God is everyone on here a expert now ! Everyone has there own ways and anyone can pick holes in anyone’s work ! Stu is experience enough not to dry bond or use a line at the bottom and still get the job done and looking tidy !
I'm studying for carpentry and im working at a company. With a really nice Vila renovation just started. We started rippimg out the floors and replaxed them with 2 layers of 18mm Plywood. The people who were breaking the celing in the other room probably found asbestos... everyone sent home.
Do you normally use a regular tape to gauge in the UK? We use brick tapes over here and I find them faster to work with as you just follow the gauge size when you measure.
You should use your bolster to run down the back off the lintel to push the damp back so it sits tight...but not to hard so you split it you’ll be left with a nice crease in it stops it from pushing the bricks....also should use your boat level every brick or at least every 3 bricks!! But nice work 👍🏻👌🏻
Love the videos Stu. Would love to see you in your unit again doing some tutorials when you get a chance, one scenario in particular. How do you handle a 90 degree corner and the return is only 950mm, 4 1/4 brick. Do you cut 54mm off two bricks and maintain that bond up the wall or loose it a different way? Not too many out their that look at overcoming reverse bond or broken bonds. Keep the videos coming, brilliant mate 👍🏻
@@jamesjardine6895 I've been in job 20 years pal. Like I said.. if architect done job right it should always work. I mean it's not hard to work out is it. 75mm with a perp plus 10mm to start
Jeanluc Michaud, we do quite a lot of soldiers on site we clamp a profile or a baton across the face as they never sit right even with the smear just on the front.
Stu mortar on the lintel is a no go....if i would do that,they would met me demolish my brickwork.use small wigs instead thats the way.and make a layer stick so u can write it on the lintel.grtz
Shouldn’t give them the dignity of getting a reaction Stu lad. They’re not worth your time. There’s always self professed experts in every walk of life that can tell you what you’re not doing right but I’ve said it before you’re not someone that’s stuck in the sands of the past unable to move forward. Just keep moving positively forward even if you make mistakes let the arm chair experts stay stuck in their own egotistical sinking sand. They’ll disappear into insignificance as fast as they appeared.
One question How long you can work with the Mort before it became hart? Sorry for my English And the Mort look so creamy is this a special just for briks
Mortor is good for about and hour or so, and most brickies will have used each mix well before that time anyway. By adding a platiciser to the mix it becomes more creamy and pliable to work with. A good quality sand helps aswell.
No weep holes then?.and if that block works going to be rendered why you not let it over sail 10/20 mill.?so the render finishes flush with the bricks i done loads of these soldier courses in rendered block work these need weep holes on top of the d.p.c. tray .or do you drill them out afterwards? keep trying great work otherwise. I'm city guilds qualified with 35 +years bricklaying.i worked for every animal around london and reading.i love watching these bricklaying videos.
Can’t you just measure out a mark on the front edge where every brick should be, wouldn’t that take the guess work out and then it’s spot on at the end.
Cut a piece of timber the size of the opening and pencil mark your gauge on the timber,easy to check your gauge or you could even mark your 4 foot level ( good tip for apprentices) Nice work 👍🏻
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With your annotations and no music I was in ducking heaven, loving the content.
Well done Stu! Hell yes! Is it weird that watching you lay brick brings joy to my heart??? Lol
Brilliant video thanks and absolutely loved your level of honesty and sarcasm in the comments 😂
Looks great. I love your attention to detail. You always go the extra mile. It does make a difference !!
Little captions are a great addition. Brilliant vids.Surprised your level withstood that beating at the end 🤣
Thank you , Stu ,
like the commentary , but its a bit quick, had to keep stopping it and sometime had to rewind , but apart from that well good .
God is everyone on here a expert now !
Everyone has there own ways and anyone can pick holes in anyone’s work !
Stu is experience enough not to dry bond or use a line at the bottom and still get the job done and looking tidy !
I used a profile to stop them falling in and if you set it up with the gage marks should work fine
Nice work 👌
Giving me the inspiration to learn a little bit once I start my extension.
🙀
I'm studying for carpentry and im working at a company. With a really nice Vila renovation just started. We started rippimg out the floors and replaxed them with 2 layers of 18mm Plywood.
The people who were breaking the celing in the other room probably found asbestos... everyone sent home.
Great job Stu. I'm less capable and line all mine up beforehand.
Good stuff as usual Stu, keep them coming. 👍
🙀
The proper way to do it 👌not like other channels useing profiles and timber to keep them up good job 👏
🙀
Hi hope you all are doing ok you and your people nice clean and smart work stay super safe godbless you all Carl in london
Another great demonstration video. Job`s a good `un.
It’s like watching a surgeon only with a trowel 👌
can you use any bricks to lay soldiers or is it better to use engineering bricks?
Do you normally use a regular tape to gauge in the UK? We use brick tapes over here and I find them faster to work with as you just follow the gauge size when you measure.
Why is it faster if he know his brick gauge buy a normal tape measure anyway 1200 works bricks plus 10 mm purp he has to tighten up 10mm
Love your channel
You should use your bolster to run down the back off the lintel to push the damp back so it sits tight...but not to hard so you split it you’ll be left with a nice crease in it stops it from pushing the bricks....also should use your boat level every brick or at least every 3 bricks!! But nice work 👍🏻👌🏻
If you use a torpedo pevel on your soldiers your a rookie.
Patrick Miller not really
Patrick Miller you dosser
Miles Willcox 😂😂😂
@@mileswillcox1175 lay your soldier fast enough, to adjust it on the fly with a long level running across the face of the row of bricks
Love the videos Stu.
Would love to see you in your unit again doing some tutorials when you get a chance, one scenario in particular. How do you handle a 90 degree corner and the return is only 950mm, 4 1/4 brick. Do you cut 54mm off two bricks and maintain that bond up the wall or loose it a different way?
Not too many out their that look at overcoming reverse bond or broken bonds.
Keep the videos coming, brilliant mate 👍🏻
Wouldn’t that work 1/2 bat and 3/4 then 3/4 on top
Is the brick strong in this way? I was thinking of laying a brick road in soldier like this. Will it be better?
You almost destroyed the building hitting the level that hard 🤣
Not supposed to tap the level but i applaud 👏🏾u still because that part was difficult back in college
how many brickies do you know who dont tap the level ? answer non
Course you can tap the level just use the trowel handle rather than sharp end
AcousticNRG everyone lol stabila loves a good tap
@@kierenboimufc5940 ha ha ha. I get those really thick heavy ones like a piece of steel. Can twat those with lump hammer
Dale Steel what you use the R bar type ?
Stu. I know you are experienced. And can tell by eye. But plumb every 3 soldier with a boat level 🤔
I like the commentary
*Stu ..what if the last brick was too big to fit in ...how would you have resolved this ?* 😐
Shimmy the joints thinner a couple bricks down to open the space
Hi, Stu. 5:20 is it the real-time you did to lay those brick soldiers?
Around that maybe 8 mins
@@Stucrompton1 Well done!!! if it was me I do it in 8 hours and not perfect like yours.
You see a lot of perpends instead of weep vents - especially on flats. I'm not sure they're much better...
멋져요~~^^
I’m thinking of going to do a course at college, but I feel like this will be too confusing for me, is it really as confusing as a think?!
callums army major every one starts from some were
If architect done job right it should always work bricks
u brand new?they have never worked and never will
James Jardine they love a 3/4 don’t they lol
@@jamesjardine6895 I've been in job 20 years pal. Like I said.. if architect done job right it should always work. I mean it's not hard to work out is it. 75mm with a perp plus 10mm to start
@@DaleSteel get another 15 years in I might be interested in your opinion don't mean to be rude
British build big jail in India in Chennai all the Architec. works and doom done only using bricks, it was build by Indian labours
Nice 👍
I want to know how KC got on with the canopy.. update video please.... I’m building one.
wil get an update when its done mate
make up a gauge rod take one minute ,and put a line just above the lintol and then it wont look like a drama
Old boys joints are massive same size brick ?top course is huge 20m
What's with the empty joints on the blockwork
If water gets behind the brickwork it can escape their rather than build up behind head and cause damage inside the house 🧱
I'd take a guess that the block is to be removed at a later date. Possibly for a steel beam???
Good man🕌
Nice one stu! Some of the comments 🤦♂️
Do you not find they tip forward to the line ? Also we normally check each brick with a boat level
They don't tip forward because he layed mortar on the front of the lintel only.
Yeah I've had them tip because the lintels are not flat. They usually have a stupid angle on the front that causes them to tip.
Jeanluc Michaud, we do quite a lot of soldiers on site we clamp a profile or a baton across the face as they never sit right even with the smear just on the front.
Stu mortar on the lintel is a no go....if i would do that,they would met me demolish my brickwork.use small wigs instead thats the way.and make a layer stick so u can write it on the lintel.grtz
Ps always use 2 wires one on top.and one below
In English ?
No dutch
Mortar on the lintel is fine. The lintel is galvanized, there's a membrane and weepholes.
@@jeanjeanmich Yes the lintel is galvanised but he scored into it with his knife when cutting the cavity tray. Really bad practice.
На это можно смотреть вечно
Одлична настава.
Shouldn’t give them the dignity of getting a reaction Stu lad. They’re not worth your time. There’s always self professed experts in every walk of life that can tell you what you’re not doing right but I’ve said it before you’re not someone that’s stuck in the sands of the past unable to move forward. Just keep moving positively forward even if you make mistakes let the arm chair experts stay stuck in their own egotistical sinking sand. They’ll disappear into insignificance as fast as they appeared.
Thats the one ste mate
I can't decide if you remind me of Moses or Ghandi with your beautiful speech it's only brickwork get a life lighten up
One question
How long you can work with the Mort before it became hart?
Sorry for my English
And the Mort look so creamy is this a special just for briks
Mortor is good for about and hour or so, and most brickies will have used each mix well before that time anyway. By adding a platiciser to the mix it becomes more creamy and pliable to work with. A good quality sand helps aswell.
@@daverogers6443 thanks o lot ☺️☺️☺️
No weep holes then?.and if that block works going to be rendered why you not let it over sail 10/20 mill.?so the render finishes flush with the bricks i done loads of these soldier courses in rendered block work these need weep holes on top of the d.p.c. tray .or do you drill them out afterwards? keep trying great work otherwise. I'm city guilds qualified with 35 +years bricklaying.i worked for every animal around london and reading.i love watching these bricklaying videos.
That's a new one on me, weephole police.
Allways use a boat level when i do them plus latts under lintel stop them tipping
Can’t you just measure out a mark on the front edge where every brick should be, wouldn’t that take the guess work out and then it’s spot on at the end.
If you mark the lintel you won't see anything as soon as you lay your mortar. You could mark the line but I find it pointless.
Or put your mortar on and rough Mark it on the mortar
Cut a piece of timber the size of the opening and pencil mark your gauge on the timber,easy to check your gauge or you could even mark your 4 foot level ( good tip for apprentices)
Nice work 👍🏻
great video like the commentary bit fast but stopped it .aren't you cold with them shorts on : )
Hello
feel like an American 👌😂 I know exactly what you mean
If you put some mud on those brick you wouldn’t have to point them up
👍👍👍👍👍
🏥🏥🏥🏦🏨🏨🏨
Sarcastic much?
Some of your text needs to stay on longer to be read
🌄🕋🌄
Az
amateur 😂