Making a 3D Printed Alphabet Stamp Set + Storage Case
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
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The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month FREE TRIAL of Skillshare: skl.sh/morleykert06221
You always remember your first skillshare read 😂👏🏻
Haha I’ll take that as a compliment 😊
Quick tip when working with text in Fusion, try creating it in illustrator first. If you write the text. Create outlines, then use Shape Builder Unite it will give you just the outlines. Save as SVG, import to fusion and its good to go! It saves a lot of time. Letters like the ABE... become a single click rather than 2 or more clicks!
Oh man, I love your channel.
😊❤️
Great project idea mate, and congrats on a paid sponsor (and putting to good use your new sponsored machine!) Strength to strength!
I think a bevel and a dark wood stain would look really nice on the case. You could also try 3D printing a latch and handle.
I think that I would make multiple of the same letter in the slicer, and save it as a .3mf. This keeps the design simple and easier to change. You can then also have multiple .3mf files for different sets of letters (i.e. a scrabble distribution vs one of each, vs only the letters for a specific name, etc.)
I like the idea of using Scrabble distribution.
Simply fantastic. Wearing my merch while watching. Great work.
Thank you so much!
I waited the whole video for you to 3D print finger knobs for the end of the screws!
Awesome project man! 😀👍
That would be a great addition! I did make some 3D printed finger knobs that slot onto the head of a screw in this video: th-cam.com/video/fWC9d50BIXw/w-d-xo.html
Tip for stronger letters. Extrude the characters with angle so they flare out at the base. This would make the dot on the i be a cone instead of a cylinder.
Really nice to see effort you put in your content.
Thank you ❤️
I always love your posts. I learn something new and gain a better understanding on what Fusion 360 can do. Thanks for the detail.
That's awesome to hear, thanks for watching!
Good job Morley!
Thanks man!
Letters can be made stronger if the CAD allows for a "trapezoid" extrusion that gets progressively wider further from the reference plane. (Support blocks will have to have a different reference plane though.)
For sure! You could do that with a loft.
Cases similar to that for movable type are why we have "uppercase" and "lowercase" letters. See pbs.twimg.com/media/DATj6_AWAAAkFE3.jpg for an example.
That is so cool!
Great idea! There's a few 3D printed letterpress type projects you might want to check those out. Typically those are larger display typefaces so the small details are less of an issue. You could try adding a fillet to the bottom of the small details or a connector to the body of the i as long as the stamp is deep enough that those parts don't make an impression.
I realize you made this quite a while ago, but thank you. You saved me a whole day's worth of 'brain damage' figuring this all out for me. You have my sincere thanks and gratitude!
That’s great to hear!
For the i and j letters you could loft or chamfer the block-letter to top letter planes to make it stronger. Great project!
Great video Morley! Keep it up -
G R E A T. I D E A …. love it!
Thank you!
This is really clever! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
outstanding video! Thanks for walking us through us. One suggestion: leather shouldn't be stamped "wet." that's a bit of a misnomer. Leather workers let the leather start to dry to the point that the original color is starting to appear. that means the leather fibers have absorbed the water. if you are stamping and get water pushed out, the leather is too wet and the images will lack crispness and burnish.
So awesome Morley! What an awesome idea!
Thanks man!
thank you thank you kind sir!
Really like the font you made there 👍
Thank you!
Very cool
Thank you!
Finish it in a very red stain or varnish, and give it a nice geometrical bevel around the edge to make the case look like a big stamp on itself. Latches in black or a dark metal.
Oooooo I like it!
Id suggest to use either a polyurethane coating for water resistance or even a slightly darker stain to really bring out the wood grain. Love the project and really enjoy the leather work!
I’m also leaning towards a darker stain! I feel like that would go with the vintage look. Thanks for watching!
amazing! you should stick these to the typewriter haha.. love your designs and new ideas - so excited for the next video
Thank you so much! Could be an interesting way to get multiple font options on a typewriter haha
3d printed edge banding with built in latch.
Ooooo that's a cool idea!
5:08, the "A" body can still be visible when going to extrude as long as you have new body selected when you extrude I believe. I was wondering if you manually created each letter body or if you had a different way to create all the bodies at the same time. hopefully this helps!
Hi Morley, i bought your Letters, and i want to delete some letters and mabe change the font, but i did not have fusion. Any idea how can i make that? Thank you!!!
I wonder if a tapered extrude on the letters so they're thicker at the base would help out for the small details? I agree that resin might be a better option, but the stamps can always be reprinted for anyone doing it for themselves.
That’s a great idea! I think it would help, especially with the strength of the dot over the lowercase i.
Awesome! This seems like it could be a good intro project to Fusion 360. Not much modeling and a functional product. Can TPU hold ink? Creating a custom stamper would be cool.
Thank you so much! I've thought about trying TPU stamps - I know people have done it, and I'm not sure about the ink holding abilities.
This might be an obvious answer, but it eludes my ability - at 5:26 you extruded and added space between the blocks. Was the addition of space done manually between all, or is there a command that I am just not aware of to accomplish this equally between each?
the strength is compounded by you using silk PLA which has significantly lower intralayer adhesion than other filament
TIL!
@@MorleyKert found it out the hard way myself. PETG has great intralayer adhesion but is very stringy so not all that suitable for these tiny applications. maybe a 0.2m nozzle and some basic PLA?
A 0.2mm nozzle would be a good addition to my printing capabilities! I also plan on getting a resin printer soon, which I feel like is the ideal way to make these stamps.
Did you try to print the type set in a more rigid plastic like PETG or ASA for a more sturdy type? I guess layer adhesion on such a small touch point (like in the dot over the I) might still be a bit flimsy :)
Otherwise really cool project and I guess I gotta get the CNC part of my Snapmaker up and running. I cursed at that machine for years, but after buying a Prusa, I got enough knowledge to get an excellent first layer two years after getting the machine (well, including installing pre-production firmware to get heated 11-point bed leveling and stuff) :)
I recently got a resin printer and I would love to try printing some type on that!
It seems like the perfect match.
@@MorleyKert Is it the Prusa SL1? I'm considering getting that one. The Prusa machines are just a touch above the rest it seems 😊
@@Foodgeek I got the Elegoo Mars 3
Does a CNC like yours have a tool head thermometer or some sort of warning system?
Not that I know of
Impressed with the 3d printed type! The case, not so much. Overall, still a great project!
What revisions would you make to the case?
@@hrdcpy Well, first of all, I wouldn't spend half a day with a CNC router making it. Second, as a printer and bookbinder by trade, I wouldn't use the alphabetic order.
Never saw such calipers usage (7:47) and I'm failing to find anything on the web describing it. Any pointers?
That was actually a mistake on my part - I had the bolt in the wrong part of the jaws when I was showing it to the camera. Good catch!
So, after the fact, I wondered. And when I went back I think I found the answer. You said you extruded the case to a half inch, and later you said you set the depth to the exact material thickness. Half inch plywood is generally thinner than a half inch, so I’m wondering if you set it at a half inch or if you went back and changed it to the actual material thickness. You did later say the rack was exactly a half inch thick, and thus too tall, so you did sort of acknowledge the plywood being less than a half inch at that point.
So I set the cutting depth when I set up the toolpaths (not when I extruded the case on screen), and I set the depth of cut to the exact, measured thickness of the plywood, which was indeed less than 1/2”.
Do you have instagram? how can i get in touch with you? I am interested in buying.
I do, but I’m not currently selling the physical product, only the files. @morleykert
Too bad you don’t sell. Something like that would make my job a lot easier. Thanks for your reply.👍