This is what I love about mopar from the 60s to the late 80s the interchangeable parts! You are a pro as far as I have seen! And the distributor oil pump drive is the only thing that you can disturb to mess up the timing and you know that's easy to set! Good work as always man.
I remember back when I was a teenager....trying to learn how to drop in a distributor on TDC of the #1 compression stroke...POP! BANG! CLUNK! 😆 I learned everything on my own....rebuilt (re-assembled a machined engine) my first engine just from reading Hot Rod mags for years. TH-cam is pretty awesome to have guys like you willing to teach the whippersnappers...lol.
Video gave me clarification on how to get the distributor out and back in, did mine today in an hour and adjusted her twice by ear and shes running great. Thanks for the useful videos theyre immensely helpful
The Chrysler V8 distributor is about the easiest to replace. With Ford it's not too bad but have had the oil pump drive shaft fall out of the distributor then either fish it out of the oil pump, or replace it. ( I replaced it much easier) with GM the slot in the oil pump drive needs to be lined up or the distributor won't go all the way down. With the GM IF your sure the distributor is in correctly, you can hold the distributor down and have someone crank the engine for you and it will fall into place. I have done that before too. Good luck with your project
I was getting up to wiggle that post 4 yah, but you beat me too it. We had a couple days reprieve from heat and humidity. But ton of forest fire smoke looks like 1970s LA smog every morning...
Im looking to wire something up thats similar......i want run new wires with a smaller harness.....just wanna be taught a few things like can i bypass the ignition module....?
@@318willrun well cant i wire the distrubitor to a power source?.....not really familar with dodge...im more familer the hei or which ever....the coil on top of the distributor....
I have a 73 Plymouth satellite with a stock 400.. just curious on how much more horsepower can you get from switching from the stock Mopar electronic ignition vs MSD….. would it be worth it. Not for racing but just to take it out for a joy ride
@@318willrun I agree, I have worked on a lot of different cars even put a Chrysler ignition control box on a Ford, I was amazed at how much better the Ford 460 engine ran. It was a 1977 Ford. Remember, Chrysler was the first to use electronic ignition so they have been at it longer. Perhaps the best. Maybe not. Still the Chrysler is a good system. Ok the Lean Burn was pretty bad. Otherwise it's a good system
That's not fair, im still out in the heat working, doing what I do everyday and that is drywall, must be nice to be able to enjoy the ac, think about me as you're relaxing if you would🥵🥵🥵🥵🥵 😂🤣😂
What's part called where the mechanical fuel pump ties into the carb in the thumbnail I'm having trouble taking it off to clear my line out because I feel like it's cloged
I have a fifth avenue 1985vand I want to ditch the ignition set up so I can put a intake and 4 barrel carb what ignition system works best is the orange box conversion kit good
Reaper, that is a scary find, but is fixable. I have worked on big trucks, and trailers 18 wheelers, and have done that a few times. If possible, find metal that's the same thickness as your frame or thicker try to weld the frame together IF possible. If not, try to have both pieces lined up as squared as you can then grind all the dirt, rust and grime off both sides, front and back you can drill holes and bolt it together at least 3 bolts each side ( of the Crack) then have everything welded into place. Sounds like a lot of work but a good shop/welder could have the job done in about 3 hours if they have all the materials they need. Good luck , it can be done.
I just bought a distributor like you build in (electrical) and when I checked mine from a '73 318 it has points. Can I just change the distri or do I have to wire something? Rockauto said it will fit so I bought it ;) Now I'm curious
Distributor will work fine, but you'll need the connector (wiring) to make it work. Somebody changed it, because '73 should have been electronic ignition.
Idles at 800 rpm's, and that's where i checked initial. I couldn't see the tach to know what RPM total was in for sure, I could only make a guess by ear. Thanks for watching!
Passenger side is the normal, factory position. But, as long as the rotor is pointing at the right plug it will run. If you want to put it in the correct position, it is very easy to do.
I can’t tell if I’m 180 degrees out on mine… 318 TBI to carb swap. It’s been a nightmare. Cylinder 1 on the distributor points right out to the front of the car, right? Was firing on 5-6 cylinders and changed to what I thought is the correct order… no fire at all now.
@@Returnofthemac67 Make sure you do your research. Wiring diagrams, whole nine yards. The Facebook group "72-93 Dodge Trucks" is the reason I got it off the ground and running. You'll have to wire in a voltage regulator going to the distributor, get a Mopar electronic ignition from an old 70s 440 or a new one on eBay. Had to wire the fuel pump and distributor into the main harness. It's a big blue wire if I remember correctly. Also, make sure your vacuum lines are good and you run a fuel pressure regulator, or else you'll have no power and too much gas.
A timing light can make it easy, one thing I found on an 88 Dodge 3.9 V6,.the harmonic balancer (where the timing marks are) were a little off, made it difficult to set timing. Was supposed to be 10 degrees before TDC when set there it started fast, but was way down on power. Out of frustration I advanced the timing a bunch one night and the idle RPM came up fast. I wound up having to add about another 10 degrees to base timing because the balancer was off.Took me about 3 days to get it running correctly. Good luck
This is what I love about mopar from the 60s to the late 80s the interchangeable parts! You are a pro as far as I have seen! And the distributor oil pump drive is the only thing that you can disturb to mess up the timing and you know that's easy to set! Good work as always man.
I agree that the parts interchangeable is a big benefit !! Thanks for your kind words !!!
Good follow up on previous video. Looking forward to more tuning tips.
Thanks for following along. I really appreciate it !!
I really like how Chrysler design their distributor with the slot they're really easy to install.
I agree... It makes life so much easier...
Yup, they have their stuff together that's for sure.
Marco,
Thats true with the V8, the slant 6 has a gear, still not as bad as Ford, or GM just a little more patience is needed
Great video! Great to see the drag truck coming along!
I really appreciate you following along. I mean that.
I just started messing with a stock 318 in my Duster and it seems to like 34 total too. Please keep us in the loop with your tuning!
Thanks for watching !!
69 318 same
I remember back when I was a teenager....trying to learn how to drop in a distributor on TDC of the #1 compression stroke...POP! BANG! CLUNK! 😆
I learned everything on my own....rebuilt (re-assembled a machined engine) my first engine just from reading Hot Rod mags for years.
TH-cam is pretty awesome to have guys like you willing to teach the whippersnappers...lol.
There was a lot of us that was in your boat. ha ! Thanks for watching
Video gave me clarification on how to get the distributor out and back in, did mine today in an hour and adjusted her twice by ear and shes running great. Thanks for the useful videos theyre immensely helpful
Glad it helped
The Chrysler V8 distributor is about the easiest to replace. With Ford it's not too bad but have had the oil pump drive shaft fall out of the distributor then either fish it out of the oil pump, or replace it. ( I replaced it much easier) with GM the slot in the oil pump drive needs to be lined up or the distributor won't go all the way down. With the GM IF your sure the distributor is in correctly, you can hold the distributor down and have someone crank the engine for you and it will fall into place. I have done that before too.
Good luck with your project
Appreciate you putting this out. Makes me less nervous to jump into doing the swap.
Awesome!!! Good stuff sir!!!
Thank you kindly
timing 34 is about right on older stock engines 28 would be like a ls with lots of good combustion swirl and such
You should do a video for deleting a lean burn system.
I don't have a lean burn to convert. Thanks for watching !
Truck sounded like she’s running good. Enjoy a cold liquid treat....👍🇺🇸
Thanks 👍
I was getting up to wiggle that post 4 yah, but you beat me too it.
We had a couple days reprieve from heat and humidity. But ton of forest fire smoke looks like 1970s LA smog every morning...
Thanks, I didn't see ya heading that way or I'd have stayed seated !!! Thanks for watching !
34°to 38° total
Im looking to wire something up thats similar......i want run new wires with a smaller harness.....just wanna be taught a few things like can i bypass the ignition module....?
@@SteveN-yt2lt well, something has to give the fire, either points, HEI, or an aftermarket box
@@318willrun well cant i wire the distrubitor to a power source?.....not really familar with dodge...im more familer the hei or which ever....the coil on top of the distributor....
@@SteveN-yt2lt yes, that is what I was saying. But it has some form of a control box.
I have a 73 Plymouth satellite with a stock 400.. just curious on how much more horsepower can you get from switching from the stock Mopar electronic ignition vs MSD….. would it be worth it. Not for racing but just to take it out for a joy ride
Unless your stock system is weak or not functioning properly, there is little gain by upgrading ignition on a joy ride-cruiser type of classic
@@318willrun
I agree, I have worked on a lot of different cars even put a Chrysler ignition control box on a Ford, I was amazed at how much better the Ford 460 engine ran. It was a 1977 Ford. Remember, Chrysler was the first to use electronic ignition so they have been at it longer. Perhaps the best. Maybe not. Still the Chrysler is a good system. Ok the Lean Burn was pretty bad. Otherwise it's a good system
I'm having issues with intermediate start no start on my Duster. Im thinking the timing chain gone.
could be... could be ballast resister or some other electrical, or fuel supply,
That's not fair, im still out in the heat working, doing what I do everyday and that is drywall, must be nice to be able to enjoy the ac, think about me as you're relaxing if you would🥵🥵🥵🥵🥵 😂🤣😂
.... and my wife just gave me a cool lemonade slushy... LOL.. Thanks for watching!
@@318willrun
Now that's a thoughtful wife right there!!
thank you for the video very good
What's part called where the mechanical fuel pump ties into the carb in the thumbnail I'm having trouble taking it off to clear my line out because I feel like it's cloged
Holley fuel fitting
I have a fifth avenue 1985vand I want to ditch the ignition set up so I can put a intake and 4 barrel carb what ignition system works best is the orange box conversion kit good
you can use the conversion kit for sure; or use the HEI.
Any suggestions on frame repair? Pulled out my gas tank today and I’ve got a hole about one inch wide in the frame.
Ouch! Sometimes you can weld in a piece of metal. That's a tough find, sorry man.
Reaper, that is a scary find, but is fixable. I have worked on big trucks, and trailers 18 wheelers, and have done that a few times. If possible, find metal that's the same thickness as your frame or thicker try to weld the frame together IF possible. If not, try to have both pieces lined up as squared as you can then grind all the dirt, rust and grime off both sides, front and back you can drill holes and bolt it together at least 3 bolts each side ( of the Crack) then have everything welded into place. Sounds like a lot of work but a good shop/welder could have the job done in about 3 hours if they have all the materials they need.
Good luck , it can be done.
And now i know how to change a distributor without wrecking anything
I just bought a distributor like you build in (electrical) and when I checked mine from a '73 318 it has points. Can I just change the distri or do I have to wire something?
Rockauto said it will fit so I bought it ;) Now I'm curious
Distributor will work fine, but you'll need the connector (wiring) to make it work. Somebody changed it, because '73 should have been electronic ignition.
at what rpm do you check you inital and total timing and what does it idle at in park
Idles at 800 rpm's, and that's where i checked initial. I couldn't see the tach to know what RPM total was in for sure, I could only make a guess by ear. Thanks for watching!
I noticed your vacuum advance is pointing towards the passenger side. My vacuum advance is pointing towards the driver side? Is that incorrect?
Passenger side is the normal, factory position. But, as long as the rotor is pointing at the right plug it will run. If you want to put it in the correct position, it is very easy to do.
Copy that. Thank you for the info. @@318willrun
Give me some time to get there I was almost out the door.
Appreciate you head'n that way !! Thanks for watching !
🙏 thank u very useful
Where did you find that particular distributor? I need that same connector. Bought one at auto zone but it has only one wire coming out of it.
Just factory distributors.
I’m working on a 360, wow such junk. Thinking it needs an hei
I can’t tell if I’m 180 degrees out on mine… 318 TBI to carb swap. It’s been a nightmare. Cylinder 1 on the distributor points right out to the front of the car, right? Was firing on 5-6 cylinders and changed to what I thought is the correct order… no fire at all now.
You can pull the distributor and rotate the rotor 180 to see what it does... Thanks for watching, and good luck !
@@318willrun I did that and the truck fired right up like it ran yesterday!… it’s been a year since it last ran. Thank you.
@@jordantomblin2302 Glad it worked !
@Jordan Tomblin Thinking about doing this swap myself. Anything to know in advance?
@@Returnofthemac67 Make sure you do your research. Wiring diagrams, whole nine yards. The Facebook group "72-93 Dodge Trucks" is the reason I got it off the ground and running. You'll have to wire in a voltage regulator going to the distributor, get a Mopar electronic ignition from an old 70s 440 or a new one on eBay. Had to wire the fuel pump and distributor into the main harness. It's a big blue wire if I remember correctly. Also, make sure your vacuum lines are good and you run a fuel pressure regulator, or else you'll have no power and too much gas.
Thx
i have a 1989 d150 just put a new motor in it my timing doesnt feel right i wish you lived by me...lol
You'll get it, I'm sure of it ! Thanks for watching!
A timing light can make it easy, one thing I found on an 88 Dodge 3.9 V6,.the harmonic balancer (where the timing marks are) were a little off, made it difficult to set timing. Was supposed to be 10 degrees before TDC when set there it started fast, but was way down on power. Out of frustration I advanced the timing a bunch one night and the idle RPM came up fast. I wound up having to add about another 10 degrees to base timing because the balancer was off.Took me about 3 days to get it running correctly. Good luck
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