If you don't have a air hammer. Just drill them until you get about half way thru the ball joint. I use a small drill bit first then a 3/8 I believe. Just make sure you center the first hole and they will come out. Don't sit there beating forever with a hammer. Use pb blazer to help loosen the rivets. If your drill bits are worn get some fresh ones. It's definitely worth your time.
Thanks for posting this. It's the only video on YT for a 2WD Silverado with the riveted lower ball joints. P.S. - I see the Sway Bar Links are also shot. I hope you replaced them too!
Came here for a video to change lower ball joints on my truck . . .. . And ended up wasting about 30 min watching your dune videos 😂 Nice Tatum though😊
Took me all day to do one years ago . Torch, air hammer. I tried everything. Maybe it was the Ohio rust that caused the headache. Now I have to do my 04 Florida truck. Can decide on doing this method or just replacing the whole lower control arm being that I don't have air tools anymore
Bought those ac Delco, the box said they were made in Taiwan, sent them back and got the Moog, much better quality and made in the USA. The Moog are heat treated unlike the ac Delco. The drilling looks much safer than a cut off wheel, scared of those wheels exploding.
Awesome video! Just a question. I've always been taught that bolts go facing downward if possible in the case the nut backs out, at least its still hanging in there. Was the bolt direction install preference. Or any real thought behind it?
In the case of a ball joint asy it won't matter what direction they face if they come loose because they will be forced apart by the weight of the vehicle. As for direction, I installed them stud up because having the studs facing down would allow them to possibly catch onto something.
Thank u for the info. I have a 2004 Silverado 2wd. Last night I had to use a torch and air chisel but I got it done and new one in. At least next time when lower ball joint needs replaced I can just unbolt it. Thank u sir
@@brianbeeks9890 52 ft/lbs (MOOG K6539). That's the torque spec I could find even though I installed Duralast Gold Ball Joint GFA6539! Good Luck getting those PIA rivets out!
Working on Chevy trucks is kind of fun because it’s so easy. I’m not saying you’re not tired at the end of the day, I’m not saying it isn’t a challenge I’m just saying it’s fun because a guy like me could do ball joints, whereas with other vehicles, an impossibility.
07 Chevy Silverado 2 wheel drive lower driver ball joint top of rivets all are off I have beat and beat the rivets won't budge using a punch and 3 pound hammer any ideas
I need to do this on my 06 Silverado 2wd with 180K miles (as well as the rest of the front suspension and steering bushings)... sadly I do not have a big enough drill or air tools so it stays bad for now...
Have you seen what happens when they fail. If you got the money buy the tools or have it done. If it breaks it will be much more $$$$. Be replacing alot of suspension parts and maybe body damage.
same thin happened to me, knocked the tops off by drilling and then hitting with hammer, but cant get the rivet out the hole. best to just replace the whole lower control arm.
@@guillermodk4 I ended up drilling 2/3ds of the way through and then they popped out even with a opunch and chisle. It will be easyer on the next one ' now i got that figured out!
By the way' torch heat the top joints before you get the press started, Way easyer! The reason i try to keep the alignment parts original is so i dont have to get alignment done right away or if at all.
Thank you! As others have said, this is the only video I've seen on removing lower ball joints with rivets.
Finally a man that knows what he doing and is helpful knowledge!
Not too sure about that: drill technique is awful: Too fast, wrong lube.
@@oldschoolcars3318 what method did you do?
If you don't have a air hammer. Just drill them until you get about half way thru the ball joint. I use a small drill bit first then a 3/8 I believe. Just make sure you center the first hole and they will come out. Don't sit there beating forever with a hammer. Use pb blazer to help loosen the rivets. If your drill bits are worn get some fresh ones. It's definitely worth your time.
That’s the only way without that snap on hammer drill!
Thanks for posting this. It's the only video on YT for a 2WD Silverado with the riveted lower ball joints.
P.S. - I see the Sway Bar Links are also shot. I hope you replaced them too!
Thanks for the video! Nobody has videos on 2wd trucks. I was searching everywhere for this. What are the torque specs you are using?
I know right, I wonder if a jack underneath the lower control arm will keep the spring from shooting out
Amen on that!
@@gonzoxx8413 no the shock keeps the spring locked into place
Damn you make this look easy! Glad I found this video, I've been working on my truck for a while using brute force! Your way looks much better.
3 rivets design was fine! That 4th one is over kill just to torture the Tech/Mech. LOL Great video!
Came here for a video to change lower ball joints on my truck . . .. . And ended up wasting about 30 min watching your dune videos 😂
Nice Tatum though😊
Sorry you went squirrel 🐿️ 😂
I got mine out using your method, however it took a long time to punch the rivits out. I'm using the same Snap on air hammer as you at 125psi
Is that spring plate underneath the spring there a factory item? Or is that aftermarket to lift the truck a little?
This is currently kicking my ass
Took me all day to do one years ago . Torch, air hammer. I tried everything. Maybe it was the Ohio rust that caused the headache. Now I have to do my 04 Florida truck. Can decide on doing this method or just replacing the whole lower control arm being that I don't have air tools anymore
What's the torque specs on those bolts?
Bought those ac Delco, the box said they were made in Taiwan, sent them back and got the Moog, much better quality and made in the USA.
The Moog are heat treated unlike the ac Delco.
The drilling looks much safer than a cut off wheel, scared of those wheels exploding.
Thanks man. This is the only video that helped me
Whiz wheel or grinder, grind an X into the rivet then air hammer or chisel.
Awesome video! Just a question. I've always been taught that bolts go facing downward if possible in the case the nut backs out, at least its still hanging in there. Was the bolt direction install preference. Or any real thought behind it?
In the case of a ball joint asy it won't matter what direction they face if they come loose because they will be forced apart by the weight of the vehicle.
As for direction, I installed them stud up because having the studs facing down would allow them to possibly catch onto something.
Thank u for the info. I have a 2004 Silverado 2wd. Last night I had to use a torch and air chisel but I got it done and new one in. At least next time when lower ball joint needs replaced I can just unbolt it. Thank u sir
What's the torque spec on the (4) bolts? Thanks!
Did you ever figure it out
@@brianbeeks9890 52 ft/lbs (MOOG K6539). That's the torque spec I could find even though I installed Duralast Gold Ball Joint GFA6539! Good Luck getting those PIA rivets out!
Also would love to know the part number on the chisel "wedge" as you called it
Exactly what I needed! Thanks man You earned a sub.
Whats the trorque?
Working on Chevy trucks is kind of fun because it’s so easy. I’m not saying you’re not tired at the end of the day, I’m not saying it isn’t a challenge I’m just saying it’s fun because a guy like me could do ball joints, whereas with other vehicles, an impossibility.
That's a smart way to get the job done. Now I got an excuse to buy an air hammer!
Awesome video will help me what size drill bit did you use to drill the rivets out
Answer?
@@camerinbricker1645 never got an answer
I dont recall. Just used a bit larger than the pin under rivet
I don't not have air tool can I use hand tools to get job done
is there a part 1 of this video? I'd like to see how you got to the point where this video begins.
07 Chevy Silverado 2 wheel drive lower driver ball joint top of rivets all are off I have beat and beat the rivets won't budge using a punch and 3 pound hammer any ideas
Did you drill out center of rivet
good idea drilling first before air hammering....i learned the hard way..had to replace entire control arm..
im doing some on a gmc k100 and its kicking my ass. I had to drill it out. i dont have that punch bit fir my impact driver.
Would you consider this suspension heavy duty ?
Can drilling be avoided?
What size bit?
I had to do both sides of my 04 Silverado by hand no air it was a bitch but it was an experience wish I had a shop
How did you do it, did you drill it too I have an 04 2wd as well, and trying to replace this lower ball joint.
What size drill bit did u use?
Any luck?
Do the Mac electric tools feel like dewalt painted red or any different?
The new electric tools are made by dewalt. That's why the batteries fit
MAC ones have rubberized battery covers
That big of a bit too high of speed on drill. Don't need to lube it either dewalt bits last probably 800 holes before dull
Whats the air tool you are using to to punch out the rivets
Looks similar to my snapon air chisel. Best out there hands down.
You made it look too easy thanks
Is this the same for 06 chevy silverado crew cab?
Yup for a 2WD
Thanks I was unsure of what lower ball joints to buy wanted to buy the correct ones thank you for the reply and for the helpful video
Very very good 👍
I need to do this on my 06 Silverado 2wd with 180K miles (as well as the rest of the front suspension and steering bushings)... sadly I do not have a big enough drill or air tools so it stays bad for now...
Have you seen what happens when they fail. If you got the money buy the tools or have it done. If it breaks it will be much more $$$$. Be replacing alot of suspension parts and maybe body damage.
How much psi did you run in the punch?
Looks like 500 psi compered to mine 😅
What's the
Torque on the bolts
👍🏼Thanks
This 06 i am working on, the rivets are "NOT" punching out, with the same air hammer i knocked the tops off with. Now i have mess!!!
same thin happened to me, knocked the tops off by drilling and then hitting with hammer, but cant get the rivet out the hole. best to just replace the whole lower control arm.
@@guillermodk4 I ended up drilling 2/3ds of the way through and then they popped out even with a opunch and chisle.
It will be easyer on the next one ' now i got that figured out!
By the way' torch heat the top joints before you get the press started, Way easyer! The reason i try to keep the alignment parts original is so i dont have to get alignment done right away or if at all.
@@guillermodk4 I ended up drilling the rivets 2/3rds the way through then used a punch and hammer.
They came right out then.
what’s keep the spring compressed and in place??
I didnt really have to do anything with the spring at all , just have a floor jack under control arm is all to add or let off tension on control arm
The sway bar end link is keeping tension on the lower control arm.
Nice... Ok now do an it again without the air tools... Thats what i need to see.
How much pounds did you put on
I had to take it to my uncle because I'm having this same problem removing this ball joint
What name brand punch is that? That is the chit!
My question is why not just replace the ball joint and lift the sheeth and everything else is bad
Drill Baby Drill.
Nearly five minutes before he said a word.
it dont cost me nothing to share videos, why they charging you....seems a little fishy to me, i'd look into that if i was you.
Thats the wrong year dude
Pretty sad, “factory” parts made in China!
What Size Drill Bit?