Did lower ball joint on 2006 Duramax today. Had to drill 5 relief holes in old joint close to edge of arm. It was a ball joint from Iran!!! Finally got it to start moving. 2 hours of pounding with block of wood and trolley jack under lower arm. I even let it soak overnight in transmission fluid. It was original. Changed hub bearing Timken, upper ball joint and backing plate. Did not forget the new knuckle hub o-ring.
Tip- After wheel is removed, first remove outer tie rod from knuckle. This allows you to turn the knuckle any which way you want without having to go inside the vehicle and turn the steering wheel. Great vid!
Fantastic. Easy to tell he is the voice of much experience. I wish he had done the lower A-arm bushings as I need to do mine and not sure about the torsion bar. Best on youtube!
I completed the identical procedure for the first time on my 1995 Silverado K2500 4WD. Everything went exactly as you demonstrated on the video. The only problem I ran into was keeping the lower ball joint aligned while trying to press it into place. I had a hard time getting it to go in straight. It wanted to list sideways. Do you have any suggestions on how to manage this problem.
Old post, but for future searchers, place the ball joint in the freezer overnight. Then heat up the control arm hole with a propane torch. The ball joint will almost slip in by hand. Be mindful of the zerk hole in relation to that service divet on the control arm when you're inserting the ball joint, like Brian pointed out. Also, wear gloves so you don't get burned.
Just a word of wisdom. Make sure you know which lower control arms you have. These ones are forged (7200#) lowers, where heavier front ends will have stamped (8600#) lower control arms. The ball joints are a different size press fit. I like the video😉
If you don't mind me asking what year is this truck? thanks for this great video, is it a large stud? reason why I ask is I'm modifying my old van upper control arms, the ball joints on this one are large studs, thanks again
would you have any idea where I can get the rubber Jounce Bumpers for my 04 Ford Ranger 4X4 both sides were rotted out Do you know of a substitute maybe
At 9:19 he starts to remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle----so I don't need that special separator? The J 42188-B? I can just use normal methods like what you're doing? I am looking into doing this on a 2013 silverado 2500 hd and I see it's saying I need that special separator. Thanks in advance for any info you have.
Thanks for the video. I needed to confirm that they do flip the upper ballpoint at the factory as compared to k1500 uca. I needed some more +camber after raising tortion bars and positioning bj under uca did the trick.
I just removed the original riveted lower ball joints on a 1990 k2500. How I did it was air chisel the heads off, then drilled the rivets about 2/3 of their depth (did not drill all the way through), using a 5/16" cobalt/titanium bit. Next, used a 5/16" straight punch and a 3-lb. hammer to pound the rivets out. I did have to use a torch to heat up the metal around the rivets, though, and even then, had to beat the snot out of them to get them out (truck is from New England where road salt is used in winter).
I thought the upper ball joint flange was supposed to go on top of the control arm, right? my factory one on the other side is this way and it is how I've seen everyone else do it. I ask because it looks like my ball joint has a gap since I replaced it
thanks enjoyed the video well done. about to do the same to my truck, only criticism i have is wear some gloves before you need to watch liver transplant videos brake clean is nasty shit
+stilltlrforlife Agreed the 3lb sledge is best they blow right through on the Fords I do but this truck was extremely rusted. Also it's hard to explain but with the camera in the way and you being out of the way it makes things very awkward to work on.
you never want to use a file on that inner bore that's a critical area you're adding scarring to the surface just Scotch-Brite and your hand with a rag and clean it you only file if there was something raised up
Why not show how to change ball joints only? Instead this guy explains how to remove a tire and a whole lot if info no one cares about. Wastes everyone's time!!!
First truck owner here. This video will be helping me tremendously. Thank you.
Did lower ball joint on 2006 Duramax today. Had to drill 5 relief holes in old joint close to edge of arm. It was a ball joint from Iran!!! Finally got it to start moving. 2 hours of pounding with block of wood and trolley jack under lower arm. I even let it soak overnight in transmission fluid. It was original. Changed hub bearing Timken, upper ball joint and backing plate. Did not forget the new knuckle hub o-ring.
Excellent tutorial. Haven't started tearing into my 89 Silverado, but this helps immensely!
Tip- After wheel is removed, first remove outer tie rod from knuckle. This allows you to turn the knuckle any which way you want without having to go inside the vehicle and turn the steering wheel. Great vid!
Excellent video! You’re a great teacher with great hints! About to do my 1998 6.5 and feel way more confident now! Thank you 👍🏼
Fantastic. Easy to tell he is the voice of much experience. I wish he had done the lower A-arm bushings as I need to do mine and not sure about the torsion bar. Best on youtube!
Best k2500 front sus vid on youtube.
Thanks for making the video BSG. Your instructions are very clear. I'm ready to tackle this front end job soon😬.
good video. milled the ball joint rivets off and it took a 20 ton press to push those pins through.
next time I'm buying a complete control arm! Lol.
Excellent video...will be doing my suburbans tomorrow thanks to this video!
I completed the identical procedure for the first time on my 1995 Silverado K2500 4WD. Everything went exactly as you demonstrated on the video. The only problem I ran into was keeping the lower ball joint aligned while trying to press it into place. I had a hard time getting it to go in straight. It wanted to list sideways. Do you have any suggestions on how to manage this problem.
Old post, but for future searchers, place the ball joint in the freezer overnight. Then heat up the control arm hole with a propane torch. The ball joint will almost slip in by hand. Be mindful of the zerk hole in relation to that service divet on the control arm when you're inserting the ball joint, like Brian pointed out. Also, wear gloves so you don't get burned.
Solid video! With what size sockets you need and the file!! This is PRO!! Much props! Thank you!
Just a word of wisdom. Make sure you know which lower control arms you have. These ones are forged (7200#) lowers, where heavier front ends will have stamped (8600#) lower control arms. The ball joints are a different size press fit. I like the video😉
If you don't mind me asking what year is this truck? thanks for this great video, is it a large stud? reason why I ask is I'm modifying my old van upper control arms, the ball joints on this one are large studs, thanks again
Great video with lots of detail and good video work. Steps were very similar to my 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4WD.
Wonder if its that same as a 1997 k1500 burban any idea?
would you have any idea where I can get the rubber Jounce Bumpers for my 04 Ford Ranger 4X4 both sides were rotted out Do you know of a substitute maybe
At 9:19 he starts to remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle----so I don't need that special separator? The J 42188-B? I can just use normal methods like what you're doing? I am looking into doing this on a 2013 silverado 2500 hd and I see it's saying I need that special separator. Thanks in advance for any info you have.
Thanks for the video. I needed to confirm that they do flip the upper ballpoint at the factory as compared to k1500 uca. I needed some more +camber after raising tortion bars and positioning bj under uca did the trick.
Excellent how to video. Only thing I would change is speed up the sequence showing how to remove a wheel.
Can you tell me what year this vehicle is? It looks the same as the 2013 silverado 2500 hd, if I'm not mistaken. Thank you sir!
It’s a 94 or around there
Very well done, Brian. I see you're a whiz on GM vehicles as well as Fords.
+wysetech2000 Kind of......
Yeah, you are. Very precise in your work.
wysetech2000 v vvt1kn
I have 4 steel pins on my lower ball joint. Should I center punch and drill these out? (1995 k-1500 W/T)
I just removed the original riveted lower ball joints on a 1990 k2500. How I did it was air chisel the heads off, then drilled the rivets about 2/3 of their depth (did not drill all the way through), using a 5/16" cobalt/titanium bit. Next, used a 5/16" straight punch and a 3-lb. hammer to pound the rivets out. I did have to use a torch to heat up the metal around the rivets, though, and even then, had to beat the snot out of them to get them out (truck is from New England where road salt is used in winter).
@@kenc.9067
I KNOW what you went through!
I did my left and right on a 95 k1500.
What year group are you working on here?
That info would be nice to know if it were in the title.
Keith Matthews 89-98 the same
Is that a forged bottom arm?
Mopar rust penetrating oil... 😂😂😂 I'll bet it is the best! They need something like that the most! Haha! Sorry, had to! 👍😉 Great video! Thank you!
I liked your video, nice job.
can you tell me if the lower was forged or stamped?
Forged/cast
Excellent video, Thank you!
Always Great Videos! Mahalo's. Ever try Kroil penetrant? Stuff works great. It really wicks into everything and makes it super easy.
+Hawaiian F150 Yes I have a can of it for the very tough jobs.
Well done. Thanks
What is the size of the scocket(s) needed to take off the ball joint castle nuts?
24 mm bottom. 18 mm top
Great video, love your Chanel , keep the good work my friend thank you
Thanks great video
I thought the upper ball joint flange was supposed to go on top of the control arm, right? my factory one on the other side is this way and it is how I've seen everyone else do it.
I ask because it looks like my ball joint has a gap since I replaced it
John if it goes on the top, you can't get the stud all the way through the knuckle.
I have the same question. I'm second guessing now. But it seems to only line up from below.
this video good for a 99 tahoe 4x4?
Which brand name is good wheel bearing
Timken and Moog is ok too.
Lock tight Green on lower ball joint.
Pretty good video
Informative video thanks 🙏🖖
I loctite the uppers regardless
Glad to see this but I'm confused by the fact that its not a Ford... Lol
Does anyone know what size the lower ball joint nut is?
Nice job......
My 1994 K2500 lower ball joint look nothing like yours. In my limited experience press in ball joints have always been on K1500s. Video was no help.
thanks enjoyed the video well done. about to do the same to my truck, only criticism i have is wear some gloves before you need to watch liver transplant videos brake clean is nasty shit
It would have been a nice helpful video if you told us the sizes
180 ft lbs for the axle nut
You Know it's a GM when you get about 10 pounds of rust on the ground lol
@@deadguy361 right dodges are 30# and fords dont even make it into the garage
step back and hit that thing man...3 good hits and they're out for me..although I do them all day long at the dealer.
+stilltlrforlife Agreed the 3lb sledge is best they blow right through on the Fords I do but this truck was extremely rusted. Also it's hard to explain but with the camera in the way and you being out of the way it makes things very awkward to work on.
BSG Automotive yea, I get it..doing it on a hoist helps too. more leverage for a good swing
you never want to use a file on that inner bore that's a critical area
you're adding scarring to the surface just Scotch-Brite and your hand with a rag and clean it
you only file if there was something raised up
Why didn't you just press the lower out? Much easier than beating it out
No tools
Hit it from the backside!!!
If they were all that easy.
Why not show how to change ball joints only? Instead this guy explains how to remove a tire and a whole lot if info no one cares about. Wastes everyone's time!!!