Wow, that was the most detailed ski tune ever. Thanks for not wasting anytime. It must take a long time, however, to completely tune and wax a pair of skis.
Best ski equipment video I have ever seen. It illuminates how a tune is probably more important than the make and model of the ski. Sure, the skis are all different, but wow, tuning really.matters.
Thanks for your FB! It really is that easy, more and more people are starting to realize this. Once you start you'll never stop because the benefits are to great vs. not doing it. All the best!
Chris, Excellent presentation... your knowledge, skill and delivery is professional grade and with practice any performance skier can master the process... job well done mike
Very informative. I don't go into anything like this degree of detail, but got some good info. I'm tuning my skis to 1 degree base and 3 degrees side, which does require sidewall removal. One thing I've done is to put black magic marker marks on the sides of the edges so that I can see when I've gotten the sidewalls to 3 degrees, since they normally are factory set to one or two degrees. It seems that has worked well.
Great video - thanks. I've been a tuner for 50 yrs. You included most of the techniques I use and love your tools. I really don't like doing the "rough" tune by hand and about 30 yrs ago I was able to purchase a Moen 6x60 wet belt sander then had a machinist friend make some guides for setting the side bevel. After getting the ski flat and setting the side bevel plus removing all the work hardened areas handwork begins. Grinding really speeds up the process plus provides a uniform and consistent result. Worst part of ski tuning IMHO is getting the ski flat. Typically new skis are concave in the tips and tails and convex under foot. For the price of skis one would think the companies could stop this. I've ranted about this for 50 yrs. Most skiers have no clue about ski tuning importance but it makes all the difference in technical skiing. Personally I like my bases flat without bevel and a 2-3 degree side bevel - makes for snappy turn initiation and a wonderful carving ride. Got any ideas for structure without having a stone grinder?
Thanks! You could try a rilling tool (used more often on Nordic skis) or a combination of steel and brass brushes and/or more aggressive style of brush resembling the steel wires on BBQ brush, but longer.
@@sidecuttuning Serious question (though sorry if it's a stupid one), but if the file can cut the metal edge, is it not sharp enough to cut the sidewall step? My current skis (Rossignol GS) already had the sidewall removed as I purchased them used, but need to prepare a new set of skis now. It seems like removing the sidewall step is not necessary? Thanks alot for clarifying. Ps. I LOVE your side edge oil. That product is like magic. @SIDECUT
You do need a tool (sidewall remover) to do this simply because a regular side-edge file alone gets clogged. Also, you need to create clearance so the file can create the appropriate acute angle. It really is an essential part of effective ski tuning.@@Student311178219
@@Student311178219 No, unfortunatley not. You honestly need a professional sidewall remover. Not the cheapest tool but arguably the most important one. Without it the sidewall interferes with the file/file guide to contact the edge. This clearance is paramount to correct tuning.
Very concise yet detailed guide, the filming and presentation is top notch as well. I noticed there was no use of any ski-specific base cleaners such as Rode Glider Cleaner or Swix Glide Wax Cleaner prior to waxing unlike many other tutorials/clinics. Instead, this guide suggests the isopropyl and distilled water mixture for both polishing and cleaning. The other guides recommend the base cleaner in addition to brushing in order to help the new wax adhere better. 1. Is this lack of base cleaner specific to Nanox, or do you guys find that this solution is sufficient for all waxes when the base is prepared with a brass/steel brushing? 2. Additionally, is there a recommended ratio of the isopropyl solution? Thanks in advance, been really enjoying using the tools.
This is our recommendation as well as Nanox's. For cleaning you can use a mixture high 40% denatured alcohol to 60% distilled water. You can play with the mixture.
Great video! Best at home tuning video i've seen. For the price the tuning kit is defitnally worth it. Personnaly i wouldn't do the side edge that way, but overall a great tutorial. Gonna check out how to build that bench. Cheers, have a great season.
Hello! Thank you for this very useful video! I have a question: If the base is slightly higher than the edges, what are the options to fix it and bring it all to one level?
Great and elaborate info. I do have a question though: when sharpening with a file and file guide do you work the edge from tip to tail on both sides? When learning this skill my mentor always stressed how important it is to work from tip to tail while sharpening, and I don't understand why seeing that you leave a smooth finish if you do it correctly (and you polish with diamond anyway) so the direction doesn't matter. Furthermore, if you would stop halfway through a cut going tip to tail, the remaining burr would face forward and cause the most problems. So my thought is that if you are bad at leaving a smooth edge you should sharpen from tail to tip... or don't sharpen at all ofcourse. I just leave the file guide set up the same for both sides, so the left side of the ski is sharpened tail to tip as I aim for a smooth finish anyway. What are your thoughts on sharpening direction?
I’ve been racing Nordic and waxing my own skis for 47 years but leave tuning of my alpine skis to the shop. I want to start tuning my own alpine skis. The issue that has scared me from tuning alpine skis is edge construction, bevel,etc. is there a diagram anywhere that describes edge angle ? Also, how can ski edges take frequent sharpening without eventually wear down to nothing? Stupid questions but they have caused apprehension in tackling my own tuning. Thanks
It’s scares most actually….but I’ve yet to meet anyone who has started and say they wish they hadn’t. It’s literally transformative to one’s experience on snow. Sure you need to learn it however the learning curve is extremely fast. Contact and we can help you out. And yes tuning the edges makes them thinner however for most skiers the ski wears out long before the edge wears out.
Is your intro kit enough to successfully complete all the steps seen here, or does one have to pony up for a lot more kit? I’m a decent skier and want to take my skiing to the next level. I’m a lift operator at Park City, so we get pretty good deals for tunes at a great local shop, but something tells me it can’t touch the eventual knowledge of managing one’s own ski tunes. That said, it’s tough to know if investing all the money it takes to get great gear like you make would be worth it for a noob like me. Either way I appreciate all the work you put into your videos!
The "How To Tune YOUR Skis' video uses only the tools found in our INTRO Tuning Kit the first 3 steps of the video and for Step 4 we use the items found in the 'BASIC Waxing Kit'. If you had these two kit + a set of vices you have everything you need to follow the steps of this video.
Great video. Looking forward to try some of you products. Especially the diamond disk. Could you, either here on in a future video run through the stones one can use. I am unsure how/why the Arkansas stone is used.
Refer to this link Kenneth: www.sidecut.com/category/ski-tuning-diamond-stones.html To help you choose which discs you need: 120 & 200 grits are used for sharpening, removing burrs and for hardened edges. Great for getting your edges back to the angle your desire quickly without using a file. 400 grit is used for sharpening and polishing. A great disc/stone to carry in your pocket on the mountain also! 600 grit is used for fine polishing. 1000 grit is used when you desire an extra high polish and are concerned about hundredths of a second or really care about how the edges perform on the hardest snow surfaces. Tip: It's best to have at least two Diamond Discs/Stones - 1 x 120 or 200grit and 1 x your choice of 400, 600 or 1000 grit. For best performance and extra long life all diamonds should be used with SIDECUT side-edge oil. Oil improves the polish and speed of the edges and is the best way clean them.
Hello guys, may I make a request? Could you do a vid that just goes over edge "polishing" for those of us who will let the shop do the big stuff but just want to keep edges in condition between services? Asking for...me. thanks.
Some good info, but no mention of flattening a convex base, as that would have to be done with a metal scraper unless you happen to have a base grinder.
That is correct you could attempt this with a metal scraper, however, a better option exists. Try our cutting tool (made for this purpose) which is the opposite side of our SIDECUT True Bar: www.sidecut.com/product/TRU_BR_130MM.html If it is a more extreme case then a grind is the best way to solve this issue and ensure the trueness of the base. Be sure to check the grind with a true bar and base bevel meter when completed.
I don't go that much in to detail when I'm tuning my skis, but I'm not racing, so I guess it doesn't matter all that much. And since a tune is only really good for one or two days I am not willing to go through this entire procedure every other day.
Georg, once your skis are tuned correctly the maintenance can be as short as just 10 minutes. You can just maintain the sharpness with a Diamond Guide & a 400 grit Diamond Disc.
Great Video. Question, when using the stone on the bottom edge, you wet the ski with a mixture of water and isopropyl alcohol. what purpose does the alcohol play? Can I use just water?
Awesome video! Quick question how to do you determine what angle you tune your base and side edge with? Is it based on what the ski manufacturer originally sets the edges at or is it more you can use what angle you prefer?
It goes by you strength, skill level and preference. Here's a link to our recommendations in a pdf chart. www.sidecut.com/ski-tuning-degree-guidelines.html
If the base isn't dirty you don't need to use wax remover. A better option is to wax the base and scrape it while the wax is still liquid this method of 'hot scraping' will extract dirt from the bases.
There are a few programs/schools in a few different countries that train technicians. Many professional technicians however have honed their craft in a competitive setting on National Teams around the world where their skills are assessed by both the athlete's feedback as well as the 'timer/clock'.
@@jacobadams6481 Yes some shops do. We also teach all levels at our Workshops. Take a look at our 'Tour' schedule under the 'Education' tab on our website.
Great video, amazing level of detail and professionalism. I have one question though, I'm a snowboarder :) Does this apply EXACTLY to snowboards as well OR is there any difference(s) in the process? Cheers
@@harkenm these days shorter scrapers (the same ones used for alpine skis) are much more commonly used. Longer scrapers 'bow' more easily and therefore may cause convexity on the base of your board = prematurely having to spend money grinding your board flat potentially.
@@sidecuttuning you added more base bevel to the contact points compared to the rest of the base bevel. So how much more do you bevel the contact points compared to the rest of the base edge?
Reese you tune often to 'maintain' your skis sharpness instead of leaving long periods between tunes. This way you take minimal edge off each time but more importantly you reap the benefits of tuned geared every time you're out there = more fun.
Tuning a new pair of skis takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours due to set up shown in the video. After that daily ski day maintenance can be done in in 15mins.
Thanks for your FB! Skis come with a very average tune (out of the wrapper) typically and need to be 'set up' based on ones skill level, strength and the type of ski/skiing you're doing. We believe getting the utmost FUN and PERFORMANCE out of your skis is the goal and tuning is an easy and major contributor to achieving both of these. Give tuning a test...you may never want to ski again without proper tuning.
Wait, wait, wait. This is not a ski tuning video for anyone trying to tune at home. This guy is using tools that are better than 90% of shops out there. This is high quality race prep. This is not for a diy skier.
Thanks for the feedback. This video is intended for those at home 😊 and anyone who wants a safer more enjoyable experience on-snow. Ski tuning is directly related to improving your skills on-snow and as coaches we want to demystify tuning for people because it's actually incredibly easy with the correct tools and information. Yes, one could say these are the basic steps for a 'race prep' however they are the exact steps done for a recreational weekend skier (minus a few nuances) whose goal is to have more fun and improve their turns. Our sport is so costly that in our opinion most are missing out on SO much when you don't tune your gear. We're here to give anyone interested the confidence and knowledge to DIY. And yes, you're right it can be very tricky to find really knowledgeable ski shops that tune well. However, that has changed a lot over the past few years and if you search a little you can find shops that do really great work. All the best!
Read your reply and re watched your video. I understand you want to sell your product, which looks on point. However you're misleading the viewer with the title. This is not diy unless you have some experience. Do you offer clinics on tunning? If so I'd like to swing by and check out your product.
How have I never heard of you!?! Stuck in the basement inhaling to much ptex smoke I guess. Just checked out your website and I wish the boss would have let me go to SIA back when it was legit. I'm going to still stick by my comments though. Peace
Thanks for the FB. Our four step system has helped many. Yes, we offer tuning workshops for all abilities. In fact, our 'model' has always been based around 'free education'. It's our belief that skiing and boarding are both way more fun when your gear is tuned correctly. PM us if you're interested in knowing more about us and/or our products. It's much easier to discuss on the phone or in-person. @@grujenkins
Wow, that was the most detailed ski tune ever. Thanks for not wasting anytime. It must take a long time, however, to completely tune and wax a pair of skis.
Best ski equipment video I have ever seen. It illuminates how a tune is probably more important than the make and model of the ski. Sure, the skis are all different, but wow, tuning really.matters.
@@sasquatchrosefarts Tuning is hugely important but not equivalent to the differences between skis. At least not advanced level skis.
Not with practice. I can do a full hand tune in about 20 minutes
This is, hands down, the BEST video on tuning and waxing on the internet.
Two thumbs up 👍👍
Thank You very much!! Really great to hear it's helpful to you!!
Best and most thorough video on the internet about tuning skis.
Thanks very much Rob!!
Wow!! This is an amazing ski tuning video. Thank you so much!!
Glad you liked it! We really appreciate the feedback!!
Going into details, lots of hints, calm and matter-of-fact makes this tutorial unique to the web.
Thanks for the feedback!!
Just did my first ever tune using the traveler’s kit and basic wax kit. It really is fool proof, anyone can do it! If you’re hesitant, just go for it!
Thanks for your FB! It really is that easy, more and more people are starting to realize this. Once you start you'll never stop because the benefits are to great vs. not doing it. All the best!
This is by far the most detailed & technical video I have ever seen on ski tuning. Excellent job!!
Thanks very much!! 👍
Chris,
Excellent presentation... your knowledge, skill and delivery is professional grade and with practice any performance skier can master the process... job well done
mike
Mike, thanks SO much! Your comments are really appreciated.
Very informative. I don't go into anything like this degree of detail, but got some good info. I'm tuning my skis to 1 degree base and 3 degrees side, which does require sidewall removal. One thing I've done is to put black magic marker marks on the sides of the edges so that I can see when I've gotten the sidewalls to 3 degrees, since they normally are factory set to one or two degrees. It seems that has worked well.
Great video - thanks. I've been a tuner for 50 yrs. You included most of the techniques I use and love your tools. I really don't like doing the "rough" tune by hand and about 30 yrs ago I was able to purchase a Moen 6x60 wet belt sander then had a machinist friend make some guides for setting the side bevel. After getting the ski flat and setting the side bevel plus removing all the work hardened areas handwork begins. Grinding really speeds up the process plus provides a uniform and consistent result. Worst part of ski tuning IMHO is getting the ski flat. Typically new skis are concave in the tips and tails and convex under foot. For the price of skis one would think the companies could stop this. I've ranted about this for 50 yrs. Most skiers have no clue about ski tuning importance but it makes all the difference in technical skiing. Personally I like my bases flat without bevel and a 2-3 degree side bevel - makes for snappy turn initiation and a wonderful carving ride. Got any ideas for structure without having a stone grinder?
Thanks! You could try a rilling tool (used more often on Nordic skis) or a combination of steel and brass brushes and/or more aggressive style of brush resembling the steel wires on BBQ brush, but longer.
@@sidecuttuning I have been using a riller tool Making a wider diameter brush could be an option
I didn't even know you could run a flat base edge! Going to have to try that the next time I get a base grind. Thanks!
Best tuning video on the web. Good job guys! and I am loving the tools I ordered last season.
Glad it's helpful!!
Thanks very much Gibb!!
@@sidecuttuning Serious question (though sorry if it's a stupid one), but if the file can cut the metal edge, is it not sharp enough to cut the sidewall step? My current skis (Rossignol GS) already had the sidewall removed as I purchased them used, but need to prepare a new set of skis now. It seems like removing the sidewall step is not necessary? Thanks alot for clarifying. Ps. I LOVE your side edge oil. That product is like magic. @SIDECUT
You do need a tool (sidewall remover) to do this simply because a regular side-edge file alone gets clogged. Also, you need to create clearance so the file can create the appropriate acute angle. It really is an essential part of effective ski tuning.@@Student311178219
@@Student311178219 No, unfortunatley not. You honestly need a professional sidewall remover. Not the cheapest tool but arguably the most important one. Without it the sidewall interferes with the file/file guide to contact the edge. This clearance is paramount to correct tuning.
Awesome video! Thanks for making such a comprehensive, well explained tutorial! Sidecut tools look incredible too!
Thanks very much glad it's helpful!!
Very well done video my friend! I'm going to be able to take my tuning up a notch or two with this!
Thanks very much!
Impressive guide/tutorial.
Good to hear for find it helpful. Check out our new Advanced Tuning Tips under the 'education tab' at sidecut.com for more help.
That is a fantastic video, I'm so impressed at your information level and helpful tips, I am now off to see if I can buy any sidecut tools in the UK.
Great to hear John. Glad you found it helpful. We ship world-wide and ship to the UK often. Bartlett's is also a retailer in the UK. All the best!
awesome video
Thanks!
Wow! Really impressive and informative. Thanks :)
Thank you!!
Great video man. One of the better, if not the best one out there. Thanks.
Thanks! Much appreciated. Glad it's helpful.
now thats a good instruction !
thanks a lot !
Thank you very much! Glad it was helpful.
Very concise yet detailed guide, the filming and presentation is top notch as well. I noticed there was no use of any ski-specific base cleaners such as Rode Glider Cleaner or Swix Glide Wax Cleaner prior to waxing unlike many other tutorials/clinics. Instead, this guide suggests the isopropyl and distilled water mixture for both polishing and cleaning. The other guides recommend the base cleaner in addition to brushing in order to help the new wax adhere better.
1. Is this lack of base cleaner specific to Nanox, or do you guys find that this solution is sufficient for all waxes when the base is prepared with a brass/steel brushing?
2. Additionally, is there a recommended ratio of the isopropyl solution?
Thanks in advance, been really enjoying using the tools.
This is our recommendation as well as Nanox's. For cleaning you can use a mixture high 40% denatured alcohol to 60% distilled water. You can play with the mixture.
Thanks very much for the feedback also.
@@sidecuttuning Thanks for the quick reply (and processing of the recent orders)!
@@RolandYong Of course! Here to help those who want it.
Great video! Best at home tuning video i've seen. For the price the tuning kit is defitnally worth it. Personnaly i wouldn't do the side edge that way, but overall a great tutorial. Gonna check out how to build that bench. Cheers, have a great season.
Thanks very much! We wish you a great season as well!!
Hello! Thank you for this very useful video! I have a question: If the base is slightly higher than the edges, what are the options to fix it and bring it all to one level?
Bebe, you would need to grind the ski/board flat.
Best ever seen tutorial!
Thanks Leonid!! Much appreciated.
great video!
Wow, please tune my skis!
Great and elaborate info. I do have a question though: when sharpening with a file and file guide do you work the edge from tip to tail on both sides?
When learning this skill my mentor always stressed how important it is to work from tip to tail while sharpening, and I don't understand why seeing that you leave a smooth finish if you do it correctly (and you polish with diamond anyway) so the direction doesn't matter. Furthermore, if you would stop halfway through a cut going tip to tail, the remaining burr would face forward and cause the most problems. So my thought is that if you are bad at leaving a smooth edge you should sharpen from tail to tip... or don't sharpen at all ofcourse.
I just leave the file guide set up the same for both sides, so the left side of the ski is sharpened tail to tip as I aim for a smooth finish anyway. What are your thoughts on sharpening direction?
You tune with your base facing your core, therefore we must tune both ways.
I’ve been racing Nordic and waxing my own skis for 47 years but leave tuning of my alpine skis to the shop. I want to start tuning my own alpine skis. The issue that has scared me from tuning alpine skis is edge construction, bevel,etc. is there a diagram anywhere that describes edge angle ? Also, how can ski edges take frequent sharpening without eventually wear down to nothing? Stupid questions but they have caused apprehension in tackling my own tuning. Thanks
It’s scares most actually….but I’ve yet to meet anyone who has started and say they wish they hadn’t. It’s literally transformative to one’s experience on snow. Sure you need to learn it however the learning curve is extremely fast. Contact and we can help you out. And yes tuning the edges makes them thinner however for most skiers the ski wears out long before the edge wears out.
Is your intro kit enough to successfully complete all the steps seen here, or does one have to pony up for a lot more kit? I’m a decent skier and want to take my skiing to the next level. I’m a lift operator at Park City, so we get pretty good deals for tunes at a great local shop, but something tells me it can’t touch the eventual knowledge of managing one’s own ski tunes. That said, it’s tough to know if investing all the money it takes to get great gear like you make would be worth it for a noob like me. Either way I appreciate all the work you put into your videos!
The "How To Tune YOUR Skis' video uses only the tools found in our INTRO Tuning Kit the first 3 steps of the video and for Step 4 we use the items found in the 'BASIC Waxing Kit'. If you had these two kit + a set of vices you have everything you need to follow the steps of this video.
@@sidecuttuning awesome, thanks for the response!
Great video. Looking forward to try some of you products. Especially the diamond disk. Could you, either here on in a future video run through the stones one can use. I am unsure how/why the Arkansas stone is used.
Refer to this link Kenneth: www.sidecut.com/category/ski-tuning-diamond-stones.html
To help you choose which discs you need:
120 & 200 grits are used for sharpening, removing burrs and for hardened edges. Great for getting your edges back to the angle your desire quickly without using a file.
400 grit is used for sharpening and polishing. A great disc/stone to carry in your pocket on the mountain also!
600 grit is used for fine polishing.
1000 grit is used when you desire an extra high polish and are concerned about hundredths of a second or really care about how the edges perform on the hardest snow surfaces.
Tip: It's best to have at least two Diamond Discs/Stones - 1 x 120 or 200grit and 1 x your choice of 400, 600 or 1000 grit.
For best performance and extra long life all diamonds should be used with SIDECUT side-edge oil. Oil improves the polish and speed of the edges and is the best way clean them.
Hello guys, may I make a request? Could you do a vid that just goes over edge "polishing" for those of us who will let the shop do the big stuff but just want to keep edges in condition between services? Asking for...me. thanks.
Polishing is in Step#3. You can go more thorough of course progressing to finer diamonds and/or ceramic stones. We can try to create something.
Impressive. At the very least, I plan to tip my ski tech more generously.
LOL. True enough!!!
Some good info, but no mention of flattening a convex base, as that would have to be done with a metal scraper unless you happen to have a base grinder.
That is correct you could attempt this with a metal scraper, however, a better option exists. Try our cutting tool (made for this purpose) which is the opposite side of our SIDECUT True Bar: www.sidecut.com/product/TRU_BR_130MM.html
If it is a more extreme case then a grind is the best way to solve this issue and ensure the trueness of the base. Be sure to check the grind with a true bar and base bevel meter when completed.
I don't go that much in to detail when I'm tuning my skis, but I'm not racing, so I guess it doesn't matter all that much. And since a tune is only really good for one or two days I am not willing to go through this entire procedure every other day.
Georg, once your skis are tuned correctly the maintenance can be as short as just 10 minutes. You can just maintain the sharpness with a Diamond Guide & a 400 grit Diamond Disc.
Nice Video Chris, Thanks MK
Thanks Mark.
I want all of the tooling! Where where where? UK/EU Shipping???
Yes, we ship to the UK and EU countries often. PM us and we can help you out if you're interested.
Great Video. Question, when using the stone on the bottom edge, you wet the ski with a mixture of water and isopropyl alcohol. what purpose does the alcohol play? Can I use just water?
It helps to polish the steel more effectively and and keep the stones clean.
Awesome video! Quick question how to do you determine what angle you tune your base and side edge with? Is it based on what the ski manufacturer originally sets the edges at or is it more you can use what angle you prefer?
It goes by you strength, skill level and preference. Here's a link to our recommendations in a pdf chart. www.sidecut.com/ski-tuning-degree-guidelines.html
Can you guys do a snowboard video? Is it the same?
Thanks for the interest and yes the procedure is the same. We'll keep your idea on our to do list though!
@@sidecuttuning I’m in Squamish can I buy a file from you
@@ryanevans604 yes email us!
Do you have to do all this stuff to new skis??
Some come from the factory in fine tune. Most don't.
I don't even have skis but i now know how to tune them
"wipe the base clean". What if I have no base cleaner, can I use just water? Is this step critical?
If the base isn't dirty you don't need to use wax remover. A better option is to wax the base and scrape it while the wax is still liquid this method of 'hot scraping' will extract dirt from the bases.
@@sidecuttuning After this hot scraping could you consider the skis are waxed or you need to wax them one more time as usual? Thank you!
@@bebepopescu2090 Another time.
Can you pay someone to do this and how much should you pay???
Yes you certainly can. We are not able to comment on prices as the vary greatly around the world.
What does it take to become an actual ski technician?
There are a few programs/schools in a few different countries that train technicians. Many professional technicians however have honed their craft in a competitive setting on National Teams around the world where their skills are assessed by both the athlete's feedback as well as the 'timer/clock'.
@@sidecuttuning do tuning shops ever teach people who have no experience how to tune from scratch?
@@jacobadams6481 Yes some shops do. We also teach all levels at our Workshops. Take a look at our 'Tour' schedule under the 'Education' tab on our website.
Great video, amazing level of detail and professionalism. I have one question though, I'm a snowboarder :) Does this apply EXACTLY to snowboards as well OR is there any difference(s) in the process? Cheers
Bruno, firstly thanks very much! Tuning for a snowboard or a ski is the same. Let us know by email if you have any further questions. Thanks!
The only difference is you may want to buy a scraper specific to snowboards so it takes less time.
@@harkenm these days shorter scrapers (the same ones used for alpine skis) are much more commonly used. Longer scrapers 'bow' more easily and therefore may cause convexity on the base of your board = prematurely having to spend money grinding your board flat potentially.
how much more of a base bevel on the contact points?
Not clear on your question.
@@sidecuttuning you added more base bevel to the contact points compared to the rest of the base bevel. So how much more do you bevel the contact points compared to the rest of the base edge?
@@32srt32 approximately 1/4 of a degree greater than the 'body' of the ski.
@SIDECUT thank you!
Hi. Can you just remove the sidewall material with a file. Thanks
Not properly Milan. We recommend a Sidewall Remover. A quality one to eliminate chatter.
How do I get my edges to last the longest and still have a lot of material for future sharpening?
Reese you tune often to 'maintain' your skis sharpness instead of leaving long periods between tunes. This way you take minimal edge off each time but more importantly you reap the benefits of tuned geared every time you're out there = more fun.
Your skis will lose their responsiveness (rebound energy) well before you run out of sidewall even if you sharpen them every outing.
After watching this I regret buying the DIV tune kit on amazon. Cause tuning seems un DIY-nable.
Send us an email we love to help you out!
I suggest we use leather work gloves.
I've seen a ski man accidentally slice his wrist.
True! Cut protective gloves are essential.
I agree my dad has sliced is thumb and had to 12 stitches when he wasn’t careful and not using gloves
And when you are finished the season y over😂
Tuning a new pair of skis takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours due to set up shown in the video. After that daily ski day maintenance can be done in in 15mins.
Wtf this is severe overkill unless you are some kind of super competitive racer. Most skis are perfect out of the wrapper.
Thanks for your FB! Skis come with a very average tune (out of the wrapper) typically and need to be 'set up' based on ones skill level, strength and the type of ski/skiing you're doing. We believe getting the utmost FUN and PERFORMANCE out of your skis is the goal and tuning is an easy and major contributor to achieving both of these. Give tuning a test...you may never want to ski again without proper tuning.
Wait, wait, wait. This is not a ski tuning video for anyone trying to tune at home. This guy is using tools that are better than 90% of shops out there. This is high quality race prep. This is not for a diy skier.
Thanks for the feedback. This video is intended for those at home 😊 and anyone who wants a safer more enjoyable experience on-snow. Ski tuning is directly related to improving your skills on-snow and as coaches we want to demystify tuning for people because it's actually incredibly easy with the correct tools and information. Yes, one could say these are the basic steps for a 'race prep' however they are the exact steps done for a recreational weekend skier (minus a few nuances) whose goal is to have more fun and improve their turns. Our sport is so costly that in our opinion most are missing out on SO much when you don't tune your gear. We're here to give anyone interested the confidence and knowledge to DIY. And yes, you're right it can be very tricky to find really knowledgeable ski shops that tune well. However, that has changed a lot over the past few years and if you search a little you can find shops that do really great work. All the best!
Read your reply and re watched your video. I understand you want to sell your product, which looks on point. However you're misleading the viewer with the title. This is not diy unless you have some experience.
Do you offer clinics on tunning? If so I'd like to swing by and check out your product.
How have I never heard of you!?! Stuck in the basement inhaling to much ptex smoke I guess. Just checked out your website and I wish the boss would have let me go to SIA back when it was legit. I'm going to still stick by my comments though. Peace
Thanks for the FB. Our four step system has helped many. Yes, we offer tuning workshops for all abilities. In fact, our 'model' has always been based around 'free education'. It's our belief that skiing and boarding are both way more fun when your gear is tuned correctly. PM us if you're interested in knowing more about us and/or our products. It's much easier to discuss on the phone or in-person. @@grujenkins
chiadichickidichang
Danke Kiwi!!