I would recommend - cut a plastic pen to the size of your drill bit minus the length of the hole you will drill - instead of using tape(which was hard for me to get accurate) use the pen casing and put in on your drill bit, then once you reach the desired drilling depth, the pen casing will stop the drill. makes it a ton easier
Recommended drill bit size is usually printed on the ski. They are metric sized. Wood core 3.5x9.0, 3.6x9.5 Metal laminate skis 4.1x9.5 and tap with 12AB tap to cut thread. Ski drill bits are double taper so you can’t exceed the length. You can buy drill bits for $20 each. Binding screws are Posidrive #3 You should always tap screw holes on skis with metal. Skis like Blizzard Brahma, Bonafide, Volkl Mantra, Kendo are not easy to drill. A drill guide and sharp ski drill bit and 12AB tap are then right tools to do the job yourself. Wood core skis are easy to drill but a ski drill bit that is recommended size is the best way to go.
+Pieder Beeli Good catch! Yes, boot size, not binding size. So, as far as the size of the bit goes, I couldn't find an official size guide so I didn't discuss it. That being said, the way I do it is simply eyeball the size of your bit up to be the same size (err on the side of being too small) as the shank of the screw (the solid part inside the threads of the screw. This gives the screw enough space to not strip out/crack the ski, but is tight enough that the threads will still grab the ski.
A (hopefully) helpful hint: when you put tape on the bit, have a flap of it stick out (tape the tape to itself to make a little flag). This will make it easier to see when it touches the ski. It will start to brush away the shavings just before it touches the ski.
I feel like hand screwing them in keeps the screw tighter innthe wood longer. A power tool tends to tear up the wood due the force if pushing and drilling. But the glue may help avoid that.
Excellent tutorial. Mounted mi new bindings perfectly. Now a have an issue, drilled another pair of skis (went a little bit further), screwed long screws, so I tooked them off. Now i have the correct screws. Should I use the same wholes? Adding epoxy to it of course. Thks for your help
Im no expert for skis, but in general, I think it's a better idea to drill new holes when possible. I would epoxy the old holes to waterproof them, and then drill a new set slightly further back from the first. You can lay the mounting go the bindings a little bit so it might ski slightly differently, but you will have a much better structural hole for the bindings to attach to.
Looking at moving some fixed bindings like this and the screws to appear to be self-tapping in the sense that they are tapered at the end and pretty sharp. At least I was trying to convince my daughter as such (her skis and bindings) haha
A screw has a core which should match the drill bit size you use. This core will enter the hole you have made with out compression. It is the threads on the screw that tap their groove on the way in that provide the holding force. A little compression is ok and too big of a hole is not good. Common ski drill bits are 3.5mm or 4.1mm by 9.5mm. 3.5mm or 4.1mm is the width of drill bit that matches the screws solid section. Here is a conversion chart to get close to those two sizes 9/64"drill bit = 0.140625" = 3.571875mm 5/32"drill bit = 0.156250" = 3.968750mm. Even if your ski says 4.1mm width check your binding screws and measure the core. No sense in drilling bigger holes than needed. My favorite tool is a digital caliper from Harbor freight that makes measuring and converting metric to SAE with a push of a button.
As a former ski tech, I would definitely have the bindings tested for 'release' Otherwise, if the binding doesn't release properly you could get hurt, and obviously you don't want to release too early either. Older bindings should without a doubt be checked,
@@vitaminb4869 The actual test where you have true info and can see if there is a problem is in the ski shop. I know that we can test it on the hill, but the info comes from the shop.
@@vitaminb4869 It's true that the recommended release threshold will probably be too low but.. I learned the hard way in 2003 when I tried new boots in old bindings without adjusting for the new boot base (sole) length. I'll never have full range of motion in my left ankle again..
i Just got new Armada Bindings ( N L10 2020 ) but i cant find a template anywhere to mount em ... any advice for me ? just use a common salomon template ?
Awesome video bro, this really helped. I busted my binding on a trip. And ended up installing new bindings on a Sunday to get me going on Monday. THANKS!
Thanks!! As far as the size of the bit goes, I couldn't find an official size guide so I didn't discuss it. That being said, the way I do it is simply eyeball the size of your bit up to be the same size (err on the side of being too small) as the shank of the screw (the solid part inside the threads of the screw. This gives the screw enough space to not strip out/crack the ski, but is tight enough that the threads will still grab the ski. For the 3 screws vs 4 screws; I might not understand your question fully, so my answer may come off as a bit snarky. (Sorry about that) I used 4 screws because the binding came with 4 screws. If your binding only has space for 3 screws, use 3 screws.
9/64 with no metal top sheet (most skis), 5/32 with a metal top sheet. You should use a #12AB ski tap tool to pre tap screw holes, apparently this is not necessary just makes the job smoother to do, you should use Loctite 277, wood glue, or epoxy to lubricate the hole for the screw.
Generally, adult bindings are mounted with a 4.1mm drill bit and youth are generally 3.6mm holes. Wintersteiger makes a special bit with a stop to avoid having to eyeball the depth or use tape.
@@vitaminb4869 ....Oh bummer sorry to hear that you did not get any paper templates with your bindings ....I buy Telemark and AT bindings all the time and mount them and they always come with the paper templates .... .... Ok have a good season !
@@Jesse_east_ I'm with you. I'm 6'3" 225 lbs. I won't ski with anything but Look Pivots, heavier construction and binding, but best heal connect on the planet.
+theo Åhman Obviously you should check with your ski manufacturer, but from the general consensus, you can drill 3 SETS of binding holes before the structural integrity of the ski is compromised. Just be sure to fill up those holes properly!
I don't blame you. Getting your own skis is, IMO, a really good choice. If I may, I'd recommend renting for two more days but rent from a ski shop that has a decent demo selection that will allow you to switch skis out throughout the day then try to ski on several different skis/styles of skis so you kind of know how they all feel. Demo rentals area a little more expensive than standard rentals, but sometimes the shop will even apply your demo rental fee toward the price of purchasing skis. Just a few tips. Good luck! :D
Do you find this better than a jig??? The last shop I worked at the idiots that owned the place destroyed every jig (along with every thing else). So all skis were mis-mounted. We just started to call every mount a freehand crapper. LMAO. Your mounts look good.
I don't know if it's necessarily 'better' than a jig, but it, perhaps, forces me to be more precise and just pay a little more attention. It's definitely slower than a jig, that's for sure.
DISCLAIMER: Improper mounting of ski bindings can lead to injury or death. Please consider leaving this one to the pros.
I would recommend - cut a plastic pen to the size of your drill bit minus the length of the hole you will drill - instead of using tape(which was hard for me to get accurate) use the pen casing and put in on your drill bit, then once you reach the desired drilling depth, the pen casing will stop the drill. makes it a ton easier
Recommended drill bit size is usually printed on the ski. They are metric sized. Wood core 3.5x9.0, 3.6x9.5 Metal laminate skis 4.1x9.5 and tap with 12AB tap to cut thread. Ski drill bits are double taper so you can’t exceed the length. You can buy drill bits for $20 each. Binding screws are Posidrive #3 You should always tap screw holes on skis with metal. Skis like Blizzard Brahma, Bonafide, Volkl Mantra, Kendo are not easy to drill.
A drill guide and sharp ski drill bit and 12AB tap are then right tools to do the job yourself. Wood core skis are easy to drill but a ski drill bit that is recommended size is the best way to go.
Good tip!
Thank you and good job! 1:40 Should have said "size of your boot" (not binding). Did I miss the discussion of bit diameter sizing?
+Pieder Beeli Good catch! Yes, boot size, not binding size. So, as far as the size of the bit goes, I couldn't find an official size guide so I didn't discuss it. That being said, the way I do it is simply eyeball the size of your bit up to be the same size (err on the side of being too small) as the shank of the screw (the solid part inside the threads of the screw. This gives the screw enough space to not strip out/crack the ski, but is tight enough that the threads will still grab the ski.
its not the boot size, it's the boot's sole length in mm. It should be maybe 5 cm larger than the boot size
I just finished mounting my my bindings to skis. Excellent video tutorial!
Dose any wood glue work (stander PVA)? or do I need something more specific?
A (hopefully) helpful hint: when you put tape on the bit, have a flap of it stick out (tape the tape to itself to make a little flag). This will make it easier to see when it touches the ski. It will start to brush away the shavings just before it touches the ski.
Great Tip!
$2.00 drill stop
I feel like hand screwing them in keeps the screw tighter innthe wood longer. A power tool tends to tear up the wood due the force if pushing and drilling. But the glue may help avoid that.
If you're DIYing this, you can absolutely choose whichever method you like. 👍
Thanks for the tutorial!
Excellent tutorial. Mounted mi new bindings perfectly.
Now a have an issue, drilled another pair of skis (went a little bit further), screwed long screws, so I tooked them off. Now i have the correct screws. Should I use the same wholes? Adding epoxy to it of course. Thks for your help
Im no expert for skis, but in general, I think it's a better idea to drill new holes when possible. I would epoxy the old holes to waterproof them, and then drill a new set slightly further back from the first. You can lay the mounting go the bindings a little bit so it might ski slightly differently, but you will have a much better structural hole for the bindings to attach to.
About to mount some snowblades, wish me luck!
Me tooooo
Is there any need to tap the hole? Or are most screw bindings self tapping?
Looking at moving some fixed bindings like this and the screws to appear to be self-tapping in the sense that they are tapered at the end and pretty sharp. At least I was trying to convince my daughter as such (her skis and bindings) haha
Should the drill bit be smaller than the screws on the bindings?
A screw has a core which should match the drill bit size you use. This core will enter the hole you have made with out compression. It is the threads on the screw that tap their groove on the way in that provide the holding force. A little compression is ok and too big of a hole is not good. Common ski drill bits are 3.5mm or 4.1mm by 9.5mm. 3.5mm or 4.1mm is the width of drill bit that matches the screws solid section. Here is a conversion chart to get close to those two sizes 9/64"drill bit = 0.140625" = 3.571875mm 5/32"drill bit = 0.156250" = 3.968750mm. Even if your ski says 4.1mm width check your binding screws and measure the core. No sense in drilling bigger holes than needed. My favorite tool is a digital caliper from Harbor freight that makes measuring and converting metric to SAE with a push of a button.
I have used lots of calipers.
any opinions on the difference between 2 part epoxy versus wood glue?
Guess if you don't want to use screws or drilling in your skis two comp epoxy mix is great
As a former ski tech, I would definitely have the bindings tested for 'release' Otherwise, if the binding doesn't release properly you could get hurt, and obviously you don't want to release too early either. Older bindings should without a doubt be checked,
Absolutely!!
You test that on the hill. The recommended value is probably too low anyway, so it doesn't matter what the machine will tell you.
@@vitaminb4869 The actual test where you have true info and can see if there is a problem is in the ski shop. I know that we can test it on the hill, but the info comes from the shop.
@@vitaminb4869 It's true that the recommended release threshold will probably be too low but.. I learned the hard way in 2003 when I tried new boots in old bindings without adjusting for the new boot base (sole) length. I'll never have full range of motion in my left ankle again..
i Just got new Armada Bindings ( N L10 2020 ) but i cant find a template anywhere to mount em ... any advice for me ? just use a common salomon template ?
Awesome video bro, this really helped. I busted my binding on a trip. And ended up installing new bindings on a Sunday to get me going on Monday. THANKS!
Fantastic! Glad it helped! Sometimes the job just needs to get done in a hurry, eh?
One thing has been awhile like 30 years ago but we used epoxy glue to mount but love this thanks ski downhill racer back in the day now powder skier 🍻
That's what I thought but it better be slow setting, eh? haha
nice video!
What drill size did you use? And do you think it's better to fix the fronbinding with 4 screws instead of 3?
Thanks!! As far as the size of the bit goes, I couldn't find an official size guide so I didn't discuss it. That being said, the way I do it is simply eyeball the size of your bit up to be the same size (err on the side of being too small) as the shank of the screw (the solid part inside the threads of the screw. This gives the screw enough space to not strip out/crack the ski, but is tight enough that the threads will still grab the ski.
For the 3 screws vs 4 screws; I might not understand your question fully, so my answer may come off as a bit snarky. (Sorry about that) I used 4 screws because the binding came with 4 screws. If your binding only has space for 3 screws, use 3 screws.
9/64 with no metal top sheet (most skis), 5/32 with a metal top sheet. You should use a #12AB ski tap tool to pre tap screw holes, apparently this is not necessary just makes the job smoother to do, you should use Loctite 277, wood glue, or epoxy to lubricate the hole for the screw.
Generally, adult bindings are mounted with a 4.1mm drill bit and youth are generally 3.6mm holes. Wintersteiger makes a special bit with a stop to avoid having to eyeball the depth or use tape.
If it has metal in the top sheet 4.1mm, if it has no metal 3.5mm. The depth is the main part, not end of the world if you mess the diameter up though
Where can I find the template to print offline?
Probably came with the bindings if you have old bindings you'll have to make your own template from the bindings themselves
Why wood glue for bonding metal to an epoxy ski?
Turns out as I bore the hole into the ski I did find that there is some wood-like material in there
very very useful! thank you!
HEY! Thanks a million for the template!
Maybe being picky, but the center line should be found from the steel edges, not from the top of the ski.
Where did you get the template?
when you buy bindings the template comes with them in the same box .
@@Sirskibumsalot No it does not.
@@vitaminb4869 ....Oh bummer sorry to hear that you did not get any paper templates with your bindings ....I buy Telemark and AT bindings all the time and mount them and they always come with the paper templates .... .... Ok have a good season !
How many times can you remount bindings? Looks like a lotta holes in the baby.
I think 3 is the magic number, this would be the 3rd set on this pair.
Thanks that was useful. Got a re-mount to perform...
But, WTF is with the Look bindings? We gave up on those in the 80s ffs
When there is a good sale... cheap and decent is totally acceptable. lol
What?! Look Pivot 12, 14, and 18s are the best bindings in the game! Do your knees a favor and get a pair if you are charging hard!
@@Jesse_east_ I'm with you. I'm 6'3" 225 lbs. I won't ski with anything but Look Pivots, heavier construction and binding, but best heal connect on the planet.
Did you fill the holes from the previous mounting?
On this ski they were already filled. If they weren't filled, I 2 park epoxy a dowel rod into the hole, sand flush, then epoxy to seal the dowel.
I Regret where i placed My binding. Can i replace It or do i have to buy New skis?
+theo Åhman Obviously you should check with your ski manufacturer, but from the general consensus, you can drill 3 SETS of binding holes before the structural integrity of the ski is compromised. Just be sure to fill up those holes properly!
5:52 Good answer!
Thanks! Skill skiing on those skis and working great! :D
Adventure in a Backpack I don't want to keep renting skis so I've been wanting to get a pair of freestyle skis but don't know much about them.
I don't blame you. Getting your own skis is, IMO, a really good choice. If I may, I'd recommend renting for two more days but rent from a ski shop that has a decent demo selection that will allow you to switch skis out throughout the day then try to ski on several different skis/styles of skis so you kind of know how they all feel. Demo rentals area a little more expensive than standard rentals, but sometimes the shop will even apply your demo rental fee toward the price of purchasing skis.
Just a few tips. Good luck! :D
Any particular brand recommendations?
how come the link doesn't work?
Likely because this video is 5-ish years old and the description hasn't been updated and the original content was deleted or something.
No Pain No Jane !
Thank you so much!
Awesome! Thanks so much
Thank you :)
No problem. Happy to help!
Link to templates is out of wack. Not good without templates or jig.
Wow❤️
Do you find this better than a jig??? The last shop I worked at the idiots that owned the place destroyed every jig (along with every thing else). So all skis were mis-mounted. We just started to call every mount a freehand crapper. LMAO. Your mounts look good.
I don't know if it's necessarily 'better' than a jig, but it, perhaps, forces me to be more precise and just pay a little more attention. It's definitely slower than a jig, that's for sure.
Oh gawd. Just another reason to do it yourself.
Every site requires a template. How to wothout template
Make your own template by poking holes through a piece of paper into the screw holes
Neither my ski's nor my bindings came with a template... Now what?
Perhaps a ski shop may be the best option then. 👍
@@EXPLORISTlife I see you have some printed out ones on the table in the video, I got those, just gotta keep trying to print them out properly
Lost me in the first two minutes on the binding templates.
Perhaps a ski shop may be the best option then. 👍