FURTHER NOTES! A viewer raised an interesting point. On some modern bikes the dealer can get readings from the ECU and see if you followed the break in recommendations. It's always possible this could be used to deny a warranty claim? Food for thought!
sounds like something a Euro brand like KTM, BMW or Ducati might do... I am aware that Mercedes (I know, not a bike seller but still) actually knows exactly how hard the car is run whenever they take it in for service... and depending on the car will actually contact the dealer itself to schedule an appointment on your behalf... some even come and get the car w/o you having to do a thing. So the idea that one of them would be unwilling to warranty something if you don't follow it break-in protocols is entirely within the realm of possibilities.
The "heat cycle" is the most misunderstood... Its not that the parts need to heat cycle to "toughen" but rather as the moving/touching parts are wearing from rough to smooth, the heat they generate can be excessive enough to change their metallurgy causing premature wear patterns in the future. Giving the parts ample time to wear together without generating excess heat is key to longevity.
Honda's Shop manual for a CB300R literally states: During the first 300 miles (500km) of running follow these guidelines to ensure your vehicle's future reliability and performance. - avoid full throttle starts and rapid acceleration - avoid hard braking and rapid down-shift - Ride conservatively no hard numbers other than 500km.
The way I've done it after a rebuild is to get it warmed up just mainly to check for leaks. Then nurse it for almost a lap. After that I just ride it like normal mostly because I lack the patience/impulse control.
I've owned a couple of identical bikes over the years, same model and year. One always performs better than another. The ones that ran stronger were broken In by me using old school technique: keep changing rpm as much as you can, keep revs low until valve adjustment.
I've never owned a new bike, only purchased used two strokes. I've rebuilt a few motors with new bearings, pistons, nikisil plating etc etc. With the rebuilds I just ran a bit more 2t oil in the fuel, let the bike warm up for a minute or two then rode it normally with 5 litres of fuel. Once done I would replace the gearbox oil & run the normal premix ratio.
The best way is a deliberate hard break in (varying hard accel and hard engine braking) with a super early oil change, it seats the seals better and will let the motor make more HP. Flogging it does help, you need to seat the seals :)
In 2009 I bought a brand new EU version of the Suzuki Boulevard C50 (the C800/VL800), and I did the break-in +/- per the manual. Meaning, I rode with half the throttle for the first 500km and 3/4 throttle for the following 500km. Yes, ocassionally, I did top speed, just to get all the metal shaving out of the system, get rid of potential carbon, etc.. And maybe a bit of a superstition on my part - I did not want the engine to "get lazy" 🙂 Then, at around the 1k km mark, I did the service check & maintenance (again, per manual) and what a suprise, aftwreards the bike ran for 11 more season (*) perfectly fine, without a single issue - and for ten of those seasons, only regular maintenance was needed. Only when going into its last season, I had to recharge the battery (for the first time), but that was it. The VL800 is a superb bike anyway, I need to add. (*) I had to sell it in December 2020 and I did that to the same dealer I bought it from, who then sold it to a new owner in early 2021 - and to my knowledge, that new owner enjoys its problem-free state of operations up till this day
Agree, in my opinion a break in period is mostly about making sure that everything it put right together and no parts has a "0ne out of a million problem" you don't want to find at max rpm while the surfaces of the moving parts get a chance to rub off the edges.
I just did shitty wheelies for the first hr then an oil change and back to the usual terrible riding that the new bike didn't fix, turns out the shop lied to me, they said It would make me an amazing rider!!
Well I just ride the bike like I would for a hour or so and then change the oil and ride the bike some more and I change my oil every 2 to 3 rides. I haven't had any problems yet and I have owned my 1991 cr125r since it was new. Great video!!
Good video. I am about to purchase a new motorcycle in a month and it is a 2.5 hr drive from my house. Going to avoid the highway and do a moderate break in. Thinking about stopping 2-3 times during the trip then get an oil change once I reach my destination
Great subject/video, Barry! I'm currently in 'break-in' with the new T7 now. My plan is to stick to the manufacturer's recommendations thru brake-in and warranty (including lube and filters), then open up the possibilities! Doesn't feel very limiting as I am adjusting to a new and very different bike as well....loving it so far! Cheers, and heal well!
it doesn't feel to heavy, allen? in the old days the old XT600 was very similar in weight to the honda and suzuki but then they really packed on the pounds with the 660 models and leading eventually to the T7. it probably makes it more stable on the road but i wouldn't want to try lifting up a fallen one. i hearing rave reviews though... 😊
@@crosstrainingadventure Yes it is quite a bit heavier than my old DR 350, but I've been watching the coming of the T7 for about 3 years now and it ticks all the boxes for me and the kind of riding I want to do, well into the future, which is a combination of work commuting, trail , and some long adventure rides. So far I can tell you that this bike has very good manners on tarmac, gravel and two track, with plenty of torque throughout. The bike is very well balanced, and it seems it's biggest limitation is me! My goal is that over time I will come close to being able to ride it to it's potential, and that will great adventure!! :-) My broken leg is healed enough that I'm back on the pegs. hope your healing is coming along well! Cheers!
Being an Aircraft maintenance engineer by trade, I will stick to the manufactures recommendations . Aircraft, vehicles and motorcycles are no different. If the manufacturer says, only rev to x amount of revs for the first thousands kays or whatever, do what they say. If they say don’t ride off until your oil temp is at 50 degrees C, do that as well. Engineers who design these engines are the ones inputting into the manual. Pretty simple, just follow the procedure.
You have a nice theory, but it is wrong in this case, for a very specific reason: motorbikes are frequently bought by untrained idiots, who will shift blame for their own incompetence onto manufacturers, and greedy lawyers will encourage them. In sharp contrast, aircraft are bought, operated and maintained by highly trained and rigorously qualified people. If the correct procedure for breaking in an aircraft engine is to operate it aggressively at power levels that require advanced skill to handle, then that is exactly what the aircraft manufacturer will specify, with exactly ZERO fear of being blamed for some idiot following those instructions and getting hurt. The responsibility is 100% on the owners / operators to follow the specified procedure, even if that entails finding a senior pilot with the exceptional skills required. Meanwhile back on the ground, in a world full of idiots and motorcycles, can you imagine a bike manual specifying a "ride it like you stole it" break in procedure, including the stipulation that this must be carried out by a rider with at least 100 hours of prior riding time on the same model bike? The answer is that even if the truth is "ride it like you stole it", no motorcycle manufacturer EVER is going to print that truth in the owner's manual.
Another note is usually if you compare break in procedures within a manufacturer's range of bikes they have the same exact rpm limits on 125cc to 1000cc bikes.
On my 2023 KLR, I’m going up the canyon, then let it cool. Go down the canyon, let it cool. Repeat with next canyon, running up the power and letting off. Change oil at 50miles, 150, 500, then every 3K. May be excessive, but it at least makes me feel like I tried to get a good ring seal. Tires, get em warm, let em cool. Scrub em on asphalt first, tgen dirt canyons.
My BMW GS1200 manual states (Rider_s_Manual_BMW_R_1200_GS_2008.pdf) at page 154; Engine Oils - please see the quote below: BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 10,000 km. Please do not hesitate to contact your authorised BMW Motorrad dealer if you have any questions relating the choice of a suitable engine oil for your motorcycle. -- Keep up the good
I do what they call a cold break in where you start the bike immediately ride it for a short distance let it cool and repeat 3 times. Just riding like normal most the time but goosing it up here and there. Basically the idea is the piston rings harden some on longer rides so not letting the engine warm up to much for long beds in the rings better
my take on this topic is (basically): for first 50-100h it wont make big difference (if not done break-in). but if ur not much for regular service the blow by will be somewhat significantly reduced for them +hourse and your horsepower wont decrease too much. so a normal or a somewhat "softer" break in period will thank some later. good for piston rings and cylinder to wear in... not everyone is sponsored :D im all for this normal to softer riding during break-in. not, all but aggressive break-in.
They gotta come out with a sandpaper treadmill....strap in the bike for an hour. Do aggressive leans while playing with the revs. Change the oil, clean the shiny rubber dust up with the vacuum, and good to go.
apart from the quotes in the vid, the only other stuff i found that could be considered remotely scientific is that after doing this vid i found a report where a bike magazine ran two identical bikes in with two techniques and then stripped them down and measured everything... no difference.
I go 5000 miles keeping it under 3500 rpm. My buddy picked up a sweet z900 and has the ride it and don't bother with break in style....never seen either of them again.
It seems to me that if a certain type of engine break in actually made a significant difference, there wouldn't be so much controversy. Instead, you have a bunch of people saying one thing, a bunch of people saying the opposite, and a bunch of data that doesn't seem to point one way or the other.
Good summary. It looks as though it simply doesn't matter in the vast majority of cases, but some riders get worked up over why one method MUST be right... probably a bit similar to religions or political beliefs lol.
Two 73 year olds and one 83 year old just got back from a wonderful adventure in Oregon. The 83 year old is riding a Honda 650 he purchased after selling his T7. A little more cautious but still smiling! 😊
That's great! XR650L? I've always figured it makes sense to get lighter bikes as we get older. My old man is the exception. He refuses to get anything smaller than a Goldwing but had to stop riding as he could barely hold it up at traffic lights. 😢
I've drowned the bike twice during break-in, does that count as the heat cycle? Mineral oil is a good bet though, especially if you are too lazy to check the water depth, since you'll be changing it soon enough anyway.
LYW. Here's a good video topic: jump starting. My owner's club chat is very divided on this. Some say you don't want to do this because you'll cause a surge and break something electrical -- the most feared gremlin any of the oldies can warn us newbs about. A small minority (maybe just me) says there's a difference between a voltage source and a charger: a charger pumps current into a system, and too much can damage things, but a voltage source only supplies the current drawn as predicted by ohm's law, so connecting 12V (fish) in parallel with your existing 12V(fish) battery won't hurt anything. What's the real truth?
@@crosstrainingadventure Thanks, I have had a look around but there are people saying they didn't start till 2017 as well.. thanks for the reply though !
ANOTHER POINT: NO ZERO NONE motorcycle manufacturers will ever risk the liability of telling people to ride hard on a brand new bike they don't know, and especially not to "ride it like they stole it". Such advice just ain't EVER gonna happen, no matter how true it is. Sure, seasoned riders are going to do this, they have no problem because they are used to different bikes, and can automatically adjust and cope with getting on a bike they have never ridden before, as long as it's at least in a familiar class to what they are used to. I "rode it like I stole it" and then did an oil change at 30 minuts, when I bought my new XT250 a few years ago, but I have been riding very similar bikes for decades, and it's not a challenging bike, I wasn't going to kill myself in the process. That simply does not apply to a first time or small bike rider buying some big crotch rocket, they stand a very good chance of serious injury or death, and if the fucking lawyers can show a judge that the owner's manual told them to do it, there will be hell to pay. The only advice we'll ever get from the manufacturer will be ride gentle to normal, any alternatives are too much risk to them, because the world is full of idiots, and some of them buy bikes.
They put the engine on a simtester. It turns the engine over at a lower speed than normal whilst oil is circulating until the power required to turn the engine levels off.
and i didn't even plan it that way... 😊 one of the strange things with video editing is those moments where strange little things like that happen without any planning.
@@crosstrainingadventure Funny that you didn't even plan it that way, because it was so perfectly timed. :D By the way, I hope your recovery keeps on going as good as it did so far! :-)
The manual says "Avoid full throttle for the first 1,500kms. First service is at 1,500kms. Check valves at 15,000kms." They're either very sure of their engines or it's something they do to make sales on parts.
It shouldn't be that much work because there are several Chinese manufacturers buying the rights to old Japanese engines to make them comply with Euro 5 standards, see the example of the Mash X Ride 650 that uses the Honda Dominator engine to which an oil radiator has been added and Injection, this example is one of the best because is Air/Oil cooled. Perhaps the Japanese are already turning the page on combustion.
These rules looks like: "different types of sex with new girlfriend". Be gentle and live together for a long time or hard break in and make impression :))
I watched a mate do a drunk burnout on a ktm 300 at 2am in zero degree temp with about 10 seconds of warmup and it seems fine. Don't worry he was wearing socks and safety thongs. I was waiting for the cold seizure that never came. Engines aren't as fragile as we all think.
most bike dealers will shit in ya pocket just so you damage it and go back to them and spend $$$$$$$$$$ then they hit you up for $$,$$.$$ in parts and labour for things you didn't need.
So here’s a thought, the engineers that designed the motorcycle might be more knowledgeable than all of us 🤔, a radical idea might be to read the owners manual that comes with that new bike, and follow its instructions for break in 😆👍.
maybe and maybe not. what you are forgetting is that some manuals for older bikes still follow the very old style break in which might possibly result in glazing. some argue manufacturers do this to minimize chances you'll push the engine and maybe cause issues within the warranty period, who knows. if you blindly follow the manufacturers you will also be restricted to only using the brand of oil they recommend (and usually because they get a kickback).
@@crosstrainingadventure also pending lawsuits for if something goes wrong while running in a bike aggressively or less than aggressively while following manufacturers run in schedule
Most owner's manuals will have an engine break-in section. Instead creating your own religion about how to break-in your engine, just read your owner's manual. Your owner's manual is the bible for your engine.
creating a new religion... 😂 these various strategies have been around for a long time daniel, as stated this was simply an attempt to find a bit more evidence. you probably haven't heard all the arguments for why an owner's manual should not necessarily be trusted.
@@crosstrainingadventure The same people who designed and built their own engines, are the same people making their owner's manuals. There for, I'll take their word over yours any day.
@@danielc5205 wrong Daniel. The people creating the engines write the manuals in a way that will function but also appease manufacturer's lawyers so a lawsuit doesn't head their way. No liability.
FURTHER NOTES! A viewer raised an interesting point. On some modern bikes the dealer can get readings from the ECU and see if you followed the break in recommendations. It's always possible this could be used to deny a warranty claim? Food for thought!
sounds like something a Euro brand like KTM, BMW or Ducati might do... I am aware that Mercedes (I know, not a bike seller but still) actually knows exactly how hard the car is run whenever they take it in for service... and depending on the car will actually contact the dealer itself to schedule an appointment on your behalf... some even come and get the car w/o you having to do a thing. So the idea that one of them would be unwilling to warranty something if you don't follow it break-in protocols is entirely within the realm of possibilities.
The "heat cycle" is the most misunderstood... Its not that the parts need to heat cycle to "toughen" but rather as the moving/touching parts are wearing from rough to smooth, the heat they generate can be excessive enough to change their metallurgy causing premature wear patterns in the future. Giving the parts ample time to wear together without generating excess heat is key to longevity.
Your dead right and a great explanation. You must be a mechanic or engineer ?
Honda's Shop manual for a CB300R literally states:
During the first 300 miles (500km) of running follow these guidelines to ensure your vehicle's future reliability and performance.
- avoid full throttle starts and rapid acceleration
- avoid hard braking and rapid down-shift
- Ride conservatively
no hard numbers other than 500km.
This is about liability not performance or function
The way I've done it after a rebuild is to get it warmed up just mainly to check for leaks. Then nurse it for almost a lap. After that I just ride it like normal mostly because I lack the patience/impulse control.
I follow the Slaven's Racing technique. Go easy for about a mile, then it's good to go.
I've owned a couple of identical bikes over the years, same model and year. One always performs better than another. The ones that ran stronger were broken In by me using old school technique: keep changing rpm as much as you can, keep revs low until valve adjustment.
What u mean keeps revs low until valve adjustment! When are the valves adjusted on an new bike, didn’t know that was a thing
I've never owned a new bike, only purchased used two strokes. I've rebuilt a few motors with new bearings, pistons, nikisil plating etc etc. With the rebuilds I just ran a bit more 2t oil in the fuel, let the bike warm up for a minute or two then rode it normally with 5 litres of fuel. Once done I would replace the gearbox oil & run the normal premix ratio.
The best way is a deliberate hard break in (varying hard accel and hard engine braking) with a super early oil change, it seats the seals better and will let the motor make more HP. Flogging it does help, you need to seat the seals :)
In 2009 I bought a brand new EU version of the Suzuki Boulevard C50 (the C800/VL800), and I did the break-in +/- per the manual. Meaning, I rode with half the throttle for the first 500km and 3/4 throttle for the following 500km. Yes, ocassionally, I did top speed, just to get all the metal shaving out of the system, get rid of potential carbon, etc.. And maybe a bit of a superstition on my part - I did not want the engine to "get lazy" 🙂 Then, at around the 1k km mark, I did the service check & maintenance (again, per manual) and what a suprise, aftwreards the bike ran for 11 more season (*) perfectly fine, without a single issue - and for ten of those seasons, only regular maintenance was needed. Only when going into its last season, I had to recharge the battery (for the first time), but that was it.
The VL800 is a superb bike anyway, I need to add.
(*) I had to sell it in December 2020 and I did that to the same dealer I bought it from, who then sold it to a new owner in early 2021 - and to my knowledge, that new owner enjoys its problem-free state of operations up till this day
Agree, in my opinion a break in period is mostly about making sure that everything it put right together and no parts has a "0ne out of a million problem" you don't want to find at max rpm while the surfaces of the moving parts get a chance to rub off the edges.
I just did shitty wheelies for the first hr then an oil change and back to the usual terrible riding that the new bike didn't fix, turns out the shop lied to me, they said It would make me an amazing rider!!
Well I just ride the bike like I would for a hour or so and then change the oil and ride the bike some more and I change my oil every 2 to 3 rides. I haven't had any problems yet and I have owned my 1991 cr125r since it was new. Great video!!
Good video. I am about to purchase a new motorcycle in a month and it is a 2.5 hr drive from my house. Going to avoid the highway and do a moderate break in. Thinking about stopping 2-3 times during the trip then get an oil change once I reach my destination
Great subject/video, Barry! I'm currently in 'break-in' with the new T7 now. My plan is to stick to the manufacturer's recommendations thru brake-in and warranty (including lube and filters), then open up the possibilities! Doesn't feel very limiting as I am adjusting to a new and very different bike as well....loving it so far! Cheers, and heal well!
it doesn't feel to heavy, allen? in the old days the old XT600 was very similar in weight to the honda and suzuki but then they really packed on the pounds with the 660 models and leading eventually to the T7. it probably makes it more stable on the road but i wouldn't want to try lifting up a fallen one. i hearing rave reviews though... 😊
@@crosstrainingadventure Yes it is quite a bit heavier than my old DR 350, but I've been watching the coming of the T7 for about 3 years now and it ticks all the boxes for me and the kind of riding I want to do, well into the future, which is a combination of work commuting, trail , and some long adventure rides. So far I can tell you that this bike has very good manners on tarmac, gravel and two track, with plenty of torque throughout. The bike is very well balanced, and it seems it's biggest limitation is me! My goal is that over time I will come close to being able to ride it to it's potential, and that will great adventure!! :-) My broken leg is healed enough that I'm back on the pegs. hope your healing is coming along well! Cheers!
Being an Aircraft maintenance engineer by trade, I will stick to the manufactures recommendations . Aircraft, vehicles and motorcycles are no different.
If the manufacturer says, only rev to x amount of revs for the first thousands kays or whatever, do what they say. If they say don’t ride off until your oil temp is at 50 degrees C, do that as well. Engineers who design these engines are the ones inputting into the manual.
Pretty simple, just follow the procedure.
You have a nice theory, but it is wrong in this case, for a very specific reason: motorbikes are frequently bought by untrained idiots, who will shift blame for their own incompetence onto manufacturers, and greedy lawyers will encourage them. In sharp contrast, aircraft are bought, operated and maintained by highly trained and rigorously qualified people. If the correct procedure for breaking in an aircraft engine is to operate it aggressively at power levels that require advanced skill to handle, then that is exactly what the aircraft manufacturer will specify, with exactly ZERO fear of being blamed for some idiot following those instructions and getting hurt. The responsibility is 100% on the owners / operators to follow the specified procedure, even if that entails finding a senior pilot with the exceptional skills required. Meanwhile back on the ground, in a world full of idiots and motorcycles, can you imagine a bike manual specifying a "ride it like you stole it" break in procedure, including the stipulation that this must be carried out by a rider with at least 100 hours of prior riding time on the same model bike? The answer is that even if the truth is "ride it like you stole it", no motorcycle manufacturer EVER is going to print that truth in the owner's manual.
Another note is usually if you compare break in procedures within a manufacturer's range of bikes they have the same exact rpm limits on 125cc to 1000cc bikes.
On my 2023 KLR, I’m going up the canyon, then let it cool. Go down the canyon, let it cool. Repeat with next canyon, running up the power and letting off. Change oil at 50miles, 150, 500, then every 3K. May be excessive, but it at least makes me feel like I tried to get a good ring seal. Tires, get em warm, let em cool. Scrub em on asphalt first, tgen dirt canyons.
My BMW GS1200 manual states (Rider_s_Manual_BMW_R_1200_GS_2008.pdf) at page 154; Engine Oils - please see the quote below:
BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic
oils for the first 10,000 km. Please do not
hesitate to contact your authorised BMW
Motorrad dealer if you have any questions relating
the choice of a suitable engine oil for your
motorcycle.
-- Keep up the good
I do what they call a cold break in where you start the bike immediately ride it for a short distance let it cool and repeat 3 times. Just riding like normal most the time but goosing it up here and there. Basically the idea is the piston rings harden some on longer rides so not letting the engine warm up to much for long beds in the rings better
Yep, we covered heat cycling in the vid, Tenza. There doesn't seem to be any evidence for it working... not that we could find anyway.
@@crosstrainingadventure not technically heat cycling because if you touch the engine and it’s warm you got it to hot
my take on this topic is (basically): for first 50-100h it wont make big difference (if not done break-in). but if ur not much for regular service the blow by will be somewhat significantly reduced for them +hourse and your horsepower wont decrease too much. so a normal or a somewhat "softer" break in period will thank some later. good for piston rings and cylinder to wear in... not everyone is sponsored :D im all for this normal to softer riding during break-in. not, all but aggressive break-in.
They gotta come out with a sandpaper treadmill....strap in the bike for an hour. Do aggressive leans while playing with the revs. Change the oil, clean the shiny rubber dust up with the vacuum, and good to go.
I find it interesting that this is still a debate and guesswork. There has to be some engineer somewhere who has a defined answer to this.
apart from the quotes in the vid, the only other stuff i found that could be considered remotely scientific is that after doing this vid i found a report where a bike magazine ran two identical bikes in with two techniques and then stripped them down and measured everything... no difference.
@@crosstrainingadventure thanks for the research
Someone ask Gordon Murray
same one!
I go 5000 miles keeping it under 3500 rpm. My buddy picked up a sweet z900 and has the ride it and don't bother with break in style....never seen either of them again.
It seems to me that if a certain type of engine break in actually made a significant difference, there wouldn't be so much controversy. Instead, you have a bunch of people saying one thing, a bunch of people saying the opposite, and a bunch of data that doesn't seem to point one way or the other.
Good summary. It looks as though it simply doesn't matter in the vast majority of cases, but some riders get worked up over why one method MUST be right... probably a bit similar to religions or political beliefs lol.
run your engine without any oil, it will break in few seconds.
Two 73 year olds and one 83 year old just got back from a wonderful adventure in Oregon. The 83 year old is riding a Honda 650 he purchased after selling his T7. A little more cautious but still smiling! 😊
That's great! XR650L? I've always figured it makes sense to get lighter bikes as we get older. My old man is the exception. He refuses to get anything smaller than a Goldwing but had to stop riding as he could barely hold it up at traffic lights. 😢
What tires should I use while breaking in my new bike?
the brand is irrelevant, the imporant thing is smearing them with the correct engine oil to keep them fresh
@@crosstrainingadventure mineral oil is best for this
@@crosstrainingadventure 🤣🤣🤣
Get oil samples if your worried.
It's what industry does
I've drowned the bike twice during break-in, does that count as the heat cycle? Mineral oil is a good bet though, especially if you are too lazy to check the water depth, since you'll be changing it soon enough anyway.
twice should be enough. you only need to do it once though if you pour mud directly into the spark plug hole then kick the engine over a few times.
@@crosstrainingadventure Sadly, no kick starter on the newer AJP models, so I had to go the "long way round".
LYW. Here's a good video topic: jump starting. My owner's club chat is very divided on this. Some say you don't want to do this because you'll cause a surge and break something electrical -- the most feared gremlin any of the oldies can warn us newbs about. A small minority (maybe just me) says there's a difference between a voltage source and a charger: a charger pumps current into a system, and too much can damage things, but a voltage source only supplies the current drawn as predicted by ohm's law, so connecting 12V (fish) in parallel with your existing 12V(fish) battery won't hurt anything. What's the real truth?
I don't know any electrical engineers for this one... I did do a vid on the enduro channel about how to start bikes without a kickstarter.
Is dedicated brake in oil with high zinc of any real benefit?
Nobody seems to recommend it with modern engines
What year did they start locktiteing the NSU bolts on the dr650?
Im buying a 2015 model and wondering if i need to check them?
thanks!!
i think it was 2012 and on? check the pinned first comment on our DR650 known issues vid on our adventure channel, i put the info there.
@@crosstrainingadventure Thanks, I have had a look around but there are people saying they didn't start till 2017 as well..
thanks for the reply though !
Its 2017
Great video mate
Thanks Filip
ANOTHER POINT: NO ZERO NONE motorcycle manufacturers will ever risk the liability of telling people to ride hard on a brand new bike they don't know, and especially not to "ride it like they stole it".
Such advice just ain't EVER gonna happen, no matter how true it is. Sure, seasoned riders are going to do this, they have no problem because they are used to different bikes, and can automatically adjust and cope with getting on a bike they have never ridden before, as long as it's at least in a familiar class to what they are used to. I "rode it like I stole it" and then did an oil change at 30 minuts, when I bought my new XT250 a few years ago, but I have been riding very similar bikes for decades, and it's not a challenging bike, I wasn't going to kill myself in the process. That simply does not apply to a first time or small bike rider buying some big crotch rocket, they stand a very good chance of serious injury or death, and if the fucking lawyers can show a judge that the owner's manual told them to do it, there will be hell to pay.
The only advice we'll ever get from the manufacturer will be ride gentle to normal, any alternatives are too much risk to them, because the world is full of idiots, and some of them buy bikes.
excellent informative vid,well done guys
Thanks Graeme 👍
2:20 ... "A dead run" - Got me on that one :D
They put the engine on a simtester. It turns the engine over at a lower speed than normal whilst oil is circulating until the power required to turn the engine levels off.
@@jonnoMoto Thanks for the explanation, but I meant that there was a dead animal on the road just when he said "dead run".
and i didn't even plan it that way... 😊 one of the strange things with video editing is those moments where strange little things like that happen without any planning.
@@crosstrainingadventure Funny that you didn't even plan it that way, because it was so perfectly timed. :D By the way, I hope your recovery keeps on going as good as it did so far! :-)
Follow the instructions in the manual would be the best advice you could ever take
The manual says "Avoid full throttle for the first 1,500kms. First service is at 1,500kms. Check valves at 15,000kms." They're either very sure of their engines or it's something they do to make sales on parts.
Great advice.
It shouldn't be that much work because there are several Chinese manufacturers buying the rights to old Japanese engines to make them comply with Euro 5 standards, see the example of the Mash X Ride 650 that uses the Honda Dominator engine to which an oil radiator has been added and Injection, this example is one of the best because is Air/Oil cooled. Perhaps the Japanese are already turning the page on combustion.
Change the oil after one hour?
It depends how obsessive you want to get about it all. Most of us just stick with the manufacturer's recommendations.
These rules looks like: "different types of sex with new girlfriend". Be gentle and live together for a long time or hard break in and make impression :))
now there's an interesting analogy, ale 😂
I watched a mate do a drunk burnout on a ktm 300 at 2am in zero degree temp with about 10 seconds of warmup and it seems fine. Don't worry he was wearing socks and safety thongs.
I was waiting for the cold seizure that never came. Engines aren't as fragile as we all think.
Africa twin for life!!!!!!!!😝👍
most bike dealers will shit in ya pocket just so you damage it and go back to them and spend $$$$$$$$$$ then they hit you up for $$,$$.$$ in parts and labour for things you didn't need.
Minute of silence for those who believe in "hard break ins"
😂
So here’s a thought, the engineers that designed the motorcycle might be more knowledgeable than all of us 🤔, a radical idea might be to read the owners manual that comes with that new bike, and follow its instructions for break in 😆👍.
Yes I asked a good beer Brewer what has secret was and he said follow the instructions
maybe and maybe not. what you are forgetting is that some manuals for older bikes still follow the very old style break in which might possibly result in glazing. some argue manufacturers do this to minimize chances you'll push the engine and maybe cause issues within the warranty period, who knows. if you blindly follow the manufacturers you will also be restricted to only using the brand of oil they recommend (and usually because they get a kickback).
@@crosstrainingadventure also pending lawsuits for if something goes wrong while running in a bike aggressively or less than aggressively while following manufacturers run in schedule
the best way to brake in a new bike is to follow the manual . the manufacturer knows beter
Yup, let it warm up, run it through the gears, rev it out here and there. Then again ive never owned a new bike...
Ride the crap out of it and don’t worry
“Dead run”. I see what you did there.
Most owner's manuals will have an engine break-in section. Instead creating your own religion about how to break-in your engine, just read your owner's manual. Your owner's manual is the bible for your engine.
creating a new religion... 😂 these various strategies have been around for a long time daniel, as stated this was simply an attempt to find a bit more evidence. you probably haven't heard all the arguments for why an owner's manual should not necessarily be trusted.
@@crosstrainingadventure The same people who designed and built their own engines, are the same people making their owner's manuals. There for, I'll take their word over yours any day.
@@danielc5205 wrong Daniel. The people creating the engines write the manuals in a way that will function but also appease manufacturer's lawyers so a lawsuit doesn't head their way. No liability.