I don't rely on published travel numbers....remove the springs and let the front end settle on the stops. Mark it there and you then KNOW where the bottom is. While it's down as far as it can go is a great time to check fender/front wheel clearance to the radiator too (if you have one) . In the SV world it's been seen that people lower the triples for quicker handling then get contact against the rad out on the road....not good.
Not sure that's a correct approach, besides the springs there are some times spacers, this all affects where the 'system' will bottom out. Daves approach here, he is marking the bottom out point being 10mm lower than the lower triple. At this point if he can only go that 10mm lower on the clamp. Another thing that will affect you reaching this bottom out point, is your compression dampening. Using the hydraulics to soak up some of the energy will slow down the time it takes for that fork to bottom out. SV owners who are bottoming out just plain aren't taking the whole picture into account. Driving aggression, spring rate, preload and comp. dampening all effect one reaching that BO point. ( and as you say other hard parts). Imho.
Nice to see Bandit! Would like to see videos of full settings, modifications (shocks and valves for fork) and services what you can/recommend to do with Bandit suspension.
I just went through this with my FZ6 with older R6 forks. In my case, I used the built in center stand and shifted the weight back to get the front off the ground and I measured 120mm up from the dust seal and marked it with a sharpie like you did. I now know that I'm using all of my travel and I should add some preload.
Very useful video as usual! Thanks, Dave! Regarding measuring the length at full extension: do you need to take into consideration the top out springs?
Great videos mate! I've just lowered the front of my Triumph Thunderbird 900 with 10mm. Before the lowering, the forks were 177mm when fully extended, wheel hanging in the air. Published fork travel for my bike is stated to 150mm, this should mean I could drop 27mm maximum (not that I want that)? So I'm about 17mm safe right now, right? Of course I have to check that the fender is not hitting the radiator at bottom out also.
hello sir I am opie from Indonesia and I'm sorry if my English is not good I have a suspension that is 113mm long from bottom to triple clamp. I measured the maximum travel at about 75 mm so I got a triple clamp safe distance to the bottom of 38 mm So I want to ask you how I can get a maximum travel of 93 mm and 10 mm or 20 mm of safety distance from the triple clamp to the bottom but I hope my suspension remains soft. thank you
Hi dave the end bike he had 65mm travel and you want give him 110mm.. Can you correct me as a learner. Would that basically the same as making it softer with in the travel range or vise versa 65 to 55mm be stiffer. 😊.. Thanks 😊
What do you adjust on the telescopic forks to stop them from bottoming out? Have them on my 2002 gsxr 600 and I’m considering turning it to a track bike and unsure if i need stiffer springs or go for the upside down forks from the 2002 750
Spring rate, oil level and compression settings all help dial in the forks for travel used. Changing springs on telescopic forks can be done on the bike - another huge value add :) Stay with the forks you have, they will work fine.
I have a 2000 cbr600 fy (same as f4 or f4i) but I cant find how much travel the forks have online anywhere. I'm going to have to do this the had way and remove them arent I 😔
Hey Mike! I have a 2015 Yamaha FZ-07 that has a stock front fork travel total of 130mm. As it now sits, the triple cast is sitting at 135mm or so, barely clearing the total travel. After doing your mod (15W Bel-Ray and lowered triple by 8mm), I’m now using 110mm (where my zip tie sits after a few days of riding). So I’m using 84.6% of my available travel. Is that set up nicely?
Dave, marzocchi magnum as fitted to mz baghira i have just changed fork oil and measure oil as 580ml and 120mm oil level with spring and spacers out and damping rod in up position, exercised the damper rod to bleed air, and re assembled, they are long travel forks, should i be able to fully hit bottom by pressing on fork out of the triple clamps as they dont move much but ride fine as in the bike.... thanks...
Once the forks are serviced and rebuilt that are long travel, it is very hard to get the forks to move as we simply do not have the leverage. You would need to be 7 feet tall....... As they ride well on the bike - that is all that matters!
@@catalystreactionsbw ok thanks... i thought maybe it would be hard to compress them in the same way as you compress normal forks yes the bike seems to ride much better since i changed the oil it was 8 yyears old and 15,000 miles so well overdue thanks for the quick reply love watching your channel keep up the great work thanks again...
Learn something all the time from each of your vids !
Keep then coming
Thanks for watching and wanting to learn more!
Great introductory video, shows there's lots to consider with forks.
Glad you think so!
You know when Dave gets to heaven an angel is going to measure his spine for 'sag'.
That wont be anytime soon, he has too much yet to do here !!
Way too many lives to save yet - a lot of work ahead of me!
I honestly never thought about it the way ! Obviously very important especially for safety when you telescopic forks ✅
Nice visor on that black Suzuki
I don't rely on published travel numbers....remove the springs and let the front end settle on the stops. Mark it there and you then KNOW where the bottom is. While it's down as far as it can go is a great time to check fender/front wheel clearance to the radiator too (if you have one) . In the SV world it's been seen that people lower the triples for quicker handling then get contact against the rad out on the road....not good.
Not sure that's a correct approach, besides the springs there are some times spacers, this all affects where the 'system' will bottom out. Daves approach here, he is marking the bottom out point being 10mm lower than the lower triple. At this point if he can only go that 10mm lower on the clamp. Another thing that will affect you reaching this bottom out point, is your compression dampening. Using the hydraulics to soak up some of the energy will slow down the time it takes for that fork to bottom out. SV owners who are bottoming out just plain aren't taking the whole picture into account. Driving aggression, spring rate, preload and comp. dampening all effect one reaching that BO point. ( and as you say other hard parts). Imho.
Nice to see Bandit! Would like to see videos of full settings, modifications (shocks and valves for fork) and services what you can/recommend to do with Bandit suspension.
All you need is at Holeshot Performance.
U are God of forks :D Thanks
I just went through this with my FZ6 with older R6 forks. In my case, I used the built in center stand and shifted the weight back to get the front off the ground and I measured 120mm up from the dust seal and marked it with a sharpie like you did. I now know that I'm using all of my travel and I should add some preload.
If yo are using all the travel, add preload and if you have it, compression damping.
amazing video bro
Glad you liked it
We finally get to see Dave's personal motorcycle. I'm talking about the bandit.
Very useful video as usual! Thanks, Dave!
Regarding measuring the length at full extension: do you need to take into consideration the top out springs?
Great videos mate! I've just lowered the front of my Triumph Thunderbird 900 with 10mm. Before the lowering, the forks were 177mm when fully extended, wheel hanging in the air. Published fork travel for my bike is stated to 150mm, this should mean I could drop 27mm maximum (not that I want that)? So I'm about 17mm safe right now, right? Of course I have to check that the fender is not hitting the radiator at bottom out also.
Dave can't even shop for milk and bread without someone stopping him for suspension advice. Poor Dave....
That is actually very true.
hello sir
I am opie from Indonesia and I'm sorry if my English is not good
I have a suspension that is 113mm long from bottom to triple clamp. I measured the maximum travel at about 75 mm so I got a triple clamp safe distance to the bottom of 38 mm
So I want to ask you how I can get a maximum travel of 93 mm and 10 mm or 20 mm of safety distance from the triple clamp to the bottom but I hope my suspension remains soft.
thank you
Hi dave the end bike he had 65mm travel and you want give him 110mm.. Can you correct me as a learner. Would that basically the same as making it softer with in the travel range or vise versa 65 to 55mm be stiffer. 😊.. Thanks 😊
Yes correct. Better to be at 80-90mm travel used.
What do you adjust on the telescopic forks to stop them from bottoming out? Have them on my 2002 gsxr 600 and I’m considering turning it to a track bike and unsure if i need stiffer springs or go for the upside down forks from the 2002 750
Spring rate, oil level and compression settings all help dial in the forks for travel used. Changing springs on telescopic forks can be done on the bike - another huge value add :) Stay with the forks you have, they will work fine.
I have a 2000 cbr600 fy (same as f4 or f4i) but I cant find how much travel the forks have online anywhere. I'm going to have to do this the had way and remove them arent I 😔
120mm/4.7 inches
@@catalystreactionsbw I'm making a shrine to you 🙏👊
Hey Mike! I have a 2015 Yamaha FZ-07 that has a stock front fork travel total of 130mm. As it now sits, the triple cast is sitting at 135mm or so, barely clearing the total travel. After doing your mod (15W Bel-Ray and lowered triple by 8mm), I’m now using 110mm (where my zip tie sits after a few days of riding). So I’m using 84.6% of my available travel. Is that set up nicely?
Absolutely! Now you have a reserve for a crisis where you need more brakes.
Dave, marzocchi magnum as fitted to mz baghira i have just changed fork oil and measure oil as 580ml and 120mm oil level with spring and spacers out and damping rod in up position, exercised the damper rod to bleed air, and re assembled, they are long travel forks, should i be able to fully hit bottom by pressing on fork out of the triple clamps as they dont move much but ride fine as in the bike.... thanks...
Once the forks are serviced and rebuilt that are long travel, it is very hard to get the forks to move as we simply do not have the leverage. You would need to be 7 feet tall....... As they ride well on the bike - that is all that matters!
@@catalystreactionsbw ok thanks... i thought maybe it would be hard to compress them in the same way as you compress normal forks yes the bike seems to ride much better since i changed the oil it was 8 yyears old and 15,000 miles so well overdue thanks for the quick reply love watching your channel keep up the great work thanks again...
Does dave moss travel or does he only do adjustment in the California?
I travel all over the world giving classes and doing set up events.
@@catalystreactionsbw Would you consider coming to Portugal, to the Estoril Race track?
any good method to do this when you have fork gaitors fited ?
Put the cable tie on. Ride and lift the bottom of the gator off and draw it up to the bottom of the lower triple clamp to check travel used.
would it be possible for you to do stuff specific for cruisers? i have a 2000 kawasaki vulcan vn1500 fi nomad and i weigh about 120kg
In regards to fork travel, fork oil?
@@catalystreactionsbw to start with yer...mainly in general