Anyone not on a track and not roll racing should never do stacks...midrange is where 90% of us live...thats where all the GRUNT is when we hit the throttle and stacks move that way out to the higher rpm range. Getting the most power and torque at 7-10k is literally what all street riders should be wanting to see vice peak numbers as thats where your bikes are practically 90% of the time. LOVE the video and you guys pointing this out!!
I had these stacks on my ‘22 R1 race bike using the GYTR kit ECU and harness custom dyno tuned to run both 91 and MR12. I actually lost mid range power throughout except towards redline is where it started picking up. I tested the bike before the ‘24 race season and noticed how slow and laggy it was. I lost 4 secs on my lap time which made sense since I need the mid range power throughout and top end on corner exit. I was slowly getting passed while exiting the corner with another R1 on the same ECU, tune, and harness. I yanked the MWR out and installed the oem. Mid range power came back. If I had a MotoAmerica Superbike build with cams, pistons, WSBK full exhaust, and a thinner head gasket, then I would definitely add these in there. But with a stock head, you lose power.
That stock filter is like tryna fart thru a straw😂 i no a guy at crescent here in uk and they do all the gytr stuff and he said stacks on the cp4 are a waste of time without cams and a thinner head gasket, bigger headers are recommended too then they take off. Props to u for putting the time and R&D in an showing real data. Fixed stacks like zx10, blade gixxer may gain 3-5 from bolt ins but they never show u the tuning, fuel, dyno fudging they do to obtain such numbers so fair play to u sir.
Thanks for sharing the results. I think most of us knew what was going to happen, but I personally didn't expect that kind of mid loss. All of my bikes, past and present get a short/tall mix.
The biggest gains these days seems to be from just flashing the ECU and getting rid of the top end ride by wire restrictions, and restoring the ignition timing they pull up top. My 24 ZX10R gained 13hp peak just from an ECU flash, with the stock exhaust, intake, air filter, etc... And out near redline, it picked up 50+... A pipe and tune might add another 5-8hp, hardly enough to justify the cost and effort...
@@Rotigardenia3615 Then don't waste your money on the velocity stacks. You likely won't see the gains from it, and stacks tend to gain power in one part of the rev range, at the expense of losing it in another part. Stacks that make the best top end power, hurt low end, and vice versa. That's why most literbikes have variable length stacks that change based on RPM and throttle input, like you see in the above video. The ZX6R doesn't have that kinda setup...
I was wondering about the MWR stacks... I have 2024 R1M, and was considering swapping out the OEM with MWR stacks, but I mostly do street with occasional track day on this bike. So based on your results, I think I'll stick with OEM. Keep up the good work on your channel.
You do not need to replace the stacks. You don't need to get block off plates either. If you get a flash / tune, you'll probably want to either get block off plates or block / plug your AIS or else you'll get excessive backfire.
What tire does he have on?? I have the supercorsa sp on my 2012' cbr1krr 190/50/17 stock I wanna upgrade to 200s. 200/55 if that can fit and look wide. Thing is each tire brand aren't exactly in size.. for example 180 can be 174mm or even over, example if you put a q4 next to a s22 or rs11 or v4s youll find the dunlop q4s are slimmer and look a size lower compared to counterparts. Wonder if anyone know which tire would look good and is wide. How is the pirelli v4s and bridgestone rs11? I like the thread patterns in them and wondering what you guys think and know if which is wider looking. Thanks for reading
I have the exact same bike in this video 2024(Raven), from what I've read the Sprint P08F1-85 Filters-filtration is close to the stock filter with much better flow cfm. This is the filter I am going to get for my bike, but I don't live in a very dusty area, if I did I'd definitely be more apprehensive about an aftermarket filter.
a dumb waste of time and money I guess, why even do the test when you know you can test it properly apples to apples. I hope the customer didn't force you to do this or you forced the customer to pay for this effort. You can call MWR directly and they could have told you they will only work with the uppers and where a place is to buy them. Velocity stacks are more to move the power band then to increase it even though it helps a tiny bit. Has to be one of the saddest R1's I have ever seen, my 17 year old bike beats it with a slip on and tune.
Anyone not on a track and not roll racing should never do stacks...midrange is where 90% of us live...thats where all the GRUNT is when we hit the throttle and stacks move that way out to the higher rpm range. Getting the most power and torque at 7-10k is literally what all street riders should be wanting to see vice peak numbers as thats where your bikes are practically 90% of the time. LOVE the video and you guys pointing this out!!
Facts 👍
totally depends on the bike bro. the new fireblade does better all around on stacks. for instance
I had these stacks on my ‘22 R1 race bike using the GYTR kit ECU and harness custom dyno tuned to run both 91 and MR12. I actually lost mid range power throughout except towards redline is where it started picking up. I tested the bike before the ‘24 race season and noticed how slow and laggy it was. I lost 4 secs on my lap time which made sense since I need the mid range power throughout and top end on corner exit. I was slowly getting passed while exiting the corner with another R1 on the same ECU, tune, and harness. I yanked the MWR out and installed the oem. Mid range power came back. If I had a MotoAmerica Superbike build with cams, pistons, WSBK full exhaust, and a thinner head gasket, then I would definitely add these in there. But with a stock head, you lose power.
That stock filter is like tryna fart thru a straw😂 i no a guy at crescent here in uk and they do all the gytr stuff and he said stacks on the cp4 are a waste of time without cams and a thinner head gasket, bigger headers are recommended too then they take off. Props to u for putting the time and R&D in an showing real data. Fixed stacks like zx10, blade gixxer may gain 3-5 from bolt ins but they never show u the tuning, fuel, dyno fudging they do to obtain such numbers so fair play to u sir.
subbed , because you took the time to explain the dyno graphs from each stage of the dyno run.
Thanks for sharing the results. I think most of us knew what was going to happen, but I personally didn't expect that kind of mid loss. All of my bikes, past and present get a short/tall mix.
The biggest gains these days seems to be from just flashing the ECU and getting rid of the top end ride by wire restrictions, and restoring the ignition timing they pull up top. My 24 ZX10R gained 13hp peak just from an ECU flash, with the stock exhaust, intake, air filter, etc... And out near redline, it picked up 50+... A pipe and tune might add another 5-8hp, hardly enough to justify the cost and effort...
Planning to get kn air filter and velocity stack, but stock exhaust system. As in my country noise is very restricted. 😢
Zx6r 25 modal
@@Rotigardenia3615 Then don't waste your money on the velocity stacks. You likely won't see the gains from it, and stacks tend to gain power in one part of the rev range, at the expense of losing it in another part. Stacks that make the best top end power, hurt low end, and vice versa. That's why most literbikes have variable length stacks that change based on RPM and throttle input, like you see in the above video. The ZX6R doesn't have that kinda setup...
@@Daves_Man_Cave ok, thx for the advice brother.
Exhaust is definitely worth the cost and effort if you actually like motorcycles and how they sound.
Another great vid!!! Awesome! 🦾👍🫡💚💚💚
I was wondering about the MWR stacks... I have 2024 R1M, and was considering swapping out the OEM with MWR stacks, but I mostly do street with occasional track day on this bike. So based on your results, I think I'll stick with OEM. Keep up the good work on your channel.
Great informative video, thanks for taking the time to explain everything, well done!👍🏻
Sensacional e insano o ronco dessa maquina
one of my favorite bikes
Hey all, new to motorcycling.
Why are the SC exhausts popular as “good exhausts”? What makes them special?
Thanks 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Curious as to why he didn't ask you to do the air box mod while you were in there.
New to this Bike stuff.. I ordered the Arrow 3/4 for my zx10r do i need to replace my stacks and add block off plates??????🤷♂️🤦♂️
You do not need to replace the stacks. You don't need to get block off plates either. If you get a flash / tune, you'll probably want to either get block off plates or block / plug your AIS or else you'll get excessive backfire.
What tire does he have on?? I have the supercorsa sp on my 2012' cbr1krr 190/50/17 stock I wanna upgrade to 200s. 200/55 if that can fit and look wide. Thing is each tire brand aren't exactly in size.. for example 180 can be 174mm or even over, example if you put a q4 next to a s22 or rs11 or v4s youll find the dunlop q4s are slimmer and look a size lower compared to counterparts. Wonder if anyone know which tire would look good and is wide. How is the pirelli v4s and bridgestone rs11? I like the thread patterns in them and wondering what you guys think and know if which is wider looking.
Thanks for reading
Why do you keep the O2 sencers?
Should I keep the stock air filter for street riding most people are saying I should
I have the exact same bike in this video 2024(Raven), from what I've read the Sprint P08F1-85 Filters-filtration is close to the stock filter with much better flow cfm. This is the filter I am going to get for my bike, but I don't live in a very dusty area, if I did I'd definitely be more apprehensive about an aftermarket filter.
Edit- To add, anything that lets in more air is going to let in more particulates, the amount most likely depends on the media material & design, etc.
Do you have to install block off plates for the pops and bangs if you don’t want them or can you get away without them?
You can either buy block off plates or do it the cheap and easy way and simple block / plug the AIS with a marble or vacuum cap.
No pops and bangs! 😮 wow quiet bike then I suppose to each their own hhah
Turn the music OFF during the dyno pulls.
a dumb waste of time and money I guess, why even do the test when you know you can test it properly apples to apples. I hope the customer didn't force you to do this or you forced the customer to pay for this effort. You can call MWR directly and they could have told you they will only work with the uppers and where a place is to buy them. Velocity stacks are more to move the power band then to increase it even though it helps a tiny bit. Has to be one of the saddest R1's I have ever seen, my 17 year old bike beats it with a slip on and tune.