The personification of working smarter and not harder. I can just see in my minds eye, the young 20-something, eager beaver buck metal fabricator beating the snot outta the sheet metal and working 5’xs as hard to accomplish what this man does with elegant precision..
Hello Al: Thanks. Since the early 60's I would take the time to make a tool that was correct for the job. Not only did it make the job go quicker but it was a tool that I had for the rest of my life. Tools are everything. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hi Trev: Almost all of my videos have something different in them. I learned my craft in the 60's and 70's when you had to make most of your own tools. The guys I learned from learned in the 40's. When watching my videos you will see stuff done that resulted from years of making scrap. Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere
Jere - you did a great job on making that deceptively difficult part from one piece of metal! I haven't worked much with 1100, and I'm surprised at how much more malleable it is than 3003. I'll be eager to start on my portion of the job whenever you can get the hammerform to me!
Ron - It was quite a challenge with the 3003. Knowing how often it work hardens under the air hammer I may give it another go. Will call you this afternoon to see if you want to use the work station. Jere
And I can't wait to see your approach to the same. Two masters classes for sure! Thanks again for the help you offered on Easter Morning to help me to prevent my shrinker stretcher from leave it's Mark in more than a few unfavorable ways! Emery cloth really is something!
Machinist checking in. If you guys haven't tried out 3104 aluminum you may want to. It is an excellent alloy for forming as it resists work hardening and can be drawn thin pretty reliably. I believe you want condition H19
@@SuperAWaC what is condition “H19?” I’m kind of a new hobby machinist so all this info is new to me. Is there a book or some other good source where you can look up the specs of different metals? Ps. Sorry if those are dumb questions... lol. I’m learning.
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 thanks Jere I am really in joying your videos and I am looking forward to seeing you oxy weld your parts I haven’t done oxy welding for some time now I love Tig welding everything I can these days. 👍🇦🇺🧑🏭
I came here from @Ron Covells channel and commented the following: We are all fortunate we have such a platform to learn from the best journeymen in their respective trades. It is a great way to hand down the knowledge to many apprentices, hobbiests, and makers. Thank you for sharing. When you (Ron Covell) presented the first article from one piece I thought "why in the world would you make the other half with three pieces?". When you are an expert and experienced, it is yet another way to tackle the same problem.
Jere, This has been so inspiring to watch and learn aspects of a completely new craft. Your knowledge about materials and craftsmanship is incredible. The subtleties of bending and tucking metal incorporating the hammer forms and shop made bespoke tools was wonderful to observe. Thoroughly looking forward seeing the remaining processes and the comparison with Ron’s alternative approach. Thank you so much for this highly informative creative post. SUPERB content!!! Jeff (UK stone masonry student)
Hello Jeff: Ron and I thought that making the same part in two different ways would get the most information out. I too am pleased with the way this series has been received. Thanks for watching and your kind comment. Please subscribe. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 I subscribed to both your channels some time ago and am thoroughly absorbed by the variety of incredible techniques demonstrated and materials used in each of the posts I have watched so far. I’m working my way progressively through your previous uploads and have recommended both your YT sites to fellow students and staff tutors. Passing on skills in any trade is so important -being able to actually watch master craftsman apply their knowledge and skill in this medium is a wonderful source of information in itself and inspirational too. Thank you once again for sharing such well presented and thoroughly interesting content!!
Hello John: It has taken many years to learn how to read the material and see where the next hammer blow should be placed. Look at my video "Turning a 1" flange". You will see how to place a tuck and how to control it as it is worked out. Thanks for watching. Jere
I used to hand form aluminum duct work over KIRKSITE forms, for the Douglas DC series air plains for the Air conditioning system, 16 Gauge 3003 aluminum, the main trick I found was to roll the edges of the high stress areas early so the stress doesn't split the edges. as you curve and roll the panel. Then you can trim off the rolled edges after. I used hardwood axe handles sanded and shaped to act as slappers and hammers. 😃😃 Great Video THANKS
Yes. Figuring out the best and most efficient way to approach a project is sometimes the key to success. I take the time to make tools that supports the task at hand. Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere
Hello Zeke: I have worked mainly with 1100 and very little with 3003. Mainly using 3003 for Cobra doors and front fenders where there is not nearly the amount of movement required. This exercise has taught me a lot about working 3003. Thanks. Jere
I agree with Zeke. This difference in material behavior is surprising. You mentioned manganese being present in the 3003. I assume that reduces its ductility? The understanding of the metallurgy is really impressive.
Hi Jeff: I watched that part several times myself. I couldn't see how the material moved until I watched the video. I was too busy watching where the hammer was. Thanks for your comment. Jere
Very interesting, and so many details. 😀 I was very impressed on how the rivet gun performs with your machined tips. Cool idea on the post clamp adapter for the vice. This process really highlighted how complicated the part is to form. Thanks for sharing 👍👍😎👍👍
Hi ya Joel: I was quite an eye opener for me to see the difference between 3003 and 1100. If you make one of the tool holders for your vise then all the tools you make will be held steady when using them no matter what angle you do your work in. Thanks for the coffee also. Jere
Great video Jere, being uninitiated to sheet metal work, I found it very informing. I like the use of the air tool with the nylon bumpers, I think i'll make a set od them. Thanks for he inspiration, cheers!
Hello Howder: I have a tendency to make my own tools. It is nice to use a tool that works for the job intended instead of trying to make something work. Thanks for watching and be sure to subscribe. Jere
I've had that vise since 1982. One piece is broken off the sliding portion and I will repair it one day. The vise holder is one of the best tools ever. Jere
Hi Ran. I will be welding the odd shape this afternoon and finishing the welds. I hope to have the video up by the end of the week. It took all day yesterday to get the truck unloaded and get the shop back into working shape. Jere
@@RRINTHESHOP Would you like me to send you a list of the ratios I have or do you have an idea of the ratio you require? You can call my cell 1-707-972-0677.
Jere, excellent job, that tucking tool is something I don't have and never thought I'd need since I'm only working with thin/soft copper but after watching how you massaged the curve with the aid of those tucking tools, I think they are necessary and very handy to have in my shop, thank you for teaching us how it's done. Ken.
Hello Ken: Yes. Tucking tools are a handy bit of kit. These are quite handy when making a bowl shape in copper. I have two videos on how to make tucking forks. one for the one held in the vise and one for the hand held. Go to my channel and click on "videos" you will find both there. Thanks for watching and your comment. And don't forget to subscribe. Jere
Hello Patrick: It's neat to learn new stuff. Spend a little time making a healthy pile of scrap. Making a mistake will teach you moor than watching someone else doing it right. The only difference between you and me is that my pile of scrap is bigger than yours. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hello Panda: That was the reason for Ron and I doing this project. Too often you hear "no you have to do it my way". If you learn from many, you can make it in the way that suites you. Thanks for the kind words. Jere
Thanks for another fine installment in this series. I love these collaborations. And I appreciate you included the making of the former heads and buck holder. Also the first time I’ve seen the tuck tool in use. I went back and checked that vid again. You have come long way since those early days Jere. Good job!
Hi Deena: I welded up the holes this morning and should get Ron my finished part and the hammer form early next week. It should be interesting to see Ron making the same part in a different way. Thanks for watching. Jere
Another great video. Lots of good info. I also enjoyed the part on making the plastic hammer heads. I would have loved to see you make that same part out of steel to see how much harder it would have been to to make compared to aluminum. Thanks for sharing with all of us. Dan
Love the two-camera angles with the picture-in-picture; it's the next best thing to 3D view. I'm impressed with your video editing and camera work; not many people have that skill set as well as the metalworking master level ability. I liked the details you provided about the regulator PSI, the alloy characteristics, the annealing demonstration, and showing how to make the polymer hammer bits. As if all that wasn't enough lol - I do actually have a suggestion to make your production even better. For this I just grabbed the first example video link - so not sure if this is the absolute best tutorial on the topic but it will be a start and it is only four minutes long. The video demonstrates an automated software tool to digitally remove all the spaces (just from spoken parts of your audio). It is commonly used on professional radio and tv broadcasting - when its done right the listener doesn't even know it; and no information is lost. Audacity is freeware. Here ya go: "How to Trim Away Dead Space Silence from Audio - Audacity Tutorial" th-cam.com/video/RnIiWi3rCuM/w-d-xo.html
Hello Police Dog: I'm glad you gained some good info from this video, that is my intent to share with you guys. Thanks for the link. I spend a bit of time working on the dead spaces in my video's and try to remove dead spaces so the movement in the video does not make it too jerky from one portion to the next. People may stop watching if I get too pro in my editing. Thanks. Jere
Did anyone else cringe when Jere reached in to grab the hammer head material and then grabbed the shavings off from the cut off wheel? Love the fact you said you are bullheadef and didn’t want to build this piece out of 3 pieces👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Mike: The saw is only turning at 54 rpm. Even a newly sharpened saw will not cut you. They are quite expensive but they leave little bur and don't smell like an abrasive saw. As you may have noticed, I am not ashamed to show my mistakes if it will help others not make them. Thanks for the great feed back. I love it. Jere
I was excited to see part three. I have done a lot of flow forming and always have formed into a female form so it was interesting to see someone do one on the out side. I generally use fully annealled 1100 since it offers the most stretch capability and it does form nicely. For doing those outside shrinks I have found that a concave "V" shaped tool works surprisingly well for unknown reasons. About 1/2 -5/8 wide at the open end of the V works for me. I just cut it on the band saw; not too fussy. Most of my forming tools for aluminum are made from HDPE which is a bit softer than the Delrin it looks like you use and I find it friendlier for the soft 1100.
Hello Edward: Are you saying to cut the "V" on a slant like the female portion of a thumb nail die or is the "V" cut the entire distance of the tool? Thanks for watching and thanks for the info. Always eager to learn. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 It's just a simple Vee across the end of the cylindrical tool. About 60* included angle maybe 3/4" on a side. I suspect that the angle is not too fussy. I free handed it on the bandsaw. I have picture, but, apparently, no way to put it here. Regards, Ed Taylor
Jere, I'd be very interested to know the thickness at the thick and thin spots compared with the original .065". I'm looking forward to seeing the differences in your process and Ron's.
Hello Mr. Specialty: I will try to give you both Ron's and my thickness measurements before I weld them together in the next video in this series. Good question. Thanks. Jere
thanks as always Jere, i really enjoy this series. it's covering a lot of areas that i need more experience in. by the way, where would one obtain a spherical head, post dolly like you have?. Cheers.
Hi Eddie: I hope you have gained something that you can use in the future. The ball can be found at an ornamental gate supplier. They are used to cap a square post. The one in the video is for capping a 4" square post. You have to remove the bottom portion of the casting. Thanks for watching. Jere
Hi Tom: I think it is a type of nylon. I picked it up at a surplus store some time ago. It worked well on the Jolly floor pans so I will continue to use it for other projects. Thanks for watching. Jere
Jere, I’m enjoying the videos, as I want to learn flow forming for an upcoming project. I’m a total beginner, and am wondering what type of aluminum to use, and if I need to anneal it. The 1100 seemed to flow a lot better for your part. Did you anneal it like the 3003, or is it soft enough in its natural state? Are these the two main choices of aluminum for this type of work? Thanks a bunch
Hi Jesse: I did not have to anneal the 1100 as it is 99% aluminum. The application and the amount of shape you put into the piece will determine what material you use. Sorry I cant give you a solid answer without knowing what it will be used for. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 I want to make foot wells in the floor pan of my airplane in order to have a more comfortable seating position. I want to drop the area where my feet rest on the floor about 2” lower than the existing floor. I envision two rectangular (or oval maybe) pans approximately 6” by 10” each. The existing floor material is .040 6061 T6, but the parts I make only need to be strong enough to take the abuse my feet will inflict as there are structural members nearby. I think a speed blister shape would be easier to form, but I would rather have a more rectangular shape if possible. Any advice on material for that sort of shape? Thanks
@@jessejenks5401 I have made many parts for race cars but am reluctant to make or give advice on airplanes as they are out of my range of knowledge. Jere
Hi Jere, As usual.. great tips and tricks. You said a "rational" person would make that in 3 pieces. You didn't do that. Later you said you were "bull-headed". I guess that does sound better than "irrational". ;) By the way.. I tried buying you a coffee again but I still get, "The merchant requires a US billing address for all purchases made using PayPal." Apparently, (according to PayPal help) you can "Make adjustments to your Block Payments settings in My Seller Settings." I have no idea if that is the case but maybe you could check that out. You might be missing out on a lot of coffee money! Joe
Hey there Joe: I seldom move into the realm of "rational". It seams so boring and predictable. Thanks for the heads up on the coffee. I think the setting are that way because if I sell something from my web sight it will not calculate the shipping charges for another country. I will give Pay Pal a call and see if there is a work around. Heaven knows I need your money. Thank as always. Jere
I mean not to be terse in me asking but are you ,Sir using steel or Aluminum? Mr. Covell uses Aluminum . I can't tell on your videos( you make it look easy).
Hello Bob: The first two were made with 3003 half hard aluminum and the second 2 were made with 1100 aluminum. They could be made of 20 or 22ga steel but it would be much harder on the hammer form. Thanks for the question. Jere
The personification of working smarter and not harder.
I can just see in my minds eye, the young 20-something, eager beaver buck metal fabricator beating the snot outta the sheet metal and working 5’xs as hard to accomplish what this man does with elegant precision..
Hello Al:
Thanks. Since the early 60's I would take the time to make a tool that was correct for the job. Not only did it make the job go quicker but it was a tool that I had for the rest of my life. Tools are everything.
Thanks for watching. Jere
After watching the start I thought this was going to be done another way, impressive stuff 👍
Hi Trev:
Almost all of my videos have something different in them. I learned my craft in the 60's and 70's when you had to make most of your own tools. The guys I learned from learned in the 40's. When watching my videos you will see stuff done that resulted from years of making scrap.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere
Jere - you did a great job on making that deceptively difficult part from one piece of metal! I haven't worked much with 1100, and I'm surprised at how much more malleable it is than 3003. I'll be eager to start on my portion of the job whenever you can get the hammerform to me!
Ron - It was quite a challenge with the 3003. Knowing how often it work hardens under the air hammer I may give it another go. Will call you this afternoon to see if you want to use the work station. Jere
And I can't wait to see your approach to the same. Two masters classes for sure!
Thanks again for the help you offered on Easter Morning to help me to prevent my shrinker stretcher from leave it's Mark in more than a few unfavorable ways!
Emery cloth really is something!
Machinist checking in. If you guys haven't tried out 3104 aluminum you may want to. It is an excellent alloy for forming as it resists work hardening and can be drawn thin pretty reliably. I believe you want condition H19
@@SuperAWaC what is condition “H19?”
I’m kind of a new hobby machinist so all this info is new to me. Is there a book or some other good source where you can look up the specs of different metals?
Ps. Sorry if those are dumb questions... lol. I’m learning.
@@mxcollin95 Look up "Understanding the Aluminum Temper Designation System" from NIST
Excellent work, Jere! I am ever grateful for the effort you and Ron put into this just for our benefit.
Hello Scott:
Thanks. We enjoy sharing what has taken years to learn. If you and others learn something, that makes us happy. Jere
As a Boilermaker I can really appreciate the work you blokes are putting into these parts well done Sir you really know your craft. 🇦🇺🧑🏭
Hello Darren:
I have the most respect foe boilermakers and millwrights.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 thanks Jere I am really in joying your videos and I am looking forward to seeing you oxy weld your parts I haven’t done oxy welding for some time now I love Tig welding everything I can these days. 👍🇦🇺🧑🏭
I came here from @Ron Covells channel and commented the following:
We are all fortunate we have such a platform to learn from the best journeymen in their respective trades. It is a great way to hand down the knowledge to many apprentices, hobbiests, and makers. Thank you for sharing.
When you (Ron Covell) presented the first article from one piece I thought "why in the world would you make the other half with three pieces?". When you are an expert and experienced, it is yet another way to tackle the same problem.
Hi True Gret:
It was our intention to show that there is more than one way to accomplish a common task.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 Well you met that objective with certainty. Thanks again!
Jere,
This has been so inspiring to watch and learn aspects of a completely new craft. Your knowledge about materials and craftsmanship is incredible. The subtleties of bending and tucking metal incorporating the hammer forms and shop made bespoke tools was wonderful to observe. Thoroughly looking forward seeing the remaining processes and the comparison with Ron’s alternative approach. Thank you so much for this highly informative creative post. SUPERB content!!! Jeff (UK stone masonry student)
Hello Jeff:
Ron and I thought that making the same part in two different ways would get the most information out. I too am pleased with the way this series has been received.
Thanks for watching and your kind comment. Please subscribe.
Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 I subscribed to both your channels some time ago and am thoroughly absorbed by the variety of incredible techniques demonstrated and materials used in each of the posts I have watched so far. I’m working my way progressively through your previous uploads and have recommended both your YT sites to fellow students and staff tutors. Passing on skills in any trade is so important -being able to actually watch master craftsman apply their knowledge and skill in this medium is a wonderful source of information in itself and inspirational too. Thank you once again for sharing such well presented and thoroughly interesting content!!
I never would have believed that you could remove those tucks without seeing it for myself. Great video - thanks for posting!
Hello John:
It has taken many years to learn how to read the material and see where the next hammer blow should be placed. Look at my video "Turning a 1" flange". You will see how to place a tuck and how to control it as it is worked out.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Great series! Enjoy watching the process and craftsmanship! Thank you, to you both!
Hi David.
This was a fun project for both of us. Making the same piece two different ways a good practice in shaping.
Jere
Great video! I really like the creativity used in how you went about forming the part as well as the design of the buck post holder! Very cool! 👍
Collin,
Look around in my other videos and you will see many tools and fixtures I have made that may be of use to you.
Jere
I used to hand form aluminum duct work over KIRKSITE forms, for the Douglas DC series air plains for the Air conditioning system, 16 Gauge 3003 aluminum, the main trick I found was to roll the edges of the high stress areas early so the stress doesn't split the edges. as you curve and roll the panel. Then you can trim off the rolled edges after. I used hardwood axe handles sanded and shaped to act as slappers and hammers. 😃😃
Great Video THANKS
Thanks for the input William.
Jere
Fabricating the tooling and fixtures is just as fascinating as fabricating the actual piece!
Yes. Figuring out the best and most efficient way to approach a project is sometimes the key to success. I take the time to make tools that supports the task at hand.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere
Even more so, in my humble opinion. Knowing the "why" behind the actual approach is so fundamental to understanding.
holy cow! I too had no idea how different 3003 and 1100 are.... I would have just struggled with the 3003.
Hello Zeke:
I have worked mainly with 1100 and very little with 3003. Mainly using 3003 for Cobra doors and front fenders where there is not nearly the amount of movement required. This exercise has taught me a lot about working 3003.
Thanks. Jere
I agree with Zeke. This difference in material behavior is surprising. You mentioned manganese being present in the 3003. I assume that reduces its ductility? The understanding of the metallurgy is really impressive.
that inside curve was beautiful to watch, it just flowed
Hi Jeff:
I watched that part several times myself. I couldn't see how the material moved until I watched the video. I was too busy watching where the hammer was.
Thanks for your comment. Jere
Very interesting, and so many details. 😀 I was very impressed on how the rivet gun performs with your machined tips. Cool idea on the post clamp adapter for the vice. This process really highlighted how complicated the part is to form. Thanks for sharing 👍👍😎👍👍
Hi ya Joel:
I was quite an eye opener for me to see the difference between 3003 and 1100.
If you make one of the tool holders for your vise then all the tools you make will be held steady when using them no matter what angle you do your work in.
Thanks for the coffee also. Jere
Great video Jere, being uninitiated to sheet metal work, I found it very informing. I like the use of the air tool with the nylon bumpers, I think i'll make a set od them. Thanks for he inspiration, cheers!
Hello Howder:
I have a tendency to make my own tools. It is nice to use a tool that works for the job intended instead of trying to make something work.
Thanks for watching and be sure to subscribe. Jere
Thanks Jere. Great info here.
It would be interesting to show a fiberglass or carbon fiber version also since you already have the form.
Hi Mossy:
Yes. It may be interesting to see a carbon fiber example of this part.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Nice old vice and tool holder
I've had that vise since 1982. One piece is broken off the sliding portion and I will repair it one day.
The vise holder is one of the best tools ever.
Jere
Nice project Jere. Nice work so far.
Hi Ran. I will be welding the odd shape this afternoon and finishing the welds. I hope to have the video up by the end of the week.
It took all day yesterday to get the truck unloaded and get the shop back into working shape.
Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 I bet, you had to take to much back with you. I came up with another idea for one of your gear reducers, I should of bought one.
@@RRINTHESHOP Would you like me to send you a list of the ratios I have or do you have an idea of the ratio you require? You can call my cell 1-707-972-0677.
Jere, excellent job, that tucking tool is something I don't have and never thought I'd need since I'm only working with thin/soft copper but after watching how you massaged the curve with the aid of those tucking tools, I think they are necessary and very handy to have in my shop, thank you for teaching us how it's done. Ken.
Hello Ken:
Yes. Tucking tools are a handy bit of kit. These are quite handy when making a bowl shape in copper. I have two videos on how to make tucking forks. one for the one held in the vise and one for the hand held. Go to my channel and click on "videos" you will find both there.
Thanks for watching and your comment. And don't forget to subscribe. Jere
Well holy shit! This video just changed the way I work metal
Hello Patrick:
It's neat to learn new stuff. Spend a little time making a healthy pile of scrap. Making a mistake will teach you moor than watching someone else doing it right.
The only difference between you and me is that my pile of scrap is bigger than yours.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Thanks for sharing!!!
You are welcome Sam. Jere
This is really cool to see how two different thought processes can achieve the same outcome. Liked and subbed 👍👍
Hello Panda:
That was the reason for Ron and I doing this project. Too often you hear "no you have to do it my way". If you learn from many, you can make it in the way that suites you.
Thanks for the kind words. Jere
Thanks for another fine installment in this series. I love these collaborations. And I appreciate you included the making of the former heads and buck holder. Also the first time I’ve seen the tuck tool in use. I went back and checked that vid again. You have come long way since those early days Jere. Good job!
Hi Tony:
I hope you gained some good info from this series. I'm sending Ron the hammer form today so his portion should be coming soon.
Jere
I finely found time to watch this
thank you
I hope you enjoy the series. Jere
Looking forward to seeing the next episode. Thank you 🧡
Hi Deena:
I welded up the holes this morning and should get Ron my finished part and the hammer form early next week. It should be interesting to see Ron making the same part in a different way.
Thanks for watching. Jere
You sir are a true artist! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and talent with all of us!
Hello Fearless:
It is my pleasure.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere
"Just hand work", easy for you to say:)
Hi Margaret.
The more scrap you make the easier it gets. The thing is, I have a larger pile of scrap than most.
Jere
Another great video. Lots of good info. I also enjoyed the part on making the plastic hammer heads. I would have loved to see you make that same part out of steel to see how much harder it would have been to to make compared to aluminum. Thanks for sharing with all of us. Dan
Hi dd:
Ron and I discussed making it out of steel but it would have been quite abusive to the hammer form using an air hammer. Thanks. Jere
Love the two-camera angles with the picture-in-picture; it's the next best thing to 3D view. I'm impressed with your video editing and camera work; not many people have that skill set as well as the metalworking master level ability. I liked the details you provided about the regulator PSI, the alloy characteristics, the annealing demonstration, and showing how to make the polymer hammer bits. As if all that wasn't enough lol - I do actually have a suggestion to make your production even better. For this I just grabbed the first example video link - so not sure if this is the absolute best tutorial on the topic but it will be a start and it is only four minutes long. The video demonstrates an automated software tool to digitally remove all the spaces (just from spoken parts of your audio). It is commonly used on professional radio and tv broadcasting - when its done right the listener doesn't even know it; and no information is lost. Audacity is freeware. Here ya go: "How to Trim Away Dead Space Silence from Audio - Audacity Tutorial" th-cam.com/video/RnIiWi3rCuM/w-d-xo.html
Hello Police Dog:
I'm glad you gained some good info from this video, that is my intent to share with you guys.
Thanks for the link. I spend a bit of time working on the dead spaces in my video's and try to remove dead spaces so the movement in the video does not make it too jerky from one portion to the next. People may stop watching if I get too pro in my editing.
Thanks. Jere
Did anyone else cringe when Jere reached in to grab the hammer head material and then grabbed the shavings off from the cut off wheel? Love the fact you said you are bullheadef and didn’t want to build this piece out of 3 pieces👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Mike:
The saw is only turning at 54 rpm. Even a newly sharpened saw will not cut you. They are quite expensive but they leave little bur and don't smell like an abrasive saw.
As you may have noticed, I am not ashamed to show my mistakes if it will help others not make them.
Thanks for the great feed back. I love it. Jere
Thanks Jere. Loving your work 👍🏻
I was excited to see part three. I have done a lot of flow forming and always have formed into a female form so it was interesting to see someone do one on the out side. I generally use fully annealled 1100 since it offers the most stretch capability and it does form nicely. For doing those outside shrinks I have found that a concave "V" shaped tool works surprisingly well for unknown reasons. About 1/2 -5/8 wide at the open end of the V works for me. I just cut it on the band saw; not too fussy. Most of my forming tools for aluminum are made from HDPE which is a bit softer than the Delrin it looks like you use and I find it friendlier for the soft 1100.
Hello Edward:
Are you saying to cut the "V" on a slant like the female portion of a thumb nail die or is the "V" cut the entire distance of the tool?
Thanks for watching and thanks for the info. Always eager to learn. Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 It's just a simple Vee across the end of the cylindrical tool. About 60* included angle maybe 3/4" on a side. I suspect that the angle is not too fussy. I free handed it on the bandsaw. I have picture, but, apparently, no way to put it here.
Regards, Ed Taylor
@@edwardtaylor4785 If you could E Mail the pictures to jere@saber.net that would be great.
I appreciate your sharing. Jere
Jere, I'd be very interested to know the thickness at the thick and thin spots compared with the original .065". I'm looking forward to seeing the differences in your process and Ron's.
Hello Mr. Specialty:
I will try to give you both Ron's and my thickness measurements before I weld them together in the next video in this series.
Good question. Thanks. Jere
thanks as always Jere, i really enjoy this series. it's covering a lot of areas that i need more experience in. by the way, where would one obtain a spherical head, post dolly like you have?. Cheers.
Hi Eddie:
I hope you have gained something that you can use in the future. The ball can be found at an ornamental gate supplier. They are used to cap a square post. The one in the video is for capping a 4" square post. You have to remove the bottom portion of the casting.
Thanks for watching. Jere
sweet look great
Hi PJ:
You ain't seen nothing yet. Soon you will see Ron Covell make the same piece but in an entirely different way.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Молодец.
Jere, enjoy your videos. Is that UHMW that you used for the flow forming tool head.
Thanx,
Tom
Hi Tom:
I think it is a type of nylon. I picked it up at a surplus store some time ago. It worked well on the Jolly floor pans so I will continue to use it for other projects.
Thanks for watching. Jere
Jere, I’m enjoying the videos, as I want to learn flow forming for an upcoming project. I’m a total beginner, and am wondering what type of aluminum to use, and if I need to anneal it. The 1100 seemed to flow a lot better for your part. Did you anneal it like the 3003, or is it soft enough in its natural state? Are these the two main choices of aluminum for this type of work? Thanks a bunch
Hi Jesse:
I did not have to anneal the 1100 as it is 99% aluminum. The application and the amount of shape you put into the piece will determine what material you use.
Sorry I cant give you a solid answer without knowing what it will be used for.
Jere
@@jerekirkpatrick2092 I want to make foot wells in the floor pan of my airplane in order to have a more comfortable seating position. I want to drop the area where my feet rest on the floor about 2” lower than the existing floor. I envision two rectangular (or oval maybe) pans approximately 6” by 10” each. The existing floor material is .040 6061 T6, but the parts I make only need to be strong enough to take the abuse my feet will inflict as there are structural members nearby. I think a speed blister shape would be easier to form, but I would rather have a more rectangular shape if possible. Any advice on material for that sort of shape? Thanks
@@jessejenks5401 I have made many parts for race cars but am reluctant to make or give advice on airplanes as they are out of my range of knowledge.
Jere
What material did you use for the ends of the air hammers?
Hi Bob:
The material is UHMW. It slides easily on the aluminum and is resistant to impact.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe. Jere
Hi Jere,
As usual.. great tips and tricks.
You said a "rational" person would make that in 3 pieces. You didn't do that. Later you said you were "bull-headed". I guess that does sound better than "irrational". ;)
By the way.. I tried buying you a coffee again but I still get, "The merchant requires a US billing address for all purchases made using PayPal."
Apparently, (according to PayPal help) you can "Make adjustments to your Block Payments settings in My Seller Settings." I have no idea if that is the case but maybe you could check that out. You might be missing out on a lot of coffee money!
Joe
Hey there Joe:
I seldom move into the realm of "rational". It seams so boring and predictable.
Thanks for the heads up on the coffee. I think the setting are that way because if I sell something from my web sight it will not calculate the shipping charges for another country.
I will give Pay Pal a call and see if there is a work around. Heaven knows I need your money.
Thank as always. Jere
Others seem to get away with not being rational so I gave it up years ago. It just wasn't fun.
Good luck on the PayPal thingie.
Joe
I mean not to be terse in me asking but are you ,Sir using steel or Aluminum? Mr. Covell uses Aluminum . I can't tell on your videos( you make it look easy).
Hello Bob:
The first two were made with 3003 half hard aluminum and the second 2 were made with 1100 aluminum. They could be made of 20 or 22ga steel but it would be much harder on the hammer form.
Thanks for the question. Jere
dude how's your hearing?