I found to have best results, after curing an hour or two to take put some latex gloves on and smooth down the peaks of the sealant. This is a good time to push the sealant into any void you may have missed. You can also use a piece of plastic to knock down the peaks.
I followed the Delboy method as well on the front and back of my 2003 Heritage softail, and after two years riding they are still as good as ever, even after 3 sets of tyre changes. As I have never had to ajust spokes in my 40 years of, riding, I guess it is worth doing.
Cool video. It seems we are all going Tubeless. Did this to the rear of my Husky 701 Enduro with the same products and method, it is working great with a Motoz RallZ tire. I elected to go with a TuBliss setup on the front wheel, as the 21" TuBliss will work with the narrow dirt bike sized rim width, and I feel it's much more secure than this method for the front wheel. The 18" rear wheel on the 690/701 is 2.5" wide while a standard dirt bike rear is 2.25 inches. Some have used the 18" TuBliss system on the 690/701 but they have to pick tires with thick enough beads and it literally is a "stretch" so I went this route on the back of my 701. I don't air down the rear while off road as the RallZ is a meaty tire and the big thumper finds traction even with 24 PSI, but I like to run 18-20 PSI in the front when off road for the extra traction. 18 PSI is probably too low for the technique shown in the video to reliably work, plus the TuBliss high pressure bladder acts as a giant rim lock and it has an actual rim lock, which is nice. TuBliss is not DOT approved but apparently they never applied for it. I balanced the wheel for the TuBliss rim lock and it works fine. For the AT I would go with the TuBliss in front and use this method for the rear. One final comment - when mounting a tubeless tire, if the air leaks out due to the beads not being seated on the shoulder enough, wrap a ratchet strap around the tire and crank it. The pressure from the strap will push the beads out onto the shoulder. Lubing them with Armor All helps too. I use Armor all when mounting tires, it doesn't dry out and is slicker than snot. Just don't get it all over the tread on a street tire 😄
Thanks for the advice and insight. I had heard of the ratchet strap trick to seat the bead - and actually used it a couple times - but I hadn't heard about armor all. I'll definitely have to give that a go. I usually use rim grease, but it does dry out very quickly. Thanks!
For the front wheel a rim lock would be a good idea as many run these without it and its all fun in games until front wheel punctures and tire slides off the rim.
I would think if a completely flat tire wanted to come off the rim it would do so, with our without the rim lock (since the rimlock only holds on spot). I've seen benefits of rimlocks with tubes, keeping the tire from rotating along the rim, but I don't have any experience with it keeping a flat from rolling off the bead. Either way, agreed. Rim locks are good.
I did the rear only on my 2018 AT, lost 0 air for 90,000kms then rode 3 long days in 100 plus degree heat to a flat tire morning of the 4th day. Tape looked like tissue paper when removed. Just bought a 2023 Transalp, I’ll do the rear only again.
Just out of interest, in the 90,000kms, did you ever get a flat in your front wheel with the tube? I ask as I also have a Transalp and am deciding if I can leave thr front wheel alone like you have done
MTB tubeless valve stems would have been another option. Also, sealing spoke holes is not really necessary. If you use good enough tape, and firmly wrap it, it'll do the job. The tire's air pressure forces the tape to do seal everything.
The tubeless mtb stems I'm used to have the narrower presta valves that I don't think would work. But schrader mtb stems might. I'm really happy with the quality of the Drag Specialties stems I used. From my research doing just the tape was hit and miss for folks. I imagine using only tape works well when done right, but I was nervous about things sealing up, so went with the potentially overkill approach of sealant + tape - just for a little added confidence in the system.
@@PointsUnknownTV Agree. It is more work, but going through the extra work of sealing and taping increases the odds of having a trouble free experience.
Nice video. I'm about to go out to the garage to install the Outex system on my Africa Twin. The NA Outex distributor recommends Goop sealant in the spoke holes, so I'll be doing that too. Figures crossed (I'm not as fastidious as you)! :-)
so, it looks at though the 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200 isnt for metal. but the 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200 is. hope that works well for you.
Good question. Per the 3M spec sheet 4200 and 5200 products are very similar. Both at indicated for metal, but the 5200 is a "high strength" permanent bond while the 4200 is a "medium strength" removable bond. I went for the higher strength in my application, but ymmv. See www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066996/
Hi, an exhaustive and good video about the conversion process. I have a question: after the whole process of sealing the rim, is it mandatory to mount a tubeless tire on the rim? Or can you use a "normal" tire only without the inner tube?
I believe the prevailing wisdom would say no tube type tires with a tubeless setup. I personally would be very concerned about the bead holding on a tube type tire. I would suggest running tubeless tires with any tubeless setup.
i have the gold wheels also. I also change my own tires. They are such a pain because it kills me to scratch those beautiful wheels. I never use tire levers. I use no mar and baja no pinch tools.
Really it looks simple. I have Enfield interceptor 650. I made rear wheel tubeless using silicon sealant and rubber tape. And it took me days to complete.
Wondering what's the purpose of the rubber rim strips on top of everything. I put one on my tubeless conversion (3m 5200 quick set only with no 4411n tape) and it broke and made my wheel unbalanced at random speeds. Found out after replacing tire for a new one - no issues with it since. Rear, started leaking so slightly after 1 1/2 years so I removed the tire to look at things and I don't think I spent enough time cleaning, roughing up rim etc. So now in the process of redoing rear with more attention and the added protection of the 4411n tape. Hoping for the best. Thanks a lot for the video!
That's a really good point on the rim strip. I put it back in "because I had it". But it really is extraneous with the sealant and tape. Even if I did bend the rim and need to put a tube in, I don't think I'd need a rim strip. And it's a good anecdote that sometimes the extraneous stuff causes more problems than benefits.
Conventional guidance indicates that you want the safety lip when running tubeless. As I understand it, it's optional when running tubes. More info on the safety lip here: adventure-motorcycling.com/tag/mt-safety-lip-rims/
I don't understand why converting front wheels without a safety bead isn't recommended. If they are safe for a tube, which is much more prone to a catastrophic deflation, why not without the tube? A flat tube doesn't hold the tire on the rim if it is rolling down the road. Seems to me that tubeless would actually be safer since deflation usually happens much slower.
I understand on tubed rims you can use a tubeless tyre with a tube. What I'd like to know is...does a tubeless tyre have a different effect on the tube over a tube specific tyre?
I don't know scientifically. But in general my experience is that mounting tubeless tires is harder, as they usually have stiffer side walls and a tighter bead than tube type tires.
That seems like a really good approach to me. But I don't have any expertise in the rotational mechanics and safety of tire/wheel systems. And regardless, if the wheel doesn't have the safety lip, I believe it's still not "approved" for tubeless. So run at your own risk.
First of all, THANKS for the detailed explanation. I have never done this before & new to Honda DCT Africa Twin world. I was riding with the wife and had no clue as what to do when we got a rear tire flat, was a complete nightmare. Seeing your video I have purchased everything and will start the process this week. I do have a question 🙋🏼♂️ I’m going to replace my rear tire and don’t know if I buy for tube or tubeless? Please advise and advise is greatly appreciated. Again, thanks & ride safe.
If you are going to set up the wheel for tubeless (as shown in the video), you have to use tubeless rated tires. You can run tubes in tubeless tires / rims, but you should not run tube type tires without an inner tube. Does that make sense?
Yes. The rim is the same. That's the point, to convert tube rims by sealing them to hold air for tubeless applications. And yes. Tube type and tubeless tires have the same general profile. In fact, you can run tubeless tires with an inner tube inside without issue (I do all the time). But it's not typically recommended to run tube-type tires in a tubeless setup. They both fit the same rims, but tube type tires are typically more flexible with weaker beads, which would not hold on to the rim if installed without a tube inside.
I really don't see the point in using the tape over big globs of sealant. The tape is almost definitely going to leak. Sealing the individual spokes should be adequate if prepped well. Also, it's much easier to clean off if you have to adjust the spokes. You can use a rotary wire wheel then just reapply the sealant.
You can get Alpina wheelsets from several online retailers (do a search - depending on where you are). Or go with a custom wheel builder like Woodys WheelWorks.
Did you notice any difference in steering "feel" due to there being less gyroscopic force in the front wheel? Did the wheel follow bumps better due to being lighter? Did the bike accelerate or brake faster due to having less rotating mass in the wheels?
I'm sure others may report such things, but I don't "feel" stuff like that. I just ride. But I hope the next flat tire will be as simple as a tire plug versus having to patch a tube!
I know a lab that can help with that. I recently hired them after changing the rear tire to a new one to see how much the difference in mass affects the moment of inertia and fuel consumption. I snapped back to reality and opened a new tab in my browser...
I'm not entirely sure what you are asking. But yes, you can put a tube in, if you needed to (emergency where you bent the rim and it wouldn't hold air in tubeless mode anymore, for example). But you would have to remove the fixed valve stem in the wheel so you had a hole for the tubes valve stem to pass through.
@@PointsUnknownTV - I''d try kerosene or paint thinner as a lubricant on my finger or a plastic spatula. Water might even work since it's made to tolerate contact with water, even when setting.
Yeah. There's definitely a risk if/when I tighten the spokes. But there's the possibility things will hold together even after that. And honestly, I rarely turn spokes.
I am not too sure about this as you said the front rim doesn’t have the safety lip . Doing something to a part that it isn’t designed to do can leave you in danger . This has a feeling of going to the darkside (fitting a car tyre to a bike) where if you have an accident your insurance company can invalidate your insurance. I know tubeless tyres have some massive advantages over tubed I have ridden home with a nail in a tyre which on a tubed tyre would have left me on the side of the road but this just looks like a bodge as you are relying on sealant holding up against the spokes and valve .
Agreed. Front was done for demonstration purposes only (as I said in the video) and tubes should be run where needed. I encourage folks to read up on the risks and benefits of tubeless and the rim safety lip. Avoid the dark side.
@@PointsUnknownTV I live in the UK where you have to inform your insurance company of modifications to you bike this procedure would have to be declared. The insurance company could decline to insure you . Dark siding is a different matter as the part you are fitting isn’t legal to fit, the bike would fail the MOT (mandatory annual safety check) basically you wouldn’t be legally on the road your insurance would be invalid. This would be bad if you had an accident and had to pick up the bill for your bike but damage another’s property or worse injure someone else and the insurance company might pay out but they will come after you for the money and just the legal fees can bankrupt most people.
@@PointsUnknownTV forgot to ask, do you put or even recommend putting tire liquid sealant(self sealing when tire gets punctured) on top of the conversion?
@@ELGUAPOMOTO I didn't use RideOn or Slime in my installation. I thought about it, but was concerned with the chemistry of the slime eating the 3M sealant. Apparently those liquid sealants are pretty inert, but I opted against the chemistry experiment. This time.
@@PointsUnknownTV copy that. will post a video of doing a tubeless conversion by January. (not happy with local shop's conversion). so DIY'ing it my own to get the reliability I need. hoping I can get that 3M marine sealant locally here in Philippines. Thank You sir for the shared Knowledge! Benelli trk502X adventure bike user here.
Too light in my opinion, you have to make an extruded band of at least 5mm (Bartubeless type) otherwise during tire assembly-disassembly there is the risk of ruining everything.
Малейший удар по колесу и если спица растянута она зайдет внутрь колеса , герметик оторвёт, и колесо будет пустым. На новой Африке 1100 есть версия без камеры. Но за видео спасибо
Yes. there is certainly risk involved in doing it this way. The best way, as you said, is to get new wheels that are already tubeless. But this way, although more risky, is more cost effective.
I have and.... Check the rims. Rims for Africa twin 1000 and 1100 is welded not one piece is not round, after sealed spokes nut need seals tyres, watch inside the rims it is marks for machining after welding
Question for you. What happens if you get a blowout on the front wheel with a tube in? How is that any safer than no tube? Honestly, Honda should be ashamed to sell that bike with tube-type tires, it's a freaking joke. Same for Suzuki with the new DE.
And Yamaha with the T7? The implications for the front wheel might not be directly for safety, but use in a manner other than directed. I am not going to debate it. To each their own. And Aftermarket or other solutions are available.
@@PointsUnknownTV Yes, the T7 is another example of a bike that should be tubeless right from the factory. On an XT250, or XR150, tubes are acceptable. Those bikes are built for people on a budget, and being lightweight, they come with smaller, softer tires that are much easier to get on and off a rim. Anything that's in the ADV category should really be tubeless. And anyone who makes the argument that tubes have advantages on an ADV bike is free to put tubes in their tires.
Nice effort but not a scientific way to do it. It will creat imbalanced wheel due to difference in paste weight application, spokes wont offer good road undulation soaking abilities too and there's always fear of loosing air suddenly at cruising Speed
@@PointsUnknownTV i did it in Royal Enfield Interceptor, used for good 15 K kms and recently removed it due to bad NVH from tyres. It was butyl rubber compound sealant
So much unnecessary work for the simplest action. There is no need for sealant on the knitting needles; sometimes the knitting needles need to be twisted and tightened, so it was necessary to stick patches of some kind of material on them (the patches are very good for gluing screws on cabinet furniture) so that they could be turned. Because of this, it would not be necessary to glue tape 4411 in two layers on the rear disk, because its width would be enough. On the front wheel, you just had to position the tape in the center and stick it on and you don’t need any electrical tape, but again the height of these sealant cakes did not allow you to do this. This would have greatly saved the final weight of the disks and fewer problems with balancing. I won’t say anything about washing discs, it’s a matter of religion, if I like it, I think the usual but good degreasing would be enough.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
I found to have best results, after curing an hour or two to take put some latex gloves on and smooth down the peaks of the sealant. This is a good time to push the sealant into any void you may have missed. You can also use a piece of plastic to knock down the peaks.
That is great advice. Thank you.
I made on my F800GS only with PU sealant, like Delboy Garage made in their videos. 30.000 km after, they still perfect, no leaks only success!
That's awesome. An issues with the wheel staying true and needing to adjust spokes?
I followed the Delboy method as well on the front and back of my 2003 Heritage softail, and after two years riding they are still as good as ever, even after 3 sets of tyre changes. As I have never had to ajust spokes in my 40 years of, riding, I guess it is worth doing.
did you seal both rim or just back one?
Cool video. It seems we are all going Tubeless.
Did this to the rear of my Husky 701 Enduro with the same products and method, it is working great with a Motoz RallZ tire. I elected to go with a TuBliss setup on the front wheel, as the 21" TuBliss will work with the narrow dirt bike sized rim width, and I feel it's much more secure than this method for the front wheel.
The 18" rear wheel on the 690/701 is 2.5" wide while a standard dirt bike rear is 2.25 inches. Some have used the 18" TuBliss system on the 690/701 but they have to pick tires with thick enough beads and it literally is a "stretch" so I went this route on the back of my 701.
I don't air down the rear while off road as the RallZ is a meaty tire and the big thumper finds traction even with 24 PSI, but I like to run 18-20 PSI in the front when off road for the extra traction. 18 PSI is probably too low for the technique shown in the video to reliably work, plus the TuBliss high pressure bladder acts as a giant rim lock and it has an actual rim lock, which is nice.
TuBliss is not DOT approved but apparently they never applied for it. I balanced the wheel for the TuBliss rim lock and it works fine. For the AT I would go with the TuBliss in front and use this method for the rear.
One final comment - when mounting a tubeless tire, if the air leaks out due to the beads not being seated on the shoulder enough, wrap a ratchet strap around the tire and crank it. The pressure from the strap will push the beads out onto the shoulder. Lubing them with Armor All helps too. I use Armor all when mounting tires, it doesn't dry out and is slicker than snot. Just don't get it all over the tread on a street tire 😄
Thanks for the advice and insight. I had heard of the ratchet strap trick to seat the bead - and actually used it a couple times - but I hadn't heard about armor all. I'll definitely have to give that a go. I usually use rim grease, but it does dry out very quickly.
Thanks!
For the front wheel a rim lock would be a good idea as many run these without it and its all fun in games until front wheel punctures and tire slides off the rim.
I would think if a completely flat tire wanted to come off the rim it would do so, with our without the rim lock (since the rimlock only holds on spot). I've seen benefits of rimlocks with tubes, keeping the tire from rotating along the rim, but I don't have any experience with it keeping a flat from rolling off the bead. Either way, agreed. Rim locks are good.
If the tyre is punctured the air can only escape through the wound - unlike a tubed wheel this gives time to move off the road under full control
I did the rear only on my 2018 AT, lost 0 air for 90,000kms then rode 3 long days in 100 plus degree heat to a flat tire morning of the 4th day. Tape looked like tissue paper when removed. Just bought a 2023 Transalp, I’ll do the rear only again.
That's excellent long term feedback. Thanks for sharing.
Just out of interest, in the 90,000kms, did you ever get a flat in your front wheel with the tube? I ask as I also have a Transalp and am deciding if I can leave thr front wheel alone like you have done
MTB tubeless valve stems would have been another option.
Also, sealing spoke holes is not really necessary. If you use good enough tape, and firmly wrap it, it'll do the job. The tire's air pressure forces the tape to do seal everything.
The tubeless mtb stems I'm used to have the narrower presta valves that I don't think would work. But schrader mtb stems might. I'm really happy with the quality of the Drag Specialties stems I used.
From my research doing just the tape was hit and miss for folks. I imagine using only tape works well when done right, but I was nervous about things sealing up, so went with the potentially overkill approach of sealant + tape - just for a little added confidence in the system.
@@PointsUnknownTV
I've used prestas. Just have to get a metal valve stem adapter and glue that in, first.
@@PointsUnknownTV Agree. It is more work, but going through the extra work of sealing and taping increases the odds of having a trouble free experience.
Totally agree.
Nice video. I'm about to go out to the garage to install the Outex system on my Africa Twin. The NA Outex distributor recommends Goop sealant in the spoke holes, so I'll be doing that too. Figures crossed (I'm not as fastidious as you)! :-)
You got it! Slow and methodical and it should work out just fine.
so, it looks at though the 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200 isnt for metal.
but the 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200 is. hope that works well for you.
Good question. Per the 3M spec sheet 4200 and 5200 products are very similar. Both at indicated for metal, but the 5200 is a "high strength" permanent bond while the 4200 is a "medium strength" removable bond. I went for the higher strength in my application, but ymmv.
See www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066996/
Hi, an exhaustive and good video about the conversion process. I have a question: after the whole process of sealing the rim, is it mandatory to mount a tubeless tire on the rim? Or can you use a "normal" tire only without the inner tube?
I believe the prevailing wisdom would say no tube type tires with a tubeless setup. I personally would be very concerned about the bead holding on a tube type tire. I would suggest running tubeless tires with any tubeless setup.
i have the gold wheels also. I also change my own tires. They are such a pain because it kills me to scratch those beautiful wheels. I never use tire levers. I use no mar and baja no pinch tools.
They are beautiful wheels. And I definitely ♥ the baja no pinch tool. Haven't had a chance to use the Nomar tool. Will have to check it out.
Really it looks simple. I have Enfield interceptor 650. I made rear wheel tubeless using silicon sealant and rubber tape. And it took me days to complete.
Agreed. It's not hard - just time consuming.
Hi bro how is the performance
I use only vulcruberband, that's has worked for 20 years on any wheel!
Big like 👍 👌
Thanks for the efforts .
Great gob . Well done 👏 ✔️ 👍
Great video. What tpms system are you using?
Subscribed, great video editing sound and lay out of workspace👍
Glad it was helpful.
You the best bro tanks perkonsian cara pembuatan utk spoke rim jadi tubelelss std no comen k
How are the sealed rims holding up and would you do it again? I am thinking about doing the same to my Africa Twin and my wife's 800DE.
Thanks
A few thousand miles later and all is still holding up just fine. My tube tires on other bikes lose air faster then the sealed AT rims do.
Wondering what's the purpose of the rubber rim strips on top of everything. I put one on my tubeless conversion (3m 5200 quick set only with no 4411n tape) and it broke and made my wheel unbalanced at random speeds. Found out after replacing tire for a new one - no issues with it since. Rear, started leaking so slightly after 1 1/2 years so I removed the tire to look at things and I don't think I spent enough time cleaning, roughing up rim etc. So now in the process of redoing rear with more attention and the added protection of the 4411n tape. Hoping for the best. Thanks a lot for the video!
That's a really good point on the rim strip. I put it back in "because I had it". But it really is extraneous with the sealant and tape. Even if I did bend the rim and need to put a tube in, I don't think I'd need a rim strip. And it's a good anecdote that sometimes the extraneous stuff causes more problems than benefits.
What function does the safety lip lose if you fill the tire with air instead of air inside a tube?
Conventional guidance indicates that you want the safety lip when running tubeless. As I understand it, it's optional when running tubes. More info on the safety lip here: adventure-motorcycling.com/tag/mt-safety-lip-rims/
I don't understand why converting front wheels without a safety bead isn't recommended. If they are safe for a tube, which is much more prone to a catastrophic deflation, why not without the tube? A flat tube doesn't hold the tire on the rim if it is rolling down the road. Seems to me that tubeless would actually be safer since deflation usually happens much slower.
Yup. There is definitely an argument to be made there. But to each their own.
Can you send me a link where to buy the item you were using to mount the rear tire it seems like that tool will make it a little easier
Yes. I absolutely love the Baja No Pinch tool. Makes things much easier (at least, in my opinion).
amzn.to/3uHLNzP
What happends when you need to tighten your spokes to true the wheel ?
I'll do it very carefully. :)
And if I have to redo the sealant, that's okay.
I understand on tubed rims you can use a tubeless tyre with a tube. What I'd like to know is...does a tubeless tyre have a different effect on the tube over a tube specific tyre?
I don't know scientifically. But in general my experience is that mounting tubeless tires is harder, as they usually have stiffer side walls and a tighter bead than tube type tires.
Could you use a rimlock on the front ? would that work ?
That seems like a really good approach to me. But I don't have any expertise in the rotational mechanics and safety of tire/wheel systems. And regardless, if the wheel doesn't have the safety lip, I believe it's still not "approved" for tubeless. So run at your own risk.
First of all, THANKS for the detailed explanation. I have never done this before & new to Honda DCT Africa Twin world. I was riding with the wife and had no clue as what to do when we got a rear tire flat, was a complete nightmare. Seeing your video I have purchased everything and will start the process this week. I do have a question 🙋🏼♂️ I’m going to replace my rear tire and don’t know if I buy for tube or tubeless? Please advise and advise is greatly appreciated. Again, thanks & ride safe.
If you are going to set up the wheel for tubeless (as shown in the video), you have to use tubeless rated tires. You can run tubes in tubeless tires / rims, but you should not run tube type tires without an inner tube.
Does that make sense?
Thanks very help full…then I will buy tubeless rear tire & follow your video instructions. Greatly appreciated!
Hi bro kindly share your experience
When you convert to tubeless. Is the rim the same? I.E does a tubeless tyre fit on a tubeless rim, or is the profile different . .
Yes. The rim is the same. That's the point, to convert tube rims by sealing them to hold air for tubeless applications.
And yes. Tube type and tubeless tires have the same general profile. In fact, you can run tubeless tires with an inner tube inside without issue (I do all the time). But it's not typically recommended to run tube-type tires in a tubeless setup. They both fit the same rims, but tube type tires are typically more flexible with weaker beads, which would not hold on to the rim if installed without a tube inside.
How's the tubeless workout for you now that you've got some miles and time on the bike? I'm getting ready to do the same and would love an update
Still works great. No issues from my install. Plan on doing the same on my T7 shortly.
@PointsUnknownTV Thank you for the information.
I really don't see the point in using the tape over big globs of sealant. The tape is almost definitely going to leak. Sealing the individual spokes should be adequate if prepped well. Also, it's much easier to clean off if you have to adjust the spokes. You can use a rotary wire wheel then just reapply the sealant.
Yup. Lots of people just do sealant. And lots of people just do tape. I opted for both and I'm happy with the results.
Any recommendations where I can purchase rims, front and back, that are set up for tubeless for my AT?
You can get Alpina wheelsets from several online retailers (do a search - depending on where you are). Or go with a custom wheel builder like Woodys WheelWorks.
Did i understand correctly, your rims do not have rim locks on the rear of the bike?
Correct. I do not have rimlocks on the AT.
Did you notice any difference in steering "feel" due to there being less gyroscopic force in the front wheel?
Did the wheel follow bumps better due to being lighter?
Did the bike accelerate or brake faster due to having less rotating mass in the wheels?
I'm sure others may report such things, but I don't "feel" stuff like that. I just ride. But I hope the next flat tire will be as simple as a tire plug versus having to patch a tube!
I know a lab that can help with that. I recently hired them after changing the rear tire to a new one to see how much the difference in mass affects the moment of inertia and fuel consumption.
I snapped back to reality and opened a new tab in my browser...
@@stojanjankovic5669means bro?
Hi is it also posiblle to run tubes with this setup? Or completely pointless due to the tube valve which you can't completely seal?
I'm not entirely sure what you are asking. But yes, you can put a tube in, if you needed to (emergency where you bent the rim and it wouldn't hold air in tubeless mode anymore, for example). But you would have to remove the fixed valve stem in the wheel so you had a hole for the tubes valve stem to pass through.
what happens when a spoke needs to be tightened ?
So far that hasn't been an issue for me.
You should have smoothed out the sealer when still wet.
What would you recommend for smoothing? Everything I tried just got stuck to it.
@@PointsUnknownTV - I''d try kerosene or paint thinner as a lubricant on my finger or a plastic spatula.
Water might even work since it's made to tolerate contact with water, even when setting.
Engine oil on your finger works a treat 👍🏼
Ky
Have You ever heard about tubliss system??
Yes. It's supposed to be very good. But the cost is significantly higher than this DIY method.
Muy bien y gracias!!!..lo hare en mi Triumph scrambler
Muy buen trabajo. 👏👏
muchas gracias
Ok, but how are you going to true your rims in the future? ;)
Yeah. There's definitely a risk if/when I tighten the spokes. But there's the possibility things will hold together even after that. And honestly, I rarely turn spokes.
Hi mate are you still happy with it, any leak?
Yes. Still happy. No leaks yet.
@@PointsUnknownTV Thanks mate.
Wow nice video
I am not too sure about this as you said the front rim doesn’t have the safety lip . Doing something to a part that it isn’t designed to do can leave you in danger . This has a feeling of going to the darkside (fitting a car tyre to a bike) where if you have an accident your insurance company can invalidate your insurance. I know tubeless tyres have some massive advantages over tubed I have ridden home with a nail in a tyre which on a tubed tyre would have left me on the side of the road but this just looks like a bodge as you are relying on sealant holding up against the spokes and valve .
Agreed. Front was done for demonstration purposes only (as I said in the video) and tubes should be run where needed. I encourage folks to read up on the risks and benefits of tubeless and the rim safety lip. Avoid the dark side.
@@PointsUnknownTV I live in the UK where you have to inform your insurance company of modifications to you bike this procedure would have to be declared. The insurance company could decline to insure you . Dark siding is a different matter as the part you are fitting isn’t legal to fit, the bike would fail the MOT (mandatory annual safety check) basically you wouldn’t be legally on the road your insurance would be invalid. This would be bad if you had an accident and had to pick up the bill for your bike but damage another’s property or worse injure someone else and the insurance company might pay out but they will come after you for the money and just the legal fees can bankrupt most people.
@johnludmon7419 another reason america is better. :)
Hi sir, how is it now? still holding air?
Yes. No problems at all.
@@PointsUnknownTV forgot to ask, do you put or even recommend putting tire liquid sealant(self sealing when tire gets punctured) on top of the conversion?
@@ELGUAPOMOTO I didn't use RideOn or Slime in my installation. I thought about it, but was concerned with the chemistry of the slime eating the 3M sealant. Apparently those liquid sealants are pretty inert, but I opted against the chemistry experiment. This time.
@@PointsUnknownTV copy that. will post a video of doing a tubeless conversion by January. (not happy with local shop's conversion). so DIY'ing it my own to get the reliability I need. hoping I can get that 3M marine sealant locally here in Philippines. Thank You sir for the shared Knowledge!
Benelli trk502X adventure bike user here.
Very cool
Bro still it works?
Yup. Still works fantastically.
U forgot explain how many sealant u add to inside wheel
I didn't add any sealant inside the wheel. So far so good.
Too light in my opinion, you have to make an extruded band of at least 5mm (Bartubeless type) otherwise during tire assembly-disassembly there is the risk of ruining everything.
I try to keep things light.
Малейший удар по колесу и если спица растянута она зайдет внутрь колеса , герметик оторвёт, и колесо будет пустым. На новой Африке 1100 есть версия без камеры. Но за видео спасибо
Yes. there is certainly risk involved in doing it this way. The best way, as you said, is to get new wheels that are already tubeless. But this way, although more risky, is more cost effective.
Take a shot when he says "Ahh"
you dont have enough bottles for that! :) I'll work on being more concise in my live narration.
@@PointsUnknownTV Awesome, Man!
I have and.... Check the rims. Rims for Africa twin 1000 and 1100 is welded not one piece is not round, after sealed spokes nut need seals tyres, watch inside the rims it is marks for machining after welding
Metric is like a secret language that the rest of the world use and Americans don't understand, oh and liberia
Top top
thanks!
Question for you. What happens if you get a blowout on the front wheel with a tube in? How is that any safer than no tube?
Honestly, Honda should be ashamed to sell that bike with tube-type tires, it's a freaking joke. Same for Suzuki with the new DE.
And Yamaha with the T7?
The implications for the front wheel might not be directly for safety, but use in a manner other than directed. I am not going to debate it. To each their own. And Aftermarket or other solutions are available.
@@PointsUnknownTV Yes, the T7 is another example of a bike that should be tubeless right from the factory.
On an XT250, or XR150, tubes are acceptable. Those bikes are built for people on a budget, and being lightweight, they come with smaller, softer tires that are much easier to get on and off a rim. Anything that's in the ADV category should really be tubeless. And anyone who makes the argument that tubes have advantages on an ADV bike is free to put tubes in their tires.
Nice effort but not a scientific way to do it. It will creat imbalanced wheel due to difference in paste weight application, spokes wont offer good road undulation soaking abilities too and there's always fear of loosing air suddenly at cruising Speed
I balanced my wheels after mounting the tires. Definitely a good recommendation.
@@PointsUnknownTV i did it in Royal Enfield Interceptor, used for good 15 K kms and recently removed it due to bad NVH from tyres. It was butyl rubber compound sealant
just buy some VMX wheels!
That's a solution for sure. But so expensive.
@@PointsUnknownTV but it's the cheapest real solution, about 1500$ per bike, 100% tubeless.
I'll check them out. Do you know where to get them in the US?
@@PointsUnknownTV no, but you can search on Google.
So much unnecessary work for the simplest action. There is no need for sealant on the knitting needles; sometimes the knitting needles need to be twisted and tightened, so it was necessary to stick patches of some kind of material on them (the patches are very good for gluing screws on cabinet furniture) so that they could be turned. Because of this, it would not be necessary to glue tape 4411 in two layers on the rear disk, because its width would be enough. On the front wheel, you just had to position the tape in the center and stick it on and you don’t need any electrical tape, but again the height of these sealant cakes did not allow you to do this. This would have greatly saved the final weight of the disks and fewer problems with balancing. I won’t say anything about washing discs, it’s a matter of religion, if I like it, I think the usual but good degreasing would be enough.