That's amazing. At 15:48, replacing the lower ball joint mysteriously rejuvenates the whole lower control arm. Somehow, it even cleaned itself from all those years of rust and dirt! I'm definitely only buying ball joints from you guys from now on. I've never seen that happen ever before. It's like a miracle!
To All Installers, ON the top or Lower Ball Joints; You make sure the Ball Joint is tight before You Torque. VERY IIMPORTANT; The Ball Joints are Tapered Fit. NOTE (the tighter you torque the nut, the Tapered Fit will squeeze together) and that Ball Joint MUST BE SEATED TOGETHER BEFORE YOU TORQUE. If You Noticed the Nut turned after He Torqued the Top Nut. That shouldn't Never Happened. Those MUST BE TIGHT. In addition, I Always put A Light Grease or oil on the Stud side of the Ball Joint to make the Metal slide together better. The Light Grease will squeeze out over time, but grease create a slippery joint to fuse the taper joint together. In Addition check the Tapered Wholes for dirt of pieces of Metal in the Whole and clean before you install the Ball Joint. A tapered Joint MUST BE TIGHT BEFORE you torque the Nut. If the Joint is loose it will Wear the Taper Fit and the Frontend will become lose. Over tightening is less damage than under tightening. Dry surfaces will not slide and well as Lubricated joints with lite Grease will fit tighter to the Stud on the Ball Joints.
I had to watch the intro twice because he said that they've been selling auto parts for over 30 years but the subtitles said 20 years. 😆 A-1 Auto tutorials are the best for learning about my 1999 Suburban!
At 15:48, there is an attached sway bar link. In the very next frame it's completely gone, only to be nonchalantly reinstalled with no mention of where it went in the first place.
+Tyler Genke Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
For some strange reason this video doesn't say 2001 chevy silverado needs a whole new bottom control arm as the original is pressed and can't be replaced
If the lower ball joint has a snap ring on it the ball joint has been replaced. On the factory GM trucks from 07 up the factory lowe ball joints are pressed in and the factory peens the part of the top of the lower ball joint over onto the lower control arms so what you have to do is use a grinder to grind those 4 ears off or what i did was ground all the way around the top of the ball joint then used the ball joint press and it came out no problem remember that this is on the trucks that have the cast iron control arms and not the aluminum ones . I found most of the videos on changing these out usually show the aftermarket ball joint that has the snap ring and not the factory boll joints that are pressed and peened to the lower control arms. If your truck is rusty you cant actually see these 4 ears that get peened over because of the rust so just use a hand held grinder and grind all the way around the top of the ball joint to grind those off and if you dont you won't be able to push the old ball joint out . My truck is a 2009 Silverado 1500 4x4 so of course to change that lower ball joint the whole hub assembly has to come off in order to get a grinder in to grind that peened over factory ball joint . If you look closely that peened part almost looks like a ring on top of the lower ball joint but on mine because its a midwest truck that sees snow and salt i couldn't see these 4 ears so its just easier to grind that small lip or ring off all the way around to then press it out . Hopefully this helps others that dont have the aftermarket replaced lower ball joint that has the snap ring and has the factory ball joint.
Great video. I have a 2011 Gmc sierra 1500 and this is the 4 the time I go to your chanel to get instructions on how to remove and replace parts for it. I'm also a customer of your parts. Thanks for your helpful videos and amazing customer service
+REDSPECK HUNTER Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
the first tool you were trying to use on the upper ball joint was upside down my friend, those tools work awesome :) thank you for the video! about to do all the ball joints on my truck and wanted to make sure there was no irregular funny business involved.
Nice video. I do not know how you stayed so clean and used no profanity. I did learn something by you taking off the caliper bracket and the brake caliper at the same time. Very smart, the thought never occurred to me.
+Richard Smith Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
It makes sense for space to remove the caliper and rotor but you really dont need to. Saved me a good 30 minutes on each side by leaving them. Just dont strain the break lines
Yours went a lot easier than mine is going. My upper ball came out of the control arm, and the pickle fork is all the way in the lower joint, and despite a hour of hammering it has yet to come out.
+Derek Eickholtz Thanks for checking us out! You may be able to use some of the techniques shown in this video to help get that removed - th-cam.com/video/RbRp8HxQFaI/w-d-xo.html 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+texas 1991 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Mine were particularly stubborn lower ball joint put but on jacked up under ball joint stud then hit pickle fork as hard as I could from behind the wheel towards the front
On my 2001 Chevy Silverado the control arms were way different. The ball joints were riveted in. The controls arms were formed steel and not cast iron like these. Save yourself some time and buy new control arms. You will get new bushing and all of the hardware too.
Why wouldn't you do both upper and lower at the same time? If the bottom is bad what's the likelihood that the top will need replaced soon as well as both sides?
My 1999 Chevy Silverado has the 3 rivits on the lower ball joint! Either I have to cut the 3 rivets off with an angle grinder or replace the entire control arm!
So what size socket works as a ball joint tool? Got a big c clamp so just need to know what size socket i need. And i didnt need to take stabilizer link out.
10:22 on my 03 silverado 1500 4WD used the receiving tube that was too big but my control arm allowed for ~240 degrees of the tube to be under the control arm and sit behind the ball joint under the arm and it worked. This control arm in the video wont allow the tube behind the joint under the arm it seems.
Great video. One question - during the disassembly, the sway bar link was NOT removed but during re-assembly it was re-installed. Is it necessary to remove the sway bar links during this procedure? Thanks
Cost. I bought their “almost” complete suspension and steering package, without lowers. A pair of lowers costs more than an entire kit of uppers, ball joints, pitman arm, idler assembly, tie rods, and sway links. I just bought a good old Yukon with really tired steering, and their $200 kit, plus a new steering gear, got it feeling like new. A pair of lowers wouldn’t have done much for the driving experience, for more than everything else, so was cost prohibitive in my case. In a perfect world I’d have $270 more to also replace the lowers, but as it is, I got a great driving car for about $500 in parts total, with the old lowers holding it all together just fine.
These videos are humbling because even though they show how to do an efficient job yourself, you can tell how it's no walk in the park for anyone who doesn't work on cars often.
my 08 silverado is at the shop at this very moment, they are replacing the whole lower arm control. the mechanic said they have to replace the whole thing.
Did you fix it? I’m running into the 4 rivet thing now... it’s not a through hole from what I can tell like the video shows. It looks like it is some sort of domed cap.
marlin gustafson from the research I have done, they have to be cut off with a grinder. I’m trying to figure out how to do this as well because the part I’m looking at has the ball joint attached to a plate, and comes with four bolts. Good luck though.
I used the fittings from autozone and the install I felt like I didn’t have the right fittings.. where can I get the fittings kit that you use for the ball joints install?
In this example the truck was a 2wd and didn’t have the cv axel obstructing the upper ball joint from the torque wrench. In the example of the truck being 4x4 how do you torque the upper ball joint to spec considering the cv axel is in the way?
Well please enlighten, because I'm curious and concerned as to placing a cotter pin correctly....please if you will, give a brief explanation on the correct way. I may have to go back through boat propeller, wheel hubs, and countless other things I've place them on.😳 It’s good to learn these fine details on the proper way to do even the simplest things.
I got a whole front end kit from you guys cause I had to change my upper ball joints and they fit but the paper with the list says the lower ball joints are for a astro van is this the same or do i have the wrong lower ball joints ? I have 09 silverado 1500
Hello, Please contact us directly by email service@1aauto.com or phone 1-888-844-3393 and we will be able to pull up your order and assist you further. Thank you. +ICU81 2
You showed and commented that your new lower ball joints come with a new castle but installed the ball joint without a castle nut. Was that a locking nut then?
I have an 03 sierra 4wd and I need a new CV axle while i also replace the lower ball joints. can I take the cv axle off and turn the knuckle where I don’t have to take everything off to press out the ball joint
Just a suggestion, but one thing I don't see is "When SHOULD you replace a ball joint?" What are some symptoms of a bad one? Do most people change the upper and lower at the same time? Anyone reading this feel free to chime in if you know; share the knowledge!
I replaced my upper control arm and bottom ball joint. Now my steering doesn't return to center after turning. Before I tighten the upper control arm ball joint it is hard to turn the nuckle by hand.
+Guns N Gears Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
That's amazing. At 15:48, replacing the lower ball joint mysteriously rejuvenates the whole lower control arm. Somehow, it even cleaned itself from all those years of rust and dirt! I'm definitely only buying ball joints from you guys from now on. I've never seen that happen ever before. It's like a miracle!
Dude I noticed that too
To All Installers, ON the top or Lower Ball Joints; You make sure the Ball Joint is tight before You Torque. VERY IIMPORTANT; The Ball Joints are Tapered Fit. NOTE (the tighter you torque the nut, the Tapered Fit will squeeze together) and that Ball Joint MUST BE SEATED TOGETHER BEFORE YOU TORQUE. If You Noticed the Nut turned after He Torqued the Top Nut. That shouldn't Never Happened. Those MUST BE TIGHT. In addition, I Always put A Light Grease or oil on the Stud side of the Ball Joint to make the Metal slide together better. The Light Grease will squeeze out over time, but grease create a slippery joint to fuse the taper joint together. In Addition check the Tapered Wholes for dirt of pieces of Metal in the Whole and clean before you install the Ball Joint. A tapered Joint MUST BE TIGHT BEFORE you torque the Nut. If the Joint is loose it will Wear the Taper Fit and the Frontend will become lose. Over tightening is less damage than under tightening. Dry surfaces will not slide and well as Lubricated joints with lite Grease will fit tighter to the Stud on the Ball Joints.
The way you guys break these into chapters is the best thing ever
I had to watch the intro twice because he said that they've been selling auto parts for over 30 years but the subtitles said 20 years. 😆 A-1 Auto tutorials are the best for learning about my 1999 Suburban!
At 15:48, there is an attached sway bar link. In the very next frame it's completely gone, only to be nonchalantly reinstalled with no mention of where it went in the first place.
That was cute when you said the tie rod nut had rust
Surface rust if that
Thank you A-1 Auto for making these instructional videos they have guided me through many projects.
+Tyler Genke Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
For some strange reason this video doesn't say 2001 chevy silverado needs a whole new bottom control arm as the original is pressed and can't be replaced
If the lower ball joint has a snap ring on it the ball joint has been replaced. On the factory GM trucks from 07 up the factory lowe ball joints are pressed in and the factory peens the part of the top of the lower ball joint over onto the lower control arms so what you have to do is use a grinder to grind those 4 ears off or what i did was ground all the way around the top of the ball joint then used the ball joint press and it came out no problem remember that this is on the trucks that have the cast iron control arms and not the aluminum ones . I found most of the videos on changing these out usually show the aftermarket ball joint that has the snap ring and not the factory boll joints that are pressed and peened to the lower control arms. If your truck is rusty you cant actually see these 4 ears that get peened over because of the rust so just use a hand held grinder and grind all the way around the top of the ball joint to grind those off and if you dont you won't be able to push the old ball joint out . My truck is a 2009 Silverado 1500 4x4 so of course to change that lower ball joint the whole hub assembly has to come off in order to get a grinder in to grind that peened over factory ball joint . If you look closely that peened part almost looks like a ring on top of the lower ball joint but on mine because its a midwest truck that sees snow and salt i couldn't see these 4 ears so its just easier to grind that small lip or ring off all the way around to then press it out . Hopefully this helps others that dont have the aftermarket replaced lower ball joint that has the snap ring and has the factory ball joint.
Y'all saved me a lot of hassle today. This particular video is on point, thanks guys!
Great video. I have a 2011 Gmc sierra 1500 and this is the 4 the time I go to your chanel to get instructions on how to remove and replace parts for it. I'm also a customer of your parts. Thanks for your helpful videos and amazing customer service
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Jose Lopez
The breaker bar is arguably the most important tool in the shop... Besides ratchet, lift, jack and stands
the old lower control arm turned into a new lower control arm.
Yeah I was wondering the same thing
And the new rotor turned into an old one at the end.
Thomas Fodel 😂😂😂
Not sure if that's correct since they didn't replace the other 2 bushings.
Did they paint it?
My next job, keep the videos coming. Your videos makes it easy for us. Plus I have already ordered a few products from you guys.
+REDSPECK HUNTER Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
No video for upper ball joint 2001 silverado replace.
notices the new one has no grease cert, "those are exactly the same on the bottom" then quickly flips them over. love it
Now I am ready for a weekend project with my sister!
That new lower control arm really threw me off for a min haha
The ball joint come with a new castle nut but new control I was like something when wrong
the first tool you were trying to use on the upper ball joint was upside down my friend, those tools work awesome :) thank you for the video! about to do all the ball joints on my truck and wanted to make sure there was no irregular funny business involved.
That is the lower ball joint.
The new arm magically appeared good job 😆
Did the lower turn into a new one......magicccc!!!!
These guys always work on the oldest, rustiest shit I’ve ever seen. But I live in TN and rust isn’t a big problem here.
Try living in Minnesota lol
Nice video. I do not know how you stayed so clean and used no profanity. I did learn something by you taking off the caliper bracket and the brake caliper at the same time. Very smart, the thought never occurred to me.
+Richard Smith Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
You guys are awesome for posting these videos!
Good Video the ball joint on the model I have has four factory rivets I'm gonna have to knock out it's not pressed in
It makes sense for space to remove the caliper and rotor but you really dont need to. Saved me a good 30 minutes on each side by leaving them. Just dont strain the break lines
Thank you 1A auto you guys are awesome!
+Omar Ramirez Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Looked like removing the hubcap was more of a challenge then anything
“Gunna give it a tap” and slams the hammer like 4 times
Hey, great video and very helpful. Love your clean, uncluttered shop. Cheers from South Carolina!
Changed the entire control arm on my 4x4
You guys are awesome. I was able to DIY everything from the driveway of my home. Thanks guys
Wouldn't that be do it myself?
@@br5747 yeah
Well done, I think I can handle it, thanks for the help!!👍
I've done so many of these, I bet I could do one blindfolded quite easily.
Would have been nice if it was a 4x4 showing that you have to remove the CV axel as well.
I bought a bunch of parts from these guys, they're the best!!
Take it easy, no rushing.
Thanks for this video, explained very well, just the only problem is the price of this tool.
Always doing great videos! Thank you
+Nena Magaña Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you very much. Keep up the amazing work.
Yours went a lot easier than mine is going. My upper ball came out of the control arm, and the pickle fork is all the way in the lower joint, and despite a hour of hammering it has yet to come out.
+Derek Eickholtz Thanks for checking us out! You may be able to use some of the techniques shown in this video to help get that removed - th-cam.com/video/RbRp8HxQFaI/w-d-xo.html 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you gentlemen.
i love buying from you guys
+texas 1991 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Yall guys always make it easy 👍👍👍👍
I was Watching Lost until i somehow stumbled onto Watching this whole video. I dont need to replace anything on my truck.
+Matt M Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have to do this on my 08. Doesn't look too difficult.
Mine were particularly stubborn lower ball joint put but on jacked up under ball joint stud then hit pickle fork as hard as I could from behind the wheel towards the front
On my 2001 Chevy Silverado the control arms were way different. The ball joints were riveted in. The controls arms were formed steel and not cast iron like these.
Save yourself some time and buy new control arms. You will get new bushing and all of the hardware too.
Why wouldn't you do both upper and lower at the same time? If the bottom is bad what's the likelihood that the top will need replaced soon as well as both sides?
My 1999 Chevy Silverado has the 3 rivits on the lower ball joint! Either I have to cut the 3 rivets off with an angle grinder or replace the entire control arm!
great video thank you so much!!!
I have never seen anyone tighten lugnuts with a 1/2 inch ratchet and socket with the plastic protector on steel rims 😂
TH-cam is reading my mind at this point
So what size socket works as a ball joint tool? Got a big c clamp so just need to know what size socket i need. And i didnt need to take stabilizer link out.
great video and advice,thanks
Thanks for the video. One thing though--you showed installing the sway bar link, but you didn't show initially removing it.
+Matt Thie Thanks for the feedback!
Reverse of installation.
Great video. Thanks for the time making it. Is it the same process for the top ball joint also?
Was that cup pressing on the rubber boot during install? It appeared the boot was getting compromised.
Excellent walk through
10:22 on my 03 silverado 1500 4WD used the receiving tube that was too big but my control arm allowed for ~240 degrees of the tube to be under the control arm and sit behind the ball joint under the arm and it worked. This control arm in the video wont allow the tube behind the joint under the arm it seems.
Yay the better guy
Great video. One question - during the disassembly, the sway bar link was NOT removed but during re-assembly it was re-installed. Is it necessary to remove the sway bar links during this procedure? Thanks
Yes, you need to remove it
Crazy someone was in there replacing 3/4 of the components and didn't replace the lower lol
Dennis Berg They make multiple videos with each part being replaced and they put it back together to take it apart for the next part
Cost. I bought their “almost” complete suspension and steering package, without lowers. A pair of lowers costs more than an entire kit of uppers, ball joints, pitman arm, idler assembly, tie rods, and sway links. I just bought a good old Yukon with really tired steering, and their $200 kit, plus a new steering gear, got it feeling like new. A pair of lowers wouldn’t have done much for the driving experience, for more than everything else, so was cost prohibitive in my case. In a perfect world I’d have $270 more to also replace the lowers, but as it is, I got a great driving car for about $500 in parts total, with the old lowers holding it all together just fine.
Good job buddy .I ll do It
These videos are humbling because even though they show how to do an efficient job yourself, you can tell how it's no walk in the park for anyone who doesn't work on cars often.
my 08 silverado is at the shop at this very moment, they are replacing the whole lower arm control. the mechanic said they have to replace the whole thing.
+Fabrizzio Rivera Thanks for the feedback!
Very good explanation, thanks for your video.
+carlos Vasquez Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
So you didn't have the correct size to take it off but you had the right size to put it on. What's up with that?
Great video but you cut/edit and put different video I mean on one frame it’s a used Bottom control arm the next frame it’s new!
This is helpful but my lower balljoint doesn’t want to let go!😤
1999 and 2000 have 4 factory rivets that even after you cut the tops off wont come out. how do you deal with that?
Did you fix it? I’m running into the 4 rivet thing now... it’s not a through hole from what I can tell like the video shows. It looks like it is some sort of domed cap.
You Missed the part with the torch and the 15lb sledge for the lower.. and new spindle because of the beating it took hitting it
preach... it's never that simple. not here in rust country anyway.
I have an 06 GMC sierra 1500 that has rivets in the lower arm. could you give me the information on how to remove the rivets?
marlin gustafson from the research I have done, they have to be cut off with a grinder. I’m trying to figure out how to do this as well because the part I’m looking at has the ball joint attached to a plate, and comes with four bolts. Good luck though.
They have a video for that
I used the fittings from autozone and the install I felt like I didn’t have the right fittings.. where can I get the fittings kit that you use for the ball joints install?
Can you guys do video on Neutral safety switch on silverado haha
He sounds like Toby from the office
Lmfaooo
A couple pumps on the grease gun turned into 12 or so. No zork on bottom ball joint junk.
+Alan Jones Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
In this example the truck was a 2wd and didn’t have the cv axel obstructing the upper ball joint from the torque wrench. In the example of the truck being 4x4 how do you torque the upper ball joint to spec considering the cv axel is in the way?
Does the ball joint articulate in all directions or do you need to orientated a particular way?
Can the upper ball joint be replace on a 1999 gmc yukon 2wd or not or the whole arm needs to be replace thank you
As an aircraft mechanic, watching you install cotter pins is cringeworthy! Other than that though, great video.
Well please enlighten, because I'm curious and concerned as to placing a cotter pin correctly....please if you will, give a brief explanation on the correct way. I may have to go back through boat propeller, wheel hubs, and countless other things I've place them on.😳
It’s good to learn these fine details on the proper way to do even the simplest things.
What size adapter do u use for the ball joint press I have a 99 2wd chevy silverado
Nothing like the lower ball joint on my 06 Silverado 2wd... This is mostly for early 99-03 GMC or 08+ GM trucks.
+Mike K4ISR Thanks for the feedback!
Would this video be used for a 2002 suburban also.
Fyi this is a 2wd apparently. Most older Silverados are 4wd by now, as the 2wd types are more readily junked.
I got a whole front end kit from you guys cause I had to change my upper ball joints and they fit but the paper with the list says the lower ball joints are for a astro van is this the same or do i have the wrong lower ball joints ? I have 09 silverado 1500
Hello, Please contact us directly by email service@1aauto.com or phone 1-888-844-3393 and we will be able to pull up your order and assist you further.
Thank you. +ICU81 2
They completely changed the control arm ! Why was there no mention of this ?
How did u remove the axle
rwd. normally you leave the axle nut at the end of the shaft and put an impact socket to protect it for your BFG.
I don't think I'll take off the upper control arm nut, should have a lot of free play after tie rod and axle are off to give plenty of room
Did it not fit? You had a new lower control arm at the end.
I'm thinking the exact same thing
+Various Tags It did - we replaced the lower control arm as well while the vehicle was apart (and made a separate video for that)
You showed and commented that your new lower ball joints come with a new castle but installed the ball joint without a castle nut. Was that a locking nut then?
I have an 03 sierra 4wd and I need a new CV axle while i also replace the lower ball joints. can I take the cv axle off and turn the knuckle where I don’t have to take everything off to press out the ball joint
Doesn't look like mine!!! I got 4 major rivets. Got to be drilled out!
My shop where I go to wants $2100 to do upper an lower ball joints ,is that too much ?
What’s the most common breaker bar used in auto work?
Whichever ones closest by
Just a suggestion, but one thing I don't see is "When SHOULD you replace a ball joint?" What are some symptoms of a bad one? Do most people change the upper and lower at the same time? Anyone reading this feel free to chime in if you know; share the knowledge!
+arsbadmojo Thankyou for watching, here's the how-to video you're looking for: th-cam.com/video/ZzwvijyQpdU/w-d-xo.html
Why don't the 1A Auto lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends come with grease fittings? My original parts had them.
I replaced my upper control arm and bottom ball joint. Now my steering doesn't return to center after turning. Before I tighten the upper control arm ball joint it is hard to turn the nuckle by hand.
Looks like the jobs already been done all the new parts on there
Whats the tool you use to put the ball joint back in?? Thank you
Be aware folks, the TRQ stuff does not come with Grease Zerks.
+Guns N Gears Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.