Thank you for this : - it has methodolody - it has clarity - it is very understandable. At last i understand the alternater bunch test and moreover why the lamp goes off. I am greatful for your work.
I don’t get the purpose of the resistor (bulb) on the d+ line other than diagnostic purposes. Seems to work fine on my old tractor using a 4” terminal to terminal jumper wire.
wait i don't get it. The test i mean. current is flowing and amperage is being drawn. Why doesnt the light stay on and why does amperage decrease instead of increase? Does it mean the alternator is bad cause i would assume 2.5 amps running through your car wouldn't make it function properly
In this test the only load is the battery. Since it is nearly full it doesn't need much current. See my other video where I use clamp meter to check amperage in a running car. If you follow the current direction on the diode to the bulb you will see that it doesn't flow through the bulb when the alternator is spinning and charges the battery.
@@robertdeptula2003 Fron nissan maxima qx Alternator nr 11.1357 I think I already have it connected correctly, but I can't spin the alternator at a sufficient speed. the alternator has a lot of resistance when turning, I can't spin it with a classic drill. it is normal?
@@robertdeptula2003 So I already tested it with such a powerful drill. I reached 14.3V I put new bearings. It was just about a stronger drill. Thank you for your cooperation. Good luck
Dash alternator indicator does not go out. When bench testing alternator inside the vehicle, the bulb I rigged to D+ goes out when I crank the alternator with a drill and voltage increases by about .5. When I remove the dash indicator connector from the alternator, the dash ALT indicator does out, but again, not when I turn engine over or drive the alternator with a drill. ????? I feel like I am in the twilight zone.
@@robertdeptula2003 Thanks. The conundrum I have is that my test bulb goes out but the dash light does not. They are each wired the same, powered through ignition with negative going to the D+ on alternator. This means, in theory, that either both bulbs work or both do not work. Presently, my test bulb works, but the dash does not. This is the case with two different alternators, both of which are generating excess of 12 volts and turning off my test bulb. Both also fail to make the dash go out. It cannot be grounded someplace, because when I remove the connector from d+ BOTH my test bulb and dash bulb go out.
There must be something different between your rigged bulb circuit and dash light. My only guess is that you are getting sufficient power from the bulb you rigged but not from the dash. Test voltage in both, if there is a significant difference, then the problem is your dash circuit. Even if there is not a significant difference, connect BOTH to D+. If they both then go out, the problem is your dash circuit. If this is the case, you can probably do a work around by powering D+ by alternative means. Make sure there is a load (your rigged light may suffice just fine) Your dash light should then operate as it should.
Actually this is somewhat incorrect, not been like this in many decades. D+ used to be used this way a long time ago as you said, now days on modern alternators d+ is just a "logic High", not actual "power" needed to D+ anymore. Because no one uses 20mA bulbs anymore. The "Logic High" now powers on an alternator through an LED (few mA or a bulb so it will work on modern cars. In other words the alternator gets it's d+ single and then "powers" d+ through B+. Yes, alternators have gone digital too.
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Thank you for this :
- it has methodolody
- it has clarity
- it is very understandable.
At last i understand the alternater bunch test and moreover why the lamp goes off.
I am greatful for your work.
You are welcome
I don’t get the purpose of the resistor (bulb) on the d+ line other than diagnostic purposes. Seems to work fine on my old tractor using a 4” terminal to terminal jumper wire.
awesome. thank you for the informative video! goodluck on 5k subs
Thanks
wait i don't get it. The test i mean. current is flowing and amperage is being drawn. Why doesnt the light stay on and why does amperage decrease instead of increase? Does it mean the alternator is bad cause i would assume 2.5 amps running through your car wouldn't make it function properly
In this test the only load is the battery. Since it is nearly full it doesn't need much current. See my other video where I use clamp meter to check amperage in a running car.
If you follow the current direction on the diode to the bulb you will see that it doesn't flow through the bulb when the alternator is spinning and charges the battery.
if the voltage regulator is malfunctioning , intermittent will it shut off the alternator causing the battery to drain ?
Great explanation and video. Thank you very much.
You are welcome
So you connect -ve battery to com on multimeter?
Battery negative to COM on the multimeter.
Very well done
Why is it called D and not A?
Idk
Hi.
Can you advise me if I have a two-pin alternator?
To which outlet should I connect the light bulb?
Well thank you
What is the model or part number?
@@robertdeptula2003
Fron nissan maxima qx
Alternator nr 11.1357
I think I already have it connected correctly, but I can't spin the alternator at a sufficient speed.
the alternator has a lot of resistance when turning, I can't spin it with a classic drill.
it is normal?
Ball bearings?
Does the pulley spin freely when no electrical connections are made?
@@robertdeptula2003 So I already tested it with such a powerful drill. I reached 14.3V
I put new bearings.
It was just about a stronger drill. Thank you for your cooperation. Good luck
Salve,la lampadina da quanti w deve essere? grazie in anticipo
To była 5 watowa żarówka. Powodzenia!
Dash alternator indicator does not go out. When bench testing alternator inside the vehicle, the bulb I rigged to D+ goes out when I crank the alternator with a drill and voltage increases by about .5. When I remove the dash indicator connector from the alternator, the dash ALT indicator does out, but again, not when I turn engine over or drive the alternator with a drill. ????? I feel like I am in the twilight zone.
Check diodes and voltage regulator.
@@robertdeptula2003 Thanks. The conundrum I have is that my test bulb goes out but the dash light does not. They are each wired the same, powered through ignition with negative going to the D+ on alternator. This means, in theory, that either both bulbs work or both do not work. Presently, my test bulb works, but the dash does not. This is the case with two different alternators, both of which are generating excess of 12 volts and turning off my test bulb. Both also fail to make the dash go out.
It cannot be grounded someplace, because when I remove the connector from d+ BOTH my test bulb and dash bulb go out.
There must be something different between your rigged bulb circuit and dash light. My only guess is that you are getting sufficient power from the bulb you rigged but not from the dash. Test voltage in both, if there is a significant difference, then the problem is your dash circuit. Even if there is not a significant difference, connect BOTH to D+. If they both then go out, the problem is your dash circuit.
If this is the case, you can probably do a work around by powering D+ by alternative means. Make sure there is a load (your rigged light may suffice just fine) Your dash light should then operate as it should.
Actually this is somewhat incorrect, not been like this in many decades. D+ used to be used this way a long time ago as you said, now days on modern alternators d+ is just a "logic High", not actual "power" needed to D+ anymore. Because no one uses 20mA bulbs anymore. The "Logic High" now powers on an alternator through an LED (few mA or a bulb so it will work on modern cars. In other words the alternator gets it's d+ single and then "powers" d+ through B+. Yes, alternators have gone digital too.
🎉👍🏼👍🏼
Excellent
To bench test you need a carbon pile load and a minimum of 5 hp to dpin it. You're eating too many Crabbie Patties.