In the comments, someone made a good point. If the scissor jack doesn’t turn smoothly, the impact wrench can force the jack to turn and end up stripping the threads and permanently damage the jack. Which means, keep the thread of the jack well greased and clean, free of any particles that could interfere with the spinning function of the jack, inspect it for any debris, clean it if necessary with a paper towel, grease it up or if no grease is available, use the oil dip stick to put some oil on the thread, then test run the jack with the impact wrench all the way up and down, making sure it is clean, smooth and greased up before placing it under the car, hope that helps.
Oh wow that’s a pretty neat little tool. Would’ve been cool if I knew about it a day ago lol. I just cut the eyelet stub off my scissor jack with an angle grinder and welded a lug nut onto the end of the scissor jack. Works the same way!
thats not a problem. the problem is when the extremely high torque impacting action breaks the non-impact rated thread, and the car drops, or worse, it fractures it, and the car drops while yr head is under it. use a drill with smooth torque, not an impact tool. its like he is putting a spanner on the jack, then hitting it repeatedly with a sledge hammer
Well, you must always put a block or a brick in front of the tires before operating a scissor jack. Next always, I mean always put your hand break after you park before lifting. These are the basics. Lastly, a scissor jack must be used for a bare minimum height so the tire can barely and quickly be released and the spare can be reinserted and NOT to hoist the car so you can work underneath. Common sense plays a great role!!!
Dont use an impact wrench to lift a cantilever jack,if the wrench starts to impact the shock loading could shear the jack shaft.Use a high power cordless drill in low gear.
To all people out there, at home a bottle or floor jack wins every time. If going on a trip or more than 10 miles out of town, pack a small floor jack and 2 x plastic trailer wedges. They are very affordable. As for the impact drivers, I will stick to the lug nuts and nothing else. Doesn't hurt to carry the scissor jack fully equipped with the thread lightly greased and all other moving parts lubricated. Worst case scenario you can still use it the intended manufacturer's way. As for the uninitiated, use the impact driver to loosen the nuts and nip them slightly when tightening. Release the jack until the Tyre touches the tar, then tighten with a lever or Tyre iron only.
My son just last week had one of those "half" scissor jack fail and get his hand pin btween the car and jack. He was there for about 15 minutes untill someone had broke down and stop right behind him. I bought him a quality jack today. Now hes got to get a cable in his hand.
The advantage on the handle on the scissor jack is approximately 16:1. A bottle jack may be a better option. In an emergency, who can say what is more space efficient to carry...jack stands, a short wood log, etc?
This is really helpful only for changing tires but I would not dare to use these scissors to work underneath. This would be an addition for support and lift together with 4 jack stands and a spare tire if you want to work under your car. Thanks again..
Same. My dad always taught me to NEVER trust the jack, no matter why kind of jack. If its not on jack stands, chocked, and e-braked, i dont get under it.
Your right they are dangerous i had one start to fold up slowly while i was changing a starter on my fire bird about 27 years ago i felt the car pressing down on me and forced my way out no sooner than i got out from under the car it folded all the way over bent in half after that i never used one again now i carry a hydraulic floor jack and safty stand in my car i was young and learned the hard way
i used an impact on a scissor, but after 8 years of occasional use, the jack failed (safely), the thread will strip, better off with using an electric drill or electric ratchet (non-impact setting). this is s good idea, even using a large manual ratchet works better than the using the rod they give you.
I use Dodge scissor jacks because they have a 19 (or 21)mm hex on them. A WORD OF WARNING. Using an impact on these jacks severely shortens their lives. I have had jacks fail and drop the car. The "nut" on back of the jack strips and the screw passes right through.
I have to back up MrZX's advice here. I have used several scissor jacks with impacts as well. It does tend to eventually tear up the screw mechanism. I haven't had a jack fail while it was jacked up, but I could easily see this happening. I think the next thing to try would be a heavy duty corded drill instead. Also there are a few new scissor jacks on Amazon with the nut already on it.
I scrounge (but those interested could buy from salvage yards etc) pantograph (incorrectly called "scissor") jacks for pickup trucks which have a built-on hex head I use with my impacts or manually with a socket on a long extenstion (always available since I carry tools in my trucks). Some have handles which I slice off with a zip disk so they don't interfere with jacking. They're MUCH better than the smaller, weaker car jacks in most cases. I use them (sometimes with a section of angle or channel welded horiz ontallyto the top) to lift motorcycles, pickup trucks etc. They're extremely handy around the shop and perfect to take on salvage yard runs with my cordless impact. I've done this for ~15 years since I started collecting free jacks at the salvage yard where I workd. I have at least ten. Chevrolet Silverados and similar are among the best. In combination with old rims (far safer than jack stands which I do not use) and wooden blocks I use them instead of a heavy floor jack (which I also own and haven't used in years) for everything one normally does with hydraulics. They're fast, safe and efficient.
eBay has the jack for $40, the adapter $12 from China, but I want to convert mine with Home Depot or hardware store material to save even more. Any ideas?
I’ve done this with several scissor jacks, it is best the have the threaded rod well lubricated. If not the threads can strip, and some scissor jacks say rite on them do not use with impact guns This is because they will strip the threads
My kobalt mid torque impact wrench destroyed my brand new scissor jack after the second time using it. It seized the scissor jack halfway down. Had to use a hydraulic jack to lift the car and get the damaged scissor jack out. Try using another drill of equal power as long as it's not an impact wrench.
Princess Auto carried this 5 years ago when I bought mine. At that time the price was $4.99 They discontinue selling them later on. This does not work well with a drill since there is not enough torque. An impact driver does work well. Since I don't have a cordless impact driver it won't be useful on the road.
I have to ask; do you expect that many will really have power tools "at the side of the road"? Also, the bolt on the end of that Saturn jack is not a socket, it's a bolt.
I have an impact with lug but sockets in my car 24/7. I don’t wanna be on the side of the road any longer than I need to. Plus I have a bad back. I can do a 3min tire change.
@@imstricken06 Cool. Be careful out there when you do a tire change with a scissors jack; they have been known to fail by tipping over & such. I found that using a 24mm socket over the end of my scissors jack fits perfectly but I think the original crank is faster (by hand).
Scissor jacks dangerous? That could be said about any jack and careless person combination. Those of us that started with bumper jacks know the risk. I started with bumper jack and rocks for wheel chocks then moved to bricks and finally built a set wooden chocks. Buy a set of plastic ones and learn how to lift a car safely by practicing changing a tire in your driveway. Most people who in salt country have no idea how to get the corroded rim to break free.
agreed. i use a heavy duty 2.5 ton scissor jack over a hydraulic for car repair, not just changing a flat tire. even if i used a hydraulic jack i would still always use jack stands. i only use the scissor jack or whatever jack to lift the car.
Not true. The same could be said about torque, it could pull the jack. An impact wrench don’t do heavy hits, it does a lot of small hits that equal to vibration that turns the nut. It doesn’t hit like a sled hammer that you imagine.
Thanks for the video. it was good to see it in action. I am curious why so many TH-cam videos mention inexpensive impact drivers like you said. I have not seen a decent driver for $130, but you aren't the only one I've heard say that. The dewalt and Milwaukee are more like $250 to 300. Did the price skyrocket recently?
You can purchase the top of the line $180msrp Craftsman 19.2V 1/2" impact wrench w/ 4ah XCP Li-ion battery for as low as $130-135 [stack discounts for $95-100 total, $13.75 tool only or $18.75 tool + $20 items, if ebay battery&charger] when it's on sale at sears.com/in-store. Stacking when a $130 sale price with the the other discounts discussed later, [gift card/cashback/coupons/etc], for example, will make it $95 ($180 msrp...but, it's essentially always on sale, usually at a higher sale price. ie. Right now it's $150) You can purchase their lower models for as low at $90 on sale (before stacking other discounts, but has significantly less torque, and has a much weaker battery. (You can even ebay the 4ah battery from the $180msrp model, to drop your cost to $130 low sale price- 15% GC - 8% cashback - $5 coupon [or $20 coupon if purchase an extra $20 items] - $58.83 (ebay battery for $60 + $8 S&H [use usps flat rate envelope for $6.25] - $9.17 [ebay/paypal fees]) =$36.27 total or $41.27 for the tool only & $20 worth of items. Or $95- $78 (ebay $90 battery + charger..although one sold for $99.56 last week = $87.50 after fees + $6.25 shipping.. = $13.75 total for tool, or $18.75 including $20 in items...these prices as $99.56 battery/charger ebay selling ) = or ebay $90 battery/charger for a $17 total or $22 including $20 worth of extra items Don't forget to use a cashback site, to get upwards of 8% cashback right now, but I honestly never heard of the higher percentage companies. So, make sure to visit one of the sites which compares the cashback sites, such as Cashbackholic.com , etc [you can google cashback compare, to get a longer list of comparison sites] Plus, from time to time, you can purchase sears gift cards for a significant discount [ie. as of right now, 6/2/17, ON EBAY, YOU CAN PURCHASE $100 SEARS.COM gift cards for $85 each, SO PURCHASE 2 x $100 GC's = $170, unless you ,,o to purchase only wone ] You can either wait for 15% off, once these sell out, or visit a gift card comparison site, such as giftcardgranny.com, etc By stacking both discounts, you can get it for $130 - 8% ($10.40) - 15% ($19.50) = $100.10 But...DO NOT FORGET TO USE COUPONS! They always have a minimum of a $5 off $50 coupon, so check retailmenot.com for coupons, ALWAYS! Right now you can use a $20 off $150 coupon, to get $20 worth of items for free (ie. 9700077204246011 till 6/10/17) Or, if desperate for it right now, use that coupon to make it $150 - $20 coupon = $130 - 15% GC discount($19.50) - 8% cashback ($10.40) = $100.10 then . www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-c3-189-8221-heavy-duty-impact-wrench-kit-powered-by-4ah-xcp76
I used am impact wrench for a while, and one day the jack crashed instantly. The end nut stripped without any warning. Lucky that my tire was still on. What if just when I took off the tire. Very scary! I would never use an impact wrench for a jack again. Be gentle with a scissor jack.
How often do you have a flat? Once in a great while, so I wouldn't worry about stripping the threads. I'll get me this adapter though. Just use an impact on a slow setting . It shouldn't be a problem. I also use an impact to takeoff my Lugnuts so it's dual purpose. All you guys out there who are saying it's silly to put it in your trunk because you have no room for it with all the other junk you're probably Hauling around? That's a good as place as any to keep it.
That's exactly what I think, too. I wouldn't want to carry both a rotary drill and an impact wrench in my car. I'd prefer to just keep the impact wrench, since it's useful for tire lug nuts. Are there any hybrid combo tools that can have both features in 1, with a mode for rotary drill and another mode for impact wrench? I've heard there are hybrid combo tools which have a rotary drill mode and an impact driver mode, but since an impact driver has lower torque than an impact wrench, I'd worry that the impact driver mode wouldn't be enough to handle lug nuts.
I do but I have the Makita XWT08Z impact wrench. I also have full size spare tire, lantern w/ emergency blinker, 6 fix-a-flat cans, first aid kit, 14-piece impact socket set, torque wrench, working gloves, and a tire inflator. If I get a flat, I can back on the road in 15 minutes with a full size tire replacement.
Slow and steady wins the race because when it slips off and got through the foot well then you have a problem why can't you just spend 30 seconds more by hand because when you on the side of the road you don't care if it's fast as long as your going again and not had to have someone come out then I'm happy I use bottle jacks but if it gets you out the shit then who cares
I don't recommend doing this .. I tell you for experience.. I done this to two different scissors Jack's and they both have striped. The firsts one the long screw striped and got locked.the second one the ball where the screw goes in striped. No longer went up.. so my conclusion is you can't screw them to fast or they mess up
wait, you could just put on a regular and appropriate sized socket over the same area and accomplish the something. you don't need to purchase anything except use a socket that's already at home that fits over the turning mechanism.
I have tried that method with a socket and you're right. It eventually slips. I usually use a cheap socket that I don't care about to get it approx. half way up and I have to stop and use the hand crank to finish it. Also my jack is tapered and not flat so I have to really push hard on it to get it hold.
Ray Smith Hey guys sorry for the delay. Here is my assessment: IT works PERFECTLY for me. I didnt need to purcase any additional tools or equipment. I have the same exact jack and I used a standard 6 point 15/16 SAE socket and it easily cranked up my friend's vehicle like churned butter. At first I thought it'd slip but I didn't. And I tried several times. This leads me to believe that you want to avoid using a 12 point socket at all costs because that is what will cause the slippage and worse, grind out the metal surface with every turn. Additionally, you must make sure that you are on the lowest torque setting as to not burnout your internals or accidentally round out the jack and socket being used. I also suspect that if using a much lower quality 15/16 SAE socket made of say steal, you know, the ones that are usually sold in dollar stores or something, well the inside may have already gotten rounded out enough to cause the slippages you've encountered. There is a reason why tradesmen who earn their living using tools avoid those kinds of sockets at all costs. It may be advisable to get a higher quality Chrome Vanadium metal socket instead which are know to stand up to mechanics standards. With that said, I watched videos of other folks doing this on their standard jack (links provided on my earlier comment) and just had to try it myself. Mind blown away. After using the socket technique on my jack to lift up both wheels, I ended up completing much needed front end suspension work that I have been delaying simply because I didn't have one of those heavy duty hand cranking jacks. Hope this helps you guys out.
Again, in my case, a good quality 15/16 SAE socket worked out perfectly for me. Obviously if you have a slightly different size or shape jack, go with a socket that fits snug over the lever thingy and make sure to keep your tool on lowest torque setting. Slow and consistent is always better than impatience since it'll potentially lead to rounded out socket.
There's probably a few reasons: 1. They are cheap to make -- reduces cost to make vehicle and allows manufacturer to sell for lower price or increase their profit. 2. They are lightweight -- manufacturers try to save every pound they can to improve fuel economy. 3. They are dependable -- after sitting in your trunk completely neglected for 20 years, they'll still probably work. 4. They are compact -- many cars these days are so low to the ground that it would not be possible to position any other sort of jack under the car at the proper jack points (pinch welds). Sure, there are some low profile floor jacks that are available, but those are for shop use. Most people with cars that are that low to the ground are not going to routinely carry a low profile floor jack with them in the back of their car. There are some mechanical screw type bottle jacks that were supplied with some vehicles over the years. I have one from a vehicle that used to own. This type of jack is also too high for use with many of the cars these days that have minimum ground clearance. Being purely mechanical, they will last a long time with no maintenance also. These days I only use this jack for when I'm needing to replace a garbage disposal under a sink. It's light and compact and can hold the unit while I'm finishing the replacement -- basically a second set of hands in a crowded space. Here's an example of that sort of jack: encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRc-YkdLHctt0grdQcTAKP532xUnAOVAiDi-_9lLrQwDrtAXWg7 Hydraulic jacks (even small bottle jacks) weigh more and since they have hydraulic fluid in them and various seals, it is not uncommon to see them leak hydraulic fluid after a long period of time. Assuming that you are storing the scissor jack in a way that would promote rust (e.g. wet and salty), then they are going to still be in workable condition in 20 years.
Never seen a lockwasher go on in that order before. Worked on people mover trains for 40 yrs and that's a first. I think the instructions are wrong or you are.
If you buy this adapter you're probably going to have access to an impact gun in your car. That's why you would buy it ... If you want to jack the car up fast and easy you will carry the impact wrench
Your reasoning to have this adapter is flawed. 1. its not often a car owner carries an impact wrench with him/her (needless to say about owning one) 2. timing is everything, for another vehicle to smack into a road-side stranded vehicle, all it takes is about a couple of seconds, use an impact wrench or not if its his/her time, that would be sadly it. 3. Also need a socket ... 4. the adapter, would be much more usable if it comes with an universal joint/U-joint... otherwise, maintaining a few pounds of impact wrench in-line with the jack axis can be a pain as well as causing unnecessary wear to the connections (not different from using the OEM hook to crank the jack up/down). Good thinking, but, not thorough engineering/design.
MY reasoning is flawed? According to who- you? LoL. I always have an impact with me and a couple deep sockets that also fit lugnuts not just this socket. And you’re arguing how it takes a few seconds to get hit by a car - and I was arguing for how spending more time than needed on the wise of the road increases the LIKELIHOOD of getting hit. That’s two diff arguments. 🤦🏻♂️
WTF...terrible idea, for one, I don't store two ratchets, two socket sets, and an impact driver in my car....why would I?. The jack and handle is just for emergencies.
What do you drive a gokart? How small is your trunk?? This impact then removes lugnuts quickly and installs them too. I can change a flat tire in about 2-3 minutes from trunk open to trunk closed. Every minute on the side of a highway is an extremely dangerous place to be.
so so dumb ... you literally coulda lifed the car normally in the time taken to ratchet on the adapter , with 2 ratchets , besides which , the impact wrench will WRECK that thread in no time ......
wrong tool for the job. use a drill ffs, not an impact tool. yr gonna drop that shit on your head by micro-fracturing the thread with all those high torque impact strikes
@@imstricken06 get a better drill. my drill has plenty of power to lift an SUV on a scissor jack, and it wont cause the fucking jack to break and kill whoever is under the car. jacks are NOT impact rated. they are mild steel.
In the comments, someone made a good point. If the scissor jack doesn’t turn smoothly, the impact wrench can force the jack to turn and end up stripping the threads and permanently damage the jack. Which means, keep the thread of the jack well greased and clean, free of any particles that could interfere with the spinning function of the jack, inspect it for any debris, clean it if necessary with a paper towel, grease it up or if no grease is available, use the oil dip stick to put some oil on the thread, then test run the jack with the impact wrench all the way up and down, making sure it is clean, smooth and greased up before placing it under the car, hope that helps.
Oh wow that’s a pretty neat little tool. Would’ve been cool if I knew about it a day ago lol. I just cut the eyelet stub off my scissor jack with an angle grinder and welded a lug nut onto the end of the scissor jack. Works the same way!
Have watched a dozen or so videos on how to make the adapter. Thank you for that.
The only problem is, we don't carry impact power tool with us in the car all time. Great for home use where the impact wrench is usually stored.
dcpc08161992 can still use a ratchet.
there are 12 volt ones availabe
Keep an impact in your vehicle then
Yeah buy a cheap ratchet or drill from like harbor freight
thats not a problem.
the problem is when the extremely high torque impacting action breaks the non-impact rated thread, and the car drops, or worse, it fractures it, and the car drops while yr head is under it.
use a drill with smooth torque, not an impact tool.
its like he is putting a spanner on the jack, then hitting it repeatedly with a sledge hammer
Well, you must always put a block or a brick in front of the tires before operating a scissor jack. Next always, I mean always put your hand break after you park before lifting. These are the basics. Lastly, a scissor jack must be used for a bare minimum height so the tire can barely and quickly be released and the spare can be reinserted and NOT to hoist the car so you can work underneath. Common sense plays a great role!!!
Dont use an impact wrench to lift a cantilever jack,if the wrench starts to impact the shock loading could shear the jack shaft.Use a high power cordless drill in low gear.
I find that extremely unlikely
@@MarcGyverIt I agree
I've done it and it did indeed destroy the jack. To the doubters you don't know.
@@fukofffukwits man seems like you didn’t know what you were doing then lmao
@@Phuong_Nguyen_ probably had it at high rpm.
To all people out there, at home a bottle or floor jack wins every time. If going on a trip or more than 10 miles out of town, pack a small floor jack and 2 x plastic trailer wedges. They are very affordable. As for the impact drivers, I will stick to the lug nuts and nothing else. Doesn't hurt to carry the scissor jack fully equipped with the thread lightly greased and all other moving parts lubricated. Worst case scenario you can still use it the intended manufacturer's way. As for the uninitiated, use the impact driver to loosen the nuts and nip them slightly when tightening. Release the jack until the Tyre touches the tar, then tighten with a lever or Tyre iron only.
I was going to get an electric scissor jack until I saw your video. I immediately ordered it. Thanks!
I need to check the spare tire under my vehicle which is probably flat? Haven't checked in years ....Thanks for Reminding me!
My son just last week had one of those "half" scissor jack fail and get his hand pin btween the car and jack. He was there for about 15 minutes untill someone had broke down and stop right behind him. I bought him a quality jack today. Now hes got to get a cable in his hand.
What is the mm of the long sleeve corresponding to the adapter, thank you!!
I had a flat tire once...this is why I carry an impact and have the adapter. Changed the wheel in 3 mins :)
Oh come on... At LEAST 5 minutes. 🙄
@@nonamenoname4641 4 minutes
does it work with an impact driver? Mine is a bit weaker than that impact wrench you have...
Of course but faster the more fun it gets
The advantage on the handle on the scissor jack is approximately 16:1. A bottle jack may be a better option. In an emergency, who can say what is more space efficient to carry...jack stands, a short wood log, etc?
This is really helpful only for changing tires but I would not dare to use these scissors to work underneath. This would be an addition for support and lift together with 4 jack stands and a spare tire if you want to work under your car. Thanks again..
Same. My dad always taught me to NEVER trust the jack, no matter why kind of jack. If its not on jack stands, chocked, and e-braked, i dont get under it.
0:02 what kind of glock shoots rifle bullets?
Mazda jacks also have the hex bolt at the end and pinch welds - you can find them in junked cars. All the best!
Good idea. How do you keep the cordless impact gun charged in your trunk? Did you hook gun charger to the 12V system in your car?
any good lithium battery last charged for months
I don't charge the battery in my car. I check the battery once a month including the second backup battery.
i just you my drill and a socket that fits right on the jack without that adapter seems to work fine, maybe need the adapter if its hammering on it.
Your right they are dangerous i had one start to fold up slowly while i was changing a starter on my fire bird about 27 years ago i felt the car pressing down on me and forced my way out no sooner than i got out from under the car it folded all the way over bent in half after that i never used one again now i carry a hydraulic floor jack and safty stand in my car i was young and learned the hard way
GRADY JONES Thats why you always use stands. If you dont, you are risking yourself and playing with your life
Thanks for mentioning the saturn vue. Will look for it in the junk yard.
i used an impact on a scissor, but after 8 years of occasional use, the jack failed (safely), the thread will strip, better off with using an electric drill or electric ratchet (non-impact setting). this is s good idea, even using a large manual ratchet works better than the using the rod they give you.
The best way of making such adapter I have seen.
I use Dodge scissor jacks because they have a 19 (or 21)mm hex on them. A WORD OF WARNING. Using an impact on these jacks severely shortens their lives. I have had jacks fail and drop the car. The "nut" on back of the jack strips and the screw passes right through.
I have to back up MrZX's advice here. I have used several scissor jacks with impacts as well. It does tend to eventually tear up the screw mechanism. I haven't had a jack fail while it was jacked up, but I could easily see this happening. I think the next thing to try would be a heavy duty corded drill instead. Also there are a few new scissor jacks on Amazon with the nut already on it.
what about just using a regular drill?
Not enough torque to raise most cars.
can you estimate what would be the minimum necessary torque rating on a drill to raise a car with a scissor jack?
You could figure that out by knowing the weight of thing you are lifting, and the mechanical advantage ratio of the jack you are using.
Or, you can use a 6 pt hex socket to slot in the scissors jack. Some grinding work may required.
I scrounge (but those interested could buy from salvage yards etc) pantograph (incorrectly called "scissor") jacks for pickup trucks which have a built-on hex head I use with my impacts or manually with a socket on a long extenstion (always available since I carry tools in my trucks). Some have handles which I slice off with a zip disk so they don't interfere with jacking. They're MUCH better than the smaller, weaker car jacks in most cases. I use them (sometimes with a section of angle or channel welded horiz ontallyto the top) to lift motorcycles, pickup trucks etc. They're extremely handy around the shop and perfect to take on salvage yard runs with my cordless impact. I've done this for ~15 years since I started collecting free jacks at the salvage yard where I workd. I have at least ten. Chevrolet Silverados and similar are among the best. In combination with old rims (far safer than jack stands which I do not use) and wooden blocks I use them instead of a heavy floor jack (which I also own and haven't used in years) for everything one normally does with hydraulics. They're fast, safe and efficient.
a scissor lift has a scissor action, a pantograph (the thing on the roof of trams and electric trains) do not. they have a cantilever action.
After I used a 1/2 inch impact. It stripped the threads on my scissor jack.
eBay has the jack for $40, the adapter $12 from China, but I want to convert mine with Home Depot or hardware store material to save even more. Any ideas?
I’ve done this with several scissor jacks, it is best the have the threaded rod well lubricated.
If not the threads can strip, and some scissor jacks say rite on them do not use with impact guns
This is because they will strip the threads
The spring washer should be after the flat washer. Both washers on either side of the jack should be flat.
My kobalt mid torque impact wrench destroyed my brand new scissor jack after the second time using it. It seized the scissor jack halfway down. Had to use a hydraulic jack to lift the car and get the damaged scissor jack out. Try using another drill of equal power as long as it's not an impact wrench.
Excellent tutorial, and it truly works for me!
I weld, so I made one just like this!! But I used a cotter pin instead of the bolt👌
where do you get deep sockets in 13/16 and 7/8 sizes for a 3/8 drive impact? I had to buy adapter 3/8s to 1/2.
Michael -Spark plug sockets are available in 5/8 to 13/16 in 3/8 drive, and most any auto parts store will have a deep well 7/8 in 3/8 drive.
How much torque is needed to do this?
what car(model) has the scissors jack that does not take adapter?
so if instead of buying those adapters and investing on a impact gun, why not buy a different jack?
Floor jack would eliminate all this bumblefuckery
Where do I buy this adapter from - how much torque does your drill have?
Amazon
If you went a little bit further, the car will make the scissor jack tip (1:44). It happened to my Fusion.
Floor jack saves the day
Princess Auto carried this 5 years ago when I bought mine. At that time the price was $4.99 They discontinue selling them later on. This does not work well with a drill since there is not enough torque. An impact driver does work well. Since I don't have a cordless impact driver it won't be useful on the road.
I have to ask; do you expect that many will really have power tools "at the side of the road"?
Also, the bolt on the end of that Saturn jack is not a socket, it's a bolt.
I have an impact with lug but sockets in my car 24/7. I don’t wanna be on the side of the road any longer than I need to. Plus I have a bad back. I can do a 3min tire change.
@@imstricken06 Cool. Be careful out there when you do a tire change with a scissors jack; they have been known to fail by tipping over & such.
I found that using a 24mm socket over the end of my scissors jack fits perfectly but I think the original crank is faster (by hand).
Scissor jacks dangerous? That could be said about any jack and careless person combination. Those of us that started with bumper jacks know the risk. I started with bumper jack and rocks for wheel chocks then moved to bricks and finally built a set wooden chocks. Buy a set of plastic ones and learn how to lift a car safely by practicing changing a tire in your driveway. Most people who in salt country have no idea how to get the corroded rim to break free.
agreed. i use a heavy duty 2.5 ton scissor jack over a hydraulic for car repair, not just changing a flat tire. even if i used a hydraulic jack i would still always use jack stands.
i only use the scissor jack or whatever jack to lift the car.
I’ve done this with a regular drill lol no need for an impact
You removed lugnuts with a drill?? 🤔
Loosen first spin off with drill spin on with drill tighten with lug wrench
02-06 Nissan Altima is ready for a 21mm socket on your impact or socket wrench
An impact wrench is like a hammer (hence 'impact') and is more likely to make jack tip over.
Not true. The same could be said about torque, it could pull the jack. An impact wrench don’t do heavy hits, it does a lot of small hits that equal to vibration that turns the nut. It doesn’t hit like a sled hammer that you imagine.
Thanks for the video. it was good to see it in action. I am curious why so many TH-cam videos mention inexpensive impact drivers like you said. I have not seen a decent driver for $130, but you aren't the only one I've heard say that. The dewalt and Milwaukee are more like $250 to 300. Did the price skyrocket recently?
You can purchase the top of the line $180msrp Craftsman 19.2V 1/2" impact wrench w/ 4ah XCP Li-ion battery for as low as $130-135 [stack discounts for $95-100 total, $13.75 tool only or $18.75 tool + $20 items, if ebay battery&charger] when it's on sale at sears.com/in-store. Stacking when a $130 sale price with the the other discounts discussed later, [gift card/cashback/coupons/etc], for example, will make it $95
($180 msrp...but, it's essentially always on sale, usually at a higher sale price. ie. Right now it's $150)
You can purchase their lower models for as low at $90 on sale (before stacking other discounts, but has significantly less torque, and has a much weaker battery. (You can even ebay the 4ah battery from the $180msrp model, to drop your cost to $130 low sale price- 15% GC - 8% cashback - $5 coupon [or $20 coupon if purchase an extra $20 items] - $58.83 (ebay battery for $60 + $8 S&H [use usps flat rate envelope for $6.25] - $9.17 [ebay/paypal fees]) =$36.27 total or $41.27 for the tool only & $20 worth of items. Or $95- $78 (ebay $90 battery + charger..although one sold for $99.56 last week = $87.50 after fees + $6.25 shipping.. = $13.75 total for tool, or $18.75 including $20 in items...these prices as $99.56 battery/charger ebay selling ) = or ebay $90 battery/charger for a $17 total or $22 including $20 worth of extra items
Don't forget to use a cashback site, to get upwards of 8% cashback right now, but I honestly never heard of the higher percentage companies. So, make sure to visit one of the sites which compares the cashback sites, such as Cashbackholic.com , etc [you can google cashback compare, to get a longer list of comparison sites]
Plus, from time to time, you can purchase sears gift cards for a significant discount [ie. as of right now, 6/2/17, ON EBAY, YOU CAN PURCHASE $100 SEARS.COM gift cards for $85 each, SO PURCHASE 2 x $100 GC's = $170, unless you ,,o to purchase only wone ] You can either wait for 15% off, once these sell out, or visit a gift card comparison site, such as giftcardgranny.com, etc
By stacking both discounts, you can get it for $130 - 8% ($10.40) - 15% ($19.50) = $100.10
But...DO NOT FORGET TO USE COUPONS! They always have a minimum of a $5 off $50 coupon, so check retailmenot.com for coupons, ALWAYS!
Right now you can use a $20 off $150 coupon, to get $20 worth of items for free (ie. 9700077204246011 till 6/10/17)
Or, if desperate for it right now, use that coupon to make it $150 - $20 coupon = $130 - 15% GC discount($19.50) - 8% cashback ($10.40) = $100.10 then .
www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-c3-189-8221-heavy-duty-impact-wrench-kit-powered-by-4ah-xcp76
Here's one for $170. www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCJQH1I/?coliid=I1M5BRW05KX87T&colid=I6UZIVN57WE1&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Buenas noches. Por favor agregue la dirección de Internet donde ordenarlo. Gracias.
Lograste conseguirlo?
Te funciono?
Quiero saber para comprarlo!!!
Saludos desde Juncos, Puerto Rico
Thanks for the warnings 👍👌
Thanks for sharing this. I just order one myself.
I used am impact wrench for a while, and one day the jack crashed instantly. The end nut stripped without any warning. Lucky that my tire was still on. What if just when I took off the tire. Very scary! I would never use an impact wrench for a jack again. Be gentle with a scissor jack.
Too bad he doesn't know how to use a lock washer...
thought the same thing
Hurts to watch
A impact wrench is not recommended . The lead screw and nut will eventually suffer failure .
I never thought of it, good idea,
Every one carries their impact with them.
I do.
I've been trying to find something like that
Ordered one from Amazon today
How often do you have a flat? Once in a great while, so I wouldn't worry about stripping the threads. I'll get me this adapter though. Just use an impact on a slow setting . It shouldn't be a problem. I also use an impact to takeoff my Lugnuts so it's dual purpose. All you guys out there who are saying it's silly to put it in your trunk because you have no room for it with all the other junk you're probably Hauling around? That's a good as place as any to keep it.
Dumb. The fastener won’t hold if it’s stripped.
That's exactly what I think, too. I wouldn't want to carry both a rotary drill and an impact wrench in my car. I'd prefer to just keep the impact wrench, since it's useful for tire lug nuts. Are there any hybrid combo tools that can have both features in 1, with a mode for rotary drill and another mode for impact wrench? I've heard there are hybrid combo tools which have a rotary drill mode and an impact driver mode, but since an impact driver has lower torque than an impact wrench, I'd worry that the impact driver mode wouldn't be enough to handle lug nuts.
How long would solid rubber tires last on a car?
My jack only has 1 hole. It's not a pass through. :(
Thank you ❤
Set the high torque to no. 1 or 4.
legit result following this direction
Thanks for the video! I just ordered one.
sounds good. add me & tag me on instagram when you get it! @imstricken06
Nice!👍👍
Buy a cheap inpact from harbor freight and leave in vehicle and also use on lug nuts
so always travel with your impact wrench? really
..lots of rv'ers do..
I do but I have the Makita XWT08Z impact wrench. I also have full size spare tire, lantern w/ emergency blinker, 6 fix-a-flat cans, first aid kit, 14-piece impact socket set, torque wrench, working gloves, and a tire inflator. If I get a flat, I can back on the road in 15 minutes with a full size tire replacement.
Why not buy a bottle jack?
I got me a 4 ton bottle jack for 14 dollars, is small so it fits everywhere. And it's far more simple to use it.
I still need the impact wrench to take out the lug nuts and a jack stand for insurance. It is too much effort for me to use the tire iron.
I do and I have a regular SUV
As stated below don't use an impact wrench I just learned the hard way...
Slow and steady wins the race because when it slips off and got through the foot well then you have a problem why can't you just spend 30 seconds more by hand because when you on the side of the road you don't care if it's fast as long as your going again and not had to have someone come out then I'm happy I use bottle jacks but if it gets you out the shit then who cares
I am all for it but I just use a 6 point socket.
Better
I don't recommend doing this .. I tell you for experience.. I done this to two different scissors Jack's and they both have striped. The firsts one the long screw striped and got locked.the second one the ball where the screw goes in striped. No longer went up.. so my conclusion is you can't screw them to fast or they mess up
Are you sure? I have been using the scissor jack with the makita impact driver for the last 15 years never have any problem.
Thank you
wait, you could just put on a regular and appropriate sized socket over the same area and accomplish the something. you don't need to purchase anything except use a socket that's already at home that fits over the turning mechanism.
you're welcome. I think I just saved everyone $26 or more.
no, the piece on the jack has rounded edges. i tried that. it slips
I have tried that method with a socket and you're right. It eventually slips. I usually use a cheap socket that I don't care about to get it approx. half way up and I have to stop and use the hand crank to finish it. Also my jack is tapered and not flat so I have to really push hard on it to get it hold.
Ray Smith Hey guys sorry for the delay. Here is my assessment: IT works PERFECTLY for me. I didnt need to purcase any additional tools or equipment. I have the same exact jack and I used a standard 6 point 15/16 SAE socket and it easily cranked up my friend's vehicle like churned butter.
At first I thought it'd slip but I didn't. And I tried several times. This leads me to believe that you want to avoid using a 12 point socket at all costs because that is what will cause the slippage and worse, grind out the metal surface with every turn. Additionally, you must make sure that you are on the lowest torque setting as to not burnout your internals or accidentally round out the jack and socket being used.
I also suspect that if using a much lower quality 15/16 SAE socket made of say steal, you know, the ones that are usually sold in dollar stores or something, well the inside may have already gotten rounded out enough to cause the slippages you've encountered. There is a reason why tradesmen who earn their living using tools avoid those kinds of sockets at all costs. It may be advisable to get a higher quality Chrome Vanadium metal socket instead which are know to stand up to mechanics standards.
With that said, I watched videos of other folks doing this on their standard jack (links provided on my earlier comment) and just had to try it myself. Mind blown away.
After using the socket technique on my jack to lift up both wheels, I ended up completing much needed front end suspension work that I have been delaying simply because I didn't have one of those heavy duty hand cranking jacks.
Hope this helps you guys out.
Again, in my case, a good quality 15/16 SAE socket worked out perfectly for me. Obviously if you have a slightly different size or shape jack, go with a socket that fits snug over the lever thingy and make sure to keep your tool on lowest torque setting. Slow and consistent is always better than impatience since it'll potentially lead to rounded out socket.
I don' t know why they still make scissor jacks. Your factory jack will get you killed. Get a set of proper jack/jack stands.
There's probably a few reasons:
1. They are cheap to make -- reduces cost to make vehicle and allows manufacturer to sell for lower price or increase their profit.
2. They are lightweight -- manufacturers try to save every pound they can to improve fuel economy.
3. They are dependable -- after sitting in your trunk completely neglected for 20 years, they'll still probably work.
4. They are compact -- many cars these days are so low to the ground that it would not be possible to position any other sort of jack under the car at the proper jack points (pinch welds). Sure, there are some low profile floor jacks that are available, but those are for shop use. Most people with cars that are that low to the ground are not going to routinely carry a low profile floor jack with them in the back of their car.
There are some mechanical screw type bottle jacks that were supplied with some vehicles over the years. I have one from a vehicle that used to own. This type of jack is also too high for use with many of the cars these days that have minimum ground clearance. Being purely mechanical, they will last a long time with no maintenance also. These days I only use this jack for when I'm needing to replace a garbage disposal under a sink. It's light and compact and can hold the unit while I'm finishing the replacement -- basically a second set of hands in a crowded space. Here's an example of that sort of jack:
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Hydraulic jacks (even small bottle jacks) weigh more and since they have hydraulic fluid in them and various seals, it is not uncommon to see them leak hydraulic fluid after a long period of time. Assuming that you are storing the scissor jack in a way that would promote rust (e.g. wet and salty), then they are going to still be in workable condition in 20 years.
My work van has a socket stuck permanently on the scissor jack lol
You can buy the adapters to go on top of the jack that will go in the pinch welds.
Awesome
This video is one of your best- :)
or if u have a welding machine, weld a 21 or 19mm wheel nut of your own size to it..
I’m going drill a hole1/2 drive socket And put a bolt through it
i just put a peg in a drill and that works fine
THANKS
Just like for the idea but not the best hint I be ever seen
Never seen a lockwasher go on in that order before. Worked on people mover trains for 40 yrs and that's a first. I think the instructions are wrong or you are.
You put the washer and lock washer on in the wrong order! Think about it.
FFS you going to carry a cordless drill/driver in your car? Works well @ home but the "side of the road" example is plain silly.
I have my older model Milwaukee m18 impact in the trunk all the time. I have a shitty back and don’t want to be pulling Lugnuts with a wrench. So yes.
If you buy this adapter you're probably going to have access to an impact gun in your car. That's why you would buy it ...
If you want to jack the car up fast and easy you will carry the impact wrench
Your reasoning to have this adapter is flawed.
1. its not often a car owner carries an impact wrench with him/her (needless to say about owning one)
2. timing is everything, for another vehicle to smack into a road-side stranded vehicle, all it takes is about a couple of seconds, use an impact wrench or not if its his/her time, that would be sadly it.
3. Also need a socket ...
4. the adapter, would be much more usable if it comes with an universal joint/U-joint... otherwise, maintaining a few pounds of impact wrench in-line with the jack axis can be a pain as well as causing unnecessary wear to the connections (not different from using the OEM hook to crank the jack up/down).
Good thinking, but, not thorough engineering/design.
MY reasoning is flawed? According to who- you? LoL. I always have an impact with me and a couple deep sockets that also fit lugnuts not just this socket. And you’re arguing how it takes a few seconds to get hit by a car - and I was arguing for how spending more time than needed on the wise of the road increases the LIKELIHOOD of getting hit. That’s two diff arguments. 🤦🏻♂️
You dont need that tool....just use a six point impact socket that grabs the jack.
who is going to have drill. with them all the time
And i mean like just regular people
This is what you need. www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCJQH1I/?coliid=I1M5BRW05KX87T&colid=I6UZIVN57WE1&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
That be great for me.becouse I have a electric impact
I’d rather just use a 1/2 ratchet…easy to store in the trunk. No air. No charging. Always ready. Preferably with a long handle.
you have to be careful with the things you endorse, lol. Loosen up due
WTF...terrible idea, for one, I don't store two ratchets, two socket sets, and an impact driver in my car....why would I?. The jack and handle is just for emergencies.
I Ratchet
I Break
15/16": Just use a 15/16" socket and skip the adapter.
Put some wood under the jack. Will be better.
You don't need this.. Just use a 19mm Socket.
Shit idea, he striped the thread
so now , instead of just carrying a bent bar in the trunk , you havee to carry a fully charged impact wrench ........ nice so much easier
What do you drive a gokart? How small is your trunk?? This impact then removes lugnuts quickly and installs them too. I can change a flat tire in about 2-3 minutes from trunk open to trunk closed. Every minute on the side of a highway is an extremely dangerous place to be.
so so dumb ... you literally coulda lifed the car normally in the time taken to ratchet on the adapter , with 2 ratchets , besides which , the impact wrench will WRECK that thread in no time ......
At first I gave a thumbs down. But then you started talking about honesty and how shitty the product is. So, great job
Not skocum As frig
wrong tool for the job. use a drill ffs, not an impact tool. yr gonna drop that shit on your head by micro-fracturing the thread with all those high torque impact strikes
Drills don’t have enough torque to lift a car. A drill will only unfold it if under a camper.
@@imstricken06 get a better drill. my drill has plenty of power to lift an SUV on a scissor jack, and it wont cause the fucking jack to break and kill whoever is under the car.
jacks are NOT impact rated. they are mild steel.