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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2017
- Instagram: SeanS54
How to change the front control arms on your BMW E46 M3. The ball joints on the front control arms will wear out especially on a high mileage car. I went through the process of changing the front control arm bushing, tie rods, steering rack (Z3 1.8L upgrade), steering coupler, sway bar, sway bar end links and finally the front control arms (w/ new ball joints). The front suspension is nice and firm now.
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Nice work Sean, I've previously replaced the bushes only on my old 330, this has given me the confidence to now replace arms and bushes on my current M3, and the correct tools to do it with. Thanks mate.
You're welcome! Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Excellent, thanks Sean!!
Excellent video, thank you!!
Nice video!
I've had good luck using a floor jack to elevate the control arm, at the point when trying to mount the bushing brackets back onto the car/dowel sleeves.
Great suggestion. That would have been my next step if I couldn't get it up. You have to get creative when you're doing DIY's solo. LOL
Hey Sean, thanks for the great vid, I just finished this job today, everything got bolted on with no hassles, yet right after putting everything back on it start to grind like insane especially when accelerating, have you seen something like that before? the handling feels fine yet I can feel it pulls abit to right
Sean Great Video!
I did consider doing this job myself but glad I went to Redline BMW. WHY? My stock exhaust was melting my right poly bushing...added heat tape...NOPE! I buy new set of Powerflex bushings, Lemforder control arms to fit Redline discovered the engine mounts ($86) rubber were old & squashed flatter. This problem lowered the engine/header/exhaust (1in/113k) very close to the lolipop control arm bushing, so it was heating up the bushing and melting it. If your SMG shifter is sitting low...replace your engine mounts first, or your right bushing will be toasted for sure...
Thank you Sean, key info was really helpful. I suspect you used the 21 mm wrench to guess at torque on the inner ball joint, but would love to know the mechanics secret to get a real torque wrench on that nut without dropping the subframe. Thanks for posting this.
I think you can use several long extensions and a flex socket and try getting it standing from the engine bay. Not sure it'll work but worth a shot.
Its called a CROWS FOOT torque wrench
How do you like those Poly inserts for the Thrust Bushing?? Stiff ? Harsh?
Hey Sean, can you make a video on how to change 335i front lower control arm's to the M3 spec replacement?
Sorry, I added M3 arms to my 335i a few years ago but didn't record it. I highly recommend the M3 suspension bits on the 335i. It'll give you more camber and be more responsive since the bushings are more firm. Here's someone else's DIY that I followed awhile back: www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788761
would m3 FCA bolt on non m e46?
What oil cooler and radiator are you using?
2:55 Aren't you worried the replacement isn't the exact shape or probably not the same material (aluminum) as OEM ?
Doing this right now.. fuck that top bolt on the subframe lol
You made it look easy when in fact is isn’t especially guesstimating 56lb pounds in the inner ball joint
If you don't have brake ducts take the backing plates off. Much better cooling on the track.
No aftermarket brake ducts yet. Are you referring to the brake rotor back plates? The back plates is a heat shield for the tire rods, ball joints and struts. If I were to do it, I'll probably just cut the top half and leave the bottom half.
Thanks Sean, What make are your headers?
Status Gruppe.
subbed for more diy on the ///m
thanks!