I really appreciate you posting this, I was able to fix my son’s xt225 using this method, did not lose a drop of fluid. He will be able to take his last ride with me tomorrow morning, before he leaves for college, thanks for saving that memory for us!
The hydraulic seals in DOT 3, 4 & 5.1 brake systems are invariably made from EPDM. This seal material is NOT compatible with mineral oils and greases. Such as WD40, lithium grease, engine oil etc. Use red rubber grease or the same DOT fluid in the system to lubricate the piston.
I used high temp brake grease on the pins of my car’s caliper. It caused the rubber to swell and brakes to stick. Upon re reading reviews on Amazon seems others were mad it didn’t carry that warning. Anyway, a guy recommended super lube silicone grease for all rubber brake related items. Been using it ever since. Works great for rubber trim, rubber washers in the garden hose…. Anything rubber, it softens and lubes with no side affects.
I didn't have any silicone or rubber grease, your comment saved me from using copper grease and gave me the idea to use the brake fluid which worked a treat, my brother needs his bike to get to college tomorrow and I've managed to get his brake fixed so thanks a lot for the info, really helped me out
I did this and 100% better now. My front brake was sticking so bad, it would lock up the front tire when stopping hard. 2009 Suzuki Boulevard C50, 18k miles. I opted to remove the whole caliper. Took it apart, cleaned everything with carb cleaner (warning did take some paint flakes off the caliper). Cleaned every part that had extremely thick brake dust built up under the calipers, and other parts. Added new caliper grease on all moving parts, bled my air line and Wholla! 100% full power without the extreme risk of locking my front brake! Thank you! Completed the whole thing with trip to AutoZone in about 3 hours. Paid $15 for grease and DOT 4 Brake fluid
seriously ive been trying to get brake pressure on my 83 maxim for weeks now, ive replaced the master cylinder and was about to rebuild the whole caliper but i guess i should try this
I couldn’t help but laugh 😂 at the timing of this... FACT!...Riding a motorcycle with a sticking front brake is very dangerous....Screen cuts to him with a busted forehead! 😄😂
I would consider this an emergency repair. If the piston is that dirty it has probably damaged the seals, and there is more debris floating around the caliper. It's best to spend a little extra time to remove the piston, clean the caliper, and replace the seals in a complete rebuild. It's a good skills to have if you ride vintage bikes.
He is correct about one thing sticky front brakes are dangerous! And that is the best reason to not take advice from this video. Never put any oil base lubricants on your seals unless you want them to swell up and cause more problems. It is super easy to rebuild a caliper and very inexpensive. And also super easy to bleed your brakes so watch some more videos.
Thanks for sharing its a good quick fix to try before you go to all the hassles of a full rebuild. Here's a tip put masking tape onto the top pad of the C clamp so it doesn't mark or scratch the outside of the calliper. Cheers
some good advice and some not so good. worth telling people to block off the other caliper when pushing one piston back in or they will end up like you did with one piston popping out and pissing fluid out. check out the caliper in the background at the end lol
Damn! Thanks so much for this video. I just installed new tires on my 02’ Yamaha Road Star and my rear break was having this issue. I’m going to fix this this afternoon 🙌🏼
I would either get a rubber grease or a silicon grease, as normal bearing greases will break down/ perish, the rubber components of you breaks, this would be very ungood for the calliper seals.
If your bike is super old, I recommend replacing the seals and cleaning out the bore itself. If the piston has pitting/deep holes, replace those too. Be sure to diagnose if it’s not your brake lines that have failed
Probably better to use a piece of Emery cloth and lightly sand the caliper piston the wiping it off then lubricating it as it goes back in with brake fluid, just my own opinion
if it's contaminating the brake fluid then your piston seals (not the dust seals) are broken and need replacing. I wouldn't use lithium grease though as it eventually eats away at the seals. Red rubber grease is good as it doesn't do that.
My front caliper(only have one) decided to seize today while I was riding. Awesome. Had to disconnect the main line and use the rear brake to get home. I'd recommend flushing your brake system and replacing the caliper. That's what I'm doing, rather fix it the right way. Otherwise, you're advising people to skip crucial steps in repairing their brake systems.
That would be sound advice IF there were broken or worn parts or if you had knowledge that the brake system had not been flushed in a while. The problem here is simply a sticking caliper piston due to crud. The piston does not appear to be pitted and there is no sign of broken parts. No problem doing it your way, but it appears that it is not necessary and would simply be a waste of money.
It all depends on what your life is worth, I agree this is an ok tip (the video) but you have the right idea either rebuilding or replacing and knowing your brakes and you have a much better chance at longevity
Nice temporary fix, but if there is corrosion on the exposed part of the piston, there is probably more on the unexposed surfaces and the cylinder. Plus, for corrosikn to occur at all probably means the brake fluid needs replacing. Better to do it right the first time. Take it all apart, polish the entire piston AND cylinder, new seals, clean out brake reservoir, and flush the system until clear fluid comes out.
Got a rear piston (1 of 2) on my cb750 Supersport that won't go back in. Gonna give this a try before taking the whole thing off and apart and bleeding the line and so forth. Thanks man.
So I tried this "quick fix" , turned out the brake pump was the one getting stuck. I had to disassemble the whole brake pump and clean the inner piston, all via youtube tutorials here and there. This "quick fix" turned into a 3 hour job. Fixed it though.
Well done and to the point one morning I took off on my shadow only to turn back around a few blocks later turning into my alley I dropped it because my front brake locked up All was well but yeah frozen pistons on brake not good 😊
Thanks for this video man, however mine was the one time out of 10 I pulled the boot back in Italy fell apart and then I looked inside of the cavity of the caliper to find it was practically like rusted sludge... oh well. Lol
I was once 500 miles from home and my rear brake wouldnt release. Disk was hot enough to light a match. After an hour or so, it released and I finished the ride with front brake only - in a downpour. When home had problems getting caliper off - the disk warped so bad, almost like a bowl!
Thanks, rebuilt and sanded the pistons on a 125 and it barely did anything, as if it doesn't care about the silicone grease. Gonna see if this does the trick, thanks!
Dude i HIGHLY recommend to NOT ALLOW YOUR CALIPER HANGING FROM THE HOSE. Tie it so the weight is NOT supported just by the hose! Please. By doing so you can generate the failure while riding. Be aware.
I have a sticky brake on my KZ1000 (z1000 in europe), and it started to squeel like pig the other day. Just used this method end ready to give it a test drive. If the dics doesnt get warm like before then i guess it work. Thanks for the tips and advise !
Just did this..i all ready knew how but wanted to see other peoples thoughts .. Mine stuck today and was smoking but. I used wd40 and a block of wood and hammer. Got it unstuck and saved 50$ in parts
I’ll give this a like only cause you popped the other piston out of the caliper when you depressed it. Should’ve had old pads or the new pads in or that wrench you use.
Isn't it moisture in the brake system that causes the corrosion ?? Wouldn't it be good to open up the caliper to completely clean it of all foreign substances ? I might need a larger sledge hammer for mine...
I just picked up a 03 gsxr 750 n the back pads were spent. I git new ones went to i stall them n when done the brake dont hrab or move the piston at all. I bled them and changed the fluid. Im pretty sure they worked before the old ones. But i expanded the piston like u do a car with a c clamp and metal plate. I disnt go too far or un even at all but wondering if damaged it. The brake foot lever is stupid easy to press way down and dont move the caliper piston at all
Enjoued the vid . Gna sub and hopefully learn a bunch more from them . Been riding for yrs but never do my own stuff in the bikes untill past yr or 2 . I much rather do my self and learn how.
Not exactly what I was looking for but similar. My problem is, i think, a sticking back brake. I tilt the bike on it's stand and have someone spin the wheel and the wheel isn't free spinning much. I won't actually spin freely and there is a lot of fine black buildup on the rim. I'm guessing I can try this method to start with. Thanks.
mine engages the front brakes the levers sticks, whenever i bleed it a little the problems get away, but it always comes back whenever i ride a couple of miles. i never removed the calipers before. i hope its rusty piston or what not.
So weird. My electric moped is almost half the size of this motorcycle. It's a limited-speed moped basically, further limited to comply with Ontario e-bike laws to 32 km/h. However, a flick of a switch will make it go to 60 km/h. And this is a large size, full speed motorcycle. And my front brake is almost 3 times the size by comparison! Now I have a problem because I cannot find a replacement, even motorcycle front brakes have much smaller than 8 cm apart mounting holes! You'd think a motorcycle will have larger brakes because of its weight and speed, but in this video - the brake appears to be unbelievably tiny.
i have a new motorcycle with only 15km on it,my front brakes are sticking can it be because its new and after some grinding it might become better?or im no making sence with my poor english
Buenas ,saludos desde Chile Tengo una TDM 900 2007 esta de suspension bien,motor de lujo ...la tengo desde nueva . Tengo el siguiente problema ,al sacar la moto desde el reposo da un tiron la rueda delantera ,luego se pasa . Levante la moto para ver el giro de la rueda e hice girarla con la mano ,da menos de una vuelta y se detiene . Le hice limpieza de capiler o pinzas ,limpie los pistones pero no cambie sellos porque no hay en el pais. Cambie liquido de frenos ,las pastillas estan buenas . Le saque las pinzas para ver si rodaba bien ,gira libre perfecto ,los discos no estan torcidos pero si tienen una pequeña reberba . Estoy esperando que las patillas que las vulcanize tomen la forma del disco a ver si se pasa . Ayuda por favor ...se agrece cualquier aporte
I would say it doubles the job. You then have to deal with draining and refilling brake fluid. Removing old seals and cleaning everything. Then you have to buy and fit new seals. Then you need to consider if you need to replace the pots, which on my bike it has 8 at the front.
@@Toms_Short_Movies you know this happens when you never change brake fluid ,i can bet my ass this guy is going to have leaking brakes . But whats a life compared to 100 dollars worth of brakeparts.....
It is best to do the job completely by removing the piston, replace the inner seal, clean everything, then while you're at it, take apart the master cylinder and clean it up and replace seals, and blow out the brake lines. Then re-assemble everything and bleed the brakes. This takes a while but it's worth the effort. However, is MUCH easier to just buy an old bike with mechanical drum brakes and not have to fool with hydraulic brakes.
Use a small piece of wood and a small dead blow hammer or a plastic headed hammer.. I do get the joke and your right lol, I meant this for the person who made the clip
Nice video. But i have a question. Is it really okay to grease up with any type of grease? I mean it will come in contact with brake fluid too by being pushed in. I remember doing same job on my car and it was really important to use specifik grease that is compatible with brake fluid.
Is there any way to know when you’re about to go too far in pushing the piston out? I’m guessing just eyeball the thickness of the caliper vs how far the piston has come out.
Surely rubber grease if there's rubber rings in there. Other grease will make the rings expand and cause all sorts of potential problems. My leaky forks caused the rubber rings to expand, I didn't notice for a week or two :(
Why not just go out and change the pistons all-together? They ARE pitted anyway. I would NEVER use any grease on any brake system. And NO, no copper on the back of you pad either!!!
Everyone has a solution for everything, what works for others might not work for you. I used high temperature resistant silicone on the backside when my brakepads kept squeeking, fixed the problem right away. Don't be quick to judge. Also some pistons are hard to come back, so why change something that's working?
Not same brand but similar situation with an Kawa -82 Tho it didn't want to go back in after cleaning it so decided to remove the piston fully to give the caliper a through-out cleaning as well with a brush. It looked like it hadn't been touched from the same year it left the factory, so changed the sealings as well.
Angel, the inner seal is a square cut o-ring, that gets deformed when the pressure from the master cylinder exerts fluid on the piston. When the pressure is released, the square o-ring naturally tries to return to its original state, essentially pulling the piston back with it. T.S. RACING
Be careful, don't do like he did and use lithium grease (Use only clean brake fluid to lube the piston). Any petroleum based lubricant will ruin the inner piston seal that is down in the bore. It's best to go ahead and remove the piston, clean it up with chrome polish as he showed, then clean out the bore, it may have a lot of gunk behind where the piston was. Then lube the bore with brake fluid only, put it all back together and bleed the brakes (sucks but it's the right way to do it).
![[กูเพิ่งซื้อมึงปิดหนี] 20 นาที ผมรีวิวเกมที่แย่ที่สุดในโลก CONCORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XhC-3q3Ii7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I really appreciate you posting this, I was able to fix my son’s xt225 using this method, did not lose a drop of fluid. He will be able to take his last ride with me tomorrow morning, before he leaves for college, thanks for saving that memory for us!
Can you help me my back brake is like that and i have the same bike
The hydraulic seals in DOT 3, 4 & 5.1 brake systems are invariably made from EPDM. This seal material is NOT compatible with mineral oils and greases. Such as WD40, lithium grease, engine oil etc. Use red rubber grease or the same DOT fluid in the system to lubricate the piston.
I used high temp brake grease on the pins of my car’s caliper. It caused the rubber to swell and brakes to stick. Upon re reading reviews on Amazon seems others were mad it didn’t carry that warning. Anyway, a guy recommended super lube silicone grease for all rubber brake related items. Been using it ever since. Works great for rubber trim, rubber washers in the garden hose…. Anything rubber, it softens and lubes with no side affects.
This comment just saved my ass. Was about to use copper grease on calipers.
I didn't have any silicone or rubber grease, your comment saved me from using copper grease and gave me the idea to use the brake fluid which worked a treat, my brother needs his bike to get to college tomorrow and I've managed to get his brake fixed so thanks a lot for the info, really helped me out
Exactly!
Silicone all the way
Good quality silicone grease is such a versatile thing, basically works anywhere.
I did this and 100% better now. My front brake was sticking so bad, it would lock up the front tire when stopping hard. 2009 Suzuki Boulevard C50, 18k miles. I opted to remove the whole caliper. Took it apart, cleaned everything with carb cleaner (warning did take some paint flakes off the caliper). Cleaned every part that had extremely thick brake dust built up under the calipers, and other parts. Added new caliper grease on all moving parts, bled my air line and Wholla! 100% full power without the extreme risk of locking my front brake! Thank you! Completed the whole thing with trip to AutoZone in about 3 hours. Paid $15 for grease and DOT 4 Brake fluid
Just fixed my caliper using your method today. Worked like a charm. Thank you for posting this. I have an 83 yamaha maxim. Keep up the good work.
seriously ive been trying to get brake pressure on my 83 maxim for weeks now, ive replaced the master cylinder and was about to rebuild the whole caliper but i guess i should try this
Lmao here to fix my caliper on the same bike 🏍
I couldn’t help but laugh 😂 at the timing of this... FACT!...Riding a motorcycle with a sticking front brake is very dangerous....Screen cuts to him with a busted forehead! 😄😂
Short sweet and to the point - no story telling or other time wasting nonsense. TkU - 1987 FJ1200 👍👍
I would consider this an emergency repair. If the piston is that dirty it has probably damaged the seals, and there is more debris floating around the caliper. It's best to spend a little extra time to remove the piston, clean the caliper, and replace the seals in a complete rebuild. It's a good skills to have if you ride vintage bikes.
Tried this fix on my -94 Virago 1100, but still sticking. Will order new seals and do a complete rebuild.
Agree. Especially the dust seal since it's the one responsible for movement. Want to check the bracket slider too, it's prone to stuck too
He is correct about one thing sticky front brakes are dangerous! And that is the best reason to not take advice from this video. Never put any oil base lubricants on your seals unless you want them to swell up and cause more problems. It is super easy to rebuild a caliper and very inexpensive. And also super easy to bleed your brakes so watch some more videos.
Very helpful no bulshit and straight to the point. Thank you.
Thank you for posting this! I have struggled with a sticking front brake for years and this helped me solve it in 15min!
White lithium will destroy rubber, use a silicone based lubricant instead.
Busted me up when you said to use a "sludge hammer" for extreme cases. Good video...
Thanks for sharing its a good quick fix to try before you go to all the hassles of a full rebuild. Here's a tip put masking tape onto the top pad of the C clamp so it doesn't mark or scratch the outside of the calliper. Cheers
some good advice and some not so good. worth telling people to block off the other caliper when pushing one piston back in or they will end up like you did with one piston popping out and pissing fluid out. check out the caliper in the background at the end lol
Nice pick up
HahahHaahahaha
Lol good eyes man.
The music was the icing on the cake
What time is this at? I can't see it lol
Damn! Thanks so much for this video. I just installed new tires on my 02’ Yamaha Road Star and my rear break was having this issue. I’m going to fix this this afternoon 🙌🏼
Just make sure any grease and oil is wiped off. Brake fluid works the same and less harmful to rubber
Try using a 0000 steel wool and tooth brush to apply the polish after the fact. It won't hurt the chrome.
You sound like Bakerxderek! My back piston was all caked with nasty and bone dry. All good to go now, and no more dragging. Thanks!
I would either get a rubber grease or a silicon grease, as normal bearing greases will break down/ perish, the rubber components of you breaks, this would be very ungood for the calliper seals.
I have never heard the word ungood before
@@Roger_Ramjet There are many things that are ungood, some things are more ungood than others.
If your bike is super old, I recommend replacing the seals and cleaning out the bore itself. If the piston has pitting/deep holes, replace those too. Be sure to diagnose if it’s not your brake lines that have failed
How do you know if it's failed brake lines?
Any lubricant other than brake fluid (especially petroleum based) contaminates the brake fluid, this is a no-no as far as Im concerned
How does it contaminate the brake fluid?
It doesn't get into the brake fluid.
michael barnhill petro oil base destroy the seals...
Probably better to use a piece of Emery cloth and lightly sand the caliper piston the wiping it off then lubricating it as it goes back in with brake fluid, just my own opinion
if it's contaminating the brake fluid then your piston seals (not the dust seals) are broken and need replacing. I wouldn't use lithium grease though as it eventually eats away at the seals. Red rubber grease is good as it doesn't do that.
Do you remove the pads first?
My front caliper(only have one) decided to seize today while I was riding. Awesome. Had to disconnect the main line and use the rear brake to get home.
I'd recommend flushing your brake system and replacing the caliper. That's what I'm doing, rather fix it the right way.
Otherwise, you're advising people to skip crucial steps in repairing their brake systems.
That would be sound advice IF there were broken or worn parts or if you had knowledge that the brake system had not been flushed in a while. The problem here is simply a sticking caliper piston due to crud. The piston does not appear to be pitted and there is no sign of broken parts. No problem doing it your way, but it appears that it is not necessary and would simply be a waste of money.
It all depends on what your life is worth, I agree this is an ok tip (the video) but you have the right idea either rebuilding or replacing and knowing your brakes and you have a much better chance at longevity
Apart from using WD40 to lubricate the piston, this is the simplest and fastest way I have seen to free seized front brakes. THANKS.
Nice temporary fix, but if there is corrosion on the exposed part of the piston, there is probably more on the unexposed surfaces and the cylinder. Plus, for corrosikn to occur at all probably means the brake fluid needs replacing. Better to do it right the first time. Take it all apart, polish the entire piston AND cylinder, new seals, clean out brake reservoir, and flush the system until clear fluid comes out.
"i gotta tell i got that chrome polish" & "sledgehammer of some sort" ohhh man the laughs
Got a rear piston (1 of 2) on my cb750 Supersport that won't go back in. Gonna give this a try before taking the whole thing off and apart and bleeding the line and so forth. Thanks man.
So I tried this "quick fix" , turned out the brake pump was the one getting stuck. I had to disassemble the whole brake pump and clean the inner piston, all via youtube tutorials here and there. This "quick fix" turned into a 3 hour job. Fixed it though.
Great video, I'll try it on my 1981 XS1100 rear brake! Thanks
Thanks dude - this saved me a real headache!
Well done and to the point one morning I took off on my shadow only to turn back around a few blocks later turning into my alley I dropped it because my front brake locked up
All was well but yeah frozen pistons on brake not good 😊
Very informative and well presented. Thanks Alex.
Awesome idea🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙 Thanks heaps mate for sharing. 🙏🙏🙏🇦🇺😎
I laughed when you used same can I just bought at wal Mart for same job on my 88' GW brakes, haha!
This is exactly what I was looking for.
I ate pavement when my shadow front caliper locked up. Replaced the whole system. Never want to go down like that again.
Thanks for this video man, however mine was the one time out of 10 I pulled the boot back in Italy fell apart and then I looked inside of the cavity of the caliper to find it was practically like rusted sludge... oh well. Lol
I was once 500 miles from home and my rear brake wouldnt release. Disk was hot enough to light a match. After an hour or so, it released and I finished the ride with front brake only - in a downpour. When home had problems getting caliper off - the disk warped so bad, almost like a bowl!
yeah welll just imagine how hot your engine was.....lucky you didnt blow it up ,or cause damage.
Always carry 10mm spanner
Cracking the bleed nipple normally releases pressure off pads with only little fluid release 👍
REMEMBER TO PUT A CLOTH ON YOUR TANK AS BRAKE FLUID WILL SPURT BACK OUT OF THE RESERVOIR WHEN YOU USE A CLAMP TO PUSH THE BRAKE PISTON BACK IN!!!!
GOOD IDEA TO HAVE A RAG ON THE TANK WHEN YOU OVER FILL THE MASTER THEN PUT THE COVER ON... AS DEMONSTRATED
Ws
Thanks, rebuilt and sanded the pistons on a 125 and it barely did anything, as if it doesn't care about the silicone grease.
Gonna see if this does the trick, thanks!
Toothbrush and brake cleaner works nicely too
My front brakes locked up yesterday in the bush on the cr500 couldn't push or move the bike until brakes cooled down a bit I think
Helped a lot thanks would try this before anything so easy and worked for me
Don't encourage anyone to use 'any old grease'. Petrolium-based grease shouldn't be anywhere near your seals.
Have you seen your other end caliber came out of its socket while you givin pressure 😊
Dude i HIGHLY recommend to NOT ALLOW YOUR CALIPER HANGING FROM THE HOSE.
Tie it so the weight is NOT supported just by the hose!
Please. By doing so you can generate the failure while riding. Be aware.
What would you do if chrome polish are not readily available? Will a rubbing compound work?
great guide, thanks man
Mine calliper won't come off any suggestions? It moves on the disc but just won't slide off
I have a sticky brake on my KZ1000 (z1000 in europe), and it started to squeel like pig the other day. Just used this method end ready to give it a test drive. If the dics doesnt get warm like before then i guess it work. Thanks for the tips and advise !
Just did this..i all ready knew how but wanted to see other peoples thoughts .. Mine stuck today and was smoking but. I used wd40 and a block of wood and hammer. Got it unstuck and saved 50$ in parts
Use brake fluid to clean pistons
Hay que sacar los pistones y hacer el service como corresponde, limpiar todo y cambiar orins, pastillas y fluido.
Informative and helpful, thanks mate
Also with that amount of corrosion and pitting on the piston you should be replacing them
I’ll give this a like only cause you popped the other piston out of the caliper when you depressed it. Should’ve had old pads or the new pads in or that wrench you use.
Just done my Cx brakes worked ok
Thanks man
Gonna give it a try tomorrow 👍
Isn't it moisture in the brake system that causes the corrosion ?? Wouldn't it be good to open up the caliper to completely clean it of all foreign substances ? I might need a larger sledge hammer for mine...
Lol 🤣😆
Awesome vid thanks for sharing helped me out loads 👍
I just picked up a 03 gsxr 750 n the back pads were spent. I git new ones went to i stall them n when done the brake dont hrab or move the piston at all. I bled them and changed the fluid. Im pretty sure they worked before the old ones. But i expanded the piston like u do a car with a c clamp and metal plate. I disnt go too far or un even at all but wondering if damaged it. The brake foot lever is stupid easy to press way down and dont move the caliper piston at all
Problem solved, thanks mate! 👍
Enjoued the vid . Gna sub and hopefully learn a bunch more from them . Been riding for yrs but never do my own stuff in the bikes untill past yr or 2 . I much rather do my self and learn how.
Not exactly what I was looking for but similar. My problem is, i think, a sticking back brake. I tilt the bike on it's stand and have someone spin the wheel and the wheel isn't free spinning much. I won't actually spin freely and there is a lot of fine black buildup on the rim. I'm guessing I can try this method to start with. Thanks.
mine engages the front brakes the levers sticks, whenever i bleed it a little the problems get away, but it always comes back whenever i ride a couple of miles. i never removed the calipers before. i hope its rusty piston or what not.
Please DO NOT use a sledge hammer to force the caliper to seperate. If its that bad the slide pins may need a good dose of molly grease.😬
You are a star buddy!!!
So weird. My electric moped is almost half the size of this motorcycle. It's a limited-speed moped basically, further limited to comply with Ontario e-bike laws to 32 km/h. However, a flick of a switch will make it go to 60 km/h. And this is a large size, full speed motorcycle. And my front brake is almost 3 times the size by comparison! Now I have a problem because I cannot find a replacement, even motorcycle front brakes have much smaller than 8 cm apart mounting holes! You'd think a motorcycle will have larger brakes because of its weight and speed, but in this video - the brake appears to be unbelievably tiny.
Worked on my 79 yamaha xs400. THANKS!
I hope this is my problem and not the master cylinder on my 78 triumph I hope it works!
this worked. thanks!
i have a new motorcycle with only 15km on it,my front brakes are sticking can it be because its new and after some grinding it might become better?or im no making sence with my poor english
Grease is petroleum it will severely react with brake fluid fyi
Buenas ,saludos desde Chile
Tengo una TDM 900 2007 esta de suspension bien,motor de lujo ...la tengo desde nueva .
Tengo el siguiente problema ,al sacar la moto desde el reposo da un tiron la rueda delantera ,luego se pasa .
Levante la moto para ver el giro de la rueda e hice girarla con la mano ,da menos de una vuelta y se detiene .
Le hice limpieza de capiler o pinzas ,limpie los pistones pero no cambie sellos porque no hay en el pais.
Cambie liquido de frenos ,las pastillas estan buenas .
Le saque las pinzas para ver si rodaba bien ,gira libre perfecto ,los discos no estan torcidos pero si tienen una pequeña reberba .
Estoy esperando que las patillas que las vulcanize tomen la forma del disco a ver si se pasa .
Ayuda por favor ...se agrece cualquier aporte
That way destroys the seals because of greese and cleaning chemicals. best way is dissambly the calipers to clean the piston
Excellent Video Man... ;0)
Did you consider removing the pistons and replacing the seals since your deep enough into the job?
I would say it doubles the job. You then have to deal with draining and refilling brake fluid. Removing old seals and cleaning everything. Then you have to buy and fit new seals. Then you need to consider if you need to replace the pots, which on my bike it has 8 at the front.
@@Toms_Short_Movies you know this happens when you never change brake fluid ,i can bet my ass this guy is going to have leaking brakes .
But whats a life compared to 100 dollars worth of brakeparts.....
It is best to do the job completely by removing the piston, replace the inner seal, clean everything, then while you're at it, take apart the master cylinder and clean it up and replace seals, and blow out the brake lines. Then re-assemble everything and bleed the brakes. This takes a while but it's worth the effort. However, is MUCH easier to just buy an old bike with mechanical drum brakes and not have to fool with hydraulic brakes.
REALLY?
A SLEDGE HAMMER OF SOME SORT????????????...
dude, it was a joke! jeez. he means an ak47.
@@quinnsmithy8778 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Use a small piece of wood and a small dead blow hammer or a plastic headed hammer..
I do get the joke and your right lol, I meant this for the person who made the clip
Thank you. Very useful.
Thanks very informative
Nice video. But i have a question. Is it really okay to grease up with any type of grease? I mean it will come in contact with brake fluid too by being pushed in. I remember doing same job on my car and it was really important to use specifik grease that is compatible with brake fluid.
It’s actually ideal to use whatever dot brake fluid it calls for as lube. That’s what I do and never had a problem
Same for the back brake?
I got some stuck rears on a Kawasaki z500 , guess what I’m having a go at now, thank you
99 out of ten times, thats pretty effective
My front disk brakes are rubbing on the left side, i have a yamaha vstar 1100, think it will work on that bike?
Is there any way to know when you’re about to go too far in pushing the piston out? I’m guessing just eyeball the thickness of the caliper vs how far the piston has come out.
When the piston about to hobble or oil leaks then its too far out
Are you sure about “any kind of grease”? I like DOT grease for my seals, it compatible with DOT 3/4 brake fluid
Surely rubber grease if there's rubber rings in there. Other grease will make the rings expand and cause all sorts of potential problems.
My leaky forks caused the rubber rings to expand, I didn't notice for a week or two :(
David Campbell you gotta use the right grease for the seals and the fluid
@@spotthedogg that's what I thought!
is easy as i see,, i have the same problem,.. espero que al armar todo de resultado.
This goes against everything I was taught in automotive technology school to get my ASE certification but it f***ing worked!
Why did you watch a video to learn how to do something that you already knew?
@@claireb8542 Re clarification. Or comparing knowledge. obviously
Of course you was taught to buy new parts..lol it worked on all the population but us country boys know better
Well according to the manual (and manufactures) the bike might as well explode if you don't change oil on given timeframe.
This helps a lot thank bud !
thank you for your vid!
Good try! Quicker intermediate fix! Why not? It helps, later u can take apart still, no?
Pretty slick boss
Grease is not what you want around any rubber components !
Why not just go out and change the pistons all-together? They ARE pitted anyway. I would NEVER use any grease on any brake system. And NO, no copper on the back of you pad either!!!
Everyone has a solution for everything, what works for others might not work for you.
I used high temperature resistant silicone on the backside when my brakepads kept squeeking, fixed the problem right away. Don't be quick to judge.
Also some pistons are hard to come back, so why change something that's working?
Thanks
I have a Yamaha 1982 Seca and just noticed the calipers are stuck. i will try you method and let you know if it worked
Did it work?
Not same brand but similar situation with an Kawa -82
Tho it didn't want to go back in after cleaning it so decided to remove the piston fully to give the caliper a through-out cleaning as well with a brush.
It looked like it hadn't been touched from the same year it left the factory, so changed the sealings as well.
Does anybody know what brings the piston back in ?
Nothing pulls them back as such. They get nudged back tenths of a millimetre by slight movement of the discs skimming the pads.
I believe it's the flex of the square oring that provides the sealing surface.
Angel, the inner seal is a square cut o-ring, that gets deformed when the pressure from the master cylinder exerts fluid on the piston. When the pressure is released, the square o-ring naturally tries to return to its original state, essentially pulling the piston back with it.
T.S. RACING
I really hope this is what is fucking up my brakes. Thank you so, so much!!!
Be careful, don't do like he did and use lithium grease (Use only clean brake fluid to lube the piston). Any petroleum based lubricant will ruin the inner piston seal that is down in the bore. It's best to go ahead and remove the piston, clean it up with chrome polish as he showed, then clean out the bore, it may have a lot of gunk behind where the piston was. Then lube the bore with brake fluid only, put it all back together and bleed the brakes (sucks but it's the right way to do it).
Good tips bruv
Ive done this 2ce to the same calipers on my 03 Yamaha Road Star midnight and it still sticks : (