It's interesting to see Peter struggle a bit with the longer length. I go to drifting events and take like 7,000 photos and I get a few hundred that to maybe a 1,000 that sharp, but the ones I like lol that another story.
@@dammitcooper You make a good point. I think a lot of people don’t understand that when you shoot live action where you can’t control every aspect the shoot ratio is insane. I regularly shoot events and end up with 5000+ shots over a day. The final selection often less than 300 shots. Especially shots with a lot of variables such as multiple people, moving objects make it tricky to get that one shot were everything lines up. I remember reading an article about the SuperBowl shooters a few year ago. The literally shoot tens of thousands of photos over the duration of the game just to end up with a handful of photos the editor likes.
Pete!!! THANK YOU for showing your out of focus shots....and saying most were out of focus. For those of us who are beginning...and very unsure of what we are doing....it is soooo awesome knowing that someone as talented as you doesn't continually take 'bangers'. Thanks for all you do!
@@nickthaskater yes!!!! Seeing just the finished product is beautiful, inspiring, and disheartening all at the same time! This video made me feel not so loser-ish! Haha
I am a shooter for a Lamborghini racing team in the US, and ended up just going with the 100-400 because there are a few tracks where you do need that reach. Most of the time I use the 70-200, because I have media access which gets us a lot closer to the tack. I will say there is a huge difference when I do use a faster lens with a ND. Its a lot more work, but totally worth it! I have been shooting automotive for years, and after a whole week of racing I usually end up with about100 photos. Very much a spray and pray! The only thing I would say is shooting through the eyepiece with both eyes open really helps! (helps you track the car a lot more)
Bullnicorn comment takeover, I see you. The 100-500 lens was way too much for where they were shooting. 70-200 would have been far better for that vantage they had.
@@FlyingLapMedia what up!!! Haha for real man! It’s rare that I find my self in a position needing more then 200. Except NOLA, I wish I had like a 800+. Haha
@@thefullmag I have Sigma's 150-600, and I use it pretty much exclusively for butterflies (zoom in to 600mm and focus as close as possible), birds, and the moon. So it's not to say supertelephoto lenses aren't awesome, they're just kinda niche!
@@SkylabBeats I would totally agree! They are super fun to use, but not buy if you dont have a specific reason for them. You have the perfect use case! Wild life is most definitely a reason to get one! Took a picture of a Moose once.... really wish i had more reach then 200 then! haha
Once you see where the F1 cars are on the track... I wonder if manually pre-focussing on the track would increase the sharp success rate? Those drivers are pretty accurate with the positioning each lap and you can let them drive into focus!
I love watching Peter try and try until he gets the results he wants. Sometimes we stop shooting and think we're not good enough. But it's all about practice. Nice message, Peter!!!
I've shot quite a bit of motorsport and I always found it better to pre-focus on a spot in one-shot mode (prior to the car coming) hold that focus then snap a single frame as it passed that point. I got a much better hit rate than trusting the tracking focus and burst mode. Learned it shooting Karts with a manual focus film camera :)
I was literally thinking that I would probably try to pre-focus at that distance and would have a higher chance of hitting the frame. Great video by Pete though, it’s great to see that not every shot is a banger and that like on every photoshoot it’s all about trying to work the problem and find the solution.
I have the 100-500,s granddad. The 100-400 L series with the push zoom. It’s 15+ years old and has outlasted any other of my lenses. It’s cost over 3K when new and has made its money back ten fold and more. Love it.
Love the way you show we all get it wrong no matter how much you spend. To many videos say you need this body or lens then you can be brilliant every time. Cool man.
My polite advice as someone who shoots motorsports - *don't* rely on AF for pan shots. Manually focus on a spot on the ground the cars pass through, and follow the car as it drives through the path / target. Shoot several pictures before, during, and after the target point. Manually focusing nets you way better results for fast moving race cars. Trust me on that.
Single point focus has always been my go to for slow pans. The R5 always nails the focus and it gives you a reference point to follow a specific part of the car 🤙
I'm slumming it on my canon 600 mm and 800 mm and loving it! I bought both together for $1400 after taxes! Refurbished but the reach is amazing and the pictures are great. Sure, if you compare side by side, the expensive will be better but it's not so obvious when you don't compare side by side.
Bro i bought myself a canon EOS 1500d. I want to buy a long telephoto lens, what option i have? I want more than 300mm ? Right now i am using efs 55-250 mm
This is a great video! Thanks for taking us along for the shooting process, along with the post production and why you might choose to include or exclude certain frames. Awesome!
I´d try to shoot through the viewfinder with my arms quite tight on my body... then you have the most points of contact to stabilize your lens, and I find it easier to follow a subject in the viewfinder compared to a small screen on the back of a camera with stretched out arms. If I miss a panning shot, it´s usually not a matter of focus, but rather of panning a little too slow/fast and getting motion blur... Cheers
The best Motorsport pans are when the car is square on to you as it is not getting bigger or smaller in the frame as it passes by. The approach shots and shots of it going past will blur if the shutter is set for a side on pan. When I am shooting at the track, my shutter speed is set for the shot I want based on the position of the car to me. Ie coming towards me (1/1500), at 45 degrees (1/200) and going past side on 1/125 to 1/60. Get a few bankers at 1/125 before slowing down to 1/100, 1/80, 1/60. You only need one banger out of the bunch!
Thank you thank you for showing us that the All Mighty Master doesn't get every shot, every time. 🙏 I know its hard to show, but it makes you human. We all love watching you!
Like others, just wanted to say thanks for showing your process, with failures and successes... as well as your tips to just practice. This hobby/profession takes time to get cool art. I've done it for years and have gotten more efficient at it, but I've also gotten rusty. Stay in practice! Nice work and really appreciate you sharing the whole process.
While focus was definitely an issue it appears that a lot of them were also just blurred bc not being able to pan fast enough. Quick tip for panning on cars... Put a focus point on a spot of the car. Like a side mirror or decal or headlight etc. If it is on the same spot when the image returns then chances are your shot is crisp. That and shoot fewer with focus on getting one good one per pan instead of 5 but eh shots. Every time you take a shot you are blind. Minimize that time and get get that banger rate up!! 👍👍
I have both lenses and I have to say that after using the 100-400, then switching to the 100-500.... the 1-500 wins! Such crisp sharp images! I love it!
So much rawness and honesty in this vid! Thanks for showing all the photos - both the bangers and the out of focus ones! You made many aspiring and amateur photographers gain confidence with this video! Not everytime we can get bangers. 1 good photo out of 10 bad photos is all that matters! :)
I have the RF 100-400 and it's amazing; using it on my RP and I'm able to get some fantastic wildlife shots! Not ideal for moving subjects sometimes, but gets the job done :)
Tip to make this work. Always double your focal length in shutterspeed, so if you shoot at 100mm, try not to go below 1/200 as a starting point. For more motion blur (but also a risk of out of focus shots) go slower. Also use Stabilization setting 2 on the lens, that one is optimized for panning shots.
Not sure you’d get the effect you’re looking for with that… i usually go to between 1/50 and 1/100 when at around 70-115mm. Above that i usually go to around 1/125 - 1/160
I like the fact that you stayed real and showed the misfocused shots. I love the fact that you still manage to make bangers out of "bad shots" True artistery here :)
15:53 this shot is pretty cool, it's a nice contrast to the previous two shots where the cars are in focus instead. It would be awesome to see this lens taking some WRC shots.
I just got the 100-500mm too. I too have a low keeper count for these type of shots with my R5. I got this lens for Track & Field, Soccer, Superbike, lacrosse, rodeo and other venues where I can't get close enough for my 200mm. I also like the focus BG with the car or bike screaming by in a blur.
I just bought this lens before this video came out to shoot Drum Corps this season. Its an amazing lens for capturing on the field performers. having a blast!!
Hey Pete! Awesome video! Started shooting at Drift races last year and had exactly the same struggles with panning, such a hit and miss style but when it hits, it HITS!
Question. Why didn’t you pre focus? I know most photographed today don’t use the technique but you’d nail the focus at the point you want it locked in at. For those who’ve never tried this for shooting racing you’d lock the focus at exactly where you want it sharp. Follow the subject there start firing before the focused point and through it. You’ll basically mail it every time. You’re welcome.
because most photographers today are lazy and do everything in auto mode. Maybe 1 out of 1000 can even shoot in or know that manual mode exists on their camera
A friendly neighbourhood tip for those who are NOT shooting on 2000$+ cameras: Whenever I shoot panning shots on my a7 (not IV, not III, but the first one...), I simply use single shot auto focus, focus on the road wherever I EXPECT the subject will be (IE usually right in front of me like where Peter got most of the successful shots). Downside is that of course the shots of the subject leading up to the middle won't be perfectly in focus, but at least you don't have to rely on fancy AF systems :) Hope this can help others out who want to try it
First time I used this lens was for the Pikes Peak Hill Climb in 2021 and it is fantastic for that job. PPIHC is basically a hike that you occasionally stop and take pictures of race cars on course. Love this lens for it's combination of light weight and focal length.
Thank you for this video so much! There are so many usefull tips and insides, and also the fact that you show honestly how difficult it may be to get good shots and that sometimes there might be just a few good ones, or how you said, you might not even get a single one that is acceptable, is really valuable. The ones that you showed us are awsome. Love them ♥️ So thanks one more time and waiting for more ♥️
The rain photo is insane, I would definitely put it on the wall at home. You can see how the water behind the car gets affected by aerodynamics and shoots upwards. They call it a rooster's tail.
13:30 100% agree. I got a good "bad" shot of the thunderbirds flying in a formation at the last airshow I shot... its one of my favorite shots from the show.
I’m using that lens with an R5 for about an year. That’s a great lens and I was able to capture amazing wildlife photos with it. The only drawback is that f/7.1 it limits the shooting when it is dark and that’s the time most of the wildlife is active.
Fun fact: I was at the Porsche Carrera Cup Germany in austria this year. I got asked to do some REELs for one of the drivers. They didn't need ANY photos. But I was renting the 150-600mm Sigma Sport for testing purposes because I knew I would need quite some focal length on the track. Besides the fact that 600mm isn't even enough in some cases I still ended up getting around 4000 photos on two days. So yeah...you gotta love clicking through tons of photos using this technique :D
Back in 2011-12 I was an accredited photographer for MotoGP and World Superbikes (top two levels of Motorcycle racing). At some tracks (Silverstone) I would be at 600mm, went to Brno in the Czech republic with a 400mm and found I was too close in places and swapped to a 70-200
Nice to see you talk about the 100-400mm lens with it being the non-professional choice. I was thinking about looking in to it but thought it can't be that good, can it? Now seeing you hold it up on your channel and praise it I'll be taking a 2nd look.
Thanks for showing all the misses… I shoot motorsports as a hobby and was always wondering if pros miss as often as I do. Now I feel a lot better about my technique!
I shoot bikes a lot and it's so much easier using a car as a tracking vehicle to get those blurred speed shots, but that means you need a third person to drive, plus a much shorter lens. Panning is never easy and hit and miss at the best of times at such high speeds. Great honest video
When I shoot panning shots if I know where the cars are going to pass me I like to fix focus on manual at that distance and then you just have to worry about panning at the right speed
Pete! Really loved the break down of what you were doing behind the lens. You should do more of this kind of stuff noting your lens, what your settings are with the BTS action. DO MORE OF THIS STUFF, PLEASE!!
If you need it, it’s worth it. Being an occasional trackside non-professional photographer, I find that it takes time to get up to the right panning speed. A smaller lighter lens is obviously helpful as there is less inertia. I rarely panned on the EF system with my 200-400L because the lens was just too unwieldy. But panning is only one technique and I get my more dramatic shots at corners.
Great video! 500mm does seem excessive for everything except birds. For the same weight, I’d probably prefer to lug around a faster 300 or 400mm. For the F1 shots - why don’t you just manual focus on the section of track you want for your particular composition? I think that would give more consistent results than expecting the Servo mode to catch it (especially with a lateral motion - it does better with oncoming subjects IMHO). Just my 2c. Thanks for all the great content as always!
@@FallLineJP tough nut to crack F1 they’re very choosy who they give credentials to - but if you have any experience with racing and want a media pass to shoot GT cars, let me know. 🏁
This was really great man, I rented the 100-500mm a few months ago and liked it for capturing birds and various desert wildlife. Then I saw the 100-400mm and as you mentioned it is far cheaper, well I got that lens now and I tell you it takes phenomenal shots being paired with my R5 so I'm happy with the $600 lens. The tips for shooting movement I think will help me a lot thanks for those!
Hey Pete, are you using the right stabilisation mode on the lens? My eyes might be letting me down, but it looks like you have the lens set to 1, which I think is good for stationary objects. 2 is good for panning and might help with those shots?
I have been out of Photography for a while, as my son gains interest I've been getting back into it. I remember 20+ years ago photographing in manual for the point that I wanted in the pan to be in focus, I nailed the shot more often than not with film cameras. Auto Focus is great, but if your in a fixed position, trying to get the shot with the particular background you want, Manual is still useful. The hardest part then was timing the shutter and making sure I'm cropped where I need to be. Zooming out a little in camera give the ability to punch in a little in post. Shutter speed at 1/100th of second, I'd argue that a lot of your 'not sharp' shots may have been motion blur rather than the systems fault. When your shooting pans, tuck that elbow in and and keep the camera up to your eye and you'll be far more stable and limit that motion blur to your pan rather than adding up and down blur.
Did you meet Jamey Price at all? He specialises in motorsport photography. He suggests to use manual focus over auto focus. I guess everyone uses what they are comfortable with. I want to try this for myself as it looks fun.
Thanks for such an informative video! Really appreciate the test video of the lens and the real process of choosing the photos and critiques. Great job 👍
An important thing to mention, is if you want a fast, 400mm+ lens, you'll need to spend $10,000+ for the primes. $3000 is actually decent compromise if you're looking for weather sealing and stabilization!
I always run a ND filter for photographing racing events. So you don’t have to keep your aperture at f18. I like to keep it around f10 1/100 sec and adjust iso for exposure. That’s a beast of a setup! I’m still using my 5D IVs and might go mirrorless after I kill all my bodies 😂 400k shutter count and still no issues!
Also the 3 useable photos and 100 shots taken is so accurate! I’ll shoot 10,000 photos during a weekend event and have 200-300 useable photos! It’s like fishing. Just gotta keep throwing the hook and eventually you’ll get the bite!
@@LiveToLoop yep another digital newbie that never grew up when you had to know how to use a camera. Tell you what slick shoot 10,000 negatives/slides and only keep 200, LOL you will be broke in a day. Maybe learning how to photograph and use a camera would do you a lot of good! Hell shoot in 8K that is 32 megapixel shots and you can waste tons of frames.
What you needed to do here. Is anticipate and make distance with the zoom. -Zoom out to 500mm as the bike is far - pick a spot to focus on before the bike gets there -then shoot as the bike gets to that point.. Obviously more on the oncoming side of the rider.. - get familiar with the zoom direction on the lens as to be able to zoom out as the bike gets closer.
Absolutely love you showed the imperfections. I follow you because I'm inspired by your content, but I other the photographer videographer TH-camrs and they constantly show their awesome photos making always thinking why aren't my photos fire like that. I do everything I believe they do and they don't look like, or only 1 out of 100 I would show someone. Saying that not every shot is a banger and then also showing a photo that is blurry and you would still use it puts me back in reality that we are all human and I am not gonna get it right every time stop stressing so hard. DONE IS BETTER THAN PERFECT.
Awesome to hear! Yes! Camera rolls and Lightroom film strips aren’t always all glamour! Sometimes it’s just finding the gem. Sometimes you get lucky. Sometimes everything sucks! But all of it is a learning experience and the hope is you are always improving! Good luck!
Can’t even imagine how this will look like on my new R7. Ok, not into bird fotography but thats a huge lens. The RF100mm Macro on the other had, well thats interesting. Nice to see rocking a two tone D. You have got taste, not just in case of rings and cameras… Cheers Pete
Thank god I'm not the only one sifting through 10 out of focus shots to get to one good shot. That was really cool of you to show dude.
☮️🕺💜
10? more like 100s
On track you should use manual focus and you will increase from 1/10 ratio to 5/10 !
First focus on the tarmac and then wait for the car and pray 😜
It's interesting to see Peter struggle a bit with the longer length. I go to drifting events and take like 7,000 photos and I get a few hundred that to maybe a 1,000 that sharp, but the ones I like lol that another story.
@@dammitcooper You make a good point. I think a lot of people don’t understand that when you shoot live action where you can’t control every aspect the shoot ratio is insane. I regularly shoot events and end up with 5000+ shots over a day. The final selection often less than 300 shots. Especially shots with a lot of variables such as multiple people, moving objects make it tricky to get that one shot were everything lines up.
I remember reading an article about the SuperBowl shooters a few year ago. The literally shoot tens of thousands of photos over the duration of the game just to end up with a handful of photos the editor likes.
Pete!!! THANK YOU for showing your out of focus shots....and saying most were out of focus. For those of us who are beginning...and very unsure of what we are doing....it is soooo awesome knowing that someone as talented as you doesn't continually take 'bangers'. Thanks for all you do!
☮️🕺💜
Shot road America the other week. I went in thinking, if I get 10 photos out of 1500+, I would call it a successful day.
Came here to say this. It was so reassuring to see the "failures" (read: process) rather than just pure perfection shot after shot.
@@nickthaskater yes!!!! Seeing just the finished product is beautiful, inspiring, and disheartening all at the same time! This video made me feel not so loser-ish! Haha
I was coming to say the same thing so I will just go ahead and
like the comment hahaha
I am a shooter for a Lamborghini racing team in the US, and ended up just going with the 100-400 because there are a few tracks where you do need that reach. Most of the time I use the 70-200, because I have media access which gets us a lot closer to the tack. I will say there is a huge difference when I do use a faster lens with a ND. Its a lot more work, but totally worth it! I have been shooting automotive for years, and after a whole week of racing I usually end up with about100 photos. Very much a spray and pray! The only thing I would say is shooting through the eyepiece with both eyes open really helps! (helps you track the car a lot more)
Thanks for the eye piece tip! ;)
Bullnicorn comment takeover, I see you. The 100-500 lens was way too much for where they were shooting. 70-200 would have been far better for that vantage they had.
@@FlyingLapMedia what up!!! Haha for real man! It’s rare that I find my self in a position needing more then 200. Except NOLA, I wish I had like a 800+. Haha
@@thefullmag I have Sigma's 150-600, and I use it pretty much exclusively for butterflies (zoom in to 600mm and focus as close as possible), birds, and the moon.
So it's not to say supertelephoto lenses aren't awesome, they're just kinda niche!
@@SkylabBeats I would totally agree! They are super fun to use, but not buy if you dont have a specific reason for them. You have the perfect use case! Wild life is most definitely a reason to get one! Took a picture of a Moose once.... really wish i had more reach then 200 then! haha
Once you see where the F1 cars are on the track... I wonder if manually pre-focussing on the track would increase the sharp success rate? Those drivers are pretty accurate with the positioning each lap and you can let them drive into focus!
Definitely! I use manual focus all time when shooting motorsports. Especially for panning shots
I love watching Peter try and try until he gets the results he wants. Sometimes we stop shooting and think we're not good enough. But it's all about practice. Nice message, Peter!!!
100-500 is my most used lens on my R6 for photos ! Love it for sports, wild life and hiking. Perfekt for making cool kite surf photos !
I've shot quite a bit of motorsport and I always found it better to pre-focus on a spot in one-shot mode (prior to the car coming) hold that focus then snap a single frame as it passed that point. I got a much better hit rate than trusting the tracking focus and burst mode. Learned it shooting Karts with a manual focus film camera :)
This is a smart method. Thanks for sharing!
I shot F1 with a film camera once and this is exactly how I did it. Works pretty good.
Spot on! Did the same working horse shows.. Even tho. they were a tad slower then F1.. :)
I was literally thinking that I would probably try to pre-focus at that distance and would have a higher chance of hitting the frame. Great video by Pete though, it’s great to see that not every shot is a banger and that like on every photoshoot it’s all about trying to work the problem and find the solution.
you always have to Pre-Focus, otherwise is not gonna work
I have the 100-500,s granddad. The 100-400 L series with the push zoom. It’s 15+ years old and has outlasted any other of my lenses. It’s cost over 3K when new and has made its money back ten fold and more. Love it.
That first shot of checo is awesome
Love the way you show we all get it wrong no matter how much you spend. To many videos say you need this body or lens then you can be brilliant every time. Cool man.
My polite advice as someone who shoots motorsports - *don't* rely on AF for pan shots. Manually focus on a spot on the ground the cars pass through, and follow the car as it drives through the path / target. Shoot several pictures before, during, and after the target point. Manually focusing nets you way better results for fast moving race cars. Trust me on that.
Single point focus has always been my go to for slow pans. The R5 always nails the focus and it gives you a reference point to follow a specific part of the car 🤙
The man who inspired the creators world…thanks, from all of us!
🤘🏼
@Don't Read My Profile Photo I won’t
☝️🇲🇦☝️🇲🇦☝️🇲🇦☝️🇲🇦☝️🇲🇦☝️
قال صلّى الله عليه وسلّم:" من قرأ آية الكرسي عقب كلّ صلاة مكتوبة، لم يمنعه من دخول الجنّة إلا أن يموت "، صحيح الجامع
I'm slumming it on my canon 600 mm and 800 mm and loving it! I bought both together for $1400 after taxes! Refurbished but the reach is amazing and the pictures are great. Sure, if you compare side by side, the expensive will be better but it's not so obvious when you don't compare side by side.
I had both 600 and 800, returned the 600mm. Not really impressed with the 800, either. I’m better off using 100-500 and cropping in.
@@TinkeringNerd to each his own...
@@TinkeringNerd yup me too. My RF 100-500mm is used every day. My RF800, only twice.
If you're reading this, the work you've been putting in is going to pay off real soon! Just please don't stop! Keep going 💯🙏🏽!
Thank you
Yeah
this better be a shitpost
Bro i bought myself a canon EOS 1500d.
I want to buy a long telephoto lens, what option i have? I want more than 300mm ? Right now i am using efs 55-250 mm
@@shariqhussain9353 an affordable option is a tamron 18-400mm.
Oh man, fun teaser on the opening! Great review as always!
I was literally just looking into this lens after I saw the F1 video, perfect timing!
This is a great video! Thanks for taking us along for the shooting process, along with the post production and why you might choose to include or exclude certain frames. Awesome!
I´d try to shoot through the viewfinder with my arms quite tight on my body... then you have the most points of contact to stabilize your lens, and I find it easier to follow a subject in the viewfinder compared to a small screen on the back of a camera with stretched out arms. If I miss a panning shot, it´s usually not a matter of focus, but rather of panning a little too slow/fast and getting motion blur... Cheers
Love when Pete uploads … inspires me to up my TH-cam game 🔥 Thanks Pete ❤️
The best Motorsport pans are when the car is square on to you as it is not getting bigger or smaller in the frame as it passes by. The approach shots and shots of it going past will blur if the shutter is set for a side on pan. When I am shooting at the track, my shutter speed is set for the shot I want based on the position of the car to me. Ie coming towards me (1/1500), at 45 degrees (1/200) and going past side on 1/125 to 1/60. Get a few bankers at 1/125 before slowing down to 1/100, 1/80, 1/60. You only need one banger out of the bunch!
Thank you thank you for showing us that the All Mighty Master doesn't get every shot, every time. 🙏 I know its hard to show, but it makes you human. We all love watching you!
Like others, just wanted to say thanks for showing your process, with failures and successes... as well as your tips to just practice. This hobby/profession takes time to get cool art. I've done it for years and have gotten more efficient at it, but I've also gotten rusty. Stay in practice! Nice work and really appreciate you sharing the whole process.
It is always a pleasure to watch your videos, It's entertaining from start to finish 🙌🏼
While focus was definitely an issue it appears that a lot of them were also just blurred bc not being able to pan fast enough.
Quick tip for panning on cars...
Put a focus point on a spot of the car. Like a side mirror or decal or headlight etc. If it is on the same spot when the image returns then chances are your shot is crisp. That and shoot fewer with focus on getting one good one per pan instead of 5 but eh shots. Every time you take a shot you are blind. Minimize that time and get get that banger rate up!! 👍👍
not blind shooting in live mode as he was. These are mirrorless cameras, duh
Yes I was a bit annoyed that he was labeling so many photos out of focus... Some clearly wern´t, they were just blurry.
I have both lenses and I have to say that after using the 100-400, then switching to the 100-500.... the 1-500 wins! Such crisp sharp images! I love it!
This video is so much quality, so many advices and so valuable. Thank you.
Thank you!!
The best photo came just in time for the best LET’S GO CHECO 🇲🇽🤘🏻
Peter! One of my top 5 favourite videos of yours, thank you so much 💪🙏 really hope you’ll more of these
I look forward to every video you do Pete! Always inspires me as a photographer but also as a filmmaker.
I just wanna say thankyou for your decision to make this channel purely about photography again
Sincerely,
Everyone
Excellent Tutorial Video. Thank You Peter!
when Pete said " when i was shooting F1" my brain went "holy shit! that's an insane F stop!!" until i realized :P
Please don't believe this cheated reply and complain this
I like how he went out to test it and walked everyone through on what he was doing
I few weeks ago I shot Indy Car at Road America and used your Dawn preset. Gave it a a great dramatic look to the racing. Great video Pete! 👍
"There are instances where I might come back and have Nothing". - these words are so inspiring. If the Guru says like that why worry about out losses
So much rawness and honesty in this vid! Thanks for showing all the photos - both the bangers and the out of focus ones! You made many aspiring and amateur photographers gain confidence with this video! Not everytime we can get bangers. 1 good photo out of 10 bad photos is all that matters! :)
duuudee! Your friend listens to hardstyle! 8:32 Reverse bass! :D Lets go!!
I have the RF 100-400 and it's amazing; using it on my RP and I'm able to get some fantastic wildlife shots! Not ideal for moving subjects sometimes, but gets the job done :)
I really love this style of video. The raw unedited process of shooting and editing!!! Keep it up!! 👍👍
Manual focus on the track Pete. That way all you have to do is sort your panning & that’s just rhythm 😜
Tip to make this work. Always double your focal length in shutterspeed, so if you shoot at 100mm, try not to go below 1/200 as a starting point. For more motion blur (but also a risk of out of focus shots) go slower. Also use Stabilization setting 2 on the lens, that one is optimized for panning shots.
Not sure that rule works anymore. Canon's stabilizers broke it.....
Not sure you’d get the effect you’re looking for with that… i usually go to between 1/50 and 1/100 when at around 70-115mm. Above that i usually go to around 1/125 - 1/160
YES!!!!! another 20 minute tuesday thats what im talking about
I think the angle of the F1 and the fence in between does not help much. But you can fiddle alot with the stickyness of AF
I like the fact that you stayed real and showed the misfocused shots.
I love the fact that you still manage to make bangers out of "bad shots"
True artistery here :)
You help me not want to give up and to be happy/proud of the process. Thank you.💓
15:53 this shot is pretty cool, it's a nice contrast to the previous two shots where the cars are in focus instead. It would be awesome to see this lens taking some WRC shots.
Thanks for an honest break down. Its not always easy but practice does help. Get out and shoot. Cheers.
I just got the 100-500mm too. I too have a low keeper count for these type of shots with my R5. I got this lens for Track & Field, Soccer, Superbike, lacrosse, rodeo and other venues where I can't get close enough for my 200mm. I also like the focus BG with the car or bike screaming by in a blur.
Great video! I love that you NEVER just “phone it in!”
The sponsor for this video is spot on for me, glad you chose to work with them Peter! I didn't know about them
Instead of relying on servo tracking, maybe focus trap technique can be used in F1 scenario to increase the success rate of capturing great shots.
That’s exactly how actual race photographers do this. Whatever this was it ain’t a tutorial. More of a watch a pro fail.
This is my next lens! Thanks so much, Pete! Waving from California 🤘🏼
I just bought this lens before this video came out to shoot Drum Corps this season. Its an amazing lens for capturing on the field performers. having a blast!!
Thanks for sharing your throw-away shots. So many photographers present only perfect photos. I have more than my share of throw-aways.
Hey Pete! Awesome video! Started shooting at Drift races last year and had exactly the same struggles with panning, such a hit and miss style but when it hits, it HITS!
Question. Why didn’t you pre focus? I know most photographed today don’t use the technique but you’d nail the focus at the point you want it locked in at.
For those who’ve never tried this for shooting racing you’d lock the focus at exactly where you want it sharp. Follow the subject there start firing before the focused point and through it. You’ll basically mail it every time.
You’re welcome.
because most photographers today are lazy and do everything in auto mode. Maybe 1 out of 1000 can even shoot in or know that manual mode exists on their camera
A friendly neighbourhood tip for those who are NOT shooting on 2000$+ cameras: Whenever I shoot panning shots on my a7 (not IV, not III, but the first one...), I simply use single shot auto focus, focus on the road wherever I EXPECT the subject will be (IE usually right in front of me like where Peter got most of the successful shots). Downside is that of course the shots of the subject leading up to the middle won't be perfectly in focus, but at least you don't have to rely on fancy AF systems :) Hope this can help others out who want to try it
First time I used this lens was for the Pikes Peak Hill Climb in 2021 and it is fantastic for that job. PPIHC is basically a hike that you occasionally stop and take pictures of race cars on course. Love this lens for it's combination of light weight and focal length.
Thank you for this video so much! There are so many usefull tips and insides, and also the fact that you show honestly how difficult it may be to get good shots and that sometimes there might be just a few good ones, or how you said, you might not even get a single one that is acceptable, is really valuable. The ones that you showed us are awsome. Love them ♥️ So thanks one more time and waiting for more ♥️
The rain photo is insane, I would definitely put it on the wall at home. You can see how the water behind the car gets affected by aerodynamics and shoots upwards. They call it a rooster's tail.
Nice. But one question: Would you choose a R3 or R5 with RF 100-500 over a Lumix S5 II with new Sigma L-Mount 60-600? If yes, why? If no, why? 👍
13:30 100% agree. I got a good "bad" shot of the thunderbirds flying in a formation at the last airshow I shot... its one of my favorite shots from the show.
I’m using that lens with an R5 for about an year. That’s a great lens and I was able to capture amazing wildlife photos with it. The only drawback is that f/7.1 it limits the shooting when it is dark and that’s the time most of the wildlife is active.
Good thing the R5 can handle insanely high ISO.
Fun fact: I was at the Porsche Carrera Cup Germany in austria this year. I got asked to do some REELs for one of the drivers. They didn't need ANY photos. But I was renting the 150-600mm Sigma Sport for testing purposes because I knew I would need quite some focal length on the track. Besides the fact that 600mm isn't even enough in some cases I still ended up getting around 4000 photos on two days. So yeah...you gotta love clicking through tons of photos using this technique :D
Back in 2011-12 I was an accredited photographer for MotoGP and World Superbikes (top two levels of Motorcycle racing). At some tracks (Silverstone) I would be at 600mm, went to Brno in the Czech republic with a 400mm and found I was too close in places and swapped to a 70-200
Hello 👋
Nice to see you talk about the 100-400mm lens with it being the non-professional choice. I was thinking about looking in to it but thought it can't be that good, can it? Now seeing you hold it up on your channel and praise it I'll be taking a 2nd look.
Absolutely love your videos! Everything about them! You're amazing :)
Thanks for showing all the misses… I shoot motorsports as a hobby and was always wondering if pros miss as often as I do. Now I feel a lot better about my technique!
I shoot bikes a lot and it's so much easier using a car as a tracking vehicle to get those blurred speed shots, but that means you need a third person to drive, plus a much shorter lens. Panning is never easy and hit and miss at the best of times at such high speeds. Great honest video
When I shoot panning shots if I know where the cars are going to pass me I like to fix focus on manual at that distance and then you just have to worry about panning at the right speed
Pete! Really loved the break down of what you were doing behind the lens. You should do more of this kind of stuff noting your lens, what your settings are with the BTS action. DO MORE OF THIS STUFF, PLEASE!!
If you need it, it’s worth it. Being an occasional trackside non-professional photographer, I find that it takes time to get up to the right panning speed. A smaller lighter lens is obviously helpful as there is less inertia. I rarely panned on the EF system with my 200-400L because the lens was just too unwieldy. But panning is only one technique and I get my more dramatic shots at corners.
Great video! 500mm does seem excessive for everything except birds. For the same weight, I’d probably prefer to lug around a faster 300 or 400mm.
For the F1 shots - why don’t you just manual focus on the section of track you want for your particular composition? I think that would give more consistent results than expecting the Servo mode to catch it (especially with a lateral motion - it does better with oncoming subjects IMHO).
Just my 2c. Thanks for all the great content as always!
You're spot on. Manually focusing on the ground is the best way to do it. Much higher ratio of shots in focus.
@@FlyingLapMedia Thanks! Would be so cool to get into an F1 race one day
@@FallLineJP tough nut to crack F1 they’re very choosy who they give credentials to - but if you have any experience with racing and want a media pass to shoot GT cars, let me know. 🏁
@@FlyingLapMedia Wow that would be awesome! Let me DM you on IG unless you have another preferred contact method? Thanks in advance!!
7:30 You need to be further away from the road and zoom more, so then you need less rotation at the moment of shooting, and "sniping" the subject.
You are such an inspiración man... Thanks for it, especially for showing the "failing" part! Saludos!
🎁☝Thank you for always watching and commenting. You have been selected in my draw.. 🎊 text me on telegram to claim your prize
Appreciates it. U give a hard efforts to make this. Salute!
This was really great man, I rented the 100-500mm a few months ago and liked it for capturing birds and various desert wildlife. Then I saw the 100-400mm and as you mentioned it is far cheaper, well I got that lens now and I tell you it takes phenomenal shots being paired with my R5 so I'm happy with the $600 lens. The tips for shooting movement I think will help me a lot thanks for those!
more vids like this please!! Love being able to see the ENTIRE process! Thanks pete
Awesome video. i also love when PM uses an audio track that I already have used in a video. Validation received.
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really enjoyed this video, was interesting to see and hear your workflow and the decisions you were making on the fly
Hey Pete, are you using the right stabilisation mode on the lens? My eyes might be letting me down, but it looks like you have the lens set to 1, which I think is good for stationary objects. 2 is good for panning and might help with those shots?
Just bought 150-600mm sigma. It’s a beast. I get a arm workout using it.
I have been out of Photography for a while, as my son gains interest I've been getting back into it. I remember 20+ years ago photographing in manual for the point that I wanted in the pan to be in focus, I nailed the shot more often than not with film cameras. Auto Focus is great, but if your in a fixed position, trying to get the shot with the particular background you want, Manual is still useful. The hardest part then was timing the shutter and making sure I'm cropped where I need to be. Zooming out a little in camera give the ability to punch in a little in post. Shutter speed at 1/100th of second, I'd argue that a lot of your 'not sharp' shots may have been motion blur rather than the systems fault. When your shooting pans, tuck that elbow in and and keep the camera up to your eye and you'll be far more stable and limit that motion blur to your pan rather than adding up and down blur.
Did you meet Jamey Price at all? He specialises in motorsport photography. He suggests to use manual focus over auto focus. I guess everyone uses what they are comfortable with. I want to try this for myself as it looks fun.
literally was thinking about getting these lenses, then you posted this; perfect timing.
Thanks for such an informative video! Really appreciate the test video of the lens and the real process of choosing the photos and critiques. Great job 👍
Wouah, that F1 pic is amazing and impressive, knowing that getting your moving subject with blur background is hard af, I use to shoot horse races.
Cool stuff. Very useful rundown.
An important thing to mention, is if you want a fast, 400mm+ lens, you'll need to spend $10,000+ for the primes. $3000 is actually decent compromise if you're looking for weather sealing and stabilization!
Love that 2 tone explorer
Peter, love from Portugal 🇵🇹
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 great job! Photos are sick
Great video! I like how it showed lenses at different price points. Really loved seeing how many shots didn’t make the cut!
I always run a ND filter for photographing racing events. So you don’t have to keep your aperture at f18. I like to keep it around f10 1/100 sec and adjust iso for exposure.
That’s a beast of a setup! I’m still using my 5D IVs and might go mirrorless after I kill all my bodies 😂 400k shutter count and still no issues!
Also the 3 useable photos and 100 shots taken is so accurate! I’ll shoot 10,000 photos during a weekend event and have 200-300 useable photos! It’s like fishing. Just gotta keep throwing the hook and eventually you’ll get the bite!
@@LiveToLoop yep another digital newbie that never grew up when you had to know how to use a camera. Tell you what slick shoot 10,000 negatives/slides and only keep 200, LOL you will be broke in a day. Maybe learning how to photograph and use a camera would do you a lot of good! Hell shoot in 8K that is 32 megapixel shots and you can waste tons of frames.
I'm glad "2 min Tuesday" is back to its normal length :)
Your best shot was of the best pilot Checo Perez :)
What you needed to do here. Is anticipate and make distance with the zoom.
-Zoom out to 500mm as the bike is far
- pick a spot to focus on before the bike gets there
-then shoot as the bike gets to that point..
Obviously more on the oncoming side of the rider..
- get familiar with the zoom direction on the lens as to be able to zoom out as the bike gets closer.
Absolutely love you showed the imperfections. I follow you because I'm inspired by your content, but I other the photographer videographer TH-camrs and they constantly show their awesome photos making always thinking why aren't my photos fire like that. I do everything I believe they do and they don't look like, or only 1 out of 100 I would show someone. Saying that not every shot is a banger and then also showing a photo that is blurry and you would still use it puts me back in reality that we are all human and I am not gonna get it right every time stop stressing so hard. DONE IS BETTER THAN PERFECT.
Awesome to hear! Yes! Camera rolls and Lightroom film strips aren’t always all glamour! Sometimes it’s just finding the gem. Sometimes you get lucky. Sometimes everything sucks! But all of it is a learning experience and the hope is you are always improving! Good luck!
Can’t even imagine how this will look like on my new R7. Ok, not into bird fotography but thats a huge lens. The RF100mm Macro on the other had, well thats interesting. Nice to see rocking a two tone D. You have got taste, not just in case of rings and cameras… Cheers Pete