Where we live it rains over 300 days per year...so leaks can turn into problems fast...when we repair any wood siding rot here, its always Best to use z flashing inbetween the pieces..and always make sure you primer and paint the edges of the new wood before nailing it down...this stops water from soaking into the edge..mainly the bottom edge..
How’s z flashing work when the stuff is run vertical and he just replaced a patch Wouldn’t water still get where old siding and new patch meets even with z flashing being it’s not all run horizontally and flashing isn’t whole length of house
It's important to determine the cause of the moisture damage so you can take measures to prevent it from happening again. Possible causes to consider include clogged rain gutters; wet leaves piling up against the siding; inadequate flashing allowing water to get behind the panel; etc. It's also a good idea to prime/paint the panel before installing it. Painting along the bottom edge prevents water from wicking in. Also z-flashing between panels is important on horizontal seams.
This is exactly what I need to do on a few small locations of my house. Thank you so much!🙏🏼❤️ Do you have a video on replacing trim? The 2x6’s specifically.
Should have replaced the entire panel. If you going to do a patch panel Z flashing should have been used at horizontal cut line vs caulk. I would have used a circular saw with a piece of wood fastened to house as a guide to keep the cut as straight as possible. The oscillating tool would only be used at the end of the cuts to complete them.
How does z flashing work with the channeled siding? Seems like there will still be gaps there and wont the z flashing be seen after the job is finished? Or do you cut the flashing and press it into the channels?
How does z flashing work with the panels of t1 going upwards instead of length wise Wouldn’t the water still get at the end of the new section and run down being flashing wouldn’t run whole length horizontal wise of the house just the new section Hadn’t seen it done when patching it like ur saying Only with full horizontal runs
I always use "" Z "" trim on the cut areas. You don't, so to each his own !!!!!!! Prime and paint all edges, top - bottom - left and right sides !!!!!!! 👍
I have some rot on 3 panels of my mobile home. I’m hoping to do this technique and then add some trim over the cut to cover the area and add a little decorative look to the house.
Thanks- I have Dry-rot in several areas on my home as well. I was looking for what type of saw to use to cut out the wood paneling and replace a section.
Many comments on z flashing. In situations like this I would not use z flashing bc it would be ugly to have z flashing in just that spot. What I would do is use metal flashing behind where the two boards connect and use ahesive caulk between the two boards. Then use wood filler ove the lines and paint. It would look good and water would have to go through paint, wood filler, ahesive caulk, metal flashing.
You can actually pull the nails from the lower part of that panel, pull out from the bottom and slide a 2x4 above where your cut will be then mark your cut mark and take your skill saw and set the depth so that it cuts just over the thickness 3/8" and saw right across it. Much quicker and straighter. 👍
Excellent!! Thank you for all the work you did on this. I have the same type of siding just with narrower strips. Lots of dry rot after 45 years. I did not know the proper way to repair it but your vid laid it all out. Also never thought of clamping a guide for a table saw. A thousand thanks...
I replace the rotted sections with PVC boards that I router to the correct thickness. Once painted and caulked it looks like it has always been there and never a problem with rot again.
I have always heard that you should use flashing if repairing midway or similar in a panel. I’m not sure what they do at the top if you replace the entire panel?
@@DuctTapeMechanic thanks for the quick response good idea I will. It’s just the wet season so I’m holding off just trying to figure out what kind of siding that is to see how much it’ll cost me
Thanks for sharing. This is exactly the instructional video that I was looking for.
Where we live it rains over 300 days per year...so leaks can turn into problems fast...when we repair any wood siding rot here, its always Best to use z flashing inbetween the pieces..and always make sure you primer and paint the edges of the new wood before nailing it down...this stops water from soaking into the edge..mainly the bottom edge..
whats the best method for nailing this type of siding. if it bows can it be nailed down or does that mean it would have to be replaced
How’s z flashing work when the stuff is run vertical and he just replaced a patch
Wouldn’t water still get where old siding and new patch meets even with z flashing being it’s not all run horizontally and flashing isn’t whole length of house
Good luck z flashin my t1-11 unless theres a strategy. I hv plywood sheets behind my boards every other 5 feet, i mean wtf
@@skorpyo331 what
Should have replace the whole panel, more joints, more leaks.
Never go cheap on caulking.
Great. job Kid . Awesome Idea .
My Shed looks the Same . 💪💪👌👊😎
It's important to determine the cause of the moisture damage so you can take measures to prevent it from happening again. Possible causes to consider include clogged rain gutters; wet leaves piling up against the siding; inadequate flashing allowing water to get behind the panel; etc.
It's also a good idea to prime/paint the panel before installing it. Painting along the bottom edge prevents water from wicking in. Also z-flashing between panels is important on horizontal seams.
This is exactly what I need to do on a few small locations of my house. Thank you so much!🙏🏼❤️
Do you have a video on replacing trim? The 2x6’s specifically.
I've watched a few videos and looks like you forgot your flashing behind the cut you did so water will drop off ?
I would have liked to see the ending result of painting.
Should have replaced the entire panel. If you going to do a patch panel Z flashing should have been used at horizontal cut line vs caulk. I would have used a circular saw with a piece of wood fastened to house as a guide to keep the cut as straight as possible. The oscillating tool would only be used at the end of the cuts to complete them.
How does z flashing work with the channeled siding? Seems like there will still be gaps there and wont the z flashing be seen after the job is finished? Or do you cut the flashing and press it into the channels?
Could you glue the 2 panels together at the cut line? I know it's best to use the z-flashing but just don't like how it looks.
How does z flashing work with the panels of t1 going upwards instead of length wise
Wouldn’t the water still get at the end of the new section and run down being flashing wouldn’t run whole length horizontal wise of the house just the new section
Hadn’t seen it done when patching it like ur saying
Only with full horizontal runs
I always use "" Z "" trim on the cut areas. You don't, so to each his own !!!!!!! Prime and paint all edges, top - bottom - left and right sides !!!!!!! 👍
wwhere do you mean to use it, the bottom or between them?
I have some rot on 3 panels of my mobile home. I’m hoping to do this technique and then add some trim over the cut to cover the area and add a little decorative look to the house.
Surprised you didn't use duct tape across that horizontal seam... ROFL
Lol
Looks great! Thanks for sharing
Forgot to use z-flashing to prevent water damage.
Thanks- I have Dry-rot in several areas on my home as well. I was looking for what type of saw to use to cut out the wood paneling and replace a section.
Many comments on z flashing. In situations like this I would not use z flashing bc it would be ugly to have z flashing in just that spot. What I would do is use metal flashing behind where the two boards connect and use ahesive caulk between the two boards. Then use wood filler ove the lines and paint. It would look good and water would have to go through paint, wood filler, ahesive caulk, metal flashing.
Can you share an example of the metal flashing you're referring to?
You can actually pull the nails from the lower part of that panel, pull out from the bottom and slide a 2x4 above where your cut will be then mark your cut mark and take your skill saw and set the depth so that it cuts just over the thickness 3/8" and saw right across it. Much quicker and straighter. 👍
Awesome! Thanks for the insight!
Who could do this for me? A carpenter?
This video was incredibly helpful. thank you!
Your welcome!
Why not replace the whole panel?
Excellent!! Thank you for all the work you did on this. I have the same type of siding just with narrower strips. Lots of dry rot after 45 years. I did not know the proper way to repair it but your vid laid it all out. Also never thought of clamping a guide for a table saw. A thousand thanks...
That’s termites ninja 🥷
Where did you buy this panel siding?
Home Depot
I replace the rotted sections with PVC boards that I router to the correct thickness. Once painted and caulked it looks like it has always been there and never a problem with rot again.
I have always heard that you should use flashing if repairing midway or similar in a panel. I’m not sure what they do at the top if you replace the entire panel?
Thanks
No problem
Great video! Thank you!
What's the name of that tool you use to cut the siding
Oscillating saw. It's like 20 bucks st harbor freight
No z flashing?
Great job!
Cool 😎
Great Job! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
What type of siding is this?? Mines exactly the same and I need to replace a few pieces
To get a exact match just cut off a section and take it to home depot (it's easier that way).
@@DuctTapeMechanic thanks for the quick response good idea I will. It’s just the wet season so I’m holding off just trying to figure out what kind of siding that is to see how much it’ll cost me
@@DuctTapeMechanic nvm I figured it out lol sorry I feel stupid. Good video tho Thank you
T1-11
good video. thanks!
thank you for your helpful video. can you tell me where do you buy this panel?