Finishing Cabinets with Graco Airless Sprayer: Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- Sand with 180
Wipe down and vacuum well to remove all debris
Tools/Products Used:
Graco Nova 390 PC: www.graco.com/...
Graco Rac X FFLP 310 Tip: www.graco.com/...
Sherwin-Williams Premium Wall and Wood Primer: www.sherwin-wi...
Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane: www.sherwin-wi...
Instagram: / villellacustomwoodworking
Facebook: / villella-custom-woodwo...
Website: www.villellacu...
Tools: www.villellacu...
Paint Life TV (The Idaho Painter): / @idahopainter
The best primer I’ve used on cabinets and it also feels in the wood grain very good on oak cabinets is the extreme blocker oil base from Sherwin-Williams. Then two topcoats of the emerald urethane and you’re good to go
Thanks for the info. Emerald was my go to but I started to use Renner and I’m hooked. Eric Reason has great content on other water based products too.
I have used an HVLP for 8 yrs. the airless puts on volume far quicker. I’m a fan of the airless for production.
Whta HVLP do you use?
@@villellacustomwoodworking2974 Fuji gold Q4 with a siphon cup.
Awesome video, i’m not sure if you’ve ever looked into hanging the doors, the HVLP in itself will save you time and material there’s no spitting. But would help me the most is the fact I’ve changed over to hanging my doors up, I get the job done in a quarter of the time you don’t have to flip the doors over you can spray Front back and all the edges in a single coat it saves a lot of labor/time
I use sherwood hi build pre cat lacquer, you could be the worst at spraying and get a factory finish off that stuff, extremely forgiving and super hard and beautiful finish
Thanks Chad! I’ll have to look into that
I love the Emerald too but the Renner. Far superior. Did my kitchen with 851 2K Renner. Amazing results. Save the SW for doors and trim
I'm with you Rick! Renner is in its own class
I recommend using Prep Right Pro Block primer , for everything that needs primed . If the tack isn’t going away with the acrylic Pro Classic trim paint , you are applying too much at once and/ or doing multiple coats before they have had time to dry . It sounds like you are trying to get finished results in 1 coat , that’s why your oil based Ben Moore Satin Impervo is running on you .
Always prime raw wood or patch . Always 2 coat , medium- light applications , allow proper dry time !!
Satin impervo is the best of the best finish , but the most challenging to perfect - risk / reward !!
Acrylic pro classic is 2nd best , and quite easy to use , but the main problem people have with it is running due to over application .
And don’t forget to use penetrol or flotral as needed . 😉
I'll have to check out that primer. Thanks for the info.
I would recommend a solvent based primer like oil, shellac, vinyl sealer. Renner 1321 has a very smooth finish but I don’t use the hardener due to the hazard unless you hav a spray booth. Still be very careful with the waterbased products they are just as dangerous or more dangerous than solvent based. And look into a smaller tip, tritech makes a 306, 206 tips but you will have to get the new tip guard. Airless is the best finish for all around finishing except gloss. And I saw that you primed your sprayer with the tip in, if you want the tips to last longer I leave the tip and guard off until the system is primed. And I leave my gun and tips in a gallon of paint thinner soaking. And you’ll never have issues with dried paint in the gun or tips.
Do you have any specific product or brand recommendations? What have been your results without the hardener? You like airless over HVLP. I did start using a 306 tip. I had never heard of tritech until recently. Someone else mentioned them as well. I do need to get better about keeping the tip and guard off. Do you run paint thinner through your system before shutting down? Right now I use mineral spirits to run through before shutting down and I soak my bits and guards in paint thinner.
@@villellacustomwoodworking2974 i used to use kilz original and benajmin moore advance for everything but the durability of the advance is not very good. so im testing some renner products right now. i dont think ill use the hardner due to the hazard, its not worth it to me. fine paints of europe eco satin, their oil primer or their hollandlac satin is probabily is what im going to start using. its long dry times but its a tradional finish im used too. i run lacquer thinner through the pump and gun then paint thinner and leave it in the machine.
@@villellacustomwoodworking2974 get the tip saver for your tips. Paint life tv has it on his channel. It paid for itself for me in one day
@@HovYoung I've been considering getting that. Thanks
Liked and subscribed.
Nice to see fellow craftsman putting themselves out there. I might join the movement one of these days/yrs lol
Thanks!! I’ve learned so much from others willing to invest the time and energy to share. Hopefully I can help others along the way
@@villellacustomwoodworking2974 if you invest into hvlp, kem aqua will be your new best friend. I've been using it for the last year at the recomendation of a fellow cabinet maker in my town. I recently bought a graco handheld ultimate airless for experimenting with other coatings. But KA is my go to for cabinet work.
@@frontlinefinishcarpentry4193 I’ve been using Reneer and I love it. I got factory results from my graco. It is hard to know what to do. I have people that swear by airless, others hvlp...some swear by titan, others graco and I’ve seen a lot of finishers recommend tritech...so many options...lol
@@villellacustomwoodworking2974 I lucked out and bought a nice graco 4900 5 stage hvlp from a commercial painter about 10 yrs ago for $250. I've since upgraded the gun but the turbine runs like a top. I'm on my 2nd graco handheld airless, this one is repairable, 1st one was a truecoat and wore out pretty quick. Painting is still a learning process for me. Buying a big inflatable paint booth was a game changer, my cabinetry comes out spectacular now, no more stressing over bugs and dry times.
@@frontlinefinishcarpentry4193 I’ve been looking at the paint line spray booth...which one do you have?
I subscribed. Great detailed video brother.
Thanks so much. I’m glad you found it helpful. Eric Reason has great content too. And Tri tech sprayers have been recommended by several people
My question is why is the emerald so runny i feel Sherman Williams paint likes to go on dry spray. I paint cars first then house stuff. So obviously I like super smooth. I used to use ppg trim paint i could almost hold there alot longer and not get a run hole house now switching to Sherwin Williams i am getting alot of runs. I dont understand why it can hang more. Or open to suggestions for help
Still using the older 395 it's basically the same thing but newer is better if you get the quick swap pump setup
Thanks for the feedback. Is my 395 the older model?
Just a heads up. Those yellow stands are garbage. The leave marks on your painted surface. I had used them on primer that had dried over night and when I flipped it over found 4 marks. Lucky it was only the primer and not the paint.
Couldn’t agree more. I never use them anymore. When I bought them I recall people dating they didn’t care about the marks because they’re on the backside and their so small but after using them I couldn’t disagree more.
Great vid. I recently used emerald for a bathroom vanity in a dark gray color. I let it dry for 24hrs and then wrapped the doors with a clean drop to transport and the drop stuck to the doors in several locations and even made little marks in the paint resembling the drop. Any advice on that?
Hi Daniel…thanks for watching. My experience with emerald is the same. It still has a slight tack to it and is vulnerable to marking. I know finishers that have used hvlp with the emerald and it still has a slight tack. Which is why I switched products. I have another video out about Reneer. It is a superior product. Dries extremely hard. I switched to it after I made that video. It is a higher price point but we’ll worth it. Also check out Eric Reason. He has lots of great content. With regards to fixing the doors you might have to refinish them. Check out paintlife tv. They should have a video about that. Hope this helps!
I know it’s a little bit of a late reply, but it may help in the future anyways. I actually wrap my doors individually in wax paper. This stops them from sticking to each other, and helps keep them stay clean while transporting.
It's trim paint! Use pre catalyzed lacquer, post cat, or conversion varnish. You are doing these cabinets like a house painter, not a finish shop
I’ve switched to Renner
What spray tip do you use for the finish also do you use the same spray and tip for the primer???
In that video I believe it was a .308 FFLP but then I went to a .208 or .206 FFLP. I’m getting ready to switch over to a tri tech sprayer. And now I use Renner paint. I did use the same tip for the primer. Primer was premium wall and wood primer.
What is exactly the tack, when spraying
The tack I would experience is especially noticeable on horizontal surfaces. If you set an item on a shelf for example it will ‘stick’ when you go to lift the item off. I use Renner now and have no issues with tack anymore. I have a video on Renner if you haven’t checked it out and Eric Reason has a lot of info on the product
@@villellacustomwoodworking2974 I had this same issue when using SW all surface enamel on a cabinet project about 10 yrs ago. Items stuck to the shelf for a few yrs, I think it was because I thinned it for hvlp... but not entirely sure.
Susceibed! What pressure are you at?
I do test sprays to set the pressure. I adjust the pressure until the spray fans out on the edges.
Have you tried a Tritech airless sprayer? Great pressure control and bulletproof units. Much better finish than HVLP. If you'd like....contact me I can tell you more
Hi Glenn!! I have not but several others have highly recommended their units. Thanks for being willing to chat about the units. I wish I would have known about them before I bought mine. They will definitely be on my list when I buy another unit.
Which TriTech did you go with? I’m having trouble deciding.
Do you put clear after painting?
Hi Jamie...I don’t. I started using a new product. Renner wood coatings. I highly recommend it
What’s “tac”? You said you couldn’t get the tac to go away.
It will stick. So for example if you took two shelves and stacked them together they will stick together. You can get them apart but not easily. I’ve started using Reneer and I’ve heard great feedback regarding centurion products. Eric reason has great content on all these products.
@@villellacustomwoodworking2974 I see. That’s very frustrating. Does the finish go hard?
What tip do you use with the urethane??
310 FFLP...link in video description. I use a 308 FFLP tip now
@@brentvillella5019 I just did a bunch of shelves with the urethane and the specs on it said it needed a minimum .013. I think your finish looked great. That’s why I asked.
@@bigbob9702 how did they turn out? Yeah I’m not sure why they recommend that size tip but I haven’t had any issue with as small as a 308.
@@villellacustomwoodworking2974 they turned out fine. The urethane is all I use. But I sprayed with a 315. I’ll have to experiment with the 310.
@@bigbob9702 Have any of you experienced issues with micro bubbling using the emerald urethane and 310 fflp? I
I absolutely love Emerald paint. Been using it since it came out. What sheen do you use on cabinets ?
Hi Lou...satin sheen. Emerald is my favorite of the SW line. A couple people have mentioned Kem Aqua. You might want to give that a look. I also have started using Renner Wood Coatings. I am not a professional finisher but in my experience Renner is a much better product than Emerald Urethane. I have a video on Renner with more detail. Just be careful with the fumes. They are very strong and from what others have shared with me can be dangerous to your health so if you do try it take the necessary precautions.
I use kem aqua. It's very thin and works perfectly in an hvlp system straight out of the pot.
I'm recently experimenting with BM advance and SW emerald urethane.
Do you find it has an orange peel finish when you are done spraying? It settles quite well, but I can’t get it to settle out completely.
I have not had an issue with that. I'm not enough of an expert on spraying/finishing, but you might be moving too slow when spraying. I recently started using Renner products. I have a video on them but to summarize their product is far superior to Sherwinn or Benjamin Moore.
@@brentvillella5019 Thanks for your comments. I have tried many different tests with tips, pressure, distance, speed, and even some thinning. Will keep at it. I don’t think I can get Renner products here, but I would love to try them.
@@ccox7072 have you tried paint life tv? They are a great resource! I wish I knew more to give you better assistance but I’m still learning myself
@@villellacustomwoodworking2974 Yes, I love paint life, it is a wonderful resource for sure. I saw him spray a mantle or something with a 311 tip and an airless sprayer in a video. He used the Emerald Trim Enamel. I have not sprayed a ton, but I have done a kitchen before with a different product. I will figure it out. Thanks a lot for your efforts.
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