I think you are doing an awesome job sir. I don’t know when these videos were made, but I have seen a video where a guy built a differential that was a chain drive. It was a single team that went to the differential, and it look like it worked great.
I had this same issue with a 41.5cc Cobra Scooter ~ the big sales gimmick was that it was a smoother drivetrain due to the use of belts. Hit one puddle and it's all over. I ended up converting it to a #35 chain.
Ive seen alot of russian home made tracked atv videos and the things they seem to have in common are that they use convaier belt straps with bars or cleats to hold them apart and align them on the drive wheels. and second they all seem to use tires on the drive wheels.with the rubber against the metal. I think using the air pressurized tires they can increase the tension on the belts granting more bite. and because the convaier belts dont really stretch much and if they do they have elastic qualities allow them to bounce back. many also have the drive wheels down low and touching the ground so even if the belt slips a bit they have power to ground. as a way to use your existing hardwere I would lay down a pair of straps on the outer edges of your cleats and swap out one of your drive wheels per side with an air pressurized tire or something adjustable for tension. you may need to add taller guides on the cleats to accommodate the tension tire. optionally when adding the straps to the cleats it would be a good time to add rubber, wood, or HD plastic blocks to give you more bite in soft ground.
Wow neat rig, you have invested a lot of time in this project, your right a wet belt just won't cut it for a final drive, your going to need roller chain. I've built a lot of stuff and when you get that kinda torque you need positive drive.
i built a similar unit years ago with snowmobile tracks that worked good , I used an old lawmower hydrostatic transmission , those used on zero turn lawmowers , go to your local scrap yard youl probably find one there.
Been wanting to do a project like this for a long time. Planning on making one but more like a miniature tank. You might consider using the front suspension off a classic VW Beetle. That is a ready made torsion suspension setup. Less fabrication and probably more heavy duty that what you have there.
Nice! The one thing I would recommend is installing a guard for your legs. If you hit a bump or the vehicle lurches your leg could be thrust against those treads... basically cutting you like a saw blade. Just my two-cents worth. Great job though!
I see others have mentioned what was my first thought, adding a drive differential from a small car. Looking around you might find one for free, or close to it. After that, it looks as though you would benefit from using chain sprockets for your drive links instead of belts. Bit more work, but much stronger drive mechanism.
I am by no means an engineer, but perhaps a differential from a small car would work better? It's sturdy, hermetic, and above all, rigid - no slipping at all. You could also still steer with the brakes, as all the power would be directed to the side which gives less resistance. Is that a sound idea?
+Andrew Crews That could work, but when locsked you would not be able to steer at all, so the lock would function only as a last-resort measure to unstuck a slipping vehicle. I think that applying braking force on the slipping track would be enough in most cases.
i had this exact idea, open differential and use left side and right side brakes for steering. my opinion is that it would work. i would love to hear ideas of why it wouldnt so that i dont waste alot of time building, just for it to fail. however, my arguement to Andrew Crews would be that on a wheeled vehicle, you only really get "torque steer" on front wheel drive vehicles and this is due to torque (from the engine) being applied outside (or inside) of the steering knuckle centerline. obviously both sides are the same, so it doesnt really make sense to me why they dont simply cancel each other out. even so, i think that if you welded the steering wheel straight, there wouldnt be a noticeable steering under acceleration. any thoughts?
I just found this site... LOVE IT. So, I have a ton of catching up to see where you've been and where you're at... not being critical, but the shocks seem awfully sensitive to the throttle response - very bouncy. I will need to learn how to weld and then I can REALLY catch-up. GREAT JOB!
+isitmondayet Thanks , I found out the wheels where dragging so when ever I let off the throttle it was like hitting the brakes causing it to dive down. Still more work I hope to get a video out soon.
Hey man. You need to use a Borg Warner T-20 transmission from an old Maxx IV 6x6 amphibious vehicle. Chain drive from a side shaft engine. Chains driving the tracks. They are normally set up for skid steer, but you can modify them to make a true 'zero turn' machine. Just my .02.
Very original but the reason why your machine slips is pretty much the same as bald tyres. Your caterpillars needs threads of sorts to propel it forwards &/ backwards. Think of it as an elongated tire. All your caterpillar will do is simply reduce ground pressure &/ increase what they call flotation but you'll still need something to claw into soft grounds (threads). I hope you'll come up wit something as I am sure all your followers would like you to succeed. Best of luck & kind regards.
i have watched all your videos---and i love everything that you have done----and i am sure you have noticed that every problem you have encountered is related to your final drive (belts)----even the smallest minibike --uses a belt up at the motor (like yours might have) and then geared down and the closer to the final drive the heavier the chain needs to be----even a bicycle chain that is (gear linked) will bust with any tension at all--i think my old 3hp mini bike had a 44 chain for final drive and i kept busting that-and that is powering only one little wheel---your idea is perfect---just gotta get it up before any gear reduction----an argo 6 wheel drive uses a double 550 chain and sprockets (one double chain on each side) and a belt drive up at the motor------i think you might be asking too much out of belts to be the final drive ---i think someplace i have a blown up drawing of the original "struk mini dozer"(belt driven) that shows exactly what i am trying to say---let me know if you are interested in seeing that -and i will dig to see if i can find it--lol== keep up the good work
Nicolas Delanneau If you check out my video"tracked tension wheels part 7 " You will see I have a way to tighten the tracks if they start to loosen. Thanks for the comment.
Very cool man, and overall a job well done. I hope that you don't mind a little constructive criticism. Please fabricate some type of steel guard/fenders in between your legs and that track. Anything dude, if that track comes lose, breaks etc, it's definitely possible that you might not have a good time that day. I wish you the best of luck and again, well done man.
Small car differential (front alxe) has flanges for cv shaves would work good. And still can steer with each brake. Also the older zero turn mower had friction cone drives not hydraulic. Might be a possibility
yes, please install some guards over those tracks to protect your body in case a track breaks. those tracks have alot of inertia at high speed as they travel around the wheel. watch the ski lift out of control in a foreign country (or whatever its called) video to see how much inertia a ski lift chair has when it is going too fast around the bottom lift. its pretty horrific. (or just limit your speed)
have you thought of making a sealed box for your drive train to keep mud and debris out? therefore it has maximum friction all the time? what about a chain drive with slipper clutch on the spur gear to allow for some slippage under tractor braking?
use chains instead of belts and use an open differential in the center carrier. will function just like the setup you are using but with absolutely no slip and probably a lot less nose dive whenever you apply the brakes.
You need rubber treads. Those metal ones will give you little traction, just lots of surface area and they are noisy and rough. Same with the wheels, use regular rubber wheels. Most treads that lift like that have the drive wheels (and suspension) on the two large wheels on the ground and have a third tensioner wheel on top. You might try covers over the belts to keep water out, but really a centrifugal clutch on both sides will work better and wear better.
I'd have gone and gotten two cheap harbor freight motors and mounted one for each track. Then did some quick and cheap mods to increase the rpm and power. Both motors would use 420 chain to drive them tracks and big centrifugal clutches. Probably run a 6:1 ratio on the chain from motor to track.
your belt will work, just ENCASE the whole thing in a plastic shell/water proof type deal, i rode a quad that had a belt drive with a plastic cover enclosing the belt
The belts problem, I could only suggest easiest is a Bike chain and sprockets, it then should only be a case of swapping the bits over without any big mods. (but you've probable already done it by now :)
I had the same problem with belt slipping on a off road go kart in the mud being driven using belts because I was using a modified lawn mower transmission use the cables to pull the belt tensioners tight instead of to release it and depending on the springs you may have to find heavier cables or something else but it will allow the belt to grip and not slip
DoctorSherwood I think I have figured out the main problems I am having. First one is the carriage wheel bearings are failing and causing allot of drag and the second is I need larger pulleys. The pulleys I am using are just to small. I think you are right building a shroud over the pulleys keeping them dry will help allot. Thanks for the comment.
u should take bike tires and cut them to the right length of the width of the track and screw them to all of the links on the tracks for more grip and to be quieter
with Davey belts you don't cut the v belts all the way through that gives it more spring so it slips when you want it and tightens all the way when its under tension.2 inch rings welded to your your idler rims would help keep your track guiding straight at speed ripsaw had that issue at first and the rings helped fix it.but its agood job and looks like a fun project.
Or just go hydraulic.2 Valves 2 motors 1 engine 1 pump. you have plenty of room for all that and will link up to you existing setup kinda easy. few move valves and pipe you can adjust your ride height and track shape. As small forklift weighs about 10 tonnes and can whip along at 10 mph, a bit of gearing and you will be flying along. Hint hint nudge nudge. There's all the parts you need. All the best
Hi from New Zealand Americans are just intelligent people. I am so envious of their engineer prowess. The other thing I have notice is that you have driven this track vehicle out of your home shed. Is your home shed like a fully stocked work shop???? I can watch this stuff for hours on end. keep it coming.
hey have you thought of using something along the line of an LSD diff fixed drive to both sides but applying brakes to one side will slow down one side as well as speed up the opposite side and with no brakes applied in theory should keep equal drive.
how does the suspension work to keep the track tight? im guessing the shocks push up on the rollers to maintain a level of tightness so the track don't collect or slip off. im planning for a future project on a nitro RC car using the shocks u can buy for 5-10 pounds a pair and about 5 sets in total, creating a light tank track which can bolt on the underside and still provide the power and more grip than wheels making it look cool as hell in the process!
a simple drive train differential should do the job if youre using your brakes to turn. and a horizontal rods welded just inside the long edge of each track and a tab sized piece of tire rubber on the 1/3 and 2/3 spot on the tire end just higher than the metal on each side would make huge difference on and off road.
Hi, thanks for a good and interesting film. Why not try Hydraulic drive? So you will not have trouble with the belt slipping. Sincerely Mojje from Sweden
get rid of the belt clutch. use a regular # 35 or #40 chain 13 tooth drive clutch, run the chain to about a 24 tooth gear on a jackshaft, at the other end of the jackshaft put a 15 tooth gear, run a chain to a 60 tooth on the final drive. I did that on a dingo go kart to eliminate the belt drive. that should solve your problem. then you can work with your gearing from there to adjust for speed or torque.
You should do it the other way. You gear down wifh chain and sprocket and this high torque transmitting with a small pulleys. Swap it. make chain/sprockets as final drive and puleys will have to transmit much less torque...
Cover the carcass with something: plywood, plastic, metal sheets, etc, then go for a dirty ride. Or any serious ride for that matter. If you don't you'll end up with dirty, potentially rusty, parts.
Have you tried Motorcycle chains and sprockets that could bolt in place of the pulleys? a chain broke to proper length with the tension-er should cure the slip problem. motorcycle chain has better strength than bicycle chain. Don't want chains popping in a mud hole. just a thought good luck . I like the build pretty cool.
+Eugene Willsey I actually tried sprockets direct from the drive axle to the drive wheels just to say I did it. I could not steer it!! The trick is one side has to be able to slip so as to be able to steer. I think I have the solution I just have to make time to put it together. Thanks for watching
Thanks, there are a lot of arm chair quarterbacks on TH-cam. I am pretty sure most of the people that gave me a thumbs down built a better one in Mine craft. LOL
i would get rid if the belts and use a small differrential like the ones used on the back of a subaru justy or from a side by side like a yamaha rhino. you can either make it a direct drive or a chain drive and you wont have a belt slipping problem any more.
You got it right, but you need to protect the transmition from outer conditions, you can also reinforce the belts with car seat belts folded in thirds in closed U shape, thus no need for cutting the belt. Inspiration here- /watch?v=BWHAfaC-pPg
Cool!! You got it going. But uh oh, pretty sensitive to water looks like. Now I'm worried a little with mine. I still want to run belts on mine though. Plans on enclosing that area well understood, lol. I finished my tracks up over the weekend, and while I was doing that, I made the brake rotors and hubs for the rotors. There 2 pieces. Rotors are about 7 1/2 inches should be big enough. Going to have to cut a slot in the framing to fit them in, but it will work out to my advantage with the frame work though. Still have to bolt the 2nd track together. It started to rain right when the last pieces were drying from painting. You gonna play with yours a little before you tear it apart?
***** I think pulleys will work its just you need pulleys about 8" or bigger to get the surface area you need for good traction. When I built the back part of my tank I needed to have about 6" more space between the engine and the drive wheels it would take allot of work to change mine so I am going to have to figure something else out. It was fun driving it some before it started slipping. I have already torn it apart and started working on a different idea. Looking forward to a new video from you on your progress.
Aceman307 Had a couple ideas. We get this problem in the shop every once in a while on our high output alternators, the pulleys would get a glaze on the surface where the belts ride on the sides which would make them slip, sand the groove to roughen it up for a little more grip. Or the V in the pulley doesn't match the belt, should be 15 degrees for both. Or maybe the belt is bottoming out in pulley but I didn't notice that in the vid. Belt needs to wedge itself into the sides evenly without bottoming out to work right. I keep thinking about it and I keep thinking that it should work. Or maybe switch to automotive belts. Just brainstorming, hope it helps. I would build these gocarts way back when,, and I would always use automotive belts for the drive to the wheel and never had a problem with slipage. I would have a 1 1/2 inch pulley on the motor and a 6 inch pulley on the wheel and the problem I always had was the belt would grab too much and stall the motor. There's an idea. You would loose top speed but make the engine drive pulley smaller and the track sprocket pulley bigger. Still will take up same amount of space too.
***** You could be right about the belt bottoming out especially since I have those nuts on the bottom side. I ground the nuts at an angle I dont think they are hitting. The biggest difference between having belts drive the go cart is you can have the pulleys tight all the time with the tracks they have to slip and then grab . I think the belts could work just like I said before bigger pulleys.
It you could have some kind of really good Rubber which could damp the noise and give you a better ride that would be awsome wouldnt it!? I dont know I just enjoyed the Video Brother, GOOD LUCK :)
yup this is the one that showed me you haden't made the drive pully into a sprocket! (and that is why I thought the drive pully on the outside was slipping my friend, and not the engine side of the project)
+Lar Mayotte I cant make the connection between the engine and the drive wheels with chains and sprockets because it wont allow me to steer. I have changed the size of pulleys and will be making a cover for the belts I think this should help with the problem. Thanks for the comments
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I think you are doing an awesome job sir. I don’t know when these videos were made, but I have seen a video where a guy built a differential that was a chain drive. It was a single team that went to the differential, and it look like it worked great.
I have to admit that I was quite skeptical after watching earlier videos, as some of your solutions seemed to be unsound to me.
But it works!
Nice.
Thats a great job. Just use chains or gears. You did an excellent job constructing this. Keep on building.
I had this same issue with a 41.5cc Cobra Scooter ~ the big sales gimmick was that it was a smoother drivetrain due to the use of belts. Hit one puddle and it's all over.
I ended up converting it to a #35 chain.
Ive seen alot of russian home made tracked atv videos and the things they seem to have in common are that they use convaier belt straps with bars or cleats to hold them apart and align them on the drive wheels. and second they all seem to use tires on the drive wheels.with the rubber against the metal. I think using the air pressurized tires they can increase the tension on the belts granting more bite. and because the convaier belts dont really stretch much and if they do they have elastic qualities allow them to bounce back. many also have the drive wheels down low and touching the ground so even if the belt slips a bit they have power to ground. as a way to use your existing hardwere I would lay down a pair of straps on the outer edges of your cleats and swap out one of your drive wheels per side with an air pressurized tire or something adjustable for tension. you may need to add taller guides on the cleats to accommodate the tension tire. optionally when adding the straps to the cleats it would be a good time to add rubber, wood, or HD plastic blocks to give you more bite in soft ground.
Wow neat rig, you have invested a lot of time in this project, your right a wet belt just won't cut it for a final drive, your going to need roller chain. I've built a lot of stuff and when you get that kinda torque you need positive drive.
i built a similar unit years ago with snowmobile tracks that worked good , I used an old lawmower hydrostatic transmission , those used on zero turn lawmowers , go to your local scrap yard youl probably find one there.
you need a tensioner on the tracks to keep them taught when the shocks are compressed
Interesting, I suppose its safe to say with all that noise it won't be used to sneak up on anything during hunting season. :)
If your still tooling with you track machine?
1) add some cleats to the tread
2) track tensioner
3) tail weight can help the tipping.
Been wanting to do a project like this for a long time. Planning on making one but more like a miniature tank. You might consider using the front suspension off a classic VW Beetle. That is a ready made torsion suspension setup. Less fabrication and probably more heavy duty that what you have there.
Nice! The one thing I would recommend is installing a guard for your legs. If you hit a bump or the vehicle lurches your leg could be thrust against those treads... basically cutting you like a saw blade. Just my two-cents worth. Great job though!
see how tracks and drive wheels interface with each other "ripsaw mini" is your best example my friend.
I see others have mentioned what was my first thought, adding a drive differential from a small car. Looking around you might find one for free, or close to it. After that, it looks as though you would benefit from using chain sprockets for your drive links instead of belts. Bit more work, but much stronger drive mechanism.
I am by no means an engineer, but perhaps a differential from a small car would work better? It's sturdy, hermetic, and above all, rigid - no slipping at all. You could also still steer with the brakes, as all the power would be directed to the side which gives less resistance. Is that a sound idea?
+Andrew Crews That could work, but when locsked you would not be able to steer at all, so the lock would function only as a last-resort measure to unstuck a slipping vehicle. I think that applying braking force on the slipping track would be enough in most cases.
i had this exact idea, open differential and use left side and right side brakes for steering. my opinion is that it would work. i would love to hear ideas of why it wouldnt so that i dont waste alot of time building, just for it to fail. however, my arguement to Andrew Crews would be that on a wheeled vehicle, you only really get "torque steer" on front wheel drive vehicles and this is due to torque (from the engine) being applied outside (or inside) of the steering knuckle centerline. obviously both sides are the same, so it doesnt really make sense to me why they dont simply cancel each other out. even so, i think that if you welded the steering wheel straight, there wouldnt be a noticeable steering under acceleration. any thoughts?
The Borg Warner T20 is a great steering transmission for small skid steer vehicles.
I just found this site... LOVE IT. So, I have a ton of catching up to see where you've been and where you're at... not being critical, but the shocks seem awfully sensitive to the throttle response - very bouncy. I will need to learn how to weld and then I can REALLY catch-up. GREAT JOB!
+isitmondayet Thanks , I found out the wheels where dragging so when ever I let off the throttle it was like hitting the brakes causing it to dive down. Still more work I hope to get a video out soon.
Hey man. You need to use a Borg Warner T-20 transmission from an old Maxx IV 6x6 amphibious vehicle. Chain drive from a side shaft engine. Chains driving the tracks. They are normally set up for skid steer, but you can modify them to make a true 'zero turn' machine. Just my .02.
Хороший вездеход получился, на снегу наверное будет таким же проворным.
Спасибо за просмотр
Интересный аппарат)
Thank you very much for the video. . The information has been very helpful. ..All the best
+Saif Ullah Thanks for watching.
You're learning dude.
Keep it up. Looking forward to more.
Hey, just wanted to say that you have one awesome build there, really cool! Cant wait to see you perfect it!
+supercommando89 Thanks
A lot like the PasseParTout from the 70s. Keep at it.
Very nice project. I think if you add a sheet metal cover around the pulley sections then you could at least make it splash proof. Best of luck!
Nice job, Kudos! You should build a factory that makes tracked Atv's once you have perfected the design.
Very original but the reason why your machine slips is pretty much the same as bald tyres. Your caterpillars needs threads of sorts to propel it forwards &/ backwards. Think of it as an elongated tire. All your caterpillar will do is simply reduce ground pressure &/ increase what they call flotation but you'll still need something to claw into soft grounds (threads). I hope you'll come up wit something as I am sure all your followers would like you to succeed. Best of luck & kind regards.
Bring it to my shop and lets make it ELECTRIC !!! totally self sustaining.. set it up with Solar panels to charge.. Keep up the great work..
where is your shop I want to make an electric vehicle
interesting project, good luck working the kinks out :)
Dude that thing is Awesome!!! MOre More!!!
+HighVoltsEntertainment Thanks more to come.
wow - good luck with refining your design.
+Johnny Pea Thanks
i have watched all your videos---and i love everything that you have done----and i am sure you have noticed that every problem you have encountered is related to your final drive (belts)----even the smallest minibike --uses a belt up at the motor (like yours might have) and then geared down and the closer to the final drive the heavier the chain needs to be----even a bicycle chain that is (gear linked) will bust with any tension at all--i think my old 3hp mini bike had a 44 chain for final drive and i kept busting that-and that is powering only one little wheel---your idea is perfect---just gotta get it up before any gear reduction----an argo 6 wheel drive uses a double 550 chain and sprockets (one double chain on each side) and a belt drive up at the motor------i think you might be asking too much out of belts to be the final drive ---i think someplace i have a blown up drawing of the original "struk mini dozer"(belt driven) that shows exactly what i am trying to say---let me know if you are interested in seeing that -and i will dig to see if i can find it--lol== keep up the good work
Thanks for the comment.
I like the suspension setup
Woah! This is such a cool vehicle!
Hi Thanks, Not as cool as the vehicles you have.😃
@@Aceman307 Well...I think that's debatable, because umm...TANK treads!!! I am totally showing this to J.
About the tracks, you should add a sort of tightener to compensate when the suspensions loosen them like for timing belts in cars
Nicolas Delanneau If you check out my video"tracked tension wheels part 7 " You will see I have a way to tighten the tracks if they start to loosen. Thanks for the comment.
Very cool man, and overall a job well done. I hope that you don't mind a little constructive criticism. Please fabricate some type of steel guard/fenders in between your legs and that track. Anything dude, if that track comes lose, breaks etc, it's definitely possible that you might not have a good time that day. I wish you the best of luck and again, well done man.
Hydraulics, pumps drive motors to drive tracks? Might a bit costly?..Good video, glad to see it running, good luck ...............................Ken
+Kennethe Miller Thanks for the comment. I am trying to put this together with things most people can find at the hardware store.
very cool. fun to watch!
Small car differential (front alxe) has flanges for cv shaves would work good. And still can steer with each brake. Also the older zero turn mower had friction cone drives not hydraulic. Might be a possibility
I bet the neighbours love that sound
You finally did;it
Good work
yes, please install some guards over those tracks to protect your body in case a track breaks. those tracks have alot of inertia at high speed as they travel around the wheel. watch the ski lift out of control in a foreign country (or whatever its called) video to see how much inertia a ski lift chair has when it is going too fast around the bottom lift. its pretty horrific. (or just limit your speed)
have you thought of making a sealed box for your drive train to keep mud and debris out? therefore it has maximum friction all the time? what about a chain drive with slipper clutch on the spur gear to allow for some slippage under tractor braking?
use chains instead of belts and use an open differential in the center carrier. will function just like the setup you are using but with absolutely no slip and probably a lot less nose dive whenever you apply the brakes.
You need rubber treads. Those metal ones will give you little traction, just lots of surface area and they are noisy and rough. Same with the wheels, use regular rubber wheels. Most treads that lift like that have the drive wheels (and suspension) on the two large wheels on the ground and have a third tensioner wheel on top. You might try covers over the belts to keep water out, but really a centrifugal clutch on both sides will work better and wear better.
I'd have gone and gotten two cheap harbor freight motors and mounted one for each track. Then did some quick and cheap mods to increase the rpm and power. Both motors would use 420 chain to drive them tracks and big centrifugal clutches. Probably run a 6:1 ratio on the chain from motor to track.
dude that is amazing. i could never do something like that unless i went to like, engineering school or something.
+Elijah Greenberg Thanks
your belt will work, just ENCASE the whole thing in a plastic shell/water proof type deal, i rode a quad that had a belt drive with a plastic cover enclosing the belt
great video, well done!
Thanks for watching.
I would love to see more videos from you.
You could do a setup that uses the differential and go the way of break steering.
great job bro
The belts problem, I could only suggest easiest is a Bike chain and sprockets, it then should only be a case of swapping the bits over without any big mods.
(but you've probable already done it by now :)
I had the same problem with belt slipping on a off road go kart in the mud being driven using belts because I was using a modified lawn mower transmission use the cables to pull the belt tensioners tight instead of to release it and depending on the springs you may have to find heavier cables or something else but it will allow the belt to grip and not slip
+Jeffrey Murdock I am going to use larger pulleys and make a cover for the belts. I think this should help. Thanks for watching
Treads were offbalance flapping around but sick machine you built ;D
Keep going with this and never stop!
Maybe you could isolate the belts with a fluid seal to make sure water would not reach them? great videos by the way
DoctorSherwood I think I have figured out the main problems I am having. First one is the carriage wheel bearings are failing and causing allot of drag and the second is I need larger pulleys. The pulleys I am using are just to small. I think you are right building a shroud over the pulleys keeping them dry will help allot. Thanks for the comment.
u should take bike tires and cut them to the right length of the width of the track and screw them to all of the links on the tracks for more grip and to be quieter
Call it the skeletal horse bc of the sound xD amazing build btw
+TackStash779 Thanks
with Davey belts you don't cut the v belts all the way through that gives it more spring so it slips when you want it and tightens all the way when its under tension.2 inch rings welded to your your idler rims would help keep your track guiding straight at speed ripsaw had that issue at first and the rings helped fix it.but its agood job and looks like a fun project.
+cartmanrlsusall Thanks for the tip. I will try that when I make my new belts.
+Aceman307 hey bud give any thought to a splash shield? just put a tin box around the belt system simple it will work until you submerge the gear box
+VK70001.P Yes I think thats a good idea, I will put one around the new pulleys and belts.
well done,very nice..
Or just go hydraulic.2 Valves 2 motors 1 engine 1 pump. you have plenty of room for all that and will link up to you existing setup kinda easy. few move valves and pipe you can adjust your ride height and track shape.
As small forklift weighs about 10 tonnes and can whip along at 10 mph, a bit of gearing and you will be flying along. Hint hint nudge nudge. There's all the parts you need.
All the best
Hi from New Zealand
Americans are just intelligent people. I am so envious of their engineer prowess. The other thing I have
notice is that you have driven this track vehicle out of your home shed. Is your home shed like a fully stocked
work shop???? I can watch this stuff for hours on end. keep it coming.
Thanks for watching . You can never have to many tools. I use mostly electric hand tools . I am working on a new shop.
This invention is genial.
I also wonder what is this man planning? Is he going to use it for any evil plan...? The looks make think of the Mad Max...
No evil plans just a fun build. Please check out my latest video on my channel for some new ideas. Thanks for watching
Looks really cool and awe inspiring, have you thought about doing a hydro drive set-up?
GOOD!!МОЛОДЕЦ!!ШИКАРНО ПРОСТО!!ДАЙ БОГ ТЕБЕ ЗДОРОВЬЯ!"!
благодаря
Use double pulleys / belts and get the blue or red belts designed for clutch use.
hey have you thought of using something along the line of an LSD diff fixed drive to both sides but applying brakes to one side will slow down one side as well as speed up the opposite side and with no brakes applied in theory should keep equal drive.
how does the suspension work to keep the track tight? im guessing the shocks push up on the rollers to maintain a level of tightness so the track don't collect or slip off. im planning for a future project on a nitro RC car using the shocks u can buy for 5-10 pounds a pair and about 5 sets in total, creating a light tank track which can bolt on the underside and still provide the power and more grip than wheels making it look cool as hell in the process!
Yes the shocks keep tension on the tracks.
Great Stuff man! Love it! Awesome!
a simple drive train differential should do the job if youre using your brakes to turn.
and a horizontal rods welded just inside the long edge of each track and a tab sized piece of tire rubber on the 1/3 and 2/3 spot on the tire end just higher than the metal on each side would make huge difference on and off road.
Your neighbors must be happy from it sound!!
Have you considered a basket clutching system?
Well done sir!!
Hi, thanks for a good and interesting film.
Why not try Hydraulic drive?
So you will not have trouble with the belt slipping.
Sincerely Mojje from Sweden
nice project try using a chain setup instead of the belts weld some nice strong sprockets on there / no slip
get rid of the belt clutch. use a regular # 35 or #40 chain 13 tooth drive clutch, run the chain to about a 24 tooth gear on a jackshaft, at the other end of the jackshaft put a 15 tooth gear, run a chain to a 60 tooth on the final drive. I did that on a dingo go kart to eliminate the belt drive. that should solve your problem. then you can work with your gearing from there to adjust for speed or torque.
I think you are really close to get it!!! Maybe use belt that have teeth on them? Your design is cool.
+Scott Townes Yep your right. Thats what makes it tricky.
+Scott Townes I think that would be a good idea, using two motors of any kind help with the steering problem.
You should do it the other way. You gear down wifh chain and sprocket and this high torque transmitting with a small pulleys. Swap it. make chain/sprockets as final drive and puleys will have to transmit much less torque...
also two pot bytle liquid rubber could be moulded onto each track segment. silent tracks?
Cover the carcass with something: plywood, plastic, metal sheets, etc, then go for a dirty ride. Or any serious ride for that matter. If you don't you'll end up with dirty, potentially rusty, parts.
you should make some welds on the treds for more traction
I like it, good job
+Matt Kramer Thanks, still working on it.
Have you tried Motorcycle chains and sprockets that could bolt in place of the pulleys? a chain broke to proper length with the tension-er should cure the slip problem. motorcycle chain has better strength than bicycle chain. Don't want chains popping in a mud hole. just a thought good luck . I like the build pretty cool.
+Eugene Willsey I actually tried sprockets direct from the drive axle to the drive wheels just to say I did it. I could not steer it!! The trick is one side has to be able to slip so as to be able to steer. I think I have the solution I just have to make time to put it together. Thanks for watching
maybe a zero turn mower drive line ?
Great work, I cannot imagine why you get down votes.
Thanks, there are a lot of arm chair quarterbacks on TH-cam. I am pretty sure most of the people that gave me a thumbs down built a better one in Mine craft. LOL
If Orville and Wilber had just had the benefit of TH-cam advisors, the damned airplane would still be in R & D...................LOL!!!
i would get rid if the belts and use a small differrential like the ones used on the back of a subaru justy or from a side by side like a yamaha rhino. you can either make it a direct drive or a chain drive and you wont have a belt slipping problem any more.
Hmm...I think it would be good to use something like a snow blower transmission with dual clutches.
i want this to my daily tasks
good job
check out the T20 trans used in the ATTEX. see 6X6 world.
it would be the best trans available. and there are alot out there pretty cheep .
try to use a differential (of a car) and this brakes. When you brake one tracker the other still running.
Wow! That's Impressive!
You got it right, but you need to protect the transmition from outer conditions, you can also reinforce the belts with car seat belts folded in thirds in closed U shape, thus no need for cutting the belt. Inspiration here- /watch?v=BWHAfaC-pPg
man, this is so cool
Thanks
using the power to steer would require a clutch to each side of the drive axle, right?
Anymore updates :)? Really loving this build of yours! (Makes me wanna do the same thing but wifey says no >_>)
+produKtNZ I have been working on it, just been real busy lately. I will try and get another update out soon. Thanks for watching.
superb!
Cool!! You got it going. But uh oh, pretty sensitive to water looks like. Now I'm worried a little with mine. I still want to run belts on mine though. Plans on enclosing that area well understood, lol.
I finished my tracks up over the weekend, and while I was doing that, I made the brake rotors and hubs for the rotors. There 2 pieces. Rotors are about 7 1/2 inches should be big enough. Going to have to cut a slot in the framing to fit them in, but it will work out to my advantage with the frame work though. Still have to bolt the 2nd track together. It started to rain right when the last pieces were drying from painting.
You gonna play with yours a little before you tear it apart?
***** I think pulleys will work its just you need pulleys about 8" or bigger to get the surface area you need for good traction. When I built the back part of my tank I needed to have about 6" more space between the engine and the drive wheels it would take allot of work to change mine so I am going to have to figure something else out. It was fun driving it some before it started slipping. I have already torn it apart and started working on a different idea. Looking forward to a new video from you on your progress.
Aceman307 Had a couple ideas. We get this problem in the shop every once in a while on our high output alternators, the pulleys would get a glaze on the surface where the belts ride on the sides which would make them slip, sand the groove to roughen it up for a little more grip. Or the V in the pulley doesn't match the belt, should be 15 degrees for both. Or maybe the belt is bottoming out in pulley but I didn't notice that in the vid. Belt needs to wedge itself into the sides evenly without bottoming out to work right. I keep thinking about it and I keep thinking that it should work. Or maybe switch to automotive belts. Just brainstorming, hope it helps. I would build these gocarts way back when,, and I would always use automotive belts for the drive to the wheel and never had a problem with slipage. I would have a 1 1/2 inch pulley on the motor and a 6 inch pulley on the wheel and the problem I always had was the belt would grab too much and stall the motor. There's an idea. You would loose top speed but make the engine drive pulley smaller and the track sprocket pulley bigger. Still will take up same amount of space too.
***** You could be right about the belt bottoming out especially since I have those nuts on the bottom side. I ground the nuts at an angle I dont think they are hitting. The biggest difference between having belts drive the go cart is you can have the pulleys tight all the time with the tracks they have to slip and then grab . I think the belts could work just like I said before bigger pulleys.
Time will tell, always love a challenge, lol.
It you could have some kind of really good Rubber which could damp the noise and give you a better ride that would be awsome wouldnt it!? I dont know I just enjoyed the Video Brother, GOOD LUCK :)
Maybe try clutch-and-brake steering?
yup this is the one that showed me you haden't made the drive pully into a sprocket! (and that is why I thought the drive pully on the outside was slipping my friend, and not the engine side of the project)
+Lar Mayotte I cant make the connection between the engine and the drive wheels with chains and sprockets because it wont allow me to steer. I have changed the size of pulleys and will be making a cover for the belts I think this should help with the problem. Thanks for the comments
+Aceman307 Put an ATV differential in it