A tip for you when dealing with stuff like this, VCRs etc. which have gears and rely on proper timing. Get yourself a marker pen and mark the position of the gears relative to each other before disassembly. If you look at those gears you will see they have timing marks (small holes) that should line up with each other when you put it all back together. On some gears the timing marks are small arrows that should point to each other. Something to watch out for in future.
So frustrating to watch. Unfortunately he couldn't hear me shouting "Nooooo! Don't take it apart until you've marked the timing!" Seriously, has he never dismantled an optical mech before?
Vince, you made my day! I am the original owner of this B&O CD player along with the matching Beocord cassette tape player, Beomaster AM/FM radio/amp and the Beomaster remote. I even have the amazing Beolab Penta speakers. The entire system has been in perfect working order. However, some months ago the CD player stopped working. As you discovered in your CD player, the loading tray in mine kept going in and out, in and out and wouldn't play the CD. Thanks to you, I fiddled with that little micro-switch on the loading door and cleaned the CD sensor. It totally fixed the issue I was having and plays good as new again. You saved me tons of time and likely hundreds of dollars in repair costs had I taken it to someone who could work on my CD player (if I could even find such a person in Seattle). I didn't even have to do any disassembly since your video pointed me to the likely cause of the problem. So, thank you once again.
I love B&O devices, they were the top end of the electronics market and out of reach for 99.9% of the population. I was lucky my grandfather spent a few years in Denmark in the 70's and fell in love with them then and refused to have any other devices if a B&O one was available. The sound, quality, design and pure gadgetry of them back then was so far beyond anything else and your video's stand as testament to how good they are even today. Keep the video's coming my friend. They are both entertaining and informative.
B&O is all about design, integration and ease of use. They were decades ahead of the competition in the 70'es and 80'es. Today the competition has caught up and B&O struggles to even make earnings. I remember they had 2 lines of CRT television lines when my dad baught a new television. I went to school with a friend whos dad had a B&O only Store, and we were talking about why they looked exactly alike, and the specs was about the same but the top line was roughly double the price. The big line cost was back then roughly 14.000,- dkr and the "cheap" one was about 8.000,- dkr so I remember asking why the big difference in price as they were aparently almost the same televission. The cheap line was actually a Phillips design made for B&O wich just got a B&O mod with their IR controller and a B&O chassis and speaker design which has allways been top quality compared to everything else. The top line was designed and produced in Denmark with the same Phillips CRT devices, but the CRT's was all handpicked and tested in Struer. They returned about 50% of the CRT's back to Phillips because they didn't meet the quality check. I was back in 1981 at the age of 14 in job practician in a small radio and television repair shop, and I remember the owner showed me a top line Beomaster 8000 which was in for repair. Inside the device he just had to lift up a multi pin connector chord, turn it 90 degree and pluck it in again. Then turn the unit on and it would provide error codes in the display what was wrong. Thats 40 years ago they were that far in providing build in diagnostic systems. But despite all this B&O was never about delivering top of the line music experience for the enthusiasts. It was about delivering good quality music and vision quality in a top of the line design and integrate it all over the house with their link system in one wireless controller for those that like designer stuff and have the money to pay for it. To be honest most of B&O sound devices is mediocre to "good" at the best, soundvise. But the devices are super high quality build. It is kinda insane today, a B&O Flatscreen cost 70.000,- dkr (little over 10.000 $) they even offer 10.000 for your old flatscreen in denmark if you buy a new B&O flatscreen. That is just overprice for the design, as a top model Samsung or LG provides at least the same viewing quality and the same integration with todays wireless solutions
Vince, mate! Today i successfully soldered in my first QFN48 pkg chip. As we as couple of 0201 caps. Wow. So smarrr! Tinyful! But your videos gave me courage finally. And you know what??? THE BLOODY THING (tablet that lost sound due to alc5640 failure - burned dot on the old chip) WORKS AND SOUNDS FINE!
Vince, last week you helped me fix a Beocord 5500, and now you are here again to help with my CD 50! I used your video to help take mine apart - I had the same belt issue, plus a totally dislodged disc holder. Everything fixed and working now.
That would have wound up on my pile of disassembled failures because I have no patience. That's why I have a whole room in my house of failed electronic repairs. Cheers on the great job!
Fixed! I had to wait a week for the belt to come from Portugal but all sorted thanks to Vince and this excellent video. Most important thing for me was to set the man timing cog in the right position, i took lots of photos of the timing cog in various positions ie: drawer fully closed, fully open and closed with the clamp raised (important), cleaned the laser with isopropyl and general clean up inside with contact cleaner too and now the player works like a dream and sounds surprisingly good!
I must compliment you on having the patience to put it together and take it apart over and over ... Not having enough knowledge myself I have dismantled many things and put them back together again and again ... You have inspired me to continue practicing patience ...you are gifted... You are talented as I know only god could have given you such enthusiasm to reach the ultimate goal of success ... Blessing to you and your family and please continue to bring light to us amature repairmen... Raul... PS would like to meet you someday and shake your hand and get your autograph ...
Crikey, B&O. Back in he late 80s I had a friend who was involved in theatre, much older than myself and quite a wealthy chap. At the time I was 27, I had a Rega turntable, a rotel amp and a pair of Monitor Audio loudspeakers, at the time they weren't cheap, but not ridiculously expensive. When my friend invited me to his place to listen to his B&0 system I jumped at the chance, it was the most futuristic , stylish set up I have ever seen, the build quality was amazing, I cant remember how much it cost, but he did tell me and I remember thinking it cost several times the price of my system and couldnt wait to hear it, amazingly and disappointly it sounded very bland, not in the same class as mine sonically. I felt obliged to tell my friend this and to my suprise he agreed and said ''Looks god though doesnt it''. He said to follow him into the main living room of his house and on the sideboard was what we used to call a 'music centre', a single unit with turntable, tuner, cassette and amplifer all built in. He said 'And thats why when I listen to music I listen to it on this, sounds better''. I remember the name of the music centre was SAKAI, not AKAI, and he was right, it sounded far better than the B&0
I like your alternative method for removing circlips. I still use the standard method, which is to loosen it with too much force, causing it to ping off and flying across fhe room. I always thought two hours on your hands and knees swearing like a Trooper trying to find it on rhe carpet was mandatory, but i always learn aomething new on your channel
Nice work! I fixed up one of these a few years back and what an adventure! You don't strictly need to mess around with the adjustment screw at the back (altho I suspect this is the proper way to re-adjust it). Rather the main cog in your video is misaligned with the tray by one or more teeth. Due to the complex nature of the loading mechanism it needs to be perfectly aligned with the tray to close and clamp properly. Otherwise it'll just spit out the disc again. Please also note that it says "Load" in the front of the tray. This is meant indicate a pressure point (or even emulate a button) as you push in the tray to close it. The paint inside the top cover was indeed applied at the factory to provide shielding. It's applied to the bottom of the outer aluminium sheet through a protrusion in the plastic. You will notice a spring mechanism on the left side of the CD transport. This interfaces with the paint to ground when the case is closed, and you will normally see some wear on the paint at the contact point from the spring tension. Supposedly this type of paint was incredibly expensive back in the days.
Beautiful job mate! I had a B & O tangent tracking turntable from the same series years ago that I had to troubleshoot in a similar fashion. I remember the joy I experienced when I figured out all the adjustments and microswitch bits before I got it to function Good job!
I always mark the shaft position and the position of rotation on gears and cams before removing them. Especially ones that are not keyed. The number of problems I have had in the past with gearing mechanisms 😭 I always take a picture and mark them. I really enjoyed the video. Love all your B&O repair videos.
I bought a broken CD50 at Goodwill in December 2018 for $19.99 and have yet to troubleshoot it :P This video has given me new inspiration to get it fixed!
And what a great track to end the video on, ride of the valkaries.. never seen a cd player with a tray eject calibration screw! trust B&O - they make fantastic stuff :)
I love these B&O videos. I live in Denmark, and when i grew up, i used to see these products at friends houses. Friends with RICH parents. They we're unobtainable for most people. So fun seeing how they're all put together. Thanks. I hope you keep them. :o)
It was mainly for rich people who were too dumb to understand technology. Artists who drove a Saab because no one else did and they could tell themselves how special they were. Underneath the B&O CD50 was nothing but Aiwa components, and for the model X that followed the CD50 they used Philips components.
This was so satisfying to watch. Reinforces my view that persistence, patience and thinking a problem through will always win in the end. I must try something similar, and see how I get on.
@1:04:02 The 16:1 almost certainly refers to track 16 index 1. The CD format includes sub-tracks called indexes. This was rarely taken advantage of in commercial CDs so players soon dropped the feature, therefore most people are ignorant of the concept. Generally, pre-roll on a track is index 0 which often shows as a negative time on many players. Players always start at index 1 when you jump to a track but will play through index 0 when the previous track ends. The whole point of the index system was to support jumping within a track to things like different "movements" in an orchestral piece. i.e. A long four-movement orchestral track might have an index 1, 2, 3, and 4 (as well as the aforementioned index 0). In a practical sense, index 0 was usually either blank/quiet time between tracks or the bulk of the fade between tracks on albums where one track fades into the next one. The first track would "end" at the beginning of a fade between tracks, then index 0 of the next track would contain the bulk of the fade (and the player would count from some negative time and move towards zero), and lastly index 1 would start (0:00) at the end of the fade. Hope that explanation makes sense.
I would agree. My very first Sony CD player in 1987 had not only Index shown on the display, but had buttons to jump from track to track, and buttons to jump from index to index mark within each track. While it was a good idea, I don't think any CD publshers ever included Index markers.
@@hotjazzbaby I remember Aerosmith's Pump used indices. "Janie's Got a Gun" was index 2, but index 1 of that track was "Water Song", a short little preamble to the song. I thought the indexing feature was cool, sucks that manufacturers dropped it.
as soon as you took off the gears, and moved them individually, I yelled "Noo, you pushed it all out of alignment,...." - You needed to take the cogs back off, and reposition them properly, and not adjust the screw on the back - as you'll be putting strain on the plastics of the tray.. I'd expect it to fail at some point tbh.... Nice try otherwise though :) - just need to be more careful with the alignment of those... I usually put the tray in the fully-out/ejected position, and reposition the cogs correctly for that, then manually wheel them in (using the one the belt is attached to) and watch for everything being aligned properly before reassembly (switches and all) Glad you (kinda) got it working properly though! :)
@@kurtsoderberg Indeed, some times arrows, some times pin holes you line up, some times they are keyed to the rod/pin etc... easiest way is to mark before removal
Me too - I thought it necessary to go back to video footage showing the initial relative position of the large wheel with the asymmetric top layer vs the door that swings in and out.
Are you certain he didn't get it correctly aligned? I would think that the lifting mechanism, position of the disc, and switches would all be off otherwise. And it seemed like that piece that had the adjustment screw was already bent (probably because someone pressed real hard on it trying to get the screw to adjust).
@@pe1dnn It was a boneheaded move not to mark the gears, but the screw was to replace a seized screw that already existed for adjustment. And furthermore, the piece was bent, likely because the previous person probably applied too much pressure when trying to adjust the seized screw.
Thanks for your informative videos! As several others have pointed out, your patience and attention to detail in the process of finding the fault is important. I also like that you do it without advanced and expensive equipment and tools. You show that everyone can really do it at home and that is inspiring!
Thanks for sharing. I am also into B&O stuff. I own since new (since 1988) a Beo 3300 system and have loved it since. I am in the process of reparing the cassette deck that only needs new belts. Actually, thinking that my original deck had died on me, I bought through eBay another one in mint condition (and price) only to find out that the belt had disintegrated in that one too. So, I now am the proud owner of two decks.
You're a huge improvement over me! If I take something apart it's guaranteed to never go back together again, there will be more or less parts than came from the electronic device and there will be fireworks shooting from it as it commits suicide! I've seen warning labels on electronics specifically addressing me, warning me to drop the screwdriver and back away. It's cool to see someone actually fix something! Great job, great channel!!
Another great video. A gray beard tip you can take or leave. On the screw that you replaced, We used to back off a half a turn place a drop of clear nail polish on the threads and replace it at the proper setting to keep it from backing off. We did this often in electronics anytime it called for something less than locktite.
All gear wheels etc have timing marks, do not rely on a marker pen as sometimes timing gears jump due to the fault. There are usually "V" marks, dots, holes drilled etc that will all line up, so when taking things apart note where the timing marks are close to and align them all when you put t back, sometimes it requires the machine to be in a set position before you align them. You can get by with common sense sometimes, other times you need the service manual. So look for timing marks before you take things off.
There appears to be a slot in the metal chassis under the large gear, which looks to correspond with the large hole in that gear. That might be an indexing hole, slide a thin tool to line up, gear aligned. The tip off was the clacking after the TOC was attempted to be read, then ejection due to being out of battery. Yeah, used to fix the things for a living, back before they became disposable.
Love your videos Vince..... you say you're not an expert in this kind of repair but from your videos, you do a bang good job.... You have a good grasp of the mechanicals and this shows in this video... these old systems often relied on quite complex mechanics to do their job....A VHS recorder for example is horendous to resolve a loading problem, a million and one things to think about and you can't see half of it........ Keep going Vince......
Any time you have gears a cam and switches you have to mark exactly where they are and what they are relative to each other.Because if you get it wrong when you rebuild the results can be catastrophic. Do it on on a valve cam in a car engine Boom!!! 💥 Love your show ,just found it and am loving it as I'm an admirer of anything " Heath Robinson."😊
*I have one of these coming in the mail with exactly the same symptoms. Cost me the same off Ebay too. I was intimidated and not really looking forward to the job but thanks to your video I CANT WAIT to get stuck in!!!!! Thank you thank you thank you!*
your videos of the beogram cd50 & beocord 5500 are a great asset for me as i have these items within my b&o system. engineers are getting lazy, i ended up repairing the cd player of a beocenter 9000 myself, after an engineer told me to scrap it because of its age. (a real numb skull )
The front of that CD player reminds me of my Panasonic DVD recorder, which is just over 15yrs old ( but almost obsolete too) , that Bang Olufsen design was was certainly ahead of its time!
Omg. I was so stressed out at first however, i knew you would fix it. This unit looks like a record player. Good old cd player. I am surprised laser still working. Maybe the original owner used it slightly? Anyways, always a fantastic fabulous video. Keep them coming !!!
5:50 that paint is conductive and provides EMI protection to the sensitive parts inside the unit. It is usually grounded through some metal part (i.e spring coil) that comes in touch to it when assembled.
Genius! Can't thank you enough, thought my CD player was a gonna but mine turned out to have exactly the same problem so I followed your instructions re adjusting that little screw at end of 'arm/door mechanism' thingy(!) and presto works perfectly now. You are the best Kevin!!!XXXX
Burr-Brown technologies are still used by TEAC. I have an A-H01 with their PCM5102 chipset. Amazing quality.!! Well done on your vids. If only I filmed my fixes over the years..!!
Wow, this was a great walk-through. Thank you. I have a Beomaster 6000 that has a volume motor or loose wire issue that I'm trying to troubleshoot in a similar fashion. Would love to add this CD player to my setup... Will be on the lookout for one although I'd be very surprised if I find one at the price you paid! Appreciate your detailed views and narration!
Haven't seen your vid yet, but I am already excited as I have a faulty one as well and found a set of 3 items, the CD50, the Beogram 5000, the Beocord cassette and the remote for just €15,00
This has single handedly got to be the most interesting channel on the whole of TH-cam.I could watch these for hours.In fact I do.You're a very clever person.Just one little thing.I would have put a locknut on that screw that you cut.
Well done Vince you did an excellent job getting it to work again. And the perfect music to finish on, Ride of the valkyries always reminds me of Apocalypse now.
Good job, I was worried about the clicky sounds but it looks ok, and yeah take a pic of the gears or mark them with a sharpie before taking them apart, especially if they are keyed to a sensor
My first video of yours. You have an excellent process of elimination! I spend my life doing this with large databases. A fist pump for you! I repaired my mums telex TV at the age of 12 by a similar process.
Thanks for a very interesting video. It looked like you couldn't turn the adjustment screw, even after you used WD40, because it had a locknut on it. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos, cheers
Thought you might be interested in this "Technically, the CD 50 was a Japanese machine. The cabinet and control system were B&O, but the playback mechanism and electronics were all mounted in a separate and imported subchassis. The manufacturer was never disclosed, though input from the likes of Aiwa, Matsushita and Yamaha is clear upon inspection". I think later versions - 5500 - through 7000 had a fair bit of Phillips. B&O had a lot of collaboration with other manufactures especially on some of their 80's 90's TV's - I imagine other makers did as well. I have the later CD 7000, It goes through belts fairly quickly but they are pretty easy to change (if you have 5 hands that is) 🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣 Love these videos - thank you.
Enjoyable, and well done video. I would mention that when removing components it is always advised to mark their alignment, especially with gears, or servos. if they are not, it is also strongly advised to use magnetized screwdrivers.
Another one purchased from us on eBay! Sorry about the fly. I must've sealed it in with the bubble wrap when it went on the shelf prior to being listed... 🤦🏼♂️
Great video. I always clean up old, sticky grease, with isopropyl alcohol. That whole moving assembly should move really softly, slowly, but without resistance from gunked up grease/dust/dissolved rubber. Those 90s cassette players, cd/dvd or any other devices with moving parts(like ejection/insertion mechanisms) had a thing for slow, smooth moving style. So those are mine 2cents. Clean up that old grease crap, apply new grease (proper grease) and make it slide smooth, with almost a little inertia.
I was 19 and being a Tech in a B&O store was my first job. If i remember correctly, this CD50 was a Philips chassis. I remember repairing JVC and Samsung video players , nicely camouflaged under a B&O design hood. Never was able to buy that premium stuff, until 35 years later :)
I did repair on TV/Audio/VCR in the 90ies and was always disappointed by B&O. They looked good on the outside but were alwas mediocre on the inside. With Technics, Denon Sony etc. it was always the other way around. :)
Great fix Vince! An other thing to think about of the quality of this device ... Its from 1985!! Back then we were using cassettes , CDs were still a very futuristic thing , the fact that this could play this brand new format in such quality , and can still play them today, with a CD that likely is far newer than thr device itself , probably using a newer format and everything , still works !
It's the same format (Red Book standard). A 1982 CD and a 2020 CD both contain 1411kbps 44.1KHz stereo PCM audio. Yes, the maximum capacity increased from 650MB / 74 minutes to 700MB / 80 minutes at some point, but it was done all within the limitations of the format while still complying with the standard.
ew the belted melt! Me fixing my mitsubishi HS-U69 S-VHS deck just the other day. Awesome content, keep up the great videos! Just the kind of content I enjoy watching! Hands-on learning is the best! When it comes to trouble-shooting and general electronic repair I have always been a trile and error learner.
Beautiful work -- you've clearly got excellent mechanical sympathy! I'm not a b&o engineer but i have a bit of experience restoring old ones, and as I'm sure you're discovering as you go that in the main, problems with b&o kit are generally mechanical, rather than electronic. I have late 60s and early '70s amps which are all good as long as the contacts and slider pots are all nice and clean. On your older Beomaster 1900 you had some issues with slider displays that mimic moving light with a single bulb and printed transparencies. B&O loved that stuff, but as you've discovered, these are an annoying weak spot in the engineering. I think you can probably laser print and cut new ones if you can find the right thickness transparency material...
Man, those British Petroleum - Gulf Coast edition - belts give us the deep huzz, having cleaned up many a Phillips Carrycorder - used to collect them...
The front that you're trying to align, the lid that is being closed when a disc in loaded so to speak, can be adjusted by loosening a screw that holds the black rail that operates the opening and closing of that lid. The screw is located somewhere down the middle of the rail, fastened to the bottom of the unit. The bracket has a adjustment slot in it. Be careful though, as I found out that mine broke in two as I over-tightened it all. The bracket is made of plastic...The screw is located somewhere at approximately the range of the yellow wire that runs from the transformer.
Nice video and lovely early cd player, I like that red digital LED number display :) B&O seems to have done very cool players back then, somehow I haven't noticed them before, even I was around in the 80's. Probably because they were very expensive :P I think it was 1989 when my parents bought our first CD player with JVC stereosystem.
You gotta love B&O.... for the 80's / 90's they were the Space 99 of their day.....and like Space 99 today, (2021) looks dated but some models like this one still have nice lines and advanced control like touch sensitive panels. They would however still impress a visitor even today to your abode when you show them the apparent lack of buttons to press and the 'Hidden' panels. I believe they had exceptional sound quality too.....again maybe dated today.... I just visited B & O website and they specialise in Headphones, TV's, Speakers. They don't appear to do this type of equipment, stereo systems....... how sad....
I seem to remember that there were only, I think, just two manufacturers of CD transports, one being Sony the other I cannot remember (maybe Panasonic?) but they were both Japanese. B&O would have controlled the QA and QC and would have designed the decoding electronics as witnessed by the use of a high quality D to A converter. The little screw that you 'graunched' I would have expected to have had an allan key head? B&O, always worth saving! Well done!
Had to jump in on this one my old man mind remembers when cds were big and I was buying them, not knowing the music within. I was stationed in the uk man discovered metallicas black album, I’d give anything to hear it for the first time again. I’ve been on the lookout for a 5 disk kenwood for, yeah , my pioneer deck. One day
I should think that the paint over the cd mechanism is some sort of rf shield, like ‘mu metal' is used on some volume controls and motors in cassette decks.
A tip for you when dealing with stuff like this, VCRs etc. which have gears and rely on proper timing. Get yourself a marker pen and mark the position of the gears relative to each other before disassembly. If you look at those gears you will see they have timing marks (small holes) that should line up with each other when you put it all back together. On some gears the timing marks are small arrows that should point to each other. Something to watch out for in future.
Great tip.
Right on the button!
Beat me to it . as he was removing the cam gear i was going... mark it , MARK IT lol
So frustrating to watch. Unfortunately he couldn't hear me shouting "Nooooo! Don't take it apart until you've marked the timing!" Seriously, has he never dismantled an optical mech before?
True about the timing marks...he still did a good job by trial and error, he did not give up and figured it all out.
Vince, you made my day! I am the original owner of this B&O CD player along with the matching Beocord cassette tape player, Beomaster AM/FM radio/amp and the Beomaster remote. I even have the amazing Beolab Penta speakers. The entire system has been in perfect working order. However, some months ago the CD player stopped working. As you discovered in your CD player, the loading tray in mine kept going in and out, in and out and wouldn't play the CD. Thanks to you, I fiddled with that little micro-switch on the loading door and cleaned the CD sensor. It totally fixed the issue I was having and plays good as new again. You saved me tons of time and likely hundreds of dollars in repair costs had I taken it to someone who could work on my CD player (if I could even find such a person in Seattle). I didn't even have to do any disassembly since your video pointed me to the likely cause of the problem. So, thank you once again.
Excellent news Bill, thanks for the message and well done on fixing it :-)
This video helped my wife and I to repair my late father's Beogram CD 50 and it works brilliantly now! Thank you so much for making this video Vince!!
I love B&O devices, they were the top end of the electronics market and out of reach for 99.9% of the population. I was lucky my grandfather spent a few years in Denmark in the 70's and fell in love with them then and refused to have any other devices if a B&O one was available. The sound, quality, design and pure gadgetry of them back then was so far beyond anything else and your video's stand as testament to how good they are even today.
Keep the video's coming my friend. They are both entertaining and informative.
B&O is all about design, integration and ease of use. They were decades ahead of the competition in the 70'es and 80'es. Today the competition has caught up and B&O struggles to even make earnings.
I remember they had 2 lines of CRT television lines when my dad baught a new television. I went to school with a friend whos dad had a B&O only Store, and we were talking about why they looked exactly alike, and the specs was about the same but the top line was roughly double the price. The big line cost was back then roughly 14.000,- dkr and the "cheap" one was about 8.000,- dkr so I remember asking why the big difference in price as they were aparently almost the same televission. The cheap line was actually a Phillips design made for B&O wich just got a B&O mod with their IR controller and a B&O chassis and speaker design which has allways been top quality compared to everything else. The top line was designed and produced in Denmark with the same Phillips CRT devices, but the CRT's was all handpicked and tested in Struer. They returned about 50% of the CRT's back to Phillips because they didn't meet the quality check.
I was back in 1981 at the age of 14 in job practician in a small radio and television repair shop, and I remember the owner showed me a top line Beomaster 8000 which was in for repair. Inside the device he just had to lift up a multi pin connector chord, turn it 90 degree and pluck it in again. Then turn the unit on and it would provide error codes in the display what was wrong. Thats 40 years ago they were that far in providing build in diagnostic systems.
But despite all this B&O was never about delivering top of the line music experience for the enthusiasts. It was about delivering good quality music and vision quality in a top of the line design and integrate it all over the house with their link system in one wireless controller for those that like designer stuff and have the money to pay for it. To be honest most of B&O sound devices is mediocre to "good" at the best, soundvise. But the devices are super high quality build.
It is kinda insane today, a B&O Flatscreen cost 70.000,- dkr (little over 10.000 $) they even offer 10.000 for your old flatscreen in denmark if you buy a new B&O flatscreen. That is just overprice for the design, as a top model Samsung or LG provides at least the same viewing quality and the same integration with todays wireless solutions
Vince, mate! Today i successfully soldered in my first QFN48 pkg chip. As we as couple of 0201 caps. Wow. So smarrr! Tinyful! But your videos gave me courage finally. And you know what??? THE BLOODY THING (tablet that lost sound due to alc5640 failure - burned dot on the old chip) WORKS AND SOUNDS FINE!
Vince, last week you helped me fix a Beocord 5500, and now you are here again to help with my CD 50! I used your video to help take mine apart - I had the same belt issue, plus a totally dislodged disc holder. Everything fixed and working now.
That would have wound up on my pile of disassembled failures because I have no patience. That's why I have a whole room in my house of failed electronic repairs. Cheers on the great job!
My rule when I get frustrated is to walk away, take a break and come back later. Usually when I return to the job I figure out my mistake right away.
Fixed! I had to wait a week for the belt to come from Portugal but all sorted thanks to Vince and this excellent video. Most important thing for me was to set the man timing cog in the right position, i took lots of photos of the timing cog in various positions ie: drawer fully closed, fully open and closed with the clamp raised (important), cleaned the laser with isopropyl and general clean up inside with contact cleaner too and now the player works like a dream and sounds surprisingly good!
I must compliment you on having the patience to put it together and take it apart over and over ... Not having enough knowledge myself I have dismantled many things and put them back together again and again ... You have inspired me to continue practicing patience ...you are gifted... You are talented as I know only god could have given you such enthusiasm to reach the ultimate goal of success ... Blessing to you and your family and please continue to bring light to us amature repairmen... Raul... PS would like to meet you someday and shake your hand and get your autograph ...
Weird
Crikey, B&O. Back in he late 80s I had a friend who was involved in theatre, much older than myself and quite a wealthy chap. At the time I was 27, I had a Rega turntable, a rotel amp and a pair of Monitor Audio loudspeakers, at the time they weren't cheap, but not ridiculously expensive.
When my friend invited me to his place to listen to his B&0 system I jumped at the chance, it was the most futuristic , stylish set up I have ever seen, the build quality was amazing, I cant remember how much it cost, but he did tell me and I remember thinking it cost several times the price of my system and couldnt wait to hear it, amazingly and disappointly it sounded very bland, not in the same class as mine sonically.
I felt obliged to tell my friend this and to my suprise he agreed and said ''Looks god though doesnt it''. He said to follow him into the main living room of his house and on the sideboard was what we used to call a 'music centre', a single unit with turntable, tuner, cassette and amplifer all built in.
He said 'And thats why when I listen to music I listen to it on this, sounds better''. I remember the name of the music centre was SAKAI, not AKAI, and he was right, it sounded far better than the B&0
If you keep all the B&O products you repair, i would love a video from you, where you give an overview of your collection
same!
same
Also same
Me too
I also!
I like your alternative method for removing circlips. I still use the standard method, which is to loosen it with too much force, causing it to ping off and flying across fhe room. I always thought two hours on your hands and knees swearing like a Trooper trying to find it on rhe carpet was mandatory, but i always learn aomething new on your channel
😂👍
Nice work! I fixed up one of these a few years back and what an adventure! You don't strictly need to mess around with the adjustment screw at the back (altho I suspect this is the proper way to re-adjust it). Rather the main cog in your video is misaligned with the tray by one or more teeth. Due to the complex nature of the loading mechanism it needs to be perfectly aligned with the tray to close and clamp properly. Otherwise it'll just spit out the disc again.
Please also note that it says "Load" in the front of the tray. This is meant indicate a pressure point (or even emulate a button) as you push in the tray to close it.
The paint inside the top cover was indeed applied at the factory to provide shielding. It's applied to the bottom of the outer aluminium sheet through a protrusion in the plastic. You will notice a spring mechanism on the left side of the CD transport. This interfaces with the paint to ground when the case is closed, and you will normally see some wear on the paint at the contact point from the spring tension. Supposedly this type of paint was incredibly expensive back in the days.
Quality comment right here.
Beautiful job mate! I had a B & O tangent tracking turntable from the same series years ago that I had to troubleshoot in a similar fashion. I remember the joy I experienced when I figured out all the adjustments and microswitch bits before I got it to function Good job!
I always mark the shaft position and the position of rotation on gears and cams before removing them. Especially ones that are not keyed. The number of problems I have had in the past with gearing mechanisms 😭 I always take a picture and mark them. I really enjoyed the video. Love all your B&O repair videos.
I bought a broken CD50 at Goodwill in December 2018 for $19.99 and have yet to troubleshoot it :P
This video has given me new inspiration to get it fixed!
I like the way you speed up the boring parts and the lovely classical music you add - really enjoyable video - Well Done !
And what a great track to end the video on, ride of the valkaries.. never seen a cd player with a tray eject calibration screw! trust B&O - they make fantastic stuff :)
I love these B&O videos. I live in Denmark, and when i grew up, i used to see these products at friends houses. Friends with RICH parents. They we're unobtainable for most people. So fun seeing how they're all put together. Thanks. I hope you keep them. :o)
It was mainly for rich people who were too dumb to understand technology. Artists who drove a Saab because no one else did and they could tell themselves how special they were.
Underneath the B&O CD50 was nothing but Aiwa components, and for the model X that followed the CD50 they used Philips components.
This was so satisfying to watch. Reinforces my view that persistence, patience and thinking a problem through will always win in the end. I must try something similar, and see how I get on.
@1:04:02 The 16:1 almost certainly refers to track 16 index 1. The CD format includes sub-tracks called indexes. This was rarely taken advantage of in commercial CDs so players soon dropped the feature, therefore most people are ignorant of the concept. Generally, pre-roll on a track is index 0 which often shows as a negative time on many players. Players always start at index 1 when you jump to a track but will play through index 0 when the previous track ends. The whole point of the index system was to support jumping within a track to things like different "movements" in an orchestral piece. i.e. A long four-movement orchestral track might have an index 1, 2, 3, and 4 (as well as the aforementioned index 0).
In a practical sense, index 0 was usually either blank/quiet time between tracks or the bulk of the fade between tracks on albums where one track fades into the next one. The first track would "end" at the beginning of a fade between tracks, then index 0 of the next track would contain the bulk of the fade (and the player would count from some negative time and move towards zero), and lastly index 1 would start (0:00) at the end of the fade. Hope that explanation makes sense.
I would agree. My very first Sony CD player in 1987 had not only Index shown on the display, but had buttons to jump from track to track, and buttons to jump from index to index mark within each track. While it was a good idea, I don't think any CD publshers ever included Index markers.
My 86 Marantz cd had those “never used commercially” indez functions.
I came on here to say the same thing (only it wouldn't have been as comprehensive as your reply).
Indexes used mostly for classical music!
@@hotjazzbaby I remember Aerosmith's Pump used indices. "Janie's Got a Gun" was index 2, but index 1 of that track was "Water Song", a short little preamble to the song. I thought the indexing feature was cool, sucks that manufacturers dropped it.
as soon as you took off the gears, and moved them individually, I yelled "Noo, you pushed it all out of alignment,...." - You needed to take the cogs back off, and reposition them properly, and not adjust the screw on the back - as you'll be putting strain on the plastics of the tray..
I'd expect it to fail at some point tbh....
Nice try otherwise though :) - just need to be more careful with the alignment of those...
I usually put the tray in the fully-out/ejected position, and reposition the cogs correctly for that, then manually wheel them in (using the one the belt is attached to) and watch for everything being aligned properly before reassembly (switches and all)
Glad you (kinda) got it working properly though! :)
Can be fixed..there are markers
@@kurtsoderberg Indeed, some times arrows, some times pin holes you line up, some times they are keyed to the rod/pin etc...
easiest way is to mark before removal
Me too - I thought it necessary to go back to video footage showing the initial relative position of the large wheel with the asymmetric top layer vs the door that swings in and out.
Are you certain he didn't get it correctly aligned? I would think that the lifting mechanism, position of the disc, and switches would all be off otherwise. And it seemed like that piece that had the adjustment screw was already bent (probably because someone pressed real hard on it trying to get the screw to adjust).
@@pe1dnn It was a boneheaded move not to mark the gears, but the screw was to replace a seized screw that already existed for adjustment. And furthermore, the piece was bent, likely because the previous person probably applied too much pressure when trying to adjust the seized screw.
Mind-blowing - your enthusiasm and can-do attitude are infectious - thank you for doing what you're doing 👌
Thanks for your informative videos! As several others have pointed out, your patience and attention to detail in the process of finding the fault is important. I also like that you do it without advanced and expensive equipment and tools. You show that everyone can really do it at home and that is inspiring!
Thanks for sharing. I am also into B&O stuff. I own since new (since 1988) a Beo 3300 system and have loved it since. I am in the process of reparing the cassette deck that only needs new belts. Actually, thinking that my original deck had died on me, I bought through eBay another one in mint condition (and price) only to find out that the belt had disintegrated in that one too. So, I now am the proud owner of two decks.
You're a huge improvement over me! If I take something apart it's guaranteed to never go back together again, there will be more or less parts than came from the electronic device and there will be fireworks shooting from it as it commits suicide! I've seen warning labels on electronics specifically addressing me, warning me to drop the screwdriver and back away. It's cool to see someone actually fix something! Great job, great channel!!
Another great video.
A gray beard tip you can take or leave. On the screw that you replaced, We used to back off a half a turn place a drop of clear nail polish on the threads and replace it at the proper setting to keep it from backing off. We did this often in electronics anytime it called for something less than locktite.
the metal part can be bended for fine adjustment i guess ?
Great Video ... I appreciate the opportunity to watch you work ... Way to keep your composure ... Thanks!
What a gorgeous machine. A Bang and Olufsen classic for £59!?? Amazing work. :-)
I almost started watching the quick version. Dodged a bullet there. Long version, all day, every day, thank you very much.
All gear wheels etc have timing marks, do not rely on a marker pen as sometimes timing gears jump due to the fault. There are usually "V" marks, dots, holes drilled etc that will all line up, so when taking things apart note where the timing marks are close to and align them all when you put t back, sometimes it requires the machine to be in a set position before you align them. You can get by with common sense sometimes, other times you need the service manual. So look for timing marks before you take things off.
There appears to be a slot in the metal chassis under the large gear, which looks to correspond with the large hole in that gear. That might be an indexing hole, slide a thin tool to line up, gear aligned.
The tip off was the clacking after the TOC was attempted to be read, then ejection due to being out of battery.
Yeah, used to fix the things for a living, back before they became disposable.
Love your videos Vince..... you say you're not an expert in this kind of repair but from your videos, you do a bang good job....
You have a good grasp of the mechanicals and this shows in this video... these old systems often relied on quite complex mechanics to do their job....A VHS recorder for example is horendous to resolve a loading problem, a million and one things to think about and you can't see half of it........
Keep going Vince......
Me and my missus have missed you. It's been a looong week without any new videos from you. Thanks for uploading
I call you know My Mate Human Johnson
Any time you have gears a cam and switches you have to mark exactly where they are and what they are relative to each other.Because if you get it wrong when you rebuild the results can be catastrophic. Do it on on a valve cam in a car engine Boom!!! 💥 Love your show ,just found it and am loving it as I'm an admirer of anything " Heath Robinson."😊
*I have one of these coming in the mail with exactly the same symptoms. Cost me the same off Ebay too. I was intimidated and not really looking forward to the job but thanks to your video I CANT WAIT to get stuck in!!!!! Thank you thank you thank you!*
your videos of the beogram cd50 & beocord 5500 are a great asset for me as i have these items within my b&o system. engineers are getting lazy, i ended up repairing the cd player of a beocenter 9000 myself, after an engineer told me to scrap it because of its age. (a real numb skull )
Excellent repair Vince =D I like that manual adjustment there to get the front panel perfectly aligned! A precision piece of kit!
Thank you Chris, yes that front panel alignment is lovely :-)
Fair play when I stumbled across this channel I didn’t really think much of it. But many hours of videos later I think it’s bloody brilliant!! 😂
The front of that CD player reminds me of my Panasonic DVD recorder, which is just over 15yrs old ( but almost obsolete too) , that Bang Olufsen design was was certainly ahead of its time!
Omg. I was so stressed out at first however, i knew you would fix it. This unit looks like a record player. Good old cd player. I am surprised laser still working. Maybe the original owner used it slightly? Anyways, always a fantastic fabulous video. Keep them coming !!!
5:50 that paint is conductive and provides EMI protection to the sensitive parts inside the unit. It is usually grounded through some metal part (i.e spring coil) that comes in touch to it when assembled.
Close, but in this case it’s primarily , to limit EMC emissions from the player affecting other devices.
@@crcomments8509 Yes, the protection works both ways.
Thats what I suspected it was as well. It looks like conductive paint. A simple continuity test on a meter would prove that if in doubt.
Genius! Can't thank you enough, thought my CD player was a gonna but mine turned out to have exactly the same problem so I followed your instructions re adjusting that little screw at end of 'arm/door mechanism' thingy(!) and presto works perfectly now. You are the best Kevin!!!XXXX
Burr-Brown technologies are still used by TEAC. I have an A-H01 with their PCM5102 chipset. Amazing quality.!! Well done on your vids. If only I filmed my fixes over the years..!!
“Sunny Side Up” is so appropriate for that disc mechanism.
I bought a couple broken Bang and Olufsen components to fix after watching your videos on them, just waiting for parts.
giving the courage :)
OMG thank you, i have always wondered what those holes are for on my crimps and amount of times I've bent them using the wire cutters for bolts
Im curious, why would anyone downvote these videos? Vince doing what he likes, at his pace, why people hating? Think you can do better? Lets see it.
well done mate, great result.
Wow, this was a great walk-through. Thank you. I have a Beomaster 6000 that has a volume motor or loose wire issue that I'm trying to troubleshoot in a similar fashion. Would love to add this CD player to my setup... Will be on the lookout for one although I'd be very surprised if I find one at the price you paid! Appreciate your detailed views and narration!
Haven't seen your vid yet, but I am already excited as I have a faulty one as well and found a set of 3 items, the CD50, the Beogram 5000, the Beocord cassette and the remote for just €15,00
This has single handedly got to be the most interesting channel on the whole of TH-cam.I could watch these for hours.In fact I do.You're a very clever person.Just one little thing.I would have put a locknut on that screw that you cut.
That was a brilliant bit of diagnosis. I very much enjoyed it and along with comments here, learned a lot.
You are a certified tinkerdink. Thanks.
Super video and lovely to see the B&O with a new lease of life ✌️
Fantastic, your patience & perseverance payed off, It was a joy to watch, thankyou. 😊
Well done Vince you did an excellent job getting it to work again. And the perfect music to finish on, Ride of the valkyries always reminds me of Apocalypse now.
Now I can see why B&O costs the earth, really interesting video Vince.. Thank You
Today it is PHILIPS rubbish. See my comment. I have one from the 60s still goin today!
Vince that is one classy looking cd player, very nice.
Good job, I was worried about the clicky sounds but it looks ok, and yeah take a pic of the gears or mark them with a sharpie before taking them apart, especially if they are keyed to a sensor
Wow very well done. I thought this was gonna be a fail but you stuck with it and figured it out. Good job.
My first video of yours. You have an excellent process of elimination! I spend my life doing this with large databases. A fist pump for you! I repaired my mums telex TV at the age of 12 by a similar process.
Thanks for a very interesting video. It looked like you couldn't turn the adjustment screw, even after you used WD40, because it had a locknut on it. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos, cheers
Lovely repair! It is so satisfying to have a successful repair.
This was so enjoyable to watch Vince. I love the diversity of your channel.
+1
Thought you might be interested in this
"Technically, the CD 50 was a Japanese machine. The cabinet and control system were B&O, but the playback mechanism and electronics were all mounted in a separate and imported subchassis. The manufacturer was never disclosed, though input from the likes of Aiwa, Matsushita and Yamaha is clear upon inspection".
I think later versions - 5500 - through 7000 had a fair bit of Phillips.
B&O had a lot of collaboration with other manufactures especially on some of their 80's 90's TV's - I imagine other makers did as well.
I have the later CD 7000, It goes through belts fairly quickly but they are pretty easy to change (if you have 5 hands that is) 🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣
Love these videos - thank you.
Enjoyable, and well done video. I would mention that when removing components it is always advised to mark their alignment, especially with gears, or servos. if they are not, it is also strongly advised to use magnetized screwdrivers.
Another one purchased from us on eBay! Sorry about the fly. I must've sealed it in with the bubble wrap when it went on the shelf prior to being listed... 🤦🏼♂️
Were you also the sellers of the B&O cassette deck and tuner/amplifier also repaired on this channel...?
@@RWL2012 The BeoCord 5500 yes... not the BeoMaster 1900 though
Bravo !!! La platine est trop belle !!! Well done !!! The deck is so beautiful !!!
Great video. I always clean up old, sticky grease, with isopropyl alcohol. That whole moving assembly should move really softly, slowly, but without resistance from gunked up grease/dust/dissolved rubber. Those 90s cassette players, cd/dvd or any other devices with moving parts(like ejection/insertion mechanisms) had a thing for slow, smooth moving style.
So those are mine 2cents. Clean up that old grease crap, apply new grease (proper grease) and make it slide smooth, with almost a little inertia.
Great to watch , great patience and detective work. 👍
Thanks Vince, I really enjoy all your videos, keep up the great work 👌👍👍
I was 19 and being a Tech in a B&O store was my first job. If i remember correctly, this CD50 was a Philips chassis. I remember repairing JVC and Samsung video players , nicely camouflaged under a B&O design hood. Never was able to buy that premium stuff, until 35 years later :)
No. This machine had an Aiwa mechanism and electronics, highly modified by B&O.
I did repair on TV/Audio/VCR in the 90ies and was always disappointed by B&O. They looked good on the outside but were alwas mediocre on the inside. With Technics, Denon Sony etc. it was always the other way around. :)
very impressed with your repair on this top end cd player by B&O hopefully i can find a similar bargain on ebay
Great video Vince.
Excellent rescue of a quality product. Well done.
I saw you removing the big gear then moving the small gear underneath and thought, hmmm you better watch out for that.
Really enjoyed your video on what is a very dry subject thanks.
Great fix Vince!
An other thing to think about of the quality of this device ... Its from 1985!! Back then we were using cassettes , CDs were still a very futuristic thing , the fact that this could play this brand new format in such quality , and can still play them today, with a CD that likely is far newer than thr device itself , probably using a newer format and everything , still works !
It's the same format (Red Book standard). A 1982 CD and a 2020 CD both contain 1411kbps 44.1KHz stereo PCM audio. Yes, the maximum capacity increased from 650MB / 74 minutes to 700MB / 80 minutes at some point, but it was done all within the limitations of the format while still complying with the standard.
ew the belted melt! Me fixing my mitsubishi HS-U69 S-VHS deck just the other day. Awesome content, keep up the great videos! Just the kind of content I enjoy watching! Hands-on learning is the best! When it comes to trouble-shooting and general electronic repair I have always been a trile and error learner.
Beautiful work -- you've clearly got excellent mechanical sympathy! I'm not a b&o engineer but i have a bit of experience restoring old ones, and as I'm sure you're discovering as you go that in the main, problems with b&o kit are generally mechanical, rather than electronic. I have late 60s and early '70s amps which are all good as long as the contacts and slider pots are all nice and clean. On your older Beomaster 1900 you had some issues with slider displays that mimic moving light with a single bulb and printed transparencies. B&O loved that stuff, but as you've discovered, these are an annoying weak spot in the engineering. I think you can probably laser print and cut new ones if you can find the right thickness transparency material...
Love B&O. This item took me back. Many thanks MMV.
Man, those British Petroleum - Gulf Coast edition - belts give us the deep huzz, having cleaned up many a Phillips Carrycorder - used to collect them...
Really intresting the build quality is very good on these machines apart from small things. 🙂
Nice work and kudos on the Paolo Nutini disc.
The front that you're trying to align, the lid that is being closed when a disc in loaded so to speak, can be adjusted by loosening a screw that holds the black rail that operates the opening and closing of that lid. The screw is located somewhere down the middle of the rail, fastened to the bottom of the unit. The bracket has a adjustment slot in it. Be careful though, as I found out that mine broke in two as I over-tightened it all. The bracket is made of plastic...The screw is located somewhere at approximately the range of the yellow wire that runs from the transformer.
Nice video and lovely early cd player, I like that red digital LED number display :) B&O seems to have done very cool players back then, somehow I haven't noticed them before, even I was around in the 80's. Probably because they were very expensive :P I think it was 1989 when my parents bought our first CD player with JVC stereosystem.
Hey Vince, I love your Mascot, it was very lively throughout the whole video, must have enjoyed the repair as much as you did!
These are nice machines Vince nice one
Wow good job mate, wish I could have such steady hands to do such an amazing job! Cheers from the USA!
Definitely think you should stack up all the B&O gear and make a video of it
You gotta love B&O.... for the 80's / 90's they were the Space 99 of their day.....and like Space 99 today, (2021) looks dated but some models like this one still have nice lines and advanced control like touch sensitive panels.
They would however still impress a visitor even today to your abode when you show them the apparent lack of buttons to press and the 'Hidden' panels.
I believe they had exceptional sound quality too.....again maybe dated today....
I just visited B & O website and they specialise in Headphones, TV's, Speakers. They don't appear to do this type of equipment, stereo systems....... how sad....
Real audiophiles hated B&O. As it was usually overpriced third party crap, and SURE as hell NOT worth it's money.
It was a status thing.
Really good fun watching you fix this one. Good job.
I seem to remember that there were only, I think, just two manufacturers of CD transports, one being Sony the other I cannot remember (maybe Panasonic?) but they were both Japanese. B&O would have controlled the QA and QC and would have designed the decoding electronics as witnessed by the use of a high quality D to A converter. The little screw that you 'graunched' I would have expected to have had an allan key head? B&O, always worth saving! Well done!
An absolutely gorgeous, simple unit. I'd hove you have a spot in your house to keep it.
Had to jump in on this one my old man mind remembers when cds were big and I was buying them, not knowing the music within. I was stationed in the uk man discovered metallicas black album, I’d give anything to hear it for the first time again. I’ve been on the lookout for a 5 disk kenwood for, yeah , my pioneer deck. One day
g`day vince you just made my day vince appreciate the upload ..... now time to enjoy
Nice job Vince. Quality product, quality repair and quality video. 👍
that smug sense of self satisfaction when you finally achieve success with projects like these is an AWESOME feeling! :)
I should think that the paint over the cd mechanism is some sort of rf shield, like ‘mu metal' is used on some volume controls and motors in cassette decks.
Thanks for the info Andrew :-)
@@Mymatevince @ 39:48 you can see the spring (bent up wire) on the Left that contacts the shielding paint when it's assembled
@@gordonp6353 Oh yes, I remember seeing that spring....now I know what it is for. Thank you 😊
Ahh right, i guessed it was either a heat shielding paint or maybe even anti reflective paint with the cd being upside down
Lovely Work Vince and a Lovely CD Player !! Ya Got'a Love CD Mechs he he. Regards mike.
I gots the B&O cd player w/ the dramatically opening glass doors for $10 at the swap meet. Still haven't plugged it in but is sure looks kewl!