GM Passkey Passlock VATS Bypass
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- PLEASE CLICK THE "SHOW MORE" BELOW AND SPEND A MINUTE READING THRU THIS - IT MAY HELP YOU MORE THAN THE VIDEO. THANKS!
This video shows how to bypass the anti-theft circuit on a 2007 Chevy Silverado (Classic) 2500HD Diesel. This probably should work for any full size 2003-2007 (classic) GM truck or 2003-2006 SUV. My guess is that even the smaller trucks and SUV's with this type of steering column will also be the same.
For information I have found on the different types of GM systems and relearn procedures please download this pdf: drive.google.c...
You will need to remove the dash trim (snaps out - careful that you pull enough just to get it snapped away from the cluster and not crack or break the dash trim), knee panel (7mm screws at the bottom of the panel and snap/guides at the top) below the steering wheel and the metal wiring cover (10mm nuts) under the steering shaft.
Find the yellow and black small gauge wires coming from the top of the key cylinder that are bundled in with 7 larger gauge wires and three other smaller gauge wires at the bottom side of the steering column - these are in there own bundle. There is another bundle for the clock spring that runs with this bundle - DO NOT GET INTO THAT HARNESS as it contains all your steering wheel controls (if applicable) and your air bag. Cut the yellow wire and strip a section of the black wire to get a meter on. Strip both ends of the yellow wire. Put the black lead on the black wire and the red lead on the yellow wire going up to the key cylinder. Insert your key into the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position (do not start the vehicle - will only run for a second or so even if you do). Set your meter to ohms and get that reading. Go to radio shack and by resistor(s) that will match the resistance you read on the meter. Install the resistor(s) across the black and yellow wire going back into the vehicles I/BCM or ignition/body control module. Using a solder gun for this is best. Heat shrink or tape and secure the resistor(s) and yellow wire going back up to the key cylinder. You should be able to start your vehicle now using your remote start or any $3 cut key from Home Depot or other hardware store.
This bypass could also solve a GM vehicle mysteriously not starting or dying on occasion. I have a 2002 Suburban that would start and run for just a second and then cut off and it turned out the anti-theft circuit was failing and causing the problem. Once I installed this type of bypass, never had the issue again.
Feel free to post comments or suggestions and if you have any questions I will do my best to answer them.
UPDATE:
Since I posted this video, I have had several questions from people swapping steering columns; engines; PCM's; BCM's etc. and felt like I should add some more information here since I know I am not the fastest in responding to questions here and most of you out there want to get your vehicle going faster than my response in most cases!
Let me try to briefly explain how the VATS system works: When you insert the key into the ignition and turn it to on/start it sends a voltage/resistance signal to a BCM (Body Control Module) and the BCM tells the PCM (Power Control Module or often also referred to as the ECU ECM PCU Computer) to start the engine. If the BCM gets the incorrect signal from the ignition, it sends a message to the PCM to shut off the injectors. In some cases it will also shut off the fuel pump. So in most cases, that circuit between the ignition and BCM is breaking down at the ignition hall sensor and causing the BCM to send a message to shut the vehicle down. In a lot of cases you may only have to do a relearn procedure. You can download this in the link in the paragraph above.
So if you are doing any swapping (ie PCM's; BCM's; steering columns or other parts in the anti theft system) everything will have to match up. As an example - if you swap in a 6.6L Duramax for that gas guzzling 8.1L, you would use the PCM from the 6.6L but probably want to keep the BCM and ignition you have. The old BCM and ignition wont match what is in the 6.6L's PCM so you would need to do a relearn or have the ignition and BCM from the 6.6L doner vehicle. Three key components have to be on the same page: Ignition "Hall Sensor", BCM and the PCM. The relearn procedure should put all of these on the same page if you have no failing components.
And here is my disclaimer:
I hold no liability or responsibility in the information provided here or in the video. I am posting this information as guidance for people that are having issues installing remote starting systems or GM vehicles not starting or dying for no reason. If you use this information to bypass your vehicles anti-theft system it will do exactly as it says - bypasses built in anti-theft protection. Do this at your own risk and discretion.
Anyone that has trouble starting the first couple tries but then runs normal or will start back up without problems if it was just turned off (specifically 4.3 or 5.7) may have a bad fuel regulator. Fought with a few vehicles for years before I came across the solution thanks to a very knowledgeable parts salesman. Have heard of these security problems but haven't encountered one myself, knock on wood.
Great video, actually showing the wires clearly. Thank you.
Mr Chris, it's a funny thing....the new ignition switch that was bought, failed ohms testing. Got a new one and everything worked out well. Thanks for your guidance and help. I greatly appreciated the response back. May you and your family have a blessed night.
I figured it had to be up from where you jumped it. Your welcome and you and yours have a blessed evening as well!
This video is so helpful.. I have this problem with my 2002 1500 Silverado.. This was a great help.. I'll get back as soon as I do this and see if it passes the VATS.
Also try the relearn procedure as well if you haven't already dug into it.
been hitting my head against the wall for a year already and i think you just save my day. thanks a lot Chris Bowling. Just need to find a resistor now.
Lmm.. lol
If the resistor trick doesn't work due to other Passlock problems, you can get an inexpensive mailorder tune to delete Passlock from your PCM, and can get Passlock signal spoofing modules from folks like Baker Electronix which send the enable signal normally sent by your BCM to the PCM.
Resistor is cheaper than module is cheaper than tune. I've been researching Passlock all evening to determine how best to exterminate it from my K1500.
it drove me drove Me Badd couldn't figure it out couldn't figure it out thanks to you guys out there you my car runs again
Ten Second BuickGN sorry for the late response. Been a busy holiday season for me this year. Generally if the vehicle starts for a second or so and idles fine during that time it is VATS. From what I know and have experienced the only time it is a fuel pump or other fuel related issue is if it will not run at all. For whatever reason GM lets the vehicle start before it checks the key. If the key passes it runs if it does not match what is registered, it shuts back off.
Chris... Greetings once again.. Here what I found out.. I can rebuild an engine but cannot figure out a meter.. so this is what I did.. I had a cheap meter with a needle as a gauge. I had it set on RX1k and it read 3... when I set it at RX10 it reads 40. when I borrowed a friends digital meter like yours in the vid.. it was set at min.. and I got a reading of 14.08 so I purchased a 15ohm meter and did as your vid suggest and the truck would not start.. when I reconnected the yellow wire back together it still would not start it would crank over but not start.. I had to wait for at least 10 min before it would start.. ONE Thing I have to mention is in your video you said to connect to meter then turn the key to the on position.. I did not get any readings.. the digital meter stayed at zero.. I had to Turn the key as if I was starting the truck the let go of the key then I got a reading on the meter of the 14.08.. Hope this helps in some way as to what the heck is going on with the truck.. P.S.. if you live near the state of PA. I would gladly get the truck to you.. KIDDING>. waiting on your response.. Thanks again Myron
If you feel like shipping it out to the Hill Country in Texas! I figured the meter was not speaking to you correctly...lol. OK, so what your old needle meter is telling you is that you need about 400 ohms. That sounds more like it. Regardless of what it is reading - lets do this: Put 400 ohms (I think 15 ohms is out of range and will not work) across the uncut black wire and the yellow wire heading back towards the BCM (under the steering column). Give it a shot and see if it starts. If it does not.... perform this re-learn procedure: 1. Insert your key into the ignition switch. 2. Turn to the “On” position without starting the engine. The security light should illuminate and stay on. 3. Wait approximately 10 minutes or until the security light turns off. 4. Turn off the ignition switch and wait 5 seconds. 5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times with the same key. 6. Turn the ignition off. The vehicle will now learn the 400 ohms you put in on the next start cycle. 7. Start the vehicle. If vehicle starts and runs normally, and security light is off, the relearn is complete. Let me know!
Here are some of the Resistor Values for the Ignition Key Security problem. I copied this from another user on TH-cam and only provide it so you have a reference. Combining resistors to get the approximate value will work as well. Seems that the values are not exact and a 10 % tolerance is probably OK.. Good Luck. Getting a cheap breakout board will simplify the whole process.
These are in ohms. 402, 523, 681, 887, 1130, 1470, 1870 , 2310, 3010, 3740, 4750, 6040,7500, 9350, 11801.
Thanks for the input!
Harry Jones mine was 1238ohms, connected a 1kohm and 2x 100 ohm resistors (1amp, tried 1/4amp but they didn't work for me) in a line and used that. works good after a relearn
This is brilliant! Thank you so much, my GMC Sierra will be fixed yet!
will this work on a 1998 gmc sierra 4.3 liter
Hey Chris …thank you so much… for this video …I got mine to start …but now I know how to find the correct resistor to install …well done….👏👏👏 abs/pops👨🏼🦳
Worked great. Thanks for your video. 02 Pontiac Grand Am
I have a 2002 pontiac grand prix se and it has Pass Key iii. Im guessing this method you showed should work on it too.
Thanks Chris, that's good info to keep in mind
Hey Chris.. well I took the thermostat out of the my truck and put 2 gal for anti freeze in it.. .. ran a couple more ground wires from the body and engine back to the battery,, started the truck and it ran for about an hour. so I ran into my house to check on my elderly parent and when i came back out the truck was off.. it started back up fine and when I ran back into the house to check on my elderly parent once again and came out it was off.. both times though it did restart and ran fine. I had the fuel pressure test ready and started the truck.. and stayed with it. and it never shut down.. the pressure was 49lbs.. and never moved.. however the truck went into a "reduced engine power".. of course no power just misses really bad.. I checked the pressure and it was at 49lbs.. when I shut the truck down and just turned the key to the on position you can hear the throttle body click.. and a "HISS" around the fuel line on the left side of the engine. I checked the pressure. it was zero.. I shut the the key off and turned it to the on position a few times. you can hear the fuel pump kick on. and the hiss and click from the throttle body and the pressure said zero.. BUT when I started the truck the pressure was 49lbs.. it was right back in the "reduced engine power" mode.. I shut it down. waited about 10 to 15 min and the truck ran fine.. for about 20 min then went into that mode again.. I can some how get that figured out it should run fine.. the manual says its a over heating problem.. but with a new water pump. no thermostat. new engine temp sensor how can that be possible. UGH>. thanks again Myron
Scratching my head... Anytime you turn the ignition to on it should pump up fuel to the rails, so not really understanding why you didn't have any pressure those few times. If the motor is going into reduced power mode, it should be throwing codes - what codes do you have in the system? Really need to know what codes you are getting to see what the computer is doing/diagnosing/etc. Also - you say you started the truck back up into reduced power mode and you had a steady 49lbs or was that a brief observation? If it is not overheating and going into protect mode, it seems like air getting into the fuel line somehow? Have you had the tank and pump assembly out and looked inside the tank to make sure nothing weird is going on there? In theory, i don't really see how that could happen though unless you are running on empty. I am pretty stumped - you only need fuel, crank, injectors enabled and air to make that motor run... It sounds like the computer is seeing something to safeguard the engine, so put a good scanner on it or find someone that has one. Or run to the parts store and at least get them to perform a basic scan.
Chris Bowling the 49 lbs was not brief.. it was a constant pressure both when it ran normally or in Reduced power mode.. the only thing I noticed different is the truck kept running .. usually it goes into a R P M mode then dies.. and you cannot restart it.. but now it will restart and stay in R P M unless I let it set and cool down some.. then it will run fine.. someone told me that the TBI valve is locked in R P M.. and to disconnect it.. but that is getting into some stuff I am not aware of...
M Jones I am not aware of a TBI valve either - your truck does not have throttle body injection if that is what he is what TBI is referring to. These trucks have single port injection or SPI. Gotta have some codes to go any further.
Here is a write up on protect mode:
Should be setting DTC P1258 Engine Coolant Overtemperature - Protection Mode Active
Circuit Description
In order to reduce the engine temperature the PCM has the ability to disable a number of fuel injectors during an engine over temperature condition. The PCM considers the engine over temperature whenever the ECT reaches a predetermined temperature. This DTC sets in order to show that the PCM detected an over temperature condition and that the system engaged the protection mode.
Conditions for Running the DTC
DTCs P0117, P0118, P0125 are not set.
The engine is running.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
The engine coolant temperature is greater than 132°C (270°F).
The above conditions present for greater than 10.0 seconds.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the PCM stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the PCM records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The PCM writes the conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The PCM turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.
Diagnostic Aids
Important
If an overheating condition exists, repair the overheat condition and change the engine oil and filter.
Using the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If you cannot duplicate the DTC, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can help determine how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also help determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate the vehicle within the same freeze frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that you observed. This will isolate when the DTC failed. For an intermittent condition, refer to Symptoms
Chris Bowling HOLY CRAP.. I will follow through the info you sent and get back to you on what I can find out.. Thanks again for all the info.
Hey Chris..
I have been tinkering with my truck and discovered that when I pulled the connection from the temp sensor/ sending unit from the block. the engine picked up in rpm's and then quickly shut down. It would restart but in the reduced engine power mode..
until I plugged the wire back in.. then it ran fine. but after a short time. no matter what I did the engine stayed in the reduced power mode and eventually would shut down then when tried to restart. it did nothing other than the lights and radio would come on. but would not turn over.. I did talk to auto zone they said if I can get it to them they will test it to see if it is sensing the engine is hot when it is not. .
is there any way to bypass that? so the engine thinks its cold? just so i can drive it to auto zone? I did connect an extra temp sensor to the wire but it ran just the same as if I had it connected to the engine. thanks again..
My 08 Pontiac G6 GT wouldnt start, only a click when i would try. Anti-Theft logo stayed on, Starter was tested...good....Key reprogrammed..good....if you are having this same problem it may be your battery. Turns out thats all mine was, wasnt pushing enough volts to re-arm the security system therefore it was staying on. put a different battery in from my truck and the logo went off and started right away. Purchased a new one and no problems. Hopefully this helped anyone having this issue. Start with the small stuff and work your way up :)
Good to hear your problem is solved. Yes, normally when all your getting is a clicking trying to start, the first suspect would be the battery, then the starter.
thanks Chris, that was great help. its definitely been replaced before.
The resister is not in the key on these vehicles, its a sensor in the cylinder housing that goes bad. theres a small magnet in the cylinder that when turned makes contact with the sensor in the cylinder housing. Sometimes the sensor can be recalibrated by reflashing the theft deterrent system via the gm SPS software. Otherwise the housing has to be replaced that contains the sensor and then the system relearned. I've repaired many of these over the last 15 years being that I'm a automotive locksmith..
Chris Howard Thanks, I realize that I mis-spoke in the video and that is why I put in caps "PLEASE CLICK THE "SHOW MORE" BELOW AND SPEND A MINUTE READING THRU THIS - IT MAY HELP YOU MORE THAN THE VIDEO. THANKS!" on the first sentence of the description for clarification. And just FYI - you don't need GM Software to relearn the sensor there is a link to a procedure in my write up that tells you how you can do it without.
Measure key resistance easier it has resister built in and completes the circuit. 5v return and ground... Simple pcm looks for .8-4.6 on return is all
This does not apply for keys with resistors. Keys with resistors is a different system than what is being explained in the video.
Hey Chris Bowling I have a 99 chevy Silverado , Tried the bypass however I'm not sure the wires to use I have a red/white,Yellow and orange black from the passlock sensor. The yellow is passlock signal sensor input,the red wht is 12 v ref and the orn black is the sensor ground, the truck starts for 2 seconds and shuts off security does not display nor does my 4x4 or service engine soon lights (think its a faulty instrument cluster) not sure if the security light not working also effects the vats system I have 2 different wire diagrams because the 99 (late year) is when they initially changed body styles one diagram shows it does indeed affect it the other shows it does not however the wires for the one that says that it is affected for the security lamp do not exist in the cluster wiring. This is ultra annoying.
+John Vanderbossche Sorry about the delayed response - were you able to figure it out? I don't recall the IP light having to work for VATS to pass and send a "start and run" command to the PCM, but I have been wrong before. At any rate, I think you should be using the orange black and yellow if you haven't figured it out already.
John Vanderbossche
John Va nderbossche
O2 escalade stuck in thift mode lights blinking horn going off nothing when I turn it over
I have a 2004 gmc Sierra
At first I thought it was the VATS but it doesn't crank at all
I could really use it help
Joe Chavez No crank is generally something else unless there is an aftermarket alarm system in it. There is a crank fuse you could check - just look at your fuse directory, but unless you already have an aftermarket alarm I am not aware of factory alarm in an '04 that disables the crank.
I have a 99 buick regal gs I've had multiple problems with the vats and tried everything I can online to fix and still can't get the car to run
How did you set up a relay for the remote start with that resistor bypass ... Did you ever get around to making that video? Or maybe a write up how to
I got a Chevy Express 07 I changed the steering column, now the security light is blinking so it's start for 2 sec and stop.
So just to be clear.....cut the black, put resistor in line, connect vehicle side of the yellow to vehicle side of Black?
Lol, I'm going to have to go back and watch my own video for a refresher course... It's been a long time since I did one like this. Let me review and I'll confirm
Do not cut the black. Cut the yellow. Just strip some of the insulation of the black and put the resistor on the black and to the yellow going back into the dash. Tape up the yellow going up to the hall sensor in the key cylinder
Chris Bowling got it, thanks for making the video and replying even after all this time 🤣👍🏼. Happy Holidays.
I tried this on my 06 express, the security light is solid. I even got the pcm tuned to disable vats. Still can't get it to start. It cranks, but no start . The security light just solid. tried to relearn so many times, the security light wont shut off. The ignition switch is the only thing I replaced. Please help!
I believe our Bonneville needed a switch. Would enable the anti theft system. 2001 3800. I tried the resistor soldered in. I waited over and over. Someone ended up with a $200 car with hacked dash. Lol
1993 gmc vandura cranks got spark but anti theft is blinking
I tore my ignition out because it locked up how do I bypass my anti theft without a key
i have a 2002 suburban, it has the orange with black strip wire, no black wire, i got resistance at yellow wire coming out under dash at 480
That is correct the 2002 will have an orange black instead of a black.
Chris Bowling yes but i don't know why i dont have any resistance, there were two yellow wires one back to plug and one to fuse box, but no reading on wire going to ignition
i have a 95 Camaro V6 3.4 im having the same problem what could it be the computer my security system is flashing wen i turn the key over i did everything it said to do in the owners manual still got nothing i got lights and radio
Not sure if you're still checking this thread but I want to thank you for the effort to make this video. It helped me to bypass my 2001 Astro van except the black wire in the Astro is orange with black stripe. One thing - the Security continues to say on and flash, is this normal?
+GoodOlJoe Yes, 2002 and prior are yellow and orange/black. I'm not sure about it staying on though. Did you try a re-learn on it yet.
Chris.. here is an update since I worked on the truck about 4 hours ago... I seen a few places where folks on the web say it might be a ground problem so I cleaned the ground on my fire wall and ran a new ground from the engine itself to the neg. on the battery.. I started the truck went in the house I came out 20 min later and the truck was NOT running.. with the key on that long and not running it does the same as if it was running.. I went to restart and NOTHING.. just all the lights and gauges work but does not turn over.. the low fuel light was on.. so I disconnected the battery and went to get gas.. (about 30 min lapsed.) I reconnected the battery and went to start.. and still nothing.. lights and gauges and all register but nothing else.. as I mentioned the indicator for which gear I am in. is NOT on.. and until that comes on.. it will not turn over... if you turn the key on, off, on off,,, you can hear clicking from the throttle body.. but that is all.. no fuel pump kicking in.. nothing.. UGH>>>>>>>>> I am about to have it shipped to you.. KIDDING>. waiting on your thoughts Myron
Wow - OK, if you did the re-learn and wiring correctly I am fairly certain it is not VATS. I have gone back thru and re-read your posts and I have to say I really think you have an overheating issue and possibly a fuel pump issue. The PCM looks at the temperature of the vehicle and if it gets to a certain temp, the vehicle enters into a safe mode to protect the engine. It will run like it is severely under powered, although I am not certain how long the PCM will leet it run that way. I assume the thought is to allow you to basically get off the road, stop and shut down the vehicle. I also bet that there is a critical mode temp it will go into where it shuts off the fuel. The way you describe that on cooler days it runs longer makes me think you have a problem with cooling. And the downtime between restarting the vehicle seems to also be varying with temperature. Do you have any codes in the system? Also could be a sign of the fuel pump going bad. Do you have a gauge you can put on the fuel rail and see what it is while it is running? You should never be less than 50lbs I think. Check the codes and the fuel pressure and lets see what you have.
Chris Bowling Greetings again.. first off I want to thank you for sticking with me on this HUGE headache. you mentioned it may be a heating problem and the book with the vehicle says when the engine power mode is on. the vehicle would be over heating.. so about a year ago I replaced the water pump.. thermostat,, and sending unit for the heat.. my temp gauge runs at normal.. and as you mentioned.. yes it does go into an idol mode you can step on the gas and nothing happens other than it boggs down and begins to miss really bad.. once you let off the gas.. it idles smoothly.. So I am not sure how it can still be over heating... I will see if I can test the fuel pressure.. I think I am going to just dive in and change the fuel pump anyways.. because when the vehicle does shut down.. you can turn the truck on but the fuel pump takes a moment or two before it kicks on.. since it is Cold up here and snow in the morn.. unlike your warm part of the country.. It will take me a few days to get that done.. but if you can think of anything else to try in the meantime.. drop me a line and I will check it out.. thanks again...
Did you get the air out of the cooling system properly throughout? What I mean by that - if you leave a good amount of air in the the system, that gauge may say one thing with air and another when the coolant gets on it. It is not uncommon after a water pump changed for this to happen. What happens in most cases is after you get the pump back on and fill the reserve tank it takes a pretty good amount of time to fully circulate all the air out of the system. So most of us (including me) in a hurry to get back on the road do not get it fully bled of air and full of coolant.
A few thoughts for you:
1. The engine protect mode will idle normally - it only cuts the odd or even cylinders when it sees throttle - so that sounds like what yours is doing
2. Get someone to put a scanner on it and get all the codes out of it - if you have a good one you will be able to get the ones Autozone or the likes do not normally get.
3. If you get a gauge on the fuel rail, you will want to get it started, watch it and hopefully you will see it fluctuating and that is a sign of a pump going bad. At idle it should stay at a steady pressure at or above 50lbs
Chris Bowling Chris.. you mentioned about getting the air out of the cooling system?? if it does it by itself after running? the truck has about a few hours of run time on it since I put the water pump on it.. is there a certain way to bleed the air on the newer vehicles?? I am writing because I mentioned the other day I had the truck run for 3 hours and it was cold out.. and 2 days ago it was above 50 and the truck ran 15 min.. today it is 26 out.. and it ran for an hour.. I didnt wait for it to shut down again. I just shut it off.. BECAUSE...... I watch the temp gauge and it was at 185 for the first 45 min of idle. then I ran the rpms up to 2000, and the gauge jumped to 195 it jumped like a second hand on a clock. so I ran it up to 3000 rpms and it jumped again to 210 degrees. after that I shut it down.. I did have the cluster replaced two years ago on a recall because the speedometer was not working and since then my gas gauge is off. I told GM this and they said its in my tank. .but I had no problem before they got there hands on it.. so I just keep the tank above half. also.a friend stopped by and had to remind me that last year when tinkering with it. he noticed the top hose on the radiator extremely hot and the bottom really cold.. the radiator was the same way.. I did run water through it and it seems to come out the same amount although this does not mean it is going through the cooling ports. I am going to pull the thermostat on our next warm day.. and if this all fails I am going to drive the truck to your place. it will take me a good 3 months since I can only drive it 100 feet at a time. but I will pack a huge lunch.. LOL. Your thoughts? thanks again
Ok I need advice please! I have a 2005 Chevy Suburban that at first won't start after replacing the fuel pump and ignition sensor it will start but won't stay running. So we put on a new ignition switch and it still won't stay running. We final realized that every time we barely touch the steering wheel the car is shutting off. So now we think it's in the security system we did try to bypass it at the key ignition area. But bypassing it there didn't help. My question is try what you have in this video something you would recommend or is there another place we should try to disarm the system.
how to get past the anti-security theft system system on a Nissan Murano
Thank you so much I've been trying to figure out how to bypass the security system for three days now and I finally found your video I'm trying to install a car alarm remote starter smart push button on 2004 Chevy Trailblazer and I also I am not sure where a green wire goes two from the alarm system to the harness of my vehicle the name of the wire is called oil pet detection and it keeps electricity after starting the positive is that positive electric cable of oil pet lock remote start engine so if you could tell me what that goes I would greatly appreciate it
If probably need to see your wiring diagram for whatever alarm you are using. It's been a while since I've put one in, and I didn't have anything like that
Thank you For respond
I have an 05 Chevy 1500 no security light no power to windows or head unit. Lights come on when key is turned on some gauges go on but others do not. Starts just like yours did then dies a second or two later. Only codes showing is an Evap for emissions. Any ideas?
ever figure it out? I know a guy that is having the exact same problem.
+Ob Fuscated Yes - I have used the Newrockies and it works fine and it includes the re-learn procedure. If I remember correctly I think it does pretty much the same thing. But yes, I think the best solution in my mind is to get it programmed out.
I have a 2009 g5 its has the security lights and won't rank,wha should I do?
Would love some more in depth help with passlock 2 I'm replacing my ignition and can't get the security light to stop flashing
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 that will start and then shut right off. It has an orange flashing security light on and beeps several times after it shuts off. We think it's a security issue but we're not positive.
Sounds like it. Did you read through my write up also? Some helpful information in there also.
I PUT A BYPASS PASSKEY WIRE FOR THE IGNITION SYSTEM ON MY 2002 GMC CANYON AND ITS STILL NOT START RIGHT SOMETIME I STILL HAVE TO SIT 20MIN UNTIL IT STARTS SO I NEED TO KNOW WHATS THE PROBLEM
Some one broke my immobilizer on the ignition switch on my ford lariat its a 2002 im on week 2 with out use i just want my truck running again help me
I forgot. also the Gear SHIFT indicators not working....
Mine is a Chevy venture and the key won't turn at all I thought I had to just replace the ignition switch but I did and it still won't turn over at all
+Brianna DoByns If it does not crank, that could be the starter. Cranking the motor is not part of most GM VATS's out there. I am not entirely familiar with the that vehicle - but I would venture to say (could help it) that it is something other than VATS.
+Brianna DoByns Aftermarket VATS will prohibit cranking, so if you have an aftermarket alarm, it could be a problem also.
whats happening is my anti theft sent code 1626 theft deterrent fuel enable signal lost /also i have no power going to my instrument cluster
Hey bro i have 2003 chevy express but the 3 wire its difrent color can u tell me which one its the black the lef or the right or which one its the middle wire
The only difference would be a orange black instead of black or v.v. The other colors are the same. You may be looking at the wrong group of wires
i have an regular key no black cover plain all chrome, and no truck will stay running if i put the yellow wire together..sometimes itll start and sometimes it wont i cant figure it out, because if the yellow wire is cut it shouldnt start but it does so now im lost
It probably has a bypass in it down by the BCM or somewhere. If the bypass is as old as the truck it may be getting close to tolerance limit because of connections or the resistor itself breaking down. Try searching around from the cut wire down to the BCM and see if you find a resistor or maybe even a bypass module. It may be taped up or have some heat shrink on it. If you find it, check the connections or replace it with the same value. If you don't find anything, make sure you don't have any of those wires or connections breaking down and look for the relearn procedure on google and do that. That may be all it needs.
Chris Bowling sorry to bother but it doesnt have anything i checked lastnight,i tried using a different bcm from another truck from same model with same type of motor it wouldnt start at all so i put original one back in it,it seems when it gets cold it doesnt want to start but when its warm out itll start like nothing but that could be me..i was wondering if i got an key with a chip in it would that work...and also what resistor would work, i cant get a proper reading as well..
Hey Chris I have a 2006 chevy colorado i5, recently got into an accident(wrecked my front end), air bags deployed, did all my own repairs,, now my passlock system is giving me problems,, it won't start at all, no crank at all,, the lock symbol stays on, doesn't blink,, any info ? In desperate need
sammyguereca Sorry for the late response - Did you figure it out? No crank is generally something else unless there is an aftermarket alarm system in it.
Hi chirs I got a 00 escalade and mine well do is works for days and out of no wear it well start then dye like in your video so ill leave it all day or few hours then it well work again I belive its my vats system security light does not flash your thoughts also on your video you put cut the yellow wire do I do the same for the black one then put the wire or just cut the yellow wire the just strip the black one like on video and then put the resister in
You do not cut the black wire. Your '00 may be different in wiring colors as they changed things in '03 and mine is '07. However, with you saying the security light does not flash - does it come on and stay on when you have this problem? If the security light is not coming on, you may be at end of life on your fuel pump. How many miles on the escalade? I have a '97 Z71 that has the same motor as yours and I have replaced the fuel pump twice.
Hi Cris, I did not measure ohms to bypass my security so this is good to understand that vehicles differ! PCM company said I locked up the PCM in my 2003 Silverado jamming it during the relearn procedure?! Also, some say the key has a chip and visa versa (does not)? I am finding that the crankshaft sensor may need a relearn as we replaced that and the camshaft sensor too (w/ plugs, gas lines/filter and soon will try the window switch.) When they send new PCM, I will take it to the dealer as my experiment is out of control. Any advice? Watched DYI's and you seem to have understanding. Thanks, I subscribed!
What make, model and year are we talking?
Oh, this pickup is a 2003 Silverado 5.3 liter extended cab base unit 1500. I like the idea of installing the Pro-Bypass from NEWROCKIES INC. that I found from your commenter (Thanks Bud). NewRockies states that I will still have to perform the "key relearn procedure" with new PCM even if the "By-pass" be installed. Although company just said it will not work on a PCM which does not recognize the vehicle or if PCM has errors!?
Autocomptechnologies is where I found my new PCM (programed to VIN#) and they say I must perform relearn procedure precisely. Should we bypass the security before PCM install to then relearn key? Thanks a thousand. Richie
I have a 1999 Cadillac devill that security has killed everything in the car no instrument cluster but the security light just keeps blinking
Not totally sure, but that sounds like maybe some.other issues. Does it have a resistor I the key?
@@ChrisBowling92769 yes
I have a 2001 Chevy venture van. Replaced ignition switch. Now security feature wont let it start. Any ideas?
I have a chev.suburban 1999 it is showing anti-theft symbol?in my ipc cluster ..it cranks but no start.can you help me my problem?
i have a 03 chevy silverado it is stuck in the alarm mode it wont even try to start if i try to start it it just shuts the headlight and dims all the light it wont even click to try to start need help
+Katie Hyde I am not sure that is anything to do with the factory alarm or VATS. That sounds more like a battery problem or loose connection at the battery.
I bought a 03 avalanche with the ignition busted out of it .it will start by turning the ignition but will die in a second or two .will this fix my truck
Paul Bassen I see you are replying in other comments - if you had asked me anything specific I probably did not see it - sorry about that. If I missed your question - can you reply here? Thanks, Chris
Chris Bowling i appreciate you taking the time out to do this vid. helps alot. i have a 06 h3 hummer that i just purchsed last year and it has been back in forth to the dealer every since i bought it last year. because it keeps stalling while im driving... And they have no idea why its doing it. they say. they told me my truck is in good shape no codes showing for my truck. This has been a headache to say the lease. But your video and alot of research i found out about the passlock anti theft security system shutting my truck off. Gm dealer always say that my truck dont stall on them only me. Smh rediculous. I am semi affraid to drive it. Very dangerous
Dorance West I had an '07 LTZ Avalanche 4X4 loaded to the max with the 6.0 liter engine that did the same thing. Mine would do it after driving long hauls and/or pulling a load. Had it to the dealer multiple times - they never figured it out. Tore the whole front of the motor down thinking it was something to do with cam positioning. It was so frustrating because I loved that truck - but I got rid of it. Couldn't figure it out and it left me stranded several times. Talk about dangerous - imagine pulling a RV down a hill and the motor dies with no power assist on the brakes or steering - its a wonder I didn't plow it off into someone or off in a ditch.
My story aside - I don't think that VATS will shut a vehicle down while driving. GM VATS to my knowledge only inhibits the vehicle at startup. It will however report a bad "password" if something isn't jiving once you take off. My suggestion to you is to re-learn the key(s) and see if that corrects it. Is the security light flashing when this happens?
First off thanks for responding. No the security light doesnt show at all when it stalls. The only light that shows is the brake light. which the dealership says is totally normal because the truck is going into a stop mode. I was like okay. But like you say it usually does it after i have had it on the highway for a long period of time. Well i just odered the New Rockies deal yesterday. A friend of mines said that he is for sure it will stop the problem. He said the Passlock for Gm vehicles is whats causing the truck to stall. he said the key constantly sends signals to the brain and if the brain doesnt recognize the signal it cuts off the fuel to the motor thinking someone is trying to steal the truck. So that has been the best solution thus far for me. Lol So my question to you is how do i reset the keys. Is there a video out for that???
Dorance West I have a link to a document in the description of my video you can download for the relearn procedure. You will have to do the same procedure after you install the New Rockies module. That module basically does what I do in this video. My only concern with your situation is that the security light does not come on. Makes me think crankshaft or camshaft position sensor possibly.
Chris Bowling Okay i will definitely look into the crank shaft and camshaft position sensor right now as we speak. I am looking for a solution Bad beacuse my wife love to drive the truck but right now i can't trust the truck in her hands untill i can figure this out.
Hey Chris,
Attempting to install a remote start in my 99 bonneville. I have all the wiring diagrams and got everything wired up and then when I went to use the remote start it would turn on the power (blower, lights, radio) but the car wouldn't crank. So, Im thinking VATS. I have the resistor in the key and getting the resistance reading tomorrow. Also, i know my antitheft wires are both white inside an orange tube. You side in your video that you were going to wire it up so it would only bypass the VATS when you used the remote start. I was just wondering how you ended up wiring your relay. Im not really familiar with relays
also i found this www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/newsite/pictures/pdfs/773%20STARTER%20KILL%20to%20IGNITION%20SWITCH%20HARNESS.pdf
but I dont know what the immobilizer output from the module would be, and what exactly "key side of starter" and "Underdash side of the starter" stupid question i know. Is it just where ever you make the cut the key side is above and vise versa.
Brian - this diagram is the relay that immobilizes your starter or disables the starter from cranking unless your alarm is in the "disarm" mode. In a remote start system, you will have an additional relay (which can be internal to your alarm system or external like the diagram you reference) that cranks the motor without a key. A few things have to happen for your vehicle to start - Ignition, crank, and fuel. So in most GM VATS the system only disables fuel. So my first thought is that the starter immobilizer relay or your crank output to the starter is not wired up correctly. You would need to meter the coil side of that relay (85 and 86) and/or the crank output to make sure it is changing state when you initiate a remote start.
+Chris Bowling I have a 2002 yukon denali it starts than dies. The security light flashes. It may need a fuel pump but I don't want to go to the Dealership. How did you bypass your 02 suburban? I looked at my wires there is five wires just like yours but there is no black wire expect a orange with a black stripe.
Same procedure just probably an orange/black instead of a black. Do the re-learn first and see if that will get you going.
I have a red/white,and Orange/black which one should I tie into the solid yellow.
What year/make? I would think the orange/black without knowing, but you should see the resistance change from open to a value between the yellow and correct wire.
Thank you very much god bless you
Hello Chris Bowling! I have a 2000 GM shuttle bus with the 7.4 liter 454. I’ve had it for years and it is doing what you posted. I checked fuse box and found security fuse blown. Checked to see if i had a VATS module under the dash and I did. Opened it up and a high temp resistor (W1840K) resistor was fried. Part number on my box was 16224975 and I was wondering if this bypass would completely get me away from purchasing another module. My security light stays on, but my wires are orange/black stripe, yellow and red/white stripe. I noticed you stated to orange with black stripe was ground and yellow was data. My security light stays on once I turn the key forward.
I noticed one gentleman stated he could spray starter fluid into his intake or throttle body and it would run. That doesn’t work in my case. It only ran the 1 to 2 second intervals as it did without me trying to spray into the throttle body. They let me to believe my injectors were being shut off. So I’m apparently in the stage of “long tamper mode” or something. My key looks like a large copy, but I called to see if they had the original and they didn’t. Not sure if I need a new cylinder as well before attempting your video. Any suggestions?
Thanks in Advance
Que Smith sorry I missed this. Have you had any luck? The key should not matter. If you have a VATS module, it may be different, but I'm thinking only the hardware. The concept or theory in that generation from 1996 up until all platforms went to GMT800 is very likely the same. It would be worth 30 minutes to try and relearn.
Chris Bowling I ordered another module and it works great now. It had a fried diode and after doing the relearn process, she started right up. Thank you for all you did to help with your video post.
I have a 2007 gmc sierra and when I put key to turn ignition the truck doesn't crank, but the gauges and light work. When I touch relay under the hood with a screw driver it cranks, but won't start. it is showing anti theft symbol, what do you think could be the problem?
Melissa Moore Is it a classic body style (1999-2007) or the newer GMT900 series 2007-2013? I don't know of any factory VATS that cuts out the cranking, but I am not certain on the GMT900 series. If it has an aftermarket alarm system that works with the factory alarm system, that could keep it from cranking. Also be sure and check the crank fuse. Almost all vehicles have a crank fuse. You will also have fuses in an aftermarket alarm system also - probably underneath the steering column if it is equipped. I think the security light will always come on when you first start cranking, so it could be something else other than VATS.
Wow problems with a 2007 already? The VATS still worked (when it wanted to) in my '91 until I lost the chip in the key and had to bypass it.
VinylToVideo This truck had no problems, just had to put that bypass in for a remote start/aftermarket alarm system to work correctly
hello, thanks for uploading your video. Is this a GM Pass-key III system or a 1 or 2? I think I've seen your video before.
If you expand the description, there is a tech doc that will explain the 2007'ish and older systems, but the truck in the video is a 2007 classic with PASSKEY 3. There is a PASSKEY 2+ that I believe adds a transponder in the head of the key - this truck does not have that.
04 SILVERADO: Everything works except the keyless entry. It just stopped working. I replace both fob batteries and reprogrammed - no luck. I cannot figure it out. The previous owner installed a autostart that worked with the factory keyless back when it was new, but has worked up till now. Any thoughts advice much appreciated!!
You've tried this: How to Program Keyless Remote for GM trucks and SUVs - FREE
people stop stressing with the security system just go to a performance shop tell them to deactivate it with a tune that's all y'all need
I have a 02 avalanche the truck has been sitting and when I put in the battery and tried to crank it started for .2 seconds and shut off. won't stay running any longer the security light is on and there is a after market remote start too
Michael Godfrey this is what you need to do except I think instead of a black wire yours will be orange/black
Chris Bowling I'll try this when I get home thanks
Will that work on a truck with out remote start
Just put a steering wheel column in and my truck doing the same thing starts then cuts off I have a 2006 tahoe
Relearn it. Look in the comments and I think there is a link to a document, but basically 3 10 minute cycles of ignition on/off motor off, on the last cycle it should start.
I am having lots of problems hith my 2000 chevy astro an avrage 3 times a week it wan't start security blinks (I turn th ignition to acc and wait 10 min till it stops blinking than it will start up) How can i bypass it there are no resistor on the key ) Thanks
I have a 2002 duramax and I want to run a toggle switch for my acc on and a push button for my ignition. I do not need a special oem key to start my pickup so would I still need to bypass the VATS in order to run my custom ignition setup? my plan is to tap into the ignition wires so that I can run push button ignition along with the option to use my key. thanks!
Not sure I fully understand - do you mean an ignition toggle and a push button start? ACC is a different position in the tumbler that only runs accessories and not the motor. Either way, yes you would have to do this since your key will not be turning passed the hall sensor that sends the "OK" to run to the PCM.
Got gmc envoy slt 2003 I have problems a security lock it won’t crank
I tried this, but I get no reading with the ohm meter, it stays solid at 1, which means no continuity to that wire in guessing. I replaced the fuel pump and filter, and then got the security light. it starts and shuts right off, and I'm frustrated as hell.
It sounds like the hall sensor has failed. Do this and put about 1kOHMs in there and re-learn - should do the trick
I have 2006 chevrolet silverado I'm replace the ignition cylinder but the security light is flashing and my truck don't start!!
You probably need to relearn the new cylinder. There is a link in my write up to a document that tells you how.
Hey chris, having no luck so far.. have tryed a few resistor values sec light still on, no start, do you know is the red w white stripe supposed to be 12+?
did u ever find out what the red wire does, if u can please let me know.
Hello new to the channel. Just wanted to explain my issue. I had a stumbling and hesitation problem. Found out it was the head gaskets. Long story short I left my battery disconnected for 3 days while installing heads and waiting on them to be milled. After installing battery my injectors will not fire up. My secretary light will come on once as I turn the key and then turn off when I turn the key to start it it comes back on then off after I stop cranking the truck. Will this work for my 04 Silverado 4.3 please any help is appreciated. I do have a video posted showing my issue. Thx.
Great vid! I have a remote start on my 88 1999 olds... do you know the wire procedure with a remote start to do this bypass for the security system? I have keys with the raised resistor and it will not crank with either key. Thanks in advance.
Jeff, sorry I missed this. It would probably be the same but you would have to find some wiring diagrams specific for that vehicle. I am not familiar with what GM did in oldsmobile - like some Cadillac models have different stuff than what GM put in non-lux brands but some have the same as non-lux brands ie the Escalade is the same as Chevy/GMC truck/SUV platform, good luck.
Chris, No worries, I actually found a fantastic resource to fix and bypass the issue. It is a module from New Rockies. GREAT product. Works like a charm! Peace newrockies.com/passlock-bypass-2/
riz bu
1 second ago
Hi, I own a Saturn 2001 L200 I have had the security light flashing for almost two months with everything working in the vehicle including the remote key lock. One month ago I have had problems starting the car and the gas gauge and temperature gauge has shut down including the interior lights A/C, cooling fan and shifting gear, after disconnecting the battery for twenty minutes then everything turns on except the a/c and then shuts down again. It allows to remain starting, but without the gauges and lights,shifting gear and air non working. I want to try to disconnect the security passlock deferhent theft system. If so, after doing so will everything start working normally? My main concern is to get my gauges and cooling fan to work back on again.What is going on is it the BCM and can this be repaired manually?
Hey bro I got the same problem with my 2004
i have a problem with my 2000 gmc 5.7 van not starting ITs been cutting off and now it never starts again. IVe replaced everything from a-z so now some say the pu is bad but is it the same wire on my switch that needs cutting loose to disconnect the pass-lock system? what color wire do i cut and what color wire do i tie the other end into? i need help please.i ordered a computer but haven't put it on yet i am at wits end...???i need help now?
Going to have to have a little more detail to help you out on that - like what is A-Z? I don't want to list out the 26 things it could be if you've already done it...right now you're a long way from pass-lock...
Mr Chris, I'm working on a 2001 GMC Yukon. HeHere's the issue I am having. Replaced the ignition switch because the customer said that the vehicle just stopped. He replaced the fuel pump. But when you turn the key into the on position, I get no turn signals, fuel gauge level, or volt gauge. However, when I take my power probe and jump the ignition switch on a pink wire, the gauges and turn signals all work and the vehicle starts with no issues. I have checked all fuses and relays with volt meter and relay buddy tester and everything checks out. I know that it's not the security system, but it almost seems like I'm loosing power out of the new ignition switch. Could you please give me a little insite as to where my problem may be?? Thanks in advance.
Just my quick thoughts on the easy stuff first - you may have already done this, but... 1. How does the connector look at the ignition switch 2. did you meter the switch from the connector back to where you jumped the pink wire to make sure somehow the wire(s) haven't broke somewhere in between 3. So it turns to the ON position with nothing on the IPC, but does it crank 4. Check all the IGN fuses under the hood - namely the big ones that can appear good but meter bad 5. Do you have a known good ignition switch you can swap in there and check
i have a 98 bravada every video i see has the same concept but as im trying to locate my ignition i found what to be the three wires im looking for right by the ignition but there seems to be something already there looks to be factory my question is to i put the resister before or after this fuse looking device
I am not familiar with that vehicle, but if you had a picture or video of it?
Try a Google search on how to relearn the security system for your vehicle. I am not familiar with the 2007 and up.
Damn I need help on my 2001 silverado it won't start just for a second then turns off
Read the "SHOW MORE" part under the video - lots of good stuff in there to try. Download the "re-learn" procedure from there and try that also. If it is starting a few seconds and dying, it is definitely a VATS issue
I already fixed the problem I did a by pass thanks and your video help a lot
You think it be ok to guess the ohms for the resistor?i dont have a ohms reader.so i was think of just getting a resistor around 900 ohms for my 2003 express chevy 4.3 1500 van
Yes, you'll just have to relearn it
@@ChrisBowling92769 Just now i took a regular wire,no resister at all just a thin wire ran from yellow to black,did the 3 security relern waits,started right up.Before the relearns did nothing,the skinning the wires and bridging with a thin wire did the trick,now well see if it starts tomorrow.Thanks for the video
didnt cut nothing only skinned the 2 wires then bridge with a thin wire.I got a 2003 express 4.3 my black ground was middle wire on ignition it was brown,other wire yellow to any body with this color wires that needs help,brown to yellow
I have a Canadian 03' Chevy Impala and the anti-theft system keeps shutting down my car after 30 mins to 60 mins.. Then I have to wait 30 mins for it to start again... Any ideas or videos or links for my Canadian 03' Impala ( disabling the anti-theft device)
Not real sure about that. I am not familiar with any non-domestic programming of VATS, but unless Canada requires something different, my guess is there are no differences in the programming. Is it idling that long or driving down the road and shuts off? I just don't think any AHJ would require something like that in a VATS to shut down the vehicle in either case - I try and look at like what good what that do given the fact a criminal would get 30-60 minutes of driving? You can try the re-learn procedure and see if that helps. Otherwise, some other common failures that produce your symptoms are: Fuel Pump; Fuel Filter; Vapor lock; overheating; Faulty wiring; crank/cam position sensors to name a few. What kind of codes are you getting?
hey i want to know about the 2002 jaguar x type anti theft system. my car key resister is not working or broken , i am unable to start it , is there anything i can do to start my car .
Sorry. but I ve had bad luck with the ideas on youtube lasting very long with their V A T S system. I finally just put a switch between the puter and car body ground. It tricks the c into thinking its another day and always starts.
Jim could you please detail that more thanks.
Hey I have a Pontiac aztek that's in security mold it runs fine but nothing works as far as the windows or anything on the dashboard everything stopped working when it went into security mold, well bypassing help me
Wow - I don't know about that. I would not think that VATS has anything to do with gauges or windows. Generally speaking those things are independent from GM VATS. Also - If your gauges are not working, not sure how you can trust the security light. My guess is there is a problem with data or maybe power to those systems. It would be a cheap thing to try I suppose, but I would look at those circuits and start chasing out the power and data wires to see if they are good.
So I just bought a theft recovery 99 GMC Sierra 1500. The cylinder lock and cylinder housing is damaged. I found a replacement steering column with key. For me it's just cheaper to buy the whole column otherwise I need to get a cylinder lock + cylinder lock housing.
If I swap in the new column and do the 30 minute relearn procedure, will it work for me or am I just waiting my time?
Yes it will work if you have no other issues. just make sure you get everything plugged back in because the BCM has to see the new value and learn that when you go thru the process
Chris Bowling Thank you, sir.
will this work on a 1998 gmc sierra 4.3 liter
Hello Chris I have a 2004 Yukon SLT 2wd that won't start can you please help?
I have a Buick century 2004 with the security light light on the car don't start and don't crank you think I can do this procedure thanks
If the vehicle will not crank at all, then this is probably not your problem. Crank to me means the starter engaged and engine turning from the starter. If you cannot crank your motor there could be several other problems: Battery, Starter, fuse, relay, battery cable, solenoid, seized motor just to name a few
Hey Chris.. I finally got a few codes on my truck.. and hope this helps..
they are as follows.
P0117 - Engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit, low imput..
P-0480 - Cooling fan 1 control circuit malfunction.
P0526 - fan speed sensor circuit..
after a few minutes of testing the truck shut down as it always does and when you turn the key nothing happens as usual..
but the tester could not connect with my truck. it kept asking is key on? I would go through the start up for the tester then it would say. "connecting" but never could connect. it would say to check the connection..
does this help any???? Thanks Myron
M Jones It sounds like you have a problem with one of the cooling fans. I'm not totally sure on the trigger, but I suspect that a circuit malfunction and fan speed sensor circuit more than likely point to a failing fan, You could try swapping the cooling fan relays, clear the codes and see if those codes come up for cooling fan 2. Or replace the relay for cooling fan 1 with another known good relay and see what happens. Your problem is definitely cooling and you could also have some other problems, but you need to figure out what is up with that fan and we can move on from there.
I have a 2005 monte carlo and I need to bye pass the pass lock and dont know if its behind the radio or in the steering wheel I need help
Did u find out how to do this
I have a 2002 cadillac deville I need to bypass passkey III. I've been stuck in the car with my 7 year old daughter. I'm broke not being able to work. Nobody will help simply asking here
Hi
I have a 2007 suburban, the problem first started this morning. I was attempting to replace my overhead DVD player screen. when i did, i needed to move the truck in the middle of the job, so i got to start it and it starts up and then shuts off just like yours did in the video here.
Well i tried to do the 10 minute relearn and 30 minute relearn and no luck. i'd like to bypass the whole theft system, will your procedure here work with my 2007 suburban? it's the new body style like the 2007-2013.
Any help would be appreciated.
djjairo760 I would think that it should be similar. You would have to pull the it apart down there and just compare and see. My guess is they didn't change much. The cure all for most is a relearn or send the PCM off and have it removed. Below is a write up I found for 07.5-10 LMM diesel re-learn - a tad different than the '03-'07 classic. I would think it would be the same for all '07-13 GM Trucks/SUV's:
1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
then
2. Attempt to start the engine (vehicle will not start) then release the key to ON,. Do not
turn the key backwards, just release it.
3. Observe the SECURITY (padlock symbol) light. After exactly 10 minutes, it will turn
OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition and wait 5 seconds
5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The
vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the
next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.
6. Start the engine. The vehicle has not learned the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or
password. The vehicle learns the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the
next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF
before attempting to start the vehicle.
FOLLOWUP: If you have any trouble, common mistakes are not following the
procedure exactly, and low battery voltage.
Hi, thanks for the Video. I was wondering if you could help me with something. I have 06 chevy Colorado 4cyl.2.8. And I'm trying to install a remote starter. Could you please tell me which wires should I use for bypass. Thanks
Sam Shaya , I think those years use the exact same steering column if I'm not mistaken. So this should work provided you have the same color wires
I have a 2004 tahoe. do you know how many ohms it requires?
Sorry for the late response, but it does not need a specific reading but rather just something in range. I can't remember what the range is, but if you put 700-1000 in there it should work.