I wire houses everyday. I’ve been doing Service changes and remodels for 28 years now. Got a panel upgrade for my parents in the morning and thought I would see how you did yours. Exactly the way I’ve been doing it since day one. I usually have to criticize other electricians work but have nothing but good comments. Great work explaining yourself as well. Thanks
@@gabrielM1111the plug on side goes to the neutral through the buss..the buss is basically extended down the panel so you don’t have to have pigtail coming off breaker to go up to the neutral buss..the plug on neutral eliminates the need for the extra pigtail that normally would connect to the neutral buss..current now is protected on both hot and neutral bc of the plug on neutral..
Please don’t listen to the people who criticize you or your work. What you’re doing on YOUR channel is a HUGE help and so interesting. Thank you. Please keep making this content.
Dude love the content. You've helped a lot more aspiring apprentices a LOT more than you realize. Speaking of realizations, it's obvious that you were tired in this vid. Don't exhaust yourself for us. Take a day or two off from video editing if you need it. We will understand.
I would love to work under you without pay for a week just so I can get the training and knowledge, no BS, I never went for my license as an electrician and I've done it for many years, but your videos are awesome and inspiring for me to be a better electrician. One week man, come on!
Yes I would love to do free work just to get my license that was 20 years ago. Now my hands lock up when stripping wires I don't think I could do the work anymore. And climbing ladders into hot attics. Let the younger do that work.73
I know you did a Main panel.... but when I was going to replace my Sub-panel in my garage a few years ago.... my electrician buddy told me to raise the new panel about 5 inches to make sure that all the wires coming down would reach the busses and breakers. It was a great tip for me and really did make the install go easier. Great video...!
Yes but some jurisdictions only allow the highest breaker to be 6 foot 7 inches from the ground so thats not always optional, that being said ive raise panels and had to pour a concrete step pad below the panel to satisfy the inspectors needs and the 6'7" regulation.
It’s neat to see the differences in products and methods from the USA to Canada. One of the biggest differences is that I have never installed a house panel outside, yet I see it regularly on videos sourced in the USA. And thanks for keeping it real and telling people that generally this is a full day-job. How many clients have asked me if I am almost done at 1030 am cuz they want to use the microwave for lunch…. Good grief, I probably haven’t even got a bloody knuckle by 1030….
Also no branch circuit wires can pass through the main breaker area. The Canadian panels have a separate cover for the main breaker area or a inner cover.
@@DagarothBlackroseit depends. My experience older areas with detached garages and small homes the panels are outside newer homes with attached garages service usually comes into garage and the main service panel is inside the garage.
I watch your videos all the time. They are very informative. I am not an electrician but have a very good understanding and with the help of your videos I installed a reliance controls manual generator transfer switch in my house easy as pie with a few simple electricians tools. Thanks
I greatly appreciate your humbleness and not hiding your faults as we all have a few. Keep up the good work and videos! Your variances in different scenarios are excellent in the description!
Hey Dustin, I'm a retired old guy. But now, I'm going to put in a new service in my old family home. My family has had the place for 69 1/2 years. Anyway, thanks for the refresher course. I just bought the interior 200 amp SquareD panel board at HD this afternoon. It will be a hoot to install. The old panel board coming out of the basement is underneath the first floor bathroom toilet. So, I am rerouting EVERTHING to the front left corner of the house, where it will stay clean and dry, even if the toilet does back up. Talley-Ho!
Clearly, you made excellent choices in terms of neatness and workmanship. Don't forget that thinking through and planning are often just as time-consuming as the job itself.
Now that i got the opportunity just wanted to say thanks man! Thanks to you i was able to prepare to get into the electrical trade started working at a company here in NC for about three months now and still learning and working hard!! ⚡️🤟🏽
Congratulations 🥳 I only do minor repairs... One of my sayings, after repeated zaps🤯... Did I turn the breaker off? "When in doubt, Check it out!"🥇 Stay safe🥳
Dustin! I just want to say how much I love the channel! Been watching a ton of videos the past week or so. I love Code Time. I love your respect for doing the work so well. I'm just a hack home-gamer and you convinced me to buy the NEC book.
The last segment you was on point people will always say coulda,shoulda,woulda but if most of us was half the master you are,we wouldn't have to pay someone to work on our homes.you are the Man DUSTIN.
I have an additional question. Not only do I have to put in a new panel but I have to move it to the other side of my house about 60ft away. What do I do to move everything. I will keep looking on youtube You are amazing and I appreciate your support.
Dont even know why i watch these videos because im an electrician in the uk, but it is interesting to see how different people do it in other countries
@@victorpine9163 So in your country you run every individual circuit for each breaker from a different panel where the service conductors are? No clue if that's actually how it's done there but sounds like double the work anytime you have to add a new circuit. Where are you from and please describe how a typical service is setup there to where you don't have service conductors in the same panel as the breakers.
Great job working and filming. You did fine. The bonding jumper is so important. It takes little effort and is really not that big of an expense. Perfection ... Keep em coming.
Not to be a dick but I’m a little worried that watching this video prepared you for that. I would hope you would have helped with a few before hand? Just my opinion.
I love how Dustin addresses haters and opinionated commenters!!! “I’m in my house, my power is on and everything’s fine!!! When you build your own service, you can do all those pretty things in your service”!!! Honestly, I thought Dustin’s work was neat, professional appearance and especially up to current code standards. I agree that using a bunch of wire nuts to extend the neutrals and/or grounds was unnecessary in his case. He added the conductors to both the neutral and ground busses he installed to insure conductor dependent connections. I also like that he used all copper conductors instead of being cheap and using aluminum conductors.
I keep looking at how nice and clean your work is, then I look at the service panel in my basement someone had upgraded before I got the place, and it is a mess. I wish it had been upgraded by someone who takes the pride in it like you do. Your videos keep getting me more excited to get into the trade.
Great job man! My inspector told me to always learn something new when ya get off work every day. Great to see a different point of view and a lot of times I go “well I’ll be damned.”
Hi Dustin, really appreciate your videos and respect the amount of work you put into them. I noticed you didn’t label the conductors so I’m wondering how you knew which conductors were part of the same circuit when you were landing them into the breakers?
Hey Dustin, literally just got my Master's and went out on my own. In your area, when doing a service change, what's the process for doing a service change? Pull permit, call power company then you gotta wait for them to unhook before you can start? Wait for inspector, and call power company back all in the same day?
This is awesome, man. I'm not an electrician, but an engineer by trade and I'm getting ready to build myself a shop on my property. I'm studying the codebook in preparation to install a 400 amp service so that I can have 200 amps at my shop and house. If you could cover some stuff related to installing 400amp split phase service, I'd be super appreciative. Thanks for all you do, man.
Awesome videos man, Im third year in IEC currently, 2nd year apprenticeship. I hope to one day be a Master like you and my uncle. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Love, that you love us [crazy] ppl😂. It’s always easy to critique someone’s work after it’s all done etc.... but when your the person on the other side during a time crunch & juggling diff things.....whole other story😉 So, think for most, we do get it, & thx for the vid AND electrician U Have always enjoyed your vids/channels, & the main thing for me, just love your personality & attitude 😁 Cheers✌🏼
Gotta love slotted screws!!! I too exclusively use Square D, but our green bonding screw is a combination Robertson (square) and slotted (Ontario, Canada), yours looks to be slotted only, looked like your screwdriver jumped off the screw several times? When installing a new panel I tie all my ground bars together, just in case one becomes intermittent. Learned this the hard way when working with PLCs and how they don't like wonky grounds.
Believe it r not this is when a real electrician shows up... in the heat of pressure ... u said u just do what need to be done to get it pass and tht ur please at the end ... great job
The old ground keep it and use that for the inter system bounding terminal block and if those multi branch circuits land to outlets use afci plugs instead of the breakers if you can $20 a pce vs $150+
Awesome video. I'm starting as an apprentice tomorrow that subcontracts for an HVAC company. I wanted to just get an idea of the type of projects I'd be working on. Again great video.
Love your videos, Learning a lot from you. I live in the Northeast and I am curious why the circuit breaker panel is on the outside of the house. I have not seen that practice in the NorthEast. Outside of the labor involved bringing the panel inside, is there any reason why you didn't move the panel inside the house?
Looks great, love seeing your work. Please consider doing a video on multiple methods to extend short home runs when installing a larger, new service. I assume there are multiple methods to extend too-short home-runs instead of wire nuts. Thanks for your great work!
You baby steps style of teaching is awesome. Got all the information better than the electrician who came to assess the panel install for my remodel home in Mexico. It was all out of code. No ground. No bond. Wires not labeled. Ouch. Thank you.
Can you make a video about bonding and grounding in the service panel, what do you need exactly, why do i see little green grounding wires coming out of my electrical system?
Not sure where you're located, but here in So Cal. Our inspection requires us to update the GRC in its entirety, add full home surge suppression, bond hot-cold- and gas. AFCI/GFCI any branch circuit with more then a 6ft extension made to it. Gone are the good old days when a service upgrade only too a day and you made money at the typical rate of around $2-2.4k. I used to love getting these jobs. Now i would love nothing more then to turn them away.
Dude,GREAT videos.I'm sure I'm not alone with this opinion! Question; My house is older and has "Zinsco like" breakers(obsolete). I would like to install a new 200 amp service...OK,now the Q...New box is almost 2X size as present.I'm sure lots of "hots" will be too short. Is extending them with wirenuts and pigtails OK as long as they're within confines of breaker box? I'll be using ground and neutral busses as you just showed us.You're very clear on your content and that's refreshing.
Just started following you on both channels! I think You're putting out great content. I wish I had discovered you when I was a pre apprentice. I am a Journey man now with A TON to learn and A TON to get better at. I plan on watching alot of your stuff to improve myself in this trade. Thanks man keep it up! - Sam (St. Paul MN)
I stumbled across this video while going down the rabbit hole. TL/DR this guy makes it look so easy, which means no way in hell I'm doing it. A bit of detail: We want to have a transfer switch installed. Electrician discovers my home has an old Challenger panel, it's missing the internal cover that hides the wires. So in order to do the upgrade we might need to replace the panel. We probably need to replace the panel. The only good news is the model # isn't a recall panel.
I think the idea behind the knockout holes is for fire safety i dont know for sure but i do maintenance on a 60 year old building the was highly neglected before me and the new manager got there and im dealing with fire inspectors so im learning so much about fire safety possibly too much lol also i love the vids man your literally a life saver lol
Great work! Regarding the neutral bar you added, what size jumper did you use? From what I’ve seen those extra bars are only rated for grounds not neutrals. It would seem the jumper would at least need to be sized for the amps of the panel, not just a 6 or 4 awg
I agree with you, the jumper he used is a 4awg, which is totally undersized for a 200 amp feeder tap. I am really confused why he installed it this way.
Thanks bud really apreciate this refresher before i go back into electrical. its amazing how rusty you can get just taking 6 months off from electrical. 🤣
Regarding the short wires, could you have installed a DIN rail at the bottom of the junction box, then snapped on a series of terminal blocks, and used that to bridge the incoming short wires with longer wires snaking up to the breakers? I've seen terminal blocks used in numerous videos but so far they are all exclusively European or UK specific. It is not at all clear to me if that would be an acceptable solution in the US?
When you were wiring your reds & blacks to each 2 pole breaker, how did you know which red & which black were for each breaker? I didn't see you label them, is why I am asking. Thanks! & awesome videos!!!
Hey dude, can you explain why we bond Neutral to Ground at the Main, but not at Sub-Panels? I can't find a good description of that anywhere, there's mostly just descriptions on why we don't do it at subs... but why DO we do it at mains? Thanks for the videos!
Because neutral is grounded only to provide a reference for the neutral and keep it from floating. The point that was chosen for that ground is your main panel, probably because it is the closest point in the electrical system to the actual ground. By leaving ground isolated once it leaves the main panel, you ensure it doesn't conduct current unless there is a fault condition. You could imagine a system where ground and neutral are totally separated throughout the whole system. What would happen to the whole system? It would float and allow the DC potential of the system to rise high enough to create dangerous levels. You could also imagine a system where instead of bonding neutral and ground inside the main panel, you bonded neutral to a separate ground via a second rod. It would work, but add extra unneeded steps.
Great video. Learning a lot from your shared expertise thru your channel. I noticed at the end of the video when you put the cover on the panel, the jumper wire from the additional ground bar you installed at the bottom of the panel to link the vertical bus bar on the left at the beginning of the installation is not there. Did you decide it wasn’t needed and removed it?
As an Australian watching this video it's so interesting the differences between the 2 countries how we do things and the terminology used for different items we call our ground an earth and the breakers we call single pole RCD's ( residual current device ) but anyway it all works in the end
A breaker is not a RCD. An RCD is called a GFCI in the US. Usually the GDCI will be in the outlet, not at that breaker, but you can get breakers with built in GFCI's.
Yeah. Our breakers are just overcurrent protection, and prevent too many amps from going to a circuit. Our RCDs are called GFCIs, (Ground fault circuit interrupter) and are usually inside the wall outlets in our houses, when within a certain distance from a water source. We also have AFCI technology now, which protects against arc faults. AFCI tech is now built into the circuit breakers at the panel, and is included in the SQUARE-D breakers he is installing. The old ZINSCO panel he took out had no such protection, and the breakers were prone to failure due to dissimilar metals inside the panel causing arcs, and melting the breakers in the open position. Every single ZINSCO panel was recalled for replacement. We have an older SQUARE-D panel from 2002 that only has AFCIs on the bedroom breakers, but is much the same to the new design in every other way to the brand new one on this video, the other difference being that ours is on an interior wall.
First of all, great job for service upgrade. Only had a couple questions. But first of all, in New York we put the meter outside and the panel inside (with the 3 ft rule?). You didn't show inside the house. Do you install your branch circuits in a pull box, troff, gutter?... And I understand the 70 percent rule for a nipple 12" or less. But do you have to derate the wires for more than 3 current carrying conductors? ..like I said we normally have the panel in a garage or basement so we just dump all branch circuits into the top of the panel. (No weather proofing or derating required). P.S. winter in N.y. I wouldn't want to go outside to reset a breaker. Lol
Awesome! Great content. Just found your channel and now you got a new subscriber. As of tomorrow, Monday, April 1st 2024, I’ll be installing a new panel in my rental property . I’m upgrading the box from 125 amps of a consolidated company from New Jersey I think, to a 200 amps Square D . I’m not an electrician, little concerned on doing it, no joke( although it’s fool’s day) but I’ll be doing it nonetheless and got tell you that there are a lot of good tips from your channel . Cheers from Texas. 🍺
Thanks for all your hardwork and great videos you do the best and explain the best ever when it comes to electrical! You are like the name Electric University the rest are just school! I learned my electronics in the navy and you have helped me allot learning and converting that to residential especially code and I thank you!
i came here looking for the perfect job. I am trying to get better and want as many examples of really good jobs that I can find. I am curious on the layout of neutrals and hot wires. Do some cable neutrals together and hots together for neatness?
If I understand your question, youre asking how to make up a neat and workmanlike panel? So, when roughing in a house, your wires will all be pulled first. Then you can begin your make up. Going through, you strip back all the sleeves from the wires. Romex for residential usually. Land the grounds and neutrals first, other than what you need for AFCI and GFCI breakers. If you already have these breakers, you can land the neutral to them and run your pigtails from the breaker to the bus. Make sure everything is nice a tight to the corners of the gutter in the panel. You can then zip tie these if you want. It’s mostly done for overall neatness and clean looking gutters. Then land your ungrounded conductors. Hope this answers your question!
Nobody makes a listed crimp connector for solid core wire. Any crimps would come loose on solid wire. I personally would have either relocated the panel, or installed a remote junction box for extending the conductors. Wire nutted and soldered.
@@metalbill I’m in commercial service so I don’t typically deal with a lot of solid wire, but I agree, if I was dealing with solid I’d probably just use wire nuts.
I know this is an older video, but if you happened to read this, I would recommend keeping a trash bucket with you to use as your work. Obviously it keeps the job site clean as your work, but it saves time and effort later having to pickup all the refuse and it looks more professional.
Dustin, understand you might be installing AFCI breakers later on. By cutting the neutrals to fit the neutral bars like you did today, are you going to be able to reach the AFCIs with the neutral conductors? Just wondering how you might be preparing for that.
He addressed this in the video, you gotta have some wire spliced into those short neutrals/hots/grounds. I've done it before when hots or neutrals weren't long enough to reach a breaker. But don't do them all at the same length. Try to alternate the lengths by doing some short or long depending on the wire so you don't have all of the wirenuts looking like a tumor at the bottom of your panel
Cool vid. Neutral Current doesn’t just take back the least path of resistance back to the source and ground; it takes any and all paths back including God forbid a person. That being said landing neutrals on a uninsulated ground bar one step before the grounded conductor (neutral) will cause some current to flow through the can and up the Main Bonding Screw and up the Neutral as well as the bonding jumper you attached from the ground bar to the neutral bus. ME
Up in ND/MN we don't have outdoor panels so I was wondering why u didn't have to put in a main breaker disconnect under the meter. Then I realized since your panel is outside there is no reason to install one. I was wondering though, are lever bypass meter disconnects not required in your area?
it's interesting to see how electrical installs are done over the pond. I'm an electrician in the UK and we've recently started using that style of Distribution board with the Neutral bar ran down with the bus bars for the phases so you don't have the flying leads. in regards to energising a install do you do any form of electrical testing or is it just a case of bang test ? I've just stumbled across your channel and will most likely be on one of those TH-cam deep dives that people do form time to time when they find something they are interested in haha keep up the good work
I don’t know if you installed one off camera or I didn’t catch that you did but, why didn’t you install a roof jack on your penetration through your roof? I know it was threw your over hang but won’t water still get to the exposed plywood and cause rot?
Hey dude, theses are very good videos and very useful. If you're not an instructor or teacher of the trade, you should be. This was very easy to follow. Thank you.
UH O...Did the 2" plastic bushing on the nipple coming through the wall "magically" appear after you hooked up all the neutrals or did you cut it and "slide-screw" it on?
Looking forward to your video on GFCI and AFCI with the NEC 2020 changes and your thoughts on the changes with 220 now being GFCI breakers. Hopefully Square D comes up with a PoN breakers for those down the road. Another note is I've looked at the big box stores and only seen dual function PoN breaker and a AFCI only PoN breakers. We didn't see a spot for GFCI only PoN which in a garage circuit, the AFCI part turned into a pain in the ass with motors constantly tripping the breaker. A friend installed a dual function breaker in his new garage circuits thinking he's be covered with dual and had nothing but issues with the shop vac and his table saw tripping the breakers. He ended up installing a GFCI breaker with a pigtail to avoid the issue. I like the clean look and ease of the install with PoN breakers just wish our big box stores had them in GFCI only.
Question: can a Main Box be added to a Split Main? My son currently has a split Main which does not separate itself from the Power Grid. As a result, he cannot put a generator into his home system without back feeding into the grid and shutting down his generator. Thank you for answering.
Here in Florida when you install a new service you can not bring all the home runs through one connector, you have to bring them into the new panel with separate Romex conns. two to three per conn. max.
Great video. What Electrode did you use for your Main Service System Grounding? I'm assuming it's the bare copper conductor terminating to your Ground bus at the Main panel. Didn't saw any ground rods below so it maybe terminating to metallic CWP inside the house bonded to another supplemental electrode.
In this main panel application you would leave the green screw in which bonds the neutral and ground conductors, unlike in a subpanel you would not, correct?
This is something I need addressed at my house, the main and two subs are all FPE.. two additional things I'd like to add though, is accommodations for solar, and a generator. It seems we lose power 2-3 times per year.. the joys of being at the very end of the line!
Quick question. Isn't the meter socket now considered the main panel and the encloser is now a sub panel? Then, the neutral and grounds would need seperated. Just asking, because, when I added a standby generator, my transfer switch now became my main and my meter base was considered a sub panel which I seperated my grounds and neutrals.
If I want the service panel in the basement instead of outside, I understand now that I need a main shut-off below the meter. Does this then make the main service panel in basement now a sub panel where grounds and neutrals are to be isolated?
Its interesting to see how things are done in the states, here in canada thoes neutrals wouldn't connect to a bus on the cabinet, they have to be isolated. Also we have to separate our neutrals and bonds in main panels too. We also put our panels inside, but that could be for a pretty obvious reason😅
🤔, I bet your inspections do a ohm test of the grounding system to make sure that it is up to par, which I hear is notoriously difficult to accomplish. I have seen neutrals that have lost their connection to the service drop and as a result when you load one phase, the other phase will shoot up in voltage. It does not cut the power to the house as you would expect and can be easily missed..
@@TheSuraj03 actually no, on our construction site we just install 1 ground plate with a #6 copper, all the inspectors do is just pull on the wire to se if we actually put a plate in. Technically they can test it but its never happened to us.
@@TheSuraj03 Neutrals that lose their connection is either due to the electrician service feeder side or the lineman underground or overground service side. The grounding electrode and electrode system is only there for lightning protection. The ground that supplies the grounding electrode conductor to the line side transformers on the secondary side, should have grounded the grounded conductor for transients and balance reasons. Technically both sides claim the same I guess in case one or the other fails. If a grounding electrode conducts neutral current, there is objectionable current to fix
One you point out is a shared neutral, I found out the hard way. I was working on one circuit down in the basement and I had that circuit turned off and every once in awhile I got bit because the other circuit which the freezer was on used the same neutral so ever time the freezer came their was down stream current in the neutral because this is a old house had no additional ground wire is in the circuit. It drove me nuts until I finally figured it out.
The two breakers with a shared neutral are supposed to be connected together, so it's impossible to shut one off without also the other. And if it trips, it also causes the other to trip. There's a rod that you use between them to physically connect them - that's why there is a hole in the handle.
Great video! Love all your content. Does the outdoor main shut off for the main panel substitute the emergency service shut off that is being required by the 2020 NEC. Thank you so much! 🙏
He did do a nice job and a lot of people don't understand that City Ordnance can override NEC Codes like he said more than one way to skin a cat and still pass inspection. You nailed also on adding a buss...
You strike me as a very sharp young man. Good job dude , I been an Electrician for 14 years but have never done a service change. I was always curious what to do if conductors were short , I agree wire nuts are hoky . But I have a question, What do you do if the hot conductors are short ? Wire nut ? Is that a code violation?
The 125 amp service entrance box I acquired doesn't have a top center space for a main 125 amp breaker set. Is it ok to put the main breakers at the top of one of the busses, or is this a subpanel mistakenly put in a box labeled as a "Main Service Entrance"? I live in an unregulated rural area where this "off-center" setup is pretty common and most residential wiring has never seen a licensed electrician.
I wire houses everyday. I’ve been doing Service changes and remodels for 28 years now. Got a panel upgrade for my parents in the morning and thought I would see how you did yours. Exactly the way I’ve been doing it since day one. I usually have to criticize other electricians work but have nothing but good comments. Great work explaining yourself as well. Thanks
Why did he connect neutrals to the bus if the breakers are the type that take hot & neutral?
@@gabrielM1111the plug on side goes to the neutral through the buss..the buss is basically extended down the panel so you don’t have to have pigtail coming off breaker to go up to the neutral buss..the plug on neutral eliminates the need for the extra pigtail that normally would connect to the neutral buss..current now is protected on both hot and neutral bc of the plug on neutral..
HOW MUCH TO UPGRADE THE PANEL FOR AT HOUSE
Please don’t listen to the people who criticize you or your work. What you’re doing on YOUR channel is a HUGE help and so interesting. Thank you. Please keep making this content.
Dude love the content. You've helped a lot more aspiring apprentices a LOT more than you realize.
Speaking of realizations, it's obvious that you were tired in this vid. Don't exhaust yourself for us. Take a day or two off from video editing if you need it. We will understand.
I would love to work under you without pay for a week just so I can get the training and knowledge, no BS, I never went for my license as an electrician and I've done it for many years, but your videos are awesome and inspiring for me to be a better electrician. One week man, come on!
go to your local union and apply for their apprenticeship
Tony Fugate...you can come and work for free, for me.....I need some younger muscle to bend 4/0....lol
Yes I would love to do free work just to get my license that was 20 years ago. Now my hands lock up when stripping wires I don't think I could do the work anymore. And climbing ladders into hot attics. Let the younger do that work.73
I know you did a Main panel.... but when I was going to replace my Sub-panel in my garage a few years ago.... my electrician buddy told me to raise the new panel about 5 inches to make sure that all the wires coming down would reach the busses and breakers. It was a great tip for me and really did make the install go easier. Great video...!
Yes but some jurisdictions only allow the highest breaker to be 6 foot 7 inches from the ground so thats not always optional, that being said ive raise panels and had to pour a concrete step pad below the panel to satisfy the inspectors needs and the 6'7" regulation.
And in my panel that needs replacing -- I have wires coming in from both top and bottom, so raising new panel wouldn't help.
It’s neat to see the differences in products and methods from the USA to Canada. One of the biggest differences is that I have never installed a house panel outside, yet I see it regularly on videos sourced in the USA.
And thanks for keeping it real and telling people that generally this is a full day-job. How many clients have asked me if I am almost done at 1030 am cuz they want to use the microwave for lunch…. Good grief, I probably haven’t even got a bloody knuckle by 1030….
I think outside panels are a southern US thing. I've never seen them outside anywhere that gets snow.
Also no branch circuit wires can pass through the main breaker area. The Canadian panels have a separate cover for the main breaker area or a inner cover.
@@DagarothBlackroseit depends. My experience older areas with detached garages and small homes the panels are outside newer homes with attached garages service usually comes into garage and the main service panel is inside the garage.
I watch your videos all the time. They are very informative. I am not an electrician but have a very good understanding and with the help of your videos I installed a reliance controls manual generator transfer switch in my house easy as pie with a few simple electricians tools. Thanks
I greatly appreciate your humbleness and not hiding your faults as we all have a few. Keep up the good work and videos! Your variances in different scenarios are excellent in the description!
Hey Dustin, I'm a retired old guy. But now, I'm going to put in a new service in my old family home. My family has had the place for 69 1/2 years. Anyway, thanks for the refresher course. I just bought the interior 200 amp SquareD panel board at HD this afternoon. It will be a hoot to install. The old panel board coming out of the basement is underneath the first floor bathroom toilet. So, I am rerouting EVERTHING to the front left corner of the house, where it will stay clean and dry, even if the toilet does back up. Talley-Ho!
Clearly, you made excellent choices in terms of neatness and workmanship. Don't forget that thinking through and planning are often just as time-consuming as the job itself.
Now that i got the opportunity just wanted to say thanks man! Thanks to you i was able to prepare to get into the electrical trade started working at a company here in NC for about three months now and still learning and working hard!! ⚡️🤟🏽
Badass dude congrats!
what company? i’m in nc and looking for a new company to apprentice for
Congratulations 🥳 I only do minor repairs... One of my sayings, after repeated zaps🤯...
Did I turn the breaker off?
"When in doubt, Check it out!"🥇
Stay safe🥳
Can we get an update? You still slangin' wire or moved on to something else?
Just curious. 😁
Dustin! I just want to say how much I love the channel! Been watching a ton of videos the past week or so. I love Code Time. I love your respect for doing the work so well. I'm just a hack home-gamer and you convinced me to buy the NEC book.
The last segment you was on point people will always say coulda,shoulda,woulda but if most of us was half the master you are,we wouldn't have to pay someone to work on our homes.you are the Man DUSTIN.
I love the fact that you care about the efficiency and cleanliness of cable routing, good work!
All great trades men and women do. It’s really an art behind the work. We take pride in making beautiful efficient work
I have an additional question. Not only do I have to put in a new panel but I have to move it to the other side of my house about 60ft away. What do I do to move everything. I will keep looking on youtube You are amazing and I appreciate your support.
Dont even know why i watch these videos because im an electrician in the uk, but it is interesting to see how different people do it in other countries
Yeah. Like uninsulated screwdrivers...
I'm from Canada and I was thinking the samething
Blows my mind to see the main power accessible in the main area where the breakers are we have to keep service wires and branch separate
@@victorpine9163 So in your country you run every individual circuit for each breaker from a different panel where the service conductors are?
No clue if that's actually how it's done there but sounds like double the work anytime you have to add a new circuit.
Where are you from and please describe how a typical service is setup there to where you don't have service conductors in the same panel as the breakers.
Great job working and filming. You did fine. The bonding jumper is so important. It takes little effort and is really not that big of an expense. Perfection ... Keep em coming.
Doing my first ever service upgrade tomorrow so this was GREAT timing
How did it go?
@@DonkeyLipsDA3rd uh oh I hope hes ok lol
Not to be a dick but I’m a little worried that watching this video prepared you for that. I would hope you would have helped with a few before hand? Just my opinion.
@@jadeekokonios2979 lmfao yeah no sh!t huh? If u need to watch this video to do an upgrade I don't think u should be doing any upgrades....lol
ER?
I love how Dustin addresses haters and opinionated commenters!!! “I’m in my house, my power is on and everything’s fine!!! When you build your own service, you can do all those pretty things in your service”!!! Honestly, I thought Dustin’s work was neat, professional appearance and especially up to current code standards.
I agree that using a bunch of wire nuts to extend the neutrals and/or grounds was unnecessary in his case. He added the conductors to both the neutral and ground busses he installed to insure conductor dependent connections. I also like that he used all copper conductors instead of being cheap and using aluminum conductors.
I keep looking at how nice and clean your work is, then I look at the service panel in my basement someone had upgraded before I got the place, and it is a mess. I wish it had been upgraded by someone who takes the pride in it like you do. Your videos keep getting me more excited to get into the trade.
He pulled all new wiring. More than likely things were added into your system afterwards. ( like his probably will on the left side)
Great job man! My inspector told me to always learn something new when ya get off work every day. Great to see a different point of view and a lot of times I go “well I’ll be damned.”
Great advice by him/her.
Hi Dustin, really appreciate your videos and respect the amount of work you put into them. I noticed you didn’t label the conductors so I’m wondering how you knew which conductors were part of the same circuit when you were landing them into the breakers?
he most likely knew by each pairs length..
I was actually wondering the same thing? But he mentioned if there was a short that the two circuits would activate the two breakers
It’s romex, you can see the conductors together coming out of the outer jacket.
Hey Dustin, literally just got my Master's and went out on my own. In your area, when doing a service change, what's the process for doing a service change? Pull permit, call power company then you gotta wait for them to unhook before you can start? Wait for inspector, and call power company back all in the same day?
Thanks again !!! AWESOME, AWESOME video!! i appreciate how honest you are! Absolutely no arrogance or cockiness!!
This is awesome, man. I'm not an electrician, but an engineer by trade and I'm getting ready to build myself a shop on my property. I'm studying the codebook in preparation to install a 400 amp service so that I can have 200 amps at my shop and house.
If you could cover some stuff related to installing 400amp split phase service, I'd be super appreciative.
Thanks for all you do, man.
Thanks. I just bought a Square D box and am looking for which side to put the bare ground on and which the neutral. Great presentation.
Awesome videos man, Im third year in IEC currently, 2nd year apprenticeship. I hope to one day be a Master like you and my uncle. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Love, that you love us [crazy] ppl😂. It’s always easy to critique someone’s work after it’s all done etc.... but when your the person on the other side during a time crunch & juggling diff things.....whole other story😉
So, think for most, we do get it, & thx for the vid AND electrician U
Have always enjoyed your vids/channels, & the main thing for me, just love your personality & attitude 😁
Cheers✌🏼
Gotta love slotted screws!!! I too exclusively use Square D, but our green bonding screw is a combination Robertson (square) and slotted (Ontario, Canada), yours looks to be slotted only, looked like your screwdriver jumped off the screw several times? When installing a new panel I tie all my ground bars together, just in case one becomes intermittent. Learned this the hard way when working with PLCs and how they don't like wonky grounds.
Believe it r not this is when a real electrician shows up... in the heat of pressure ... u said u just do what need to be done to get it pass and tht ur please at the end ... great job
Love how you extended those wires
The old ground keep it and use that for the inter system bounding terminal block and if those multi branch circuits land to outlets use afci plugs instead of the breakers if you can $20 a pce vs $150+
Incredibly well done presentation, clearly explained and recorded. Bravo. 👏👏👏
Awesome video. I'm starting as an apprentice tomorrow that subcontracts for an HVAC company. I wanted to just get an idea of the type of projects I'd be working on. Again great video.
Love your videos, Learning a lot from you. I live in the Northeast and I am curious why the circuit breaker panel is on the outside of the house. I have not seen that practice in the NorthEast. Outside of the labor involved bringing the panel inside, is there any reason why you didn't move the panel inside the house?
In warmer climates, not uncommon to see the panel outside.
Looks great, love seeing your work. Please consider doing a video on multiple methods to extend short home runs when installing a larger, new service. I assume there are multiple methods to extend too-short home-runs instead of wire nuts.
Thanks for your great work!
You baby steps style of teaching is awesome. Got all the information better than the electrician who came to assess the panel install for my remodel home in Mexico. It was all out of code. No ground. No bond. Wires not labeled. Ouch. Thank you.
Can you make a video about bonding and grounding in the service panel, what do you need exactly, why do i see little green grounding wires coming out of my electrical system?
did you find any good videos ?
Thanks!
Please next time and moving forward take your time, we wanna see your BEST so WE ALL UNDERSTAND. Thanks again bro.
Not sure where you're located, but here in So Cal. Our inspection requires us to update the GRC in its entirety, add full home surge suppression, bond hot-cold- and gas. AFCI/GFCI any branch circuit with more then a 6ft extension made to it. Gone are the good old days when a service upgrade only too a day and you made money at the typical rate of around $2-2.4k. I used to love getting these jobs. Now i would love nothing more then to turn them away.
Dude,GREAT videos.I'm sure I'm not alone with this opinion! Question; My house is older and has "Zinsco like" breakers(obsolete). I would like to install a new 200 amp service...OK,now the Q...New box is almost 2X size as present.I'm sure lots of "hots" will be too short. Is extending them with wirenuts and pigtails OK as long as they're within confines of breaker box? I'll be using ground and neutral busses as you just showed us.You're very clear on your content and that's refreshing.
5:32 I thought the hot wires weren't going to be long enough. How would you have handled it if the hot wires didn't reach?
sploce wires to make them longer..its allowed
He told us right here in this video.
Yea what he said to do with the neutral lines if they’re too short wire nut it you can do the same thing with the hots also
Just started following you on both channels! I think You're putting out great content. I wish I had discovered you when I was a pre apprentice. I am a Journey man now with A TON to learn and A TON to get better at. I plan on watching alot of your stuff to improve myself in this trade. Thanks man keep it up!
- Sam (St. Paul MN)
I stumbled across this video while going down the rabbit hole. TL/DR this guy makes it look so easy, which means no way in hell I'm doing it.
A bit of detail: We want to have a transfer switch installed. Electrician discovers my home has an old Challenger panel, it's missing the internal cover that hides the wires. So in order to do the upgrade we might need to replace the panel. We probably need to replace the panel. The only good news is the model # isn't a recall panel.
I think the idea behind the knockout holes is for fire safety i dont know for sure but i do maintenance on a 60 year old building the was highly neglected before me and the new manager got there and im dealing with fire inspectors so im learning so much about fire safety possibly too much lol also i love the vids man your literally a life saver lol
Awesome vid. Dude your sloppy work is much better than most pro work out there.
Screw all haters! You got your code knowledge down and great work on the service upgrade
Great work! Regarding the neutral bar you added, what size jumper did you use? From what I’ve seen those extra bars are only rated for grounds not neutrals. It would seem the jumper would at least need to be sized for the amps of the panel, not just a 6 or 4 awg
I agree with you, the jumper he used is a 4awg, which is totally undersized for a 200 amp feeder tap. I am really confused why he installed it this way.
THREE WORDS: Pride and Professionalism!
Hey Dustin - what are those things with dials sitting on the bench behind you? I was always curious.
Flux capacitor...
Thanks bud really apreciate this refresher before i go back into electrical. its amazing how rusty you can get just taking 6 months off from electrical. 🤣
The way how you teach its better stay three months with you instead going two years school easy to understand. Thank you for your time
Regarding the short wires, could you have installed a DIN rail at the bottom of the junction box, then snapped on a series of terminal blocks, and used that to bridge the incoming short wires with longer wires snaking up to the breakers? I've seen terminal blocks used in numerous videos but so far they are all exclusively European or UK specific. It is not at all clear to me if that would be an acceptable solution in the US?
When you were wiring your reds & blacks to each 2 pole breaker, how did you know which red & which black were for each breaker?
I didn't see you label them, is why I am asking.
Thanks! & awesome videos!!!
Hey dude, can you explain why we bond Neutral to Ground at the Main, but not at Sub-Panels? I can't find a good description of that anywhere, there's mostly just descriptions on why we don't do it at subs... but why DO we do it at mains? Thanks for the videos!
Because neutral is grounded only to provide a reference for the neutral and keep it from floating. The point that was chosen for that ground is your main panel, probably because it is the closest point in the electrical system to the actual ground. By leaving ground isolated once it leaves the main panel, you ensure it doesn't conduct current unless there is a fault condition.
You could imagine a system where ground and neutral are totally separated throughout the whole system. What would happen to the whole system? It would float and allow the DC potential of the system to rise high enough to create dangerous levels. You could also imagine a system where instead of bonding neutral and ground inside the main panel, you bonded neutral to a separate ground via a second rod. It would work, but add extra unneeded steps.
Great video. Learning a lot from your shared expertise thru your channel. I noticed at the end of the video when you put the cover on the panel, the jumper wire from the additional ground bar you installed at the bottom of the panel to link the vertical bus bar on the left at the beginning of the installation is not there. Did you decide it wasn’t needed and removed it?
As an Australian watching this video it's so interesting the differences between the 2 countries how we do things and the terminology used for different items we call our ground an earth and the breakers we call single pole RCD's ( residual current device ) but anyway it all works in the end
A breaker is not a RCD. An RCD is called a GFCI in the US. Usually the GDCI will be in the outlet, not at that breaker, but you can get breakers with built in GFCI's.
Yeah. Our breakers are just overcurrent protection, and prevent too many amps from going to a circuit. Our RCDs are called GFCIs, (Ground fault circuit interrupter) and are usually inside the wall outlets in our houses, when within a certain distance from a water source. We also have AFCI technology now, which protects against arc faults. AFCI tech is now built into the circuit breakers at the panel, and is included in the SQUARE-D breakers he is installing. The old ZINSCO panel he took out had no such protection, and the breakers were prone to failure due to dissimilar metals inside the panel causing arcs, and melting the breakers in the open position. Every single ZINSCO panel was recalled for replacement. We have an older SQUARE-D panel from 2002 that only has AFCIs on the bedroom breakers, but is much the same to the new design in every other way to the brand new one on this video, the other difference being that ours is on an interior wall.
First of all, great job for service upgrade.
Only had a couple questions. But first of all, in New York we put the meter outside and the panel inside (with the 3 ft rule?).
You didn't show inside the house.
Do you install your branch circuits in a pull box, troff, gutter?... And I understand the 70 percent rule for a nipple 12" or less. But do you have to derate the wires for more than 3 current carrying conductors? ..like I said we normally have the panel in a garage or basement so we just dump all branch circuits into the top of the panel. (No weather proofing or derating required). P.S. winter in N.y. I wouldn't want to go outside to reset a breaker. Lol
Thank you for your video,
Do you have the video replaced new the Zinsco buss bar circuit breakers ?
Thank you
Awesome! Great content. Just found your channel and now you got a new subscriber. As of tomorrow, Monday, April 1st 2024, I’ll be installing a new panel in my rental property . I’m upgrading the box from 125 amps of a consolidated company from New Jersey I think, to a 200 amps Square D .
I’m not an electrician, little concerned on doing it, no joke( although it’s fool’s day) but I’ll be doing it nonetheless and got tell you that there are a lot of good tips from your channel . Cheers from Texas. 🍺
Great job! I really enjoy the commentary and the Go Pro footage. Thank you for taking the time and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for all your hardwork and great videos you do the best and explain the best ever when it comes to electrical! You are like the name Electric University the rest are just school!
I learned my electronics in the navy and you have helped me allot learning and converting that to residential especially code and I thank you!
i came here looking for the perfect job. I am trying to get better and want as many examples of really good jobs that I can find. I am curious on the layout of neutrals and hot wires. Do some cable neutrals together and hots together for neatness?
If I understand your question, youre asking how to make up a neat and workmanlike panel? So, when roughing in a house, your wires will all be pulled first. Then you can begin your make up. Going through, you strip back all the sleeves from the wires. Romex for residential usually. Land the grounds and neutrals first, other than what you need for AFCI and GFCI breakers. If you already have these breakers, you can land the neutral to them and run your pigtails from the breaker to the bus. Make sure everything is nice a tight to the corners of the gutter in the panel. You can then zip tie these if you want. It’s mostly done for overall neatness and clean looking gutters. Then land your ungrounded conductors. Hope this answers your question!
@@ElectricianU Thank you very much. You did indeed answer my question thoroughly.
Since you don’t like wire nuts to extend wire, would crimps be acceptable? They look cleaner
Nobody makes a listed crimp connector for solid core wire. Any crimps would come loose on solid wire. I personally would have either relocated the panel, or installed a remote junction box for extending the conductors. Wire nutted and soldered.
@@metalbill I’m in commercial service so I don’t typically deal with a lot of solid wire, but I agree, if I was dealing with solid I’d probably just use wire nuts.
@@metalbill incorrect. Thomas and Betts makes a crimp called C-tap connectors. They can be used on solid and stranded conductors.
Could probably use Wago 221's, smaller/compacter than wire nuts, definitely look better.
@@metalbill I thought you can't use solder for building wire by NEC standards.
I know this is an older video, but if you happened to read this, I would recommend keeping a trash bucket with you to use as your work. Obviously it keeps the job site clean as your work, but it saves time and effort later having to pickup all the refuse and it looks more professional.
Your videos are awesome man! Keep up the work. Not to take away from my schooling but I take away a ton more insight from your videos.
Dustin, understand you might be installing AFCI breakers later on. By cutting the neutrals to fit the neutral bars like you did today, are you going to be able to reach the AFCIs with the neutral conductors? Just wondering how you might be preparing for that.
He addressed this in the video, you gotta have some wire spliced into those short neutrals/hots/grounds. I've done it before when hots or neutrals weren't long enough to reach a breaker. But don't do them all at the same length. Try to alternate the lengths by doing some short or long depending on the wire so you don't have all of the wirenuts looking like a tumor at the bottom of your panel
He said the new breaker panel has the neutral aa a bar in the breaker so you won't have all the pig tails
Dustin, you did a great job. No I’m not an eletrichicken, I do ada stuff but I see a good job.
Nice clean instructions wish all electrician's did clean work like that..
Cool vid. Neutral Current doesn’t just take back the least path of resistance back to the source and ground; it takes any and all paths back including God forbid a person. That being said landing neutrals on a uninsulated ground bar one step before the grounded conductor (neutral) will cause some current to flow through the can and up the Main Bonding Screw and up the Neutral as well as the bonding jumper you attached from the ground bar to the neutral bus. ME
Up in ND/MN we don't have outdoor panels so I was wondering why u didn't have to put in a main breaker disconnect under the meter. Then I realized since your panel is outside there is no reason to install one. I was wondering though, are lever bypass meter disconnects not required in your area?
it's interesting to see how electrical installs are done over the pond. I'm an electrician in the UK and we've recently started using that style of Distribution board with the Neutral bar ran down with the bus bars for the phases so you don't have the flying leads. in regards to energising a install do you do any form of electrical testing or is it just a case of bang test ? I've just stumbled across your channel and will most likely be on one of those TH-cam deep dives that people do form time to time when they find something they are interested in haha keep up the good work
I don’t know if you installed one off camera or I didn’t catch that you did but, why didn’t you install a roof jack on your penetration through your roof? I know it was threw your over hang but won’t water still get to the exposed plywood and cause rot?
Hey dude, theses are very good videos and very useful. If you're not an instructor or teacher of the trade, you should be. This was very easy to follow. Thank you.
UH O...Did the 2" plastic bushing on the nipple coming through the wall "magically" appear after you hooked up all the neutrals or did you cut it and "slide-screw" it on?
Looking forward to your video on GFCI and AFCI with the NEC 2020 changes and your thoughts on the changes with 220 now being GFCI breakers. Hopefully Square D comes up with a PoN breakers for those down the road.
Another note is I've looked at the big box stores and only seen dual function PoN breaker and a AFCI only PoN breakers. We didn't see a spot for GFCI only PoN which in a garage circuit, the AFCI part turned into a pain in the ass with motors constantly tripping the breaker. A friend installed a dual function breaker in his new garage circuits thinking he's be covered with dual and had nothing but issues with the shop vac and his table saw tripping the breakers. He ended up installing a GFCI breaker with a pigtail to avoid the issue. I like the clean look and ease of the install with PoN breakers just wish our big box stores had them in GFCI only.
Question: can a Main Box be added to a Split Main?
My son currently has a split Main which does not separate itself from the Power Grid. As a result, he cannot put a generator into his home system without back feeding into the grid and shutting down his generator.
Thank you for answering.
Here in Florida when you install a new service you can not bring all the home runs through one connector, you have to bring them into the new panel with separate Romex conns. two to three per conn. max.
You make the best Electrical videos…….thanks mate
Great video. What Electrode did you use for your Main Service System Grounding? I'm assuming it's the bare copper conductor terminating to your Ground bus at the Main panel. Didn't saw any ground rods below so it maybe terminating to metallic CWP inside the house bonded to another supplemental electrode.
I love the last segment about people's suggestions 😂 fellow electricians can be so bad sometimes
In this main panel application you would leave the green screw in which bonds the neutral and ground conductors, unlike in a subpanel you would not, correct?
This is something I need addressed at my house, the main and two subs are all FPE.. two additional things I'd like to add though, is accommodations for solar, and a generator. It seems we lose power 2-3 times per year.. the joys of being at the very end of the line!
The electrician really starts to come out of you towards the end of the video... lol
Quick question. Isn't the meter socket now considered the main panel and the encloser is now a sub panel? Then, the neutral and grounds would need seperated. Just asking, because, when I added a standby generator, my transfer switch now became my main and my meter base was considered a sub panel which I seperated my grounds and neutrals.
If I want the service panel in the basement instead of outside, I understand now that I need a main shut-off below the meter.
Does this then make the main service panel in basement now a sub panel where grounds and neutrals are to be isolated?
Awesome video. How come you had all the breakers on the right? Shouldn't both sides be balanced?
Its interesting to see how things are done in the states, here in canada thoes neutrals wouldn't connect to a bus on the cabinet, they have to be isolated. Also we have to separate our neutrals and bonds in main panels too. We also put our panels inside, but that could be for a pretty obvious reason😅
🤔, I bet your inspections do a ohm test of the grounding system to make sure that it is up to par, which I hear is notoriously difficult to accomplish.
I have seen neutrals that have lost their connection to the service drop and as a result when you load one phase, the other phase will shoot up in voltage. It does not cut the power to the house as you would expect and can be easily missed..
@@TheSuraj03 actually no, on our construction site we just install 1 ground plate with a #6 copper, all the inspectors do is just pull on the wire to se if we actually put a plate in. Technically they can test it but its never happened to us.
@@TheSuraj03 Neutrals that lose their connection is either due to the electrician service feeder side or the lineman underground or overground service side. The grounding electrode and electrode system is only there for lightning protection. The ground that supplies the grounding electrode conductor to the line side transformers on the secondary side, should have grounded the grounded conductor for transients and balance reasons. Technically both sides claim the same I guess in case one or the other fails. If a grounding electrode conducts neutral current, there is objectionable current to fix
One you point out is a shared neutral, I found out the hard way. I was working on one circuit down in the basement and I had that circuit turned off and every once in awhile I got bit because the other circuit which the freezer was on used the same neutral so ever time the freezer came their was down stream current in the neutral because this is a old house had no additional ground wire is in the circuit. It drove me nuts until I finally figured it out.
The two breakers with a shared neutral are supposed to be connected together, so it's impossible to shut one off without also the other. And if it trips, it also causes the other to trip.
There's a rod that you use between them to physically connect them - that's why there is a hole in the handle.
great video, in Michigan they have us cut the power and hook it back up.
I think this is actually great stuff. I didn't know about the 2 pole arc fault breaker specially for shared neutrals.
Another excellent example of craftsmanship and great video!
Great video! Love all your content. Does the outdoor main shut off for the main panel substitute the emergency service shut off that is being required by the 2020 NEC. Thank you so much! 🙏
Kinda figured you would address the short conductors this way. Nice job
He did do a nice job and a lot of people don't understand that City Ordnance can override NEC Codes like he said more than one way to skin a cat and still pass inspection. You nailed also on adding a buss...
@@steve-o6413 lol I was just re-reading your comment from the other vid. We all have our tendencies n preferences
@@steve-o6413 that said, inspectors also differ in preference 🥴
Is it typical to have the service panel outdoors in USA or is this a local thing?
Not uncommon in warmer climates.
You strike me as a very sharp young man. Good job dude , I been an Electrician for 14 years but have never done a service change. I was always curious what to do if conductors were short , I agree wire nuts are hoky . But I have a question, What do you do if the hot conductors are short ? Wire nut ? Is that a code violation?
Regarding the breakers(5 minute mark). Does the brand of the breaker have to match the brand of the panel? Can you put GE breakers in a Square D box?
The 125 amp service entrance box I acquired doesn't have a top center space for a main 125 amp breaker set. Is it ok to put the main breakers at the top of one of the busses, or is this a subpanel mistakenly put in a box labeled as a "Main Service Entrance"? I live in an unregulated rural area where this "off-center" setup is pretty common and most residential wiring has never seen a licensed electrician.
Do you have a video on sub panel installation? In particular adding one to a building with a main already? You've got to but I can't find one.