Hope you enjoyed this one. Will be back to putting the C18 back together in the next one. If you wanted to check out the Monaco Seal Installer, use this link: monacotool.com/products/10050?.10050&B10050&.ape.10050 Thanks for watching.
Hey Ape, I usually give the deforming tool a good 1/2-3/4 force smack with a 8oz hammer when it is in line with the wear ring. it makes the deformation deep enough to widen it in about 3 or 4 deformations usually
I was in visit to Jordan 🇯🇴 in the Middle East when I visit a mechanic school for foreign engine rebuild , 😂 I laughed my axx off when I saw them using some of your vlogs to educate their student …and I told the instructor that guy is one of the best …he say if he was not I wouldn’t use his information in my classes 😂 and I asked him about your knowledge and he said literally you’re one of the Best caterpillar he watch on TH-cam and he asked me to not mention anything about your vid in his class 😂😂😂
I have heard of many instructors using my videos in their classes, which is great in my opinion. Even Cat training classes have used them. Thanks for the comment.
Im a field tech for one of the largest Cat dealers in the nation. I have better luck with s slide hammer than the tool you use. I have to replace a front crank seal on a C27 tomorrow. Love your videos
I also prefer using a small slide hammer. I made a small slide hammer using a chunk of tungsten as the slide hammer weight. Additionally I buy replacement tips for my seal puller from my Snap-on man and silver solder them to the piece of drill rod that I use as part of my slide hammer. Lastly I like using a center drill to drill holes in a seal. What I found works the best for dealing with the wear ring is an engraving chisel that I have spent a little time re-profiling on a grinder. Additionally I have found using a small engravers hammer.
I’m not going to lie to you, I’m just glad that you are doing this & not me. I drove the truck, I didn’t work on it, I hired somebody that knew what he was doing. Thank you Sir
When Cummins came out with the flat nose cranks mid 70's, I built a seal removal tool. I used sharpened roller needles out of a u joint, drilled hole in center of a 7/16 cap screw. Used a 4" piece of 1x 1/4 angle, drilled hole for dampener, drilled and taped 7/16 sae then cut the vertical angle down allowing the inside radius to stay, thus preventing the drilled side from bending. there was very little room on those cab overs. So I would bolt the tool to the crank then tighten the bolt which punctured the seal with the sharp needle bearing. Then screwed in a hex headed sheet metal screw, used the angled side cutters to pry out seal. I also built an installed. No wear sleeves then. I could do a seal job fast.
I learned in the Air Force no matter how "easy" any job was fixing an aircraft, as soon as I tried to show a trainee how easy it was, Murphy's law was applied in force and it took three times as long.
@@AdeptApe that picture is a burned up GFI receptacle I removed from a locker room in a firehouse that they had a SPACE HEATER plugged into. It doesn’t get much better than that‼️LOL
Im a machine tech at a Tx Cat dealer I just did that seal on a 3408. and a c15 in two different older dozers. Wish I would have saw this video as the seals are now being updated to no flange. Those seal were a pain in the butt, I will be buying a pair of pliers like those, Great tip
I work at foley Cat , yes they say install dry, but ive seen a couple techs use a little bit of bearing mount on the outside seal surface. They say they do that because it never leaks
Great video as usual! I have a slide hammer attachment that is basely a hook I also have the pick style with the hammer as you use. I am not a fan of wear sleeves but you do a great job i know they serve a purpose have a pair of vice grips that i have modified to work with vice grips that makes quick work of sleeve I refer to them as "tools of mass destruction" Keep up the great work
Enjoy your videos thanks anyway I have a pair of 1987 8.2Ts yep fuel pinchers! in a small sport fish honestly super reliable and sound great if you wanna here them let me know.obviously they have some issues but once they get going the run all day and night
I did the front seal on my '02 Dodge Cummins. Fairly straightforward job. The biggest PITA was removing/replacing everything in the way of getting close to it. Rear seal will have to wait until I replace the clutch.
I just did the front seal too in my 95 cummins. The seal kept moving around in the timing cover so i had buy a new timing cover. There was a really bad groove in the crankshaft from the old seal so i had to install a wear sleeve and buy the wear sleeve installer. Real fun job!!!!
Good Jobbin' Josh,,,wonder how many of these so called, truck repair shop say of yes we can rebuild your diesel engine and do it correctly like Josh does.
Easier way istall a self taper screw use a claw hammer to remove or a slide hammer. Crank sleeves use a chisle or proper tool, like he showed, butjust keep using tool multiple times until it spins, if you cant move by hand do a couple more times!( i I've never used any pliers to pull out the sleeve 😂)
For future reference , when pulling the wear ring , work all the way around . Pulling only on the bottom like you did basically wedges it on and makes it harder to get off . If you work all the way around , it keeps it close to the same plane as the crank end so it doesn't have as much pressure on it .
I got in the habit of using retaining compound after I replaced a seal and had oil leaking out from between the crank and wear sleeve. Before you ask it was an OEM seal from Cat and there was no damage to the crank.
Enjoy your evening with all your family around you. Adept Ape Very helpful information tutorial video loved it 👍 SHARP-WITTED,Adept Ape From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 20:54PM Good Evening
I’m a cat tech at Yancey cat working on trucks pretty much do it the same why but I’ll use a small pry bar usually a screw drive and get the lip bent out so I can grab it with a pair of vice grips and just roll it out in between the bolt holes I have been told if you do it on a bolt hole you can oval the hole or so I was told when I was an apprentice so I never really questioned it
Some times people will put red lock tight when mounting the sleeve, I use the blue lock tight and have never had a problem! Have put a thin sheet metal between the tool and the ring to give a little tighter fit for the tool, so it distorts the sleeve a little more.
The differences is the rear seal, is that in a dry housing the seal is grooved to pull the oil back into the engine as the crank shaft turns. On the wet housing it is a double lip seal, one pulling oil toward the engine and the other pulling oil back toward the rear housing area.
I have to admit, I prefer the cummins seal removal tools. It's a cup with 6 self tappers, then a center pusher bolt. Works great especially in tight quarters. Don't know if it would work on a cat, since I no longer work on cat stuff.
@AdeptApe The reason I no longer work on cat is because I retired from mechanics and became an owner operator. And since cat is no longer in the truck business, means I bought a cummins. Detroit is not an option for me.
Hey man I’ve got a quick question. I’m looking at a 26 foot box truck with a C7 cat in it. 2004 model truck. Is there any red flags or common things I should be worried about? I’ve only dealt with them a few times so I don’t know if they’re a good engine or not.
Hi Josh could u help with advice....removing front timing cover on 3406b. There is a small o ring /seal on inside of cover for oil passage way. Can't find part number any where any help b appreciated.
To make it easier to get the tool off, modify it by drilling and tapping two hole for 3/8 16 bolt threads180 apart, then you can put in two bolts to help you wiggle it out! do not have to hit it.
Hey how do you fell about running a Nitrite free antifreeze? It says that it's good for 750,000 miles and works in these engines. Prestone Command Heavy Duty Nitrite Free Extended Life Concentrate Antifreeze
I have a diesel question. I bought an 18 ram 3500 with a 6.7. My front main started leaking at 106k miles. In 45 days, I lose 2qts of oil. My question is, should i go ahead and put a wear sleeve on it? People say it should be done if it's over 200k. But I'm nowhere near that. It's not leaking bad enough so I'm going to wait till winter when work is slower
I like the tool/pliers to remove the lip style wear ring. Do you have a part number for it? The rear wear ring goes in deeper than the front, thus front and rear installer. As the flywheel is flush with the crankshaft and it needs extra clearance so the two do not come in contact with each other. The front pulley is tapered near the crankshaft thus it clears the wear ring. On your driver front and rear. You can drill and tap two 1/2 NC holes. So if the driver sticks. You can use jack bolts and get the darn thing off.
you should really give him the update number for the rocker shaft bolt update, have pointed it out numerous times, but he listens to you, and the cut in the rear for oil leaks. forget which ones for the cut at the air compressors. this one has all 12 point bolts in it, oh well not my engine.
@@youtubeisawesome2487 Do not know of updated bolts for non-compression brake engines. The PAC Brake cannot use the six point bolt, only Jacobs. So what is the updated bolt?
I've tried so many methods to get stubborn seals out of Paccars, Cummins and Cat engines. I saw my buddy use a slide hammer and get one out in literal seconds. I bought one, use a self tapping screw, the vice grip attachment and the slide hammer and get even the most seized rusted seals out in less than a minute! Never went back to the other methods. Every tech I train I show them the OEM method and on their next main seal job I use my slide hammer lol Yes I'm aware it may take more time to take the cooling package out but I make the time back with ease of access
I just found out that Monaco makes a tool that bolts onto the crank and uses a few self tappers and then uses forcing screws to pull the seal out, definitely gotta try that one.
The wear ring cutters are dull, they're bending the ring or just not cutting deep enough to create enough space to loosen the ring. I also would have put a small dowel under the Knipex, keeping the Knipex oriented in a standard position, not inverted.
Someone sent me a picture of one of the "cracks" and it just looks like a casting seem and some oil/silicone there on the front structure. Didn't see anything else while working on it.
Crazy how many people see casting flaws and say it's a crack.. Had so many people say the same thing to me about my trans and they ALL have the same casting flaw..
Correct, the seal is all once piece when its installed. Its a press fit on the inner and outer bore, with the soft sealing element in the middle, so just rhe nature of the thing it will always seperate into an inner and outer component (unless its very broken) its a better system than a plain lip seal because it doesnt cause a wear groove on anything that isnt part of the seal itself.
the front one he pulled out is a obsolete part, you can no longer buy that seal, all of the new ones are unitized and a royal pain to remove just like the rear one in this video
Ya I usually take out the front seal by bending the outer metal with a big heel bar and give it a little tap with a chisel and pray it out the the same tool he used for the rear
Instead of fighting with the ware sleeve with the pliers, why didn't you run the distortion tool a few more times and save yourself playing the plier wiggle game?
@AdeptApe but if you did a few more times do you thing it would have helped any? I use a tool like that for industrial pumps , some of them use a bronze sleeve for a shaft ware sleeve. kind of like those but they are red loctite on and the directions for the tool "says" 4 to 6 spots but I end up doing more like 40-60 and heat before they move.
@@AdeptApeis that wear seal tool the ones for a series 60? I tried searching it and it’s comes up for Detroit. Definitely want to add that to the truck.
Didn't know the front one is a front seal. News to me. Always referred to them as a front main and rear main seal. That guy must be special lol. 25 year plus h.e.t.
Hope you enjoyed this one. Will be back to putting the C18 back together in the next one. If you wanted to check out the Monaco Seal Installer, use this link: monacotool.com/products/10050?.10050&B10050&.ape.10050
Thanks for watching.
Your gonna cringe when you hear how I've gone about doing it torchwith low heat real fast
Hey Ape, I usually give the deforming tool a good 1/2-3/4 force smack with a 8oz hammer when it is in line with the wear ring. it makes the deformation deep enough to widen it in about 3 or 4 deformations usually
I was in visit to Jordan 🇯🇴 in the Middle East when I visit a mechanic school for foreign engine rebuild , 😂 I laughed my axx off when I saw them using some of your vlogs to educate their student …and I told the instructor that guy is one of the best …he say if he was not I wouldn’t use his information in my classes 😂 and I asked him about your knowledge and he said literally you’re one of the Best caterpillar he watch on TH-cam and he asked me to not mention anything about your vid in his class 😂😂😂
I have heard of many instructors using my videos in their classes, which is great in my opinion. Even Cat training classes have used them. Thanks for the comment.
Josh You are really blessing to Us God bless you.
Im a field tech for one of the largest Cat dealers in the nation. I have better luck with s slide hammer than the tool you use. I have to replace a front crank seal on a C27 tomorrow. Love your videos
I replaced one on a d10t2 in a jobsite last week. The tool worked for me. The crank pully is stupid heavy
I also prefer using a small slide hammer. I made a small slide hammer using a chunk of tungsten as the slide hammer weight. Additionally I buy replacement tips for my seal puller from my Snap-on man and silver solder them to the piece of drill rod that I use as part of my slide hammer. Lastly I like using a center drill to drill holes in a seal.
What I found works the best for dealing with the wear ring is an engraving chisel that I have spent a little time re-profiling on a grinder. Additionally I have found using a small engravers hammer.
slid hammer does not work on those flange type seals as the flange id the wear seal and the seal sit behind the flange
I’m not going to lie to you, I’m just glad that you are doing this & not me.
I drove the truck, I didn’t work on it, I hired somebody that knew what he was doing.
Thank you Sir
When Cummins came out with the flat nose cranks mid 70's, I built a seal removal tool. I used sharpened roller needles out of a u joint, drilled hole in center of a 7/16 cap screw. Used a 4" piece of 1x 1/4 angle, drilled hole for dampener, drilled and taped 7/16 sae then cut the vertical angle down allowing the inside radius to stay, thus preventing the drilled side from bending. there was very little room on those cab overs. So I would bolt the tool to the crank then tighten the bolt which punctured the seal with the sharp needle bearing. Then screwed in a hex headed sheet metal screw, used the angled side cutters to pry out seal.
I also built an installed. No wear sleeves then. I could do a seal job fast.
Love that you have gone out on your own and the videos are so much better
You are a true master mechanic Josh. Along with ZK master tech and the king of obsolete 47 you guys will tear into anything and do a 110% repair job🤘
Dont forget KT3406E
Knipex pliers are the real deal
I learned in the Air Force no matter how "easy" any job was fixing an aircraft, as soon as I tried to show a trainee how easy it was, Murphy's law was applied in force and it took three times as long.
"Murphy" was an OPTIMIST.
Josh, I’m a retired electrician but I really enjoy watching you work‼️👍
I guess that makes sense with your profile pic and name. Glad you like the videos.
@@AdeptApe that picture is a burned up GFI receptacle I removed from a locker room in a firehouse that they had a SPACE HEATER plugged into. It doesn’t get much better than that‼️LOL
@@unwired1281that is just wild 😭😭😭😭😭🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
Im a machine tech at a Tx Cat dealer I just did that seal on a 3408. and a c15 in two different older dozers. Wish I would have saw this video as the seals are now being updated to no flange. Those seal were a pain in the butt, I will be buying a pair of pliers like those, Great tip
I work at foley Cat , yes they say install dry, but ive seen a couple techs use a little bit of bearing mount on the outside seal surface. They say they do that because it never leaks
Great video as usual! I have a slide hammer attachment that is basely a hook I also have the pick style with the hammer as you use. I am not a fan of wear sleeves but you do a great job i know they serve a purpose have a pair of vice grips that i have modified to work with vice grips that makes quick work of sleeve I refer to them as "tools of mass destruction" Keep up the great work
Enjoy your videos thanks anyway I have a pair of 1987 8.2Ts yep fuel pinchers! in a small sport fish honestly super reliable and sound great if you wanna here them let me know.obviously they have some issues but once they get going the run all day and night
Nobody to work on them by me Long Island
I did the front seal on my '02 Dodge Cummins. Fairly straightforward job. The biggest PITA was removing/replacing everything in the way of getting close to it. Rear seal will have to wait until I replace the clutch.
I just did the front seal too in my 95 cummins. The seal kept moving around in the timing cover so i had buy a new timing cover. There was a really bad groove in the crankshaft from the old seal so i had to install a wear sleeve and buy the wear sleeve installer. Real fun job!!!!
Good Jobbin' Josh,,,wonder how many of these so called, truck repair shop say of yes we can rebuild your diesel engine and do it correctly like Josh does.
Listening with earphones at 9:55 surprised me for a moment! The stereo effect on the bee's flight is very strong
Ive always used a map gas torch to heat the inner sleeve to get them to come off. The heat also distorts the ring and breaks the sealant free.
Well done I learned something new thanks josh🤙🏽
Make yourself up a vice grips with a slide hammer welded onto the adjuster bolt on the back for pulling on things like that wear ring 👍
Josh it is good to see you include the front seal removal, bloopers segment. 😂
Easier way istall a self taper screw use a claw hammer to remove or a slide hammer. Crank sleeves use a chisle or proper tool, like he showed, butjust keep using tool multiple times until it spins, if you cant move by hand do a couple more times!( i I've never used any pliers to pull out the sleeve 😂)
For future reference , when pulling the wear ring , work all the way around . Pulling only on the bottom like you did basically wedges it on and makes it harder to get off . If you work all the way around , it keeps it close to the same plane as the crank end so it doesn't have as much pressure on it .
Big facts, came to comments for that
It's like pressed sleeves, if they're not dead square, they're not going in
I learned the hard way, if the engine is out finish tearing it down.
Have been wanting to see a indepth vid on seals getting ready to do mine .and well spot on timing funny how the universe works...great vid.
That's some heavy duty seal work🤘
Love your videos. It's relaxing to watch.
The green on the inside of that speedy sleeve/wear ring is loktite seal retaining compound #638...someone didn't want it to come off easily ;)
I got in the habit of using retaining compound after I replaced a seal and had oil leaking out from between the crank and wear sleeve. Before you ask it was an OEM seal from Cat and there was no damage to the crank.
Bought those pliers over 30 years ago to squeeze solid rivets at TWA.
Yeah, that’s always the best choice. Josh get a bigger hammer.🤣🤣🤣 good job brother thanks for sharing👍👍👍
Enjoy your evening with all your family around you. Adept Ape
Very helpful information tutorial video loved it
👍
SHARP-WITTED,Adept Ape
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 20:54PM Good Evening
Thank you Nick, hope you enjoyed this one.
Josh, love your dys videos.
Thank you😊
I’m a cat tech at Yancey cat working on trucks pretty much do it the same why but I’ll use a small pry bar usually a screw drive and get the lip bent out so I can grab it with a pair of vice grips and just roll it out in between the bolt holes I have been told if you do it on a bolt hole you can oval the hole or so I was told when I was an apprentice so I never really questioned it
Some times people will put red lock tight when mounting the sleeve, I use the blue lock tight and have never had a problem! Have put a thin sheet metal between the tool and the ring to give a little tighter fit for the tool, so it distorts the sleeve a little more.
i was trained to use bearing mount
Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸
Turning out to be a great series Josh. Lots of helpful tips. 👍👊💪👍🔧🔩
You know that if you would turn off the camera the wear ring would have fell right out
This is nearly 100% what would have happened.
I think your knife/wedge must be worn usually after 3-4 it comes right off
The differences is the rear seal, is that in a dry housing the seal is grooved to pull the oil back into the engine as the crank shaft turns. On the wet housing it is a double lip seal, one pulling oil toward the engine and the other pulling oil back toward the rear housing area.
Excellent technical video
Nice new tools. 😍
Always interesting videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
Drill and tap the metal you hit with the hammer for a slide hammer. Much easier.
I work at Caterpillar as a repair technician and that front seal always gives me headaches 😂
Murphys Law strikes again!!
"Yes, hit the very expensive allignment tool with a hammer."
Yeah. My family bought that book, and didnt even need to read it.
❤❤❤❤
What people don't treat the shop tools as if they were their own. I would definitely use an impact on the shop tooling.
six inch lady foot from Snap On gets behind that wear sleeve easily and will ease them out.
Only had 1 question Josh. How did you hold the crank with the pistons out when installing the rear main seal. Thank you
Good Video
I have to admit, I prefer the cummins seal removal tools. It's a cup with 6 self tappers, then a center pusher bolt. Works great especially in tight quarters. Don't know if it would work on a cat, since I no longer work on cat stuff.
Disgusting! 🤮🤮🤮 Well that sounds better, maybe it would be a good idea for something to make 😉
@AdeptApe The reason I no longer work on cat is because I retired from mechanics and became an owner operator. And since cat is no longer in the truck business, means I bought a cummins. Detroit is not an option for me.
Hey man I’ve got a quick question. I’m looking at a 26 foot box truck with a C7 cat in it. 2004 model truck. Is there any red flags or common things I should be worried about? I’ve only dealt with them a few times so I don’t know if they’re a good engine or not.
Hi Josh could u help with advice....removing front timing cover on 3406b. There is a small o ring /seal on inside of cover for oil passage way. Can't find part number any where any help b appreciated.
The four most used torque values are: Snug, Tight, Real tight and Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.
"manual says this will torque to 90 ooga boogas plus 60 degrees of turn"
🤣🤣
And a fifth, tight as you can plus another full turn!
Addendum torque spec: "Mofo". Ymmv.
To make it easier to get the tool off, modify it by drilling and tapping two hole for 3/8 16 bolt threads180 apart, then you can put in two bolts to help you wiggle it out! do not have to hit it.
Been there done that on a lot of cats and brake savers
Mine just went out yesterday i am traveling to indiana, where are you located?
My experience self tapers are useless, grease on the drill can help collect the swarf if you are worried about it. I like the special tools.
Hey how do you fell about running a Nitrite free antifreeze? It says that it's good for 750,000 miles and works in these engines. Prestone Command Heavy Duty Nitrite Free Extended Life Concentrate Antifreeze
I have a diesel question. I bought an 18 ram 3500 with a 6.7. My front main started leaking at 106k miles. In 45 days, I lose 2qts of oil. My question is, should i go ahead and put a wear sleeve on it? People say it should be done if it's over 200k. But I'm nowhere near that. It's not leaking bad enough so I'm going to wait till winter when work is slower
That 2 piece rear crank seal is called a unitized seal and the other style of crank seal is a lip seal.
Hammer marks, because nobody has a rubber mallet anymore. 😂😂😂
😎👍
were do you get the distorting tool for wear ring cant seem to find one
Josh, is it possible because the crank was rotating with the distorter, that it wasn't scoring the ring enough?
I missed something . Is the new wear ring part of the new seal assembly so it all presses in together?
Yes it is.
I like the tool/pliers to remove the lip style wear ring. Do you have a part number for it?
The rear wear ring goes in deeper than the front, thus front and rear installer. As the flywheel is flush with the crankshaft and it needs extra clearance so the two do not come in contact with each other. The front pulley is tapered near the crankshaft thus it clears the wear ring. On your driver front and rear. You can drill and tap two 1/2 NC holes. So if the driver sticks. You can use jack bolts and get the darn thing off.
you should really give him the update number for the rocker shaft bolt update, have pointed it out numerous times, but he listens to you, and the cut in the rear for oil leaks. forget which ones for the cut at the air compressors. this one has all 12 point bolts in it, oh well not my engine.
@@youtubeisawesome2487 Do not know of updated bolts for non-compression brake engines. The PAC Brake cannot use the six point bolt, only Jacobs. So what is the updated bolt?
Hello John.
I have a set of installer tools but they are not labeled which tool is which. which seal does the installer with the tallest lip on it install?
I've tried so many methods to get stubborn seals out of Paccars, Cummins and Cat engines.
I saw my buddy use a slide hammer and get one out in literal seconds.
I bought one, use a self tapping screw, the vice grip attachment and the slide hammer and get even the most seized rusted seals out in less than a minute! Never went back to the other methods. Every tech I train I show them the OEM method and on their next main seal job I use my slide hammer lol
Yes I'm aware it may take more time to take the cooling package out but I make the time back with ease of access
I just found out that Monaco makes a tool that bolts onto the crank and uses a few self tappers and then uses forcing screws to pull the seal out, definitely gotta try that one.
🤘😸
Put a little grease on the tip of the drill
Maybe it doesn't distort as well if the crank can rotate? Just a thought from someone who has never changed aain seal 😂
It is possible, usually the crank stays put.
Could blow with hot air from a small nozzle electric or gas torch and expand that wear ring
The wear ring cutters are dull, they're bending the ring or just not cutting deep enough to create enough space to loosen the ring.
I also would have put a small dowel under the Knipex, keeping the Knipex oriented in a standard position, not inverted.
Main seals work great, unless they are leaking, then they don't 🤣
It would be nice if that sale puller had a slide hammer on it
What’s the pn for that seal puller
Hope you saw the comments in the last C18 video. There are cracks in the block.
Someone sent me a picture of one of the "cracks" and it just looks like a casting seem and some oil/silicone there on the front structure. Didn't see anything else while working on it.
Crazy how many people see casting flaws and say it's a crack.. Had so many people say the same thing to me about my trans and they ALL have the same casting flaw..
@@CPSteveMiller If you x-ray ever part, you would not put one on. Imperfections are in EVERYTHING.
@@CPSteveMiller It sure looked like a crack to me, i guess you cant be sure unless you see it in person and not behind a screen.
On the front, the main seal came off in two parts, but it goes on as one part?
Correct, the seal is all once piece when its installed. Its a press fit on the inner and outer bore, with the soft sealing element in the middle, so just rhe nature of the thing it will always seperate into an inner and outer component (unless its very broken) its a better system than a plain lip seal because it doesnt cause a wear groove on anything that isnt part of the seal itself.
@@rotorhead5000 Thanks
the front one he pulled out is a obsolete part, you can no longer buy that seal, all of the new ones are unitized and a royal pain to remove just like the rear one in this video
It’s not a wood chipper it’s a grinder it makes mulch
Same difference
I like llama sreaming!
Small sharp chisel for the front wearing would be way faster
Ya I usually take out the front seal by bending the outer metal with a big heel bar and give it a little tap with a chisel and pray it out the the same tool he used for the rear
I bet you were glad that seal wasn't in a truck
How can I send pics for the destruction of the week
That's a Perkins Marine engine
you could have twisted the pliers and peeled that ring off
Instead of fighting with the ware sleeve with the pliers, why didn't you run the distortion tool a few more times and save yourself playing the plier wiggle game?
I distorted it about 40 times before it would even move, this one was a tough one for sure.
@AdeptApe but if you did a few more times do you thing it would have helped any? I use a tool like that for industrial pumps , some of them use a bronze sleeve for a shaft ware sleeve. kind of like those but they are red loctite on and the directions for the tool "says" 4 to 6 spots but I end up doing more like 40-60 and heat before they move.
@@AdeptApeis that wear seal tool the ones for a series 60? I tried searching it and it’s comes up for Detroit. Definitely want to add that to the truck.
Some people put loctite on the crankshaft or wear ring. Can be a bear to get off.
It is a cat 🐈 engine
You cannot remove and install a "main" seal on the front, because there is only one "main" seal in the back. The front one is a front seal. 😂😂😂😂
Neat.
@@AdeptApeLove how pedantic your viewers are.
Didn't know the front one is a front seal. News to me. Always referred to them as a front main and rear main seal. That guy must be special lol.
25 year plus h.e.t.
I know you're a diesel guy but what do you recommend for irrigation engines? Diesel or gas?
I don't understand how the constant spinning on these seals doesn't wear them out and leak in like 1 hour? Isn't it just rubber against metal?
It is surprising that they last as long as they do. Kind of like piston rings, seems like they would wear out fast as well.