Kudos for seeing the job done to the end. I am on my third trip to the dealership for some warranty transmission work. My patience is running thin. It couldn't have been a better time for you to post this video. Keep up the good work, Brian.
I just snug it up to make sure all of the slack is out and then let the spring hold the tension. Then tighten the bolt and then twist the longest run from the cam to the crank gears and make sure it can't turn more than 90 degrees.
I replaced my timing belt on my 2001 CRV. It had 187,000 miles and still looked brand new. The way Honda recommends installing the timing belt is to have the crank and cams spot timing, pin the cams, then wrap the timing belt around the crank, then around the tensioner (tightened to full relaxed position) the water pump, then partly onto the exhaust cam taking all slack from exhaust cam to crank. then slip onto the intake cam. Then you rotate the crank counter clockwise 6 full turns and stop on your timing mark . check to make sure cams are on timing marks. Loosen tensioner bolt, turn crank counter clockwise to bring slack to tensioner side 3 notches of the crankshaft and then tighten the tensioner bolt.
If you want a general rule it's this. Whichever side has the tensioner is the slack side. Whichever doesn't is the slack side. You'll find there's usually one side that's a straight shot from the crank to the cam. That will always be your tension side.
This was awesome! thank you. I'll be tearing down again in the morning. Replacing a shredded timing belt today was quite a task - to say the least. It was my first time and I'm happy to say that it actually started and ran down the road. It idled pretty low but smooth and even stalled one time - so I must be close - just not close enough. I know that the timing belt alignment is off, as I notice that TDC was difficult to achieve especially when you try to align the cranks with a 12mm. I know I'm off a little. The great thing is that all the bolts will come off easy next time. Your demonstration would have saved me a lot of time. I found a yeehaw on youtube who kinda had it right but was missing the screwdrive/dillbit TDC trick on the cams. I wish I seen it myself, but it started raining around the time I was mounting the belt- kinda hurry a little bit in the rain. Thank you. I'll try to stop back to let you know how I made out.
Worked great! Thank you. It took a 3/16" drill bit each to hold the two cams with a little play. The Crank didn't line up as perfect by the guide line and arrow, but close enough. It runs smooth with an idle 500 RPM. This video really helped out a lot. 10 hours on the first run, and after watching this, it took only 4 hours - includes an oil change.
Kirk Frederick oh, and the spring on the tensioner seems to pull an adjuster back to loosen it as the tensioner bolt is loosened. As you tighten it the adjuster moves into position and pulls the timing belt tight. You really don't have to pry against the tensioner at all - it works all by itself by design and works great. It's actually a brilliant work of engineering.
just watching this i feel so frustrated. you go to all that work and fix things that need to be fixed and believe it will solve the problem and it turns out you have been foiled!!! but seriously, u do good work.
GM side post batteries can be a PITA. Clean the battery cables and remove the cable boots checking for corrosion. Also check the main body ground and the engine block ground as well. There is a possible that the alternator exciter wire was damaged or that the wreck was enough to damage something inside of the alternator. Autozone and O'Reiley can not check the Ecotec alternators for some reason. P.S. If the headlight attaches to a plastic headlight header it is very likely broken.
I hate that led flashlight.It washes out the picture so we can't see.The laser pointer mucho better..Doesn't that camera have a light on it? I bet you get alot of business working on cars since u been online doing these videos. You are detail oriented and that's what i like in a mechanic/technician...
I've seen this problem with first gen CR-Vs. Then I did this job for a friend, the cam was actually lose and I was able to turn it with my hand. So I think that tight cam pulley was caused by the tight exhaust valves. The car I worked on burned the exhaust valve at 120K miles - couple of years later after replacing the timing belt. The way I like to set the belt tensioner is to put it and and bend the cloth hanger and use it to hook the spring end and pull into the position.
Any big job that I spent hundreds in parts and machining I bill at least that or half the total up front if it's someone is unestablished with me, or if I really don't want the car or if anything warrants it. That way if they die, cut bait, or whatever I don't feel it financially. It's an anxiety/stress thing for me, but it's almost never needed. Just a comfort with some commitment.
Even with the cam timing off a bit, one other way to check if it was cam timing or a valve problem would have been (with #4 at TDC), check that the valves for that cylinder weren’t being held open - even back off the adjusters until you have some play in the rockers - then repeat your test. If it’s still leaking air, it’s not cam timing.
I am a tech at a local Honda dealer here and almost every first gen CRV I have seen will eventually need a Head or complete Motor. Putting a brand new Head on a motor with 100 to 200k miles isnt good for the bottom end. Hence a complete engine replacement. Problem is that buying a used engine you run the risk of the same problem happening soon after replacement. Honda just had a poor design with the valve train on the B20 series engines.
Nice video covered all the things amateurs need to know. The one that I think would be challenging to change is the chains on newer Honda's because you have to deal with cam timing vvt adjuster and the oil pressure tension ratchet adjuster. All good stuff to digest before you even pop the cover. Mostly you find these on K series engines.
I had a REALLY stuck one recently. Let me see if I have any footage from that. They're supposed to just pull off by hand. I had to weld nuts on the face of the above mentioned one and use a bolt puller to get it off.
Brian, i used to have a Kawaski Z-1, and the cam chain was installed by counting the teeth from intake to exhaust to be sure the cams were timed properly
Nice video . Good for other B series Acura / Honda engine like Integra B18B engine too. Your method of setting the tensioner is not quite what the manual describes but it obviously works. However, I followed the method in the manual . Thanks for making for these very helpful automotive repair videos.
Those cam pins sure are a slick idea. I wouldn't worry about the marks as long as the bars are up before pins are in. This should be done every 100K and never put off replacing the water pump when you have it this far down. Also make sure to drain and flush your Honda cooling system at its earliest interval recommended in the owners Manual or I would say once a year or cycle of seasons. This is to slow the decay that occurs on the aluminum from the breakdown of your coolant. Have a deuce running like shit? Do the whole seafoam treatment. That stuff is not a gimmick. Get around the folks with big boats for going out deep sea fishing or that kind of watercraft. They use the stuff a lot. Its not that fake octane booster BS. Seafoam knocks out a lot of carbon buildup and varnish. Heard knocking valves go silent with it. It gets my backing for any gear head to use.
Great video as always. Thanks. Are the CRV's pretty good cars. I realize it's a Honda. But are there any model specific issues? Been thinking of getting a CRV. Thanks
Years ago when laser pointers first came out people would shine them at airplanes at night. The laser light shining into the cockpit would cause pilots to become temporarily blind and couldn't land the plane.
I wish I knew those cam pin holes were there a year ago, nice info. BTW... Water pump- I was told "only buy a Honda replacement or else it will leak." After researching, that is not entirely true. You can buy a no-name replacement, but it MUST be from the country of manufacture (in this case Japan, NOT China). Reason being the tiny difference in metal content causes different rates of thermal expansion/contraction in comparison to the block, resulting in a leak. Just thought I would share.
OMG, Brian, I thought you were going to open it up and find out they put the belt on inside out. I've seen dealers make some pretty dumb mistakes. Of course the customer probably wouldn't have made it out of their parking lot but that would have been hilarious.
I have such a device. It is high powered enough to light a match, and I use it for teaching astronomy. Fortunately no such rule is in play where I live, but I can see why it's a law in America. Laser lights are used in missile guidance systems, and it could be used to guide a SAM into a jet. Also, there is potential to blind a landing pilot, which wouldn't be good. I've heard of jets being scrambled to arrest delinquent kids playing with lasers, so it's a big deal.
That was a piss-poor job by the mechanic who originally installed the TB....just another reason why I do my own maintenance. In the next couple of months I'll be doing the third TB job on my '98 CRV which currently has 285,000 miles.The first time I didn't know about the cam holder trick and it drove me crazy but I eventually got it done and all of the marks were lined-up perfectly. The second time was significantly easier since I knew about the cam holders at that point.
These more advanced repairs are great, Brian. You addressed a question I've always wondered about. Is it fair to say that the tight side is found by learning which way the engine rotates, then observing that power comes from a pulling action from the crank (on the tight side)? Is your point that the tight side is always to the front a reliable rule?
Here in AUS they're banned (apart from some pissy low powered pointers) because of aviation security issues - people kept pointing them at planes and then the police helicopters are then playing hide and seek with the cops - maybe it's the same kind of deal? In any case it's a shame, I miss laser pointers
Nice job. I've got a 2008 CRV that I was adjusting the valves on and decided to do a compression check because it had been missing. 3 cylinder head 190 PSI but number two was only a hundred and twenty. It had been setting a check engine light for p0172 which is rich exhaust or fuel trim reading. I would assume the exhaust valve is leaking which would be consistent with both of those conditions. I've done a ton of research online but haven't really found any problems like this on the 2007 through 2011 CRV like they had on the earlier model CRV. Since you're a Honda technician I wonder if you've heard of valve problems on this later model? Thanks again for your great write-up
I sure wish I had a nice garage to do work like this without the worry of finishing fast. Cars are very convenient until they give you issues, but, it's life, it's not the end of the world. Modern world issues.
Dealerships have the worst mechanics in the business. The reason for that is they dont want to pay their employees much. Anyone that is any good will only work at a dealership for a short time.
Love the video. Question: Aren't you supposed to get the crank marks exact or are you have going' to adjust the distributor to get the timing dead on. I am doing the timing belt on this exact engine right now and can't get the marks to line up either but always thought you could. I wondered if there is a way around not having the crank marks exact. Please help!
Hi Brian! Great job!!!!! How can you tell that the timing belt tension is correct at this one? There is no pointer or similar. Manuals tell you to use expensive tools for tension setting... So confused.. Thanks
W up bro where can got good timer belt kit and the crankshaft sensor where can got good parts my Honda CR-V 2000 ex 5 speed foot Joe bro thank you video
Brian, you're my only hope. I did a timing belt on a 96 integra. Pretty much the same motor. I line up the timing marks for the crank using the oil pump housing, I put them dead on with the cams. I locked the cams in place with drill bits, the works. But, the harmonic balancer TDC mark was off by a bit. I ran it, didn't bend any valves so it's not off by much, but I have all sorts of misfire codes. Can I adjust the timing with the distributor or do I need to go back and line up the balancer?
Brian i got another quick question, i got in a very minor fender bender, the day before (it was there fault) the girl ran into my driver side bumper, all it did was crack the bumper and broke the head light, but after that the charging light came on and off so i tested it the battery was good at12.5 volts but when i started it up it dropped to 12, and then when i turned the blower and head lights on it went down to 11.5 11.8 and stayed there, the alternator was fine before it.....
I just did my timing belt on my 1997 Honda CRV rotated at six times with tensioner loose top dead center I tighten the tensioner should I have backed it off three three teeth on the gear then tighten it like you say I will I be okay I just don't want it to jump time any help would be greatly appreciated
Since Honda's use a CVCC engine design with interference. It it possible the timing belt broke or the tech put it in wrong the first time to break the valve?
What I like most about these videos. Is your demeanor. Never pissed
Kudos for seeing the job done to the end. I am on my third trip to the dealership for some warranty transmission work. My patience is running thin. It couldn't have been a better time for you to post this video. Keep up the good work, Brian.
Thank you very much! I just read some troll comments- it's nice to get positive feedback like this.
Kudos for the positive attitude after all said and done, I would have been cursing the hell out of it
I just snug it up to make sure all of the slack is out and then let the spring hold the tension. Then tighten the bolt and then twist the longest run from the cam to the crank gears and make sure it can't turn more than 90 degrees.
I replaced my timing belt on my 2001 CRV. It had 187,000 miles and still looked brand new. The way Honda recommends installing the timing belt is to have the crank and cams spot timing, pin the cams, then wrap the timing belt around the crank, then around the tensioner (tightened to full relaxed position) the water pump, then partly onto the exhaust cam taking all slack from exhaust cam to crank. then slip onto the intake cam. Then you rotate the crank counter clockwise 6 full turns and stop on your timing mark . check to make sure cams are on timing marks. Loosen tensioner bolt, turn crank counter clockwise to bring slack to tensioner side 3 notches of the crankshaft and then tighten the tensioner bolt.
You're welcome- great to hear from you.
Dude you would be my mechanic in a heartbeat if I lived in your neck of the woods!
Thanks and thanks for the feedback.
Great detailed video for the crv timing belt I would have liked to actually see you pull apart the Waterpump and belt though
If you want a general rule it's this. Whichever side has the tensioner is the slack side. Whichever doesn't is the slack side. You'll find there's usually one side that's a straight shot from the crank to the cam. That will always be your tension side.
This was awesome! thank you. I'll be tearing down again in the morning. Replacing a shredded timing belt today was quite a task - to say the least. It was my first time and I'm happy to say that it actually started and ran down the road. It idled pretty low but smooth and even stalled one time - so I must be close - just not close enough. I know that the timing belt alignment is off, as I notice that TDC was difficult to achieve especially when you try to align the cranks with a 12mm. I know I'm off a little. The great thing is that all the bolts will come off easy next time. Your demonstration would have saved me a lot of time. I found a yeehaw on youtube who kinda had it right but was missing the screwdrive/dillbit TDC trick on the cams. I wish I seen it myself, but it started raining around the time I was mounting the belt- kinda hurry a little bit in the rain. Thank you. I'll try to stop back to let you know how I made out.
Worked great! Thank you. It took a 3/16" drill bit each to hold the two cams with a little play. The Crank didn't line up as perfect by the guide line and arrow, but close enough. It runs smooth with an idle 500 RPM. This video really helped out a lot. 10 hours on the first run, and after watching this, it took only 4 hours - includes an oil change.
Kirk Frederick
oh, and the spring on the tensioner seems to pull an adjuster back to loosen it as the tensioner bolt is loosened. As you tighten it the adjuster moves into position and pulls the timing belt tight. You really don't have to pry against the tensioner at all - it works all by itself by design and works great. It's actually a brilliant work of engineering.
great video / good lighting
It's good to know we still have pod and honest people out in the world:) thanks so much sir.
Amen with some exceptions. They pay one good guy top $ to stay and baby sit all the others.
Love the Ron Paul poster!
Thank you for your time
just watching this i feel so frustrated. you go to all that work and fix things that need to be fixed and believe it will solve the problem and it turns out you have been foiled!!! but seriously, u do good work.
GM side post batteries can be a PITA. Clean the battery cables and remove the cable boots checking for corrosion. Also check the main body ground and the engine block ground as well. There is a possible that the alternator exciter wire was damaged or that the wreck was enough to damage something inside of the alternator. Autozone and O'Reiley can not check the Ecotec alternators for some reason.
P.S. If the headlight attaches to a plastic headlight header it is very likely broken.
I hate that led flashlight.It washes out the picture so we can't see.The laser pointer mucho better..Doesn't that camera have a light on it?
I bet you get alot of business working on cars since u been online doing these videos. You are detail oriented and that's what i like in a mechanic/technician...
I subscribed because of the Ron Paul poster.
Just got around to seeing this and I must say great work in both the vid and your meticulous explanation of the procedure
I've seen this problem with first gen CR-Vs. Then I did this job for a friend, the cam was actually lose and I was able to turn it with my hand. So I think that tight cam pulley was caused by the tight exhaust valves. The car I worked on burned the exhaust valve at 120K miles - couple of years later after replacing the timing belt. The way I like to set the belt tensioner is to put it and and bend the cloth hanger and use it to hook the spring end and pull into the position.
Any big job that I spent hundreds in parts and machining I bill at least that or half the total up front if it's someone is unestablished with me, or if I really don't want the car or if anything warrants it. That way if they die, cut bait, or whatever I don't feel it financially. It's an anxiety/stress thing for me, but it's almost never needed. Just a comfort with some commitment.
Even with the cam timing off a bit, one other way to check if it was cam timing or a valve problem would have been (with #4 at TDC), check that the valves for that cylinder weren’t being held open - even back off the adjusters until you have some play in the rockers - then repeat your test. If it’s still leaking air, it’s not cam timing.
I haven't use a machine shop for a subaru job like this since.... yesterday. And that was the third one this month.
There are a couple of service bulletins on this issue. Anyway great video love the detail you put into it and wow is that intake valve toast!!
Good work
I am a tech at a local Honda dealer here and almost every first gen CRV I have seen will eventually need a Head or complete Motor. Putting a brand new Head on a motor with 100 to 200k miles isnt good for the bottom end. Hence a complete engine replacement. Problem is that buying a used engine you run the risk of the same problem happening soon after replacement. Honda just had a poor design with the valve train on the B20 series engines.
Nice video covered all the things amateurs need to know. The one that I think would be challenging to change is the chains on newer Honda's because you have to deal with cam timing vvt adjuster and the oil pressure tension ratchet adjuster. All good stuff to digest before you even pop the cover. Mostly you find these on K series engines.
Great and funny vid!
I had a REALLY stuck one recently. Let me see if I have any footage from that. They're supposed to just pull off by hand. I had to weld nuts on the face of the above mentioned one and use a bolt puller to get it off.
It didn't hit the piston, but it did help it to not close all the way and burn up the valve.
I do try to. Thanks for noticing ; )
good luck bud, what a pain in the ass. you would think the dealer of all people would do it right.
GMB generally work very well on these.
Could be burned valves, blocked catalytic converter, egr valve stuck open, fuel filter restriction etc.
GREAT JOB MY BROTHER!!!!!
Here it's illegal to "break the horizon" with them or basically you can't aim them at the sky for whatever reason. I don't know why.
Go back in and re set the timing belt properly. This time make sure all your slack is on the tensioner side and the other side has the belt tight.
Thanks!
Welcome
lol Looks like you've been busy- hopefully having a good time!
Brian, i used to have a Kawaski Z-1, and the cam chain was installed by counting the teeth from intake to exhaust to be sure the cams were timed properly
wish you would have shown how to get the crankshaft pulley off
They're pretty decent if you service them right.
i learn so much from you mate ! thankyou!
amazing how little power it takes
Nice video . Good for other B series Acura / Honda engine like Integra B18B engine too. Your method of setting the tensioner is not quite what the manual describes but it obviously works. However, I followed the method in the manual . Thanks for making for these very helpful automotive repair videos.
Those cam pins sure are a slick idea. I wouldn't worry about the marks as long as the bars are up before pins are in.
This should be done every 100K and never put off replacing the water pump when you have it this far down.
Also make sure to drain and flush your Honda cooling system at its earliest interval recommended in the owners Manual or I would say once a year or cycle of seasons. This is to slow the decay that occurs on the aluminum from the breakdown of your coolant.
Have a deuce running like shit? Do the whole seafoam treatment. That stuff is not a gimmick. Get around the folks with big boats for going out deep sea fishing or that kind of watercraft. They use the stuff a lot. Its not that fake octane booster BS.
Seafoam knocks out a lot of carbon buildup and varnish. Heard knocking valves go silent with it. It gets my backing for any gear head to use.
Great video as always. Thanks. Are the CRV's pretty good cars. I realize it's a Honda. But are there any model specific issues? Been thinking of getting a CRV.
Thanks
Great video man! Thanks for posting this, and I am glad you got this working for the owner!
Blinding the pilots of commercial air liners. It was on the news, its very serous thing.
Awesome video. Very thorough and detailed. Thanks for this vid.
Years ago when laser pointers first came out people would shine them at airplanes at night. The laser light shining into the cockpit would cause pilots to become temporarily blind and couldn't land the plane.
I wish I knew those cam pin holes were there a year ago, nice info.
BTW... Water pump- I was told "only buy a Honda replacement or else it will leak." After researching, that is not entirely true. You can buy a no-name replacement, but it MUST be from the country of manufacture (in this case Japan, NOT China). Reason being the tiny difference in metal content causes different rates of thermal expansion/contraction in comparison to the block, resulting in a leak. Just thought I would share.
Never heard that but it makes sense. Especially with aluminum that is super sensitive to heat.
Very helpful video.
Doesnt get any better than that. Thanks !!
OMG, Brian, I thought you were going to open it up and find out they put the belt on inside out. I've seen dealers make some pretty dumb mistakes. Of course the customer probably wouldn't have made it out of their parking lot but that would have been hilarious.
Honda hasn't used a CVCC head design since they switched from using carburetors to fuel injection (during the 80's)
Could be.
Thanks
I have such a device. It is high powered enough to light a match, and I use it for teaching astronomy. Fortunately no such rule is in play where I live, but I can see why it's a law in America. Laser lights are used in missile guidance systems, and it could be used to guide a SAM into a jet. Also, there is potential to blind a landing pilot, which wouldn't be good. I've heard of jets being scrambled to arrest delinquent kids playing with lasers, so it's a big deal.
YEAH!
I bet there's some Subaru guru's in Oregon. Check some of the Subaru forums- you'll find a good one.
You bet!
Also, thanks for all the great videos!
That was a piss-poor job by the mechanic who originally installed the TB....just another reason why I do my own maintenance. In the next couple of months I'll be doing the third TB job on my '98 CRV which currently has 285,000 miles.The first time I didn't know about the cam holder trick and it drove me crazy but I eventually got it done and all of the marks were lined-up perfectly. The second time was significantly easier since I knew about the cam holders at that point.
These more advanced repairs are great, Brian. You addressed a question I've always wondered about. Is it fair to say that the tight side is found by learning which way the engine rotates, then observing that power comes from a pulling action from the crank (on the tight side)? Is your point that the tight side is always to the front a reliable rule?
I rolled my eyes. I accepted it. And then I moved on.
Another great, informative video!
The cam timing problem must have been introduced later. It could not have damaged just one cylinder.
I want a video response or it wouldn't happen.
Here in AUS they're banned (apart from some pissy low powered pointers) because of aviation security issues - people kept pointing them at planes and then the police helicopters are then playing hide and seek with the cops - maybe it's the same kind of deal? In any case it's a shame, I miss laser pointers
Great video!
Nope. Just move'n on.
Nice job. I've got a 2008 CRV that I was adjusting the valves on and decided to do a compression check because it had been missing. 3 cylinder head 190 PSI but number two was only a hundred and twenty. It had been setting a check engine light for p0172 which is rich exhaust or fuel trim reading. I would assume the exhaust valve is leaking which would be consistent with both of those conditions. I've done a ton of research online but haven't really found any problems like this on the 2007 through 2011 CRV like they had on the earlier model CRV. Since you're a Honda technician I wonder if you've heard of valve problems on this later model? Thanks again for your great write-up
I sure wish I had a nice garage to do work like this without the worry of finishing fast. Cars are very convenient until they give you issues, but, it's life, it's not the end of the world. Modern world issues.
Excellent video Brian...keep it up
Dealerships have the worst mechanics in the business. The reason for that is they dont want to pay their employees much. Anyone that is any good will only work at a dealership for a short time.
hmm pretty sure the little tensioner at the end was for a/c. but yeah who cares! awesome vid!!
Like the G.W.B #43 poster
yep
Bummer man. I'd blame the dealer being off a tooth on that chipped valve. if its and interference motor.
I got this head machined etc. The mileage is 156K
1. about a 5-6 2. about a 3
well cant say you didnt give it a try, better luck next time
Good job bro
Love the video. Question: Aren't you supposed to get the crank marks exact or are you have going' to adjust the distributor to get the timing dead on. I am doing the timing belt on this exact engine right now and can't get the marks to line up either but always thought you could. I wondered if there is a way around not having the crank marks exact. Please help!
Brian you do great work bro! A true professional...
yep.
Hi Brian! Great job!!!!! How can you tell that the timing belt tension is correct at this one? There is no pointer or similar. Manuals tell you to use expensive tools for tension setting... So confused.. Thanks
that does not look like new damage. sounds like they had issue and the dealership half ass incorrectly addressed the problem.
thank you
i don't think any pilots have crashed from lasers in their eyes. just majorly pissed off
W up bro where can got good timer belt kit and the crankshaft sensor where can got good parts my Honda CR-V 2000 ex 5 speed foot Joe bro thank you video
Brian, you're my only hope. I did a timing belt on a 96 integra. Pretty much the same motor. I line up the timing marks for the crank using the oil pump housing, I put them dead on with the cams. I locked the cams in place with drill bits, the works. But, the harmonic balancer TDC mark was off by a bit. I ran it, didn't bend any valves so it's not off by much, but I have all sorts of misfire codes. Can I adjust the timing with the distributor or do I need to go back and line up the balancer?
Brian i got another quick question, i got in a very minor fender bender, the day before (it was there fault) the girl ran into my driver side bumper, all it did was crack the bumper and broke the head light, but after that the charging light came on and off so i tested it the battery was good at12.5 volts but when i started it up it dropped to 12, and then when i turned the blower and head lights on it went down to 11.5 11.8 and stayed there, the alternator was fine before it.....
I just did my timing belt on my 1997 Honda CRV rotated at six times with tensioner loose top dead center I tighten the tensioner should I have backed it off three three teeth on the gear then tighten it like you say I will I be okay I just don't want it to jump time any help would be greatly appreciated
Since Honda's use a CVCC engine design with interference. It it possible the timing belt broke or the tech put it in wrong the first time to break the valve?