How to Replace a Fascia Board and Repair Water Damage - The Super Handyman
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 เม.ย. 2020
- TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED
- Lumber ( to measure)
- Prybar
- Tape Measure
- Electric Nailer
- Circular Saw
- Nails
STEPS FOR REPLACING FASCIA BOARD
1. Loosen any attached gutters. Be sure to check condition of the drip edge and status of the gutter. Excessive water buildup or water that doesn’t drain properly can lead to wood damage and rot.
2. Use pry bar to loosen and detach damaged fascia board. This step is usually an easy one, rotted wood “lets go” easily.
3. Use old board to help measure replacement board. You can use a tape measure to determine the length of your replacement board. When you prepare to make your cuts it can be handy to place the old board next to the pre-cut board for ease in .assuring a matched fit.
4. Cut new board. Mark you cuts lines. Use 45 degree angle cut to ensure proper fit when reattaching the replacement board.
5. Fit new board into place and nail securely. This step may be easier with an extra hand depending on the length of the board.
6. Prime new board if desired. To help prevent mildew you can prime the bare wood with a mildew resistant primer. You may prefer to eliminate this step and add a mildewcide to the paint instead.
7. Apply new paint. Apply one or two coats of a quality latex house paint. Check the label to see if it includes a mildewcide, if not you can buy it and add the preventative to the paint before application.
MILDEW ON EXTERIOR WOOD
• Often forms on areas that tend to be damp and receive little or no direct sunlight ( walls with a northerly exposure and the underside of eaves are particularly vulnerable)
• Mildew has roots. Like any plant this fungus has to be eradicated from the root. Unless the mildew is removed to the root, it will grow back.
• Mildew that is painted over will grow back through the paint,. You must first totally remove the mildew, apply paint that contains a sufficient level of mildewcide. You can also apply a midew proof primer prior to painting.
AL CARRELL’S MAGIC MILDEW REMOVAL FORMULA
3 quarts of warm water
1 quart of liquid bleach
¾ cup of powdered laundry detergent
¼ cup TSP (tri-sodium phosphate, can be easily obtained from paint stores)
Mix thoroughly and apply to mildew with a scrub brush or stiff broom. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and eye protection…this formula works, but it is caustic.
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If I were you, I would paint the wood thoroughly on all sides and edges before I install on the house. This is my personal opinion , I am not a construction expert. Thank you.
@MohamedAli-eo6nb
Exactly what I was going to say.
Some additional info people should note before attempting:
The 45 degree cut was probably made originally and he just matched it. Its a common joint technique (called a scarf joint) used when extending boards (often seen on interior trim as well).
Also, to actually remove the board without removing the gutter, you will need an oscillating tool to cut thru the nails that attach the fascia to the rafter ends... and obviously remove the long gutter nails from front of the rotten board as well.
This video also assumes the gutter is attached well enough on either side of the rotten board to remove just that board section... which might not be the case. It very well could be alot easier to remove the whole gutter completely first, BUT TO DO THAT you need to have a couple of people or a system to support the gutter as it will easily bend under it’s own weight when detached on one end.
Yeah I replaced fascia board on my garage and it was such a pain to get in level and flush against the rafter ends and the bottom end of the rafters which were a little rotted. I tried swimming with no luck.. Next time I will leave it to the pros like yourself
You must be a part time magician. I have never seen that length of fascia separate from a house with the ease that you demonstrated.
Ditto for me on priming and painting the replacement before installation.
Editing is his friend
Great video! I never knew you could add a mildew preventative to paint. Thanks so much!
I’m curious, should you have painted that whole board before nailing the gutter up?
What an absolutely fantastic guide. Thank you so much. I feel a LOT more confident tackling this myself now.
Thank you for uploading this video
Can you please come to my house i so love your work ethics either you or someone just exactly like you I do not care for people that do half-assed work either do it or don't create more of a problem doing it wrong I need you I love the way you think I want to say thank you for your expertise in your probably everything you do
broomstick mixer and eyeing everything, my kind of man! That mildew came right off, get this man a drink.
I love people like him. I miss my old timer friend Tim... rip!!!
I think not painting the wood resting behind the gutter is asking to do the job again soon. Once you know the size of the piece of wood removed or length needed to replace go ahead and put the board on saw horses and prime it then paint second coat. This way, you aren't getting paint on the gutter trying to cut in unnecessarily, plus not taking the gutter down it means you put only one screw in the fascia board mounting to the rafter tail...not the best way to do it in my opinion. to each his own.
I will be doing this in the spring on my dads garage.
Thanks paw paw for all your tips!
I bet he can drink you under the table and have a ton of stories.
How did you move fascia broads so easily? At my roof, the drip edges are over the fascia broads, so it could not be easily to remove.
What about the nails in the facia?
great video
That mildew removal mix is going to be a life saver!! Thank you so much
Why would you not pre paint before replacement???
I agreed. Paint first before install it back. Now the man has to move the ladders to paint the other end :(
Thanks
Thanks for the video but I would like to have seen the process for making those bevel cuts behind the gutter to remove the bad fascia section. Did you use a circular saw or multi tool?
I think he just removed the entire board associated to the rotted section. The 45 degree cut was probably made originally and he matched it. Its a common joint technique (called a scarf joint) used when extending boards (often seen on interior trim as well).
Also, to actually remove the board without removing the gutter, you will need an oscillating tool to cut thru the nails that attach the fascia to the rafter ends... and obviously remove the long gutter nails from front of the rotten board. This video does assume the gutter is attached well enough on either side of the rotten board to remove just that section... which might not be the case. It very well could be alot easier to remove the gutter completely first, but you need to have a couple of people or a system to support the gutter as it will easily bend under it’s own weight when detached on one end.
Why did you not paint the board, (both sides,) ... before you put it back???
You get both side protected and all you have to do is touch-up... ???
Entertaining, but this was more about chemistry than showing the repair.
Also, consider painting the fascia with Killz or similar *before* reinstall for a longer-lasting repair.
Say I have to replace the bottom board and the face boards, how to I get it level and flush because my boards aren't matching up. 🙃 such a pain
Hi! So you don't need to remove the drip edge?? Isn't the drip edge nailed to the fascia board?? I'm asking because I need to replace my fascia and I don't know much about it. Thank you.
Being a year old I assume you discovered already. But in case you didn't. The drip edge is attached to the roof not the fascia board.
Install the wood and then paint it??
Informative but only 1/4 of the short video was on the actual repair. And yes paint the whole board including the cut edge…
No one shows how to get the board out. Just pulling it out.
ALWAYS OIL PRIME BARE WOOD BEFORE APPLYING LATEX PAINT!!
If you apply oil based primer, it will absorb into the wood. You will NEVER have wood rot if you oil prime it. Then apply your choice of latex paint.
Why use a circular saw rather than the chop saw?
Why not paint the wood first before putting it on the house?...
whoa. how old are you
As long as he could climb up the ladder. I am an old man too, but I replaced all new air-ducts one week ago.
Somebody help this poor lo’ man
You need paint and primer not just paint.
Not painting the board before it was installed BEHIND the gutter: CATASTROPHIC FAILURE
No way you poured a quart of bleach into that water, maybe an ounce. Was that a simulation of sonething you already did ahead of filming or did you mean to say add an ounce of bleach.
I think the OG should have worn a mask
Nothing up close--just the money "See!? It's so easy!" shot--nothing about soffit, roofing apron...
I'm sure the guy in the video is a great guy who has a lot of experience, but he has absolutely ZERO experiencing making TH-cam videos of things he claims is "easy" for people who know nothing about these things.
How did he go about measuring everything? What did he see that convinced him to add the angle to the edge? What was he even nailing the new fascia board to and what happens if that board is rotted?
But yeah, like everyone else on TH-cam: "See!? It's so easy!"
There's a reason roofers, carpenters, etc. haven't been automated.
Agree 100%. Show me the hard stuff, the stuff that makes me flash back to holding the flashlight for my dad. I want to see the 'you can do this yourself, but you will need to go to church to repent afterwards' moments. Show me where you have to straighten the gutter kinks & hammering the new board in to fit since its just a hair too long & a bitch to take back out & put back in again.
Also, nails are quick & easy. Screws hold for a lot longer.
Might want to be a little careful about mixing "any" detergent with bleach. Unless you want to gas yourself with chlorine gas. Lol 💀💀💀