I have the Baron's ORK, it leaks some oil around the metal hose connection points. I bought another set of hoses to see if that will fix the oil leak (more like drip). One thing is the oil change is quick!😀
Byrds, thank you so much for informative video. Could you please reply or post a link to metal aluminum oil filter protector you built? Where does one find that material?
Hi Dmitry A. I found some dude online 15-years ago who was making them and selling them. I would recommend printing a screen shot of the video and taking that to a metal guy and asking him to order you a sheet of that material. Then just buy a large hose clamp and make one yourself. I tried to find something similar online now, but I can't find any material that resembles that.......sorry.
That cover some dude was selling online years ago. I've just used Yamalube regular 10/40 oil for the last 17-years and the bike is at 120,000 miles now. Just change it every 3000 miles.
Some independent dude on the internet was selling them years ago. He was a flash in the pan. Many have asked where to get one. All I know is his name is "Buck Brehmer" on the package.
They make better ones then the two he mentioned and for less $$$ . I have relocated my friends baron and jaspers. Just need to be a little mechanically inclined.
Have a question I just put on the oil relocation kit and now the bottom bolt on the diverter leaks I have the baron kit how can I fix this any help would be appreciated
Did you remove the o-ring gaskets from your original assembly and put them on the diverter? I think there was a black one and red one if I remember correctly. If you did switch them over and it leaks then you might need new o-ring gaskets.
I live in a tropical country where temperatures go up to 93 Fahrenheit. Would you still recommend to use the 10w40? And what kind of oil should I use, conventional, or synthetic?
It get's over 100F where I live. I just use conventional Yamalube 10w40 year round. I change oil and filter every 3000 miles. Bike has over 120,000 miles and still runs great.
Actually I figured it out. You warm up the bike, and then drain the oil without changing the filter ; this does not require to disassemble the pipe. Fortunately the oil filter needs to be changed every other oil change (every 8000 mi or once a year per the owner manual). This relocation kit seems more sane though, thanks for the tip!
Yeah, I remember reading that in the manual. But even every 2nd oil change is a pain when you have to remove tail pipes. You won't be sorry for doing the relocation kit. It's a great investment.
You just take it out. The after market piece routes the oil through the outside filter and back into the bike again. After market is actually better for cooling the oil as well since it's outside the bike.
Hello, was wondering if you have done your own valve adjustments. I read in the online owners manual that it should be done every 4000 miles...I just got my star used and can hear the valves taping. Have you ever done a video on valve adjustments?? Thanks Fred
Hi Fred, I use a nice wide motorcycle lift. Most of the cheaper ones are narrow and I don't trust them for balance. I recommend www.jsjacks.com. Go to "Motorcycle" tab at the top, then hit "Motorcycle Lift" on the drop down menu. I have the 1st one on the page with the T-Bar to wheel it around. It's an awesome jack. jsjacks.com/product/loaded-motorcycle-lift-combo/
I haven't done valve adjustments ever on the V-Star 1100 even after 120k miles. I have the manual and it's looks pretty scary. You pretty much have to remove the whole top part of the bike if I remember right. If you think your bike needs it I would let a shop do it. It's probably the only adjustment you'll ever need.
I found this one on Amazon... Oil Filter - Car Engine Oil Filter Cooler Heat Sink Cover Aluminum Alloy Motor Mount Accessory (Color : Black)...around $28.00
Was looking to buy an 1100 so glad I saw this video. Will be passing on that bike lol. Did the engineers not see the issue with the location of the oil filter? Sheesh
Well that modification costs about $300. The V-Star has lasted me 21 years as of now with well over 130k on it. Nothing but replacing oil, brakes, tires, and a cable clutch now and then.
Yeah, one of the downsides of using old engines in new frames, yes the engine is reliable and well tested, but quirks like this can and will happen. What oil filter relocation kit do you have?
It truly makes you wonder why this model ran for such a long time and yamaha didnt bother to fit these when they realized the balls up they made when changing oil good video anyone who doesnt do this to their 1100 must be either stupid ,poor or like wasting there life changing their oil
Yamaha might have done it on purpose so riders would keep the shops in business doing "service" on their bikes. This world is designed around the almighty dollar :-(
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Your videos are just about the best I've ever seen. Ride safe and keep up the great work.
Thanks.
I have the Baron's ORK, it leaks some oil around the metal hose connection points. I bought another set of hoses to see if that will fix the oil leak (more like drip). One thing is the oil change is quick!😀
now that I know how to change the oil of VSTAR 1100, it's time to buy the bike....thanks for the demo!
Glad it helped....
awesome video thanks.i love that relocation kit.
Right on, hope it helps.
thank you just bought a custom model and someone already had one installed, yay....
Right on.....have fun.
Great thanks!
Thanks.
Byrds, thank you so much for informative video. Could you please reply or post a link to metal aluminum oil filter protector you built? Where does one find that material?
Hi Dmitry A. I found some dude online 15-years ago who was making them and selling them. I would recommend printing a screen shot of the video and taking that to a metal guy and asking him to order you a sheet of that material. Then just buy a large hose clamp and make one yourself. I tried to find something similar online now, but I can't find any material that resembles that.......sorry.
May I have a question about it?
...You should put a magnetic oil drain plug, greetings from Xalixco..
Which kit did you have on that Bike? Any trouble from it?? Good Video of it all.... Thanks!
I think I used the Baron kit. Both are identical. No problems at all. The original kit is still working over 100k miles (over 14 years now).
Like that cover. Nice idea. Have you ever used other oil types I was told about Rotella.
That cover some dude was selling online years ago. I've just used Yamalube regular 10/40 oil for the last 17-years and the bike is at 120,000 miles now. Just change it every 3000 miles.
@@Byrds1967 could you help me with some tips I just bought my first Vstar and can find the air filter
@@jesusvite4100 It's under the round cover on the right side. There should be 3 screws holding it on.
The thing with fins is an oil cooler. Where did you get it.
Some independent dude on the internet was selling them years ago. He was a flash in the pan. Many have asked where to get one. All I know is his name is "Buck Brehmer" on the package.
Your filter is down instead horizontal, witch I like, did you have a different brand from Baron and Jardine?
It was one of those, i think it was the Baron.
They make better ones then the two he mentioned and for less $$$ . I have relocated my friends baron and jaspers. Just need to be a little mechanically inclined.
Have a question I just put on the oil relocation kit and now the bottom bolt on the diverter leaks I have the baron kit how can I fix this any help would be appreciated
Did you remove the o-ring gaskets from your original assembly and put them on the diverter? I think there was a black one and red one if I remember correctly. If you did switch them over and it leaks then you might need new o-ring gaskets.
I live in a tropical country where temperatures go up to 93 Fahrenheit. Would you still recommend to use the 10w40? And what kind of oil should I use, conventional, or synthetic?
It get's over 100F where I live. I just use conventional Yamalube 10w40 year round. I change oil and filter every 3000 miles. Bike has over 120,000 miles and still runs great.
@@Byrds1967 great info. Thanks and greetings
Thank's a lot. I will buy A relocated oil Filter. It's important and save Time for change oil. Hi Hi
If you don't have the remote filter, how do you warm up the bike?
Removing the hot pipes seems dangerous...
Good point.
Actually I figured it out. You warm up the bike, and then drain the oil without changing the filter ; this does not require to disassemble the pipe. Fortunately the oil filter needs to be changed every other oil change (every 8000 mi or once a year per the owner manual). This relocation kit seems more sane though, thanks for the tip!
Yeah, I remember reading that in the manual. But even every 2nd oil change is a pain when you have to remove tail pipes. You won't be sorry for doing the relocation kit. It's a great investment.
what happens to the oil filter which was in the original place
You just take it out. The after market piece routes the oil through the outside filter and back into the bike again. After market is actually better for cooling the oil as well since it's outside the bike.
Hello, was wondering if you have done your own valve adjustments. I read in the online owners manual that it should be done every 4000 miles...I just got my star used and can hear the valves taping. Have you ever done a video on valve adjustments?? Thanks Fred
Hi Fred, I use a nice wide motorcycle lift. Most of the cheaper ones are narrow and I don't trust them for balance. I recommend www.jsjacks.com. Go to "Motorcycle" tab at the top, then hit "Motorcycle Lift" on the drop down menu. I have the 1st one on the page with the T-Bar to wheel it around. It's an awesome jack. jsjacks.com/product/loaded-motorcycle-lift-combo/
I haven't done valve adjustments ever on the V-Star 1100 even after 120k miles. I have the manual and it's looks pretty scary. You pretty much have to remove the whole top part of the bike if I remember right. If you think your bike needs it I would let a shop do it. It's probably the only adjustment you'll ever need.
@@Byrds1967 thanks brother for your answers.. And I am really enjoying your TH-cam channel..Fred
@@Fishermanfred1 Glad to help.
Where did you find that corrugated aluminum? May I have tell me where you found it or a web link please?
Some guy was selling it on line in the early 2000's. I have not been able to find anything like it since.
I found this one on Amazon...
Oil Filter - Car Engine Oil Filter Cooler Heat Sink Cover Aluminum Alloy Motor Mount Accessory (Color : Black)...around $28.00
Was looking to buy an 1100 so glad I saw this video. Will be passing on that bike lol. Did the engineers not see the issue with the location of the oil filter? Sheesh
Well that modification costs about $300. The V-Star has lasted me 21 years as of now with well over 130k on it. Nothing but replacing oil, brakes, tires, and a cable clutch now and then.
Yeah, one of the downsides of using old engines in new frames, yes the engine is reliable and well tested, but quirks like this can and will happen. What oil filter relocation kit do you have?
Not sure of the "old engine and new frame" comment. But I think mine is a Baron kit.
@@Byrds1967 It's the same engine as the Virago 1100
@@CarlMarx Oh ok. I didn't know there was a Virago 1100. I had a 1983 Virago 750, which was my first bike.
and a drill and tap and new studs for your exhaust lol
It truly makes you wonder why this model ran for such a long time and yamaha didnt bother to fit these when they realized the balls up they made when changing oil good video anyone who doesnt do this to their 1100 must be either stupid ,poor or like wasting there life changing their oil
Yamaha might have done it on purpose so riders would keep the shops in business doing "service" on their bikes. This world is designed around the almighty dollar :-(
How many miles before u perform oil change??
3000 miles.
Thx.
what kind of jack is it ?
It's from J & S Jacks. You can find them at www.jsjacks.com.
tanks....
Fucking yamaha. Why did I get another one. The battery position on a tdm850 is bull.
Your oil filter cover is a stupid idea. There’s no way a filter body would be punctured by any road debris.