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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
- This is a detailed repair video that shows how to diagnose and replace a clutch slave cylinder, also known as a clutch secondary cylinder.
The repair is on a 1985 Volkswagen Vanagon (T3) with 1.9L Wasserboxer engine and 4 speed manual transmission.
Symptoms: Clutch pedal was stuck ( hard / firm ) and would not move down. Fluid was not leaking.
Diagnosis: Piston in the clutch slave cylinder had seized.
Solution: Replace Secondary / Slave Cylinder and bleed the air out of the line.
Result: Clutch function restored. Success.
00:00 Intro
00:25 Firm Pedal
00:42 Recommendation
00:50 Testing For Movement
01:36 Ruling Out The Clutch Master Cylinder
02:04 Begin Repair Procedure
02:22 Clutch Slave Cylinder Location
02:42 Accessing The Difficult Bolt & Nut
03:05 View Of Clutch Slave Cylinder From Underneath
03:28 Loosening The Hydraulic Line
03:55 Removing Front Bolt
04:56 Removing Back Bolt
06:07 Spring Tension Clue
07:08 Removing The Hydraulic Line
07:55 Pulling The Cylinder Off
08:13 Preparing For Install
09:19 The Tape Trick
10:17 Point Port Toward The Front
12:24 Tightening Bolts From Top
12:31 Sharp Edge, Ouch!
12:55 Back To Tightening The Bolts
14:24 Oops, Forgot The Bracket
15:36 Installing The Hydraulic Line
16:31 Bleeding The Hydraulic Line
18:04 The Clutch Is Working
18:26 Summary
18:46 Outro - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thank you! Getting ready to tackle this on mine
Nice job! I like how you didn't try to hide the fact that you forgot to attach the bracket when putting the slave back on. That sort of thing happens every time I have to do a repair! I also like your tape-the-bolt-bottom hack.
Hi Alec. Yes, just trying to keep it real with forgetting the bracket. Thanks so much for the comment! Hope all your repairs go smoothly!
Very very nice, good explanation……Thanks
Thank you, @pierreloiselle4160!
Thx. Nice video. I have done this replacement a few times. Last time round, I had my slave cylinder bored and sleeved with stainless steel to prevent rust build-up and leaking as a result. Brake fluid's hygroscopic properties cauces moisture to accumulate in the brake circuit which leads to premature failure.
The boring snd SS sleeve sounds like a pro move! Thanks for the tip!
I've got a T3 synchro from 1985. I have a leak in the back clutch cylinder. I will do the same as you tomorrow ! Fingers crossed 🤞. Cheers from Toulouse, France !
Hi Matt, As long as the bolts don’t give you trouble, it shouldn’t be too difficult. Fingers crossed.🤞🏻
excellent job making this !
Thank you Dan!
thanks mate, my job tomorrow and put in a brace or support too. sloppy peddle action, crunching gear change. thanks for your feed it looks a bit easier now. stay well mate
Hi Raymond. Hope you get your clutch peddle and gear crunch problems sorted out. Bleeding the line is a good place to start even if the cylinders aren’t leaking. One thing I think I forgot to mention in the video is to make sure the fluid level in the reservoir doesn’t reach the bottom during bleeding. If it does, air can get sucked in the line and you will have to start the process all over again. Best of luck to you with your repair and thank you for commenting!
Great overview of this process. Thanks!
Thanks @knoptop! 😊
Amazing video! Thanks
Thanks Jo! 😊
NIcely done, I'm about to do the same soon. 👍
Thank you Italjohn! 👍🏻
great video! i have to bleed my clutch and this is the best vid ive seen that shows how to do it! can I ask a noob question though, what size pipe is used to attach to the bleed nipple? never done anything like this before so am always learning!
Thank you for your comment! The hose I had came with a brake bleed catch container, by Motive Products, but all you really need is a section of hose and a plastic bottle. I looked up the hose inner diameter for the Motive bleeder bottle and it's 3/16"id. The hose is silicone and very stretchy. Vinyl hose like aquarium air hose or the hose by the foot at hardware stores will work. I went out and measured the old bleed valve. (Might be different size on yours.) The widest part of the flare of the bleeder was 7mm or just a tiny bit bigger than 1/4". If you can find a hose from 3/16"-1/4" inner diameter it will probably work for a similar sized valve. A snug fit is best.
Best of luck to you with all your repairs!
PS. I just looked up the bottle I use.
Motive Products - 1810 Brake Fluid Bottle. $13.90 on Amazon Prime
I'm not sponsored just sharing info. :)
@@fiveable thanks so much for the detailed reply, much appreciated! gonna try and tackle this over the weekend!
You are very welcome. I subscribed to your channel. Look forward to watching your videos!
Getting ready to give it a go, what size tube is needed for the hydraulic line to block it from leaking out during the repair? I'd like to get mine ahead of time and be ready. Thx!
Hi @512dude. I went out in my garage and found the red hose and tried to measure it with calipers. I think it is something like 1/2” Outer Diameter with 3/8” Inner Diameter. Inner diameter is roughly 9mm. When I did the repair, I just grabbed a hose that was available in my collection of junk and tools. To be specific the hose came from a “Multi Use Transfer Pump” kit (Sku# 63591) I got at Harbor Freight (currently $7.49). I just cut an inch or two off the hose and shoved a bolt in it.
did all of it now the hydraulic line doesnt want to go back in, I pullet out the little plastic cap but still nothing
Not sure I understand what the problem is. Are you saying the hydraulic line will not thread into the new part?
My clutch pedal is now low and floppy after ivevreplaced the cltch slave cylinder and maste cylinder. Ive bled all the brakes and the slave cylinder but now pedal is sat low down. Can you advise what the issue is and how to fix it thanks craig
Bleed it again
Hi Craig, @DoubleOSeven007 is right. Bleed it again. Sounds like air is still in the line. It doesn’t take much to cause a problem. You might try loosening the clutch slave bleed valve and pushing the slave cylinder piston all the way in before bleeding again. This might help if there is air trapped in the piston chamber.
@@fiveable thanks i will give it a go
I live in my 1986 vw t25 n my clutch has popped
That’s a bummer, MountainMan. Sorry to hear you are stuck.
What if the clutch pedal seems to work, but it won’t go into gear….feels like the shifter is hitting a wall?
Probably need to check the linkage from front to back. There are some plastic pieces that wear out and make gear selection difficult.
@@fiveable 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 thank you for the Great Content!!!!🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻