stock power levels)
AOS for track car/race car (high end power levels)
I think it comes down to how you drive the car, some people drive their daily pretty aggresivly. I know toh my STI getting kn the freeway and backroads i dig into the car. Both systems function very well. And either one is better than nothing
Smeedia your right. Driving habits are also a thing to consider as well. I always forget that because I kind of baby my sti lol and yea both are better than nothing. To be honest I got dual catch cans because it’s cheaper and it’s better than nothing even for my stock sti lol I figured out the rest after doing research AFTER installation lol
Sum Guy have you noticed any oil in your catch cans given that your stock?
Alex Peguero absolutely. There was a decent little puddle sitting in the manifold when I had the throttle body off well. There was also oil in the intercooler. I flushed it with acetone and when I drained it out the acetone was a gold color almost like brake fluid
Sum Guy wow
I came from the 2004 STI series, seeing the engine bay in this car is insane. Really nice work, hope to get my '04 WRX looking this good.
My AOS cost me about $700 after shipping and duty to Canada. Took me about 8 hrs to install but definitely worth it.
For sure, ans the first one always takes the longest 🔥
Hey i know this is an old video but i just got a 2017 wrx recently and i wanted to know how did your aos handled -40 temps in canada? Im being skeptical as to getting one since im driving mine daily and its almost winter. Dont also have a garage so its always outside. Want to know if they really hold up the colder temps. Thanks!
@@justinabanto8930 Not too sure I actually never winter drove mine, but I would assume it would work just fine, still get's hot under the engine bay.
Remember installing a IAG AOS on my sti. Absolute nightmare. Installed a catch can on my friends 86. Sooooo easy
The 86 is so much easier to do 😅
Don't put fuel diluted oil blowby back into your sump. A catch can is better IMO. AOS is for people too lazy to drain a catch can. Place it in a hot area of your engine bay to ensure water and fuel are driven off and all you drain is oil. This is basic physics. Having a catch can or AOS is even more important if your engine is direct injected.
Got washed away watching the differences between an AOS and catch cans and was nice to see the ol’ EJ-25 in the Bluebaru
I low key miss the EJ 😅
I have a catch can with a drain port. So I teed it into the crank breather with a check valve so pressure does not blow through the drain. I basically have an AOS for cheap it works good and drains back into the crank without the can filling up. I also capped the PCV valve and the breather into turbo inlet by the throttle body. So VC breathers from the cross pipe and crank breather feed into the inlet and the outlet goes into the turbo inlet by the power steering pump. Way simpler, way more effective and used nice fluorinated silicone stretchy vacuum hose for good seal without ever becoming brittle
You forgot to mention the Radium Catch cans don't vent into the atmosphere so it legal in places like California.
Very good point to add 🔥
The IAG aos is great. I used to smell oil after a hard pull, but now nothing. Love the no maintenance. Wish I could see how much blowby is collected
Can always swap it out for a can set up if you wanted to see how much you were getting 😁
I just installed a oil catch can on my 2019 wrx and the turbo is noticeably way quieter, it also makes me feel like my car isn't getting the power it was before. I'm not sure if i did anything wrong or if all this is normal with a catch can. Any insight would be very appreciated! Thanks! Great content as always man keep up the good work
I kinda like the idea of catch cans since from what ive seen from other research on catch cans they catch water and other junk that isnt oil and make sure its not going back in the oil, which in turn might help keep oil cleaner? Idk about that maybe not noticeable but in theory it should. Idk thats just my thoughts
Your spot on, I just put a set of catch cans into my BRZ today
The first can is dry, because the system doesnt work the way you think it does.
The Driver side (connected to the Air Intake) is a Crank Case breather, it pulls air never pushes it. Your crank has to be under constant pressure, the PCV is to make sure pressure doesnt get too high. All the Driver side does is suck air through to push it the other side. The system flows like this.
Air Intake (Fresh Air) > Crankcase breather (Driver Side) > PCV System > Intake Manifold.
I never knew about the denaturing of the fuel. Getting an AOS today!
Well worth it my friend! 🔥
Well, that definitely clears things up.
if you get a catch can rather than the aos, you can monitor the health of your engine. increased oil in your catch can may be a sign of piston ring wear
I think Catch CAN is better than the oil separator. If the oil has been contaminated with water then that oil isn't good for the system.
Nice. I like how the oil is put back into the system with the AOS. Convenient. Never knew the difference and now I do! Thx bro 😎
Anytime 🔥
I just want to say thank you for the education! I appreciate your videos my dude 🙏
Anytime!!!
Just picked up my 21’ sti and your videos are godsend. Love the work, keep it up ! ✌️
Eyyyyy congrats on the car 🔥😁
It's also to keep your throttle and intake clean
Great video. These work great (a o s) I have seen these on diesel engines catch on fire because they were not maintained meaning cleaned and filters replaced during every oil change.
Here is another benefit to running a Catch can vs an AOS: being able to monitor/measure/validate that the system is working properly. With an AOS it's fire and forget, which provides no means to monitor/measure/validate how much the system is filtering out. Being a "touchy-feely" guy, I want to know exactly what is being pulled out of the PCV system. I personally don't want to dump any of that crap back into the oil system (cause it ain't just oil!!!). Being able to monitor/record collections allows me to see changes over time, where the AOS doesn't. So I'll take the CC over the AOS and feel confident in my findings, versus only assuming. And the first 3 letters of assuming is _ _ _. 'Nuff said.
The reason why it was so liquidy as you referred to the engine oil in the catch is not due to water because it would be milky like Yellowish lol it's simply due to the fuel vapours from the combustion process. That's why the oil looks thinner is because it's been diluted with gasoline after the vapours condensed within the catch can. I'm gonna have to do my own video. I see so much misinformation out there with improper set ups due to misunderstandings on how the engine operates with a clean side and a dirty side.
I would definitely get the IAG AOS.
I installed a Cork Sport oil catch can on my 2019 MAZDA CX-5 2.5 L. turbo. At 6,000+ miles I drained 1/3 cup of nasty-looking brown liquid from the OCC. My air/oil separator would have put that crap BACK into my crankcase!
Nevertheless I will have my intake valves cleaned at my dealer with BG cleaner with an induction rig.
->TIP: loosen the "dipstick" when draining your OCC to let air in and drain the can properly.
The fluid gets pretty nasty of them, my current AOS vents everything out which helps to keep the fun luqid out
The catch can on the passenger side seem to be the one needed. I just installed this one. But beware, check the hose that it comes with. Mine was a piece of junk and actually busted, causing an engine light code, due to pressure imbalance. Get a good quality, non-collapsible hose.
Interesting video and well done. Not sure I 100% agree with all of your statements/philosophy but the video is well done and I appreciated the intro to some new brands.
My vehicle engine has a built in oil separator. I added a catch can. I don't find much oil in the can, but I do get water condensation.
What about the 100's of posts on reddit saying bad things about the aos. I have a iag aos sitting on my bench contemplating on not installing after all my research....just about to watch this video, hope it changes my mind! Love the content tho keep the solid work! 👌
i LOVE how those catch cans have a dip stick
Makes checking them easy 🔥
old video so late comment but I would have taken the can from the driver's side and attached it to the passenger side downstream of the can that is catching oil, just as a test to see how much the second can would catch in comparison, to get an idea how much oil vapor makes it past the first catch can. I am curious just how much oil the can is actually catching? 80%, 10% or less? how would you even know unless you are some how able to catch 100% of the vapor before the intake then do the math on what a single catch can gets.
It’s crazy watching this video after watching your current ones. The amount of progress and change in the sti and your channel is awesome.
Def come a long way 🥳😁
I think catch cans will be better for people who want to monitor engine extremely closely by measuring how much oil blow-by every X amount of miles or engine run time.
Another solid reason for cans 🔥 I use a large catch can on my STI now
@@Smeedia I was watching motoiq video on catch cans but if you intend to track a car, apparently catch cans can fill up pretty quickly.
I got the IAG AOS and want the radium setup now because I can’t actually see the oil getting caught lol I’m paranoid it’s not doing it’s job
I've been advised by a very reputable local tuner/builder to not run catch cans or AOSs because with our cold weather, the tubing tends to plug up and freeze causing the crankcase to pressurize and cause other issues. What are your thoughts?
In very cold climates it can cause any moisture in the trunk line to freeze and plug the return hole. But it needs to be very cold continuously for that
What collects in my catch can is a lot of water and just a little bit of oil and sometimes the can gets full of water in only a few hundred miles. I have to check it often in winter as I was making lots of short trips.
Normal for cold climate and short trips. At least the cans are doing their job 💪
Wait, if its full of water then what is happening in a AOS setup?
@@MrPunch09 👀
@@wildcatz49 I think no one wants to answer this question is because we already know the water is making its way back. Makes me think a catch can is more sensible. Obviously you have to schedule you maintenance to empty the can, but they do have catch cans with an overflow.
@@MrPunch09 yea, I've been on other vids looking for answers. I'm going with a catch can. Just bought a zl1 camaro
IAG AOS install super easy. Catch can install super easy. Love my AOS from IAG super beneficial. Highly highly recommend
100%, ive had thr IAG on my STI for a while now and always does the job 🔥
9:18 the answer. Catch cans require draining but also the air oil separator is not made for all cars . To find a hole that leads back into the crank case matching all pressure to not throw off a code? Its very specific . I'll take the 25$ oil catch can works fine just add sum fresh oil if it's low but low oil won't kill ur car
Very true 🙌
IAG just announced couple days ago that they're releasing their V3 AOS in the fall, I'm excited can't wait great video bro!!!
Bruhhh. I just bought mine wtf lol
I sae that, they will have a conversion from the V2 to the V3 avaliable also 🙏
the catch can look handy for monitoring blow by. would be good if air/oil separator could monitor too,
A couple of tea spoons is not bad... better then a couple of quarts! ( My Chevy due to bad timing chain cover gaskets, resulting in a new cheap timing chain from AutoZone which resulted in a newer engine)
I know this is a mod channel (subed & love the videos) but how many WRX or STI owners watch but don't have any thoughts of modding. Owned 2 WRX's now have a 2017 STI, It will being staying stock
Appreciate the support! Plenty of people keep their cars stock 🔥😁
I keep mine stock but I do reliability and longevity mods. Catch cans, cylinder 4 cooling mod, fuel stumble correction kit, pro tuned.
Which one is better for colder weather.
Definitely catch can. :)
Hello Sir! I know you said both Oil Catch can & Air oil separator works similar!
What you suggest to work better for 2013 BMW 535i GT Twin Turbo Charge?
Thanks in advance
by the way I don’t care about the price at all
I just want the best for the engine.
Catch cans, will help keep some of the moisture of the oil system 🙏
Good video , I've tried several on WRX/STI , and Forester's , never collected much on any of them guess I drive too slow . As a matter of fact I took mine off my current 2 liter STI cause after two years dry I figured it's just taking up space but if I was planning on track day's I would put a good AOS back on !
Glsd to hear that you've got a healthy engine 🔥😁
What filtering internal setup works the best? I have been looking hard and long for several days on end trying to discover which brand of catch can has what filter set-up on the inside and MOST IMPORTANTLY which filtering mechanism is the ULTIMATE at not only allowing oil and water vapor into the catch device but also the prevention of the oil and vapor to get pulled back into the intake. And to add to that, which device(s) may cause “restrictions” to the crankcase ventilation system - and what about the factory PVC devices do they get removed?
So, you recommend this for every WRX, but Subaru tells me installing one will void my warranty. I have a brand new 2020 WRX with only 4000 kms on it. Should I wait?
Unfortunately it will void it, but it is something I suggest doing qhen your outside of warranty
bad things happen when you pee in your oil... got it 👌🤣
So the 4-6k mile check of the catch cans is exactly why I went single can on my WRX and did passenger side only. Saved money since the driver side can seems useless from multiple videos. Do you think I made the wrong decision?
Not at all, as long as your remembering to empty it, you make a solid choice 🔥
I like the Cobb/IAG for the lazer engraving. The IAG sticker kinda discolors and comes off due to the heat. Think it's just a couple of bucks more for the rebranding. Worth it !!
True, it does look 🔥🔥🔥
I run the dual catch can setup from Radium in my STI. I like them better than the AOS I had that always wanted to leak coolant.
I had one of my IAG ones do the same 🙃
Great information. But what about diesel engines. I have not heard of catch cans with diesels. They have much higher compression than gasoline engines. Thanks.
Hey man I have a 20FA-20 lol it’s my first subie she’s all stock haven’t done nothing at all but seeing your video has me thinking the obvious better choice would be an (AOS) but seeing your set up on your BRZ running dual catch cans seems like that kind of set up is more than enough to keep the engine healthy and happy as long as it’s not being pushed too far beyond reasonable HP it’s tuned to handle and what’s the price difference between the two setups you showed on this episode ? Huge fan of the channel too man very well organized material and subie 😎🤟🏽
Eyyyy honestly a single catch can would be more than sufficient. Radium makes some pretty affordable options. I know Crawford was working on an AOS for that engine but nkt sure in price point of it yet 🙏
Appreciate the video. Just saw it, sold on both setups for reliability. So is an air oil separator, worthless without the coolant connections?
Not worthless but thr coolant connections help to keep moisture from building up by keeping the AOS the same temp as the engine
My car has neither. I’ve had the TMIC off numerous times, and luckily not a smudge of oil in the IC or throttle body. Guess I’ve been very lucky with that so far. I can’t believe the previous owner never installed one based on everything else they did when they built the motor. But I do plan on getting one of the Grimmspeed AOS if they ever become available again. Not many other options for 03..
I would advise any, literally any other AOS
could be that your pcv is plugged and you're simply living with crank case pressure.
Great video as always! What was your reasoning for going AOS on the blubaru and dual catch cans on the BRZ and not both AOS or both catch cans? Wanted to try each out?
Wanted to be able to compare the two as both cars are driven. Personally I have no prefrence on either option. Theyrr both good to have but catch cans will typically always be cheaper
Finally a video on this topic, I was thinking of running the boomba cans but probably will go the iag aos
Both are good options IMO, I'm starting to lean towards cans a little mkre over AOS after seeing the inside of that IAG.
Smeedia if only install one catch can which one do you recommend will catch more oil on the FA20 motor?
Thr passenger side off of thr PCV valve 🙏
Question buddy
Had a 2014 F-150 JLT oil separator had to empty it every other fill up with gas it definitely worked very well
Just traded for 2018 F-150 purchased a brand new JLT 3.0 oil separator 3000 mi not one drop of oil so far concerned something isn't right can you tell me is this normal?
Normal, some engines are better with engine consumption than others. So if your not seeing a ton your rings are probably seated very well
@@Smeedia awesome thank you so much for the info if that is the case would you recommend leaving it on I have lost maybe 2 mi per gallon on my economy thank you so much
I noticed you saying you were going to dedicate a video strictly for that while going through the build process and I haven't been able to find it, or one that shows what hose/ports to plug or connect too. Can you make a video on your AOS Set up on your 2005 Impreza WRX STI? I wanted to know how to mount it to the car and the way you ran your lines. Unfortunately, my car will not have a front mount intercooler so it might be slightly different but that's okay because everything else is the same. I'll just have to tuck things really good
I did a 3port mishi catch can
Only on stock boost but its great, there isn't much blow by
If anyone else wants to do it:
- Tjoint both sides of the rocker cover into one catch can input (this is what the black pipe at the bottom of the intercooler does from factory)
- pcv vent in to the other catch can input
- output to the turbo inlet
I would like an aos one day
Glaf that its working out for you 🙏😁
Gunna throw one on my 06 gxp. Seen i was blowing blue smoke on decel and start up. Pulled the valve cover to see a gummed up pcv baffle. Gunna put a catch can as precaution as I drilled out the valve cover baffle so it would not clog again
Not a bad idea, hopefully helps to clear up the issue 🙌
I run a oil catch can already on my EVO8 MR, would I need to change to a AOS? What benefits would the AOS make over the catch can? Luv ur vlogs on JDM cars bro!!!
In my thought process, wouldn’t the oil that you are returning back to the system with an AOS be contaminated with other substances? What are your thoughts on this possibly contaminating all of your oil? Should you just decrease the intervals between oil changes?
Its always a possibility of pushing some contamination back through the system
Wouldn't this happen regardless if you just had the stock PCV system?
@@aspenwagon04 thats what im wondering too
All of your oil is being containminated by the blowby from piston no matter if it went thru the pcv or not, that's why you have an engine oil filter.
Idk about “exploding the engine” it’s not a completely pressurized system just ambient I thought. Definitely would blow seals tho
i did the crawford v3 aos on my 18 wrx. i put it on at a late 19k on the car. better later than never!
Oh yes! Will still make a noticeable difference 😁
If there's moisture going back into the catch can then isn't it better to have that system than a AOS? I don't have either system yet but I'd personally want to get a catch can to make sure moisture isn't mixed back in the oil.
I had my block reamed out to 2.7L so I probably need one of these systems more than stock builds.
Awesome vid!
I would go with a catch can, you can at least tramp the moisture without any worry of it going back through the system. And hot damn did you go with a stroker kit?
IAG... Keeping your oil pee free for years! They should use that in their ads. Ive been debating whether i wanna run an aos or catch can. Leaning toward catch can because my sti isn't a daily driver and only has 15k on it. Probably wouldn't have to drain them very often.
The catch can would probably be a better way of going, and keeping it pee free 🔥😅
I have been struggling more then I’d to admit in making this decision
Great explanation friend! Thank you! - from Subaru driver Malaysia
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I was literally thinking about this last night since your catch can post on instagram lol
Had to get some interest in it before posting 😉 lol
I live in -30 Degrees celsius winters in Alberta and was told AOS can freeze the lines and potentially blow up. ANy suggestions for catch cans?
Radoum catch cans would be my suggestion 🙏
I have a 17' Forester XT (the same engine FA20DIT as the WRX for the most part). It gets slightly rough idle on warm up after a few thousand miles before an oil change. I use CRC Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner before oil changes. This seems to fix it for a while. The intake manifold sensor seems to get pretty oily. I think an Air Oil Separator would help. Thoughts? This my first Subi & turbo gas vehicle.
Definitely would help, wouldent be pushing nearly as much oil back into the system 🔥
I have the same model, did you end up getting the AOS? Any difference?
love Radium stuff...thinking of their aos as I have their bmc brace and their aos mounts to their bmc brace. this should leave room for the AEM strut bar I'm eyeing for the near future...still curious is to why Subaru didn't engineer an AOS into their engine design from the get go on the FA/FB series engines.. 🤔
Ooooo EG33. Love that engine.
Yesssss 😁😁😁
It has become the norm, engine block teardown on Subaru videos.
Thought - since the "oil" in the catch can was "liquid-y" and possibly having more than just oil, having that go back into the system doesn't sound as good of an idea in case it contaminates the engine oil (making the catch can a better option?)?