I grew up on John Deeres but I have a couple of Olivers. The first one is an Oliver Hart Parr 70 Row Crop. I basically out bid the scrapper for it but I think it's got potential. The other is a Super 77 diesel. This tractor had set for ten years. When I pull the dipstick it was over full an very thin. Fuel wàs leaking down from the injector pump into the crank case so I had it rebuilt. Changed all the fluids. I ran it 50 straight on my farm generator with very little oil use. Most of which I think leaked out so I'm hopeful the engine is tight enough yet at 6723 hours on the clock. Just got the injectors back from a rebuild shop so I hope its starts better. Its probably the smoothest engine i have ever heard once its warmed up. Those were Waukesha / Oliver engines where Oliver made the castings and Waukesha did they machining and assembly. My old 70 and yours as well used a Continental. Mine has fve timing gears and yours has three.
We have mostly John Deere too. We actually bought this from a guy who was selling an unstyled B. We didn't buy the B, but he made us a deal on these Olivers. He said he'd had then for sale for weeks and no one had even called on them. He just wanted them gone... So we obliged. I'm hopeful we can get this engine running smoothly.
The Oliver 70 engine runs really smooth. My family owns a 70 standard that was my Grandpa’s 1st tractor. I rescued it from the scape yard. It had been parked around 20 years when it quit running in the late 50s or early 60s. I took it into the Vo-ag shop my senior year of high school in 1980. It was amazing that the engine wasn’t stuck. There wasn’t anything covering the exhaust, but the muffler was all rusted out preventing water from running into the engine. I found that the governor had failed throwing one of the weights into the camshaft gear breaking it off. I was able to get parts from a neighbor that had a 70 row crop that had a cracked block. I was able to get it running and and painted. My Grandpa was able to see it running again a few months before he passed away. We actually used it a little around the farm, feeding cattle and raking hay.
Yes, we have dune friends that are "Oliver Guys" and you're right, they run smoothly. That's cool about your Granddad's standard. I'm excited to get out standard out together.
I will be posting another video on this 70 in a week or two. There is still an issue with the carburetor that I can't figure out. I really want ours to idle nice and smooth. That's my favorite thing about the 6 cylinder Olivers
I bought a parts tractor ... but got it running and now I have two tractors! They don't make any more of those old machines and we're going to need all we can get to keep the food security up. Get it running with your other tractor and sell this or give to a young kid farmer getting started if nothing else.
Yes it is! I don't think anyone has ever touched inside that valve cover since it left the factory. That paint is original, and it still looked good too!
That's a dandy setup. You get the miss out of it and it'll run as smooth as silk I bet. Have plenty of power too with that 6! IK always just degrease with gasoline. It'll cut anything and I quit smoking YEARS ago.@@jonelsonster
It's always worked good for me with anything petroleum based and a lot that wasn't. I'm glad Pop is able and more than willing to get in on all the projects. Lots of knowledge there to be had, used and passed down. You're no dummy by a long shot yourself!@@jonelsonster
If no one else has commented on the Zenith carburetor that you didn't use on this Oliver; it is identical to the one on my Farmall B. Mine has a hairline crack in the exact same place, everyone says threat tape causes them to crack and you don't use it on those threads. JB weld slowed the leak but not a perfect fix, the thread tape also slows the leak; one of those six of this or half a dozen of that deals. Good work do what works for you.
Some where in the vid you said "Oliver engine", I believe all Oliver's of that vintage used ether Continental or Wakashaw engines. Some one correct me if I'm wrong, please I learned to drive on an 88, slow road tractor but worked well, it was a chopper wagon hauler back in the early to mid 70's, that and pulled a New Idea manure spreader in winter, spent a lot of time behind that "heat houser"
Hi love your channel I got Oliver 70 tractor idk year it is I’m got seat off next step is get hood off screws got soak in penratering oil got marble mystery oil soaked engine
Very cool. I worked on our Oliver last week. I still have some fuel/carb issues I need to get sorted out. But I really like the Oliver 70.a very cool old tractor.
Excellent video Jolenstar :) also for Sparkplugs use Champion ones platinum type , wires set used High Suppression type , a new cap also rotor replacement be wise to do also plus points should be thin paper gap to and Sparkplugs foul should be 0.25 gap to engine oil should be 10w30 engine oil no synthetic type too! Use no synthetic engine oil filter with correct thread center too plus oil ring too! Fuel Filter be 1950 John Deere A row crop type in Rubber O ring plus filter cartilage ! Also when get motor running very good use 89 octane gas with 5% Ethonal or 90 octane gas with no Ethonal % run better low % 5 or no % Ethonal on old tractor of gas motor plus get Grey bottle of STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner or what find in carb cleaner add in fuel tank also add 1 gallon of Desiel fuel help clean up and lube up head ! May smoked bit but clean up and help from not seized up to ! RPM on those gas motor be 550 to 650 RPM on Low if need adjustment idle screw to plus if tractor has a RPM gauge help out ! Choke cable replacement is like pus lawn mowers or a tractor or Rotteiller throttle cable for low to high idles ! Also when start old gas tractor or combine with gas motor want 1/4 throttle on and choke on till motor start then push choke to 1/2 or engine running smoothly to off all way in ! Also let engine warm for 15 mins tap throttle bit more to close 1/2 way on ! That how learn from my late dad & late Uncle plus older elders to taught me and help learn starts up old engines in gas and desiel motors!
Good recommendations! I actually have a magneto for an Oliver 70 that I want to try out. I've tested it on my bench tester and it seems to run well. So I'll throw it on this and see how it does.
now the 🚜 tractor 🚜 😊 runs it still needs a tune 🎶 😊 up 1 new points and condenser 2 new rotor button 3 new new distributor cap copper if U can 4 new sparkplugs soild copper sparkplug wires that other carb needs 2 welded up where it is bad and the bad seal the only thing 2 do is get a O ring kit and match it up and use it and the carb that the screw is tight U should spray and let it soak and try it again W a pair of vice grips on a screw driver or a pipe wrench on a screw driver or U mighy have 2 heat it 2 get it 2 move its alot closer 2 running than what it was 😊😊 OMG 2 24 2O24
I actually have a magneto from a 70 that I might try using. I did a video of it years ago and have been waiting to try it out. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/8Ty5io7YJS0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZHn919vzlWzE-KtE
I know what an OLIVER sounds like and it is not that ! 😳 Sounds like you should shoot it and play taps . You got a lot of rebuilding to do. Another thing is the sediment bowel goes on the bottom of the gas tank above carburetor level !!!
Yes, I know it isn't running smoothly. This is a starting point. I was actually happy with how it was running. Like I said, next step is ignition system tuning. I think that should fix a lot. And I'm pretty sure this is the factory location of the sediment bowl. There is a factory bracket and mounting holes. I also looked at pictures of other 70s just now and they also have the sentiment bowl in the same location. Having the sediment bowl below the carburetor doesn't matter as long as the fuel tank is higher than the carb.
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Success! Always a good feeling when it runs and looks better each day. Looking forward to seeing you drive it around the yard. 👍
That's the plan!
I grew up on John Deeres but I have a couple of Olivers. The first one is an Oliver Hart Parr 70 Row Crop. I basically out bid the scrapper for it but I think it's got potential. The other is a Super 77 diesel. This tractor had set for ten years. When I pull the dipstick it was over full an very thin. Fuel wàs leaking down from the injector pump into the crank case so I had it rebuilt. Changed all the fluids. I ran it 50 straight on my farm generator with very little oil use. Most of which I think leaked out so I'm hopeful the engine is tight enough yet at 6723 hours on the clock. Just got the injectors back from a rebuild shop so I hope its starts better. Its probably the smoothest engine i have ever heard once its warmed up. Those were Waukesha / Oliver engines where Oliver made the castings and Waukesha did they machining and assembly. My old 70 and yours as well used a Continental. Mine has fve timing gears and yours has three.
We have mostly John Deere too. We actually bought this from a guy who was selling an unstyled B. We didn't buy the B, but he made us a deal on these Olivers. He said he'd had then for sale for weeks and no one had even called on them. He just wanted them gone... So we obliged. I'm hopeful we can get this engine running smoothly.
That's good to see it start .definitely something to work with .im glad you guys are restoring the old tractors .great job.👍
Thanks! Hopefully we can get this one running smoothly again and go have some fun with it!
I've got the 88 my grandpa farmed with, they really are a nice smooth running tractor. Thanks for the video, keep up the good work!!
Thank you very much sir! Getting it to run is, in my mind, the first step. Now it's just tuning... Lots and lots of tuning 😂
Those Olivers are tough old tractors. Our 88s never let us down.
I'm happy with this one. Once I got fuel to it, it started right up. Now I just need to get spark going to all the right places! 😂
The Oliver 70 engine runs really smooth. My family owns a 70 standard that was my Grandpa’s 1st tractor. I rescued it from the scape yard. It had been parked around 20 years when it quit running in the late 50s or early 60s. I took it into the Vo-ag shop my senior year of high school in 1980. It was amazing that the engine wasn’t stuck. There wasn’t anything covering the exhaust, but the muffler was all rusted out preventing water from running into the engine. I found that the governor had failed throwing one of the weights into the camshaft gear breaking it off. I was able to get parts from a neighbor that had a 70 row crop that had a cracked block. I was able to get it running and and painted. My Grandpa was able to see it running again a few months before he passed away. We actually used it a little around the farm, feeding cattle and raking hay.
Yes, we have dune friends that are "Oliver Guys" and you're right, they run smoothly. That's cool about your Granddad's standard. I'm excited to get out standard out together.
Great video , I have a couple Oliver's . I love those 70's
I will be posting another video on this 70 in a week or two. There is still an issue with the carburetor that I can't figure out. I really want ours to idle nice and smooth. That's my favorite thing about the 6 cylinder Olivers
Wonderful to see the old Oliver running. You can just tell it wants to live on and be useful. 👍🚜🇺🇸
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!
I bought a parts tractor ... but got it running and now I have two tractors! They don't make any more of those old machines and we're going to need all we can get to keep the food security up. Get it running with your other tractor and sell this or give to a young kid farmer getting started if nothing else.
We actually found a parts Oliver 70 tractor the other day... We might but that one too 😬
Oh man, the memories!
👍🏼
First things first and oily greasy dirt is a fine preservative! Blessings!
Yes it is! I don't think anyone has ever touched inside that valve cover since it left the factory. That paint is original, and it still looked good too!
That's a dandy setup. You get the miss out of it and it'll run as smooth as silk I bet. Have plenty of power too with that 6! IK always just degrease with gasoline. It'll cut anything and I quit smoking YEARS ago.@@jonelsonster
@@lewiemcneely9143 gasoline is a very good degreaser and it's cheaper than anything too... Even at $4/gallon!
It's always worked good for me with anything petroleum based and a lot that wasn't. I'm glad Pop is able and more than willing to get in on all the projects. Lots of knowledge there to be had, used and passed down. You're no dummy by a long shot yourself!@@jonelsonster
If no one else has commented on the Zenith carburetor that you didn't use on this Oliver; it is identical to the one on my Farmall B. Mine has a hairline crack in the exact same place, everyone says threat tape causes them to crack and you don't use it on those threads. JB weld slowed the leak but not a perfect fix, the thread tape also slows the leak; one of those six of this or half a dozen of that deals. Good work do what works for you.
Good to hear! I would have guessed the tapered pipe thread on the fitting plays a larger role in cracking the carb than Teflon tape.
Some where in the vid you said "Oliver engine", I believe all Oliver's of that vintage used ether Continental or Wakashaw engines. Some one correct me if I'm wrong, please
I learned to drive on an 88, slow road tractor but worked well, it was a chopper wagon hauler back in the early to mid 70's, that and pulled a New Idea manure spreader in winter, spent a lot of time behind that "heat houser"
You're probably right.
It's running and with a little tuning I think it will be just fine, tough old tractor.
Yes, hopefully we can get it running smoothly.
Hi love your channel I got Oliver 70 tractor idk year it is I’m got seat off next step is get hood off screws got soak in penratering oil got marble mystery oil soaked engine
Very cool. I worked on our Oliver last week. I still have some fuel/carb issues I need to get sorted out. But I really like the Oliver 70.a very cool old tractor.
Excellent video Jolenstar :) also for Sparkplugs use Champion ones platinum type , wires set used High Suppression type , a new cap also rotor replacement be wise to do also plus points should be thin paper gap to and Sparkplugs foul should be 0.25 gap to engine oil should be 10w30 engine oil no synthetic type too! Use no synthetic engine oil filter with correct thread center too plus oil ring too! Fuel Filter be 1950 John Deere A row crop type in Rubber O ring plus filter cartilage ! Also when get motor running very good use 89 octane gas with 5% Ethonal or 90 octane gas with no Ethonal % run better low % 5 or no % Ethonal on old tractor of gas motor plus get Grey bottle of STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner or what find in carb cleaner add in fuel tank also add 1 gallon of Desiel fuel help clean up and lube up head ! May smoked bit but clean up and help from not seized up to ! RPM on those gas motor be 550 to 650 RPM on Low if need adjustment idle screw to plus if tractor has a RPM gauge help out ! Choke cable replacement is like pus lawn mowers or a tractor or Rotteiller throttle cable for low to high idles ! Also when start old gas tractor or combine with gas motor want 1/4 throttle on and choke on till motor start then push choke to 1/2 or engine running smoothly to off all way in ! Also let engine warm for 15 mins tap throttle bit more to close 1/2 way on ! That how learn from my late dad & late Uncle plus older elders to taught me and help learn starts up old engines in gas and desiel motors!
Good recommendations! I actually have a magneto for an Oliver 70 that I want to try out. I've tested it on my bench tester and it seems to run well. So I'll throw it on this and see how it does.
Oh geez I don't need to be prodded to work on my OilAllOver 70 too. LOL
Ha ha! You've got an Oliver 70 too?! I like your style! Industrials and Oliver's! Ha ha ha
@@jonelsonster The poor Oliver was my first tractor, tore it apart and got overwhelmed and unmotivated. Been apart ever since. Poor thing
now the 🚜 tractor 🚜 😊 runs it still needs a tune 🎶 😊 up 1 new points and condenser 2 new rotor button 3 new new distributor cap copper if U can 4 new sparkplugs soild copper sparkplug wires that other carb needs 2 welded up where it is bad and the bad seal the only thing 2 do is get a O ring kit and match it up and use it and the carb that the screw is tight U should spray and let it soak and try it again W a pair of vice grips on a screw driver or a pipe wrench on a screw driver or U mighy have 2 heat it 2 get it 2 move its alot closer 2 running than what it was 😊😊 OMG 2 24 2O24
I actually have a magneto from a 70 that I might try using. I did a video of it years ago and have been waiting to try it out. Here is the link:
th-cam.com/video/8Ty5io7YJS0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZHn919vzlWzE-KtE
U still need 2 check and see what the intake and exhaust vavles should be set at 😊😊 OMG 2 24 2O24
Yes, I'm going to go back and double check the valves.
I know what an OLIVER sounds like and it is not that ! 😳 Sounds like you should shoot it and play taps . You got a lot of rebuilding to do. Another thing is the sediment bowel goes on the bottom of the gas tank above carburetor level !!!
Yes, I know it isn't running smoothly. This is a starting point. I was actually happy with how it was running. Like I said, next step is ignition system tuning. I think that should fix a lot.
And I'm pretty sure this is the factory location of the sediment bowl. There is a factory bracket and mounting holes. I also looked at pictures of other 70s just now and they also have the sentiment bowl in the same location. Having the sediment bowl below the carburetor doesn't matter as long as the fuel tank is higher than the carb.
All things considered - I think you have a bit of a win
OK its a start.🤔 Would ROSS the Oliver man agree ? Watch some of his videos.