Hate those screws. First time I ran into that was about 15 years ago, and a little impact action absolutely helps get them out. It's debatable if those screws are even needed as long as the rotor centers on the hub correctly.
@@TheAlwaysImprovingGarage I think some brands use them to also center the rotor. Some rotors have too much slop and don't center correctly because the hole for the lug bolts are too sloppy.
Those screws are JIS not Phillips. Use a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bit or the next tool you will be using is a drill to drill it out. Do not replace them, they are only needed to hold the rotor on when the car is being manufactured until wheels are installed. After that, lug nuts secure the wheels and rotors. If you strip the heads using a Phillips driver or bit, get ready for a hefty charge for a shop to do it. The correct tool is a VESSEL IMPACTA 980 impact screwdriver. It is a JIS impact screwdriver you hit with a hammer and it rotates the screw automatically. First, install a few lug nuts and tighten them down hard to relieve the pressure on the screws in the rotor. That is important. Spraying a penetrating oil on them will make the screwdriver slip out of the screw head. But if you already did that, a little heat on the screw will burn the oil away. For really old tough ones that won't budge, a dab of E-Z Grip friction drops will provide traction for the impact screwdriver. Valve Grinding Compound will do in a pinch. The last resort is a Die Grinder with a carbide burr to grind the head of the screw away so the rotor can be removed. Avoid this if you never used a Die Grinder and carbide burrs. It is by far the fastest way to remove a rotor if those screws are severely damaged though, using a Die Grinder and the the correct carbide burr. Drilling the heads off those screws with a regular drill takes forever even with cobalt drill bits and time is money.
JIS never hurts, but more for when you are able to remove something by hand without hitting it in with a hammer/air hammer. the #3 bit shown has actually worked fine, for me
Yes we have used a #3 Phillips in the shop with some success, but due to the design compared to an actual JIS they sometimes cam out. I will attempt using a Phillips because I don't have a JIS assortment on my service cart. If it don't work, I must take the time to go to the toolbox in my bay to get the Vessel. Sometimes we will do a simple brake and rotor job outside on a lift behind the shop. We do not use air hammers for those, they only get you in trouble. You are correct about that. Thanks for the reply and keep wrenching and posting.
Hate those screws. First time I ran into that was about 15 years ago, and a little impact action absolutely helps get them out.
It's debatable if those screws are even needed as long as the rotor centers on the hub correctly.
correct, from what I've heard they are just for "Assembly" . that doesn't explain why some have 2 of them though. Thanks for watching.
@@TheAlwaysImprovingGarage I think some brands use them to also center the rotor. Some rotors have too much slop and don't center correctly because the hole for the lug bolts are too sloppy.
Hi how irs called the first tool?
Do you know if i can buy this tool on AliExpress or eBay?
Thank you.
Hi, yes sometimes they are called "impact screwdriver" or "manual impact driver" I'm sure you will be able to find it. Thanks for watching
Those screws are JIS not Phillips. Use a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bit or the next tool you will be using is a drill to drill it out. Do not replace them, they are only needed to hold the rotor on when the car is being manufactured until wheels are installed. After that, lug nuts secure the wheels and rotors. If you strip the heads using a Phillips driver or bit, get ready for a hefty charge for a shop to do it.
The correct tool is a VESSEL IMPACTA 980 impact screwdriver. It is a JIS impact screwdriver you hit with a hammer and it rotates the screw automatically. First, install a few lug nuts and tighten them down hard to relieve the pressure on the screws in the rotor. That is important. Spraying a penetrating oil on them will make the screwdriver slip out of the screw head. But if you already did that, a little heat on the screw will burn the oil away. For really old tough ones that won't budge, a dab of E-Z Grip friction drops will provide traction for the impact screwdriver. Valve Grinding Compound will do in a pinch. The last resort is a Die Grinder with a carbide burr to grind the head of the screw away so the rotor can be removed. Avoid this if you never used a Die Grinder and carbide burrs. It is by far the fastest way to remove a rotor if those screws are severely damaged though, using a Die Grinder and the the correct carbide burr. Drilling the heads off those screws with a regular drill takes forever even with cobalt drill bits and time is money.
JIS never hurts, but more for when you are able to remove something by hand without hitting it in with a hammer/air hammer. the #3 bit shown has actually worked fine, for me
Yes we have used a #3 Phillips in the shop with some success, but due to the design compared to an actual JIS they sometimes cam out. I will attempt using a Phillips because I don't have a JIS assortment on my service cart. If it don't work, I must take the time to go to the toolbox in my bay to get the Vessel. Sometimes we will do a simple brake and rotor job outside on a lift behind the shop. We do not use air hammers for those, they only get you in trouble. You are correct about that. Thanks for the reply and keep wrenching and posting.
@@Ampsbuddy I will add a caption in the video regarding JIS. Thanks for watching