Godox Speedlight Portraits in the Studio, Part II. We Continue with Beautiful Low-Key Poses.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2024
- Our previous installment concentrated on setting up lighting, and we captured some wonderful images of our lovely subject. • USE SPEEDLIGHTS for St...
Now, in our second half of that session, we explore low-key portraiture with just three SPEEDLIGHTS. Godox V1's were used in two 32" Square Softboxes and our third Godox, as our background light, was equipped with a grid spot and barn doors (included in the Accessory Kit for the round head V1 speedlight).
With the lighting mostly set during Part 1 of this shoot, most of our attention here goes to posing, background control, and a refinement of the lights for each new pose.
With the Godox V1's, we achieved very high quality portraits. Ideally though, more powerful units that have better on-board modeling lights would be preferred, but along with that, of course, come the higher price tags.
I am still very happy with the quality of light these little portables are delivering.
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TECHNICAL NOTES: People always ask, and it's redundant to put the same info in every lighting video, here are some FAQ.
• I always use an ISO of 100 when shooting in the studio. When on location with a scene that needs it, I will use ISO's up to 1600.
• In the studio with the Speedlights and small soft boxes, I average 1/2 power max on my MAIN light, resulting in a working aperture of f/6.3 or f/8. In my classic large studio with Photogenic Powerlights and big Larson Soff Boxes, I average f/11. We are usually shooting a bigger scene and perhaps more people.
• How far away are the lights? As close a possible, depending on number of subjects. Generally 30-40" from the light's surface to subject. Everything must be adjusted when the group gets larger, but the same directional look can be maintained.
• Reflectors: There is a video just on that subject. My default is one large white panel.
• Photo Lighting Reflect...
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You so encouraging,
I started watching you about a year ago and I think you would be proud of what you have made me,petty dang good at Portrait work thank you again I actually have a corporate shoot for 25 employees thank you for teaching me again
Glad it helps!
Very very nice like it!
Awesome you’re so patient thank you for teaching us
Thanks
Great video as usual. Really liked the informal and casual portraits mixed with really good formal. Laura is on her way to being a model. She's very comfortable with the camera and shows appropriate personality while you teach. She's an asset to the overall production.
Thanks. Bill! She was just a "cold find", friend of friend. She's not a model, just well poised with a soft sweet personality. It's been great, though we have to mix it up moving forward. I don't like to record "paying" customers, so the hunt is always on!
enjoyed lighting
Great lesson again. Thanks for sharing! Cheers from Germany
My pleasure!
Great info and images Tim thanks for sharing,
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
Not only do you have your images/techniques down to a fine art. Your explanations at the end are also down to a fine art. Simple, clear & concise...as always Tim !!
Thank you so much 😀
Hey Tim, will you make a video where you talk about your camera settings for a shoot like this? Thank you, awesome tips and tricks!
I do occasionally, like when I'm on location or outdoors. However when you shoot in the studio, your settings are up to you. IF there is little ambient light it won't show up in your images made with strobes. In this case, I use a higher shutter speed (greater than 1/125) which will still flash sync on your camera, and use an aperture that I need to achieve the focus I'm looking for. (Usually f/8-f/11 for me). Then I set the power output of my lights to give me perfect expose at those setting.
If you have strong ambient (existing natural) light, you must start your camera settings (shutter speed / aperture) for your desired result there. Do you WANT the available light? How do you want it to register in your image? Your shutter speed gives you the most control here and that really doesn't affect your strobe equation much. You establish your proper recording of the scene/subject WITHOUT FLASH and then add the strobes using their power and distance to create your image.
This is my take on controlled portrait lighting. Naturally, there are all kinds of specialty lighting techniques for other subjects and styles.
Hope this helps.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques yes it does, thank you so much!
Let us know when you will be teaching a live class again
Excellent video, lighting an old master background twice I would of never thought of that, how far is the subject from the background usually?
Glad it was helpful! I always have a 5-6' minimum distance between subject and a studio background.
Thanks Tim. So your fill light is hitting background predominantly as well as the background light?? What is the power output or ratio of those lights compared to the main?
In this video the fill is hitting mostly background and a little subject. The Main and fill are always on the same side so that THEY CAN share the light, a little or a light. The power of those lights on the background start off at the -1stop on each but are altered to taste. The only ratio involved would be between the main and the reflector, which models the face and body. The density and REFLECTIVITY of the background dictates how much power it needs to render at a desired level. A dark background literally sucks up the light. So, today, in digital use, you must judge for yourself what is most pleasing.
Hope that helps.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques Thats explained well, thankyou very much. Appreciate your video content a lot. Cheers from Down Under