Metering powder like that with that trickier would drive me insane. I have 2 electric powder dispensers I then recheck the drop on a beam scale while it’s metering out the next charge.
I powder charge from dispenser 1gn low into the black funnel pan then trickle to scale. I then wipe lube from case. For speed I also direct pour into funnel & Lee powder thru die. I solved the powder loss you showed by cleaning die & funnel & coating with graphite sprayed on Q tip to eliminate static. Also carefull to raise the case fully into die so powder can't leak. For safety I check every 10th on scale.
I have a Lyman case trim express which is nice but I have to use the .223 collet for 5.7x28 since they don't make one. It is a terrible fit and I end up wrecking my thumbs pressing it in there and trying to hold it straight. What is that hand primer you are using to hold the shells and what is the trimmer? Looking for a faster and more thumb friendly way to trim my 5.7 brass since I seem to need to do it almost every time I load them. Also I would highly recommend the Lyman case prep xpress for the chamfer/debur step, or the hornandy or rbcs equivilant. They are pricey but save so much time over doing them as separate steps. I do all my reloading except 5.7 on a Hornandy Progressive press and have an old Single stage Lyman press that my grandfather left me that I use for 5.7. I used to have a turret press and I loved it but once you go progressive its hard to go back. Sadly not only does Hornandy not make shell plates for 5.7 but even if they did I would not trust a powder dropper on such a finicky cartridge.
I have the Lyman case trim express as well and did a video or two on that previously. For 5.7x28 case trimming, I'm using either a WFT or CTS (can't recall) trimmer. Set it once and forget it. Unfortunately, considering it's dedicated to one caliber, it's not the least expensive solution. I have recently picked up a Hornady Case Trim Center (there's a few vids on that as well) that can trim (as well as chamfer/debur in one unit) just about any caliber as it cam locks the base of the brass and trims vertically from above (think drill press). The hand primer that's I'm using to lock in the brass case is a Frankford Arsenal Perfect Priming Tool. Works great and ALL the shell holders are included!
@@ReLoadersBench I actually found your video on the trimmers a couple hours after my comment, going to try one other thing first then probably one of those. I also have a Lee Deluxe Power quick trim that chamfers and deburs at the same time as it trims. I didnt love it for .223 because I load that on my progressive and the trimmer dumps brass shavings all over the shell plate and jams it up, but I do 5.7 on a single stage and the trim dies for 5.7 are just $18 so worth a shot if it saves time. So far I have not had awesome longevity with my 5.7 reloads, they run just fine in my PS90, Ruger57 and S&W M&P57 but I only get 2-3 reloads per case on average before the necks start cracking. I did chrono them recently and I am getting 1800-1850 out of a pistol and up to 2250 FPS out of my PS-90 so they are super spicy. I am using 5.5gr of IMR 800X which is well under the maximum. There is no sign of primers getting flattened or overpressure in the guns but its obviously working the cases so going to back that down quite a bit.
@@kenny3217 I'm a BIG Lee fan and like their quick trim solutions...for low volume. They do a nice job and are beyond economical IMO. Since I've invested in the Hornady Case Prep Center and need to get my "value" (meaning use it...a LOT) out of it, that will be my go to for trim, chamfer and debur. I have an entire series of videos on the 5.7x28 from start to finish in addition to this one.
Yes, the brass has a coating (i.e., some type of lacquer) that you need to be careful of when cleaning. I use an ultrasonic cleaner only for 5.7 brass, everything else is dry tumbled. I think I have a video on cleaning the 5.7 brass as well. I did something like 15 videos on everything related to 5.7. I've not had any issues.
Looks Like you got the process down. I am wondering how these rounds shot though? I've never put that much powder in mine. With a 40gn projectile the most I put in is 5.5 grains of True Blue. Usually I keep it at 5.3grains. The load data I have worked off of came out of the Lee manual. It said start load of 5.0gn and max 5.6gn. I haven't had any issues with pressure, and all shot just fine. Just some food for though, but you might want to look into the Lee Quick Trim Die set up. I love it. Trim, chamfer and deburr all in one step. Right on the press. So quick and precise. Good video, Bud!!
@@ReLoadersBench No problem. Since its such a short case you'll have to remove the bushing at the top of the cutting shaft. It pops right off with a good tug. Let me know how those rounds you loaded preformed. Happy shooting.
Recommending anything on YT is sure to start a Ford/Chevy "debate". Presses/dies are like cars, everyone has a fav, and their fav is of course the best. That being said, 5.7x28 isn't a difficult round to reload, you just have to be aware of a couple of issues. The biggest (and most dangerous) is powder charge. The deltas on the powders for this round (I use True Blue) for too little, just right and too much are very slim, so I would ONLY hand measure/charge this caliber. Don't know anyone that shoots 5.7x28 in volume (now someone will jump in saying they do), so a single stage press (e.g., turret from 419, Lyman, MEC, Redding, Lee, etc. - depending on your budget) would be my choice. This round is not about pumping out volume like 9mm or 45ACP it's about exactness and precision. The other issue to consider is brass prep. This caliber has a special coating (some type of lacquer) to aid in feeding (I think more so for the p90 rifle than for pistols) that cannot be dry tumbled, must be cleaned in a sonic cleaner with the appropriate solution. I wouldn't go down the "kit" path for any press. Much of the bundled components are of lower quality than what you'd purchase individually. But, that's just my opinion. If you do buy a kit, you will end up purchasing much of the included goodies, but only higher quality and more $. I think I have like 15+ videos in total on this caliber that cover EVERYTHING I've just mentioned but in greater detail. Hope this helps.
For my ladder rounds I was pretty careful. If I start to get FTF/FTE my first thought would be the coating is diminished. The sonic cleaning will be another test as I let the "clean" probably too long.
Vanilla Gorilla - I agree that the 5.7x28 load is sensitive due to pressure concerns, but my Hornady digital scale has served me quite well over many years and many calibers, all the way up to the 190 grains I fill my 416 Barrett (what I jokingingly refer to as my big bomb) so I trust it for measuring accurately for what I now refer to as my little bomb :-) But your concern is valid and gives me an idea for a follow up video comparing my Hornady digital scale to my favorite RCBS scale for accuracy.
@@ReLoadersBench my only press and I don't think I'd get another maybe another lee press but idk lee gets alot of bs because there not expensive but they have good quality
@@jeremiah7855 - Lee offers not only GREAT value in reloading gear but excellent quality as well. Sure, there are more expensive versions of Lee offerings, but higher price doesn't necessarily mean better part/quality. I'm sure others will argue that fact as some can't see beyond the color/brand of what they own/use.
Yes, that is the FA Perfect Seat Hand Priming Tool that I'm using as a "holder" for short brass (and a large primer seater to "lock" in the brass). The shell holder is the #15 (can't recall if that's in the FA kit or I used my Lee version).
Do you have ti have the exspander die. I am not newxto relaoding but individuals have told me taht you don't. I have crashed my necks a little but when seating the bullet is there a step I am missing here please help I really appreciate it.
My sizing or resizing steps happen at: 1. Die one - decap and full length resize to spec 2. Die two - slightly bell case mouth (and powder charge) 3. Die four - factory crimp This process works well for me on the 5.7x28 round
@@ReLoadersBench gotcha taht what I was doing when I got to the ke third die crimp die step. I didn't put the case up through the press to fit the die over the case. I did a newbie mistake which thia is a little different than some cases I reload.. i couldn't see how you did some of them but went back and listen to your video well done brother
@@ReLoadersBench also read thoroughly the Lee paper work wit the dies. Most die I have used regarding Lee wasn't this problematic but I made it problematic lol
@@ReLoadersBench I didn't know that there was a 4th die which the Pwoder Through Die in pistol cases opens the mouth of the case a little but thia being a bottle lneck cases round it falls between both rifle and pistol so thia caliber by nature is a little tricky for sure.
The unknown powder jug comes in more handy than you'd think. Cleaning up "bench powder" (spills) at times but more so for rounds that have come into my possession that I can't verify or need to disassemble for "parts". Very easy and now economical to reuse unfired primers, brass and pills. As a habit, I will discard powder and the jug is a perfect container for that. Either burn it at some point or use as fertilizer ;-)
Funny you should mention crimp for the 5.7x28. When I took my last reloads to the range to chronograph, I was getting, on average, 700 fps. WAY too low in my opinion for loading at the top end of the safe range (5.7 +/- .1 gr of Ramshot TrueBlue with a Hornady 40gr VMax). I should have been seeing 1,600-1,800 fps for that load. Took apart some of the reloads to look things over. No crimp "line" on the bullet head, so that tells me I wasn't applying a heavy crimp, but given the pressure sensitivities of this round, I decided to do the following: 1. Recheck my COAL/seating to ensure it is what Ramshot recommends (not Lyman or Lee as they all seem to differ ever so slightly on their recommendations) 2. Re-adjust my crimping to be as light as possible (was even considering doing a string without crimping to test fps). So, I'll be making a video of this shortly as well as now that I've made these adjustments (COAL/crimp), I will do a ladder string of 5.5/6/7/8 on TrueBlue to see the fps (which when I'm at 5.8gr should be around 1,800 fps or so...DEFINITELY not averaging 700 if all works out well).
@@ReLoadersBench looking forward to video, ill be testing my first rounds next weekend, im running mine through ps90. I'll let you know if I discover any useful info,
Took my first 50 rounds to the range yesterday. My results were 5.4 true blue average 2114, 5.6gr 2210. This is out of a Ps90 , 40gr vmax. Facotry ammo was 2375, so I'm ok with 2210, less where and tear on brass. How ever this was with no crimp, I don't even have the crimp die yet.
That was a few years ago and honestly can't remember. Was whomever had them in stock and cheapest/fastest shipped at the time I was shopping (Midway, Brownell's, Midsouth, Titan Reloading, Joe Bob, etc.)
No just pay attention most powders cant be overcharged Lyman 49th. The dies and scrapping the coating is the hard part. Also a hornady universal trimmer dont work unless you have a machinist drill out a spare shell holder to the pins width. It works great once you work out all the roadblocks set up for you.
![Is 5.7x28mm Just Overpriced .22 Magnum? [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I9sBMgau4ew/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video brother, I use my Lee Precision classic turret press for all my 223, and 300 Blackout, and Pistol rounds. Echo
Metering powder like that with that trickier would drive me insane. I have 2 electric powder dispensers I then recheck the drop on a beam scale while it’s metering out the next charge.
Will be interested to see how they shoot and function. Good job
Nice video my man!
I powder charge from dispenser 1gn low into the black funnel pan then trickle to scale. I then wipe lube from case. For speed I also direct pour into funnel & Lee powder thru die. I solved the powder loss you showed by cleaning die & funnel & coating with graphite sprayed on Q tip to eliminate static. Also carefull to raise the case fully into die so powder can't leak. For safety I check every 10th on scale.
Thanks for the info.
I have a Lyman case trim express which is nice but I have to use the .223 collet for 5.7x28 since they don't make one. It is a terrible fit and I end up wrecking my thumbs pressing it in there and trying to hold it straight. What is that hand primer you are using to hold the shells and what is the trimmer? Looking for a faster and more thumb friendly way to trim my 5.7 brass since I seem to need to do it almost every time I load them. Also I would highly recommend the Lyman case prep xpress for the chamfer/debur step, or the hornandy or rbcs equivilant. They are pricey but save so much time over doing them as separate steps.
I do all my reloading except 5.7 on a Hornandy Progressive press and have an old Single stage Lyman press that my grandfather left me that I use for 5.7. I used to have a turret press and I loved it but once you go progressive its hard to go back. Sadly not only does Hornandy not make shell plates for 5.7 but even if they did I would not trust a powder dropper on such a finicky cartridge.
I have the Lyman case trim express as well and did a video or two on that previously. For 5.7x28 case trimming, I'm using either a WFT or CTS (can't recall) trimmer. Set it once and forget it. Unfortunately, considering it's dedicated to one caliber, it's not the least expensive solution. I have recently picked up a Hornady Case Trim Center (there's a few vids on that as well) that can trim (as well as chamfer/debur in one unit) just about any caliber as it cam locks the base of the brass and trims vertically from above (think drill press). The hand primer that's I'm using to lock in the brass case is a Frankford Arsenal Perfect Priming Tool. Works great and ALL the shell holders are included!
@@ReLoadersBench I actually found your video on the trimmers a couple hours after my comment, going to try one other thing first then probably one of those. I also have a Lee Deluxe Power quick trim that chamfers and deburs at the same time as it trims. I didnt love it for .223 because I load that on my progressive and the trimmer dumps brass shavings all over the shell plate and jams it up, but I do 5.7 on a single stage and the trim dies for 5.7 are just $18 so worth a shot if it saves time. So far I have not had awesome longevity with my 5.7 reloads, they run just fine in my PS90, Ruger57 and S&W M&P57 but I only get 2-3 reloads per case on average before the necks start cracking. I did chrono them recently and I am getting 1800-1850 out of a pistol and up to 2250 FPS out of my PS-90 so they are super spicy. I am using 5.5gr of IMR 800X which is well under the maximum. There is no sign of primers getting flattened or overpressure in the guns but its obviously working the cases so going to back that down quite a bit.
@@kenny3217 I'm a BIG Lee fan and like their quick trim solutions...for low volume. They do a nice job and are beyond economical IMO. Since I've invested in the Hornady Case Prep Center and need to get my "value" (meaning use it...a LOT) out of it, that will be my go to for trim, chamfer and debur. I have an entire series of videos on the 5.7x28 from start to finish in addition to this one.
Ive heard that brass has some special coating to help extraction. Have you hsd any issues with the brass.
Yes, the brass has a coating (i.e., some type of lacquer) that you need to be careful of when cleaning. I use an ultrasonic cleaner only for 5.7 brass, everything else is dry tumbled. I think I have a video on cleaning the 5.7 brass as well. I did something like 15 videos on everything related to 5.7. I've not had any issues.
Looks Like you got the process down. I am wondering how these rounds shot though? I've never put that much powder in mine. With a 40gn projectile the most I put in is 5.5 grains of True Blue. Usually I keep it at 5.3grains. The load data I have worked off of came out of the Lee manual. It said start load of 5.0gn and max 5.6gn. I haven't had any issues with pressure, and all shot just fine. Just some food for though, but you might want to look into the Lee Quick Trim Die set up. I love it. Trim, chamfer and deburr all in one step. Right on the press. So quick and precise. Good video, Bud!!
Thanks for the reminder on the Lee Quick Trim...picked a few up for other calibers when they first came out a few years ago.
@@ReLoadersBench No problem. Since its such a short case you'll have to remove the bushing at the top of the cutting shaft. It pops right off with a good tug. Let me know how those rounds you loaded preformed. Happy shooting.
Are these Lee Precision reloading kits good for reloading 5.7×28 I'm wanting to start reloading so I need some advice on what kit I should get
See my reply to this same question on my other video. Might want to watch all my vids on this caliber to answer your question(s).
Thanks , i plan to load for this caliber when I find the dies and case gauge for it .
You're welcome. I have quite a few videos on different aspects of reloading 5.7x28.
What would be the best reloading kit for 5.7×28
Recommending anything on YT is sure to start a Ford/Chevy "debate". Presses/dies are like cars, everyone has a fav, and their fav is of course the best. That being said, 5.7x28 isn't a difficult round to reload, you just have to be aware of a couple of issues. The biggest (and most dangerous) is powder charge. The deltas on the powders for this round (I use True Blue) for too little, just right and too much are very slim, so I would ONLY hand measure/charge this caliber. Don't know anyone that shoots 5.7x28 in volume (now someone will jump in saying they do), so a single stage press (e.g., turret from 419, Lyman, MEC, Redding, Lee, etc. - depending on your budget) would be my choice. This round is not about pumping out volume like 9mm or 45ACP it's about exactness and precision. The other issue to consider is brass prep. This caliber has a special coating (some type of lacquer) to aid in feeding (I think more so for the p90 rifle than for pistols) that cannot be dry tumbled, must be cleaned in a sonic cleaner with the appropriate solution. I wouldn't go down the "kit" path for any press. Much of the bundled components are of lower quality than what you'd purchase individually. But, that's just my opinion. If you do buy a kit, you will end up purchasing much of the included goodies, but only higher quality and more $. I think I have like 15+ videos in total on this caliber that cover EVERYTHING I've just mentioned but in greater detail. Hope this helps.
Thanks for sharing your brass session with us. Do you recall where you got your lead mold ?
Did you shave off any of the laquer as you sized it? And if any is lost is it acceptable? Pics?
For my ladder rounds I was pretty careful. If I start to get FTF/FTE my first thought would be the coating is diminished. The sonic cleaning will be another test as I let the "clean" probably too long.
You are brave
..... i wouldnt trust my hornady powder dispenser for such speciffic sensitive loads
Vanilla Gorilla - I agree that the 5.7x28 load is sensitive due to pressure concerns, but my Hornady digital scale has served me quite well over many years and many calibers, all the way up to the 190 grains I fill my 416 Barrett (what I jokingingly refer to as my big bomb) so I trust it for measuring accurately for what I now refer to as my little bomb :-)
But your concern is valid and gives me an idea for a follow up video comparing my Hornady digital scale to my favorite RCBS scale for accuracy.
Love my lee turret press
LCT...my first press, my most versatile press and absolutely hands down my favorite press!
@@ReLoadersBench my only press and I don't think I'd get another maybe another lee press but idk lee gets alot of bs because there not expensive but they have good quality
@@jeremiah7855 - Lee offers not only GREAT value in reloading gear but excellent quality as well. Sure, there are more expensive versions of Lee offerings, but higher price doesn't necessarily mean better part/quality. I'm sure others will argue that fact as some can't see beyond the color/brand of what they own/use.
Interested in how things are made, electrical wire i think is the most intricate.
Is that the Frankford arsenal priming hand tool.
What shellholder are you using for priming these cases?
Yes, that is the FA Perfect Seat Hand Priming Tool that I'm using as a "holder" for short brass (and a large primer seater to "lock" in the brass). The shell holder is the #15 (can't recall if that's in the FA kit or I used my Lee version).
Why doesn't Hornady have the 5.7x28 in their reloading books?
Maybe in the soon to be released newest edition
its on there web site
Holy champher batman
Do you have ti have the exspander die. I am not newxto relaoding but individuals have told me taht you don't. I have crashed my necks a little but when seating the bullet is there a step I am missing here please help I really appreciate it.
My sizing or resizing steps happen at:
1. Die one - decap and full length resize to spec
2. Die two - slightly bell case mouth (and powder charge)
3. Die four - factory crimp
This process works well for me on the 5.7x28 round
@@ReLoadersBench gotcha taht what I was doing when I got to the ke third die crimp die step. I didn't put the case up through the press to fit the die over the case. I did a newbie mistake which thia is a little different than some cases I reload.. i couldn't see how you did some of them but went back and listen to your video well done brother
@@ReLoadersBench also read thoroughly the Lee paper work wit the dies. Most die I have used regarding Lee wasn't this problematic but I made it problematic lol
@@ReLoadersBench I didn't know that there was a 4th die which the Pwoder Through Die in pistol cases opens the mouth of the case a little but thia being a bottle lneck cases round it falls between both rifle and pistol so thia caliber by nature is a little tricky for sure.
"Unknown powder bin?"
The unknown powder jug comes in more handy than you'd think. Cleaning up "bench powder" (spills) at times but more so for rounds that have come into my possession that I can't verify or need to disassemble for "parts". Very easy and now economical to reuse unfired primers, brass and pills. As a habit, I will discard powder and the jug is a perfect container for that. Either burn it at some point or use as fertilizer ;-)
Whose power drill is that?
Chicago Electric from Harbor Freight many years ago.
Wonder why the lyman 49th is different then the 50th.
I dont think my 49th has any info in 5.7x28
Did your powder trickler come with a cover for the powder hopper? Mine did not. :(
Mine did not either. I picked up an aluminum cap from Lowes and sprayed it in my favorite all purpose coating...truck bed.
@@ReLoadersBench OK, Thanks. I used the cap off a can of black spray paint. It works, but your idea looks a lot nicer.
How much crimp you applying? Light, med, or heavy ?
Funny you should mention crimp for the 5.7x28. When I took my last reloads to the range to chronograph, I was getting, on average, 700 fps. WAY too low in my opinion for loading at the top end of the safe range (5.7 +/- .1 gr of Ramshot TrueBlue with a Hornady 40gr VMax). I should have been seeing 1,600-1,800 fps for that load. Took apart some of the reloads to look things over. No crimp "line" on the bullet head, so that tells me I wasn't applying a heavy crimp, but given the pressure sensitivities of this round, I decided to do the following:
1. Recheck my COAL/seating to ensure it is what Ramshot recommends (not Lyman or Lee as they all seem to differ ever so slightly on their recommendations)
2. Re-adjust my crimping to be as light as possible (was even considering doing a string without crimping to test fps).
So, I'll be making a video of this shortly as well as now that I've made these adjustments (COAL/crimp), I will do a ladder string of 5.5/6/7/8 on TrueBlue to see the fps (which when I'm at 5.8gr should be around 1,800 fps or so...DEFINITELY not averaging 700 if all works out well).
@@ReLoadersBench looking forward to video, ill be testing my first rounds next weekend, im running mine through ps90. I'll let you know if I discover any useful info,
Took my first 50 rounds to the range yesterday. My results were 5.4 true blue average 2114, 5.6gr 2210. This is out of a Ps90 , 40gr vmax. Facotry ammo was 2375, so I'm ok with 2210, less where and tear on brass. How ever this was with no crimp, I don't even have the crimp die yet.
What case gauge is that?
Sheridan Engineering
Where did you get the Die set?
That was a few years ago and honestly can't remember. Was whomever had them in stock and cheapest/fastest shipped at the time I was shopping (Midway, Brownell's, Midsouth, Titan Reloading, Joe Bob, etc.)
Is this round as complicated to reload as people make it out to be? Im new to reloading so I wont reload it. Just wondering.
No its not. just pay closer attention (which you should be doing with all reloading anyways)
No just pay attention most powders cant be overcharged Lyman 49th. The dies and scrapping the coating is the hard part. Also a hornady universal trimmer dont work unless you have a machinist drill out a spare shell holder to the pins width. It works great once you work out all the roadblocks set up for you.